Decorative columns: do-it-yourself options. Types of capitals and self-assembly on pilasters From what you can make semi-columns with your own hands

Pilasters in the interior are protruding columns and are successfully used for decorating rooms. They can be used to highlight interesting elements in the interior or hide wall defects. Pilasters look especially harmonious in the Empire style, in Greek and Egyptian.

Previously, the columns performed an important architectural function, they served as a support for ceilings. Such elements as decor are appropriate only in spacious rooms: church or hotel halls, front corridors. For low rooms, pilasters are successfully used.

Components and sizes of decor

Like a column, a pilaster has a base, a capital and a stem. The base is a small base that can protrude more from the wall than the trunk. The trunk is often made rectangular and slightly rounded. This part can be absolutely smooth (without decor) or have some kind of pattern.

The most beautiful part is the capital. Here you can find volumetric stucco molding, original pattern and other decor. It is the capital that reflects the interior style of the room. stucco work the capitals should be combined with the rest of the furnishings, so it is better to think about the style of the room in advance.

The size of the pilaster does not have to be from floor to ceiling. AT classic interior often use decor up to half the wall. On top of a short column, you can install a small shelf with flower pot and a beautiful statue. Or set a picture or a photograph in a frame.

What are pilasters made of?

The pilaster can be made from different materials. Previously, marble and granite columns were popular, which testified to good taste owner and his high financial position. Then they were replaced by more affordable and practical plaster products. From plaster, you can fashion an element of any shape, place a decor on it in the form of a vine, flowers or leaves. Gypsum is a durable and fire-resistant material, but, like marble, it is quite heavy.

In a modern interior, decorative pilasters made of foam or polyurethane are more often used. These materials are very light and cheap, which allows you to add sophistication to the room without significant costs and much work. This option is ideal for those who want to decorate their living space quickly and inexpensively. In addition, it is easy to give such products the desired shade, simply by painting them with a suitable paint.

Pilasters made of polyurethane have a number of advantages over products made from other materials:

stronger than foam
simple installation;
easy dismantling;
variety of shades.

Gypsum and marble (granite) pilasters are practically not subject to deformation. Even after a fire, they can be restored. Such decorative elements were often used to decorate royal palaces and their photos can be seen in historical collections and guidebooks.

Why place such decor in the room?

With the help of pilasters, you can visually increase the height of the room, like any vertically placed decor. And polyurethane pilasters not only fit harmoniously into modern interior but not afraid of minor damage.

The pilaster is able to hide the defect of the wall by attracting attention to itself, the corner pilaster will even out the imperfect angle. If such decor is done in light colors it will brighten the room significantly, and a dark shade pilaster is more suitable for gothic styles.

This decor can be designed not only for walls. For example, creating fireplace, you can emphasize it with small pilasters on the sides, thereby giving it an antique look. AT large rooms(halls of hotels, theaters, houses of culture) pilasters are glued to columns, thereby giving them an interesting shape and individual appearance.

Pilasters in the interior

Such decoration will help to highlight a certain area in the room. If you place two pilasters on the wall, you will thereby allocate space for a photo in a frame, a picture or any other wall decor. To deepen in the wall under the shelves or under the home theater, you can make a border. A sleeping area with a niche for a bed (or if the bed is completely hidden in the wall) will be worth highlighting with neat pilasters.

Other good decision will decorate the doorway with pilasters or arch separating two rooms. In the same way, you can select a niche with shelves. A photo original solutions on the use of pilasters can be seen in published catalogs of works famous designers interior.

Advice! One pilaster in the interior will look out of place. Such interior decor elements look better in pairs, that is, on both sides of a niche, a door or in the corners of a room. They can also decorate the supports of stairs or their railings, beautifully decorate functional ledges on the wall (boxes for communications).

From this article you will learn how to independently complete the facing of the front part of the fireplace with wooden carved elements. We will talk about the rules for calculating the template, the nuances of installation and fitting, impregnation and coloring of parts. The article indicates the main dimensions and the principle of assembling the portal structure.

A fireplace is an attribute of luxury. In most cases, its device is associated with responsible and expensive work. The final stage - cladding - requires a carefully thought-out design and highly skilled craftsmen. Finishing work we will divide the fireplace into stages.

