How to make a powerful stationary stun gun with your own hands. How to make a shocker at home. Powerful electric shock with your own hands. spark gap and other parts

stun gun- the device is very useful, but what is sold in the store will not protect you in real "combat" situations. It is worth recalling once again that according to GOST, civilians (mere mortals) cannot wear and use electroshock devices whose power exceeds 3 watts. This is ridiculous power, which is only enough to scare away dogs and drunken drunks, but not for defense.
The electroshock device must have high efficiency to protect its owner in any situation, but alas, there are none in the store.

So what to do in this case? The answer is simple - to assemble a stun gun with your own hands at home. Some of you may be wondering: is it safe for attackers? It's safe if you know what to collect. In this article, we will offer a shocker that has a titanic output power of 70 watts (130 watts peak) and can lay down any person in a split second.

In the passport data of industrial electroshock devices, you can see the parameter - EFFECTIVE EXPOSURE TIME. This time depends on the power. For regular 3-watt shockers, the exposure time is 3-4 seconds, but of course no one has yet been able to hold it for 3 seconds, because due to the negligible output power, the attacker will quickly figure out what the matter is and attack again. In this situation, your life will be in jeopardy, and if there is nothing to defend yourself, then the consequences can be tragic.

Let's move on to assembling a stun gun with our own hands. But first, I want to say that this material is presented on the network for the first time, the content is completely copyrighted, thank you good friend Evgeny for the suggestion to use a push-pull multiplier in the high-voltage part. The series multiplier (often used in shockers) has a rather low efficiency, in which case the power is transferred to the body of the attacker without much loss.

Below are the main parameters of the stun gun:

Rated output power	70 watts
Maximum output power	100 watts
Peak output power	130 watts
Output voltage on arresters	35000 Volts
Sparking frequency	1200 Hz
Distance between output electrodes	30 mm
Maximum air breakdown	45 mm
Flashlight	It has
Fuse	It has
Nutrition	battery (LI-po 12V 1200mA)

inverter

A powerful push-pull inverter circuit was used using N-channel power keys. Such a circuit of a simple multivibrator has a minimum number of components and “eats” a current of up to 11 Amperes, and after replacing the transistors with more powerful ones, the consumption increased to 16 Amperes - a lot for such a compact inverter.

But if there is such a powerful converter, then an appropriate power source is needed. A few weeks ago, two sets of lithium-polymer batteries were ordered at an ebay auction, the capacity of which is 1200mA at 12 volts. Later, I managed to dig up some data about these batteries on the net. One of the sources reported that the short circuit current of these batteries is 15 Amperes, but then from more reliable sources it became clear that the short circuit current reaches up to 34 Amperes !!! Wild batteries with a fairly compact size. It should be noted that 34 A is a short-term output short-circuit current.

After choosing a power source, you need to start assembling the stuffing of the stun gun.

In the inverter, you can use field-effect transistors IRFZ44, IRFZ46, IRFZ48, you can use more powerful ones - IRL3705, IRF3205 (namely last option used by me).

The pulse transformer was wound on a core from 50 watts. Such Chinese transformers are designed to power 12-volt halogen lamps and cost pennies (just over $1).

The primary winding is wound immediately with 5 wires of 0.5 mm wire (each). The winding contains 2x5 turns and is wound with two tires at once, each bus consists of 5 turns, as mentioned above.

We wind 5 turns with two tires at once around the entire frame, because we end up with 4 outputs of the primary winding.

We carefully isolate the winding with 10-15 layers of thin transparent adhesive tape and wind the step-up winding.

The secondary winding consists of 800 turns and is wound with 0.1 mm wire. We wind the winding in layers - each layer consists of 70-80 turns. We put the interlayer insulation with the same transparent adhesive tape, for each row there are 3-5 layers of insulation.

The finished transformer can be poured epoxy resin, which I never do, since the winding technology has been worked out and so far not a single transformer has broken through.

multiplier

We continue to collect the stun gun with our own hands. In the high-voltage part, two push-pull multipliers connected in series are used. They use fairly common high-voltage components - 5kV 2200pF capacitors and KTs123 or KTs106 diodes (the former work better due to the increased reverse voltage).

There is nothing special to explain, we collect stupidly according to the scheme. The finished multiplier turns out to be quite compact, it needs to be filled with epoxy after it is mounted in the case.

With such a multiplier, you can remove up to 5-6 cm of a clean arc, but you should not push the output contacts a long distance in order to avoid undesirable consequences.

Enclosure and Mounting

The case was taken from a Chinese LED flashlight, though I had to slightly redo it. The batteries are located at the back of the case.

The power switch is used as a fuse. You can use almost any with a current of 4-5 amperes or more. The switches were taken from Chinese nightlights (the price in the store is less than a dollar).

A button without fixation should also be taken with a large current. In my case, the button has two positions.

The flashlight is assembled on ordinary white LEDs. 3 LEDs from the flashlight are connected in series and connected to the battery through a 10 ohm limiting resistor. Such a flashlight shines brightly enough, it is quite suitable for consecrating a night road.

After the final installation, it is worth once again checking the entire circuit for serviceability.

To fill the voltage multiplier, I used epoxy resin, which is sold in syringes, the weight is only 28-29 Grams, but one package is enough to fill two such multipliers.

