Without them, it is impossible to imagine the execution of even the simplest operation. Before proceeding with the actual processing of wood, it is necessary to choose the right bar and mark the position of the future part.

Roulette

A tape measure is a measuring tape made of thin flexible steel enclosed in a metal or plastic case. The tape is wound automatically. The length of the measuring tape ranges from 100 to 200 cm. The divisions on the tape are marked every millimeter. The numbers indicate centimeters and tens of centimeters. A tape measure is used to measure linear quantities.

folding rule

Such a meter is made of metal, plastic or wooden plates with millimeter and centimeter divisions. The plates are interconnected by hinges. Such a meter is convenient when installing parquet and when measuring small quantities (Fig. 12, a).

Rice. 12. Marking tools: a - folding rule; b - thickness gauge; in - a square.

square

Used to establish the exact right angle and to measure the angle between the sides of the parts. It most often consists of metal or wooden parts, less often it is made entirely of steel. On one of the sides there is a marking of 1 mm for ease of use (Fig. 12, c).

Square-centre finder

Used when searching for the center of a cylindrical part. It consists of a ruler fixed in the middle of the base of an isosceles triangle. The square is placed on a cylindrical surface and then gradually moved to the center, while the desired values ​​​​will be the diameters of the circle.

Reismus

Used for marking and drawing marks parallel to one of the sides of the bar. It looks like a thick bar, into which two strips are inserted, having metal points on one side for marks (Fig. 12, b).

Erunok

Erunok is a square of two plates, one of which is fixed in the middle of the other at an angle of 45 °. Such a square is convenient in determining the angle of 135 ° (Fig. 13).

Rice. 13. Erunok.

Malka

Rice. 14. Malka.

Compass

It is used for drawing round parts on workpieces, as well as for quickly transferring markings.

Nutrometer

It is a kind of compass, the ends of which are turned outward. Such a device is used to measure the internal diameter of various parts.

Level

Used to check if a surface is vertical or horizontal.

It is a fairly thick and wide ruler, equipped with liquid ampoules. It is by the position of the liquid bubble in the ampoule that the horizontal plane is determined (Fig. 15).

Rice. 15. Level.

Level with a plumb line

This type of level is a small cone-shaped or cylindrical weight on a string. Lowering it parallel to the wall or side of a large workpiece, you can identify deviations from the vertical (Fig. 16).

Rice. 16. Plumb.

otvoloka

It is used when marking lines on the edge of the workpiece, it is a small bar with a bevel at one end and a protrusion with a driven nail. The lines are marked on the surface of the wood with the sharp end of this nail (Fig. 17).

Rice. 17. Ditch.

brace

This is a carpentry tool for marking eyes and sockets when they are manually selected. The staple device is based on a wooden block, in which a quarter is selected on one side at a distance of 1/3 of the entire length. Then, on this quarter, nails are driven in at a certain distance, with the tips of which risks are applied in the form of parallel lines on a wooden surface (Fig. 18).

Rice. 18. Carpenter's staple.

Calipers

This tool is used to measure the size of parts. To do this, the side of the part is placed between the bar and the frame; the upper mustache will show the size of the measured distance.

Carpentry and joinery tools

Hand tools are designed to perform work using own strength. Most of the tools described can be easily replaced with mechanical or electrical counterparts. But for many types of joinery and carpentry, hand tools remain indispensable.

Conventionally, carpentry and joinery tools can be divided according to their purpose: for sawing, planing, chiselling and trimming, drilling and auxiliary work.

General purpose tools

A hammer, perhaps the most important tool for carpentry and joinery. The stores sell ready-made hammers, as well as their individual parts. For the hammer handle, cornel, pear, and acacia wood is used, which are particularly hard and cheap. Only high-quality steel is used for the hammer head. But even this simple tool has several varieties.

normal hammer can be found in any store. The impact surface of such a hammer has a rectangular or square plane. The other end of the striker is pointed, it is often used to straighten nails when driving.

Wooden mallet or mallet(Fig. 19), used for grinding wooden arrays when gluing. It is also quite often needed when working with a chisel whose handle is made of wood. Blows delivered with a regular hammer can simply break the handle and render the chisel useless.

Rice. 19. Mallet.

carpentry hammer differs from the usual one in that the tail of the striker is divided into two parts like a dovetail. This end is most often used for pulling nails.

Ticks necessary for working with wood. Their main purpose is pulling out nails, biting off nail heads, bending wire and nails during fastening.

Depending on what needs to be done with a nail, there are needle nose pliers, pliers and round nose pliers.

For example, pliers and pliers used for pulling out, bending, biting nails, unscrewing nuts, removing screws with broken grooves from wood and for other auxiliary work.

Doboynik in carpentry and carpentry used to drive a nail head into a piece of wood.

Screwdriver used for fastening wooden parts with screws. Depending on the groove on the head of the screw, it is necessary to have two types of screwdrivers: wedge-shaped and cross-shaped.

Fixing devices

Fixing devices: clamps, wedges, clamps, clamps, clamps, presses, vise.