Stage 1. Design development and model creation

Note. To create a three-dimensional model, you will need the skills of a specialist in working with the Google SketchUp program.

When developing the design, we take into account that the fireplace itself is already arranged in accordance with all the rules and has protective heat-resistant planes in the right places. The hearth and chimney of the fireplace also work in the prescribed mode. In order to accurately calculate the dimensions of the fireplace portal, we recommend using the SketchUp program. This will help balance the elements and see the layout of the finished result.

Initial (original) view of the fireplace wall:

We create the space of the room in the program and arrange the fireplace according to the actual size.

The program provides the ability to insert real photo interior for more realism. The model of the fireplace can be entered into the interior and see a variant of the final view of the room (chimney wall).

In the program, you can perform detailing and see how the elements are combined with each other, which have dimensions.

After each element has been worked out, they should be assembled together in a three-dimensional model, and dimensions should be applied. Now the model can be rotated and tilted at different angles, which allows you to detect and eliminate minor design flaws.

Stage 2. Procurement of material and organization of the workplace

First of all, it is necessary to determine the terminology and distribution of work. It may be better to entrust some of the work to professional carpenters working in the workshop. But even in this case, you will need knowledge of the nuances and names of the details.

Terms (dictionary)

In our case, an aristocratic appearance in a wooden version was chosen. This format implies the presence of traditional medium-sized elements:

Frieze - a form of finishing the plane. In another way, it is called a panel or rust.
Sandrik - an intermediate border from a small-piece pattern.
Corrugated panels are elements of a plane that have a straight, slender relief.
Pilaster or false column - a vertical decorative element that looks like a column.
The lower overlay or false support is an overlay that gives visual massiveness to the lower part of the pilaster.
Finished decorative panels, inserts, profiles - parts of the finish with a straight longitudinal pattern (or without), made on a profiling machine (thickness gauge).

1 - frieze; 2 - sandrik; 3 - corrugated panels; 4 - pilaster; 5 - pilaster overlay; 6 - profile to eliminate the gap; 7 - decorative insert

Room and tool

To create a massive wooden facade You will need a separate room for work with good lighting and ventilation. The workbench must be reliable, stable and strictly horizontal in all directions. The lid of the workbench should allow you to fix the stops. The room must be permanent room temperature and normal humidity.

For the manufacture of elements you will need the following tool:

Manual electromill with a full set of nozzles.
Stationary circular saw with a "clean cut" blade (42 teeth). You can install a manual circular on the workbench.
Screwdriver.
Electric jigsaw.
grinders- tape and vibration.
Clamps with protective pads.
Carpenter's tool kit - mallet, chisels, square, basting, etc.

For installation you will additionally need:

Impact drill with dowels 8 mm.
Vacuum cleaner, rags, wood screws 35 mm.

Consumables:

Sandpaper grain 120 - 0.5 sq. m; grain 240 - 0.5 sq. m.
Belts and discs for grinders grain 120 and 240 - 3 pcs.
Joiner's glue D-3 - 0.5 kg (or equivalent).
Turpentine - 0.5 l.
Spindle or linseed oil - 0.5 l.
Stain of the selected tone - 0.5-1 l.
Wood varnish - 1 l.
Scotch masking 30 and 50 mm.

Since the fireplace portal is finished after fine finish premises and laying flooring, you should not count on using the fireplace room itself as a workshop.

Stage 3. Manufacturing of parts

Note. For the production of elements, you will need the skill of a carpenter and knowledge of the nuances of the main tool - a manual electric cutter.

If this is your first time encountering such work, we recommend that you hone your skill on cheap wood - pine or birch. The main problem of prefabricated joinery is the inconsistency of parts due to poor-quality cutting of seats. Test all cutters on prototypes and achieve the best fit.

All blanks must be sanded in advance. If you purchased a board that has been basic sanded, sand it with a 240-blade vibratory sander.

Pilaster making

The facade shield of the pilaster has a panel structure and consists of two elements - a frame (frame) and an insert. You will need two shields in total.

