Why is the apple tree not growing? The apple tree has a small annual increase Apple tree seedlings do not grow

It happens that after spring planting the seedlings started to grow, but some of them almost did not grow, and the length of their shoots does not exceed 10 cm. And the summer is already ending, what's the matter?

This usually happens if the seedlings were overdried by the seller. Sometimes negligent distributors (so that they come back for a purchase again) soak the roots of seedlings in a salt solution so that they probably do not take root. Such is the cunning market know-how. But it’s too early to get upset, you need to make the roots grow back.
To do this, water the plants with Kornevin's solution. After watering the seedlings once a week. Perhaps the roots will move away or new ones will grow from the cuttings buried in the ground.
In addition to the roots, care must be taken to ensure that the shoots ripen. But top dressing under the root cannot be carried out - weak roots can get burned. Therefore, we spray the plants on the leaf with an ash extract: 0.5 kg of ash per 10 liters of water, or with superphosphate: 1 match. boxes of 10 liters of water.
If the seedlings do not rush into growth, it's okay. The main thing for us is that at least one or three first buds ripen. Then we cut the bushes for reverse growth, and on next year We're already getting some amazing growth. The main thing is that we will save the seedling, although it is a pity for the lost year.
In my practice, there were cases when I had to cover green, completely unripe seedlings for the winter.
To do this, I covered them with ashes so that they would not rot, and covered them with a cropped five liter bottle. And again covered with earth from above. As a result, the seedlings ripened right under the bottle or went into new growth in the spring without ripening at all.
It happens that the bushes suffer from high temperatures, therefore, experienced growers cover the soil under the seedlings with mowed grass and water more often with refreshing watering, soaking the soil shallowly.
It is useful to buy Aktara, dilute 4 g per 10 liters of water and pour lagging plants with this solution. It may very well be that their roots eat Khrushchev - from such watering they will lose their appetite for a long time.
The main thing is to be patient and do not remove any seedlings. It will not be possible to achieve much this year, it will be possible to try to catch up on the next one. Subscribe to our video channel on youtube

Andrey Lozovoy

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Hello Andrey. The growth of apple trees is up to 10 cm per year, plums 5 cm, cherries 10 cm. Saplings from a good nursery, the cottage itself is located on a mountain meadow. What to do?

Dmitry.

In principle, the annual growth of any plant is its passport. It can be judged by many different factors. For example, about care, soil fertility, favorable season. For example, if a tree is poorly fed, sick, the summer was cold and gloomy, then it is natural that the growth will be less. If the plant is well cared for, plus the weather is good.

As a rule, it is a combination of factors. A lot also depends on how the branch is located. If it is more vertically located, then it has more growth. The more it deviates to the horizon, the weaker the growth.

It is very important that the branches must be properly formed, that is, deflected to the sides so that they do not grow at an acute angle. Please note that for an apple tree, the greater the growth and the more vertical the branch, the less fruit buds are laid on it. It turns out that if we form a tree from vertical branches, then we do not grow fruits, but wood.

On the plum, fruit buds are laid everywhere. But still - why do we need such long vertical whips?

If the branch is lateral, then 10 cm for an apple tree is normal. If the branch is tilted at 45 degrees, then, of course, 10 cm is not enough, nothing at all. But here, too, you can’t give that so much is normal, so much is abnormal. Well, let's say, on average, I'm talking in my garden, let's just not deduce from this the theory that everyone should be like this. Let's say, on average, I have an increase of about 40 centimeters in a horizontally located branch. If it is at 45 degrees, it happens to be 70 centimeters. And if it is a vertical branch or there is a so-called spinning top, then it can generally jump out one and a half meters.

The spinning top is a fatty shoot that grows very quickly. As a rule, they are formed during improper pruning or freezing. When part of the crown is lost, that's where the top pops up. Usually their gardeners are extremely disliked. They either break them out or cut them off. It is believed that forming a normal branch from a spinning top is not very good. Moreover, fruit buds on the top are not formed. If only then this top will grow fruit in a few years, perhaps something will form there. But it is believed that it is not very good to form a perennial branch from it, because it will have reduced winter hardiness. It's not 100% proven though.