Clamps are necessary when gluing, tightening and fastening parts. This is a fairly large group of devices that are used in carpentry and carpentry. Not only clamps act as clamps. Their metal construction is not always suitable for fastening parts, as it often leaves marks on the surface.

For the same purposes, pieces of rubber, ropes or wooden blocks are often used.

Chopping tool

An ax in carpentry is simply irreplaceable. Remember what miracles the old masters did using only an ax. It is much simpler than a hammer, but there are also varieties here. It all depends on the angle of the ax handle. Often the blade is sharpened on both sides, which allows it to be used for two types of work at once: cutting and hewing. An ax sharpened on only one side is used for hewing wood (Fig. 20).

Rice. 20. Ax and sharpening principles.

straight ax used for splitting wood. The working part relative to the handle should be located at an angle of 90 °.

Pointed Ax is intended for primary processing of wood: removal of bark and protruding knots on the trunk. The working part of this type of ax relative to the handle is located at an angle of 80–85°.

Obtuse Ax has its own characteristics. Its ax is located relative to the handle at an angle of 100 ° or slightly less. Such an ax is used for the most rough work, for example, for processing whole logs and cutting large wooden arrays.

drill- a cutting tool in the form of a drill with an eye (eye) for a handle, which, like a lever, increases torque. A drill is used for drilling holes in wood for dowels, spikes, dowels, dowels. There are: screw drills for drilling deep holes; corkscrew drills for drilling shallow holes.

WATERPASS

The simplest device for checking the horizontalness of surfaces and measuring small angles of inclination during excavation, carpentry, and other works. The spirit level is in many ways superior to the bubble plumb line. The spirit level is easy to make yourself. For this, an evenly planed board 40 ... 100 mm wide and 1 ... 2 m long (horizontal base) is taken and another planed board of the same or smaller width, but about 2 times shorter, is attached perpendicular to it in the middle ( vertical post). A line is drawn on the rack perpendicular to the lower edge of the base, and a plumb line is attached at the upper end. If the surface being checked is horizontal, then the plumb line coincides with the line; if not horizontal, then the plumb line deviates from the line the more, the greater the slope of the surface being checked. The spirit level can be made in the form of an equilateral triangle by attaching a plumb line to its top and making a mark in the center of the base. To check the horizontalness of small surfaces (shelves, window sills, tables), you can use an ordinary drawing triangle as a spirit level by attaching a small weight - a plumb line to its top on a thread.

You need a 45-degree square, that is, with the same sharp corners of 45 °. To make the operation of the device more visual, you need to increase the clearance in the square.

Draw a square with a pencil according to the figure. From the center, marked 10 mm below the top of the right angle, draw an arc with a compass. It should connect the sharp corners of the lumen. Then drill a through hole in the marked center. Do this carefully so that the square does not disperse. Always choose the shavings.
Connect the sides of the resulting hole with straight lines with sharp corners of the clearance. Expand the gap along these lines and arc with a sharp knife and sand with sandpaper.

Find correct position plumb end. To do this, take the second drawing square and put it on the spirit level square. One of the sides of the square must exactly coincide with the base of the spirit level, and the other must pass exactly through its top. Now draw a risk on the arc of the spirit level and cut a narrow groove along this risk with a sharp knife.

A hanger for a thread is best made from a loop from a hook for a dress (sometimes such a hook is called a corsage hook. At its ends there are two ears for sewing. Grab each of them with pliers and turn 90 °. After that, put the loop on the square from the clearance side.

For stability, the spirit level must have a wide base. Pick up two planks 8-10 mm thick. They should be 30-40 mm longer long side square. Glue these boards with wood glue as shown in the picture. Carefully align them with the edge of the square and hold them in your hands for a few minutes until the glue sets. After that, pull off the protruding ends of the boards with twine and leave to dry overnight.

The next day, remove the twine and cut off the protruding ends of the boards. Polish the lower base of the spirit level by running it over a sheet of fine sandpaper placed on a piece of glass or other smooth surface. If there are traces of glue on the spirit level, scrape them off with a knife.

Now you need to make a suspension. Put the loop back on the top of the spirit level from the clearance side. Cut off a piece of the match so that it fits tightly into the hole of the square, and put it there on the glue. Having folded a strong thread in half, pass its ends through the suspension loop. Then insert these ends into the remaining loop and pull tight. Fold the hanging ends together and thread into the ear sewing needle. Move the needle on the thread so that its point slightly clings to the arc of the spirit level. After that, fold the threads before and after the needle together and tighten with a knot. The knot will shorten the thread a little, and the tip of the needle will no longer cling to the arc of the spirit level.

It remains to put a lead weight on the needle. A fishing sinker is best. A piece of lead sheath from an electric cable, a lead seal is also suitable. Putting on the weight, crimp it with pliers.

Joiner's tool for shaping grooves and rollers different widths, depth and with different radius of curvature.

