Do-it-yourself foam plastic plaster - we protect the insulation from external factors. Styrofoam facade plaster Styrofoam plaster mixture

First of all, it should be noted that foam plastic plaster is not produced in its usual sense, that is, using a cement-sand mortar, as is done on ordinary walls. Here we need special adhesive solutions, capable of being retained on a water-repellent surface, that is, those that can dissolve upper layer bases, creating adhesion (interaction at the molecular level).

Below we will talk about some of the methods of such finishing, materials for it, and also watch the thematic video in this article as additional information.

Styrofoam plastering

Note. The word comes from the Italian stukko, which can mean gypsum, alabaster or lime.
Plastering refers to the hardened layer of a building mixture, as well as this mixture itself.

About classification

• For normal wall alignment, creating a smooth surface for mounting other facing materials as well as to protect them from moisture and mechanical impact used simple plaster. The mixture is made from three components - water, sand and cement, where sand is a filler, water is a solvent, and cement is a binder.
• On surfaces with increased aesthetic, decorative solutions (putties) are used.. But for protection against X-ray radiation (screen), for sound, hydrological and thermal insulation, special plasters are used.
• Lime mortars are intended for internal use, convenient for fast food and application, environmentally friendly. They are made in the proportion of 1 lime / 4 sand, sometimes the addition of cement is practiced.
• Cement-sand mortars are most common in plastering works and can be used both indoors and outdoors. The instructions adjust the proportions in relation to sand depending on the brand of cement, for example, 1 cement / 4 sand at M400 or 1 cement / 5 sand at M500. Among building mixtures, it is the most convenient for leveling surfaces with large swings, has high mechanical strength.

• To gypsum solutions includes most of the internal starting and finishing putties, which are used for leveling in residential, public and industrial premises. The disadvantage of gypsum can be called its inability to withstand a humid environment, so it can only be used in ordinary rooms, but, nevertheless, such mixtures are very popular.
• Most high price in polymer mixtures, but they have very high qualities and among them are latex and acrylic fillers. But latex is used exclusively for internal works, while acrylic plaster is universal - it can be used both as a start and as a finish, both indoors and outdoors.

Installation work

Before talking about how to plaster on foam, you should probably start with the installation of insulation - foam or extruded polyethylene foam, so that further work could be made without force majeure. These blocks must be firmly attached to the main wall and this is done with the help of fungi-dowels and tile adhesive, most often CERESIT CM-11.

Given the density of the material (foam has from 15 kg / m 3 to 25 kg / m 3, and extruded polystyrene foam from 35 kg / m 3 to 45 kg / m 3) dowels are used in 5 pieces and 2 pieces per block.

In addition, the panels from below are smeared tile adhesive, but they do this not over the entire plane, but pointwise, at the corners and in the center of the sheet. This fixation allows you to withstand the entire load that the foam carries under the plaster.

Both foam and extruded polystyrene foam are not rigid materials, they have varying degrees elasticity. In this regard, the front finish may crack and crumble over time. To resist this phenomenon, a reinforcing plaster mesh is used, which does not allow the top finishing layer to collapse.

Tile adhesive, preferably CERESIT CM-11, is mixed in a bucket and for this it is filled with water by 1/3, and then the powder is poured in (try not to fill the bucket to the very top - let at least 5-7 cm remain). For mixing, use a low-speed drill with a putty mixer (not for paint) and beat for 5-7 minutes, and then let it stand for 5 minutes.

After that, the mixture is stirred again - so you can not leave dry places in a container such as small lumps.

It happens that, due to negligence, water is gaining more than necessary and you have to knead a full bucket of solution, but then it scatters during the rotation of the mixer (it is sprayed by the created vortex). In such cases, you should switch the reverse to drills (it is located at start button) in the other direction - then the mixer will begin to rotate counterclockwise and the vortex flows will be directed inside the bucket - the mixture will not scatter.

