How to disassemble a cast iron sewer. How to dismantle the old cast-iron sewer yourself? Sewer dismantling

The most difficult step when replacing an old pipeline is dismantling cast iron pipe, which has served its purpose. Previously, in the construction of communications, cast iron pipes were used, the connection of which took place cement mortar, gray or aluminium. Pipelines assembled using the last two substances are very difficult to destroy, so you need to prepare for long dismantling works. And this article will tell you about the technology for their implementation.

General progress

At first it may seem that dismantling outdated communications is a trifling matter, because breaking is not building. However, just the right, qualified approach is needed here, because otherwise it is easy to damage the riser connecting several apartments at once. And this is a real disaster, the consequence of which will be the need to replace the common riser and, of course, the boundless indignation of the neighbors.

Dismantle the cast-iron pipe carefully, adhering to the following sequence:

  1. Turn off the supply of tap water to the apartment.
  2. Disconnection with a wrench of the hose supplying water to flush tank, from the toilet.
  3. Dismantling the toilet bowl (it is necessary to unscrew the bolts securing it to the floor).

  1. Freeing the bathroom from extraneous things and equipment that may interfere with the conduction (bidet, sink, washing machine etc.).
  2. Demolition of the old sewerage system. Due to the fact that cast iron is characterized by high brittleness, pipes located at some distance from the riser can be easily broken with a hammer.
  3. Removal of pipes connected directly to the old riser.
  4. Installation of the cuff on the socket of the tee. First you need to thoroughly clean the bell from old lubricants that prevent quality installation new sewer system.

Dismantling instructions

Destruction of joints with a burner

If joints cast iron pipeline fastened with sulfur, this greatly complicates the task of dismantling. However, we have some tips on how to disassemble the cast iron sewer pipes in this case. like anything Chemical substance, sulfur is destroyed under certain influences, namely, with prolonged heating with an open flame. High temperatures make it viscous and plastic, so that the removal of the substance from the surface becomes simple.

To dismantle the pipeline connected with the use of sulfur, prepare a hammer and chisel, as well as a gas burner for heating. By the way, the burner can be replaced with a blowtorch.

When the pipeline is heated by a lamp or burner, a harmful gas, sulfur dioxide, will be released into the surrounding space. In addition, open flames are also dangerous. Therefore, measures to protect life, health and the environment are mandatory. Sulfur heating operations can last several hours so that the combustion products do not harm the lungs, a gas mask is needed, and to prevent accidental ignition of furniture and other items interior fit protective screen metal or asbestos.

Resolution of joints without a burner (video)

If it is not possible to use the burner, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video below.

Dismantling instructions

It is advisable to start dismantling with the analysis of pipes located at a distance from the riser. This is not difficult and most likely there will be no problems if a chisel and a hammer are used, because cast iron is a very brittle metal.

Due to the brittleness of cast iron, it is not recommended to use a hammer with metal nozzles when dismantling. With a strong impact, a part of the cast-iron pipe may be inside the pipeline, thereby reducing its clearance or creating a serious blockage in the sewer system. Therefore, it is better to use hammers with polymer or plastic heads.

So, consider how to remove a cast-iron sewer pipe:

  1. The destruction with a hammer is carried out until a cross is inserted into the riser.

  1. Next, you need to gradually loosen it inside the riser. You can leave a pipe segment connected to the cross, then the operations for the destruction of the cross will be simplified. Some specialists, on the contrary, remove cast-iron pipes to the maximum, exposing the joints to the maximum.
  2. Dressed in protective equipment and closing the furniture with screens, you should start heating the sulfur. The work will go faster if two people are involved in the dismantling: one melts the connections with a blowtorch or gas burner, and the second one removes the sulfur that has become viscous with a knife.
  3. When eliminated large quantity sulfur from the docking points, the cross is removed from the riser.

Be especially careful when removing pipes connected to a tee located on the riser. Saw off part of the pipe with a grinder, leaving a distance of 10 cm to the riser. Loosen the remaining element and try to remove it from the socket.

