Spring protection of garden plants from pests and diseases. Proper pruning of indoor plants

Have you recently planted plants, or has your garden already grown so much that it resembles a dense jungle? Regardless of the density of your thickets garden trees and shrubs require pruning: light or thorough. And now, armed with a pruner, you go "to work." This is where a dilemma awaits beginner gardeners. How to cut plants so as not to disturb their growth and give the site a decorative effect?

What you need to know when pruning garden ornamental plants

All plant care activities are usually carried out calmly. They planted. But here's the cropping ... More than once read, heard, everything seems to be clear. They approached a tree or a bush and were dumbfounded. I don't have the courage to cut the branch. You can't sew back. Why is this happening? Perhaps because the rules for pruning trees and shrubs are quite simple, and the natural forms of plants are much more complicated than in the picture. Well, is it before or currant, or forsythia? Since they are not fruitful, they grow and bloom well, they can not be cut off - many people think so.

However, to create beautiful abundantly flowering forms ornamental woody plants also need to be pruned. What you need to know in order to safely trim ornamental plants?

Plants are arranged in such a way that, starting from the opening of the kidneys and until the end of the season, they are freed from some structural parts. Remember how many bud scales and flower catkins can be seen in the spring under the poplar, literally the earth is covered with a yellow-green carpet of honey locust flowers. Fruits fall off, “forests clad in crimson and gold” part with their autumn dress, harsh winds pluck dried branches. This is natural pruning. woody plants. A person only accelerates and corrects natural physiological processes, reducing the length of the shoot, reduces the consumption nutrients on the laying of flower buds, thereby excluding further shedding of the ovary, i.e. saves building material for the plant.

Depending on the type and condition of the plant, the degree of pruning ornamental trees and shrubs can be different, from removing faded buds and dry shoots to cutting the plant to a stump.

Apical or apical buds are known to produce elongated shoots that grow faster than side shoots. This is explained by the presence more growth substances (auxins) at the top of the shoot, rather than near the lateral buds. Auxins, which are synthesized in the roots, rise to the kidneys. In the case when the apical bud is removed, the amount of auxins intended for it falls into the uppermost lateral bud. It begins to function as an apical one, i.e. grow faster. This is the basis for cropping.

It should be noted that in nature the principle "apical shoot - elongated, lateral - shortened" is not always observed. In addition, the difference between elongated and shortened shoots is not clear. We accept a conditionally short shoot - less than 5 cm, and an elongated one - more than 5 cm.

In addition, with the opposite arrangement of the kidneys, the growth has a forked character, as, for example, in lilac and action. By removing one shoot, we get a one-sided and stronger growth of another shoot.

Depending on where the kidney is directed after the cut, the shoot will grow in one direction or another: inside the crown, out of the crown, to the right or left. Before making a cut when pruning garden plants, a kidney is selected, the desired length of the shoot and its direction are determined. The cut must be made with such an inclination and at such a height that the part of the shoot that remains up to the bud does not interfere with the normal growth of the young shoot and does not lead to the death of the buds.

In addition to clearly visible buds, there are so-called dormant buds, which have growth tissues embedded under the cortex; under certain circumstances, in particular the removal of the upper part of the shoot, dormant buds can produce quite strong growth.

In the recommendations for pruning ornamental plants, the expression “pruning for 2-3 buds” is used, which means leaving part of the shoot with 2-3 buds on the plant, and removing the rest.

It is believed that a cut made unevenly when pruning trees and shrubs can cause decay and the spread of infection. Therefore, when planting, the dangling parts of the roots are cut off and the entire pruning is made with a very sharp tool. The diseased branch is cut closer to the healthy one, and it is advisable not to leave knots. If the cut is more than 2 cm in diameter, it is smeared with garden pitch.

In order not to be tormented by thoughts - whether or not to remove a thick branch, and it was not so difficult physically, it is necessary to form plants in early age. At this time, it is enough to remove a 2-3 cm shoot with your hands or cut longer shoots with secateurs. It is at an early age that plants form a skeleton that will carry leaves, flowers and fruits throughout their lives. Therefore, it is important that it be powerful.