The frame is created from a board 60 mm wide.

1. We cut the frame elements into an approximate size (+30 mm).

2. We pass with a “half-shtap” cutter 20 mm along the entire length. Select the cutter according to the radius of the notch empirically, based on the size of the pattern.

3. We determine the location of the transverse ribs on parallel racks (3 ribs) and note the size of the pilaster itself in height.

4. We mill the end of the rib and the seat on the rack so that they are installed “dry” without gaps. To do this, use an end mill. In our case, a 15 mm spike is enough.

5. Cut out all three ribs and seats for them.

6. Insert the first rib one by one, then the pilaster panel, the second and third ribs. One opening will remain empty - in the future it will be blocked by the bottom overlay.

7. We adjust with clamps strictly in size. In case of inconsistency, we cut the remains of the tree.

8. We assemble for glue.

Attention! Make sure that the glue does not get on the front surface - it penetrates deeply and can give visible smudges when painting (staining). Most wood adhesives set after 3 hours.

9. We cut out the edge of the pilaster from a board 100 mm wide. One side should be chamfered at 45°. Do it better circular saw(the jigsaw will not give a smooth, precise move - there is a risk of spoiling the workpiece).

10. We chamfer the pilaster shield so that it joins at 90 ° with the edge.

11. We join the rib and the shield, first trial (dry), and then glue.

Making a frieze

The frieze - the upper transverse panel - is similar to pilasters in terms of design and assembly principle.

Production of frieze overlays

For overlays, we need a board 225x280 (2 pcs.). According to the plan, parallel straight grooves with rounded edges, which are called flutes, will be cut in it.

Attention! Practice on chipboard or plywood.

1. We mark the flutes (width 20 mm).

2. We cut with a 20 mm side cutter according to the marking.

3. We grind the front surfaces with grain 240.

Making a sandrik

This decor element in our case has a simplified form - alternately protruding rectangular elements. It can be made in three different ways:

cut small rectangles into size and put them on the sandrik;
cut strips (slats) of a given width and stick them on the base (board or chipboard), then cut across;
select grooves of a given depth with a milling cutter in the board and cut the strips across, then compile them in length.

The third option is the easiest and fastest for us, because it is possible to use a cutter.

1. We mark the grooves with a width of 30 mm and go through the end mill to a depth of 20 mm.

2. We cut transverse strips 40 mm wide with a circular.

The main elements of the fireplace facade are ready. The remaining parts - the overlay of the base of the pilaster and the flashings - are cut out and installed last.

Making the main template and pre-assembly

A template or pattern is a U-shaped element of the portal construct, on which, in fact, the whole structure rests. It will consist of two parts - the main one (under the pilasters and frieze) and the inner one (under the frame of the hearth).

The main template is made according to internal dimensions models and already manufactured elements.

Attention! Before cutting the template according to the dimensions taken from the virtual model, be sure to check the actual dimensions - they may differ. Correction in this case - according to the actual size.

In our case, the dimensions will be as follows:

plywood thickness - 18 mm;
the height of the transverse "crossbar" - 280 mm;
width of vertical elements - 300 - 2 x 25 = 250 mm;
sufficient height of vertical elements - 300 mm;
internal distance between vertical elements- 1400 - 2 x 25 = 1350 mm;
outer "step" - 25 mm.

For preliminary adjustment, we set the template according to the level at a given height, i.e., in the design position.

Stage 4. Installation and painting

Installation and adjustment of cladding elements

We fix finished items to the pattern with clamps and verify the volume. The appearance is often corrected "by eye", because the appearance of the virtual model is still different from the real sample. To fit on the template, we glue linings of plywood and planks. The pilasters must be exposed, carefully fitted and fixed to the template with glue and self-tapping screws.

On the fireplace wall reverse side pilaster fix persistent bars. On the pilasters themselves, we install the inner frame of the hearth from a 60 mm board.

Installing the template on the wall

Key moment. We expose the template to the fireplace wall, center it with the help of levels, squares and rulers.

Attention! At this stage, even the slightest distortions are unacceptable - they will be visible on a span of 2.4 m.