Possible problems

The dismantling of the old pipeline must be carried out to the maximum possible limit, since it is better to cut off the cast-iron pipe to the point where it passes into the socket. Then joining a new plastic pipeline and a cast-iron pipe will take less time and effort. Do not think about how to cut a cast-iron pipe, use a grinder.

How to cut a cast-iron pipe if you don't have a grinder? Take a hacksaw and get to work, but this will naturally increase the duration of dismantling operations.

If dismantling attempts fail, you should not be upset: they are sold in stores specially designed for connecting cast iron and polymer pipes.

Sometimes it can be difficult to cut plastic pipes. Try sawing it in half around the circumference, and then apply slight pressure or make a slight rotation - the pipe will burst.

If the pipe cannot be removed from the socket of the riser, and you no longer know how to pull out the cast-iron pipe, make cuts in a circle along the pipe at intervals of about 20 mm, reaching the socket, and then remove it from the riser.

Before connecting cast-iron pipes and polymer pipes, it is required to clean the first ones from sulfur, using the same heating. Once the sulfur has been removed, the pipes are allowed to cool, usually several hours. At the final stage, the installation of a new sewer network is being carried out. It is best to purchase pipes from modern materials: plastic or metal-plastic.

From time to time, the pipeline wears out under the influence of mechanical stress and replacement is required. sewer pipes in the apartment. Most often, residents of old houses face such a problem, where cast-iron pipes rust over the years, cracks appear and leaks occur.

To change the drain lines, you must first properly dismantle the old pipes. Successful completion of the task requires the availability of appropriate plumbing tools and the necessary components.

Dismantling of worn-out elements of the sewer line

In order to repair the sewer in the apartment, it is necessary first of all to identify the location of wear. If there are major damage branch lines, it is enough just to turn off the water supply in the apartment, remove plumbing fixtures and proceed to remove the worn area. If a sewer riser needs to be replaced, it is necessary to coordinate your actions with your neighbors in advance, because the water supply will have to be shut off for them too. It is difficult to calculate the exact time how much sewer pipes will be repaired in advance. However proper preparation and adherence to the planned plan guarantees the successful completion of the process.

Removal of damaged sewer sections consists of the following steps:

  1. Shutting off the water supply to the apartment or to the entire riser.
  2. Switching off the cistern device in the toilet. To carry out the dismantling of the cistern, it is necessary to disconnect the water supply hose.
  3. Removing the toilet. The process is quite laborious, you will need to free the base of the toilet. Sometimes just unscrewing the bolts is enough, but sometimes you have to remove a layer of tiles around the toilet leg. Dismantling the toilet must be done using special tool: wrench, chisels, hammers.
  4. Dismantling of the sewer system. Old pipes are not subject to reuse, so they can be dismantled using physical force and a hammer without regret.
  5. If the replacement of sewer pipes will be carried out only in your apartment, the next step will be to cut the riser with a grinder.

    Attention! During the removal of the old riser, it is not necessary to completely cut the pipe with a grinder, since its upper edge can pinch the disk and deform the tool.

  6. The incised pipe should be carefully removed with a hammer and chisel.
  7. You can try to remove the lower part of the drainage system near the riser by simply swinging it to the sides. If this manipulation does not lead to the desired result, you will need to make incisions with a grinder. How many cuts to make on the pipe is not so important. The main thing is to achieve its split in order to further remove individual fragments.
  8. Clean the socket from grease, cement residues and other contaminants, prepare for installation.

Installation of sewer pipes in the apartment

Replacing the sewer in the apartment begins with the most critical element - the riser. Most often the owners modern apartments decide to change the sewer riser from cast iron to plastic. This choice is fully justified by the high operational characteristics and simple installation of the device.

If you are doing installation for the first time and do not know the exact measurements, you can perform a preliminary fitting of the pipe in order to find out how many centimeters more need to be cut in case of a mismatch. Cut plastic products It's easy, it only takes a few minutes. Before installation work you need to prepare the following components:

  • Rubber cuff;
  • Plastic tee;
  • Plastic pipes with a diameter of 110 mm;
  • Compensator;
  • Stand fasteners.

