How to make a torch in Minecraft, and what is it for? How to make a torch from a wine bottle, wick to it and change the color of the fire Smoke torch and skillful pens

sych.v 11-12-2013 15:19

Gentlemen, very often in films they show torches that burn with an even, smokeless fire, like a big candle, how do they do it? Or how to make a torch from improvised materials that will burn brightly, practically without smoke, and most importantly for a long time? There are many recipes on the Internet, I would like to listen to practitioners.

Taraz999 11-12-2013 15:26

the lantern burns brightly and without smoke
advice from a practitioner

almost anonymous 11-12-2013 15:29

quote: art films show torches that burn with an even, smokeless fire, like a large candle

I also wonder

Taraz999 11-12-2013 15:32

quote: I also wonder

Sabalaq 11-12-2013 15:36

Evgeny Sartinov_Gold on blood

".... Before that, you will pass through the gorge, it goes like a snake, well, and then
and see the cave. Don't forget to stock up on torches. I've brought you resin, - she touched a birch bark with a lid. - My grandfather said, he translated fifteen torches while passing through the cave .....

In the morning we finished the meat we had cooked in the evening, and then stocked up on torches for another hour. Andrey cut down suitable branches, and I, having put a tuesok with resin closer to the fire, smeared them with viscous resin.
Pelageya spoke about fifteen torches, just in case, we stocked up with twenty ....

Yurka, we're out! Get out, damn it! the Lieutenant yelled enthusiastically, putting his arm around my shoulders and shaking me like a sack of potatoes. Then he neighed at the top of his lungs, pointing his finger at me. I didn't owe anything either. From the smoke of torches we were sooty like two Ethiopians.
- Hello, Uncle Tom! I announced, shaking the Lieutenant's hand. - How is your hut?
- Burned to the ground in FIG, - politely replied the newly-minted Negro. - And how are things in your historical homeland, my dear Muganba?
- It sucks. Yesterday we ate the last banana without salt.
Having washed our faces with snow, we went further, to the plain taiga that so attracted us. We were fed up with the mountains.....

Taraz999 11-12-2013 15:40

quote: are you hinting?

yeah
some movie burners
gas or alcohol
I don't know though, guess

atadracula 11-12-2013 15:54

Impregnation ... fat, oil or any combustible crap, a "broom" in the forest ...

atadracula 11-12-2013 16:02

quote: Originally posted by almost anonymous:
are you hinting?

m_mbembe 11-12-2013 16:07

I always did it simply: I cut a stick from any bush, wind a rag, for example, a dirty sock, I fix it with two wire clamps. then I go where I want. on the spot before kindling directly, I pour a little liquid of any combustible so that it does not drip, and burn, and go further into the darkness, where I need to. only sometimes it becomes stuffy from the torch, and then I am soaked all over with soot.
make a torch that burns the way the TC wants - either impossible (mutually exclusive paragraphs), or very expensive and uninteresting.

markoff74 11-12-2013 16:16

very often in art films they show torches that burn with an even smokeless fire, like a big candle

You don't see that in the movies.
The ammo doesn't run out there.
And the protagonist comes out of the fire unburnt.
The script, however

sych.v 11-12-2013 16:16

No, so any combustible liquid can soak a rag and go. But it will quickly burn out ... But how to make the "bump" on the stick burn steadily for 20-30 minutes and smoke moderately? Or not real?

sych.v 11-12-2013 16:21

quote: You don't see that in the movies.

I agree here, I think they use alcohol, but in the Middle Ages a person probably achieved perfection in this matter using, by the way, the most simple materials Does anyone know what they used back then? Butter? Fat? Are there old recipes?

Odvokat P11001 11-12-2013 16:42

you can make a good torch from a long piece of plexiglass, it burns evenly, for a long time, though it smokes a little

almost anonymous 11-12-2013 16:48

quote: And how to make the "bump" on the stick burn steadily for 20-30 minutes and smoke moderately? Or not real?

for sale - 20 rubles worth. Rope wrapped around cardboard tube and impregnated with paraffin. Burns for more than 20 minutes.

sych.v 11-12-2013 17:03

Here's what they say on the internet
five parts beeswax

This economy is impregnated with a tow torch.

