How to make an overflow from the bottom of the barrel to the top. Collecting rainwater in the country. The use of septic tanks from barrels

Usually, before the onset of cold weather, the barrels are drained and removed to a secluded place, but here we are talking about large metal barrels with a volume of one cubic meter, installed under the roof gutters. Before the onset of cold weather, the barrels are usually already emptied and a small amount of water that gets into them during freezing will not bring harm. But the lingering autumn and a powerful cyclone filled two barrels completely in a week, after the bad weather came very coldy and the threat of losing large barrels from breaking through the ice became real. Attempts to somehow tilt a barrel frozen to the ground weighing more than a ton with their own hands did not lead to anything. But there is always a way out. If you remember physics and communicating vessels, then you can make a simple siphon and empty the barrel.

Instructions on how to drain water

1. We will need a piece of hose 2-3 meters long, the most affordable will be a corrugated plastic hose. The hose must be without damage to the walls and the absence of plugs in it from foreign objects and ice.

2. Attach a load to one end of the hose with your own hands so that the hose, when immersed in the barrel, is closer to the bottom of the barrel.

3. We cut a hole in the ice of the barrel with an ax. The end of the hose with the load must pass through the hole.

4. Lower the hose into the hole. There is a secret here. We lower almost the entire hose under water and observe the appearance of water at the level of the hole in the hose. then with a sharp movement we pull the hose and immediately lower it below the water level - water will begin to flow through the resulting siphon. If pad size allows thumb, you may plug the end of the hose and work more slowly. The main thing is not to wet your hands at -15 ° C.

5. We lower the hose below the bottom of the barrel and wait for the water to drain. Then you can either close the barrel from above or overturn. A small amount of remaining water will not damage the barrel.

6. If several drums need to be drained, the hose should be moved immediately to the next drum to avoid ice blockage. It was the rapidly forming ice that made it difficult to fill the hose in the video with water.

This method of draining water is a full-fledged life hack and is also suitable for barrels of a smaller volume, because when capsizing metal barrel with water, the latter can be deformed, and plastic barrel crack. There is another beneficial effect. If your area is restless, then a barrel of ice along the walls and an ice plug becomes a very difficult object to move before a strong thaw.

Terms homemade pump for pouring water...

To get started, I suggest you watch a video about this homemade:

Probably many people have ever had the problem of pouring water from one vessel to another... Of course, you can simply lift and turn one vessel over another, but... this method is not always good, since the vessel can be large, that is there will be a lot of weight on the container and you simply cannot physically lift the container ...

The second way is to pour, well, for example, in circles ... But this method is also not always good, since, for example, the shape of the vessel may not allow drawing water in circles or any other circumstances ... And then the old proven the way to transfuse liquid is to take a flexible hose, lower one end of the hose into a container of water, and take the other end of the hose into the oral cavity and blow air sharply into yourself ... Pressure will be created and then water will pour out of inertia from one vessel to another until you don't pull the hose... simple physics, but... this method is not very hygienic, besides, under bad circumstances, you can even choke on water... Therefore, this method is quite dangerous...

So, let's begin...

In order to make a pump we need:
- a cap from under a bottle;
- drill and drill 8 mm;
- scissors or knife;
- "neck" of the bottle with a thread;
- flexible hose;
- a small piece of pipe ...

To begin with, remove the gasket from under the cover and cut off its edges as shown in the photo, leaving a small "tail"...

Now carefully put the cut gasket inside the lid and twist it as shown in the photo ... Our cut gasket will serve us as a valve ...

From the other bottle we cut off the “neck” and do something like a turbo water intake ...

Now we put on a flexible hose from the other end of the pipe ...

That's all!!! Our water overflow pump is ready...

Now we lower that side of the pipe where we have the valve into the container with water, and with sharp movements up and down we build up pressure ... Water flows through the valve into the pipe and then into the hose, and from there it already pours out ...

If close to your suburban area there are no centralized sewerage and water supply networks, then for a comfortable stay in the house it is necessary to build an autonomous water supply system and a local treatment plant - a septic tank. Today we will talk about septic tanks. Thanks to them, wastewater will be disposed of in accordance with sanitary standards without harm environment. It is easier and cheaper to make a home-made treatment plant from improvised materials, for example, a septic tank from barrels. The design can be designed for any volume of drains, depending on the number of people living in the house. In our article you will find a description of the nuances of making a cleaning device from this material, and the video at the end of the article will help you understand the process more clearly.

A septic tank from a barrel can be made with your own hands from different materials. The barrel can be plastic or metal. But last option not the best, since the metal quickly corrodes in conditions of constant humidity, so the design will turn out to be short-lived. It is better to make a septic tank for small dacha from polymer containers with a volume of 200-250 liters. If many residents live in your dacha or the building can be used year-round, then the volume of containers should be even larger.