Comb-shaped (teeth depth 5-10 mm) a layer of glue is applied to the surface of the foam insulation, while priming under it is not necessary, although if it has stood long time, then this will not be superfluous (the primer will remove all sedimentary substances from the surface).

After that, unfold the mesh roll and apply it to the surface, pressing it with a grater, spatula or just with your hand, as in the photo above - the main thing is that the mixture is forced through the cell. Simultaneously with this action, you smooth the squeezed glue along the plane - the reinforcing mesh becomes one with the layer of plaster.

Now, in order to continue finishing work, you need time so that the rough plaster can dry well. The timing here mainly depends on the weather, that is, on the temperature and humidity of the air, so drying can occur in a few days, or it can last one to two weeks.

However, this factor should not be neglected - a rigid reinforced base will allow even distribution finishing putty and will not create prerequisites for cracking.

Let's pretend that face plaster for outdoor work on polystyrene, we will make it from a putty called "bark beetle". Its texture is very beautiful, as the powder contains small pebbles, which leave scars and grooves during grouting. Therefore, the pattern created by the pebbles on the surface will depend on the grouting method, or rather, on the direction of the movements of the grater.

First of all, we need to prime the dried adhesive base with reinforcing mesh and allow the surface to dry completely. The bark beetle mixture is prepared in exactly the same way as other putty or glue, however, this method has already been described by us above.

If you use the same mixer for whipping that you used to mix the glue, then you need to wash it very thoroughly - even a small piece will be unpleasant dark spot on the faceplate.

Apply the mixture with a spatula on the wall and rub it with a grater or half a trowel, while making purposeful movements. The direction of such movement is usually horizontal, vertical or circular. Dried decorative plaster can be painted with your own hands, or you can leave it and apply paint after a few years.

Conclusion

As you can see, foam plaster is the same putty, only under a different name. You can make the front finish with any of the exterior putties and paint it in the colors you like. Good luck!

Having insulated the facade of the house, the owner is always faced with the unpresentable appearance of the insulation itself.

Since most often foam is used as thermal insulation or, that is good way, which will help get rid of this problem - this is facade plaster on foam plastic. The application of any decorative layer will protect the insulation layer from the negative effects of the external environment.

If foam or foam plastic is chosen as a heater, then with constant exposure to moisture and the sun, the material will eventually become very fragile and become unusable. Also, everyone knows that this material can be easily damaged mechanically, that is, broken, scratched or pierced.

It is almost impossible to somehow fix these damages, you need to replace the whole area. If foam plaster is used, then it performs a number of protective functions, so that the insulation will last a very long time. A properly finished facade with plaster acts as a barrier against:

1. The appearance of holes and dents due to mechanical damage.
2. Exposure to high humidity.
3. Sudden changes in temperature, as well as from prolonged exposure to heat or freezing.
4. Fires. Styrofoam is highly flammable, but plaster will increase the level of fire safety.

How to choose plaster

In order to protect the insulation material, manufacturers suggest using special formulations designed to be applied to foam.

There are only two types of them - these are acrylic and cement-sand. Which is better the first or second facade plaster on expanded polystyrene, we will now figure it out.

Cement-sand

If we talk about the price, then cement-sand mixtures much cheaper. And, of course, the most popular. But an attractive price does not give a long result. Such a coating will last only 2-3 years and then the integrity of the layer will begin to collapse, as a result of which the insulation will suffer from the external environment.

In order not to have to re-install the heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to re-plaster it beforehand, removing the unsuitable coating. It must also be said that cement-sand mixtures have grey colour. To give a more presentable appearance to the coating, you need to use staining.

Acrylic

Acrylic mixes are much more expensive, but they will last much longer. In addition, they fit well on the base, you can choose already painted mixtures and at the same time you can make not only a smooth coating, but give it an interesting texture, for example, bark beetle, lamb or rain.