The sole of the fillet block and the blade of the knife are oval-convex. The cutting angle is 45–50°. Shoe length - 200–250 mm, width - 5–35 mm (depending on the required dimensions and the radius of curvature of the cut groove). A fillet, like a zentoubel, can have a lateral chip exit.

NAIL PULLER

Manual lever-wedge device for pulling out (pulling out) nails driven into the material (wood, plastic, etc.). It is produced in the form of an independent specialized tool or structurally combined with such tools as a hammer, crowbar. The word "nail puller" is Russian and comes from "tear" (tear out, pull out) nails.

The nail puller is a curved metal wedge, divided in two by a working groove designed to grip and hold when “pulling out” (pulling out) the nail for the so-called. "hat" from the material into which the nail is hammered. The action of the nailer is based on the effect of the wedge on the wedged surfaces - the nail and the material into which the nail is hammered, as well as on the principle of the lever, when the nail is further pulled out. The nail puller is also used by carpenters, loaders and in the destruction wooden structures(containers, buildings, etc.).

Gorbach- a planer with removable pads, used for manual planing of convex and concave parts.

: a - sampler; b - falzgebel; in - zenzubel; g - tongue and groove; d - primer; e - shtap; g - kalevka; h - fillet; and - humpbacks with concave and convex body .

Gorbach is used for planing convex and concave surfaces. A part with a convex surface is treated with a humpback planer with a concave sole, with a concave surface - with a planer with a convex sole. Gorbach has a wooden or metal block. Wooden blocks, which have a constant curvature, are less convenient due to their limited use. Humpbacks with a metal block, the curvature of the sole adjustable with screws, are more versatile. With such a planer with a knife and a chip breaker, convex and concave surfaces of various curvature and a flat surface are planed. Knife width - 50 mm. Humpback shoe length - 250, width - 60 mm.

Gruntubel- a carpentry tool designed for manual selection of a tongue and its stripping after selection with an award or a chisel.

Profile planing tools: a - sampler; b - falzgebel; in - zenzubel; g - tongue and groove; d - gruntubel; e - shtap; g - kalevka; h - fillet; and - humpbacks with a concave and convex body.

BIT

Carpentry or joinery tool designed for manual selection of nests, grooves, spikes and other work. The blade in the chisel has one-sided sharpening.

: a - carpentry (blade width - 16, 20, 25 mm); b - carpentry (blade width - 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, 20 mm).

(German: Simshobel) - a carpentry tool for sampling and cleaning quarters, folds, grooves, as well as sharpening perpendicular surfaces. Zenzubel can have a single or double knife up to 33 mm wide, resembling a spatula in shape. The zenzubel knife has a blade wider than the block, it is installed in the block from below at an angle of 45 ... 50 ° and fixed from above with a wedge. The length of the block of the zenzubel is 200, the height is 80, the width is 20 ... 30 mm.

A zenzubel or selector is a narrow planer with a flat, even edge of an iron knife. With the help of a zentubel, a quarter is selected - a narrow groove at a right angle on the edge of the workpiece, for example, in window frames, to deepen the glass.

In order for the groove to be of the same width during planing, a steel plaque with a barely protruding tip was fixed on the tool block. It guided the movement of the sampler along the boundaries of the quarter previously drawn by the thickness gauge and facilitated the first stitching and the entire sample. The zenzubel knife is made in the form of a blade, the cutting part of which has a width of 18 - 30 mm; the blade can be straight or oblique, the knife can be single or double (with a chipbreaker). The quarters at the ends were chosen with an oblique zenzubel. For a knife with an oblique blade, the longer side edge is also made cutting, the sharpening angle increases to 75 - 80 °. dimensions zenzubel pads - 240/20/80 with a knife length of 210 - 220 mm. Thanks to the hole on the side of the block, chips can freely exit.

Profile planing tools: a - sampler; b - falzgebel; in - zenzubel; g - tongue and groove; d - primer; e - shtap; g - kalevka; h - fillet; and - humpbacks with a concave and convex body.

Kalevochnik- carpentry tool with a figured cutter for profile processing of the front surfaces of parts, bars or boards. The sole of the molder has a mirror shape to the profile shape.

Profile planing tools: a - sampler; b - falzgebel; in - zenzubel; g - tongue and groove; d - primer; e - shtap; and - mold; h - fillet; and - humpbacks with a concave and convex body.

KIYANKA

Kiyanka- carpenter's hammer made of wood hard rock. The mallet is used to work with chisels and chisels, the handles of which have a crimp ring. Using a mallet protects the handles of cutting tools from damage.

mallets: a - round; b - prismatic.

Joiner's mallet. It is used for grooving work performed with a chisel and chisel, as well as for knocking out cutters when setting up planing tools.

The wide sides of the striker of the mallet are made flat and parallel to each other, one of the narrow longitudinal strikers is straight, the opposite one is somewhat rounded with a smooth arc, and the end sides are sawn off with respect to the axis of the handle not parallel to it, but at an angle of 6-7 °.

The handle is inserted not from behind, but from the front of the striker, from the side of the rounded edge, into a through hole with a slight taper. Under this condition, the striker cannot break off the handle during operation, but on the contrary, the more the striker approaches the end of the handle, the stronger the handle sits in it.

