Sticking edges on chipboard at home. Adhesion of edge tape. How to glue the edge on the chipboard tabletop with your own hands How to glue the end tape on the chipboard


Carpentry knife. In principle, also absolutely any, but not necessarily very sharp. Otherwise, there is a high probability of cutting the laminated layer on the chipboard itself.


Here are the details that need to be done. Of course, if such gluing of the edge is not a single character. So guide. The width between the jaws is 18 mm, since the standard sheet is exactly 16 mm thick.


Bar with a layer soft tissue. I folded several layers of cashmere from an old coat, such a product has been serving faithfully for more than one year.


And the handle-knob is just for ease of use.


And the same is on the bar with sandpaper.


True, it just had to be changed several times over the years several times, so short self-tapping screws with a large cap for fixing are just ideal.


That's it, let's get started.
We heat the iron strongly. As we iron the linen, we heat the edge, and then we rub it with a bar with a cloth with effort. She stuck, but her size is larger,


therefore, we cut it off with a knife, always from ourselves, and we start from the middle.


So we cut off from all sides. We glue the edge on the other sides of the part.


Now we clean off the remnants with a bar with sandpaper (do not get carried away, hold it once, without pressing, there will be plenty). One piece is ready


we do the same with the rest.
Moreover, peeling off this paper edge is as easy as shelling pears: we heat it again with an iron and remove the damaged or simply unnecessary paper edge for some reason.


That's all wisdom.

In the manufacture or repair of furniture, craftsmen have to finish the edge of the product. For this, a special end edge made of PVC is most often used. Several popular ways to glue the specified frame on chipboard are described later in this article.

How to mount self-adhesive PVC edge

Polyvinyl chloride-based edging is sold in two versions. In the first version, a layer of glue is applied to its lower part at the factory. In another version, the edge is sold without it, and the glue has to be applied independently.

If the material has an adhesive layer, it must first be heated. After heat treatment, the adhesive will become tacky and the edge will easily stick into place. This is done with the help of an iron, which must be switched to the "synthetic" mode.

The edge is attached to the end on which it must be glued. In this case, the edge completely covers the end face of the workpiece. Then gently, with the help of an iron, the edge is heated. But you shouldn't do it directly. It is better to iron the product through a layer of newspaper.

It is easy to stick such material. As it heats up, the glue dissolves and as soon as this happens, the iron moves on. The edge itself is well pressed against the workpiece and smoothed. So they act until the edge is glued to the part along the entire length.

Installing the edge with a building hair dryer

By the way, you can glue the edge without an iron. Sometimes it is more convenient to use a building hair dryer. To do this, the edge must be heated on the reverse side, where there is a layer of glue. When the glue becomes sticky, the edge is applied to its place, pressed and smoothed.

How to glue the PVC edge on the "Moment"

If the product does not have an adhesive layer, you need to take the "Moment" and apply it yourself. But before applying the glue, you should check the end of the workpiece for quality. There should be no debris, dust and sawdust. The butt must be clean and strong.

Glue is applied immediately to both surfaces. That is, on the edge of PVC and on the end face of the workpiece. At the same time, you should not rush. It is necessary to wait until the glue begins to set and only after that the edge can be glued in place with high quality.

While gluing the frame, it is strongly pressed against the workpiece and smoothed out. It does not hurt to roll the edge with a hard roller.

How to remove excess edge

If the edge sticks well the first time, you can proceed to the final stage. If not, the procedure is repeated. You need to apply more glue to the problem area and press it hard or roll it with a roller.

How to remove excess? The fact is that the frame is usually wider than the workpiece itself, so its extra width must be removed. This is done with a regular file by gently chipping.

The file is taken with both hands and the plane is pressed against the protruding edge. At the same time, it breaks off and becomes flush with the workpiece. The frame should be pricked towards the workpiece, and not away from it - so there is less risk that the edge will be damaged. However, if the PVC edge was glued with high quality, it pricks perfectly and this part of the work never causes any special complications.

Final grinding of the material

To finish the job of gluing the PVC edge, you need to take fine sandpaper and sand down the flaws, if any. All! The frame is glued on and ready to use.

(LDSP) the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, a furniture edge and a profile are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.

Types of furniture edges

One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the ugly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. Make it from different materials, respectively, it has different properties and price.

Paper or melamine edges

Most cheap option- edges made of paper with melamine impregnation. Paper is taken with increased density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and pasted on papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layered (cheaper) and double-layered. To prevent the melamnov coating from being erased, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the reverse side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, it is only necessary to warm up this composition slightly and press it well against the end.