Given all the advantages and disadvantages of plaster mixtures, it should be said that it is better to choose acrylic as a decorative finish. They will last much longer and look much more attractive.

Training

After, you need to carefully examine all the joints. If there are gaps somewhere, they must be closed with mounting foam or sealant. This will protect against the penetration of cold. In addition, you should pay attention to how even the coating turned out. To check this, apply building level or a rule. If there are irregularities, they must be eliminated.

The foam itself is very smooth material and any mixtures or adhesives do not fit well on it. In order to increase the adhesive properties, special primers or a regular spiked roller can be used. The tool will make small holes in the base, and the applied solution will penetrate into them and be securely fixed.

If a primer is used, then before applying it, it is necessary to clean the base from dust and dirt that may settle during installation.

Do you need reinforcing mesh?

Even if the foam is prepared for applying the mortar with a primer, then plaster mix still not applied directly to it. In order to get a more reliable coating, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is used.

It is optimal to choose a mesh with a density of 130/160 g/m2. Styrofoam plaster will fit well on such a reinforcing canvas, but it is difficult to work with it when finishing corners.

How to plaster

All work begins with cutting the grid for the corners. If slopes are processed, then the length of the mesh should correspond to the length of the slope, while the width is 30 cm. For the corners of the house, 1 meter will be measured. This length is much easier to work with. The width is the same as for slopes.

Having prepared the solution according to the recipe indicated on the package, you can start plastering.

Do-it-yourself foam plastic plastering starts from the corner, and so let's get started:

1. Spatula small size you need to apply the solution on a large spatula. Then apply the solution to the wall. The length of the strip must correspond to the length of the reinforcing mesh. The width at the same time on one wall will be equal to half the width of the grid plus 5-10 cm.
2. bent in half in width and applied to the solution.
3. We take a wide spatula and, smoothing the mesh, immerse it in the solution. The reinforcing element must completely penetrate the plaster solution. If the previously applied layer is not enough, then it is applied additionally on top of the mesh. The spatula must be moved from top to bottom and from the corner. This will create a more even surface.
4. Further on the wall, applying another solution, which will be slightly larger in size than the next piece of mesh.
5. Each subsequent segment of the reinforcing mesh is superimposed on the previous one by 5 cm.
6. Everything is leveled and smoothed with a wide spatula. This is done throughout the area.

Stages of grouting and puttying

After the facade decoration on the foam has been applied over the entire area, it must be left to dry completely. After waiting a certain time, how long the mixture will dry, usually manufacturers indicate on the packaging, you can start grouting.

This stage is necessary in order to obtain a sufficiently flat surface. For grouting, you can use sandpaper or special plastic floats. The device is moved counterclockwise. Without missing a single section, minor flaws are removed.

Next, move on to putty. This procedure will make the surface perfectly even and hide the slight roughness that may remain after grouting. If the previous stage was done qualitatively, then it will be enough finishing putty 2 mm thick.

After the putty has dried, it also needs to be rubbed. As a result of these actions, you will get a good, even surface that can already be painted. Painting of plaster is carried out with paint for concrete for outdoor use.

If you do not like this method of finishing the facade, you can choose decorative plaster.

Insulation of external walls is in great demand today. This applies to both private and apartment buildings. Thus, it is possible to save on heating bills and create comfortable conditions to live in the house. And although today there is a wide selection of heat insulators, more and more people are choosing an option such as foam.

Such an increased demand is due to the fact that this insulation has high sound and heat saving abilities, low cost and ease of installation. And to give the foam maximum protection, care must be taken to plaster the surface.

What kind of plaster is needed

Before proceeding to the application of plaster on the foam surface, it is necessary to decide on the choice of type decorative material. To date, the most sought after are:

Application technology

The process of applying decorative plaster to the foam requires compliance with a certain plan of action. If you are interested, then we described it in another article.