In shrubs, the skeleton is not permanent. Therefore, the main task is to create the shape of the plant. After reaching certain form trees and shrubs, some of them can be left uncut or only cosmetic pruning can be done. In cases where plants are formed in the form or decorative forms they get cut off all the time.

Be sure to know the time of laying generative buds. In some species, they are formed in the summer a year before flowering, in others - in the year of flowering on grown shoots.

In the first case, when pruning plants in the garden in winter time or in early spring(during dormancy) remove the shoot with flower buds. The result is more large flowers and fruits, the growth of shoots can be enhanced, and after two years abundant flowering is obtained.

In the second case, dormant pruning does not remove flower buds. Additional nutrition will be used for the growth of shoots, for the laying of generative buds, for increasing the size of flowers, for abundant flowering in the same year, and possibly for increasing yields. Thus, pruning during the dormant period gives abundant flowering: in the first case - in the second year, in the second case - in the same year.

In addition, flower buds, depending on the type of plant, are laid in the apical or lateral buds. Plants that bloom at the tops of the shoots are pruned after flowering.

Another rule "weak growth - strong pruning, strong growth- easy pruning. In order for the tree not to be one-sided, it is necessary to cut off the side where the weak shoots are. And where a long branch has grown, cut off no more than 1/3 of the shoot.

Pruning is carried out not only to maintain a certain volume of the crown, to enhance flowering, but also to increase frost resistance. Depending on the growth rate of shoots, i.e. slowly or fast growing plants, the frequency of pruning and the length of the shoots is set.

How to prune climbing plants

And how to prune plants that curl on supports? Pruning methods and timing climbing plants depend on the age of the shoots on which flowering occurs. On this basis, loaches can be divided into three groups.

1. Pruning climbing plants that bloom on shoots current year, is reduced to the removal of shoots during the dormant period. If the plants of the first group are not pruned, then in the first year they will bloom on last year's shoots, and then, in the second year of the foundation of the shoots, they will become bare and will bloom only on the tops of the shoots.

2. The second group of powerful climbing plants. These flowers grow so fast that pruning is uneconomical. The shoots are sent to a free large area, which they subsequently braid.

3. The third group includes plants with repeated flowering. A bush is formed according to the same rules as the clematis of the first group. The stems of adult plants are shortened to 30 cm from the ground. On cut stems, strong shoots appear, which grow rapidly and flowers open on them at the end of summer. Anti-aging pruning is carried out on plants that grow close to the stem.

Most gardeners prune their plants in autumn period, however, there are plants that retain foliage and in winter season, especially those that grow in warm regions with a mild climate.

Such plants are pruned in the spring. However, both in the middle and in the northern strip of Russia there are plants that are preferable to cut off after winter and there are many reasons for this.

The following list of plants that are best pruned in spring is advisory nature plants. There are also exceptions. Any plant that is sick, infected, or in bad condition, should be pruned from autumn.

Asters

Asters that bloom in autumn are cut several times. In their last bloom, they want to be left alone until spring. Pruning late autumn Not recommended.

Astilba (Astilbe)

Unpretentious, but autumn pruning can lead to a decrease in the frost resistance of the plant. In spring, minimal pruning is required.

Carnation (Dianthus)

Carnations can be trimmed in any season, but a little pruning in the spring will still be required in the autumn.

Delphinium (Delphinium)

If you are lucky and you are the owner of this beautiful plant, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage until spring.

Bluebell (Campanula)

Pruning of bluebells is carried out throughout the season to remove faded and unaesthetic foliage, and provoke a new wave of flowering. Fresh leaves at the end of autumn are left for the whole winter.

Lupine (Lupinus)

Lupine is a thermophilic perennial. He does not like cold weather, so leave it uncut for the winter for additional protection.