A lot of light, a pleasant smell, a view from a distance - a fire.

Wax can be replaced with paraffin so that you don’t run around the markets, but I think everyone has rosin left, replace the tow with a bandage, it will be possible to stir up on the weekend.)

Stag beetle 11-12-2013 17:04

I remember that in childhood we made torches to climb into caves. The birch bark is 15-20 cm wide and, as thick as possible, is wound on a raw, freshly cut thick stick. To hold on tight, it heats up over a fire. It is important to warm up the first layers well - then the birch bark "clings" to the stick better and does not need to be fixed with anything. The more layers of birch bark, the longer it burns. You can do it easier: insert birch bark into a split stick and update as needed. However, this is a much less convenient option.

Stag beetle 11-12-2013 17:10

quote: One part vegetable oil (suppose linseed
Five parts beeswax
Four parts of rosin (most affordable option wood resin)
Heat in a water bath and mix.
This economy is impregnated with a tow torch.

it will probably be much easier and cheaper to stock up on a lantern than to cook such a mixture ...

sych.v 11-12-2013 17:14

We walked through the dungeons of Koenigsberg with oil or fuel filters worn on a stick. trucks They were made out of paper back then. An ideal thing, both in form and content, it burns for a long time and smokes moderately, the most important thing was the sea under the fence of any motorcade.

sych.v 11-12-2013 17:21

quote: it will probably be much easier and cheaper to stock up on a lantern than to cook such a mixture ...

This is like one of the options, otherwise any kid will choose a torch at night in nature ...))) Why not give your son such a gift, take everything and cook right on the hunt or fishing in the evening?)

DON MIGUEL 11-12-2013 17:26

quote: Originally posted by sych.v:
We walked through the dungeons of Koenigsberg with oil or fuel filters from trucks put on a stick, they were made of paper then. An ideal thing, both in form and content, it burns for a long time and smokes moderately, the most important thing was the sea under the fence of any motorcade.

Almost an analogue ... When we arrived at the pioneer age, we made torches like this:
a tin can was nailed to the handle, an old filter was inserted into it and clogged with paraffin honestly pioneered from the medical room ... It burned for a very long time - it was enough for the solemn line, for the transition to the fire meadow, for the solemn lighting of the fire and for burning around the meadow ...

SpongeBob 11-12-2013 17:49

General requirements:
fresh-green stick so that it does not burn itself (well rowan)
screen protector or winding that would not drip and flow down the handle.

dmr110 11-12-2013 20:17

We made from a stick, rags and gasoline drained from my father's motorcycle. They explored the basement of a five-story building. It was smoky in the hallways

kvaserfirst 11-12-2013 21:46

A jar on a stick stuffed with rags and soaked in a wonderful liquid called "type cleaner" A two hundred gram vial, the price of a penny in stationery. Practically does not give a smoke, the fire does not burn.
Being poured onto a dried-up slop behind a garbage chute in the entrance and set on fire, it almost brought us to a lynching for a chemical attack.

kvaserfirst 11-12-2013 21:50

From professional fireshowers I heard the word "korza" or "korsa", Google does not know. By the smell of this very "type cleaner"

HP-43 11-12-2013 22:28

A little reenactment from the forum:

quote: Impregnation composition: wax + rosin (resin) in equal proportions. The wind can really bring down the flame, but if the torch has previously flared up well, it then flares up again. Extinguishing such torches is not easy.

quote: Why was tow chosen? Here, perhaps, it is worth experimenting with materials? For example, cotton, as far as I know, has a very good properties by decay. By the way, the most difficult-to-extinguish torches (extinguishable by the wind and then flaring up again) were obtained by me using ribbons of coarse cotton fabric. That's exactly what happened there: strong wind knocked down an open flame, but the smoldering threads continued "inside" the torch, and as soon as the wind subsided, burning with an open flame resumed