Surface leveling

Before applying plaster, it is necessary that the surface is perfectly even. The joints that formed after the installation of the foam must be located on the same level. To check, you just need to run a spatula over the surface.

Particular attention should be paid to the seams that are concentrated between the heat insulator plates. Seal them all with sealants, and the excess polyurethane foam cut with a knife. After the surface has been leveled, it is necessary to remove dust and dirt into it. But what are the methods of applying decorative plaster, and how to do it in the most correct and easiest way, this will help to understand

Solution preparation

Today in stores there are already ready composition for plaster foam. To plaster 1 m2 of reinforcing mesh, it is necessary to use 4 kg of the mixture, and to level 1 m2 of the surface - 6 kg.

It is necessary to carry out the mixing of the solution according to the instructions, which can be found on the package. For the installation of a plaster mesh, it is necessary to use a more liquid solution than indicated in the instructions. Then the mixture will be able to penetrate into all the pores of the heat insulator.

But what kind of facade insulation should you choose for plastering, and what you can stop at, is indicated

Plaster mesh installation

To achieve a strong adhesion of the plaster on the heat insulator, you should take care of installing the grid. If you apply the solution directly to the foam, then it will begin to crack quickly or may disappear altogether. And due to the fiberglass mesh, it is possible to strengthen the base and prevent the occurrence of the described problems.

If you need to work with an external heat insulator, then you should choose denser meshes. A layer of plaster lays down much better on them. But then you will have to pay increased attention to the processing of corners. This is exactly where to start.

And here is how it is applied warm plaster for outdoor work, and how to apply it correctly, you can see

On the video facade foam plaster:

Mounting the grid at the corners involves the following procedure:

1. To carry out installation work, it is necessary to cut the grid into strips, the length of which is 1 m.
2. In the middle of the grid, make an inflection.
3. With help wide spatula spread the solution on the surface.
4. Attach to the corner and smooth out using a spatula. All movements should be performed from top to bottom and from the center to the edge. Make sure that the mesh is completely immersed in the solution.

Finishing

The final step is the application of decorative finishes. For external works there are special facade compositions that are able to withstand temperature extremes and weather changes.

To carry out such work, silicate, acrylic and mineral plaster. When the solution has been prepared, you can begin to apply it. A spatula can help with this. The thickness of the applied layer should not exceed 40 mm.

And here is how the facade of the house is finished with plaster, and how to make everything construction works, can see

When the applied layer is completely dry, you can rub it to eliminate various irregularities. Due to the special structure of the facade, a special configuration is created with the help of a roller.

On the video technology facade plastering on foam plastic:

But what is the difference between putty and plaster, and where exactly it is worth using this or that material, is set out

Price

With the choice of facade plaster intended for foam, this should not arise. And it is connected with wide choice this product. The cost of finishing material is 170-750 rubles per bag.

The process of finishing the foam is very important and responsible. For this, it is necessary to use special facade plasters. Applying them is not so difficult, but it will not be possible for a beginner to perform such work. If certain flaws are present, this will affect not only the appearance of the facade, but also the life of the heat insulator itself.

is the use of foam. The material is not only very resistant to external damage, but also perfectly tolerates exposure to a humid environment and ultraviolet radiation.

Unfortunately, during the installation of foam, even with high-quality work, gaps form between the foam sheets, and this leads to a decrease in the effectiveness of the protective layer, and appearance leaves much to be desired. To cope with the problem, do not resort to complex constructive solutions and spend money on the purchase of special finishing materials.

This will help the usual facade plaster on the facade. The material has an affordable cost and allows you to finish the walls of the building in the shortest possible time. Consider all issues related to the design of the building, thus, in more detail.

Plastering walls finished with foam, cannot be carried out with ordinary plaster. This is fraught with the fact that after drying, the mixture may simply fall off and the plastering will have to be carried out again.

In this regard, it is extremely important to choose the right plaster that fits well on the foam and can last. a long period time. Consider which plasters are suitable for this purpose and will be the most suitable.

