Planting and quality care for red currants in the fall. Red currant: care and cultivation rules

• Landing: in September or from mid to late April.
• Lighting: bright sunlight.
• The soil: slightly acidic or neutral chernozems, forest soils with a high content of humus or loam.
• Watering: regular and sufficient, especially during the period of active growth and formation of ovaries (at the beginning of June), as well as during the filling of berries (at the end of July or beginning of August). Consumption - 20-30 liters of water per m²: the soil should be saturated to a depth of 30-40 cm.
• top dressing: in April, urea is introduced into the soil, in June - slurry or a solution of bird droppings, although the soil can also be fertilized with a mineral complex. In summer, on cloudy days or in the evenings, foliar top dressing is carried out on the leaves with solutions of trace elements - boric acid, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, manganese sulfate and ammonium molybdate. In early October, the soil around the bushes is dug up with organic matter, potash and phosphorus fertilizer.
• pruning: in early spring or after leaf fall.
• reproduction: layering, dividing the bush and cuttings.
• Pests: the plant can be affected by blackcurrant fruit, gooseberry yellow and pale-footed sawflies, currant gall midges, glass cases, bud and spider mites, leaf gall and gooseberry shoot aphids, gooseberry moth, moth and biennial leafworm.
• Diseases: anthracnose, white spot, European powdery mildew, terry (growth, reversion), nectrium drying of shoots, striped mosaic, goblet and columnar rust, gray rot.

Read more about growing red currants below.

Red currant - description

Red currant bushes reach a height of 1 to 2 m. The root system of red currant is quite powerful. Her shoots are yellowish or gray, green wood with a light core. The leaves of red currant are three-five-lobed, smooth and shiny on the upper side, and more on the lower side. light shade and sometimes with pubescence along the veins. Blossoming in May, inconspicuous red-brown or yellow-green flowers are collected in brushes. The fruits of red currant are juicy and sour-tasting red berries up to 1 mm in diameter, collected in clusters. Red and black currants are close relatives. They are also related to white currant and gooseberry. In our gardens, redcurrants are grown just as often as blackcurrants, strawberries and raspberries, and much more often than blackberries, blueberries and blueberries just starting to master amateur gardens.

Red currant blooms much later than black, so it is less likely to suffer from return frosts. It tolerates drought more easily, and with proper care gives richer crops. The bush of red currant lives 30-35 years. Almost all cultivars are self-fertile.

From this article, you will learn how red currants are planted and cared for - how and when to water them, how to feed them, how to cut red currants, how to treat them for diseases and pests, and whether red currants can be grown in areas with a cool climate. In addition, we will give you a description of the varieties of red currant, and you will surely be able to choose excellent varieties for your area.

Planting red currant

When to plant red currants.

The optimal time for planting red currants is September. If for some reason you did not manage to plant red currants in the fall, you can transfer the planting to spring - to the middle or end of April.

Since redcurrant is very photophilous, it should be grown on a well-lit and ventilated southern slope. The best soils for it are chernozem, forest soils with a high content of humus and loams with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. For planting, choose one- or two-year-old redcurrant seedlings with an extensive and healthy root system about 20 cm long. Before planting, remove all leaves from the seedlings and hold their roots in a bucket of water for 2-3 hours.

Planting red currants in autumn.

2-3 weeks before the autumn planting, dig a hole with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a depth of about 40 cm. Thoroughly mix the soil taken out of the hole with 8-10 kg of peat or humus, 200 g of superphosphate and 40 g of wood ash or potassium sulfate - this is a calculation for 1 plant. Pour half of the mixture into the hole, and leave the second part nearby. If you plant several bushes, dig holes for them at a distance of at least 1.5-2 m. When planting red currants along a fence or paths, step back from them at least one and a half meters.

When, after 2-3 weeks, the earth in the pit settles, lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and straighten them. Place the seedling itself straight or at an angle, deepening the root neck by 5-6 cm to stimulate the formation of additional roots and renewal shoots. When filling the roots of the seedling with a nutritious earthen mixture, shake it from time to time so that there are no voids in the roots. When the pit is filled up, compact the soil, make a circular furrow around the seedling at a distance of 20 cm and fill it with water several times. After the water has been absorbed, mulch the area around the seedling with peat or humus, and cut the shoots at a height of 10-15 cm, leaving no more than 2-3 buds on each - this measure contributes to the formation of a well-branched bush and the development of a strong root system. Before the seedling takes root, it must be watered at least twice a week.

Planting red currants in spring.

spring planting red currants are carried out from mid to late April in the same order as autumn, with one exception: pits for seedlings and a fertile mixture are prepared in the fall, but only organic matter is added to the soil, and phosphorus and potassium are added to it before planting.

Red currant care

Caring for red currants in spring.

At the end of March, as soon as the weather permits, it is time for sanitary pruning and the formation of red currant bushes. In April, red currants are fed with urea on wet ground, and then, as soon as the top layer of soil dries out, they begin to loosen the area around the bushes to a depth of 6-8 cm. After that, level the surface with a rake and mulch the area with a layer of peat 5-10 cm thick.

If frosts return in May, during the redcurrant flowering period, you may have to protect the bushes from them with smoke. At the same time, red currants are examined in order to identify specimens infected with doubleness (growth) - on such plants, bell-shaped flowers become separate-petal. If you find single terry inflorescences, cut them off, but if the entire bush is affected, uproot it without delay.