The finished stun gun is very compact and wildly powerful.

Due to the increased frequency of sparking, more joules per second are supplied to the human body, so the time of effective exposure to the shocker is microseconds!

Charging is carried out by a transformerless circuit, the design of which we will talk about some other time.

The finished shocker was covered with 3D carbon (the price is about $ 4 per 1 meter).

This is how you can make a stun gun with your own hands, while it will be much better compared to factory options.

For the first time, I have prepared several detailed video tutorials on assembling this stun gun.

How to make a stun gun?

If we consider self-defense means in terms of efficiency, ease of purchase and use, then the stun gun can be recognized as the best option. It does not require licenses and permits from the Ministry of Internal Affairs, and thanks to small size and its weight is convenient to carry in your pocket and handbag.

In this article, we will look at how a stun gun works, and describe how you can make this device with your own hands.

What is a stun gun made of?

The main elements of the stun gun are the nodes of the converter, arrester, capacitor and transformer. It works very simply. When the button is pressed, the charge accumulated in the capacitor enters the transformer, in which its power increases, and a discharge can be seen between the two contacts.

Complexity self-manufacturing stun gun consists in a transformer. His almost impossible to make at home, because it requires special tools, materials and calculations that simply do not exist in the public domain. Therefore, we will consider a method for manufacturing a stun gun according to a different scheme.

Our stun gun will consist of:

• ignition condenser;
• transformer-converter;
• output transformer;
• combat capacitor.

How to make a converter transformer

The transformer is the most complex part of the product, so let's start with it. Winding wire on the core of a transformer is a very long, monotonous and delicate process which requires patience and precision. To begin with, we need a B22 armor core made of 2000NM ferrite.

The armor core is closed design, which has only holes for wires. Such a core looks like two small cups, between which there is a bobbin, like in a sewing machine. You need to wind it thin enameled wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm. It can be found, for example, in an electronic alarm clock. You need to wind it carefully until about 1.5 mm remains. free space.

For greater efficiency of the transformer, it is better to wind the wire in layers, laying a thin electrical tape between them. This way you will get about 5 - 6 layers. After that, you need to insulate everything with two layers of ordinary electrical tape and wind 6 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.7 - 0.9 mm. On the third turn, we make a tap and wind the other three. Finally, we glue the cups together or wrap them with electrical tape.

Making an output transformer

For this we need:

• 5 - 6 cm polypropylene pipe diameter 20 mm;
• cutter;
• wire with a diameter of about 0.2 mm;
• ferrite rod 2000NM with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 5 - 6 cm;
• insulating tape.

Along the circumference of our pipe, you need to make grooves 2 mm deep and 2 mm wide. Next, we take a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm and wind it around all sections. It is better to glue or solder a stranded wire to the ends of the wire for more convenient connections.

Now you need to take a ferrite rod with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 5 - 6 cm. This rod must be wrapped with electrical tape and wound with 20 turns of wire with a cross section of 0.8 mm. We leave 5 - 10 mm along the edges and isolate everything with electrical tape in several layers so that it enters the inside of the tube quite tightly.

Now you need to connect the two windings together on the side where the HV winding ends. Thus, we get 3 outputs instead of 4: a common point, the end of the first winding and an HV output.

Transformers are best placed in a box and filled with paraffin. The main thing is not to fill the transformers with hot paraffin, and after pouring, you need to put the boxes near the fan heater to remove air bubbles.

How to assemble a stun gun?

We need a heatsink from a computer on which to install a transistor. The radiators need to be insulated, and if there are two radiators, then it is necessary that they do not touch each other. Can be used as batteries ½ AA NicD batteries. We connect our battery to the capacitor, then to the transistors and transformers. We provide an on / off button and put it all in an epoxy case. It is this material that will best help you make both a regular-sized stun gun and a mini stun gun.

Since it is very difficult to make a stun gun on your own according to the description, it is best to watch the video and circuit diagrams that you can find. If you still doubt that you can this work then you can buy it in the shop. The recommendations of the article will help you choose the right stun gun.

On the network you can find a lot of videos and text materials on manufacturing. The manufacture of most of them requires considerable Money and knowledge. In this material, we will consider a method for making one of the cheapest and most simple stun guns. As a result, we get a good means of self-defense.

Let's get acquainted with the video on the manufacture of a stun gun

So, we need:
- electric fly swatter;
- two finger batteries;
- box;
- transparent hoses;
- self-tapping screws.

Unlike most analogues made on the basis of piezoelectric elements, this stun gun will be made of serious materials, so you need to be extremely careful. Let's get started.

First of all, we take an electronic fly swatter and disassemble it. After successfully disassembling the flyswatter handle, all the electronics will open before us.

All we need is the board, which is located at the very top of the handle. The board contains the transformer itself, the power supply, the start button, which we will later bring out, an ice indicator that shows that the device is turned on, as well as capacitors, the outputs of which are located on the back of the board.

Since the factory solution for the location of the button may not be so convenient when installing the board in a box, you can therefore extend the button contacts with wires and install your own switch or button.

The exact location of the button should be chosen at your own discretion, depending on the type and size of the box.

As contacts, we will use the most common self-tapping screws. When looking for them, you need to make sure that they are as similar as possible. As for the hoses, we will use them to insulate the contacts.