In order to facilitate the most difficult technical operation in the manufacture of a mallet - chiselling a hole for a handle - you should first drill a through hole with a 20 mm drill, then widen the hole with a chisel. Material for the mallet: hornbeam, elm, butt birch and other viscous and heavy woods. Finish: drying oil coating.

Mallet locksmith(or tin) is used for straightening sheet metal, as well as for folding different products from sheet metal. It differs from the mallet in a carpentry simpler shape of both the striker and the handle: the striker is made rectangular, and the handle is round, slightly narrowed on one side. In the narrow part, a cut is made into which the wedge is inserted. The material for the striker is the butt of a birch, for the handle - ordinary birch wood or wood of other dense species.

Mallet turning It is used for the same purpose as a locksmith's (tinsmith's) mallet, but differs from it in the manufacturing method: both the striker and the handle of the first are machined on a lathe.

mallets: a - with a spherical head and a round handle; b - mallet weighing 1 - 2 kg. for swing strikes and removal of a large volume of wood with a large chisel (a rectangular handle for easy holding; the figure shows the definition of the length of the handle and the direction of the end plane of the striker); c - a kind of mallet that can be used as a lapping hammer; g - mallet from a bar.

WHITE

Rotate- a device for manual rotation of drills and other tools. A rotary with a set of drills allows you to drill cylindrical holes in hardwood. Rotary wrench with a set of screwdrivers allows you to screw screws and screws.

Hand screw drill (a) and brace (b): 1 - pressure head; 2 - handle; 3 - steel rod with thread; 4 - clamping chuck; 5 - ring, switch; 6 - ratchet mechanism.

jigsaw

Hand tool for sawing along a curved contour of wood products and other soft materials. The most commonly used jigsaw is in the form of a U-shaped metal frame, between the ends of which the saw blade is stretched so that when sawing it does not bend and at the same time is not overstressed. The tension of the file is provided by slight compression of the ends of the U-shaped frame. The teeth of the file are usually oblique and directed towards the handle. When sawing, the saw is carried out vertically, placing the workpiece at chest level on a special stand attached to a table or workbench. To obtain curved cuts, only the workpiece is rotated without changing the position of the jigsaw (relative to the stand). Instead of a U-shaped frame, a device is often used in the form of a springy curved lever or a spring attached to the bracket; these devices allow you to move the file not only with your hand, but also with your foot. Sometimes jigsaws are called joiner's bow saws with a narrow saw blade for cutting curved lines. There are also several types of electric jigsaws (including attachments for an electric drill), in which the reciprocating movement of the file is provided by an electric motor.

MALKA

Transfer Tool angular dimensions when marking parts, which is a folding square of two hinged parts of the base - a ruler and a block. The mutual position of these parts is fixed with a screw.

a - with a side clamping screw; b - with end clamping screw; 1 - block; 2 - ruler; 3 - clamping screw

Medvedka- hand cutting tool for rough planing of large surfaces, such as beams, hewn sides of logs, boards of house cladding, floors, ceilings or partitions; kind of strings. Distinctive feature- a wooden block of a bear has 2 pairs of cylindrical handles (300 mm long and about 20 mm in diameter) for working together (4 hands). Planed by a bear, usually sitting astride a processed log, beam or board facing each other at a distance of a full arm span. For planing smooth surfaces, a single knife with a straight blade, rounded at the corners, is used. Sometimes, for example when chiseling roof boards to drain rainwater, one or two knives with oval blades are used.

MEISSEL

Meisel- knife-chisel, sharpened on both sides at an angle of 20-25 degrees, used for finishing wood turning. Meisels are used to eliminate roughness and level the surface of the product. The chisel is a knife-jamb, sharpened on both sides at an angle of 20 ... 25 °. Blade cutting angle - 70…75°; tool width - 5 ... 50 mm. Sharpening the blade at an angle makes it possible to work with its middle when convex or straight surfaces are to be turned. Using an acute angle, the meisel is also used for finishing the profile surface, trimming the ends and cutting off the product, and using an obtuse angle, for turning the workpiece with the formation of rounding.

joint knife Designed for cutting small recesses in solid wood, as well as for cutting veneer into pieces. The blade of the knife-jamb is beveled at an angle of 30-40 degrees, and the blade of the knife can vary depending on its purpose - from 4 mm to 5 cm. Sharpening on the knife blade can be done both on one side and on both sides, depending on from this distinguish knives with one and two chamfers. Knives with one chamfer are distinguished into right and left, depending on which side is chamfered. Single-faced knives are used only when working with either the right or left hand. They are more specific than double-beveled knives and only allow you to cut through the wood on one side, depending on which side you need to cut. Knives with two chamfers are universal in work, but they cut wood immediately on both sides of the blade. Their main purpose is simple cutting. The scraper knife is used for such an operation as scraping and is a cutting knife fixed in a hardwood handle. When sharpening, the chamfer is removed only on one side by 45 degrees, which allows the knife to slide over the surface without going deep into the array and remove thin chips.