Although most gardeners are guided by the principle that tops are best removed, or not allowed to grow. But, of course, if there is a growth of 10 centimeters, most likely, this is how the factors developed. Probably, there is little sun there, the soil is very poor, the trees are thickened and maybe even sick. Because a sick tree, affected by some fungal diseases there, naturally, its growth is weak.

If your trees are already aged, then it is better to plant something new and not suffer anymore. Because putting a neglected tree in order requires a lot of effort and, as a rule, only specialists can do it.

It may make sense to start by planting new seedlings, but then it is already normal to take care of them. Make a fruit pit, fill it as it should be, plant it in the sun, water it, cut it off. So keep an eye on the annual growth - this is a great indicator of the health of the tree and how it responds to your care. Just be aware that growth can depend on many factors, including the location of the branch and its slope.

The main reasons why apple trees grow poorly:

• Unrestricted variety;
• Improper planting of a seedling;
• Incorrectly shaped crown;
• Wrong care.

When landing, remember that winter varieties trees begin to produce apples only after 7-8 years after planting a two-year-old seedling, while summer ones for 5-6 years, columnar trees bear fruit for 2-3 years, and on a dwarf rootstock - for 2 years.

Common mistakes why apple trees do not grow and what to do:

Too much penetration into the ground

Attention! The root neck of the tree should be located slightly above ground level, otherwise the bark will swell, since the trunk is not adapted to be in the soil, the tree will not bud and bear fruit.

If you still deepen the trunk too much when disembarking, then raise the apple tree or dig a hole around it.

Vertical position of branches

Apples, as a rule, are tied on branches that are located horizontally, so it should be done correctly.

In order for the branch to be positioned correctly, you can attach a small weight to the edge of the branch, then change the weight to a heavier weight.

Here you need to take your time so that the branch does not break.

Deficiency or excess of any nutrient

iron deficiency

With a lack of iron, buds may not form, the leaves turn very yellow. You can bury several rusty metal objects under the tree or spray the trunk with a solution iron sulphate (0,1%).

nitrogen deficiency

If you find that the trees branch weakly, there is no growth in the apple tree, they have shortened shoots, apples shrink and crumble, then this means that the tree does not have enough nitrogen.

The leaves may also be pale and have orange or reddish dots, then turn yellow and fall off.

Young leaves are very small, their petioles are at an acute angle from the branch, in addition a very small number of apples are tied.

Watch the video on how to prevent diseases of apple trees with minerals:

The most widely used nitrogen for apple trees:

• Ammonium sulphate (ammonium sulfate);
• Ammonium nitrate, poured with a solution of 30 g per bucket of water;
• Carbamide (urea): with a lack of nitrogen, the leaves and branches are sprayed with a solution of 20-50 g of urea per bucket of water.

excess nitrogen

With too much nitrogen applied, the leaves become dark green, the branches begin to grow actively, but the branches are soft, and the flowers are very few.

Bust nitrogen fertilizers leads to the development of chlorosis along the edges of the leaves and between the veins, brownish necrotic spots appear on the leaves, they curl.

Trees can get fungal diseases, and this may be the reason why the apple tree does not grow well. What to do in such a situation, tips on how to deal with diseases below will suggest.

Infection with basidiomycete or milky sheen.

Phosphorus deficiency

Shoots grow very slowly, they bend, old leaves of apple trees become dull, dark emerald in color, have a reddish, purple or bronze tint. Reddish and purple-brownish stripes and spots appear on the leaves. Stems, petioles and leaf veins lilac shade. The leaves become small, narrow, then dry and fall off.

Fertilizers with phosphorus:

• Phosphorite flour;
• Superphosphate is simple, if you find a lack of phosphorus, then sprinkle apple trees a solution of 300 g of superphosphate per bucket of water;
• Double superphosphate;
• Superphosphate granulated, precipitate.

Excess phosphorus

The leaves are small, dull, they curl up, growths are visible on them, the stems harden.

Zinc deficiency

This is most often manifested if trees are planted on chernozem soil with great content phosphorus.

After the buds open the growth of branches and leaves is very slow. The leaves become small, in the form of lancets, between the veins they turn white. The branches are bare, their annual growth is very small. Apples are small, they ripen very early, their taste is deteriorating. With a strong lack of zinc, the branches dry out.