Installation steps sewer riser:

  1. The rubber cuff is inserted into the socket of the cast-iron pipe.
  2. If the pipe diameter is different, it is necessary to use a special branch pipe - compensator.
  3. Insert the sewer pipe into the attachment points.
  4. Pipe ends are lubricated liquid soap to facilitate the process.
  5. The installed riser must be fixed to the wall using special fasteners.

Important! The sewer riser must be secured to prevent deformation under pressure.

Installation of internal wiring

After the installation of the riser, it is necessary to change the internal wiring in the apartment. The work rules include the following recommendations:

  1. Wiring is carried out from the central riser to plumbing fixtures(toilet, sink).
  2. It is necessary to install not only rigid, but also movable elements of the pipeline. Movable elements made of corrugated pipe, take off internal stress systems.
  3. The sockets should be positioned towards the movement of waste water, this reduces the risk of leakage.
  4. Sewerage should be installed with a slope towards the drainage.
  5. To drain water from the toilet, a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used.
  6. For everyone else plumbing devices it is necessary to use a pipeline with a diameter of 50 mm.

After installing the drainage system Wastewater, the drain tank is connected and a test run is performed. Correct work the drain tank depends on the competent connection to the toilet and the tightness of the connection with the supply pipe. There are also models of a cistern that must be fixed to the wall. All necessary accessories for installation, as a rule, are supplied with the equipment. Also, the drain tank device can be hidden inside drywall construction, which will give aesthetics to the restroom.

Compliance simple recommendations for laying the network for drainage guarantees the reliable functioning of all plumbing fixtures in the apartment, the absence of leaks, extraneous noise and odors. If there are difficulties in carrying out the work on your own, you can call qualified specialists.

Do-it-yourself sewer replacement in an apartment

Interesting on the topic:

Attention! The dismantling of a cast-iron sewer riser refers to plumbing work increased complexity. Sufficient experience with power tools and strict adherence to safety measures are required. Soberly assess your capabilities. In case of failure, you will flood the neighbors and, possibly, not at all with water, injure your hands, ruin your eyes, or start a fire.

It makes sense to change the riser only when new plastic pipes out of your bathroom. But usually neighbors do not give permission to carry out such work. Nevertheless, consider the option of replacing a standard sewer riser with a diameter of 100 mm with the replacement of a tee or cross located near the base of the floor, they look something like this:

1. Tee 2. Left cross 3. Right cross.

Necessary tools and materials:

  1. Perforator;
  2. Chisel, hammer;
  3. Strong knife;
  4. A small "Bulgarian";
  5. 3-4 cutting discs with a diameter of 125 mm and 1 grinding;
  6. Old chisel, Several screwdrivers of different widths, lengths and sharpness;
  7. Goggles, respirator, headgear;
  8. Steel wedge for breaking parts of a pipe made of cast iron;
  9. two wrenches;
  10. a large nail puller or small crowbar to use as leverage.
  11. Pipe cutter for cast iron pipes. The use of such a pipe cutter will significantly speed up and simplify the process of dismantling the sewer, but such a pipe cutter is expensive, and is rarely used on the farm.
  12. Old iron bucket half full cold water;

First, it is necessary to determine how the cast-iron parts were connected, first of all, a tee (1) or a cross (2,3) with a socket (fitting) of a pipe located in the lower ceiling. To do this, carefully clean the junction, usually it is above the floor level. But if you've ever made an additional screed or laid tiles on the floor, the connection may be below the level of the existing floor, in which case a hammer drill or chisel may be needed. Work with both a puncher and a chisel should be very careful not to damage the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling.

Docking could be done with caulking the seams with the usual cement-sand mortar, cement mortar, polymer cement mortar and - the worst option - filling the joint with sulfur. Open with an old chisel or sharp screwdriver upper layer the seam between the tee (cross) and the shaped part of the pipe located in the lower ceiling in order to get to the sealant. If it is something hard to the touch and the chisel slides over the surface with an unpleasant squeak, reminiscent of the sound when you run a knife on glass, then you may very well have come across sulfur. To be sure, try to pick out a sample and try to set it on fire. If the scooped out sample ignites, burns with a blue flame and at the same time caustic gas is released, then you are out of luck - it is sulfur. Then you will need

Additional tools and materials:

