How to lay a brick in a drain hole. Cesspool of brick: how to do it right. Stage #5 - waterproofing and topcoating

In urban conditions, no one thinks about arranging sewers or cesspools - this is a problem for utilities. But for residents of dacha cooperatives or suburban villages, the problem of disposal of liquid and solid waste is very acute. In order to solve it with maximum benefit, you need to know what methods of equipping a cesspool with your own hands generally exist.

Cesspool for a toilet in the country

most practical and economical way to make a cesspool for a toilet has always been considered digging the earth to the required depth. Some summer residents even now equip their comfort in this way - they dig a hole, lay it out with a brick or cinder block, install boards as an upper shield. In the same way, the problem of providing comfort is solved - as they say, "cheap and cheerful." But this method will be very problematic as a result:

firstly, such a cesspool is suitable only for those who come to a country house no more than a couple of times a week;
Secondly, maximum amount consumable water with such a pit should be 1 cubic meter per day;
thirdly, there may be problems with sanitary services.

Owners of the old car tires can greatly facilitate their own work - it will not be necessary to line the pit with brick / cinder block, cement and strengthen the walls. You just need to put the used ones into the dug hole. car tires, not forgetting to fasten them together with bolts or large metal brackets.

From above, a cesspool made of old tires should be covered with soil (around the entire circumference), and a hatch with a vent for ventilation and the possibility of pumping out is placed on the hole.

Types of cesspools and their device

There are two types of cesspools - absorbing and sealed. In the first case, a pit will be equipped in which the accumulating liquid is not pumped out, but sucked into the ground. Sealed cesspools are septic tanks that need to be pumped out with special equipment from time to time.

How to make an absorbent cesspool

It is this type of device in question that is most often chosen by summer residents and residents of suburban villages - it is easy to do, and there is no need to involve specialists in the work. The stages of arranging a cesspool are very simple:

If there is free space on suburban area, then you can make a cesspool with overflow - this will make it much less likely to involve special equipment for pumping out accumulated Wastewater. And if the soil on the site is sandy or stone-sandy, then the pumping problem may not arise at all for many years, even with the maximum use of the cesspool.

It is easier to make a cesspool from rings (concrete). To do this, follow the following step-by-step process:

A pit is being dug (according to the principle of a mine) with the calculation: the width is 80 cm larger than the diameter concrete rings.
At the bottom of the mine well, you need to do concrete screed- strictly along the perimeter, leaving free space inside the supposed location of the rings.
The lower ring must be prepared: holes are made around the entire circumference every 10 cm - they will be needed to ensure that fluid flows out when there is a large accumulation of them in the pit.
At the bottom, in the middle space of the supposed location of the concrete rings, you need to pour a “pillow” - it can be made of crushed stone and sand, broken brick, and the height of the "cushion" should not exceed 1 meter. Before backfilling, waterproofing must be carried out - this will prevent penetration into the cesspool from the rings ground water.

Only after the above preparatory work it is possible to lower concrete rings into the mine well. Space remains around them - it is covered with earth and compacted tightly. According to the rules, it is necessary to lay a concrete slab or a concrete cover on top with the possibility of opening, but in reality everything ends with the imposition of a plastic hatch.

After installing concrete rings, it is necessary to ensure the flow of liquid waste into an equipped cesspool. To do this, they dig a ditch leading from the house to a pit, at least 2 meters deep. A sewer pipe is laid in it - it can be cast iron, but it is better to use modern materials: plastic sewer pipes will last much longer, will not suffer from too much low temperatures and endure even the strongest mechanical impact from the side.

Pay attention to important points:

There should be three concrete rings in the cesspool.
Before laying the rings in the prepared pit, you need to wait until it is completely dry. concrete pouring bottom - at least 7 days.
In order for liquid waste to better flow into the finished pit, the sewer pipe must be installed with a slight slope.
The point of connection of the pipe to the pit should be below the freezing level of the soil.

How to arrange an airtight cesspool

Many people think that a sealed cesspool is an extra problem in the form of more complex process arrangement and the need to regularly pump out accumulated liquid waste. But if the site is located in a region with high groundwater, then such a design is the only option for arranging sewage.