And better in the topic itself:
http://www.tforum.info/forum/i...0%BB#entry32449

HP-43 11-12-2013 22:30

1) Materials.
It is better to make a torch on a stick 2-5 cm in diameter.
For winding, you can use tow or cotton fabric (cut into ribbons). I use cotton fabric. Tow is sold in construction stores and markets, cotton fabric - in fabric and workwear (special fabrics) stores.
Wax is usually sold in the same place as honey. In Moscow, we bought wax in several pavilions selling honey at the All-Russian Exhibition Center (formerly VDNKh).
It is more convenient to buy rosin in stores for goods for radio amateurs and the electronics industry, and not in ordinary household ones. Best in large packaging, approximately 100 grams each (significant savings compared to purchasing small jars).
Some hemp rope or twine.

2) Tools.
The resulting mixture will be quite sticky and difficult to wash off. It is liquid only when heated. Ideally, it is better to take dishes that are not a pity and constantly use them only for preparing a flare mixture.
You also need something like tweezers or tongs.

3) Safety precautions in the manufacture of torches.
- Be careful and careful when grinding wax and cutting ribbons when working with cutting tools and when grinding rosin - do not get hurt and do not injure yourself.
- Work is carried out with a heated mixture, if it gets on unprotected parts of the body, a burn is possible. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting hot mixture in your eyes. When melting the mixture and keeping it liquid, follow the standard for your heating element security measures. Don't forget to turn it off when you're done.
- For the first time, it is better to cover the floor in front of the stove and everything that is nearby with newspapers or film. Keep flammable films and newspapers away from the heating element.
- Wear protective clothing as you may splash yourself.

4) Process.
It is easy to guess that wax and rosin melt faster if they are first crushed: wax is easily cut with a heated knife, rosin can be put in a tight plastic bag and crushed with a hammer or other hard object - it is quite fragile.
I usually do the initial heating and melting directly on the heat source (aka a pot on the stove). When the mixture is melted to a homogeneous state (the process will go faster if the mixture is stirred at the same time). It can be placed on water bath or simply on the edge of the heating element for the sole purpose of preventing thickening - otherwise you will have to melt again. So, we immerse the fabric tape into the molten liquid mixture. Achieve complete wetting. It is more convenient to lay the tape not in a lump, but according to the principle of an accordion made of paper. When the fabric is saturated, we take out the tip of the tape with tongs, wrap it around the stick and turn the stick evenly, wind the fabric onto the future torch. When winding, you need to try not to leave excess mixture on the torch. Otherwise, the burning torch will drip heavily. Having wound a sufficient number of tapes (with a fabric width of 1.5 meters, a strip width of 4-5 cm and a winding zone width of 10-15 cm, I wind 3-4 strips on one torch - the torch burns for about 30-40 minutes). Then, on top, you need to tightly wrap a dry tape (next in line for impregnation) and strongly compress the torch with your hands. The wound tape will absorb all the excess mixture.
About 10 cm below the edge of the fabric, I wind several turns of hemp rope or twine around the torch. This is done so that if a few drops of excess mixture during combustion flow along the handle of the torch, save your hands from burning.

Ignition of torches can be facilitated by first burning the surface of the torch in a flame to a uniform deep black color. This can save a few minutes when lighting a torch.
We usually prepare torches in this way two to three hours before the intended use.

5. Safety precautions when using. When using torches, safety requirements must be observed. Keep a lit torch away from trees, grass, flammable objects and people. Beware of burns: you can not only burn yourself, but also burn others. Always (!) fill an extinguished torch with water - even in the absence of an open flame, it can smolder for a very long time.

sych.v 11-12-2013 22:36

It's time to upload photo and video reports.))) On Sunday I will have time to do it, everything seems to be there, I'll try vegetable oil ...

narkad 11-12-2013 23:11

quote: Originally posted by sych.v:

I'll try vegetable oil...