For treatment very early in spring, even before the buds begin to bloom, the tree is sprayed with a 1-6% solution of zinc sulfate, if the lack of zinc is not very pronounced, then it is treated 3 times with a 0.3-0.5% solution of zinc sulfate with water, first after the buds bloom , then a week later.

Do such solution concentration in order not to burn the leaves, because of this, 3 days before treatment, test spraying is carried out on one branch.

Potassium deficiency

The leaves become pale, dull, greenish-blue. They are wrinkle, curl. Turns yellow first top part leaves, after the leaves turn yellow completely and become purple-reddish.

Useful videos

Watch video from experienced gardener about the lack of potassium in apple trees and what to do:

Watch a video about potash fertilizers:

From fertilizers containing potassium for growing trees everywhere use:

• Potassium chloride;
• Potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate).

With a lack of potassium, trees are sprayed with a solution of 100 g of potassium salt per bucket of water.

Excess potassium

Leaves with an excess of potassium become light green, spots are visible on them, they begin to grow slowly, and after dry and fall off.

lack of calcium

With a lack of calcium, the leaves first turn yellow, brownish spots form on them, their edges darken and twist. It is possible to bring the calcium content back to normal, spraying the tree with a solution of 30-40 g of calcium chloride in a bucket of water(10 l).

Diseases and insects

Carefully examine the branches and leaves to detect possible pests and diseases.

More than 20 types harmful insects live in apple trees.

Why doesn't the apple tree grow in height?

The most common reason is that soil and climatic conditions are not suitable for the tree.

Attention! If groundwater is closer than 1 m, then the apple tree may die from excess moisture. But this can be avoided, pouring a hill 1.5 m high for planting. It is also advised to choose seedlings that have undersized or medium-sized (clonal) stocks, their roots can more easily withstand excess moisture.

Still has a strong effect on the harvest terrain influence. Apple trees should not be planted in a lowland.

Before planting seedlings, trees and bushes growing near should be treated from pests, the trunks should be whitewashed.

It is not advised to plant young apple trees in the area where the previous apple tree died.

Agronomists determined that the reason for this is earth fatigue, although the soil may have enough necessary fertilizers, but it is not suitable due to toxins that accumulate in the branches and leaves left over from the previous tree.

Therefore, after uprooting the stump, this the place is sown with clover, fescue. A year later, the soil is dug up, and next spring green manure is sown: rapeseed, mustard, and apple trees are planted only for 4 years.

But you can do it differently - partially replace the soil.

Dig a hole with a diameter of 0.7 m and a depth of 1 m. Put fresh earth in the hole, which was at a distance of 15 m from the hole and the old tree. Add organic matter to the soil. Then you can immediately plant a young seedling in the hole.

When its roots grow and go beyond the renewed soil, then toxins are already decomposed.

Apple tree does not grow after pruning

When you produce then remember that with hard pruning of several skeletal branches the tree will recover and therefore lag behind in growth.

Do complex fertilizer, to avoid this.

Why don't apple trees grow in different types of soil?

H and clay soil

On heavy clay soil, apple trees do not grow well and get sick more often. This is due to the fact that in such a land oxygen does not enter the roots of trees, in such soil is not enough nutrients , water stagnation is formed in it.

But this can be fixed:

To prevent groundwater from getting to the apple tree, dig a hole wide and shallow in depth. If you have clay soil, it is best dig a hole size 0.8-1 × 0.5 m.

Thoroughly tamp the bottom of the pit, coat the side walls with wet clay with a layer of 2-3 cm. After that, leave the pit for the clay to dry. If a clay coating cracked, then spray the walls with water from a spray bottle.

Do not fill the hole with soil taken out of it.

Ennoble the earth, add to the hole:

• 3-4 buckets of rotted compost or humus, black soil;
• 2-3 buckets of peat land;
• 2-3 buckets of sand;
• 2-3 cups of ash;
• 1 glass of superphosphate.

Mix the composition. Build a drain at the bottom. Pour a layer of 10-15 cm of fine gravel with a fraction of 20-40 mm or pebbles, broken bricks.