Paper or melamine edging is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture

The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm - the most common. There is no point in doing it thicker, and it will turn out expensive.

This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But mechanical strength its very low - the edge is quickly worn out. Therefore, if it is used, then only on those surfaces that are not subjected to stress. For example, on back side shelves, countertops, etc.

PVC

Polyvinyl chloride, which has recently become widespread, is also used in the production of edges for furniture. From dyed to specific color mass, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth monophonic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it is easy to choose the right one.

PVC furniture edge is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:

PVC furniture edge is produced different thickness and width. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. There is furniture PVC edge with applied adhesive composition, yes - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).

This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heating, you must be careful not to melt the polymer.

Made of ABS (ABS) plastic

This polymer does not contain heavy metals, differs high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:


This type of edge can be matte, glossy, semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate different types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to work with and more durable in use.

Veneer edge

Veneer is a thin slice of wood that has been dyed and shaped into a ribbon. This furniture edge is used in production when pasting slices of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.

Veneer is not the most popular material for edging

Acrylic edge or 3D

Made from clear acrylic. On the reverse side stripes are applied drawing. The polymer layer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. It is used in the manufacture of furniture in an unusual design.

Furniture edge profiles

You can finish the edge of furniture not only with an edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are mechanically fastened. They have two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).

A groove is milled under the T-shaped furniture profiles in the processed edge. A profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the corner look attractive. It is brought to perfect condition with fine sandpaper. This type of profile is produced from PVC and aluminum, with the same installation method they look very different, and the differences are significant.

In width, they are available for chipboard 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.

S- or P- shaped profiles most often mounted on glue. They smear the edge, then put on plastic profile well pressed and fixed. These PVC profiles are soft and hard. Rigid ones bend worse and it is difficult to paste over curved edges with them. But they have great strength.

If you still need to "plant" a rigid C-shaped furniture profile in a bend, it is heated with a building hair dryer, then it is given the desired shape and fixed masking tape until the glue dries.

We glue the furniture edge with our own hands

There are two technologies for gluing furniture edging tape. The first is for those who have glue applied on the back. In this case, you need an iron or a building hair dryer. The second is for sticking tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good all-purpose adhesive that can glue plastics and wood products and furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.

A little about how thick the edge to glue on what parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, can not be glued at all, but basically they are trying to process them so that moisture is less absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or PVC 0.4 mm is glued to these edges. The edges of drawers (not facades) are also processed.

On the front ends of the facade and drawers, it is better to use PVC 2 mm, and on the visible sections of the shelves - PVC 1 mm. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.

How to glue the edging with glue yourself

The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge, it happens on PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine ones are easy to glue.

We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, a dense cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. For this purpose, a building hair dryer is also suitable. We put the iron on about “deuce”, while it is heated, cut off a piece of tape. Length - a couple of centimeters more than the workpiece.

We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it. Small pieces should hang down from both sides. We take an iron and, through a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, warming up until the glue melts. It is necessary to warm up evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.

The edge can be cut with a knife, both sharp and blunt side. Someone uses a regular metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.

So, we take the tool of your choice, cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are perfectly cut with a knife. If a PVC edge thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm and more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges are possible, if any. This guarantees good result in a short time. Longer processing will last if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.

One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, because of which all defects are visible. Therefore, first go through the cuts with sandpaper, then carefully dedust, degrease. Only after that you can glue.

Edging with PVC tape (without adhesive on the reverse side)

With this method of self-gluing PVC edges, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue, perform all the actions on the recommendation. For example, for Moment glue, it is necessary to apply on the surface and distribute the composition, wait 15 minutes, press the surfaces to be glued strongly.

Apply glue and wait - no problem. To firmly press the edge to the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a bar, you can take a construction grater, and also attach felt to its sole. In extreme cases, you can roll up a dense fabric in several layers and thereby press the tape to the surface.

The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all the weight, pressing it against the chipboard surface. The movements at the same time are stroking. So iron the entire edge, achieving a very snug fit. In this form, the part is left for a while - so that the glue "grabs". Then you can start processing the edge.

Everyone who has ever encountered laminated chipboard knows that a plate made of this material has smooth surfaces with a textured pattern, while its end parts are a hodgepodge wood chips with glue. In order to give the parts sawn from such a plate a presentation, a process such as chipboard edging was invented. It is a gluing on the ends of the details of a decorative strip - "edge", which can be either in color with the chipboard decor or different from it.