Take unrefined, it will be tastier!

------------------
I'm always ready to learn, but I don't always like being taught

13mm 11-12-2013 23:24

Complete with torches, you also need pitchforks and armfuls of dry hay or straw!

In general, I do not understand how a torch can illuminate something. If they hold it in front of them or in the field of view so as not to set something on fire to them, then nothing is visible except the fire. In my opinion, torches are much more convenient to set fire to.
And I take into account how many ingredients you need to BUY to make torches, it’s easier to buy a lantern anyway. Even if it's kerosene...

By the way, in one book I remember that one guy stupidly stocked up with trunks of "resinous Christmas trees" before going to the cave. Has anyone tried this?

BUT tin cans with wicks on sticks can be considered a torch?

Yari 12-12-2013 12:31

If you pour oil for kerosene lamps into a jar, then it’s quite ...

We usually just wound cotton cloth around sticks, soaking it with lamp oil. Such torches burn well, almost without smoke, but for a relatively short time - 15-20 minutes maximum. A mixture of wax and rosin is much more durable ...

Giovanni 12-12-2013 12:57

If you cook ahead of time, then roll toilet paper dip into melted wax or paraffin, saturate, put on any stake
From personal experience- lit more than an hour exactly

Giovanni 12-12-2013 13:16

firemen impregnate asbestos cloth or cord with watsprit or kerosene

sych.v 12-12-2013 13:53

quote: asbestos cloth

There is a spool of asbestos cord in the basement with a ten-liter bucket, I wanted to throw it away for copper from sin, now I’ll definitely leave it.))

atadracula 12-12-2013 14:31

A tablet of dry alcohol, no longer a torch ...? Torch, this is from lack of fish and is made from what is under your feet)))

almost anonymous 12-12-2013 14:42

quote: A tablet of dry alcohol, no longer a torch ...?

she doesn't shine.
if only to leave it as an ignition to kindle the tar / paraffin

13mm 12-12-2013 17:37

Well, you can keep the shit for yourself, but here is a dry wooden stick in which one end burns, and you can hold it behind the other and there is a simple torch.

ShamanVudu 12-12-2013 20:18

quote: Originally posted by Giovanni:
firemen impregnate asbestos cloth or cord with watsprit or kerosene

They also use (eat) special ways of winding maces and knots for poi. But pure kerosene quickly burns out, therefore it is body-bound with liquid paraffins (lighter fluid is possible). Or take a solarium. Not as bright and smokey, but burns several times longer. For a torch, the option with paraffin and rosin is more correct. If you put a piece of hemp rope into the windings so that the ends stick out, it will be much easier and faster to light, even without firing to blackness.

Since childhood I wanted do good torch . I tried it once and it didn't work out the way I wanted. Has since dropped it. And here again the question: “How to make a good torch from improvised means at home?” So we answer fully and taking into account personal experience, we replenish the section "Needlework" and subsection ""

Torch - a lamp for long burning in any weather (such as wind, rain, snow, hail, hurricane, caves, ruins, etc.). Well, since soon (and the celebration of New Year's Eve), resistance to snow is also desirable - so that you can have a good time waving torches at the New Year's Eve. So a good torch:

• a) does not drip hot on hands / does not splash fuel when waving (and you will want to wave a torch 🙂)
• b) does not go out in the wind / waving and, if possible, in the rain.

On the contrary, a good torch:

1. beautifully lit
2. Burns for a long time (as long as needed)
3. Safe
4. From improvised means.

Having determined the "goodness" of the torch, let's move on to achieving it.

Torch components:

• holder (stick 2-4 cm in diameter and at least half a meter in length)
• low flammable / non-flammable base
• combustible mixture
• what holds the base on the stick (retainer)

The principle of operation is like a lamp: the fuel gradually goes to the fire through the base and gives light with warmth.