Hosta

Although the hosta does not look aesthetically pleasing in winter period time, the leaves left on it will help protect some varieties from frost.

Chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum)

Leave foliage to protect the stem of the plant. It is best to leave the buds to bloom until late autumn without pruning.

Source: vse-dlya-zhenschin.ru

Perennial phloxes have become very popular in creating modern landscapes and flower beds due to their frost resistance, unpretentiousness in growing and a variety of flower colors. Despite their resistance to frost, these perennial flowers should be cut off for the winter, since in frosts after warming or if there is little snow in winter, they may die.

In this article, we will consider why, when and how to properly prune phlox after flowering.

Why prune phlox in the fall?

In order to avoid fungal diseases and the appearance of pests, on new trunks grown in spring, as a lot of fungal accumulates on the shoots remaining since autumn, and between them at a height of 10-20 cm pest insects hibernate.
To keep phloxes healthy, it is recommended to carry out in the fall preventive treatment fungicides and soil mulching with peat, humus or compost, and the remaining trunks will interfere with this.
In winter and early spring, the flower bed will have a neater appearance, and nothing will interfere with the emergence of new shoots.
To accumulate more useful substances in the roots of flowers, necessary for the beginning of growth in the spring.
To prevent the roots from being exposed, as the phlox rhizome grows upwards, and this can lead to their freezing.
To prevent the development of weaker shoots, only if propagation material is not required.

When should I prune phlox for the winter?

It is recommended to prune phlox bushes in the fall, after flowering ends, approximately from the end of September to the end of October, when all the nutrients accumulated in the plant go to the root and the soil begins to freeze. Pruning must be completed before permanent cold weather, in different zones it is different: it can be both in October and in November.

Some gardeners recommend pruning in early spring (especially in areas with little snowy winters), since the ground part of the bush (stems) will be needed to collect snow over phlox in winter, because. in northern regions he is the best protection from frost, and in the south - contributes to an increase in soil moisture. In such cases, it is impossible to compact the snow near the bushes.

How to cut phlox?

The process of autumn pruning consists of pruning itself, top dressing and mulching the ground around the bush, differing only in the materials used.

1. Trimming

There are several options for trimming phlox:

level with the ground - to avoid the preservation of infections and pests;
leaving 5-10 cm above the ground - to retain snow, in case of little snow or when landing in a windy area.

After pruning, all residues (stems, leaves) should be collected and burned, as fungal spores, foci of diseases and pests can remain on them. The base of the bush and the soil around it should be treated with fungicides against diseases.

2. Top dressing

In the already frozen ground, under each flower bush, pour 1 tablespoon of superphosphate or another mineral fertilizer. At the same time, it is recommended to add ash to the ground, which is used both as a fertilizer and to repel pests.

3. Mulching

It is carried out 10 days after treatment. For this you can use:

dry peat,
humus;
fallen leaves with a layer of 5-10 cm (when the snow melts, it should be removed immediately);
well-rotted compost.

Such soil mulching will give in the spring extra food plants.

Properly done autumn pruning and subsequent mulching of the ground near the phlox bush makes it possible to grow healthy and lush bushes that will decorate your garden for a long time.

Flowering worsens

A living organism is characterized by the desire to leave offspring. When seeds are formed in place of a flower, they become a priority for the plant, it is on them that the maximum energy is spent. By cutting off fading flowers, we stimulate the plant to form new buds, new flower stalks. Well, if fruits have formed, seeds have begun to ripen, this often serves as a signal: the program has been completed, no more flowers are needed, all the forces are for procreation.

once flowering plants(for example, and others) timely pruning fading inflorescences are able to bloom again at the end of the season. (and most others flowering shrubs), pruning lays the foundation for good flowering next season. If you are not too lazy to remove wilted flowers, the plant will bush better and bloom more profusely. This procedure prolongs the flowering period.

