Cattleya care at home after flowering. Features of caring for the exquisite cattleya orchid. Cattleya Orchid Reproduction

Cattleya is a unique variety of orchids, which are characterized by excellent appearance and simple care. That is why the plant can be grown not only at home, but also in office premises.

Description plant

The plant belongs to the genus Orchidaceae. AT natural conditions flower grows in humid tropics America. Thanks to a sufficiently developed root system, the plant can fully tolerate drought.

"Pet in a pot" is characterized by the presence of long and thickened pseudobulbs, the size of which is more than 15 centimeters. In length, dense leathery foliage can reach 30 centimeters. The culture has rather large flowers. One peduncle can have up to 5 flowers. They are characterized not only by a beautiful shape, but also by a pleasant aroma.

plant varieties

To date, breeders have brought a large number of hybrid flower forms.

The most popular types of Cattleya include:

• hybrid. It was bred by crossing various varieties of orchids.
• Imperials. This variety of Cattleya is a fairly popular white flower. It is characterized by the presence of curly petals and lips. It is a profusely flowering plant and is characterized by rapid growth.
• Margaret. The flowers have crimson-lilac petals. Flowering is observed twice a year.

The Cattleya orchid is an original flower, which is characterized by the presence of several varieties, which makes it possible for the grower to choose the most suitable option.

Growing conditions

In order for the orchid to have regular flowering and in order to prevent a variety of diseases, it is required to grow a Cattleya orchid under optimal conditions for it.

Seedlings are grown under the same conditions as adult plants. In this case, it is necessary to limit the direct sunlight on them, as this can lead to burns and death of the plant. Lighting should be bright but diffused.

Features of landing and transplantation

The Cattleya orchid does not like transplanting. After this procedure, a rather long restoration of the flower is observed. Before transplanting Cattleya, it is necessary to determine the condition of the substrate. With dense and oxidized soil, it is best to transplant.

Note! During the transplantation of Cattleya, it is required to ensure that no more than 5 pseudobulbs remain in the pot.

• The crop is planted in a soil mixture, which consists of the bark of small and medium fractions, as well as sphagnum moss.
• Two days before planting the cattleya, the bark is soaked in water.
• After this time, the water drains and the bark mixes with the foam, which is good drainage.
• After Cattleya landed root system it is necessary to sprinkle with bark. With excessively dry indoor air, perlite is added to the substrate.

Cattleya is not picky about pots. That is why ceramic, glass or plastic tableware. For Cattleya, simple, unglazed earthenware pots are best.

Video: Cattleya transplant from A to Z

Care and cultivation

In order for the Cattleya orchid to bloom regularly and also grow fully, it is recommended to provide appropriate care for it at home.

To achieve these important phenomena, the florist needs to carry out certain care actions.

Watering and feeding

In summer, it is necessary to water Cattleya as often as possible, because during this period the plant needs abundant watering. Its need is determined by the level of drying of the substrate.

Important! During the procedure, you need to make sure that water does not fall on young shoots. That is why when carrying out top irrigation, it is recommended to pour the substrate directly.

When using high-quality water, it is allowed in the summer to carry out not only watering the substrate, but also spraying the plant itself.

By the way! Once a month, a procedure is performed using a warm shower.

If in winter period during watering, water got on the foliage, then it should be wiped with a dry cloth, which will eliminate the possibility of brown spots.

When the pseudobulbs begin to grow, the Cattleya needs fertilizer. After the growth and development of the flower stops, the procedure is not carried out. Renewal of fertilizers is carried out during the period of growth of pseudobulbs.

flowering period

In order for a pet in a pot to bloom, it needs to provide the appropriate conditions. The flower needs direct sunlight. In order to avoid burns on the culture, it must be installed in a place where the sun's rays will fall on it for only a few hours a day. When installing a plant on a north window, it is necessary to provide additional lighting.

Often flower growers are faced with a strange circumstance - the Cattleya orchid does not bloom. But the problem is solvable, and you can still see the long-awaited flowers.

Why isn't Cattleya blooming? It's all about inadequate and inadequate care.

How to stimulate the flowering of Cattleya? In this case, it is recommended to make sure that in the morning and evening there is a temperature fluctuation of 7 degrees. This factor will stimulate the flowering of Cattleya.

To ensure flowering in summer, the flower must actively grow. For this purpose, fertilizers are applied under it. In this case, the use of mineral fertilizers is recommended.

In the initial phase of growth, it is better to apply nitrogen fertilizers several times. At the end of the period, phosphorus and potassium are introduced, which will contribute to the formation of bulbs.

rest period

During the rest period, the flower is gaining strength, so it is recommended to provide for it quality care. If flowering is observed in the autumn, then the culture will rest until spring.

During the dormant period, the plant is provided with full lighting. And also the flower needs cool conditions. During this period, a rare watering of the orchid is carried out (it will be enough 2 times a month).

Note! In this state, fertilization is strictly prohibited.

To prevent the possibility of rot development, it is necessary to stop spraying the flower. During the dormant period, regular air humidification is recommended. For this purpose, a container with wet expanded clay is installed near the plant. If necessary, additional lighting is carried out using a phytolamp.

Diseases and pests

If the Cattleya orchid is provided wrong conditions content or improper care at home, this can lead to the development of various diseases and the appearance of pests.

If the Cattleya orchid is kept in improper conditions and does not receive proper care, then this can lead to the appearance of pests. Most often, the appearance of aphids, spider mites or scale insects is observed on Cattleya. For pest control, the use of appropriate insecticides in accordance with the instructions is recommended.