Cutting tool: a - corner chisels; b - chisels-clucarzy; in - chisels-cerasics; G - joint knife.

HACKSAW

Portable hand tool(saw), designed for transverse cutting of boards, bars, plastics and other materials. The varieties of hacksaws are: reward; a hacksaw with a butt for precise fitting of the ends of the mating elements; narrow hacksaw for curved cuts.

Single-handed joinery saws: a - transverse hacksaw (wide); b - narrow hacksaw; in - a hacksaw with a butt; g - hacksaw-award; d - bow saw; 1 - canvas; 2 - handle; 3 - racks; 4 - string; 5 - mullion; 6 - spin.

The main provisions that should be followed when choosing a hacksaw:

material to be cut. What material will your saw work on? What are the expected dimensions of the processed workpieces? Of course, there is not a special saw for every task, but the main patterns work very clearly here, and an intelligent consultant, knowing the set of your requirements, will definitely select the best option.

Cut quality. Where an accurate cut is needed (for example, when repairing furniture), it is better to use a hacksaw with a small tooth. For fast (and rough) sawing, saws with a large tooth and a long blade are designed.

Canvas length. The length of the blade practically does not affect the convenience and accuracy of working with a hacksaw with a fine tooth. But a large tooth is effective only on energetic cuts, so the blade should be long enough. For a medium-sized tooth, the statement is also true. Such hacksaws have a length of 450 to 500 mm.

Canvas material. The blade is usually made from high quality steel. An elementary test of the web for strength is a fold into an arc equal to half the circle. The "correct" saw after that will surely restore its original appearance.

Teeth. Each of them is an elementary cutter in the form of a wedge. Which of its surfaces is cutting depends on the shape of the sharpening. This also determines the range of tasks of the hacksaw. There are special models for longitudinal and transverse cutting of wood. However, wood saws with a universal tooth are most common - they can cut wood in both directions.

The dimensions of the teeth are determined by the height and width, but for simplicity, another parameter was introduced - the number of teeth per inch or the number of their tops per inch (the second is one more than the first). The higher these figures, the smaller the cutters of the saw, and vice versa.

An important point is the hardening of the teeth: if it is, then the saw will retain its sharpening for a long time (5-6 times longer than usual), without being erased even on materials that are not “too tough” for a simple hacksaw. But this convenience cannot be used “forever”: blunt hardened cutters are not re-sharpened.

plays an important role and saw spreading. It determines the quality of the cut and the ease of work.

Saw handle. The shape of the handle should provide a firm grip without slipping. Otherwise, sawing will be more difficult, and you can easily earn calluses. Most handles are two-component with rubber inserts. The ergonomic handle effectively transfers force to the blade, evenly distributing it over the entire surface.

otvoloka

A tool designed to draw marking lines necessary for a tight connection of two mating parts. The fence consists of a bar with a ledge into which a nail is driven. When marking, the cutting end is inserted between the mating parts and pressed against the edge of the lower part. Moving the tool, draw a line parallel to the edge of the lower part with the tip of the nail on the surface of the upper part.

: a - general view; b - drawing of connected boards; 1 - bar; 2 - nail; 3 - connected boards

SAW

Saw- a cutting tool used for sawing material by cutting a number of successive cutters - teeth - during its translational and rotational movement. By the nature of the working movement, saws are divided into round (these include toothed saws for cold and hot sawing and toothless saws (friction saws)) and longitudinal (these are hacksaw and tape blades).

Two-handed saw- a tool for transverse cutting of round timber, beams and thick boards.

Circular saw- a steel disk with teeth applied on its circumference. In circular machines, the circular saw is driven by an electric motor. Circular saws used for cutting wood, metal and other materials.

Band saw- machine multi-cutting cutting tool for sawing wood, metal and other materials with an endless (closed) flexible steel band with teeth. The belt is driven by pulleys on which it is put on. The band saw allows you to make longitudinal, transverse, oblique and rounded cuts.

Bow saw- saw in the form wooden machine(beam) with a stretched canvas. The canvas is stretched with a twisted cord (string). There are: oar (opening) bow saws for longitudinal sawing; transverse bow saws for cross cutting; tenon-cutting bow saws for clean, thin and very precise cuts; circular bow saws for curved figured sawing.

When processing wood, saws with loose (transverse two-handed and knife) and stretched (beam) blades are used. Two-handed saws are used for rough cutting of materials, mainly in carpentry. In carpentry, single-handed saws are used.

A wide hacksaw is used for transverse cutting of material. A narrow hacksaw is used for sawing thin lumber, sawing curved parts and making through cuts. A hacksaw with a butt is used mainly for making shallow cuts, cutting into a “mustache”, etc. A reward hacksaw is used mainly for blind sawing of grooves for dowels.

For most whitewood and all cabinetry work, fine-tooth bow saws are recommended. The bow saw is designed for longitudinal and transverse sawing of wood. AT general view- this is a beam (machine) with a stretched canvas. Bow saws there are: loose - for ripping; transverse - for transverse sawing; rounded - for curvilinear (figured) sawing; spiked - for cutting spikes and eyes.