On the box you need to make two holes for the contacts. If the box, like the author’s, is metal, then you definitely need to take care of insulating the contacts.

Finally, you can make the stun gun rechargeable. To do this, you can replace finger batteries with rechargeable batteries.

You can also replace the factory capacitor on the board with a capacitor taken from a camera flash, but we will not do this.

Isolate the inside of the box to prevent a short circuit.

We make a hole on the side for the button, on the top for screws and paint it.

The stun gun is an excellent weapon for self-defense. Today anyone can buy it individual who is 18 years old, it is completely legal! The shocker does not require additional documents from the buyer and its use is legal. The stun gun is intended for active defense against robbers and hooligans, but everything is not so simple. The fact is that the law of our country does not allow us, mere mortals, to wear stun guns with a power of more than 3 watts. The voltage of the shocker (arc length) does not matter and is intended only for breaking through clothes, it follows that a shocker with a voltage of several million volts in a difficult moment can turn out to be just a toy ... Really powerful shockers only organs are used, if you have a "police" shocker, you can not read this article, but I ask everyone else to warm up the soldering irons and prepare parts for the device.

I present to your attention the design of a stun gun with a power of 7 - 10 watts (depending on the power source), which you can do with your own hands. The design was chosen as the simplest so that even beginners can handle it, the selection of parts and materials is also available to beginners.

The voltage converter is made according to the blocking oscillator circuit on a single transistor, a reverse conduction field effect transistor of the IRF3705 type is used, which allows you to squeeze "all the juice" from the power source, IRFZ44 or IRL3205 transistors can also be used, there is almost no difference. Also, you need a 100 ohm resistor with a power of 0.5-1 watts (I used a 0.25 watt resistor, but I strongly advise against repeating my mistake).

The final and most important element of the converter is a step-up transformer. For the transformer, a core was used from impulse block power supply from the DVD player. First, we remove all the old windings from the transformer and wind the new ones. The primary winding contains 12 turns with a tap from the middle, that is, first we wind 6 turns, then we do it, we twist the wire and wind 6 more turns in the same direction on the frame, the diameter of the primary winding wire is 0.5 - 0.8 mm. After that, we isolate the primary winding with 5 layers of transparent adhesive tape and wind the secondary. Both the primary and secondary windings must be wound in the same direction. The secondary winding contains 600 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.08 - 0.1 mm. But we wind the wire not in bulk, but according to special technology!
Every 50 turns we put insulation with adhesive tape (in 2 layers), so the transformer will be reliably protected from breakdowns in the high-voltage winding. A transformer wound using this technology does not need to be filled, although just in case it can be filled with epoxy. We solder a stranded wire to the terminals of the secondary winding. insulated wire. It is desirable to install the transistor on a small aluminum heat sink.

After the converter is ready, it needs to be tested. To do this, we assemble a circuit without a high-voltage part, there should be a "burning current" at the output of the transformer, if it is, then everything works. Next, you need to solder the voltage multiplier. Ceramic capacitors have a capacity of 4700 picofarads, the capacity is not critical, the main thing is to choose capacitors with a voltage of at least 3 kilovolts. With a decrease in the capacitance of the capacitors, the frequency of the discharges increases, but the power of the shocker decreases, with an increase in capacitance, the frequency of the pulses decreases, in return, the power of the shocker increases. The diodes in the multiplier need high-voltage type KTs106, they can be obtained by breaking the Soviet TV multiplier or simply bought on the radio market.

Next, we connect the multiplier to the converter according to the diagram and turn on the shocker, the arc should be 1 - 2 cm (if you use all the ratings that are indicated in the diagram). The shocker emits loud pops with a frequency of 300 - 350 Hertz.

Lithium ion batteries can be used as a power source. mobile phones with a capacity of 600 mA, it is also possible to use nickel batteries with a voltage of 1.2 volts, four nickel-metal-hybrid batteries with a capacity of 650 mA were used in my design, due to a powerful field-effect transistor, the batteries work under heavy load (close to short circuit), but nevertheless, their capacity is enough for 2 minutes of constant operation of the shocker, and you will agree that this is a lot for such a compact and powerful stun gun!

Installation - is carried out in any convenient plastic case (fortunately, I had a suitable case at hand from the old Osa stun gun). The high-voltage part of the circuit must be coated with silicone (for reliability). A cut-off fork, nails or a screw will serve as bayonets. The stun gun must be supplemented with a switch and a non-latching button, this is necessary to avoid self-switching in your pocket.

In the end, a few words about the parameters of the shocker - the voltage on the arresters is over 10 kilovolts, the breakdown of clothes is 1.5 - 2 cm, the average power is 7 watts, the shocker is also supplemented with a built-in charger and an LED flashlight, the circuit charger taken from a Chinese LED flashlight. The switch has three positions, the LED must be connected to the power source through a 10 Ohm resistor (so as not to burn the LED).

This shocker turned out to be quite compact due to the multiplier and is quite suitable for our beloved ladies. Compared to factory-made stun guns that are sold in stores, our stun gun is much more powerful, and if you still want to increase the power, you can increase the power to 7.2 volts, because. A lot also depends on the capacity of the batteries.