How to grow roots: Cattleya resuscitation without roots

Quite often it happens that the Cattleya orchid remains without roots. Many flower growers are faced with such an unpleasant phenomenon and want to know how to solve this problem. But even when faced with this, everything can be easily fixed. The fact is that thanks to the vitality of Cattleya, you can easily grow its roots, but you need to know how to do it right.

In order to resuscitate Cattleya without roots, it is recommended to place the flower in water with a growth stimulator. When the first roots appear, the orchid is planted in a pot with a nutrient substrate.

It also provides the opportunity to plant the culture directly into the substrate. Previously, the flower is soaked for several hours in a solution of a root growth stimulator.

After resuscitation of the Cattleya without roots and its disembarkation, it is provided optimal conditions and appropriate care.

Breeding methods

Cattleya can be propagated by dividing the bush and children.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Reproduction of the Cattleya orchid in most cases at home is done by dividing the bush. This procedure is carried out once every 2-3 years during transplantation.

• Initially, it is necessary to qualitatively fill the substrate with water.
• After that, the flower is removed from the pot as carefully as possible.
• The next step is to wash the roots of the orchid.
• Further, the bush is divided into several parts with a sharp clerical knife.
• Places of cuts without fail are recommended to be processed wood ash or a solution of potassium permanganate, which will eliminate the possibility of developing diseases.

Reproduction by children

Since Cattleya have babies, they can also be used for breeding at home.

• For this purpose, the shoots, on which there are several leaves, are separated from the mother plant.
• The Cattleya baby must be placed in a growth stimulator for several hours, and then planted in a substrate.
• After disembarking, she needs to provide the optimum temperature, lighting and watering.

Cattleya is a unique variety of orchids that can captivate anyone with its attractiveness. Cattleya is characterized by unpretentious care at home, which makes it possible for any grower to grow it.

In contact with

The cattleya orchid from the tropical regions of South America is famous for its pseudo tubers, which, when growing, “climb” up, towering above the soil cover. Fragrant wavy flowers 8-20 cm in diameter, of various shades, have a wide lip with veins, painted in rich colors.

Varieties and types

A striking example of this plant is the "native" of the Amazon - violacea orchid with flowers purple.

- Mexican orchid with the corresponding color of flowers, exuding a pleasant citrus aroma, and leaves silver color. An interesting feature This cattleya is that all its structural parts grow down, and therefore it is planted “upside down”.

Originally from Venezuela - one of the most beautiful natural cattleyas with single-leaved cylindrical pseudobulbs 18-25 cm long and large fragrant flowers diameter up to 18 cm pink-lavender color.

The funnel-shaped large lip is comparable in size to the petals, in the inner part it has a bright yellow color. Varieties reineckiana and wageneri This Cattleya has pure white flowers. According to this characteristic, they fall under conditional classification “cattleya white ”, differing only in the appearance of the inner part of the lip - in the first case it is yellow, and in the second - with burgundy streaks.

Growing in Brazil. It is miniature, with pseudobulbs no more than 4 cm, while the leaves can reach a length of 6 cm. The flowers are painted in a uniform salmon-red color, and the funnel-shaped, elongated lip in the lower part is yellow-red.

are varieties borboleta with orange flowers, dotted with red strokes, and lobii with yellowish flowers and an orange lip.

Hybrid Cattleya Burana Beauty — beautiful flower, which is characterized by spindle-shaped pseudobulbs, light green foliage and yellow flowers with red strokes on tepals and a violin-shaped lip.

- another hybrid about 15 cm high with pinkish-purple flowers.

Tiny cattleya luteol (yellow) suitable for growing even in a small greenhouse. Its flowers are 4 cm long and have a gray-yellow color, quite rare for these plants. The lip is no less spectacular - yellow with white edging and a red-orange pattern.

- fragrant hybrid with darkish-yellow flowers with a scarlet tint. The lip is velvety, scarlet red.

cattleya care at home

In order for Cattleya to develop normally at home, it is necessary to follow a number of rules.

These include good lighting (east, southwest window sill), room temperature with fluctuations of 5-7 degrees during the day and night, and high level humidity when warm.

Cattleya watering

Watering Cattleya is recommended after the soil dries out, and so that the water does not affect the plant itself. With the onset of rest, watering should be reduced, and then completely replaced by spraying the soil until the moment when the peduncle goes into growth.

On hot days, you can spray the cattleya itself, but only if the water High Quality- rain after settling or distilled.

substrate for cattleya

Coarse pine bark with charcoal and peat in a ratio (2:5:5) will be an excellent substrate for Cattleya.

Some types of cattleya require good aeration of the soil - then you can get by with one pine bark.

Cattleya transplant

The plant needs to be transplanted every 2-3 years due to the fact that the substrate thickens and oxidizes over time. However, it should be borne in mind that this orchid treats this procedure very badly. Even if you just transfer it to a new pot (a simple clay one is best), you will not end up with problems.

Therefore, the substrate for Cattleya is prepared on the basis of the bark of medium and small fractions and sphagnum moss, before planting, the bark is soaked for 2 days, after which the water is drained and the bark is washed in clean water.

The pot is covered with 2-centimeter drainage layer gravel or expanded clay, on top - large pieces of bark and foam. Only after that can the cattleya be placed in the pot, sprinkling its roots with smaller bark. With increased dryness of the air, it is also recommended to add a small amount of perlite to the pot, which will retain moisture in the soil.