There can be many options for self-construction in the country of water supply and sewerage. So, water supply can be equipped from a well or a well, and the choice of septic tank design depends on the characteristics of the effluents, hydrogeological conditions on the site and the required quality of cleaning Wastewater. A septic tank from barrels can be:

• Single chamber. This homemade septic tank, in fact, is the usual cesspool. It can be with or without a bottom, depending on the type of soil and the level of standing groundwater. Wastewater from the sewerage system enters the tank, where it is either pumped out by sewers as it accumulates, or filtered into the ground through a special layer of gravel and crushed stone at the bottom. Such a septic tank is suitable for a shower or bath without a toilet. The thing is that this septic tank will not harm the environment, only if fecal sewage does not get into it.

Important: structures without a bottom can only be used on sandy soils with good absorption capacity. On the clay soils drains using drainage pump after settling, they are pumped into the filtration well.

• Two-chamber. A septic tank of two containers is more perfect. For a small cottage, two barrels of 200 liters are enough. Drains immediately from the sewer enter the first chamber, where they settle, as a result of which the heavy components settle to the bottom. In the second chamber, the clarified waters undergo a post-treatment process. A septic tank of two containers can be made with a bottom in both chambers or only in the first of them. Then a filtering layer is arranged at the bottom of the second chamber, and water is discharged into the ground.
• Three-chamber. Most the best option- sewerage for a summer residence from three containers with a volume of 200-250 liters each. In this design, the necessary degree of wastewater treatment is achieved, which does not contradict sanitary standards. Such effluents can be discharged into the ground without the risk of environmental degradation. Drainage from the sewerage is settled in the first chamber. Then the pre-treated waters flow into the second compartment, where their post-treatment is carried out by the biological method. There is also a small precipitate of small impurities. Only then the purified water enters the filtration chamber, where it is discharged through a layer at the bottom into the ground.

Requirements for a septic tank

To build an effective septic tank with your own hands from barrels, you must adhere to the following rules:

• For high-quality wastewater treatment, the septic tank must be multi-chamber. As you understand, single-chamber septic tanks are contrary to sanitary standards. In a multi-chamber design, the effluents in the first compartment undergo mechanical cleaning under the action of gravitational forces, and in the second chamber, due to microorganisms, they are split organic compounds. In the last filtration chamber, the final post-treatment of the liquid takes place, and the effluents are discharged into the ground.
• The septic tank from the barrel must be completely sealed, with the exception of the bottom of the last chamber. This is the only way to guarantee the safety of the entire structure.
• When choosing a place for a septic tank, it is worth adhering to the standard distances. So, from the source where the water for the water supply is taken, it should be at least 15 m. It is worth retreating at least 5 m from the foundation of the house. You should not lay sewer pipes near the water supply. The septic tank should be located at a distance of 1-2 meters from roadways and parking lots.

Tip: do not place the treatment plant too far from the house, as there will be problems with observing the slope of the sewer pipes. As a result, it may turn out that they enter the treatment plant at a very great depth, so the septic tank will have to be deeply buried in the ground.

• It is necessary to correctly determine the dimensions of all containers treatment plant. The volume of the first chamber of the sump should be equal to the volume of the daily discharge, which is determined from the fact that one tenant consumes 200 liters of water from the water supply per day. This number must be multiplied by the number of residents and by 3 (so many days the drains are in the septic tank). As a result, we get the working volume of the septic tank. The actual volume is usually a little more, but not less.

Necessary materials

After performing preliminary calculations - determining the volume of the septic tank, the length of the sewer pipeline, the hydrogeological state of the soil, the depth of freezing, the dimensions of the pit and the required slope - you can begin to build a septic tank from plastic barrels.

For work you will need the following materials:

• Two or three barrels of polymer material volume of 200 liters or more. In addition, you will need a plastic corrugated pipe or another barrel for the well.
• To close the barrels from above, it is worth taking three sewer covers (also made of plastic).
• Pipes for sewerage with a diameter of 110 mm. The length must be determined from the distance from the house to the septic tank plus a couple of meters of stock.
• Ventilation pipe with a cap with a diameter of 110 mm. The length of the pipe is not more than 1.5 m.
• Angle fittings and tees for the diameter of the pipes used.
• Flanges and couplings.
• Small crushed stone with a fraction of elements not more than 40 mm.
• Sand.
• Adhesive for joining PVC elements.
• Epoxy based sealant.
• Rubber seals for sealing the entry of pipes into the septic tank.
• Cord and pegs.
• Shovel.
• Roulette.
• Bulgarian.
• Level.