WIRING

Wiring- a device for bending in different directions (wiring) saw teeth in order to prevent jamming (clamping) of the blade in the cut. Distinguish between simple and collet wiring. When setting the teeth, it is necessary to make the same bend of the teeth on each side and at the same height. It is recommended to bend the tooth at half the height of the tooth with wires. You can set the teeth before and after sharpening, depending on the wear of the teeth. With a significant distortion of the divorce, it is better to first dissolve and then sharpen. To set the teeth, different designs are used.

: a - universal: 1 - lever, 2 - plate, 3 - adjusting screws, 4 - swivel adjustment of the amount of divorce, 5 - scale, 6 - screw with stop, 7 - spring; b - wiring with an emphasis: 1 - adjustable plate, 2 - handle, 3 - stop bracket, 4 - wing nut, 5 - screw

Rasp- (German Raspel, from raspeln - scrape) a file with a rare, large and sharp notch, usually with semi-conical teeth. The rasp is used for rough processing of soft metals, plastics, wood, leather and other materials.

Working with a rasp does not require special knowledge and skills. When processing a part with a rasp, it is fixed in a vice. The vise is set to such a height that the fingers of the hand bent into a fist, the elbow of which is on the jaws of the vise, touch the chin. The rasp is held right hand by the handle, and the left - by the end.

It is necessary to work with a rasp, using its entire length, only when leveling the surface of the product, a short stroke of the rasp is allowed. A rasp is usually leveled and smoothed over the ends, ribs and holes of products. Sawdust and small wood shavings quickly clog the notch of the rasp. It is best to clean the rasp with a steel brush. Plastic filings and shavings are easier to remove from the rasp if lowered into hot water. A wet rasp must be wiped dry and dried so that it does not rust. If the rasp is not used for a long time, it should be covered with a thin layer of oil. If necessary, the oil can be removed from the rasp with a piece charcoal and then brushed.

CUTTER

Cutter- a cutting tool with one straight, curved or shaped main cutting edge. It is used for turning, planing and grooving to obtain simple surfaces and in a number of special cases (threading, etc.). It consists of a head (carrying the cutting part) and a body (holder). According to the nature of the work performed, the cutters are divided into the following groups: for external coarse turning, for external fine turning, for transverse turning, undercutting, cutting and slotting, boring for coarse boring, boring for fine boring, shaped, threaded.

REYER

Reyer- a semicircular chisel used for rough turning of wood. Due to the grooved shape, the blade removes a sufficient layer of wood in thickness. Blade width - 3 ... 30, length - up to 300 mm. Sharpen the reyer into a semi-oval on the convex side; blade bevel angle - 25…30°. After processing the workpiece with a semicircular chisel, its surface will be rough.

RESMUS

Reismus- a tool for drawing marking lines on the workpiece parallel to the selected base line, or for transferring dimensions from drawings to the workpiece. Most often, the thickness gauge is used in carpentry and carpentry. The joiner's thickness gauge consists of a block, two (rarely one) movable bars and two or one blades that fix the bars in the block (fig.). At the end of the bars there are studs 2 ... 3 mm long, leaving thin lines - risks on the part to be marked. A hairpin can be a nail or a thin screw, sharpened so that the tip has a round or triangular, and preferably a lenticular shape. Such a point does not tear or scratch the wood, but cuts through it, leaving a thin clear line. For marking, the bars are set to the desired size, moving in the block, and fixed with a blade (or blades). When drawing lines, the block is pressed, for example, to the edge of the workpiece and the thickness gauge is pulled towards itself.

Plane- a carpentry tool designed for manual planing of wood, consisting of a wooden or metal block, a cutter (knife) and a clamping wedge.

Hand planing tools: a - wooden planer; b - metal planer; c - jointer; 1 - body; 2 - holder; 3 - letok; 4 - wedge; 5 - knife; 6 - emphasis; 7 - cork; 8 - clamp; 9- screw; 10 - handle.

All planers are divided into planers for planing flat surfaces and for planing profiled surfaces.

The planer has a wooden block, the lower part of which is called the sole. To install the knife and exit the chips in the block, a nest is provided - a notch. To get the cut chips into the notch, the sole of the block ends with a slot 5 ... 9 mm wide, called the span. The narrow slot (span) of the block allows you to get a smooth surface of the wood. To reduce the width of the span, the sole at the slot is fixed with a hardwood insert. The knife is fixed in the block with a wooden wedge resting on the shoulders of the notch of the block. The knife is tightly and evenly pressed against the block with a wedge, which allows you to get a high-quality surface. Planer knives are made of U8A or U9A steel. The front part of the block has a wooden horn, and the back part of the jointer block has a handle. The block and wedge of the planer are made of hardwood (pear, ash, maple, hornbeam, beech, white acacia, etc.). Planer pads are made of metal.