  1. Metal, but asbestos shields are better for protection against open fire flammable items;
  2. Gas burner or blowtorch:
  3. Several gas masks, it is better not to undertake such work alone.
  • Before starting work, it is necessary, if possible, to remove all flammable and breakable objects from the bathroom, dismantle the toilet bowl, dismantle the pipes of the internal sewage system (if you have not already done so). If plastic water pipes(and it usually doesn’t happen otherwise) pass next to the sewer riser, then they should be securely covered with sheets of non-combustible material. If for some reason this cannot be done, then the pipes should be cut off and restored at the end of the work.
  • If there are others above your apartment, then it is necessary to warn the neighbors so that they do not use the sewer during the work. How more apartments above you and the more pensioners and children live in them, the more difficult it is to do.
  • Before starting work, empty your pockets of unnecessary things that interfere with normal work. keys to the apartment, mobile phone, a lighter, cigarettes can accidentally fall out of your pocket during work and, most unpleasantly, fall into the riser.

Work should be carried out in a respirator, headgear and goggles.

Work performance technology:

1. Cutting the riser.

Cut the pipe with a pipe cutter. If there is no pipe cutter, make two almost horizontal cuts along the perimeter of the pipe with a "grinder" at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from one another approximately in the middle of the riser. In this case, the conditional planes of the cuts should not be parallel, but converge on the edge of the pipe near the wall where you did not cut the pipe. It is not recommended to cut the pipe to the end, since the upper part of the pipe can sag and pinch the disk, while the disk, grinder, water risers, tile on the walls or your hands.

By driving a special wedge into the cuts on the right and left, you can separate and remove the cut ring. If you do not have a special wedge, then you can additionally make two vertical cuts on the ring that appears after making horizontal cuts. Again, it is advisable not to cut the cuts to the end, so that the cut piece of pipe does not fall into the sewer. Then, using a screwdriver or chisel, carefully break out the cut piece so that it does not fall into the sewer, and knock out the remaining pieces of the ring with a hammer.

Close the hole in the pipe with a wedge of rags.

2. Trimming the top of the pipe.

Cut the top piece of pipe to the estimated height. For later installation plastic sewer you need to leave a piece of pipe coming out of top floor with a height equal to the height of the fitting to be pressed during installation. Determine the required height, make a cut with a "grinder" (if there is no pipe cutter) around the pipe. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the notch plane is as perpendicular as possible to the pipe itself. If you stick near the notch line masking tape so that the end of the adhesive tape exactly overlaps the beginning, then you will thus get a line perpendicular to the axis of the pipe and greatly simplify the task.

Sharply, with a blow, press the bottom of the pipe towards the wall. Cast iron is a brittle material and should crack at the narrowest point, where you did not cut the pipe with a grinder. Here, in addition to skill, strength is also required - a one and a half meter piece of thick-walled cast iron is quite heavy. The success of this operation depends on the depth of the cut and on the distance of the pipe from the wall, the farther the pipe is from the wall, the easier it is to do. If the pipe is cut at least three-quarters of the perimeter, and the cut bottom of the pipe is at least 3 cm from the wall, then everything should end successfully. In rare cases, when the pipe is located closer to the wall, an incision should be made 10 - 15 cm below the established mark. Then dismantle the lower piece of the sewer pipe using a special wedge, and only then make an incision in the marked place. From the bottom cut, the pipe is carefully cut upwards, then the resulting piece is cut horizontally along the mark, each cut sector is removed. The last piece of the pipe, located near the wall, is cut "from the inside" of the pipe by a "grinder" without a protective casing.

Preparation for installation of the upper part of the pipe. "Bulgarian" with grinding disc the cut of the pipe is trimmed and a conical chamfer is removed around the entire perimeter.

3. Removal of the lower piece of cast-iron pipe from the socket, which is concreted into the floor, if the joint is not filled with sulfur.