List of radio elements

Designation	Type	Denomination	Quantity	Note	Score	My notepad
	MOSFET transistor	IRL3705N	1	IRFZ44 or IRL3205		To notepad
	Diode	KTs106B	2			To notepad
	Resistor	100 ohm	1	0.5-1 Watt		To notepad
	Capacitor	4700pF 5kV	2			To notepad
SW1	Switch		1

Electroshock devices are one of the better ways for self defense.

Today on free sale you can find for civilians with a power not exceeding 3 watts. The Civil Code is harsh, ESU increased power available only to organ workers, and for mere mortals the power is limited to 3 watts.

Definitely, regular 3 watts is clearly not enough for real defense, so you often have to design electroshock devices with your own hands at home.
In fact, the design of a home-made EShU is quite simple; quite powerful circuits can be implemented on a voltage multiplier with minimal cost. The model in question provides an output power of up to 70 watts, which is 13 times more than the power of an industrial stun gun.
The design consists of a high-voltage inverter and a voltage multiplier.

The inverter is made according to a simple multivibrator circuit on two field keys. Choice field effect transistors big enough. You can use keys from the IRFZ44, IRFZ48, IRF3205, IRL3705 series and any other similar ones.

The transformer is wound on a W-shaped ferrite core. Such a core can be found in low-power Chinese ETs, as well as in domestic TVs.

All windings from the frame must be removed and new ones wound. The primary winding is wound with a 1 mm wire and consists of 2x5 turns. Next, you need to isolate the winding with 10 layers of transparent adhesive tape or second-layer tape and wind the step-up winding.
This winding is wound with a wire of 0.07-0.1 mm and consists of 800-1000 turns. The winding is wound in layers, each layer consists of evenly wound 80 turns. After winding, we assemble the transformer, it is not necessary to fill it with resin.
The voltage multiplier uses high-voltage capacitors for 5 kV 2200 pF - can be found in domestic TVs. Capacitors can also be taken at 3 kV, but the danger of their breakdown is great.

There are many ways to feel confident in a dark alleyway or on narrow unlit streets, but most of them are either illegal or require a large number time. Not everyone can easily spend 20-30 thousand rubles on a traumatic weapon, and even spend a couple of months on training and obtaining a license. The same applies to martial arts - several years of practicing techniques in the hall does not guarantee protection, and it is impossible to learn how to fight in a month.

One of the best options for protecting yourself and loved ones from intruders is a stun gun. It does not require a license to carry and is not subject to registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs, it easily fits in a pocket or handbag. Any adult citizen of Russia can buy it, but not everyone can afford it. We will consider one of the many ways how to assemble a simple and powerful stun gun, with diagrams and pictures illustrating the creation process.

Before you start

Homemade stun guns are actually prohibited, since only Russian-made devices that have a license are allowed for use on the territory of the Russian Federation. The mere fact of owning such a product may attract the interest of law enforcement agencies.

What is a stun gun

typical representative electrical device for self-defense consists of five nodes: a battery, a voltage converter, a capacitor, a spark gap and a transformer. The mechanism of operation is as follows: the capacitor with some periodicity discharges the accumulated charge to the transformer, at the output of which a discharge occurs - the same spark. The problem with this design is this transformer, which is created in the factory from special materials according to a secret scheme that cannot be found on the Internet.

Therefore, the circuit will be somewhat different - based on a pair of ignition and combat capacitors. The gist is this:

• By pressing the button, the ignition capacitor acts in the same way as in original scheme- is discharged to the transformer, and that - gives a spark. This spark is an ionized layer of air, with much less resistance than ordinary air.

• at the moment of the appearance of a spark, the combat capacitor is triggered, which beats with all the accumulated power through this channel with virtually no loss.

As a result, with a lower total power of the product and savings on the transformer, the same, if not meaner, stun gun is obtained, while one and a half times less.

How to make the simplest stun gun at home: where to start

Manufacturing begins with the most difficult - the transformer. The reason for this is the complexity of winding it, so if the assembler cannot stand it and chooses an easier way to obtain a self-defense device (purchasing it), then no effort will be spent on manufacturing the remaining parts.

The basis will be a B22 magnetic armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. It is called armored because it is a thing closed on all sides with two conclusions. Looks like an ordinary coil, like the one that is inserted into sewing machine. True, instead of threads, a thin thread is wound into it. varnished wire approximately 0.1 mm in diameter. You can buy it at the radio market or get it from the alarm clock. Before winding, solder leads to the ends of the wire to make the structure stronger and more resistant to breakage.

Winding must be done by hand before free space about 1.5 millimeters will not remain on the coil. To achieve the best effect, it is better to wind in layers, isolating them from each other with electrical tape or other dielectric. And if you find a PELSHO wire, then no insulation is required at all - it is already in the wire design: just wind it in bulk and drip a little machine oil.

After winding is completed, insulate the turns with a pair of coils of electrical tape and wind 6 turns of thicker wire (0.7-0.9 millimeters) on top. In the middle of the winding, you need to make a tap - just twist and bring it out. It is better to fix the entire wire with cyanoacrylate, and fix the two halves of the coil with each other with cyanoacrylate or electrical tape,

Making an output transformer

This is the most hard part creating a stun gun with your own hands. Since a standard layer transformer cannot be made at home, we will simplify the design - we will make it sectional.