Plant an apple tree the right way. Fill the hole with a mound of previously made nutrient soil. In the center, place a stake having a height of 1.8-2.2 m and a thickness of 5-8 cm.

Before planting, water the seedling abundantly or soak it in water. Plant a seedling, it may have heavily intertwined roots, so the tree will not grow, carefully straighten the roots, place them on the sides of the hill, they should not be bent, but should be directed vertically.

Fill the seedling with nutrient soil, shake it and pour water so that there are no voids near the roots. And then pour plenty of water. At seedlings that are 1 year old, the grafting site should be located above the ground!

Dig a groove around the tree to allow excess water, fill it with sand or small stones.

Watch a video from professionals on how to plant an apple tree:

on peat

Peat may be different, but any peat lacks nutrients: potassium, phosphorus, copper, magnesium and others. Peat can be low-lying, transitional, high-moor.

High-moor peat has high acidity, which is unsuitable for growing apple trees. Therefore, peat must be limed, that is, added slaked lime, dolomite flour, ground limestone, marl, chalk, ash.

It all depends on the level of acidity, which required to be measured with special instruments.

If you have acidic peat land, then add 6 kg of ground limestone per 10 m², if medium acid, then 3 kg, if slightly acid, then 1 kg.

If the peat bog is close to neutral in acidity, then lime is not applied.

Important! Lime is not advised to be added to the soil simultaneously with phosphorus and ammonia forms of nitrogen supplements.

Watch a video on how to determine the acidity of the soil and deoxidize it:

Sand and clay should be added to peat, they will increase soil thermal conductivity, accelerate its thawing in the spring, enhance warming.

Clay must be added as a dry powder.

• If the peat is highly decomposed, then 3 buckets of sand and 1.5 buckets of clay in the form of a powder are poured into 1 m²;
• If the peat is slightly decomposed, then 3.5 buckets of sand and 2 buckets of clay.

When digging the soil to a depth of 15 cm, manure is also scattered, chicken manure, humus per 1 m², and also mineral fertilizers: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of double granular superphosphate and 2.5 tbsp. tablespoons of potassium, in addition, add copper.

What kind of soil does apple trees grow on?

Apple trees do not grow well on sandstones, sandy loams and loams, as there is not enough organic matter in the soils that trees need to grow.

In loamy soils usually there is an excess of moisture, it stagnates in upper layers, and in sandstones - its disadvantage. If there is little snow in winter, then on such lands the roots of trees freeze.

To plant apple trees in such lands, need to dig holes, having a depth of 1.5 m and a diameter of 1.5 m, 15-20 cm of clay are placed on their bottom, and then covered with peat or chernozem, mixing them with clay soil.

Planting an apple tree in the ground.

If you want to plant a seedling immediately after digging a hole, then after 2 weeks add more earth, as it will settle by 10-15 cm.

Why don't apple seedlings grow?

When you buy seedlings, ask where did they come from.

If you buy a seedling grown in the south and plant it in the northern region, then it will not grow and will die in 4-5 years without bearing fruit.

So choose seedlings suitable for your area. They must be healthy, with well-developed rhizomes.

It is best to purchase seedlings that are 1-3 years old, because if you plant older trees, they will be sick for several years, they will need to restore the roots and they can dry out.

If you planted an apple tree, but it does not grow, check if you planted it there, where the apple tree died earlier.

If there are adult apple trees on the site, then cut off all the dry branches from them, clean them from old bark and whiten.

Disinfect ulcers with 0.3% solution blue vitriol and cover with garden pitch. Remove dead trees and stumps.

After planting the seedlings, whitewash their trunks with chalk. Correctly form crowns.

The apple tree does not grow for the second year: reasons

The main reason is unsuitable soil and climate.

Your site may have too close to ground water surface. If so, then plant fruit trees, pouring high beds-hills. For such areas, it is best to purchase dwarf apple trees, since their roots are shallow.

Important! Trees do not grow well on sandy loam and sand, they have very little organic matter and insufficient moisture. In such areas, during winter without snow, the roots of apple trees freeze slightly.

Therefore, for planting they dig deeper holes, having a diameter of 1.5 m and a depth of 1.2 m, black soil, peat, humus, and clay are poured into it. If you have such a land, then get apple trees on vigorous rootstocks.