We fix the template to the wall with dowels using self-tapping screws. At the same time, it should be possible to remove the structure for painting.

We measure in place the size of the internal element of the frame. We make it from strips of plywood.

Detail painting

We dismantle the structure from the wall. As mentioned above, all parts must be sanded with a fine sandpaper grit 240. After polishing, eliminating minor defects (if any) and thorough dedusting, we process the front planes with turpentine or solvent. After it evaporates, apply a layer of oil. Then we cover with paint.

Final assembly

After complete drying of the painted elements, we set the structure to the design position.

Then we make the lower lining for the pilasters. This work is only done in situ to minimize the chance of gaps when misalignments occur.

In parallel, we check the correct installation level and visually. We install the side plugs (slats) and the inner element of the template.

We glue the sandrik strips and install the upper “lid” on the glue with the help of clamps.

We insert a decorative profiled board between the sandrik and the “lid”. We paint the remaining planes, eliminate color defects (if any). Upon request after final assembly and coloring design can be varnished.

Final look of the product:

The beauty of wood fireplace trim is undeniable, while the appearance can be varied with various elements wooden profile and create your own design.

Materials and tools

To make it more convenient, I will initially list the basic materials that we need to create the form:

Materials for making moulds:

acrylic silicone.
Separating lubricant.
Building plaster.
PVA glue.
Cement.
silicone oil.

Tools and fixtures:

tabletop with a flat surface;
polyethylene film;
staple gun;
narrow and wide spatula;
small measuring cup;
brush, preferably narrow;
silicone gun.

Perhaps I missed something, or in your particular case you need something else in addition, so do not take these lists as an exact instruction. This is just for reference.

Now we can proceed to a more detailed description of the process.

The entire technology for making molds for stucco molding will be described in relation to my case. Do not pay attention to the fact that I am talking exclusively about pilasters. This can be done with everything.

So, the beginning of the creation of the form is due to the preparation of the base on which it fits (see photo above). On it, the form will cool, so pay special attention to ensuring that everything is even. As a base for the shape of the pilaster, I used homemade countertop right size from boards and drywall. Drywall pre-sheathed plastic wrap fastening it to the table with brackets.

Preparation of a silicone mixture, which is the basis of the future form

In fact, two elements are required: silicone and silicone oil, which are mixed together.

Oil is needed to make the silicone even more elastic. However, if your form is relatively simple and does not have a large number protrusions, or some other decorative elements, it is not necessary to use silicone oil.

When everything is ready, you can do the most important part. It is necessary to smear the copied product with a silicone mixture. This should be done very carefully. It is important that the silicone gets into all the pores. To speed up this process, use a brush. With smooth strokes, the silicone is driven into all the grooves and at the same time air bubbles are removed.

Speaking of bubbles, make sure there aren't any at all. Since after the silicone has dried, shells remain in such places, which will spoil all subsequent products made from this form.

Several layers of silicone will have to be applied. After the first layer, it is necessary to carry out reinforcement so that in the future our shape is elastic, but at the same time strong. For this, I used ordinary gauze. When laying it on the product, make sure that it fits snugly around it, but without stretching. The gauze sinks a little into the already applied layer of silicone.

Then, on top of the slightly recessed gauze, subsequent silicone layers are applied.

Let the silicone dry a little. AT weak points, in our case, these are the sides of the pilaster, we arrange an additional thickening of the form. The same silicone will help us with this. It is more convenient to take silicone in tubes, which is loaded into a silicone gun. A strip of silicone is applied along the edges and smeared along the edge of the product with a brush or finger. Oddly enough, it is advisable to use a finger, just pre-moisten it with water so that silicone does not stick to it.

Again, let the whole product dry a little and upon completion of this process, proceed to the next step.

"Bed for form"

Now you most likely have a question: “What kind of bed?”. This is a special gypsum base into which the silicone mold will be inserted. A gypsum bed is necessary so that during the manufacturing process of a product in a silicone mold, it retains its original view and not deformed.

The device of the bed begins with the creation of formwork. In my case, rubber plates were used, which I fastened together for tightness masking tape. And on the sides, and from the ends, he pressed it with concrete bricks so that the structure would not part. For greater reliability and sealing, rubber plates are also glued to the base on silicone.