: a - block; b - planing knife; c - wedge; g - insert; 1 - shoulders; 2 - cheeks; 3 - letok; 4 - bed; 5 - sole; 6 - span (slot); 7 - handle-horn.

CHISEL

Chisel- (German Stemmeisen, from stemmen - to hammer and Eisen - iron) - a carpentry tool for gouging shallow nests and holes, removing material of small thickness (planing), cutting, etc. works.

: a - flat (blade width - 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50 mm); b - semicircular (blade width - 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40 mm).

CLAMP

Clamp- clamping device for fixing parts on a workbench, locksmith's table or in a template for carpentry, metalwork and other types of processing, when gluing wooden parts, assembling, etc. Usually the clamp is supplied with a screw device.

SUSLO

miter box- a tray consisting of a bottom and side parallel walls nailed to the bottom at right angles. The miter box is used for cutting lumber at the right angle: 1- side walls saw through to the bottom at a given angle; 2- saw the material is placed in the miter box opposite the cut; 3- insert a saw blade into the cut and cut the lumber.

Rice. Miter box for sawing at 45° and 90° angles

TESTING ELBOW

Calibration square- wooden or metal tool for marking and checking right angles, as well as for checking the mutual perpendicularity of planes. It consists of two shoulders - the base (block) and the ruler (pen), fastened at an angle of 90 °. Squares are flat without a stop, having shoulders of the same thickness, and with an emphasis (sold out) - with a wide base and a thin ruler.

LEVEL

Level- a device for checking the horizontalness of lines and surfaces and for measuring small angles of inclination. The main part of the level is a glass ampoule filled with alcohol or ether, except for a small volume (bubble). When the level is horizontal, the bubble is in the middle of the ampoule. Level - important detail astronomical, geodesic and other instruments; used in construction and mechanical engineering.

Type of planer for profile planing, designed for selecting and cleaning quarters (for sharpening folds). Falzgebel has removable stepped soles. The stepped sole of the block has a ruler on the outside that is pressed against the edge of the workpiece during planing, which determines the width of the fold. The ruler can be integral with the block of the planer or be a separate piece (made of wood or metal) screwed to the block. In this case, the width and depth of the fold (quarter) is adjusted by rearranging the ruler. The sole of the falzgebel, in contrast to the zenzubel, is stepped, its knife is oblique. cheek on right side the soles of the falzgebel limits the width of the groove, and the protrusion on the left side limits the depth of the groove. The size of the block of the standard falsetgebel is 240/30/80.

The knife is inserted into the block from below (from the side of the sole) at an angle of 45 °. Sometimes an additional knife is installed in front of the main knife. When selecting a fold, it pre-cuts the chips, thereby improving the quality of the fold processing.

Tools for profile planing: a - sampler; b - Falzgebel; in - zenzubel; g - tongue and groove; d - primer; e - shtap; g - kalevka; h - fillet; and - humpbacks with a concave and convex body.

JOINTER

Jointer- hand carpentry tools designed for final fine planing; for leveling large surfaces and for joining (fitting) individual parts. The jointer is designed as a long planer with a double knife. cycles- (from German Ziehklinge) - a hand tool for finishing and cleaning wooden products. Cycles clean the surface of hardwoods after planing with a double planer (zinubel with a double knife) or cleaning the surface of parquet floors. Cycles are made from a saw blade. Their length is 150, width 60 and thickness 1 mm. The cycles have a handle. The handle can be made from two halves fastened with screws or bolts. Cycle is inserted between the halves and clamped. The blade of the cycle is sharpened with a small file. The cutting angle of the cycles is up to 90°, allowing you to get a smooth and even surface.

Cycles should be well sharpened and edited. If the steel of the cycle is not very strong, then it is guided, i.e., burred, which removes chips more easily, but sometimes not very cleanly.

You can make a cycle from strong steel of a slightly different shape (L-shaped). Well sharpened and aimed at the whetstone, such an instrument cycles very cleanly.

Tsinubel(German Zahnhobel - beech. jagged plow) - a kind of planer for processing flat surfaces, which has a knife with a serrated blade. When replacing such a knife with a regular knife, the cynubel is used as a grinder. When planing, the cynubel leaves small grooves on the surface of the workpiece. Zinubel is used to treat already planed surfaces, which are prepared for gluing or cladding.

Zinubel is used for corrugating surfaces, which is necessary for veneering and gluing very hard woods. It is used for planing a serrated surface of hard rocks (red and especially ebony).

Zinubel is used to increase the bonding area before veneering by roughening it. Cutting angle 80°. Zinubel is a shortened planer with a single knife, if you insert a knife with a chipbreaker, it can be used to plan parts at an angle to the end of the workpiece.

SHERHEBEL

(German: Schärfhobel) - a kind of planer, designed for primary, rough planing of flat surfaces along, across and at an angle to the wood fibers. They treat the surface of wood after sawing. The blade of the sherhebel knife has an oval shape, which is why, after processing it, the wood turns out to be uneven, with traces in the form of grooves. Such a device allows you to remove a layer of up to 3 mm from a tree and planing at an angle relative to the direction of the fibers. When working with a sherhebel, the chips are thick and narrow. A knife with an oval-shaped blade, inserted into the block at an angle of 40 °, cuts thick chips. Knife width - 36 ... 40 mm.