What you need to consider when working with a cesspool of an airtight type:

The walls of the pit must be laid out with bricks without leaving gaps, as is the case with an absorbent structure.
It is desirable to plaster the walls lined with bricks with cement mortar.
The bottom of the cesspool must be cemented, and before that, waterproofing "procedures" must be carried out. For sealing, you can use liquid glass.
The lower concrete platform needs to be reinforced - you will need to lay a special concrete mesh on the bottom so that it does not “drown” in the solution, it is installed on pegs.
You can completely seal the cesspool with bitumen or cement mortar.
When laying bricks or sealing the pit with bitumen, a hole must be made for installing / connecting a sewer pipe.

It should be noted that the arrangement of a cesspool in a private house is not a quick matter. At a minimum, you will need to wait for the concrete pad to dry completely. But the absorbing structure is made much faster, because when sealing, it will also be necessary to wait for the mortar to solidify for laying bricks.

If you plan to make a cesspool of concrete rings, then you can take advantage of special offers on the market - manufacturers offer to purchase a "Lego constructor" - concrete rings, the bottom and cover of the pit. In this case, the time of work is significantly reduced - there is no need to independently pour the concrete pad at the bottom of the pit and make a cover.

Homemade septic tanks

A septic tank or septic tank is a container consisting of a single hermetic body (usually plastic), divided into several sections (for example, as in the figure - A, B, C), an intersection separator, a sewage supply pipe and a cleaned pipe.

Such septic tanks are complex cesspools, but they can not only serve as a vessel for collecting wastewater, but also process dirty liquid into fertilizer for the garden / vegetable garden. Homemade septic tanks- This is a design of 2 or 3 tanks. In the first one, only rough cleaning wastewater from large debris, but bacteria will work in the second or third - they process polluted water into fertilizer.

Build such complex structure you can do it yourself, but this will require considerable financial investments. The essence of the work on the arrangement of the cesspool-septic tank:

It is necessary to buy two or three containers made of special plastic - they must be sealed with outlet holes to the outside.
Between these tanks you will need to install overflow pipes - they must also be available. Moreover, they will need to be installed under a slope.
In the first tank of the septic tank there will be a small filter - they are sold in stores and have a special marking “for country septic tank". This filter will be located at the outlet of the pipe leading to the second container.
In the second compartment of a complex cesspool, bacteria will live that process waste and turn dirty water practically clean - at least it can be used for watering the garden and the garden, washing the car.
The third compartment is installed at will - it is needed to collect already purified water, but even without it the septic tank will be fully operational. The only clarification: in this case, a drain valve will need to be installed in the second tank - it will be necessary to extract purified water somehow!

Experts say that the most practical thing is to invite professionals to equip the cesspool. But it can be done with my own hands which will save significant financial resources. If there is no construction / engineering education, and experience in conducting any construction works minimal or non-existent, it is better not to take risks with self-installation septic tank - specialists will do it with a guarantee of quality.

Cesspool brick is great way arrangement of the sewerage system in a private house. It is mounted quite simply, the work can be done by hand, even without special skills and experience.

A brick drain pit is designed to collect and process wastewater coming from sewer system. It can have a bottom, representing a sealed structure, or it can be built on a thick layer of drainage through which water will seep into the soil.

Brick cesspool

The location and size of the cesspool

Before proceeding to installation work, the location of the pit and its volume should be determined.

As for the location, the SNiP states that the drain pit should be located no closer:

Location of the cesspool according to SNIP

5 meters to residential buildings;
1 meter to outbuildings;
30 meters to a well or spring;
3 meters to the highway.

Now you can begin to determine the volume of the pit.

To do this, multiply the number of people living in the house by 150 liters. This is the average amount of water consumed by one person, you should not take less.

If available in the house washing machine, other equipment that consumes water, then 170-200 liters per person should be taken as the basis for calculations.

The resulting amount must be multiplied by the number of days after which the wastewater will be pumped out by the sewage machine.

The average is 15 days. As a result, we get 7650 liters for a family of three or 7.65 m 3.

If there is a cesspool made of bricks without a bottom, part of the drains in the form of water will go into the ground, passing drainage layer from rubble.

Accordingly, here the volume of the pit can be reduced, taking as a basis for the calculation not 15, but 7 days.

Cesspool made of brick without a bottom

What materials and tools are needed for work

When a do-it-yourself brick drain pit is being equipped, you will need to prepare all the tools and materials necessary for work.