Cattleya fertilizer

For top dressing, there are specialized fertilizers for orchids. They need to be applied every 3rd watering, guided by the recommendations for concentration on the package.

Cattleya orchid rest period

The dormant period for all orchids, including cattleyas, involves a complete lack of activity in winter (on those days when the cattleya already or does not bloom yet) - they must rest and accumulate strength. At this time, it is very important to prevent the start of new growth, which, otherwise, will lead to discrepancies in the vegetative and flowering cycles.

This can be avoided by placing the Cattleya in a well-lit, cool place without too much direct sunlight. It is not necessary to fertilize the plant until the end of dormancy, and water it no more than once every 2 weeks or even less often. In ordinary apartment conditions in Moscow, the most the best place at this time, there is a window sill of a window that is not insulated for winter (not above the battery!) With illumination, for example, fluorescent lamps.

Cattleya propagation by dividing the bush

Usually combined with a transplant (see above). The best time for these purposes is when new roots begin to grow.

Taking an orchid with a lump out of the pot, crushing it a little (in the case of a plastic one) or sticking a knife along the edge of the wall and slightly protruding (in the case of a clay one), put underground part plants in a basin filled with water for 30 minutes until the substrate is soaked.

After, being careful, stir and disassemble the roots with your fingers right in the water. The healthiest specimens should be disinfected with crushed coal or cinnamon, then dried in a warm place.

This is followed, in fact, by the division of the bush - each division is selected so that it has at least 3 pseudobulbs with a living bud and more living roots. Instruments and cuts must be sterilized. Landing is carried out according to the same rules as for transplantation.

Diseases and pests

The main pests for Cattleya are scale insects and spider mites . They are fought with the help of an actellik.

If the plant blooms weakly, or does not bloom at all , then there is either an excess or a lack of mineral compounds, equally bad for growth and development.

Attention should be paid to the area of ​​the rhizome with covering scales, where excess moisture can form during irrigation - this can subsequently lead to decay and blackening the respective zones. If after the separation of the scales and examination of the rhizome blackening is found, these areas should be cut out to living tissue, treated with foundationazole and dried for several days.

Yellowing leaves indicates that the plant is receiving too much light, while a dark green color indicates that the light is not enough.

Cattleya can't grow roots in conditions of excessive humidity, poor lighting, very low temperatures or infrequent watering in combination with elevated temperatures, as well as the effects of fungus, bacteria, or old age. by the most accessible way to reanimate a cattleya without roots is daily soaking in water, including the following steps:

• put the plant in an empty pot without holes or a glass container on a well-lit window, keeping the temperature at least 20C;
• at the beginning of the day, pour water into the container to the level of the rhizome, leaving it for 1-2 hours (the orchid is able to develop normally in this mode for the whole day, but then the next time water should be poured no earlier than 24 hours later);
• while the kidneys have not yet “woke up”, cattleya can be dipped in a growth regulator for no more than 2 hours (epin or zircon in the ratio of a drop per liter of water) and no more than once every 3-4 weeks;
• once every 2 weeks, you can use a weak growth stimulant with a high content of nitrogen in relation to phosphorus.

The duration of resuscitation can be from 1 month to 1 year. Usually, from March to October, new shoots germinate more intensively than in winter, due to more favorable conditions.

My mother-in-law is a passionate collector of orchids. As soon as she finds out that in the stores of our city (in any area) appears new variety or the sight of this flower, she immediately calls and asks to buy it for her.

Once she went to the sea, asking me to look after her "flower bed". At first I grumbled, but along the way I got so involved in orchid growing that I bought myself a small cattleya. And then another one...

Here are the most popular of those that are found on the windowsills of our country:

A distinctive feature of the flower is a “protruding” lip, often also having a contrasting color. Also, this orchid is notable for its pseudobulbs, which grow in the same way as roots and leaves - during the active growing season (warm season).

In addition, unlike the almost “sterile”, that is, phalaenopsis that does not smell at all, the flowers that open on the Cattleya bush smell noticeably and simply magically. And some varieties in the dark can even be confused with a lily or lily of the valley.

Basic rules for caring for this flower

• Lighting. Everything is standard here: the light should be bright, but diffused. Experienced cattle breeders have noticed that this flower needs to be rearranged, keeping it on the south window in summer (shading it in the midday heat), and in winter on the southwest or east.
• Temperature. In this regard, Cattleya is unpretentious: it suits the climate that is created in our homes.
• Watering. And here already there are subtleties. Firstly, the liquid should only get on the ground, but not on the "body" of the orchid (especially in winter and at the growth points of the leaves). Secondly, if in the summer it needs to be watered generously (as soon as the substrate dries), then hide the watering can in winter - the “Spartan” spraying of the soil will be enough for the Cattleya. Return to the watering can when you see that the plant is releasing a flower spike. Naturally, the water should be settled or the like (distilled, boiled, warm melt will do).
• water procedures. Spraying is an orchid loves. Also in the summer it can be put under the shower, but having packed the pot in a bag - you should not fill in the soil, this is fraught with rotting of the root system. Also, a pot with this flower in the heat can be kept on a pallet with wet expanded clay or just water. Unlike other orchids, Cattleya will not die, but on the contrary, will be grateful to you if its roots touch the water.
• Nutrition. It is given either during flowering (at the very beginning - when the flowers open, you can refuse to feed), or during the growth of pseudobulbs. You can buy a complex mineral composition for orchids. When diluting such food, pour water to the maximum.
• Special conditions of care. Cattleya needs "hibernation". It comes after the end of flowering (more often it is autumn and / or winter). Do not feed the orchid, change the watering can to a spray bottle, but do not remove the pot from the illuminated window sill, or even better - illuminate the flower with an ordinary or special lamp. In addition, just before the flowering period, it is important that the difference between night and day temperatures be within 5-7 degrees - the number of future Cattleya flowers depends on this.