To date, two main types of edges are used:

  • PVC edge
  • melamine edge

PVC edge used in the factory manufacture of furniture, it is more reliable, durable, durable, but the edging procedure when using it is quite laborious. AT furniture workshops special edging machines are used. PVC edge thickness is 2 mm and 0.4 mm. The width also varies depending on the thickness of the chipboard sheets.

Melamine edge less durable, but requires a minimum of tools to stick and is widely used among home furniture makers. But due to the low mechanical resistance, its use is limited. Personally, I glue the melamine edge mainly on drawers. On the reverse side of the melamine edge there is always a hot-melt adhesive applied, and it itself is sufficiently resistant to elevated temperatures, so a simple iron is enough to stick it. It is only thin (0.4 mm) and has never been seen wider than 20 mm.

Since our site is devoted to a greater extent to work at home, first we will analyze how.

So, for work, we need the edge itself, an ordinary iron, a metal ruler, a clamp or a vise (optional), small sandpaper on the bar.

The edge sticker technique itself is as simple as a nail:

Now let's figure out how to glue PVC edge with your own hands, i.e. without use edging machine. Such an edge will last much longer than melamine, besides 2 mm and looks "richer". It is worth mentioning that the PVC edge can be either already with an adhesive layer (hot melt adhesive) or without it. In the first case, edging occurs using building hair dryer, and in the second case - you need to purchase glue. Let's consider the second method in more detail, because. it is more economical.

Let's start with gluing 0.4mm PVC edges. To fix it, it is best to use contact types of glue, for example, 3M ™ Scotch-Grip, Moment Crystal, Titanium or "88". It should be noted that it is more convenient to work with liquid glue (3M), it is easier to level and its consumption is much less. We work with glue according to the instructions indicated on the package.

Contact adhesive can be replaced with hot melt adhesive. For this you will need glue gun with a set of rods and an industrial hair dryer.

For work, we need a roller to press the edge (it can be successfully replaced with a rag or a piece of felt boots)), the glue itself, a spatula for leveling the glue or a simple brush, as you like, a wide chisel or a knife from a planer to remove excess edges, a sanding block with a fine sandpaper .

Hello dear friends!

As a rule, a melamine (paper) edge is glued on its own, and 0.5 mm thick.

Although, I believe that everything that can be ordered cheaply on the side should be ordered, freeing yourself from unnecessary routine work.

But still there are times when this procedure has to be done by yourself.

I generally do not recommend processing the ends of parts with a melamine edge, since the savings are cheap, and the quality of such a product will be low.

But PVC can sometimes be glued (but not thick, so if its thickness is 2 mm, then special equipment will be needed for such an operation).

So, what is needed for gluing?

First, you need special stops into which the part is inserted.

They are usually made from chipboard waste on their own (they are clearly visible in the photographs).

At a minimum, there should be two of them, in case the part is large.

Secondly, you need an iron.

It should be heavy, and on a spiral (old versions). In this case, it will keep for a long time high temperature(it is measured visually, with a finger on which saliva).

Such irons can be bought at flea markets.

Warm it up and try it.

It should not burn the edge, but it should also melt the glue that is applied to its reverse side well.

The measure of all this, of course, is experience. You need to try a couple of times, and everything will become clear.


Next, you need to have or sharp knife, or a scalpel, or a razor, etc. They cut off the excess edge hanging from the edges of the part.

And the last thing you need is a bar on which a small “knife” is stuffed. She smoothes the machined ends.

This is done so that the glued edge cannot be accidentally torn off.

Yes, I forgot. You need another piece of felt, which is pressed against the newly glued edge.


And the process itself is quite simple.

The part is set on the stop.

According to its size, a piece of the edge is broken off (cut off) (with a small margin) and lies on the desired edge.

After that, it is carried out with a heated iron “under pressure”, at the same time, rubbing the glued part of the part with felt with force.

When the edge has "grabbed", it is cut off with a knife.

This operation must be done correctly.

The blade of the knife should go along the plane of the part, thus cutting off the protruding part of the edge evenly.

If it goes at an angle to the plane of the part, it will constantly “cut” into the corner face, and this will leave chips.

After the remnants are cut off from the part, all edges along the edges of the part are rubbed with a “knife”.

If the detail is, or with roundings, then the situation is more complicated.

First, you need to process such a part with a router so that it has the correct edges, and only after that proceed to gluing.

But in this case, the whole procedure, of course, will be more complicated.

Therefore, I repeat: order these things “on the side”.

That's all.