As for the tools, you will need:

bayonet and shovel for digging a pit, if this is done manually;
two sets of pegs and ropes for arranging fences;
3 buckets in order to remove the earth from the pit;
stairs;
tape measure and building level;
Master OK.

Of the materials, the first step is to purchase a brick, determining the most suitable type of it and choosing which brick is best for the drain pit.

Most often, experts recommend using red ceramic bricks, because it differs increased strength and enviable indicators of durability. His standard sizes 25*12*6.5cm. The cost on the market is 7-15 rubles per 1 piece.

Is it possible to make a drain pit from silicate brick? Yes, you can. Let there be a cesspool of white brick, its service life will also be quite long. The degree of strength starts with M100. The price is the same as ceramic, in the region of 9-12 rubles per brick.

With the question of which brick to choose for the cesspool, we figured it out. But how many ceramic brick required for the construction of a drain pit?

Let's count:

Square outer surface pit walls: (2.6 + 2.6 + 2.2 + 2.2) * 2 = 19.2 sq.m.
The dimensions of the red brick are 25*12*6.5. We spread them around the perimeter, these are ~ 38.5 bricks (without a seam), with a seam of 1 cm ~ 37 bricks. Next, we go in height (in the example 2 meters): 27 rows come out. Total: 27*37=999 Cypriots. Also take into account the percentage of "battle" ~ 10% (if you unload from the car). Cement mortar: 0.264 m3 per 1 m3 of masonry.

Total: for a pit measuring 2.6 * 2.2 * 2, you will need ~ 1000 bricks and 3-4 bags of cement.

In addition, you will need cement, sand, crushed stone, roofing material, reinforcement.

These materials are needed to equip the bottom, if it should be a drainage layer, as well as to seal the seams, fasten the bricks together.

If you need a sealed pit, you can equip the bottom with a ready-made concrete slab so as not to fill it with cement, wasting extra time.

Cesspool bottom concrete slab

The sequence of work on the construction of a brick drain pit

Here we will look at how to lay out a brick drain pit quickly and efficiently.

You will need to do the following:

As for the last point, it is worth considering in more detail to anyone who is interested in how to lay a cesspool out of bricks.

In the role of overlap, it is better to use a finished reinforced concrete slab with a hole for the hatch. So the work will be simpler and more efficient.

But, it is possible to build a ceiling from boards, but then it will need to be strengthened.

That is why it is better to give preference to the first option. The diameter of the hole for the hatch should be approximately 70 cm.

The overlap itself should be covered with a layer of roofing material to ensure waterproofing, covered with soil from above.

Reinforced concrete slab with a hole for the hatch

You can do otherwise: make a formwork, fill it with a layer of concrete. After it dries, remove the formwork, and overlay the walls of the structure with bricks. Next, it remains to process the overlap with bitumen.

Installing the hatch will be an order of magnitude easier, because you will be working with a ready-made design.

The only thing that needs to be checked is the quality of the sealing of the seams.

Upon completion of technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, production building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and the act of testing the systems internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.

A visual check should be accompanied by inclusion in the act of testing internal sewerage systems and drains according to SNIP, which is currently submitted current regulations applications of the "D" series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", a new updated working version of SNiP 3.05.01-85 has recently been applied.

High quality and reliable drainage system Galeco, made of laminated steel, is the key to the success and prosperity of the building, which involves the operation of a drainage system. According to general design, the Galeko drain has one characteristic. A feature is the presence of gutters, the edges of which are optimally concave inward, thus during the passage of heavy rainfall, water will not splash and overflow over the edges. The modern Galeco gutter is innovative development, which is able to withstand any mechanical damage and resists the negative effects of ultraviolet rays.

Roof snow retainers are durable multifunction devices, holding accumulated masses of snow to improve the thermal insulation of the roof and prevent sudden, unsafe snow from sloping roofs. Everyone knows the destructive power of mountain avalanches. Depending on the weather conditions, there is a constant change physical properties snow masses. Almost weightless snow that has fallen and accumulated on the roof, in the process of cyclic temperature changes, forms a layer of complex structure and impressive mass, resembling in miniature a layer ready to fall off mountain peaks avalanche. Underestimation of the potential danger threatens with material costs, as well as a threat to the health and life of people in the danger zone.