Transfer

Not the most popular Cattleya care procedure, because this orchid does not like “moving” very much. Therefore, the plant is disturbed by such a procedure every 3 or even 4 years.

Always use transshipment and mentally prepare for the fact that after the procedure the orchid will “fail” for some time, being capricious and recovering.

When to transplant? Look at the substrate: if it has oxidized (brightened, covered with whitish spots) and has become dense, the time has come! It is also worth transposing your pet if you suspect that its roots are diseased or do not fit in a pot.

The pot can be anything - both typical orchid translucent (made of plastic), and closed, clay.

• sphagnum moss,
• pine bark (small and medium).

Lay a layer of expanded clay (drainage) on the bottom of the pot, then a little coarse bark and perlite, transfer the orchid, and cover the distance from the roots to the walls of the pot with sphagnum with fine bark.

You can see the whole transplant process with the grower's comments here:

reproduction

When transplanting, you can divide the cattleya bush - so from one orchid you will get two (three, four).

The orchid is taken out of an old pot, placed in a basin of water for a while. When the substrate is soaked, it must be carefully removed, and the intertwined roots of plants should be untangled with your hands. It is better to do this by immersing your hands in the water in which the Cattleya root system is located.

Important: each division must be "provided" with 3 pseudobulbs and more. Also, it must have a sprout and a lot of live roots.

These cattleyas are planted in the substrate described above.

Orchid does not bloom: what to do and who is to blame

• If the plant is healthy, it may still be "small" for flowering.
• If you bought a non-flowering Cattleya (especially on sale), inspect the bush: are its roots healthy, are there any signs of fading. There is a possibility that this year the plant has already finished flowering, which they “forgot” to warn about in the store.
• Also, the appearance of flowers is influenced by many factors (sufficient amount of light, on time and in the right amount introduced top dressing, well-organized "hibernation", as well as the temperature difference in the "pre-flowering" phase of Cattleya). It may well be that the flower pot stagnated in a store where the Cattleya was poorly looked after, the plant was “offended”, and there will be no need to wait for flowering this year.

What to do? It's simple: if the plant hurts, treat it. If healthy - take care of it in full, and the cattleya will delight you with a flower (or flowers - up to a dozen can bloom on one bush) next year.

And of course, you can’t make a mistake when buying - if you buy a sick orchid, you should not hope that in your house it will go away on its own and bloom magnificently. An experienced orchid lover will tell you how to buy a cattleya correctly:

Other Difficulties in Growing Cattleya

• Leaves change color. How does the plant respond to wrong lighting. Yes, if the leaf blades began to darken, there is little more light, and if they turn yellow, on the contrary, the plant must be shaded.
• Leaves and bulbs are shriveled. There can be many reasons: attack by harmful insects (scale insects, thrips, spider mites), overheating or hypothermia of the roots, drying of the plant.
• The roots have rotted away. In this case, the upper part of the plant may still be alive. So, not everything is lost - you can grow a new rhizome. To do this, soak the orchid in water every day for 2 hours. When the rudiments of the roots become noticeable, you can transplant the plant into soil composed of charcoal, pine bark, moss, coconut substrate.

You will hear more about how to grow the roots of the "sick" here:

But what if you got the orchid in an absolutely “killed” state? Save this minute! In this video you will see the resuscitation of a true "goal". There is hope!

Cattleya orchid is one of the most popular representatives of the genus in indoor floriculture. It is the national flower of Venezuela and Colombia, its image can often be found on postage stamps and coats of arms of cities. Cattleya blooms, as a rule, for a long time, but on condition that the orchid is grown in sufficient light, and the owner does not forget about regular watering.

What does cattleya look like during the flowering period at home

The Cattleya genus is named after W. Cattleya, an English gardener who was one of the first to grow tropical epiphytic orchid species. Cattleya is one of the most popular and well-known genera of orchids in floriculture. About 65 species and big number natural varieties and forms of Cattleya are common in Mexico, Central and South America and the Antilles.

Cattleya (Cattleya) or corsage orchid is an expensive and capricious beauty, which is often used to decorate dresses, the orchid family, homeland - South and Central America. These are epiphytic or epilithic plants with a well-defined above-ground rhizome and fleshy cylindrical or spindle-shaped thickened stems with 1-2, less often 3 thick leathery oblong leaves with a blunt notched apex at the top.

Pay attention to the photo - the Cattleya flower has green leaves with a yellowish tinge:

The flowers are exquisite large, having an amazing terry frill along the edges.

The inflorescence is formed inside the so-called sheath, formed by one or two boat-shaped large bracts. Over time, it breaks through the cover and reveals 3-5 large showy flowers sitting on a relatively short peduncle. The sepals and petals are free, mostly the same color, the petals are usually much wider than the sepals. The lip is from entire to deeply three-lobed, covers the column with lateral lobes. The column is long, bearing an anther at the apex with four waxy, slightly flattened pollinia. Flowering of one specimen lasts 2-3 weeks; in the cut, the flowers are also resistant. When describing the Cattleya orchid, it is worth mentioning that these plants easily interbreed with each other, as well as with species of the genera Lelia, Epidendrum, Brassavola, Sophronitis, sometimes forming complex double and triple intergeneric hybrids. The aroma of the flower is delicate, refined.