How to Make a Bad Torch (Don't Do This)

Immediately about the mistake: I took too combustible base (ordinary fabric), too combustible fuel (oil and gasoline), blotted it badly and wound the wire to the stick not very firmly.

As a result:

1. Oil drips.
2. The fabric burns out.
3. Wire very bad hold burnt tissue.
4. The fabric flies off when swung (well, that's safe).

So don't make torches like that 🙂

How to make a good torch at home

Torch materials

So, you need:

1. Maximum non-combustible base.
2. Fuel minimum.
3. Maximum fixation of the base on a stick.

Now about practice. Base material:

• asbestos fabric (the plus is that it can be used repeatedly as the fuel burns out, the minus is that it is not very convenient to wind it),
• tightly twisted or stitched fabric,
• tow,
• hemp ropes,
• sackcloth
• felt.

Important: synthetics melt, drip on hands and friends. Therefore, polyethylene is not a torch. Even though it's on fire.

The thicker and denser the winding of the base, the longer burning. Tow is available in construction, plumbing stores and markets, fabric - in fabric and workwear stores.

fuel material:

1. Machine oil
2. Kerosene, petrol
3. Vegetable oil
4. Paraffin / candles
5. 1 kg of wax per 100 g of stearin
6. Pine resin (aka rosin): paraffin wax (1: 1)
7. Mix for a good fire with pleasant smell: one part vegetable oil; five parts beeswax / paraffin; four parts of rosin; heat in a water bath and mix (the mixture is sticky, difficult to wash off; liquid only hot).
8. A mixture that is sufficiently resistant to water: 1 part of kerosene; 1 part rubber-based adhesive; a couple of tablespoons liquid soap; shake thoroughly.

Rosin - in shops for radio amateurs. Wax can usually be bought from those who sell honey. Kerosene - from hardware store; not solar.

Fixing material: steel wire.

Holder material: good thick stick (thin stick burns quickly). A good option stick preparation on video:

The branch is thin. A thicker stick is better. But for the experiment, this one will do. A big plus is that this way the wire will hold the base on the stick better than simple winding.

The procedure for making a good torch with your own hands

First approach how to make a torch:

1. Wrap as tightly as possible.
2. Dip for a long time in a container for impregnation, rinse to squeeze out air
3. Squeeze carefully.

The second approach to making a torch:

1. Soak loose material.
2. Squeeze out unwound material.
3. Wrap on a stick.

The second option is more to your liking, it is easier to manage the amount of fuel and remove excess; impregnation is also better (no air bubbles, etc.).

Tip: after winding, cover with a layer of dry cloth and wring out very well. Almost guaranteed there will be no drops of fuel.

Most home version creating a torch (considering that asbestos, rosin, etc. still need to be bought):

1. Cut several candles lengthwise into thin strips.
2. Wrap the fabric very tightly to the stick, laying strips from candles.
3. Compress, melt a little, compress again - until it stops.
4. Ignite with pleasure, but long.

There is advice to add a little potassium nitrate to the paraffin for quick ignition. I don't know, haven't tried it. Sounds kind of explosive.

And finally the easiest way to make a torch: split the stick, insert a piece of kindling for the fire into the split. Set fire.

Simple, fast, minimum hassle, maximum fire safety. The most it is for children 🙂

Tip: The ignition of the torch can be accelerated by pre-burning the torch to a uniform, deep black. This can save a few minutes during ignition.

So, a good torch with your own hands and at home is EASY to make.

Especially if you have everything you need at home 🙂

Based on materials from http://tgorod.go.ru/cgi-bin/board/topic.cgi?forum=11&topic=73 and http://www.tforum.info/forum/index.php?showtopic=2038

What is better as a light source - a torch or? Of course, the latter is more pragmatic, and safer if you are going to use it during a night walk through the forest. However, any flashlight has a drawback: sometimes its battery is discharged at the very wrong moment. And then you have to solve the problem with lighting literally on the go ... picked up a stick from the ground, set it on fire ... oh, something is not set on fire! What to do?!