Borge snow guards are high-tech products of the world-famous Swedish company, whose production is deployed in Russia. Being important element safety systems for pitched roofs (SBK), BORGE snow guards make it possible to:

ensure the safety of people and the safety of house property and parked equipment;

increase service life roofing, skylights and fixed on the roof elements of television, drainage, ventilation and electrical systems, as well as other communication equipment;

guarantee a reduction in the total load on the walls and floor elements by periodically and dosed removal of snow from the roof under the action of its own weight;

minimize the cost of public services and building repairs.

You have private house or a dacha, I want to improve it, but the central sewerage is not available.

In this case, the question of a cesspool arises.

What material is best to make it from? Round or square? What depth, etc.

Let's figure out what a brick cesspool is.

Drainage pits most often do:

From concrete rings;
From old tires;
From slate on a metal frame;
From brick.

Why can a person choose a brick?

Ease of installation. Even a novice in the construction business can lay out brickwork. In the case of concrete rings, you will need a special. a technique to bring the rings to the site and lower them into the pit.

For a slate pit, it is required to weld metal carcass. If you are a welder, then this is not a problem, but if not, you will have to hire someone.

Pit diameter for brickwork maybe "back to back", for concrete rings and slate, the pit needs to be done with a margin. This is an important factor if you plan to dig by hand.

The size of the brick pit can be arbitrary, unlike the tire pit, where everything depends on the diameter of the selected wheels.

The main disadvantage of a brick cesspool is its relative fragility.
The service life is about 15 years (concrete and rubber win in this regard, and the slate pit will last about the same).

Preparation for construction

Away from all buildings;
Downstream groundwater;
Where the vacuum cleaner can drive up.

pit shape

Types of drain pits

If, for some reason, you need to make a square hole, then at least make its walls slightly convex outward. The arched effect will give them strength.

Dimensions

Everything is individual here. Of course, the larger the pit, the less often it will have to be pumped out. But the depth is limited by the level of groundwater. As a rule, you need to stop when there are about 30 cm to the water.

If it turns out too shallow, you should think about expanding the hole in length, or make a series of holes connected to each other (see "Drainage hole") You should not dig deeper than three meters, even if the soil is dry.

For a house in which 4-5 people live, a pit 3 m deep and 3 m in diameter is suitable.

Brick selection

cinder blocks and silicate brick definitely unsuitable for construction. They get wet quickly. You need to take a ceramic (red) brick.

Ideally, if the brick is burnt. Him glossy surface and a browner tint than conventional ceramic. Such a brick will significantly increase the life of the pit. He is usually rejected because he irregular shape, is hard to process, but for our case - what we need.

Creation. Step-by-step instruction

digging a hole

This is the most time consuming of all processes. To minimize costs, many decide to dig a well on their own. This is normal, especially if the hole is supposed to be not very large.

In sandy soil, two people can handle a hole 1.5 m by 3 m in a day. In raw clay soil it's much more problematic! Health is more expensive, and there is a choice - to hire people, or an excavator.

The device of a cesspool made of bricks for a private house

Many people think that a man-unit will cost them less. However, before drawing conclusions, pay attention to the approximate calculations below.

Man or machine?

Suppose we need a pit 3m. diameter and 3m. depth.

Circle area S=Pi*R 2 . Those. 7 m2.

7 * 3m. = 21 m 3. The volume of the pit is 21 cubic meters.

A person costs 400-600 rubles. for m 3. It turns out that digging such a hole will cost you 8500-12500 rubles. (they can take more, because one-time work + meals)

The excavator can be paid for cubic meters, or maybe for an hour of work.

The average price for 1 m 3 is 180 rubles.

180*21=3780 rub.

If the payment is hourly, they may include the time of delivery of the excavator to the site (for this reason, look for equipment nearby). But, for comparison, during a working day, an excavator digs a large pond. And takes about 10,000 rubles. And with our well of 21 m 3 it will cope much faster and cheaper!

To make the walls of the pit smooth, the excavator must be able to dig it from both sides.

What to do with soil

Think in advance about where you will put 21 m 3 of earth removed from the pit.

If you decide to hire an excavator, then there are options:

Immediately load it onto a dump truck and take it out,
Dump in heaps next to the sewer and take out later;
Level over area.