The Cattleya orchid flower is demanding on good lighting. From an excess of light, orchid leaves become light green or yellow. Dark greens speak of its deficiency.

During the flowering of Cattleya at home, it is recommended to put it in the most visited room, so that as much as possible more people enjoy and enjoy this beauty.

See what the cattleya looks like in these photos:

John Lindley used the term labiata to draw attention to the large lip of the first Cattleya species. This lip is perhaps the most famous feature of the large-flowered species of the genus Cattleya. Each species of Cattleya plant has its own typical lip color pattern, making given flower different from others. This must be remembered. However, typical lip differences are not the only signs that distinguish one species from another. There are a sufficient number of signs by which a random plant of one species can absolutely exactly resemble another.

The white form of the Cattleya houseplant is a prime example this phenomenon: white sepals and petals with citrus or a yellowish-cream lip. But other, different characteristics were needed to separate the species from each other, and they are not standard, like the structural form of a plant or the color of its flowers, usually used by botanists.

Only cattleya doviana (Cattleya dowiana), with its yellow sepals and petals, and the Cattleya maxima, with its yellow longitudinal stripe down the center of the lip, are unique color specimens, and only cattleya ludemanniana (Cattleya lueddemanniana) with a column similar to a gull's wing have a unique structure. All other species do not have any real color or structural differences that are exclusive to them and no other Cattleya.

Description of the types of houseplant Cattleya

Cattleya hybrid – Cattleya hybrida. Under this name, a huge complex of hybrid forms obtained by crossing different types Cattleya among themselves and subsequent multiple crossings between varieties. In most cases, their main progenitor is a complex natural look live cattleya and its many varieties and forms.

big-lipped cattleya – Cattleya labiata. An epiphytic plant with large fusiform, slightly flattened univalent pseudobulbs 12–25 cm long, covered with grayish-greenish membranous scales. The leaves are oblong, obtuse, with a small notch at the top, up to 25 cm long, 4–7.5 cm wide, leathery. The flowers of this species of Cattleya orchid reach 12-18 cm in diameter, very fragrant, collected in a few-flowered apical brush. Sepals and petals are pink or lilac, petals are narrow, lanceolate, ovate, three times wider than sepals, wavy. The lip is large, wide-funnel-shaped, indistinctly three-lobed, with lateral lobes wrapped around the column, and an outstretched middle lobe of the same color as the sepals and petals, but with a large raspberry-purple spot in the anterior part, a pale yellow spot in the throat, mottled with reddish lines, and light pink curly edge. It was found in 1818 in the Organ Mountains in Eastern Brazil and marked the beginning of the genus as a whole.

Cattleya orange-red – Cattleya airaptiaca. large plant with elongated-fusiform, thin below, gradually thickening upwards stems up to 35–40 cm long, wrapped in white membranous sheaths (shells). There are two leaves - hard, fleshy, elongated-ovate or elliptical, with a tiny notch at the top, 5-18 cm long, 2.5-5.5 cm wide. Inflorescence on a short peduncle, bears 2-10 small bright orange flowers. Sepals and petals are lanceolate or narrowly oblong, obtuse, slightly forward, so that the flower does not fully open. When unfolded, it is 3–4 cm across.

As you can see in the photo, this type of cattleya has a whole, narrow, oblong lip, the same color as the rest of the tepals, but with dark red or brown strokes in the center:

Homeland - Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua. The species is widely used when crossing to obtain varieties with yellow or orange color.

Cattleya Forbes (Cattleya forbesii) is an epiphytic orchid with thin cylindrical or elongated spindle-shaped two-leaved stems up to 30 cm long. The leaves are oblong, obtuse, up to 15 cm long, about 5 cm wide. The inflorescence bears 2-6 flowers on a short straight peduncle. Flowers about 10 cm in diameter, fragrant. Sepals and petals are pale olive-yellowish or light chestnut with slightly darker veins, oblong-lanceolate, slightly sickle-shaped. Lip 3-lobed, lateral lobes large, elongated, wrapped around the column, ivory on the outside, sometimes with a slightly pinkish tinge, with inside orange-yellow with reddish-brown veins. The middle lobe is round-triangular, pale yellow, curly along the edge, with a bright orange-yellow spot in the center, decorated with red-brown strokes and spots.

How to grow cattleya and how to care for a flower at home

temperature and light. Before growing cattleya, make sure that there is enough light in the room, the temperature is maintained at 22-28 ° C in summer (at night not lower than 17 ° C), and in winter - 16-18 ° C (at night not lower than 12 ° C). C). Alpine species (Cattleya Bowringa) need a cooler content (in winter 10–12 ° C, in summer 22–24 ° C) and a constant supply fresh air, especially during the summer. Cattleyas love bright diffused light without direct sun, but on a southern window during the hot summer afternoons, they need light shade.

Watering and humidity. In summer, during the growth period, plentiful and frequent watering and spraying are necessary. In order to take care of Cattleya at home as carefully as possible, in autumn (September - October), the plants are kept in a moderately humid state, in winter, during dormancy, in a moderately dry state, avoiding wrinkling of pseudobulbs and leaves. But the humidity is still kept high. Compared to other species, Cattleya Ekland needs more careful moderate watering at the same high humidity.