Before making a choice of plaster, we will study the foam itself. The following two important indicators can be distinguished:

• this material has a smooth and even surface, so there may be problems with the adhesion of the mixture;
• not every composition has enough level viscosity and can cling to smooth surface. That is why it is important to choose a facade plaster designed to work with foam.

Experienced craftsmen recommend using well-known and popular brands finishing compositions Ekomiks and, however, it is worth noting that absolutely any plaster that has high adhesive performance in relation to polystyrene materials can be used. The most important thing is to use a mixture from one manufacturer on the entire work surface to be plastered and do not mix compositions of different brands.

The next thing you need to pay attention to is that some manufacturers recommend using compositions for gluing foam with the subsequent application of a protective layer. Others, make universal mixtures suitable for all types of finishing works. The second option is suitable for those who want to save money, however, you should not count on high quality finished finish.

This issue is especially relevant if we are talking about, and not about additional finishing.

For facade finishing the best way suitable plasters:

• cement-polymer;
• polymeric.

If we talk about cost, then the most expensive compositions are polymeric, however, they are the most durable and do not crack during application, as well as after drying. Each type of plaster has practically no drawbacks, and buyers should choose the composition, focusing on the cost, features of the necessary work and ease of use. The easier it is to apply the composition, the faster the work will be completed.

Types of plaster mixture that can be used for application to foam

Let us consider in more detail what types of plasters are suitable for application to foam.

Since we're talking about outdoor decoration, then plaster must be able to withstand low and high temperatures , as well as various atmospheric phenomena.

In this regard, gypsum compositions should immediately be excluded from the list of suitable mixtures.

So, we have already noted that the most the best option will be cement or polymer compositions, but not those that are prepared by mixing cement, sand and water at home, but which are sold in hardware stores.

The thing is that additional components are added to the special compositions, which provide the plaster with strength and durability. Consider which compositions are most preferred for application to the foam.

There are the following types of compositions:

1. . Sand, water and cement are used to create them. They do not differ in durability, but have a small cost.
2. . Mixtures are based acrylic resins. The material perfectly passes air and allows the material inside to “breathe”. Differs in high vapor permeability.
3. . They sell such plaster in buckets, and it is characterized by an alkaline reaction. You need to work with it very carefully.
4. . They have increased elasticity and form a uniform beautiful layer when applied.

In addition to varieties, there are several more important points. It is better to use thin-layer materials that are easy to apply and spread.. Cement-sand compositions are characterized by low plasticity and cracks may form during application. All of these compounds are characterized by increased resistance to the appearance of mold, fungi and algae.

Consumption of facade plaster on foam plastic

For plastering the facade of a building finished with foam, two types of mixtures are used. The first is necessary for gluing the reinforcing mesh, and the second is used to level the surface. In addition, there are universal mixtures that are suitable for both types of work.

If a decision is made to buy two types of materials at once, then it is extremely important to correctly determine the amount of the required mixture. In this case:

• glue consumption will be 4 kg per square meter, and plaster should be calculated based on 6 kg per square meter;
• if we are talking about a universal mixture, then the consumption will be 10 kg per square meter;
• for calculation polymer plaster, it is worth using such an indicator as 9-10 kg per square meter, provided that 3.5-4 kg will be spent on gluing the reinforcing mesh, and the rest will be required to create a leveling layer.

Surface preparation for application

Before you start plastering walls finished with foam, it is very important to properly prepare the work surface. For this purpose, you will need:

• close the seams between sheets with the help of mounting foam and wait for it to dry;
• if surpluses are formed, then they must be cut off with a sharp knife;
• most often, the foam is attached with the help of "umbrellas", therefore it is important to make sure that the caps are sufficiently recessed and do not protrude, since this will create additional difficulties when applying plaster;
• after that, you will need to sweep the surface of the wall from dust and primed. This will increase the adhesive properties of the wall and even simplify the work;
• the next steps will be to reinforce and level the walls. If dry plaster is purchased for this purpose, then the mixture should be prepared before reinforcement begins, otherwise it will quickly lose its qualities.