This completes the silicone work. There's a little bad news: the brush you used to brush your pores when you filled them with silicone can now only be thrown away.

The next step is to create a gypsum mixture for the bed

To do this, mix PVA glue with water, which we then add to the gypsum. A little cement is added there to give additional strength. As for the glue, it plays the role of a plasticizer.

The resulting gypsum mixture is poured into our formwork on the product.

In this process, all pores should also be smeared with a brush. flooding gypsum mixture formwork, the resulting layers should be leveled with a spatula.

Finishing touches when making molds for stucco molding

When the gypsum is poured enough, you need to remove excess moisture from its surface. This is done in two ways. The first is slower - to scoop out water.

The second is to make a hole in the corner of the formwork and use a spatula to drive water there, after substituting a bucket.

We give the resulting product time to dry. In my case, it took 24 hours.
When the plaster has thoroughly set, we can evaluate the result of our work for the first time. If something was done wrong, only now you can see it. Therefore, at this stage, you will either be delighted or significantly upset.

The final moment - evaluation of the form for the manufacture of plaster pilasters

We turn the product over with a plaster bed down and out of the silicone mold that we made. Extract the copied pilaster. We do it very carefully, it's still fresh! After we take it out silicone mold.

Leave the bed to dry separately.

Thus, both will dry out faster.

Grease - mold separator

At your request, we supplement our article with information about the grease separator for silicone molds.

Lubrication is of several types:

Release agents for silicone molds

silicone
waxy
oily
soapy

Each type of lubricant has its own advantages.

Silicone Grease

To lubricate the inner walls of stucco molds, you can use a special silicone grease. It is sold in cans and applied by spraying. thin layer on the walls of the form. It is easy to apply. Does not clog the texture of the form itself. One coat of lubricant is usually sufficient to keep the mold from sticking to the material. This is a more convenient but more expensive type of lubricant.

wax lubricant

This lubricant is wax based. Such a separator for stucco is very unpretentious. It has a thicker consistency than its counterparts. The main problem This lubricant is to clog the texture of the mold after each use. That is, it just needs to be washed well after each mold filling. But buying such a lubricant will not hit your wallet. They are also sold in jars and applied with a brush or spray gun.

oil lubrication

This type of lubricant is made from kerosene or ordinary sunflower oil. These are homemade lubricants that are prepared by diluting kerosene with water, or various oils in pure or diluted form. But we do not recommend these types of lubricants as they are toxic and not very convenient to use. They can also damage the shape.

Soap lubricant

most economical and cheap option lubricants for molds, is soap solution. You will spend almost no money on it. He prepare from laundry soap and warm water. The solution is prepared in the ratio 1 * 2.5-3.

1 part finely shaved soap
2-3 parts warm water

Stir the solution thoroughly until the soap is completely dissolved, and place in plastic bottle with a spray bottle. Apply to the form in 2, 3 layers. Before applying each layer, the previous layer must dry.

Drawing conclusions

After a couple of days, you can safely pour the plaster into the mold and make as many copies of the pilasters as you like. Although you spent a lot of money on silicone, now you will make products for a penny, since all the ingredients for making molds for stucco are cheap.

This method is suitable for those who have planned to place in their house or apartment a large number of the same type of stucco. But if you need only two or three identical products, it is better to buy them right away in the store.
I did not indicate the exact proportions in the article intentionally. The fact is that for all manufacturers, gypsum and other components are different. Therefore, each experimentally selects the necessary ratios for himself.
How to make a plaster product, having already finished form, I'll tell you more in the article: "Creating plaster moldings using a silicone mold.

The site site wishes you all successful repairs!

We invite you to watch a fascinating video:

How to make a silicone mold for stucco with your own hands

How to make a silicone mold for molding

Humanity has been familiar with columns for a very long time - at least several millennia, if not tens of thousands of years. Previously, they were used exclusively as supporting structures for the vault, but today their task has changed somewhat - such a thing as decorative columns has appeared, which have become a popular decoration for human housing.