Choose only high-quality regional seedlings.

Second common cause - low-quality or unsuitable seedlings. Choose varieties that are zoned, without drying tops, that look healthy, have a well-developed root system. It is best to grow them near the place of your future planting.

Third reason- apple trees are sick or affected by pests. Maybe the ground was already contaminated. Because of this, burn all plant debris, treat plantings with fungicides.

Fourth reason- when planting an apple tree, do not deepen the root neck.

The apple tree does not grow for the third year: why?

If a young apple tree does not grow, why does this happen? The tree may not grow at all or grow poorly for many reasons.

Why do not apple trees grow on a dwarf rootstock?

For dwarf apple trees, it differs slightly from caring for tall varieties, so the reasons why dwarf apple trees do not grow are almost the same.

• First, unsuitable soils and climate;
• Secondly, low-quality seedlings;
• Thirdly, non-compliance with phytosanitary standards.

But when planting such apple trees, one must take into account that these trees are more demanding on the land and growth conditions than ordinary ones.

Differences between ordinary trees and undersized The fact is that in tall trees the roots go deep into the ground, and in trees with a dwarf stock, the roots are located close to the surface, that is, in the upper layer of the earth, which can quickly freeze and has an unstable water regime.

Trees on a dwarf rootstock should be planted exclusively in fertile soils and avoid lowlands where cold air collects.

Trees on a dwarf rootstock.

When you choose a place to plant a low-growing apple tree, you need to take into account that there is enough moisture, but there was no stagnation, it is better to prefer the southern part of the site for planting, plant apple trees away from other trees and shrubs.

A dwarf apple tree needs to be carefully looked after, fed, sprayed from diseases and pests.

Why don't columnar apple trees grow up?

The difference between the columnar apple tree from the usual one in that it almost does not form side branches and it grows vertically upwards. Her flower buds appear on the annelids (short shoots with underdeveloped lateral buds) and spears (short branches that end in a bud).

Attention! The reason for stopping the growth of a columnar apple tree may be poor-quality seedlings and the wrong choice of site.

When buying, choose those varieties that are zoned for your area, the seedling must be grafted onto a clonal dwarf stock, otherwise the apple tree will not grow and bloom.

Such an apple tree does not tolerate drafts at all, it is very capricious, so it can be planted along the walls in the south.

In the absence of sufficient lighting, the tree is stretched, because of this, the place should be well lit.

Besides, columnar apple tree needs warm earth . Therefore, in the spring, 3 weeks before planting the seedlings, dig holes 50x50x50, observing an indent of 1 m between the holes.

To keep the soil warm enough, place empty and capped plastic bottles at the bottom of the pit.

Then pour compost into the hole with a mound and lay grass, leaves in layers, alternating with cardboard, branches, paper.

When planting, place the seedling on a mound, carefully straighten the rhizome, the root neck should be slightly above the ground, fill the hole, compact the soil and pour 2 liters of water under the seedling.

Conclusion

Remember that in order for your apple trees grew vigorously and thrived, it is necessary to purchase high-quality zoned seedlings, prepare a place for planting them, and properly care for the trees.

In contact with

Often, gardeners note that apple trees stop growing, and some fruit trees and completely die. There can be many reasons for this phenomenon, ranging from climatic to improper care for landings.

Causes poor growth apple trees

The most common reason is unsuitable soil and climatic conditions to which young trees cannot adapt. In areas where groundwater is too close to the surface of the earth, it will not be possible to grow an apple orchard if you do not build bulk hills about 1.5 m high. In addition, you need to buy seedlings on undersized or medium-sized rootstocks - their root system to a lesser extent suffers from excess moisture.
Sandy, super sandy and loamy soils are unfavorable for growing apple trees and other fruit trees. They are poor organic matter needed for growth. In loamy areas there is an excessive amount of moisture, which stagnates in the upper layers, and in sandy areas there is a lack of water. In addition, in little snow and frosty winters the root system of trees may die, despite the fact that the trunk has been insulated.

To grow apple trees on infertile soils, you need to dig holes 1.5 meters deep, pour 15-20 cm of clay into the bottom, and fill the hole itself with peat or black soil. If you are going to plant a tree immediately after preparing the pit, then in a couple of weeks add the earth, as the soil will settle by 10-15 cm.