The lower section of the sewer riser usually consists of several parts or fittings. The design may include a cast-iron revision, a coupling, an expansion pipe, etc. First, check the strength of the connection. To do this, try to download upper part pipes. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the lower socket. If the pipe wobbles even a little, you are in luck - carefully pull out all the dangling parts. If the tee (cross) "moves" at least a little at the joint, then you can gently loosen it (it) and remove it with the help of a crowbar or a nail puller. If the tee or cross is fixed very rigidly, you need to clear the joint to the maximum depth, periodically checking the possibility of rocking. If the width of the joint allows, then you can use a puncher with a thin drill, preferably without a victorious tip. The solution at the joint is carefully hollowed out along the perimeter, the remains of the solution are removed with a screwdriver or chisel. The worst option is if there is almost no seam and the tee (cross) is held very firmly. In this case, you can try to clear the seam with a piece of old canvas for metal. But if you feel that this does not give a result, and are determined to change the tee (cross), then there is only one thing left - cut the tee (cross) 2-3 cm above the socket. Close the hole in the riser with a wedge of rags; for insurance, tie the rags with a rope so that the pipe cuts do not fall into the sewer riser. Then, carefully working with a "grinder" with removed protection, as much as possible cut through the pipe cut remaining in the socket under different angles inclination of the disk without damaging the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling. Remove the remains of the pipe inside the socket using a special wedge.

4. Removal of a tee or cross, if the joint is filled with sulfur.

The tee or cross itself is not cut off, but you need to completely cut off the large socket of the cross or tee with a diameter of 100 mm, this will allow you to bring the working part into the pipe blowtorch, and thereby ensure the required heating of the pipe. A shield made of asbestos or metal is laid on top of the pipe. This will allow you to adjust the draft in the riser. If there are through holes in the lower ceiling near the socket, for example, left after the installation of a water pipe, then through these holes the molten sulfur can enter the bathroom of the lower apartment, and in the worst case, on the neighbor's head. To avoid conflict situations such holes must be sealed with a gypsum or cement-sand mortar before starting work; in extreme cases, for very small gaps, you can use mineral wool. It is advisable to plug the riser with a wedge of non-combustible material so that as much as possible less sulfur got into the stand. Warming up is desirable to perform evenly, and as often as possible to change the direction and angle of the torch. With a sharp heating, even a whole bell can burst, if you hear a loud bang, you know you succeeded, although there is nothing to congratulate here. This does not happen often, only if the pipe was cast from low quality cast iron. However, if the width of the groove allows, then before starting work it is recommended to drill the sulfur fill as much as possible with a drill without a winning tip, you can also use a drill with long drill to relieve potential stress. When heated, molten sulfur will flow into the riser or pour out. When cooled, sulfur quickly hardens. Hardened pieces should preferably be removed to the side, away from open flames. It is not necessary to use a gas mask before the sulfur ignites. But remember that with strong heating, the sulfur melt can boil in a closed volume and splash out, so safety glasses are necessary when working with a gas burner or blowtorch. From time to time, check the mobility of the tee (cross) by swinging or hitting a hammer with different parties. As soon as the backlash appears, stop heating and pull out the tee either after swinging it, lift it up with your hands, or grab it with two adjustable wrenches. The edges of the tee (cross) at the point of capture can break, so you need to be careful.

If burning sulfur remains on the tee (cross), then lower the tee into an iron bucket of cold water. Clean the inside of the pipe socket in the lower ceiling from the remnants of sulfur, cable, soot with an old chisel or a sharp, durable knife.

Dismantling old sewer is an milestone overhaul and replacement of the sewer system in the apartment high-rise building. Contrary to the well-known saying that breaking is not building, disassembling an old sewer riser is a rather responsible and time-consuming event.

In the old days, such structures were built from cast-iron sections, and their docking was carried out for centuries - airtight and very durable. In order to disassemble such a system with your own hands without damaging other people's sections of the riser, you need to apply maximum skill and effort.

The sewer system of a multi-storey building consists of a central riser and intra-apartment.

The riser, common to all apartments located one above the other, looks like a column of separate sections of special sewer pipes, into which the intra-apartment wiring cuts through a shaped outlet (tee or cross). Such a connecting element is inserted between two pipe sections.

All old sewer sections and inlets were made of cast iron. Cast-iron pipes have a socket at the upper end, into which the lower even cut of the section is inserted.