Along with popularity, this element of decor has acquired a very low cost - the manufacture of only one decorative column can result in a decent amount. You can make it cheaper, but it can really be done only at the expense of quality deterioration. There is another option, from which the quality of the column does not suffer at all, but rather wins - this option provides for the independent production of such a decorative element, which will be discussed in this article. Together with the Dream House website, we will consider in detail the options that will allow you to make decorative columns with your own hands, if not simply, then at least not very difficult.

DIY decorative columns photo

Decorative columns: types and their features in manufacturing

Almost all decorative columns that a person uses in one way or another to decorate his living space can be divided into types according to three criteria.

And the third sign by which decorative columns for the interior can be classified is the material from which they are made. It is worth talking about this in more detail, since both the characteristics of the product and the technology of its manufacture depend entirely on the material.

What to make a decorative column with your own hands: materials and their features

The choice of material should be taken responsibly - as mentioned above, the life of the columns and the complexity of their manufacture by one's own hands depend on it. Among the most common materials from which decorative columns are made today, the following types can be distinguished.

Decorative foam column. We can say that this is the cheapest option, but you can not count on the full-fledged production of columns from it. Styrofoam for columns will have to be purchased. This is a kind of fixed formwork in the form of cylinders cut along. They are installed in the right place, after which their internal cavity is poured with concrete - a kind of molds that are not removed after the concrete dries. The technology for making such columns with your own hands seems to be simple, but as for finishing and operation, there are several pitfalls here. Plastering foam is very difficult - this time. And the second drawback is that it is soft (this material is great for stone or mosaic finishing, but not for plastering and painting).
Decorative foam columns photo
Decorative columns made of wood. The option is excellent, especially if you plan to use a lot of wood in the interior of the room. Making high-quality wood columns is not as easy as it might seem at first glance - at least you can’t do it with ordinary home tools. Needed at least lathe, on which the column is sharpened in parts, and they are already assembled into a single product by installing anchors.
Decorative wooden columns photo
Decorative plaster columns. For their manufacture, molds are needed - today this is not a problem at all. Gypsum columns are made by casting, which is very easy to do at home. This is a definite plus this material, but besides it, there are also disadvantages. First of all, this is a complex and painstaking technology for finishing columns, as they say, to condition - a gypsum product is puttied with a very thin layer in order to eliminate various kinds shells formed during the casting process. After that, it is cleaned and only then mounted and painted. By itself, this process is simple, you just need to be patient, especially when it comes to columns of complex configuration, decorated with bas-reliefs. By the way, in almost the same way you can cast columns from concrete.
Decorative columns made of plaster photo
columns from decorative stone. This material is remarkable in that the columns made from it do not require finishing. Of the minuses, one can note the fact that they are not suitable for every interior. In most cases, they look massive and look good only in large rooms. We can say that decorative stone columns are in some way similar to foam plastic columns - both materials are used as fixed formwork. That is, first from a stone by type brickwork a cylindrical formwork is constructed, which is subsequently filled with concrete. If the core of the column is reinforced with metal, then it can also perform load-bearing functions. Styrofoam columns can be reinforced in the same way.

Drywall. Here is another material that can be used to make decorative columns with your own hands. This method of making columns should be discussed separately - oddly enough, but in home repairs it is used most often.

Decorative stone columns photo

How to make decorative plasterboard columns with your own hands

Despite the fact that almost anything can be made from drywall, with classical columns cylindrical shape nevertheless, problems arise - it is very difficult to make them, although it is possible. They are made gradually - in the sense that at first a multifaceted structure is made with many small planes, which are subsequently smoothed out with putty. This business is by no means for home craftsmen - it is serious job requiring capital theoretical and practical skills. It should also be noted here that in many respects the complexity of manufacturing a cylindrical column of drywall depends on its diameter - the thicker the support column, the easier it is to give it a smooth outline.

Another thing - columns rectangular shape or some other angular configuration. They are very easy to make, and they are mounted according to the principle of manufacturing boxes, which are used to mask pipelines and other communications. If we are talking about decorative columns of such a section, then it is better than drywall, the material for their manufacture cannot be invented.