As a basis, we take an ordinary propylene tube with a diameter of 2 centimeters. If you still have these after repairs in the bathroom - it's time to use them, if not - buy them in a plumbing store. The main thing is that it should not be reinforced with metal. We need a piece 5-6 centimeters long.

It is easy to make a sectional frame out of it - fix the workpiece and cut grooves 2 mm wide and 2 mm deep every 2 mm according to its diameter. Be careful - the pipe cannot be cut. After that, cut a groove 3 mm wide along the frame.

It remains only to make the winding. It is made from a wire with a diameter of 2 millimeters, which is wound around all sections within the tube. Solder the lead to the beginning of the wire and fix it with glue to prevent accidental breakage.

As a core for the transformer, a ferrite rod with a diameter of 1 centimeter and a length of approximately 5 centimeters is suitable. Suitable material can be found in line-scan transformers in old Soviet TVs - you just need to fit it to the dimensions and grind it to the shape, in fact, of the rod. This is quite a dusty job, so do not do it at home and without a respirator. If there is no workshop or garage nearby, use ferrite rings by gluing them together, or buy it on the radio market.

The rod must be wrapped with electrical tape and a winding made of 0.8 wire is made on it (we used it for the second winding of the converter transformer. The winding is done along the entire length of the core, not reaching the edges of 5-10 millimeters, and is fixed with electrical tape.

The core winding is wound in the same direction as the winding on the propylene tube - clockwise or counterclockwise.

After that, insulate the core with electrical tape, but watch the diameter - it should fit snugly into the tube. On the side where the tube winding does not have soldered wire, solder the two windings (outer and inner) together. Thus, you will get three conclusions - two ends of the windings and a common point.

If you do not understand the process, you can watch a video on YouTube on how to make a stun gun with your own hands at home.

The final stage is paraffin filling. Anyone will do - the main thing is not to boil it to avoid damage internal elements transformer. Make a small box a little higher than the height of the transformer. Place a transformer in it, bring the wires out and fill the exit points with glue. After that, pour the paraffin into the box and put it on the battery so that the paraffin does not cool down, and all air bubbles come out. We need a margin in height due to the shrinkage of the cooling paraffin. Remove excess with a knife.

Do-it-yourself stun gun from improvised materials: wiring

Now it's time to take a look at circuit diagram stun gun. It looks like this:

• the ignition capacitor is charged through the diode bridge

• through additional diodes, the combat capacitor is charged.

Almost any 330 ohm MOSFET transistors are suitable for the converter, the choice of resistors is also uncritical. 3300 picofarad capacitors are needed to limit the current strength when starting the device, that is, to protect the converter. If you are using power transistors(like IRFZ44+), then such protection is not required. and you can do without installing such capacitors.

There is one feature in the circuit: if the contacts are short-circuited (for example, when touching the skin, not the clothes), the shocker does not work correctly, since the combat capacitor does not have time to charge. If you want to get rid of such a disadvantage, put the second arrester in series with one of the outputs.

The whole circuit (with correct layout elements on the board) fits perfectly on a platform of 4 by 5 centimeters. For food, take 6 nickel cadmium batteries capacity of 300 milliamp-hours half the size AA battery approximately 15 watts. Thus, the entire device is placed in a case the size of a cigarette pack.

For contacts, it is best to take aluminum rivets. They have sufficient electrical conductivity and have a steel core. It gives two advantages at once: the strength of the contacts is significantly increased and there are no problems with soldering aluminum. If they are not, then ordinary steel plates of any shape will do.

Assembly can be done either on an etched textolite board, or by soldering the elements with wires. But for starters, it's better to assemble it on a breadboard in order not to waste time and energy reworking the board in case something goes wrong. High-voltage terminals should be fixed at a short distance (about one and a half centimeters) so that the transformer does not burn out.

After unsoldering, turn on the device. Power must be taken directly from the batteries - do not use power supplies. He does not need to set up and he should work immediately after switching on, the frequency of spark formation is approximately 35 hertz. If it is much less, the reason is most likely in an incorrectly wound transformer or in the wrong transistors.

If everything works correctly, then separate the output contacts by a centimeter and start the device again. A standard shocker has a distance between the contacts of 2.5 centimeters. If everything works correctly, then spread the contacts another centimeter and test the device again. If it works all right, bring them back to the standard 2.5 centimeters. Such a power reserve is needed in order for the device to work in any conditions of humidity and pressure.

If the parts do not smoke or melt, everything is fine, you can solder the elements onto the board and proceed to the last step - creating the case.

Housing for a stun gun at home

Since stamping the case at home is not available, and 3D printers are not available everywhere and not to everyone, we will use a folk remedy - epoxy resin. Forming such a box is a painstaking process, but such a material has a number of advantages:

• solidity;
• tightness;
• electrical insulation.

To create, you will need epoxy itself, cardboard as a frame, a glue gun and some little things.

It is better to start the process by cutting out the back cover of the case from cardboard with a pre-drawn plan for the location of parts, and then glue it with strips of cardboard around the perimeter using glue gun. The strips should be as long as the width of the shocker (about 3 centimeters) plus a margin for a sticker. Need to glue with outside bases, while carefully making sure that the seam is tight.