Top dressing: during the growth period, they are fed with special fertilizer for orchids. When caring for a Cattleya orchid at home, using fertilizers for other indoor plants, the dose recommended in the instructions is reduced by 2-3 times.

Transfer: it should be transplanted only when the growth of the orchid slows down (the appearance of roots from the holes at the bottom of the pot is a natural phenomenon in this plant and does not require intervention). When growing Cattleya, transplanting is carried out when the roots no longer fit in the pot at all. Do not bury the cattleya too deep into the ground. You can plant cattleyas in hanging baskets, and small plants on blocks. The choice of landing method depends on the conditions of detention. So, when kept in a room greenhouse, planting in a basket or on the bark is preferable.

Here you can see a photo of Cattleya orchid care at home:

Substrate: a mixture of pine bark, fern roots, you can add charcoal and coconut chips. After transplanting, do not water the orchid for 5 days. Cattleya needs high drainage.

Diseases and pests. Cattleya can be affected and; in case of violation of growing conditions - phytophthora.

Possible problems: high humidity favors growth, but is dangerous if poorly ventilated.

For reproduction, Cattleya take a plant with at least 7-8 bulbs. The rhizome is cut with a knife, trying not to damage the bulbs, the cut is sprinkled with coal. It is desirable that each division has 4 bulbs. Divide the bush in the spring after flowering or at the beginning active growth orchids that bloom in autumn.

The video of caring for a catlea shows how to grow this flower:

Orchids are highly valued for their decorative blooms. But Cattleya even stands out in comparison with other species unusual shape flowers, a wide palette and a smooth transition between shades on the petals. Each of them resembles the creation of a talented watercolor artist. However, to admire the flowers at home, you will have to devote a lot of time to the plant. Orchids have a reputation for being fussy and demanding plants, and rightly so - they are not easy to care for.

What does the Cattleya orchid look like and where does it come from?

Cattleya belongs to the Orchidaceae family, which includes many different species. The name of the plant was in honor of the British botanist and horticulturalist William Cattley (or Cattleya), who in 1818 first made these orchids bloom in climatic conditions radically different from their native South and Central American tropics. In Europe, the plant appeared a year earlier thanks to the efforts of the American flora researcher William Swainson and made a splash.

The name Cattleya came into use after the publication by John Lindley in 1821 of the book "An Anthology of Botany" (in fact, a description exotic plants), which detailed Cattley's successes.

The Cattleya orchid in nature most often settles on trees, using them as a support.

In nature, the habitats of the Cattleya orchid are territories with different heights above sea level, climatic and weather conditions. Therefore, the plants bear little resemblance to each other. There are cattleya-epiphytes, lithophytes, the diameter of the flower varies from 5 to 25 cm (by the way, the buds of natural orchids are even larger than those of breeding hybrids).

Without knowledge of the structure of an orchid, it is impossible to properly care for a flower.

The aroma is delicate, similar to the smell of lily of the valley, lily (some breeding hybrids are deprived of it). One flower lasts 3-4 weeks, they bloom sequentially. Most cattleyas bloom in autumn or winter.

The structure of the flower is typical of Orchids. It consists of three bright sepals and three petals. bigger size, the middle of which (of a contrasting tone) is strongly elongated, resembling a protruding lip or funnel. Its edge is scalloped. This structure is due to the fact that orchids are pollinated by hummingbirds. The middle petal is a kind of "landing pad" for them.

The structure of the orchid flower is due to the fact that they are pollinated by hummingbirds.

Cattleya constantly forms new shoots, therefore it grows strongly in width. The stem of the plant is the so-called tuberidia with 2-3 internodes, popularly referred to as the "pseudobulb". It is quite thick, where the orchid stores moisture and nutrients absorbed by aerial roots. The shape of the stem is similar to a spindle slightly flattened along the vertical axis. In nature, plant height can reach 1.5 m, at home - 30–45 cm.

Orchid pseudobulbs are used to store moisture and nutrients.

Leaves are hard and smooth. More than two leaf blades rare on a pseudobulb. Orchid roots are well recognizable - thick, but fragile, smooth, they are covered with a layer of special fabric that absorbs moisture (velomen).

Cattleya fell in love with European flower growers immediately and forever, not least due to the ability to interbreed. The first hybrids bred were named after the most revered saints and Christian holidays.

What varieties can be grown at home?

About 65 cattleyas are found in nature, but there are incomparably more breeding hybrids. Any grower will find a shade to their liking, until they managed to produce only pure black and bright blue flowers.

Cattleya growing in natural conditions:

• Two-color (bicolor). Plant height - 50–60 cm. Shoots are relatively thin. Each peduncle has one flower with a diameter of 8-10 cm.
• Bowringa (bowringiana). At home, it rarely grows above 35 cm. The diameter of the flower is 5–7 cm. Up to 20 flowers in one inflorescence. After autumn bloom needs a short period of rest.
• Forbes (forbesii). Miniature plant, not higher than 20 cm (usually 10–15 cm). The flowers are about 5 cm in diameter (there are 4–6 in the inflorescence), bloom during the summer for 10–15 days. The most non-capricious among cattleyas, but also one of the least decorative.
• Lipped (labiata). The petals are corrugated. The diameter of the flower is 15 cm, there are 2–3 of them in the inflorescence. Pseudobulbs are flat, covered with olive scales. The leaves, which are quite wide for cattleyas, are shallowly cut in two from above. The main material for the creativity of breeders.
• Varshevich or giant (warscewiczii). Height - 30–40 cm. The flowers are very large (25–30 cm), with a pronounced aroma, collected in several pieces in racemose inflorescences. Very whimsical, with rare exceptions "in captivity" blooms only in greenhouses and greenhouses.
• Orange-red (aurantiaca). Height - up to 40 cm. Shoots are covered with whitish scales. The height of the peduncle is no more than 20 cm. The diameter of the flower is 35 cm, there are 4–10 of them in the inflorescence.
• Ekland or Lady Ekland (aclandiae). Miniature epiphyte up to 15 cm high. Flower diameter - up to 10 cm. There are no more than two of them on one peduncle.
• Dow (dowiana). Sometimes it is not quite correctly called "doviana". Very large lip, covered with thick fringe. Height - no more than 20 cm. Flower diameter - 15 cm. Widely used in breeding.
• Mossi (mossiae). An endemic species found exclusively in Venezuela. The national flower of this state. Height - up to 30 cm. In the inflorescence there are 7 flowers with a diameter of up to 15 cm. The petals are strongly fringed.
• Skinner (skinneri). The national flower of Costa Rica, although it grows not only there. The pseudobulbs are thick, 25–30 cm high. The flower diameter is 6–8 cm, there are 10–12 of them in the inflorescence.
• Trianas (trianae). In one inflorescence, the color of the petals can vary from almost white to rich purple. There is always a saffron-colored spot in the center of the lip. "Parent" of many breeding hybrids.
• Percival (percivaliana). Height - up to 15 cm. Peduncle length - up to 25 cm. In inflorescence 2-4 flowers with a diameter of 10-12 cm. It blooms in the middle of winter.
• Granular (granulose). Very unusual flowers, as if made of wax. Inflorescences racemose, 5-9 flowers.

Photo gallery: Cattleyas found in nature

Cattleya bicolor is distinguished by very fleshy petals, the edges of which do not twist Cattleya Bowringa - very bright lilac orchids ( feature- a bright yellow spot on the lip) Cattleya Forbes - a pastel pink or white lip effectively stands out against the background of inconspicuous yellowish-beige petals Cattleya lipped - the flowers shimmer with different shades of pink, lilac and purple rich amethyst Cattleya orange-red with flame-colored petals Cattleya Ekland - petals yellowish-beige, with chocolate spots; lip changes from pale pink to purple Cattleya Doe has cream to gold petals with a slight red undertone; the lip is as if velvety, bright scarlet, with yellowish veins Cattleya Mossi - very delicate white or pastel pink petals and a large lip with purple spots and a yellow base Cattleya Skinner looks like Bowring's cattleya, but, unlike it, Cattleya Triana blooms in spring - this chameleon plant is highly regarded by Cattleya Percival breeders - petals are almost white, the lip is darker, with a pinkish border around the edge and a saffron base.

It is impossible to list all breeding hybrids of Cattleya.

Photo gallery: the results of the work of breeders

Cattleya Eclipse - very large, dark raspberry or purple flowers. The Margaret Degenhardt Saturn hybrid has petals painted in different shades yellow, soft pink and lilac, smoothly turning into each other, it looks like a sunset in the tropics (blooms twice a year) Earl Imperialis - a very popular and relatively unpretentious snow-white orchid with corrugated petals and a Cattleya lip Miyuki Little King is distinguished by its growth rate and inflorescences similar to clusters of Cattleya Luteous Forb - a miniature fragrant hybrid with petals of an unusual lime color The Chocolate Drop hybrid has interesting raspberry-chocolate petals (flower height - up to 40 cm, flower diameter - 4-5 cm) Cattleya Summer Stars - favorite flowers of brides, rivaling whiteness with a dress

Table: suitable conditions for growing Cattleya orchids (temperature and more)

The brighter the color of the petals and larger flower, the more natural light the cattleyas need to bloom. The shade is best tolerated by hybrids united under the name Potinara. Accordingly, the conditions of detention for different species of Cattleya vary greatly. Therefore, it is desirable to know exactly the name of the variety.

Proper plant transplantation and subsequent care

Good aeration is vital for cattleyas, so the more drainage holes in the pot and the looser the soil, the better. The soil can be purchased at specialized stores or mixed independently.

Orchids do not like frequent transplants. One procedure every 2-3 years is enough. If the roots stick out of the drainage holes, you need to take a larger pot. Obviously, it is enough to completely change the soil that has sour, sagging and covered with mold, while sterilizing the pot.

Cattleya cannot be removed from the pot unless the substrate is well wetted first.

Orchid soil prefer special:

• crushed sphagnum moss and wet tree bark (1: 1);
• peat chips, small pieces of charcoal, sphagnum moss, powdered tree bark (1:1:1:1);
• land from under coniferous trees; crushed pine or spruce bark and cones, finely chopped fern rhizomes, peat (2:2:1:3).

The soil for the Cattleya orchid bears little resemblance to soil in the usual sense of the word.

Transplanting a Cattleya orchid is a simple procedure. The best time for her - the very beginning of the period of active vegetation (new shoots reach a height of 2-3 cm). Procedure steps:

1. Pour a layer of drainage at least 3 cm thick on the bottom of the pot. From above - about the same amount of substrate.
2. Remove the flower from the old pot, shake off the earth from the roots. Without prior abundant watering, it is impossible to remove cattleya from the container, especially if the pot is ceramic.
3. With a sharply sharpened knife, cut off all dried pseudobulbs, rotten roots, and other parts of the plant affected by diseases and pests. Sprinkle all sections with crushed chalk, wood ash, powder from activated carbon.
4. Transplant the plant, leaving the base of the rhizome on the surface. Support may be needed for a while. Add substrate around the edges of the pot.
5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight for 3-4 days and do not water it. Then return to your usual place and resume care.