How to make a decorative column with your own hands photo

Decorative columns: finishing options

As you understand, not every material from which modern decorative columns are made can boast of the absence of the need for finishing. And those who have this dignity have an appearance that can please all people. In general, one way or another, the decoration of these interior elements has a place to be and cannot be dispensed with. Finishing technologies not so many, and all of them can be counted on the fingers of one hand.

Painting. The simplest and inexpensive option column decorations. Suitable for almost any type of material - concrete, gypsum, wood, and, of course, plasterboard columns. Only columns made of decorative stone and similar materials are not subject to painting.
Decorative plaster. This option for finishing columns is attractive in that it allows you to give the product a look that is almost one hundred percent similar to the look of natural polished stone - for example, marble, the surface of which is obtained using. For independent implementation this is a very complex type of finish, although not hopeless - if desired, this technology can be easily mastered.
Mosaic. Despite the fact that this good way decorating columns, yet it has one significant drawback - it is far from acceptable for every room. In principle, in some way this moment depends on the type - if it is a small natural pebble, then it is quite possible to use such material for decorating columns in halls, and other similar premises of an apartment or house.

There are other materials for finishing the clone - designers in an attempt to jump over each other vying offer to use a lot non-standard materials. For example, to finish the column, in their opinion, you can use almost any flooring- with the same success, this element of the interior can be draped with fabric. In general, everything here is without restrictions.

And in conclusion of the topic about decorative columns, it remains to add only one thing: to say that the independent production of columns is very laborious process, which will not guarantee that you will really like the end result. If you have already decided that such decor should be in your home, then it is better to turn to professionals about its manufacture. Alternatively, columns can be purchased from ready-made- the most popular in this respect are polyurethane decorative columns that do not require final finishing.

The interior of the apartment often includes elements of the classics. This allows you to make the home extraordinary, give it a certain spirit of romanticism and grace. If the environment contains objects that are not purely applied, but decorative, then it no longer looks boring and monotonous, but as something creative and alive. Such architectural elements how columns and arches have long been used as bearing structures and at the same time decorate the facades of buildings and inner space premises.

Arches and columns are often used in classical style interior

Decorative decoration of arches in your apartment

Columns and arches in the apartment today perform mainly not a supporting, but a decorative function.

An exception is the deliberate use of columns as supports in a large area.

The arch has long been considered the overlapping of the curvilinear shape of the openings in the wall, the spans between the columns and supports

Arches were used not only in the architecture of buildings, but also in the construction of bridges, and as engineering structures they were strictly symmetrical and were calculated according to the strength of materials formulas.

Each part of the arch has its own name. For example:

The cross section of the top is called the capstone
Section near the support - with a heel stone, fifth arch or impost
External fornix - extradosom
Internal fornix - intradosom

Types of arches

Arches in shape can be of the following types:

triangular
Round or semicircular
gently sloping
oblique
Lancet
horseshoe
Planar elliptical parabolic
concave etc

An arch in a blind opening in a wall is called a blind arch..

By style, these types of arches are distinguished:

Arches can be different both in shape and style.

Today, the fashion trend is asymmetrical arches.

Purpose of arches

Arches are used when they want to emphasize the organic design, the dominant smoothness of lines.

This technique is used for:

Building façade and railings
Combining two zones into one
Division into zones
decorations internal elements interior:
niches, windows, doors, mirrors, etc.

Merging two zones into one occurs when removing interior doors :

Arches are used to divide the room into zones

The living room is combined with a corridor or kitchen
Kitchen space - with a loggia

At the same time, the arch visually expands the space, creating a perspective. At the same time, the premises remain separate units.

Arches diversify the design of a long corridor and at the same time also divide it.

original design arched corridor

A rectangular opening in a wall is also considered an arch..

arch materials

For the design of arches, different materials are used.

Arches made of stone, concrete, brick look monumental
Wooden arches are more decorative and create an atmosphere of warmth and comfort.
Both stone and wood are universal material used for both outdoor and interior decoration premises
For interior decoration, you can also use drywall, fiberboard, PVC, chipboard

These types of materials are not used for finishing external arches..

How to make an arch with your own hands

It seems that such a curvilinear structure as an arch is extremely difficult to do with your own hands.