After all the strips are glued, place the elements of the circuit inside and evaluate the correctness of their layout. Also determine where you will have the start button and the battery charging connector. If everything suits, then check the correctness of the connection of the elements to each other and the operation of the shocker again. Pay special attention to the tightness of the case - epoxy can penetrate into invisible cracks and leave stubborn stains on any surface.

It's time to start pouring the mold with epoxy. Put the filled form aside and wait 6-8 hours. After this time, it will not become hard, but will be plastic enough to give the body the desired ergonomic shape. After complete curing, process the epoxy with sandpaper and varnish with any varnish, for example, zaponlak.

As a result, you will get a reliable and durable device that is not afraid of bumps, drops and water. How to test it? Take a 0.25 amp fuse and place it between the contacts. After starting the device, the fuse will blow - this shows that the power of the device exceeds 250 milliamps, which is a significant power that can stop even the most zealous and overall intruder.

Specifications homemade stun gun
- voltage on the electrodes - 10 kV,
- pulse frequency up to 10 Hz,
- voltage 9 V. (Krona battery),
- weight no more than 180 gr.

Device design:

The device is a generator of high-voltage voltage pulses connected to the electrodes and placed in a housing made of a dielectric material. The generator consists of 2 series-connected voltage converters (Scheme in Fig. 1). The first converter is an asymmetric multivibrator based on transistors VT1 and VT2. It is turned on with the SB1 button. The load of the transistor VT1 is the primary winding of the transformer T1. The pulses taken from its secondary winding are rectified by the diode bridge VD1-VD4 and charge the battery of storage capacitors C2-C6. The voltage of capacitors C2-C6 when the SB2 button is turned on is the power supply for the second converter on the VS2 trinistre. The charge of the capacitor C7 through the resistor R3 to the switching voltage of the dynistre VS1 leads to turning off the trinis VS2. In this case, the battery of capacitors C2-C6 is discharged onto the primary winding of the transformer T2, inducing secondary winding high voltage pulse. Since the discharge is oscillatory in nature, the voltage polarity on the C2-C6 battery changes to the opposite, after which it is restored due to overdischarging through the primary winding of the T2 transformer and the VD5 diode. When the capacitor C7 is recharged again to the switching voltage of the dinistr VD1, the trinistor VS2 is turned on again and the next high voltage pulse is formed at the output electrodes.

All elements are installed on a foil-wrapped fiberglass board, as shown in Fig. 2. Diodes, resistors and capacitors are installed vertically. The case can be any suitable size box made of a material that does not transmit electricity.

The electrodes are made of steel needles up to 2 cm long - for access to the skin through human clothing or animal hair. The distance between the electrodes is at least 25 mm.

The device does not need adjustment and operates flawlessly only with correctly wound transformers. Therefore, follow the rules for their manufacture: transformer T1 is made on a ferrite ring of size K10 * 6 * 3 or K10 * 6 * 5 from ferrite grade 2000NN, its winding I contains 30 turns of PEB-20.15 mm wire, and winding II - 400 turns of PEV-20.1 mm. The voltage on its primary winding should be 60 volts. The T2 transformer is wound on a frame made of ebonite or plexiglass with an inner diameter of 8 mm, an outer diameter of 10 mm, a length of 20 mm, and a cheek diameter of 25 mm. The magnetic circuit is a segment from a ferrite rod for a magnetic antenna 20 mm long and 8 mm in diameter.

Winding I contains 20 turns of PELSh (PEV-2) wire - 0.2 mm, and winding II - 2600 turns of PEV-2 with a diameter of 0.07-0.1 mm. At the beginning, winding II is wound on the frame, through each layer of which a layer of varnished fabric is placed (a breakdown between the turns of the secondary winding may necessarily occur otherwise), and then the primary winding is wound on top of it. The conclusions of the secondary winding are carefully insulated and attached to the electrodes.

Among the means of self-defense, electroshock devices (EShU) are not in last place, especially in terms of the strength of the psychological impact on intruders. However, the cost is also considerable, which encourages radio amateurs to create a stun gun with their own hands of their counterparts.

Without claiming to be super-original and super-new ideas, I propose my development, which can be repeated by anyone who at least once in their life has dealt with transformer winding and installation the simplest devices type of a detector radio receiver with an amplifier on one or two transistors.

The basis of the do-it-yourself stun gun I offer is (Fig. 1a) a transistor generator that converts a constant voltage from a power source such as a galvanic battery "Krona" ("Korund", 6PLF22) or a Nika battery into an increased variable, with a typical multiplier U. Very important element EShU is a self-made transformer (Fig. 1b and Fig. 2). The magnetic circuit for it is a ferrite core with a diameter of 8 and a length of 50 mm. Such a core can be chipped off, for example, from a magnetic antenna of a radio receiver, having previously filed the original around the circumference with the edge of an abrasive stone. But the transformer works more efficiently if the ferrite is from a television TVS. True, in this case, it will be necessary to grind a cylindrical rod of the required dimensions from the base U-shaped magnetic circuit.