The excavator will perform any of the three tasks.

Remember only that part of the earth must be left to form a hill near the hatch.

Fertile upper layer can be moved to the beds.

The form

It should resemble a glass, slightly expanding upward (the walls of the well will also be built at a slight slope, this will also make them stronger). Bottom with a slight slope in the direction where the hatch will be in the future.

Selecting an exit hole sewer pipe from home

Think in advance how the pipe coming from the house will be located. You can immediately dig a trench for it. The depth of the trench depends on the depth of soil freezing in your area. If you are very afraid that freezing will occur, you can additionally insulate the pipe, for example, with glass wool and roofing material, or fill it with expanded clay.
If you provide a sufficient slope of the pipe and prevent the water level from rising in the pit, then you should not be afraid that the sewer will ever freeze.

Base

It's not worth saving here. If the foundation is not made, the drain pit will quickly be covered with silt, and if the foundation bursts, the walls may also suffer. Making such repairs will be so difficult that it is easier to dig a new hole!

The soil is covered with a layer of sand, gravel and a concrete base is poured. The thickness depends on the diameter of the pit - the larger it is, the thicker the concrete layer should be.

Foundation device for brick sewerage

Roughly speaking, 15 - 20 cm. It will be great to strengthen the concrete pancake with reinforcement. Even if the budget is modest, you can always find pieces of old water pipes, corners from beds, etc. We level with a trowel, pull out the ladder and wait 5 - 7 days.

Alternatively, you can use a ready-made concrete pancake of a suitable diameter, but then you need to take care of buying it, bringing it and lowering it into the pit (you will need a crane).

Sometimes a pit is made without a foundation, with the goal of being “absorbed” into the soil. However, after a few years, it will still stop absorbing, because. silt.
Not to decide later challenging tasks better to prevent them right away.

Walls

Sometimes, you can find advice that bricklaying for a pit is done in a checkerboard pattern with broken seams so that “water from the pit is absorbed into the ground” through the walls. This method is only suitable for the second, drainage pit (see below).

Types of masonry walls for draining

The first pit, first of all, must be airtight. For this, the walls are even covered with bituminous mastic.

Masonry is done in half a brick (12 cm.), With large diameter- in a brick (25 cm). The solution is kneaded - cement with sand 1:3, or 1:4.

The removal of wastewater from the bath requires special attention, since in addition to discharging water, you need to take care of removing odors. - read carefully how to create a drainage cushion and how to organize a pit.

Read about the types of treatment systems for waste disposal.

And here is all about the features of internal fittings for drain cisterns. Float type and fittings with buttons, as well as tank options.

overlap

You can use a special ready-made concrete pancake with a hole for the hatch.

Its diameter should be more than the diameter of the brickwork by half a meter. You can pour the pancake yourself right in the pit.

For this, a wooden shield is knocked together, which will serve as a formwork.

In this case, the vent pipe can be directly poured into the ceiling, and for the hatch, a metal formwork can be welded, which will serve as a fastener for the hinges of the lid.

At the last stage, the overlap is covered with a layer of soil. It is better if the manhole cover is located above ground level so that rainwater does not flow there.

It is important to provide reliable constipation from children.

Drainage

The drainage pit is made at some distance from the first, or on the same base and is separated by a partition. It will allow you to call the sewer machine much less often. The essence of the drainage pit is that water from the main one overflows into it without thick components, due to which siltation occurs.

Diagram of a drainage ditch

The effect is achieved due to the “T”-shaped device of the overflow pipe - the liquid is taken from the middle layers of the pit. It should be located lower than the pipe from the house.

For this pit, brick laying with gaps is allowed, and the device without concrete base– and the water just soaks into the soil.

So, a brick sewer pit, this is perfect solution. In many ways, with its construction, you can save money, and no one will see the masonry, which means that this a great opportunity practice for a beginner bricklayer.

Sooner or later the sewers in country house gets clogged. Cleaning methods - hydromechanical, chemical method, as well as folk methods fight against contaminants.

About Usage plastic pipes for the sewer you will learn. Pros and cons, as well as installation features.

Site selection and calculations

The place where the pit will be located must satisfy sanitary standards. The minimum possible distance from the pit to the house is 5 meters. There should be 25–50 meters to water sources (the distance depends on the density of the soil and the level of groundwater) - this is necessary to avoid pollution aquifers and further reservoirs, wells and wells. In addition, it is necessary to provide free access for cleaning the pit with a sewage machine.