GRINDER

sander- a planer with a shortened body, used for cleaning wood that has scuffing and tortuosity, as well as for cleaning the ends. The grinder has a narrow gap and an enlarged rake angle. With the help of a grinder, a clean planing is performed.

A manual cutting tool for fine planing of hard-to-cut wood, similar to a double planer but differs from it in a shortened block (up to 180-200 mm) and an increased additive angle, i.e., the angle of inclination of the piece of iron to the sole of the planer up to 60 degrees (cutting angle) with a width blades 45-50 mm. Schlichtube has a narrow slot (width 5 mm). The blade of his knife extends 0.5 mm beyond the sole. The grinder touches the scuffs of the fibers, the frizzy places and the ends. Removes thin chips for a good surface finish.

Has a reinforced body. The sander block is sometimes made slightly oval (boat). It cuts purely due to the large cutting angle, the presence of a chipbreaker and the small thickness of the removed layer of wood.

Shliftik: 1 - block; 2 - wedge; 3 - double knife; 4 - emphasis; 5 - cork.

SPUNTUBE

sheet pile(German Spundhobel) - hand carpentry tool - designed for sampling rectangular groove and crest at a given distance from the edge of the board. According to the width of the groove, an appropriate knife is inserted into the tongue and groove. The tongue and groove is one of the complex carpentry tools. It consists of a block with a knife, a guide bar and two bolts with nuts and locknuts. The steel sole of the tongue and groove fixed on the block fixes the depth of the groove, the size of the knife - the width of the groove. The distance of the groove from the edge of the part is regulated by two bolts, which are fixed with lock nuts. The width of the groove is 3 ... 15 mm; a federgebel is used to obtain a ridge on the edge of the part. It consists of a block and a U-shaped knife or two parallel blocks with separate knives.

The transverse groove is used for sampling grooves spike connection(dovetail) across the fibers. Preliminarily, a cut is made along the border of the grooves of the stud joints. The transverse tongue and groove has a block and a cutter in the form of a sharpened hook, fixed in the block on the side with a wedge or bolt.

Often a tongue-and-groove of a simplified design is used without an additional block (it is replaced by a protrusion with the main one). Such a tool is called a grinder.

The handle is fixed with screws. If it is necessary to increase the support area of ​​the handle, a wooden plank should be screwed to it with screws through the two holes provided for this purpose. The required knife offset relative to the base of the tongue and groove body is set by moving it forward or backward. The knife is clamped with a screw. The depth of the planed groove is set by moving the stop relative to the sole of the body and is fixed with a screw.

(from German Stangenzirkel) - a tool for measuring external and internal linear dimensions. It consists of a rod with two fixed jaws, on which a scale with millimeter divisions is applied. A frame also moves along the bar with two jaws and a rod rigidly fastened to it - a depth gauge. The vernier scale is marked on the edge of the frame. The upper limit of measurement of calipers - from 125 to 2500 mm; measurement accuracy - 0.1 or 0.05 mm. When measuring with a caliper, whole millimeters are measured directly on the rod scale to the zero stroke of the vernier, and fractional millimeters are measured on the vernier scale. In this case, the fractional value (the number of tenths of a millimeter) is determined by multiplying the reading value (0.1 mm) by the ordinal number of the stroke (not counting the zero) that coincided with the bar stroke.

Types of calipers (calipers according to GOST 166-89)

ShTs-1- vernier caliper with a double-sided arrangement of jaws for measuring external and internal dimensions and with a ruler for measuring depths.

ShTs-IC- (caliper with pointer reading) for reading indications instead of the vernier has a reading pointer head. A rack is placed in the recess of the rod, with which the gear of the head is coupled, therefore the readings of the caliper corresponding to the position of the jaws and are read on the circular scale of the head according to the position of the arrow. This is much easier, faster and less tiring for the performer than reading the vernier reading;

SCT-I- with one-sided arrangement of jaws equipped with a hard alloy for measuring outer dimensions and depths in conditions of increased abrasive wear.

ShTs-II- with double-sided arrangement of jaws for measuring external and internal dimensions and for marking. To facilitate the latter, it is equipped with a micrometric feed frame.

ShTs-III- with one-sided arrangement of jaws for measuring external and internal dimensions.

Vernier(nonius scale, nonius scale, vernier) - an auxiliary scale installed on various measuring instruments and tools, serving for more exact definition number of divisions. The principle of the scale is based on the fact that the eye notices the coincidence of divisions much more accurately than it determines the relative position of one division between others. Nonius is named after the Portuguese mathematician P. Nunes, who invented a device of a different design, but using the same principle. Modern design The scale was proposed by the French mathematician P. Vernier in 1631, after whom it is called "Vernier". The vernier scale usually has the same 10 divisions as the main scale, and is only 9 divisions long.