NOTE!

It is very important to remember that plastering can only be carried out on the insulation that is firmly fixed.

If the foam is not securely fixed, it is necessary to correct this moment, because, after applying the plaster, ugly cracks may form on it.

Reinforcement and priming

It is worth using a standard spatula and applying the plaster in a thin layer.

An important point to consider when finishing is that the joints of the sections should be mixed relative to the joints of the mesh. In other words, seams should not overlap.

Finishing should be especially careful and accurate when it comes to subsequent painting, since all the irregularities in the future will only be emphasized by the paint and the walls will not take on a very aesthetic appearance.

In order for the surface to be perfectly smooth, after the coating has dried, it is recommended to grind it with sandpaper or special mesh. It is important to grout in the first 3-4 days, otherwise in the future, the composition will harden strongly and it will be extremely difficult to grind it.

The exception in this case is the invoice finishing plaster, however, it all depends on the grain size.

Useful video

Master class on wall insulation with foam plastic and applying plaster:

Conclusion

In the prepared article, we tried to show how to choose and apply facade plaster on the walls of a building insulated with foam plastic. If you decide to cope with this task on your own, then carefully read the material presented and try to evaluate your capabilities. Only a properly carried out finishing process will create a coating that will protect the building from negative impacts. environment and extend the life of the building.

In contact with

Insulation of the walls of the house with foam plastic was, is and will be one of the most popular types of thermal insulation. The popularity of foam plastic is due to its low price - to insulate even big house outside - quite a feasible task for family budget. The task can be considered completed if the plastering and puttying of the foam was carried out, by the craftsmen or with their own hands.

Is it possible to plaster foam and polystyrene - mistakes and misconceptions

Styrofoam, like others polymer materials, has a very long decomposition period. Scientists talk about the successful testing of plates of this material under conditions that simulate 80 cycles of temperature changes. How can this be, you ask? After all, everyone around is talking about the fragility of foam. This statement is only partially true - the foam becomes short-lived under direct exposure to ultraviolet ( sun rays) and mechanical influence. That is, if you decide to insulate the facade with foam, you should take care of protecting the material from these two factors.

As they say experienced craftsmen if you plaster the foam and carry out in a timely manner repair work, on average, the life of such a facade can be extended up to 20 years. Yes, and the foam for insulation and plaster should be special - grades PSB-S-15, PSB-S-25. The second misconception popular among builders is combustible foam. And again, the statement is only partially true - of course, the foam is combustible, but its ignition temperature is almost 2 times higher than that of the same wood, and during combustion it releases two to three times less thermal energy.

That is, in case of a possible fire, expanded polystyrene, as this material is more correctly called, gives a minimal increase in the temperature of the walls, and therefore, it is more than suitable for inside and out. If the technology is observed in the production of insulation boards, as well as their installation, they become significantly safer than other popular materials involved in repair and construction.

Another common myth concerns the lack of benefit from facade insulation and the lack of significant heat gain. Indeed, plastering the walls on the previously installed foam plastic will not make the house warmer by itself, but it will be much easier to heat it - insulated walls retain heat inside the house 30% better than without insulation. Thanks to the savings in electricity and fuel resources, wall insulation pays off in an average of 5 years, after which you will pay significantly less for heating for at least 15 years.

Protective layer for foam - puttying and plastering

The most popular way to protect polystyrene foam from environmental influences is plastering. The essence of the process is to create a reinforcing and protective layer that is able to withstand mechanical damage and completely neutralize ultraviolet radiation.