In fairness, even if you always have two or three excellent lanterns in your hiking backpack, being able to quickly make a torch with your own hands from improvised materials is useful. It can always come in handy, BUT you should not forget about precautions. Still open fire is a source of danger, therefore, it is highly not recommended to use home-made torches in dry conditions in the steppe: one random spark, and the fire on the sun-dried grass will “run” at a terrible speed. And also in closed unventilated rooms (in abandoned bunkers, for example ... hello!), in coniferous forests and on peatlands.

The easiest way to make a torch with your own hands: find a dry branch of any coniferous tree, split one end with a knife, stick a few needles into the resulting "brush" - you're done, you can set it on fire. The secret is that spruce (pine, cedar, juniper) wood is impregnated with flammable resin. Thin chips are made from one match. Such a torch can burn up to half an hour, giving light, it will not spark and drip. But it is not resistant to wind and moisture.

To get a more stable light source that can be used in any weather, you have to work on it ahead of time, at home. How to make a good torch at home? You will need:

• Half a meter of steel pipe with a diameter of ~ 2cm
• Strip of asbestos fabric 100x10 cm or 2-3 m of asbestos cord
• Meter of thick steel wire

Asbestos is tightly wound on one end of the pipe, fixed with wire. Congratulations, you've made it absolutely non-flammable torch! In order for it to burn, impregnation is needed - some kind of flammable liquid. There are many options, my personal preference - vegetable oil. Why? It is always at hand, unlike rosin, wax and kerosene. When burning, it does not smoke much, does not spark and does not stink. And if you soak the winding right, then it does not drip.

That's right - how is it? pouring sunflower oil(preferably unrefined) in a jar. We lower the “head” of the torch there so that the winding is completely immersed in the liquid. We are waiting for half an hour. Can be more. Then we take it out, wrap it with rags and wait another hour. The rag absorbs the remaining oil, and as a result we get a semi-dry torch, already suitable for use. Completely dry is fine too. But you should not light the winding, which literally oozes liquid - the oil will flow onto your hands.

Does it heat up steel pipe during the burning of the torch? Yes. Sometimes even significantly. And I would recommend protecting your hand with a leather glove, or make a comfortable winding of the free end with elastic leather tape.

Another production option simple torch in field conditions . You will need an empty Glass bottle, some fuel (for example, alcohol - it is always in a tourist first-aid kit), a piece of rope or a rag as a wick. NOT synthetic! 10% of the volume of the bottle is filled with flammable liquid. The wick is impregnated with it and inserted into the bottle so that it reaches the bottom. They set it on fire. Ready. It is very easy and fast, but it is categorically not recommended to drop such a torch, turn it over ... it is also better not to hold it in your hands without special need - to put it on flat surface and keep out of the wind.

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situations in which you may need good torch, a bunch of. The most banal thing is the complete absence of electricity, but the area needs to be illuminated with something. Or you need to explore some cave, but there is no flashlight. Or just make a thing that burns and that can.

Hence, the main properties are indeed good torch: burns for a long time, nothing and does not fly off in the process, it is simply manufactured, it burns regardless of external conditions. It is clear that without the necessary skills, all this is extremely difficult. But, as practice shows, there is nothing particularly difficult in the manufacture of torches. You just need to remember a few nuances. So.

General

good torch consists of several parts - combustible material, combustible impregnation, non-combustible fixative and non-combustible stick. Ideally, the retainer and stick will not react to fire at all, making them reusable and making it much easier to reassemble torches. But this is ideal. In principle, you can do without impregnation - the material will burn on its own, but this will happen more slowly, there will be no strong fire, and there is a high chance that the burnt pieces will fall off. You can also do without a retainer, but then there is a risk that the burnt tissue can slide down and burn your hand.