In fact, it is very simple to make it, especially from drywall..

For this you will need:

U-shaped metal profile
Self-tapping screws and dowels
drywall sheet
Drill, jigsaw

Sequencing:

Marking the position of the arch
We fix a metal profile to the wall, ceiling and floor
We strengthen the frame with crossbars so that the drywall does not sag
We cut a piece of the profile for the arch every 2 cm, bend it and screw it to the frame
We cut drywall and sheathe the frame with it on both sides
We cut the upper part for the arch with a jigsaw
We produce putty surfaces and seams

Video: simple arch do it yourself

Columns in the interior of a modern apartment

As we have already said, columns in a city apartment are used mainly for decorative purposes today.

Columns in the interior can be decorative elements, and supporting structures

However, in a loft-style room and wherever there are no partitions, the column can also bear the load..

The upper part of the column is called the capital, the lower part is called the base. The capital may also be decorative ornament ceiling

Columns are made today from materials of this type:

Marble, granite
Brick, concrete
Drywall
Polyurethane

Today, the decoration of columns and arches is also popular. artificial stone or polymer concrete.

Finishing columns with drywall do it yourself

Dry bending drywall sheet

Marble and granite, of course, expensive materials and they have to look for an alternative

columns from light drywall look like the real ones. It doesn’t even come to mind right away that these are empty shells, that is, hollow objects (false columns)

In the manufacture of such columns, the most difficult thing is the frame.

The column can be rectangular or round shape. There is also another variety - pilasters. They refer to the columns conditionally. This is actually half of the column protruding from the wall.

Consider first how to make a rectangular column of drywall.

From metal profile two bases are made (upper and lower)
The contours of the base are compared using plumb lines
The bases are fixed to the ceiling and floor with dowels
Profile racks are attached to the corners of the bases
All sides of the frame are reinforced with crossbars
Then plasterboard is applied and final finishing finishing plaster mixture

Video: Do-it-yourself column decoration

How to make round columns

Round columns made of drywall are made according to the same principle. They are also easy to make with your own hands. But the manufacturing process is more laborious:

First, circles are drawn on the ceiling and floor, also with the help of plumb lines.
Cuts are made on the profile for the bases at a distance of 5 cm
Profiles are combined with circles and fastened with dowels
A sheet of drywall on one side is notched along the entire length, also at a distance of 5 cm between the notches
The finished sheet is bent around the frame, the cuts are sealed with a plaster mixture and left to dry.
Then attach the sheet to the guide profile
Do final finishing, supplementing, if necessary, stucco molding

Polymer concrete in the interior of apartments

Column coated with liquid polymer concrete

What if drywall and stucco are not your favorite type of finish, and you prefer an interior that is more close to the natural style?
Then the columns are not made of drywall, but, for example, made of polymer concrete or artificial stone

The texture of these materials is similar to the texture natural stone- granite.

Polymer concrete (plast cement) - concrete compound, epoxy resin and filler ( quartz sand, granite chips, etc.)

Polymer concrete is much more expensive than conventional concrete.

Finishing the column with polymer concrete

It is easier and cheaper to first make a column of ordinary concrete, and then apply upper layer liquid lightweight polymer concrete.

You can do it like this:

We assemble the bases and the frame in the same way as in the manufacture of drywall columns
(In the bases we make additional crossbars for attaching reinforcement)
We insert reinforcement into the frame and sheathe it with pieces of plywood (in one of the pieces we leave a hole for pouring concrete)
We make concrete pouring
After hardening and drying, remove the plywood
We spray polymer concrete from the plaster gun on top of the column

It is also possible to apply a layer of polymer concrete, for example, on a countertop, on outer wall fireplace, etc.

It is also possible to produce interior items from polymer concrete by pouring into a mold that must be pre-designed.

However, this method is expensive and requires equipment.

What complements the interior in a classic style

Columns and arches in the interior of the apartment are not the only elements in the classic style.

To complement the interior can:

Bas-reliefs and frescoes made of decorative plaster
Items in vintage style:
- antique candlesticks and vases
- Venetian furniture, etc.

Video: Lightweight polymer concrete

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