The connecting section is made in the form of a tee or a cross. Their design, in principle, is similar: a short pipe with an upper socket with a diameter equal to the diameter of the main sewer pipe, and a lateral inlet tide, located at an angle, for connecting the intra-apartment sewerage.

Dismantling principle

Preparation for dismantling

Before starting to sort out the riser, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. This stage includes the following activities:

  • disconnection from the sewer of all plumbing devices (toilet, bathtub, sinks, and so on);
  • clearing the area around the pipes and riser;
  • blocking water in all apartments above the dismantled area;
  • warning neighbors about the inadmissibility of using the sewer for the duration of the work.

It is important that no flammable materials remain in the dismantling area, as an open flame will have to be used.

If a water pipe from plastic pipes passes near the riser, then they should be securely covered with a screen or asbestos.

Carrying out work

The dismantling of the old sewage system includes several main stages: dismantling the intra-apartment piping, removing the cast-iron riser pipes and dismantling the tee (cross).

Removing the apartment system

When carrying out a major overhaul, it is advisable to completely disassemble the wiring (to the kitchen and other devices). If the joints are made very firmly, then it makes no sense to waste time disconnecting all the elements.

It is simply cut as close as possible to the socket of the outflow of the tee using a pipe cutter or grinder. Difficulties with disassembly may arise if the pipes were previously masked floor coverings- They must be carefully removed. It is even worse if the pipes get under the concrete floor screed. In this case, you will have to work with a puncher, a chisel (chisel) and a hammer.

Removing the cast iron pipe

The dismantling of the riser begins with the removal, located between the tee and the ceiling. First, an annular gap is made on top of the section. To do this, at a distance of 12-16 cm from the ceiling, using a grinder, a cut is made in the pipe with the rest of the wall of about 3-5 cm.

An incomplete cut is needed to prevent jamming of the tool with a possible vertical movement of the column. Then, stepping back 9-13 cm down, a similar cut is made, parallel to the first. The ring between the cuts is carefully knocked out with a hammer or wedges.

After creating a gap in the rack, the top tube is closed polymer film to avoid leaks.

The next step is sawing the cast iron section from the bottom. For its implementation, an incomplete cut by a grinder is made at a height of 50-70 cm from the upper socket of the tee. The clamps securing the section to the wall are removed (they can simply be cut off with a grinder). The pipe is broken by swinging or hitting with a hammer at the place of incomplete cut and removed from the column.

Dismantling the tee

The most important operation of the entire dismantling of the old sewage system is the removal of the tee from the socket of the lower section of the riser. As noted, there is important condition: Do not damage this bell. Most simple options dismantling are used when filling the joint with cement mortar. First, an attempt is made to separate by loosening.

A crowbar is placed in the hole of the rest of the pipe, with its help bending forces are created in different directions. Most often, such loosening destroys the cement bond, and the tee can be removed from the lower socket. When the joint is destroyed, the ingress of large cement pieces into the pipe should be eliminated, that is, the cement is removed from the socket with a screwdriver or chisel.

If loosening did not lead to positive result, then a more time-consuming method will have to be applied: the cement mass is destroyed with a chisel and a hammer. Given the brittleness of cast iron, this procedure should be carried out very carefully, and the impact force should be applied away from the walls of the socket. The goal is to provide a gap between the tee pipe and the socket walls. As the cement pieces break off, they are immediately removed from the joint area.

Most hard way dismantling has to be used for sulfuric filling of the joint. Such a composition is very durable and does not lend itself to the destruction methods described above. In this case, heating of the joint area is most often used using gas burner or blowtorch. The work is carried out by two people. One worker warms up the joint, and the other loosens the tee.

When the mass is melted, the tee is easily removed from the socket. Such work takes place when very harmful gases are released, which means that precautions must be observed (respirator and goggles).

Finally, extreme circumstances may arise when it is not possible to remove the tee from the lower section in any way (it is impossible to use heating, especially strong pouring and other non-standard situations). In this case, the most undesirable option is used - the tee is cut off at a height of about 5-6 cm from the socket. The end of the rest of the pipe is carefully aligned, and subsequently, when installing plastic pipes, you will have to use a coupling.