The tube-base of the frame for placing transformer windings on it is a 50-mm segment of a plastic case from an already used felt-tip pen, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the above-mentioned ferrite rod. Cheeks measuring 40x40 mm are cut from a 3 mm sheet of vinyl plastic or plexiglass. They are firmly connected to the tube-piece of the felt-tip pen body, having previously lubricated the seats with dichloroethane.

For transformer windings, in this case, copper wire is used in high-strength enamel insulation based on vinyl flex. Primary 1 contains 2x14 turns of PEV2-0.5. In winding 2, they are almost half as many. More precisely, it contains 2x6 turns of the same wire. But high-voltage 3 has 10,000 turns of thinner PEV2-0.15.

As an interlayer insulation, instead of a film of polytetrafluoroethylene (fluoroplast) or polyethylene terephthalate (lavsan), usually recommended for such windings, it is quite acceptable to use 0.035 mm interelectrode capacitor paper. It is advisable to stock up on it in advance: for example, remove from the 4-microfarad LSE1-400 or LSM-400 from the installation old fittings under the lamps daylight, which has long developed, it would seem, its resource, and cut exactly according to the working width of the frame of the future transformer.

After every three "wire" layers in the author's version, a "brush" of the resulting winding was certainly carried out with a wide brush epoxy glue, slightly diluted with acetone (so that the "epoxy" was not very viscous) and condenser-paper insulation was laid in 2 layers. Further, without waiting for curing, winding continued.

To avoid wire breakage due to uneven frame rotation during winding, PEV2-0.15 was passed through the ring. The latter hung on a spring made of steel wire with a diameter of 0.2 - 0.3 mm, somewhat pulling the wire upwards. Between the high-voltage and the rest of the windings, anti-breakdown protection was installed - 6 layers of the same capacitor paper with "epoxy".

The ends of the windings are soldered to the pins passed through the holes in the cheeks. However, conclusions can be drawn without breaking the winding wires, from the same PEV2, folding them 2, 4, 8 times (depending on the diameter of the wire) and twisting them.

The finished transformer is wrapped with one layer of fiberglass and filled with epoxy resin. During installation, the winding leads are pressed against the cheeks and laid with the maximum separation of the ends from each other (especially for the high-voltage winding) in the corresponding compartment of the housing. As a result, even with a 10-minute operation (and a longer continuous use of a protective stun gun with your own hands is not required), breakdowns at the transformer are excluded.

In the original design, the EShU generator was developed with a focus on the use of KT818 transistors. However, replacing them with KT816 with any letter index in the name and installing them on small plate radiators allowed to reduce the weight and dimensions of the entire device. The use of well-proven KTs106V (KTs106G) diodes with high-voltage ceramic capacitors K15-13 (220 pF, 10 kV) in the voltage multiplier also contributed to this. As a result, it was possible to fit almost everything (without taking into account the safety whiskers and spark gap pins) into a plastic housing like a soap dish measuring 135x58x36 mm. The weight of the protective EShU in the collection is about 300 g.

In the case between the transformer and the multiplier, as well as at the electrodes on the soldering side, partitions of sufficient durable plastic- as a measure to strengthen the structure as a whole and a precaution to avoid a spark jump from one mounting radio element to another, and also as a means of protecting the transformer itself from breakdowns. Brass mustaches are attached from the outer part under the electrodes to reduce the distance between the electrodes, which facilitates the formation of a protective discharge.

A protective spark is also formed without a "mustache": between the tips of the pins - the working bodies, but this increases the risk of breakdown of the transformer, "flashing" the installation inside the case.

In fact, the idea of ​​"mustache" is borrowed from the "proprietary" models and developments. Taken, as they say, into service and such a technical solution as the use of a switch of an indispensable slide type: in order to avoid self-switching, when the electroshock protective equipment rests, say, in the breast or side pocket of its owner.

It is not out of place, I think, to warn radio amateurs about the need for careful handling of the protective ESD, both during the design and adjustment period, and when walking with ready-made stun gun with your own hands. Remember that it is directed against a bully, a criminal. Do not exceed the limits of necessary self-defense!

The idea of ​​​​creating a stun gun increased efficiency came to me after testing several similar devices on myself industrial production. During the tests, it turned out that they deprive the enemy of combat capability only after 4 ... 8 seconds of exposure, and then if you're lucky :) Do I need to say that as a result real application such a shocker will most likely end up in the back seat of the owner.

Info: our legislation allows for mere mortals shockers with an output power of not more than 3 J / s (1 J / s = 1 W), at the same time, devices with a power of up to 10 W are allowed for ATC workers. But even 10 watts is not enough to effectively neutralize the enemy; During experiments on volunteers, the Americans became convinced of the extreme inefficiency of 5 ... 7 W shockers, and decided to create a device that would specifically extinguish the enemy. Such a device was created: "ADVANCED TASER M26" (one of the modifications of "AirTaser" by the company of the same name).

The device was created using EMD technology, in other words, it has an increased output power. Specifically - 26 watts (as they say, "feel the difference" :)). In general, there is another model of this device - M18, with a power of 18 watts. This is due to the fact that the taser is a remote shocker: when you press the trigger, two probes are fired from the cartridge inserted into the front of the device, followed by wires. The probes do not fly parallel to each other, but diverge at a slight angle, due to which at the optimal distance (2...3 m) the distance between them becomes 20...30 cm. It is clear that if the probes hit somewhere in the wrong place, it might turn out to be a jerk. Therefore, they released a device of lower power.