If in your area ground water stand very high, then the bottom of the pit will have to be concreted. For this you will need cement-sand mixture, electric mixer, mixing tank, fittings and steel cables for fixing barrels at the bottom.

If the soil is loose, then the walls of the pit will need to be strengthened wooden formwork or steel fine mesh. To insulate the treatment plant and sewer pipeline, you will need mineral wool for pipes, foam plastic or foam plastic for a sewage treatment plant.

Mounting

Before the beginning earthworks need to get out of the house sewer pipe. It is from this place that you will dig a trench with a slope to the septic tank. Next, we make a septic tank from a barrel in the following sequence:

1. From the place where the sewer is removed from the house, we dig a trench 1 m wide to the place where the septic tank is installed. At the same time, we make the slope of the bottom of the trench taking into account 2 cm of difference for each meter of length. Under the septic tank, we dig a pit. Its dimensions must be 20 cm larger than the size of the barrels. At the bottom of the pit, we make ledges 10 cm high to install each communicating container on different depth. The first camera will be at the top.
2. Since the septic tank has impressive dimensions, but low weight, groundwater can easily raise the tank to the surface. To prevent this from happening, a concrete pad is made at the bottom of the pit. To do this, first knead cement-sand mortar, then at the bottom of the pit, sand cushion 10 cm high. It is leveled and rammed. After that, a reinforcing mesh with outlets for fastening the septic tank is laid at the bottom. The bottom is poured with a layer of concrete 150-200 mm high.
3. After the concrete pad has hardened, you can proceed with the installation of the barrels. Each barrel is mounted on a separate step so that the next container is 10 cm lower. There should be a distance of 100-150 mm between the chambers. We attach the barrels to the outlets of the reinforcement in the bottom with a steel cable.
4. In the first chamber, at the desired height, we cut a hole for the supply pipeline with a diameter of 110 mm. We put a rubber seal in the hole and additionally seal it with mastic. Now insert the tee into the resulting hole. Then we connect the supply sewer pipe and ventilation to it.
5. At a height below 100 mm from the first hole on the other side of the first barrel, we make another hole for overflow. It is also sealed rubber seal and insert the corner fitting.
6. We cover the first barrel with a lid and install a ventilation pipe.
7. Now cut a hole on the side of the second chamber and insert the corner fitting into it. We seal the hole rubber gasket. We connect two daughters with fittings with an overflow pipe.
8. FROM reverse side the second container, we make a hole at the level of the middle of the barrel to install an overflow into the third chamber. We install the cover.
9. The third chamber is a sealed well with an overflow hole from the second chamber. We connect the second and third chambers with a pipe. We mount the cover. If instead of the third camera will be used drainage well, then for its arrangement it is necessary to take corrugated pipe with a diameter of 1 m. An overflow hole is cut in its wall, and a gravel-sand layer 300 mm high is arranged at the bottom. It is better to lay a layer of geotextile under the layer. Through it, water will be filtered into the ground.
10. Backfilling of the septic tank is carried out with alternating layers of sand and concrete. After making a layer 200-300 mm thick, it is wetted with water and rammed.

Important: as the backfill is completed, the barrels must be filled with water 20-30 cm above the backfill level. This will protect the septic tank design from deformation under soil pressure.

1. The upper part of the treatment plant is insulated with foam plastic and backfilled. Only manhole covers and ventilation pipes should remain above the ground.

Video guide for the construction of a septic tank from barrels:

In any household there are several of them. They are also used to heat and ventilate water from wells and wells ( cold water you can't water the garden). And to collect "free" rainwater.

There are such rain barrels at each drain drains. But they stand, as a rule, on their own, each one alone. And drains collect water very unevenly. One barrel, even after a little rain, is full, full, and overflows. And the other - barely covered the bottom with water, and you can’t scoop it up with a bucket. Another drawback of such “individualism” is that one barrel is closer to the garden, the other is farther ... I scooped out one - stomp around the house with a watering can. You can’t put the pump in a barrel - the water will run out - and drag the hoses, wires to another, and then to a third. That would be to combine all the barrels in one container. Then the pump can be placed in the closest to the garden, and the water will not be wasted.

The easiest way to do this is to connect all the barrels with a hose like communicating vessels. In each barrel, make a hole at the bottom, cut (paste, weld, screw) a fitting into it, attach a hose to the fitting and connect all the barrels through tees into a single container. It would seem that everything is simple, but there is one “But”. Well, what zealous summer resident will allow holes to be made in a barrel? Yes, even at the very bottom! But is it enough for what other purposes it will be needed? There will be a problem to plug this "hole" somehow, and reliably.