Failure to comply with phytosanitary standards can also adversely affect the growth of apple trees. It is not recommended to plant young trees in the place where the previous one died for any reason. Before planting young plants growing nearby, it is necessary to treat them from pests, whiten the trunks to the first fork of the branches. If the soil is infertile, it does not hurt to apply a small amount of non-aggressive fertilizer.
Too much fertilizer can kill young plantings. If you have fertile soil, fertilization can be waived.
How to choose seedlings

Sometimes the cause of all failures can be poor quality planting material. Do not buy varieties that are unsuitable for climate zone- they can get sick, not grow or even freeze out. It is best to contact a local nursery that has been selling seedlings for several years.
It is undesirable to buy seedlings from private traders - they can sell varieties of apple trees that do not take root in the conditions of Siberia and the Urals.
When choosing young trees, pay special attention to the root system - it must be well developed. There should be no damage, putrefactive spots on the roots or trunk of seedlings. The stronger the tree, the faster it will take root and begin to bear fruit.

Let's try to make them "visible". And here are the three main ones. The first is that the soil and climatic conditions of the site are not suitable for growing garden plants. The second is poor-quality planting material or inconsistency of varieties and breeds for growing in this area. And the third is non-compliance with what bureaucrats call phytosanitary standards.

Conditions

If groundwater is close (about 1 m or closer), then it is problematic to grow a garden in such areas. Although our ancestors managed to grow apple trees in such places, filling planting hills 1-1.5 m high. For modern summer residents, we can safely recommend this method of planting and seedlings on undersized or medium-sized (clonal) rootstocks, in which the root system suffers less from wetting than others. For most fruit trees finding seedlings on clonal rootstocks is not a problem - these are apple, plum, cherry, sweet cherry. However, most pears are grafted onto seed (strong) rootstocks, and therefore for such plants it is better to choose the highest place and fill the planting hill with at least 1.5 m.

Sandy and sandy soils are also unfavorable for growing gardens: they are poor in organic matter and poorly retain moisture. On such soils, in frosty winters with little snow, the roots of the trees will freeze. You can deal with such "negativity". digs landing pit 1.2-1.5 m in diameter and 1.2 m deep. 10-15 cm of clay is placed at the bottom of the pit, and the pit is filled with black soil or peat mixed with clay soil in a ratio of 1:1. After the hole settles in 2-3 weeks, a tree can be planted in it. By the way, if you have "sands", then prefer vigorous rootstocks.

Except ground water the topography of the site greatly affects the growth and yield of the garden. Lowland is by no means what we need.

Suitable crops and seedlings

When looking at seedlings, ask where they were brought from. "Southerners" dismiss immediately, even if they are tall, spectacular and inexpensive. As soon as the plant moves to more severe conditions for it, it stops growing and dies after 4-5 years without bearing fruit. So the main selection criteria are as follows: regionalization for your site, no signs of disease, a well-developed root system, no necrosis at the base of the trunk (root collar area), no drying tops, one-, two- or three-year-olds.

The fashion to plant mature fruit trees (5-7 years of age and older is more than doubtful. The older the tree, the more difficult it is to take root (even with a large clod of earth). And in the next year or even several years, such trees, as a rule, " get sick, "restore the lost roots. Even if the fruits are formed, the next fruiting can be expected for several years, unless the tree, exhausted after such a test, dries up until the next spring.

Firstly, seedlings cannot be planted in the same seat where an old fruit tree previously grew, especially if it died.

Secondly, if there are older fruit trees on the site, then they need to remove all dried branches and branches with dead sections of bark. Clean and whitewash the stamps. It is better to clean ulcers on skeletal ones to a “living place”, disinfect with a 0.3% solution of copper sulfate and cover with garden pitch. Dead trees or their stumps should not be left on the site.

After planting young seedlings, you can also whitewash the base of the trunk to the first fork. Proper shaping and pruning can speed up the long-awaited harvest. When young trees begin to bear fruit, increase pest and disease control. It is also impossible to allow excessive thickening of the crown. And do not "cut" the garden in the fall - only in the spring, in clear and dry weather.