Each additional meter of pipeline increases the cost of sewer construction.

the number of residents;
seasonality of residence;
shower, bath.

On average, the volume per person per day is 2 m 3. A family of 3–4 people will need a pit with a volume of 7–9 m 3 - this is with a margin. The form does not matter.

With bottom or without bottom

Depending on the loading conditions of the pit, it can be built completely sealed or without a bottom. If living in a country house will be seasonal and periodic (on weekends), then it is more profitable to build a brick pit without a bottom. A drainage layer of crushed stone and sand is poured over the soil at the bottom of the pit. This will be enough to filter the drains. Sewage in small quantities will accumulate and decompose under the action of bacteria. With a large volume of drains, it is more expedient to make a sealed bottom and periodically clean the pit with a sewage machine.

Advantages and disadvantages

An autonomous sewage system in the form of a brick cesspool has advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages:

environmental friendliness of the collection and disposal system, because sewage is either disposed of by a sewage machine or recycled anaerobic bacteria with a small amount of effluents;
absence of a polluting factor, since all structural elements are made of environmentally friendly materials;
simplicity of design;
no need to attract special equipment and additional labor;

lack of requirements for high qualification in the performance of work.

Disadvantages:

there are restrictions on the construction of the pit when high level groundwater;
release of unpleasant odors;
short service life of bricks in an aggressive environment, repairs are required as the brickwork wears out;
with a large level of effluent, periodic cleaning is required.

Construction

Before making a cesspool of bricks, determine the location of the drive, carry out markings on the surface of the site. For a sealed container, the perimeter of the pit should be with a small margin in each direction. This is necessary for backfill clay (get a hydraulic lock), and prevent soil shedding. If the container is leaky, then the laying is done along the walls and a small gap is left between the bricks. The process of digging a pit is the most laborious and takes most of the time. To reduce digging time, you can involve assistants or hired workers. The depth of the pit should be below the freezing depth and half a meter below the design bottom of the pit. It is also necessary to take into account the depth of the input drain hole through which the waste will flow. As a filtering layer at the bottom of the pit, layers of sand and gravel are poured, 20-30 cm each.

For a sealed container, the bottom of a concrete cesspool is cast over a pillow of sand and gravel. The thickness should be 20–25 cm. Before pouring, a mesh of reinforcement ⌀ 8–10 mm with a mesh size of 200–250 mm is laid at the bottom. The reinforcement is placed on stands 3-5 cm, as it must be in a layer of concrete. Concrete for pouring should be class B10-B15.

Two weeks after pouring, when concrete reaches its basic strength, brick walls can be laid. The dressing of the rows is carried out in a checkerboard pattern. The walls of the pit are laid out either in a brick or in a half-brick, if the soils are non-porous. Sand-cement mortar for laying is prepared from a ratio of 3 parts of sand to one part of cement. When laying, it is necessary to completely fill the seams between the bricks so that waste cannot seep into the ground through the cracks in the masonry. When laying, do not forget to leave a hole for the inlet pipe.

When constructing a two-section pit, a partition is laid out with a hole for overflowing liquid effluents and a hole for overflowing into a drainage well.

When laying out the walls of a leaky pit, the space between the brick and the soil is filled with non-porous soil: coarse sand, fine gravel, brick breakage. If the pit must be airtight, then they sprinkle it with clay and tamp it down.

Having laid out the walls, at the bottom they make a screed from sand-cement mortar with a slope to the side where the hatch for pumping out waste by a sewage machine will be located.

To increase the service life of the pit and reduce the likelihood of contaminants entering the soil, the waterproofing of the cesspool will allow. It is carried out either bituminous materials or waterproofing solutions. Waterproofing materials applied to the inner walls, which must first be leveled with plaster.

The pit is covered reinforced concrete slabs, logs, wooden shields. The overlap area must be more area pits. The edges of the overlap should overlap the outer edges of the walls by 40–50 cm. ventilation pipe and an inspection hatch, which can simultaneously serve as a hatch for pumping sewage.

At a deep level of soil freezing, insulation is first laid on the hatch, and then it is covered with soil, clay, slag.