Diseases develop

hot weather

rainy summer

favorable environment

Resources are wasted

Self-seeding possible

Turkish cloves

decorative bow

When and how to prune

What exactly to prune - the plant itself will tell you: each has its own structure, and hence its own pruning features. For example, in delphinium, aquilegia and other cultures that form high flower stalks, they are cut out at the base; in petunias, the shoot is pinched off directly under the withered flower; flower stalks and cut off above the first leaf.

When to prune - depends on the characteristics of the plant, and on your capabilities. If you come to the dacha only on weekends, a daily inspection of flower beds is clearly not your case. It happens that even once a week it is not possible to prune for some reason.

Yes, it's not very good. But it’s always better to focus on what you can do than to suffer because you still can’t change. Remove wilted flowers as often as conditions permit. If there is very little time to care for flower beds, plant those crops for which rare or untimely pruning is not critical. Remember: we plant a garden to please us, and not to add trouble to ourselves.

Is it possible to do without pruning?

Panicles of faded astilbes are attractive in their own way - we will remove them in the fall, when we start pruning perennials for the winter. Do not require haste and some - for example, eryngium or ornamental cereals.

In and in winter bouquets, fluffy balls remaining after the petals have flown around are used - seed pods on high peduncles. In the lunnik (lunaria), flowers are not of particular interest at all - translucent partitions are decorative, left over from fully ripe fruit pods.

Lunnik, or Lunaria- beautiful not in bloom, but after fruit ripening

AT autumn garden dry inflorescences of some plants can even play a solo part. Do not rush to cut them - read the article first If we need plant seeds, wilted flowers, of course, do not cut

At the end of the season, we will stop removing withering calendula flowers, and other plants that we want to propagate with our seeds. But be careful if you do not want self-sowing propagation - collect ripe seeds on time.

As you can see, there are many options to minimize the mandatory pruning of withered inflorescences. If there is no time for this time-consuming procedure, choose crops that do not require regular care. When planning flower beds, always take into account the nuances of caring for the selected plants and correlate them with your capabilities - then your garden will always be beautiful and well-groomed, and you will not have to spend extra time and strength.

Every lover of indoor flowers dreams of his plants looking beautiful, well-groomed and regularly pleasing abundant flowering. The main rule in achieving this goal is the correct pruning, which contributes not only to flowering, but also abundant growth plants. Also, pruning is carried out in order to rejuvenate the flower and form a beautiful crown.
When carrying out this procedure, it must be remembered that any flower best tolerates pruning with the onset of warm spring months. After winter dormancy, the flower will favorably accept pruning, as a result of which the proper result will be achieved. Excellent result those who plan the growth of the shoots not inward reach, it is recommended to trim the pruning over the leaf directed outward. The cut is made above the kidney, as if to the side, obliquely.
Sometimes a flower requires sanitary pruning of leaves. To do this, all yellowed leaves must be cut off. All shoots that have lost their decorative value become pathogens. various diseases plants, also insect pests can gather at this place or mushrooms can be bred. Quite often, a yellowed shoot does not indicate old age, but the spread of the disease, without warning which you can get a completely diseased flower in the future, sanitary pruning will help save the plant. The main rule in such pruning is to cut to a green stem.
Anti-aging pruning is used to stop the plant from shedding leaves, for many reasons. With such pruning, it is desirable to remove the shoot almost to the very base, however, two or three buds should be left. Such an action will help the plant with renewed vigor to grow more intensively in the future. Anti-aging pruning is done before the rapid growth of the plant. Flower growers recommend feeding the flower after the cut, this will allow new strong and strong shoots to grow.
Formative pruning of the plant is advised to be done very carefully, difficult process requires careful and professional approach, as a result of which the plant will receive the desired shape. This type applicable for indoor plants, which have a tall appearance, branching, etc. When starting to form pruning, it is necessary to determine the direction of growth of the shoots, for example, with a horizontal branch, its upper bud goes down. When the goal is the vertical growth of the plant, then the kidney goes up, the cut is made above it. Using wire to guide the growth of branches often does not give the desired result. There is an opinion that the younger the branch of a plant, the easier it is to direct it for future growth.