The whole process of plastering foam is as follows:

• special plaster mixtures are prepared ( ordinary plaster does not apply here);
• a reinforcing mesh is fixed over the expanded polystyrene;
• the first layer of plaster is applied;
• walls are leveled;
• final grout;
• priming the surface for decorative plaster;
• finishing decorative plaster(bark beetle, mosaic).

It would seem that it is quite easy to figure out how to plaster and wipe the foam plastic, and this operation can be done either with your own hands, or you can hire a construction team at a reasonable price. In both cases, do not make the basic mistakes - buy only specialized blends for Styrofoam, don't skimp on . If you are determined to do all the work yourself, watch the training videos.

Today, the most trusted manufacturers of plaster for foam and similar materials are firms Ecomix and Ceresit. It is very important that the putty used for foam in different time, was from only one manufacturer. On average, about 4 kg of the mixture is spent per square meter in the process of grouting the grid, and up to 6 kg on the main layer of plaster. The final grout layer can not be counted - just take mixtures with a margin of 8-10%.

Plastering technology - we work on polystyrene with our own hands

It is a pleasure to work with polystyrene - sustained in strictly defined parameters flat slabs polystyrene foam are mounted in a matter of hours. But plastering the walls will take longer. We start everything by kneading the mixture - we do it strictly according to the instructions from the manufacturer. True, in practice, nevertheless, the batch for gluing the reinforcing mesh should be made somewhat thinner - in this case, it penetrates better into all cells.

And for the grout layer, the consistency should be completely liquid and fluid, which is not written in the instructions.

Plaster mesh is a mandatory attribute in foam plastic plastering. How it looks, you can see from the video. It is thanks to this element that the composition will be held on polystyrene foam. Since the composition of the mixture includes cement, the mesh should be selected from alkali-resistant. The denser the mesh you choose, the easier it will be to plaster with your own hands. Glue plaster mesh with a universal mixture, starting from corners and slopes.

For ease of use, strips of the required length are cut off (we focus on the height of the wall, leaving a small margin) and 30–60 cm wide. The gluing starts from top to bottom, from the upper edge of the grid - holding it with one hand, with the other hand, using a spatula, apply the solution with a solid line along the entire edge . The layer thickness is about 5 mm. As soon as the mixture sets, we begin to fix the strip across the entire width, moving from top to bottom.

Keep in mind that it is correct to mount the adjacent strip with an overlap of at least a centimeter, so you should always leave a place free from plaster on the previous strip, as shown in the video. That's right, moving gradually around the entire perimeter of the wall, and fix the reinforcing mesh. On level ground without corners and slopes, you can cut the material in pieces up to 1 meter wide, no more. More you simply do not have time to stick, because the mixture for gluing dries very quickly.

The next step is grouting the grid with your own hands. To do this, you will need a plastic grater with an emery cloth. The procedure is carried out only on a dried layer of plaster into which the mesh was glued. In hot summer weather, it is enough to wait a few hours, but in damp cloudy weather - a day. It should be rubbed in a circular motion, applying little effort. The emery cloth from time to time should be knocked out from dust and changed to a new one.

Be sure to wear safety goggles and a respirator. After completing this stage, we proceed to apply the main leveling layer. For him, you will need all the same plaster mixture and two spatulas with wide and narrow blades. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture to a wider one and distribute it over the surface with wide movements. The layer thickness is 3–5 mm. To get started, watch the video with examples of work and practice on small area. According to the technology, the joints of the sections of the leveling layer should be located as far as possible from the joints of the grid.

Then it remains to wait until the leveling plaster dries, and wipe it according to the same principles as the plaster mesh. It is important not to delay with this - you have up to 4 days. Then every day the material will become stronger and stronger, and a lot of effort will have to be spent on grouting.

On the prepared (primed) surface of the walls, it is imperative to apply a finishing decorative trim e.g. sketch with your hands textured plaster under a fur coat or using the "bark beetle" technology. Many do not consider it necessary to plaster the walls again, but thanks to this layer, the insulation of the facade will last an order of magnitude longer.