During transplantation, cattleyas must cut off all dry and / or diseased roots.

Video: how to transplant cattleyas

How to care for a flower?

Important points in the care of the Cattleya orchid are watering and feeding.

Watering

Cattleya roots should dry out completely between waterings. Therefore, once every 5-7 days for 30-45 minutes, it is enough to place the pot in a container with water at room temperature, which should not touch the leaves and pseudobulbs. The frequency of watering is adjusted depending on the time of year and weather. From the moment the peduncle appears, the orchid needs more water.

Cattleya water, like any inhabitants of the tropics, is very fond of, but only warmed and soft

Also, the plant needs regular washing of the substrate (5–10 minutes under running water). warm water monthly). This prevents soil salinization. Drops of water that fall on the leaves in the process are erased as quickly as possible.

Fertilization

Cattleyas are most in need of feeding at the beginning of the active growing season. Use special means for orchids or universal top dressing for flowering houseplants at a minimum dosage (a quarter of the recommended). Add fertilizer weekly to water for irrigation. If it is not intended specifically for orchids, before that, hold the flower for 1–1.5 hours in plain water.

When the pseudobulbs stop growing, the nitrogen-containing top dressing is stopped. From the moment of the formation of the peduncle and until the beginning of flowering, Cattleya are fed with products with a high content of phosphorus and potassium.

You need to know exactly when and what feeding the Cattleya orchid needs

The dormant period for most orchids occurs at the end of autumn and winter. "Resting" Cattleyas are watered about once every 10-14 days, they do not feed, they stop showering. Diffused light and keeping in a cool room are important.

The lower the temperature, the worse the roots absorb water. But it is also impossible to let the pseudobulbs dry out and wrinkle.

It is advisable to rearrange the resting Cattleya closer to the window - the winter sun is not so active

Bloom

It should be noted right away that only adult orchids bloom. Therefore, the purchased flower should have at least 4 pseudobulbs, shiny leaves of an even tone, smooth thick roots and the remains of last year's peduncles. Ideally, you need to buy a blooming orchid.

The easiest way to achieve flowering is from hybrid Cattleya from the Potinara group of varieties or miniature two-leaved species. They often bloom not once, but 2-3 times a year. The most capricious are large-flowered orchids that do not have a precisely defined flowering period. From the moment of formation of a flower bud to the appearance of a peduncle, about 4 months pass. You can “help” the plant a little by cutting off the top of the “case” in which the buds are hiding. The plant will prolong the flowering as much as possible with buds that have blossomed and gained a rich tone in light partial shade.

After the petals fall, cut off the peduncle slightly obliquely, leaving a "stump" 1–2 cm high. Sprinkle the cut with wood ash, colloidal sulfur, grease with brilliant green or iodine. Watch the flower for a while to make sure there are no signs of rot.

Video: how to make a Cattleya orchid bloom

Table: how the Cattleya orchid reacts to grower mistakes

The Cattleya orchid reacts to inappropriate conditions of detention and care with a deterioration in appearance

Table: diseases and pests of Cattleya orchids

What diseases and pests will you have to deal with when growing Cattleya - photo

Root rot completely destroys the root system of the orchid. Leaves and pseudobulbs affected by gray rot seem to get wet from the inside. Folk remedies or chemicals that destroy the mosaic disease virus do not exist. Simultaneously with the appearance of the mealybug, orchid leaves become sticky. folk remedies Small black dots and brownish spots on the leaves are signs of thrips.

How to save an orchid that has lost its roots - the secrets of resuscitation

Immerse the bases of the pseudobulbs daily for 2 hours in room temperature water. When growth buds appear, stop the procedure. Plant an orchid that has grown at least 3 roots 5-6 cm long in a mixture of finely chopped moss and pine bark with pieces of charcoal. The pot should be tall and narrow. The easiest way to "save" the plant is from early spring to mid-autumn. At this time, suitable lighting and a fairly high temperature.

Don't Rush to Throw A Cattleya Orchid That Has Lost Its Roots

You can place the affected Cattleya orchid in a mini-greenhouse, providing a temperature of about 25 ºС and bright diffused light. A layer of drainage is placed at the bottom, and crushed sphagnum moss is placed on top.

How does a flower reproduce?

At home, the only way to get a new Cattleya orchid is by dividing an adult plant. The procedure is carried out simultaneously with the transplant, the selected specimen must have at least six pseudobulbs.

The division of the Cattleya orchid is carried out so as to cause minimal damage to the plant.

1. Remove the flower from the pot and place the earthen lump in a container of water for half an hour.
2. Gently wash off the substrate, untangle the roots (right in the water), cut off dried and rotten ones.
3. With a sharp knife, divide the rhizome so that each part has at least 3 pseudobulbs and a growing point. Be sure to disinfect the instrument before use and sprinkle the cuts made with crushed chalk, colloidal sulfur, activated charcoal powder, or at least cinnamon.
4. Plant the plants in small pots, preferably transparent ones. So it is easier to notice the development of rot in time. A layer of drainage is required. The substrate is moss and pieces of bark.
5. Remove in partial shade for 3-4 days, do not water. Keep the temperature around 25ºC and no drafts. Then normal care.