It is best to buy flowers in buds: they will open themselves already at home in a vase and will last longer. Even when choosing a bouquet, you should pay attention that the buds are not covered with an elastic band, this indicates that the flowers are artificially prevented from opening. Well, if in front of you they began to mechanically open a still unopened bud, for example, an iris, then you should also think about the professionalism of such florists.

pack a bouquet

In early March, it is still cold outside, so when buying flowers, ask them to be wrapped in thick paper, cellophane or newspaper. This is also necessary in order for them to better survive transportation in a car, and even more so in public transport.

And when the bouquet hits warm room, do not rush to unpack: let the flowers stand for about five minutes, get used to the heat, then they can be unfolded.

Properly prepare a vase of water

It is advisable to rinse the vase thoroughly before placing flowers in it so that there is no dust and bacteria left in it - all this can negatively affect the condition of the flowers. Only after that you can pour water for flowers.

Water for flowers should be fresh and clean. Tap water will also work, but it is desirable that it settles a little. But the temperature of the water depends on what flowers are in the bouquet. In most cases, water will do. room temperature. Wherein spring flowers such as tulips, daffodils, crocuses, irises, love cold water, and to make the flowers stand longer - you can put ice cubes in the vase.

Too much water should not be poured into the vase. For example, about five centimeters will be enough for tulips, and even less for gerberas, the stem should be lowered into the water by no more than 3-4 centimeters. It is very important that the water is clean.

How to prune flowers

Before you put the flowers in a vase, they must be trimmed. Moreover, it is best to do this not with scissors, but sharp knife. Florists cut flowers with a special secateurs. How more area water absorption, the better, so you need to cut the stem at an angle of 45 degrees, and it is advisable to do the pruning under running water or by lowering the stems into a container of water.

At the bottom of the stem, there should not be leaves or shoots, if any - it is better to cut them off so that they do not rot, so the flowers will last longer.

How to care for flowers in a vase

Refresh water and cut flowers preferably daily. There are some subtleties in caring for different colors. For example, the water of hyacinths and daffodils should be changed an hour after they were placed in a vase. Gerberas will last longer if the stem is cut short. And it’s generally better not to cut chrysanthemums with a knife, since these flowers do not like metal, you can simply break the stem with your hands, and if a characteristic crunch is heard, then the flower is fresh and will last for a long time.

How to extend the life of a bouquet

It is also important where to put the vase. You should not leave flowers in a draft or too close to the battery - most of all, roses do not like this. It is also better to avoid places where direct Sun rays, especially if you have a mixed bouquet of different colors because flowers react differently in the sun. So, tulips tend to sharply reach for the light and can open up too quickly and grow noticeably relative to other flowers in just a day or two.

Also, to care for flowers, you can use "top dressing", for example, krizal fertilizer or simple sugar. Flowers quickly get used to this, so you need to do this regularly.

By the way, if you brought flowers home, and they began to fade, then most likely, in the store, to preserve freshness, the bouquet was “kept” for top dressing. This is usually done in one-day shops that appear for the holidays, and in good florist shops there are other ways to maintain flowers, for example, maintaining a comfortable temperature and humidity regime for them.

How to revive flowers

You can also use some tricks to freshen up the flowers if they have drooped at home. If roses or other double flowers (peonies, anemones) lower their heads, you can wrap the buds with damp paper and put them in a cold room for 2-3 hours. Mimosa can be revived with steam, the main thing is not to overdo it and not burn the plant, namely “steam off”, then it will “rise” before our eyes, the expert advises.

Anthers can be removed from a lily as soon as they ripen, so the pollen will not get dirty, and the flower will last longer. To prevent tulips from opening ahead of time, you can carefully put a little sugar or powdered sugar on the pistil of the flower. The tree-like stalk of lilac can be split a little or cut at the end and put in hot water for half an hour to an hour until cool, then cut again and put in fresh water at room temperature.

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