But there is another option for combining barrels - with the help of the so-called. siphon. The siphon is a "U"-shaped tube. One end is dipped into the liquid. As long as the liquid level does not exceed the highest part of the siphon, it does not flow through it. But as soon as the level rises above the siphon, the air is squeezed out of it (under the pressure of the liquid) and it is completely filled with liquid. And after that, the liquid level can decrease, and our vessels still remain connected in the same way as the communicating ones.

If we connect the barrels with siphons, what will it give us? Firstly, in the barrel you do not need to make a hole at the bottom, but you can make it almost at the very top. Thus, we practically do not “spoil” the barrel, but leave it in service. At any time, we can “disconnect” it from the system and use it for another purpose. Secondly, the barrels are combined automatically, as any of them overflows. The barrel that was filled first “connects” the second to itself, then the third will connect to the first two, and so on. How many barrels you have - so many and combine. And then it will start to overflow only if they are all full and there really is nowhere to put the water.

How will United Barrels work? In a barrel into which water is poured most intensively, it will raise the water level to the top of the siphon before others. The siphon will fill up and water will flow into another barrel. The levels of both barrels will equalize and will now rise in sync. (and two barrels hold twice as much water as one). When the second barrel is full, its siphon will also work and connect the third barrel, etc.

Now what will happen with the flow of water. If a pump is installed in one of the barrels, then the water level in it will fall. But it will also fall in other connected barrels. And in those barrels that are not connected, it will remain at the same level. When the level drops to the bottom edge of the siphon tube, the barrel will “disconnect” from the system.

What can a siphon be made of? The easiest way is from a plastic rigid tube, bending it 180 degrees. You can, of course, bend and metal. You can also assemble a siphon from two plumbing "turns" by 90 degrees. To seal the “siphon-barrel” connection, we use flanges, sealants, epoxy resin etc. On the other end of the siphon, which is inside the barrel, we put on a piece of hose “almost to the bottom”, on the other - connecting hose to another barrel.

Now we need to "configure" the barrels in the system. After all, it is unlikely that they all stand at the same level relative to the ground. We determine which of our barrels fills up the earliest when it rains (or where it is easiest to pour water from a well or a well) - “donor barrel”. We also determine the barrel from which it is most convenient to take water for irrigation (with a pump or buckets - watering cans) - “barrel - analysis”. It is most convenient when it will be the same barrel. Then, even with a little rain, the water will not spread over all the barrels, but will accumulate in one to the maximum possible level. And only when overflowing connect the second barrel.

By adjusting the level of the siphon, we determine the order in which the barrels are connected. In each next barrel, the "output" siphon should be located just below the "input". Then the barrels will be connected really in series.

Barrels do not have to be connected in series, so as not to make 2 siphons in a barrel. It is also possible in parallel, branching the connecting hose with tees. True, in this case we will lose the effect of “maximum high level water" in a collapsible barrel.

This is how you can connect rain barrels in single system and not lose precious rainwater when they overflow.

Including rain water. For example, it is perfect for watering the garden. And this can be done with the help of an ordinary barrel, properly equipped.

Materials and tools:

1. Barrel.
2. Wooden bars.
3. Polymer pipes.
4. A pipe that is suitable for collecting rainwater.
5. Silicone sealant.
6. Ball valve 5 cm.
7. Self-tapping screws.
8. Nuts, screws.
9. Screwdriver.
10. Saw.
11. Pencil.
12. Roulette.

Operating procedure:

The first and main step is to choose suitable surface to install the barrel. It should be even and well compacted. The size is also required appropriate. If the ground is soft, it is recommended to install wooden substrate in the form of a shield.

You should take care of the stand in advance - you can’t raise the barrel without it. You can make such a device from bars and scraps of wood, knocking them together like a stool.

It is recommended to carefully check the barrel for cleanliness and safety for health before use in the desired quality. If it previously served as a repository hazardous substances, use is prohibited. If everything is in order, a small hole is cut out at the bottom. The hole diameter depends on the fitting you plan to use. A little higher, another hole of the same diameter is cut.

Fittings are fixed on the barrel with glue. The bonding point is recommended to be additionally treated with silicone sealant.

A tap for the bottom drain is attached to the bottom. Next, the upper and lower holes are connected using polypropylene pipe. Thus, the barrel is protected from overfilling even in heavy rains.

In order to collect water, you need to install an appropriate pipe. It is attached to the top of the barrel. From time to time it will be necessary to ensure that both the pipe and the barrel are not contaminated with leaves.

The final step is to connect the hoses. To ensure uniform watering, they are perforated in several places in the form of small holes.

Such a system is very convenient in that it is collapsible. This means that during frosts it can be easily untwisted. In addition, the cleaning process will not cause much trouble.

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