At first I made stun guns, similar in efficiency to industrial ones (out of ignorance :). But when I found out the information given above, I decided to develop a REAL stun gun worthy of being called a WEAPON of self-defense. By the way, in addition to stun guns, there are also PARALIZERS, but they don’t rule at all, because they paralyze muscles only in the contact zone, and the effect is not achieved immediately, even with high power.

The output parameters of the MegaShocker are partially borrowed from the "ADVANCED TASER M26". According to available data, the device generates pulses with a repetition rate of 15 ... 18 Hz and an energy of 1.75J at a voltage of 50Kv (because the lower the voltage, the higher the current at the same power). Since the MegaShocker is still a contact device, and also out of concern for own health:), it was decided to make the pulse energy equal to 2 ... 2.4 J, and their repetition frequency - 20 ... 30 Hz. This is at a voltage of 35 ... 50 kilovolts and a maximum distance between the electrodes (at least 10 cm).

The scheme, however, turned out to be somewhat complicated, but nevertheless:

Scheme: On the DA1 chip, a control generator (PWM controller) is assembled, on transistors Q1, Q2 and transformer T1 - a voltage converter 12v --> 500v. When capacitors C9 and C10 are charged up to 400 ... 500 volts, the threshold node is activated on the elements R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1, and a current pulse passes through the primary winding T2, the energy of which is calculated by formula 1.2 (E is the energy (J), C - capacitance C9 + C10 (μF), U - voltage (v)). At U \u003d 450v and C \u003d 23 uF, the energy will be 2.33 J. Rezyuk R14 sets the threshold. Capacitor C6 or C7 (depending on the position of switch S3) - limits the power of the device, otherwise it will tend to infinity, and the circuit will burn out.

Capacitor C6 provides maximum power("MAX"), C7 - demo ("DEMO"), which allows you to admire the electric discharge without the risk of burning the device and / or landing the battery :) (when you turn on the "DEMO" mode, you must also turn off S4). The capacitance of C6 and C7 is calculated using formula 1.1, or simply selected (for a power of 45 watts at a frequency of 17 KHz, the capacitance will be about 0.02 microfarads). HL1- Fluorescent Lamp(LB4, LB6 or similar (C8 is selected)), set for disguise - so that the device looks like a tricked-out lantern and does not arouse suspicion in different kind police officers and other personalities (otherwise they can be taken away, I had a case - a similar device was taken away). Of course, you can do without a lamp. Elements R5-C2 determine the frequency of the generator, with the specified ratings f = ~ 17KHz. Rizuk R11 limits the output voltage, you can do without it at all - just attach R16-C5 to the case. Diode D1 protects the circuit from damage when connected in reverse polarity. A fuse - for every fire-fighting one (for example: if a thread closes somewhere, the battery can explode (there were cases)).

Now for the assembly of the device: you can assemble the entire device on a breadboard, but it is recommended to solder pulse circuit(C9-C10-R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1) hinged mounting, while the wires connecting C9-C10, SCR1 and T2 should be as short as possible. The same applies to elements Q1, Q2, C4 and T1. Transformers T1 and T2 should be located away from each other.

T1 is wound on two ring cores folded together from M2000NM1, size K32*20*6. First, a winding of 3 - 320 turns of PEL 0.25 is wound, turn to turn. Windings 1 and 2 contain 8 turns of PEL 0.8 ... 1.0 each. They are wound simultaneously in two wires, the turns should be evenly distributed over the magnetic circuit.

T2 is wound on a core of transformer plates. The plates must be isolated from each other with a film (paper, adhesive tape, etc.). The core cross-sectional area must be at least 450 square millimeters. First, a winding of 1 - 10 ... 15 turns of PEL wire 1.0 ... 1.2 is wound. Winding 2 contains 1000 ... 1500 turns and is wound in layers turn to turn. Each winding layer is insulated with several layers of adhesive tape or a capacitor film (which can be obtained by breaking the smoothing conder from the LDS lamp. Then it's all filled with epoxy. Attention - the primary winding must be carefully isolate from the secondary!Otherwise, it may turn out to be some kind of filth (the device may fail, or it may shock the owner with current. And it’s not bad to beat ...) Switch S1 is a type of fuse (with SUCH power, caution will not hurt), S2 is a button switching on, both switches must be rated for a current of at least 10A.

A distinctive feature of the circuit is that everyone can set it up for themselves (in the sense for the enemy :) The output power of the device can be in the range from 30 to 75 watts (doing less than 30, IMHO, is impractical). And more than 75 is just bad, because. with a further increase in power, the efficiency will not be much greater, and the risk will increase significantly. Well, the dimensions of the device will turn out to be a little more.). Output voltage - 35 ... 50 thousand volts. The frequency of discharges should be at least 18 ... 20 per second. The recommended parameters are 40 watts, the energy of a single pulse is 1.75J at a voltage of 40Kv. (if you lower the voltage, you can also reduce the pulse energy, the efficiency will remain the same. 1.75J at 40Kv will be approximately the same as 2.15J at 50Kv. But it is not advisable to make the voltage less than 35 Kv, because then the skin resistance, i.e. current, will interfere in the impulse will be insufficient).