Material

Absolutely any fabric is suitable as a material. But there are tricks here. If you take asbestos fabric, which is positioned as absolutely non-combustible, and at the same time impregnate it with something that burns well, the burning process of the torch will be VERY long. What we need. Tow, felt and burlap work a little worse in this regard. As for ordinary textiles, it burns too quickly. It is better not to use synthetics and polyethylene at all, since they burn and melt at the same time, which means that they can drip melted. They will also smoke a lot.

Impregnation

To be honest, absolutely anyone will do. combustible material. The question is solely in the nuances. Gasoline and kerosene, for example, give off a lot of smoke when burned, and they don’t smell very pleasant at the same time. Rosin, wax and paraffin are devoid of such shortcomings, but you can just find their horseradish. We'll have to gut apiaries, candle shops and radio equipment stores. Machine oil smells bad, thick and dripping, vegetable oil is too thin, but it is easier to find. Pine resin... You can find horseradish on a large scale. And preparing complex multicomponent mixtures is long and tiring, although they give a good effect.

Briefly speaking, ideal option no. It all depends on external factors, conditions and availability of time. There is access to paraffin - excellent. With it, you can even "cartridges" for refillable good torches make. Well, if not, then gasoline and kerosene have long become classics. Again, if there is no access to a flammable liquid, the torch can still be collected. Yes, it will burn much worse, but it's better than nothing.

Retainer

The ideal option is wire. Non-flammable, can be found anywhere, easy to wind and remove. Can be more complex options come up with all kinds of metal nozzles, plugs and clamps. But with wire good torch much easier. The thicker the wire, the easier it is to perform the second function of the latch - to prevent the molten components of the torch from flowing down the shaft.

Stick

The main thing is that it be as non-combustible as possible. Plastic will not work - it can melt. Aluminum and steel do not burn, but heat up quickly, so you will have to additionally make a handle for which you can hold this good torch. Wood - depends on the type, thickness of the stick and its "hardening". "Hardening" - preliminary firing of the working end of the stick until blackened. When a tree is covered with a layer of burnt coal, there is less chance that the core will catch fire. It is also better to use a thicker stick as it will burn longer and worse.

As for the type of wood, it is definitely not necessary to use coniferous trees- they burn very well. We are also interested in aspen and larch. Both of these varieties contain enough liquid to keep them from catching fire for as long as possible. You can also use one of the many refractory impregnations. In summary, for a reusable torch with replaceable “cartridges”, it is better to take metal, but if you don’t bother with this, then a wet aspen branch will last for a long time.

Assembly

There are two fundamental different options manufacturing good torch. First - first we wind the fabric on a stick, and then immerse this end in impregnation. Pros - simple and fast. Cons - the inner layer may not be sufficiently saturated, so that the torch will burn unevenly. The second method involves dipping the fabric into an impregnation before winding. Then it will even be possible to give away excess liquid. Pros - uniformity and stability of the flame. Cons - for a long time, more impregnation is needed, and the treated fabric can be poorly wound. In general, the second option is more efficient, especially if you are making "cartridges" for reusable torches.

If you act according to the first option, then first wind the fabric on a stick, fix the lower part with a dense and thick wire winding, immerse the working end in the impregnation and turn it over so that the fabric is evenly impregnated. Well, in the second option, you first immerse the strips of fabric in the impregnation, then take them out, slightly squeeze out excess liquid, wind them on a stick and fix them.

If you want to good torch with replaceable "cartridges", then you need to do the following. First on metal pipe a newspaper is wound in a thick layer, and layers of fabric are already going on top of it. You need to wrap it as tightly as possible. Next, the “working part” is carefully removed from the shaft (which is why it should be smooth metal) and immersed in impregnation for a while. Turn occasionally for evenness. At this stage, there is a risk that the impregnation will flow into the middle and clog the central hole, so it is better to plug both ends with a cloth in advance, which can then be removed. Actually, everything. We prepare several of these “cartridges”, fix a wire clamp on the pipe and wrap the other end with a hard cloth or leather - this will be the handle.