If the installation of new plastic sewer pipes is planned, then it is impossible to do without the rather laborious dismantling of the old cast-iron sewer. This process can cause a number of difficulties, so you should prepare in advance to solve problems that arise.

Dismantling sewer pipes can be a real problem if you are planning repairs in an apartment that was built back in the Soviet years.

Then, as is known, special choice construction and finishing materials did not have. Instead of PVC pipes, cast iron pipes were used as sewer pipes.

They were bolted to the floor, and for greater reliability they were poured right on the spot with sulfur, aluminum or cement. Thus, the structure was welded to the floor or wall almost tightly, so its dismantling will be quite problematic.

You will not be able to use the dismantled pipe in the future. In addition to fairly strong wear, a cast-iron pipe is simply no longer relevant today, it is much easier to use plastic pipes for repairs. pvc pipes, which are lighter, more reliable, and easier to install.

And the old cast-iron pipe, perhaps, can be handed over to one of the scrap metal collection points. For example, the company "Russian Metal" is engaged in the acceptance of used metal for its further processing.

Many people think that dismantling is much easier than the construction or installation of pipes. Breaking is not building, but in the case of the old cast iron sewer, you will definitely have to work hard to reach the goal.

Let us consider in more detail the process of dismantling a cast-iron pipe and its features.

How to dismantle a cast iron pipe?

If the pipe is “welded” to the wall or floor with sulfur or aluminum, it will be very, very difficult to destroy such a coating.

To get started, you must first turn off the water supply to the apartment. Then you need to free the bathroom from unnecessary items that you can damage during work. This includes a sink, washing machine, laundry basket, and more.

Next, you need to disconnect from the water supply cistern and dismantle the toilet itself. Problems can also arise here, since Soviet toilets were screwed to the floor to the conscience, in other words, tightly.

Try to unscrew the bolts that attach the toilet to the floor and remove it from its place. If you succeed, consider yourself half done.

Now comes the turn of the pipes themselves. Cast iron, as you know, does not differ in particular strength, therefore, at some distance from the riser old pipe you can just smash with a hammer. It is much more difficult to remove the remnants of pipes from the old riser and clean them before installing new ones.

To dismantle pipes, you may need:

  • Hammer with rubber or plastic tip.
  • Chisel
  • Burner or blowtorch
  • Mask

Quite a strange combination, isn't it? However, a gas mask is necessary to comply with safety regulations if the joints of the sewer pipes in your bathroom are filled with sulfur.

The easiest way to remove sulfur is to heat it. However, when heated, the sulfur mass releases toxic substances into the air, which are extremely harmful to a person inhaling. That is why it is better to protect yourself in advance with a gas mask.

So, dismantling must begin at the place of greatest distance from the riser. Here, most craftsmen do not suffer with a burner, but simply break the pipe with a hammer. This is much easier, but can cause some complications.

Make sure that pieces of pipe do not fall into the sewer passage when broken. They can cause a serious blockage in the sewer, which will be much more difficult to get rid of than getting rid of old pipes.

With a hammer, you can destroy the pipe to the very cross, inserted into the riser. Here it is somewhat different and filled with gray much more.

To free the pipe and cross from the layer of sulfur, you need to heat it. The impact of a torch or blowtorch can last for several hours, while harmful substances will be constantly highlighted.

Before starting heating, isolate animals and households, cover furniture or other furnishings in the immediate vicinity of the riser, put on a gas mask.

During the heating process, you can easily chip off lumps of sulfur until the pipe is sufficiently clean. Now, the cross, inserted into the riser, must, if possible, be loosened and removed from the riser.

The dismantling of the old pipeline is carried out to the maximum. That is, pipes are removed as much as possible, and others are mounted in their place.

Compound new pipe pvc with old cast iron riser will require certain skills in the work. Please note that you must clean the junction as much as possible from the same sulfur and rust.

To facilitate the work, use a special coupling, which is specially designed for connecting cast iron pipe and PVC pipe.

If you have any questions, take a look at ours and ask them there. Our experts will help you understand the intricacies good construction and repair.

Fitting © 2022 Design and interior of apartments