To prevent redcurrants from becoming thirsty in spring, keep the soil on the site in a slightly damp state. Remove weeds while loosening the soil, which should be carried out to a depth of 6-8 cm once every two to three weeks. The aisles are loosened to a depth of 10-12 cm.

Caring for red currants in summer.

In June, red currants are fed with organic fertilizers. In addition to root top dressing, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of micronutrient fertilizers over the leaves. If you find moth nests, collect them from the bushes and destroy them along with the berries affected by the pest. You will most likely have to do this several times.

When it's time to harvest, pick redcurrants as they ripen in whole clusters in small trays or boxes that won't wrinkle the fruit. Currant after harvesting needs mandatory watering, followed by loosening.

Caring for red currants in autumn.

At the beginning of autumn you can do vegetative propagation red currant. At the end of September or a little later, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the pre-moistened soil in the area with red currants, after which the soil is dug up for their incorporation.

After the leaf fall, the currants are pruned, and if the autumn turns out to be dry, the winter watering of the site is carried out.

Redcurrant processing.

In early March, red currant bushes need to be awakened from winter sleep - poured from a watering can with water heated to 80 ºC. After that, on the still dormant buds, preventive treatment of bushes from diseases is carried out. blue vitriol or Nitrafen. The next prophylactic treatment of red currants from fungal diseases with the same drugs is carried out 10 days after harvest.

During the budding period, for prophylactic purposes, red currants are treated against insect pests with Actellik, Karbofos or Rovikurt preparations. Re-treatment is carried out after harvest.

Watering red currants.

Despite the fact that the red currant, due to its well-developed root system, is much more tolerant of dry conditions than the black currant, the lack of water retards its growth, and during the period of fruit formation and filling, it often leads to their crushing and even shedding. Therefore, regular and sufficient watering of red currants during the period of active growth and formation of ovaries, that is, in early June, as well as in late July and early August, when the berries are poured, becomes especially important.

Watering is carried out at the rate of 20-30 liters per m² of plot in order to soak the soil to a depth of 30-40 cm. Water is poured into circular grooves 10-15 cm deep, made at a distance of 30-40 cm from the bush. You can arrange an irrigation platform around each bush, enclosing it with an earthen roller 15 cm high. When the well-moistened soil dries, loosen the area so that a crust does not form on its surface. If you gave yourself the trouble in spring to mulch the land on the site with humus, decomposed peat or rotted manure at the rate of 10-15 kg per bush, you will have to water the site and loosen it much less often.

Top dressing of red currant.

In April, urea is added to the moistened soil at the site for embedding at the rate of 10-15 g per m². In June, red currants are fed with 1 liter of slurry infusion diluted in a bucket of water or with a solution of half a liter of bird droppings infusion in 10 liters of water. If it was not possible to find organic matter, add 10-15 g of urea under each bush, the same amount of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate.

In summer, red currant needs foliar top dressing with microelements. To do this, in 10 liters of water you need to dissolve up to 2.5 g of boric acid, 5-10 g of manganese sulfate, 1-2 g of copper sulfate, 2-3 g of ammonium molybdate and the same amount of zinc sulfate. Processing of red currant leaves is carried out on a cloudy day or in the evening.

In early October, red currants are fed for the last time: under each bush, 10-15 kg of organic fertilizer, 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium chloride are added for digging. Mineral fertilizers can be replaced with a garden or fruit mixture at the rate of 500 g per bush.

When to prune red currants.

Growing red currants involves regular shaping, rejuvenating and sanitary pruning of bushes. Redcurrant pruning is carried out in early spring or late autumn when she is at rest.

The structure of the red currant is similar to the structure of the black one, but its fruiting shoots last twice as long. Fruit buds of red currant almost always form at the tops of annual shoots, and its fruitlets are located at the top of the branches, so when cutting, the tips are by no means cut off. Since the fruiting period of red currant shoots is longer than that of black currant shoots, its anti-aging pruning is not done so often.

Pruning red currants in spring.

In a one-year-old seedling of red currant, all shoots are shortened by half to the outer bud, forming a compact spherical bush. Since redcurrant is very photophilous plant and when the bush thickens, it sharply loses productivity, its bush is formed within 5-6 years from no more than 15-20 branches, and from the seventh year, in addition to sanitary pruning, which involves the removal of unnecessary, diseased, broken or dried branches, it will be necessary to carry out rejuvenating - remove branches that have served their time and regulate the growth of zero shoots. Of the zero shoots, the most developed and well-located ones are left for renewal, that is, those that grow closer to the bush, do not lie on the ground and do not intersect with other shoots. They are shortened by half the length to the outer kidney, directed upwards, and the remaining increments are cut out.

Pruning red currants in autumn.

In the autumn, after leaf fall, when the red currant bears fruit and enters a dormant period, sanitary pruning of the bushes is carried out: broken, diseased, dried or growing branches are removed. If for some reason you haven't done a formative pruning in the spring, you can do it in the fall.

Reproduction of red currant

How to propagate red currant.

Of course, you can buy redcurrant seedlings in any market, but there is no guarantee that you will be sold exactly the varieties that you decide to buy. If you do not want to experience disappointment, breed yourself. Red currant is propagated vegetatively - by layering, cuttings and dividing the bush.

Propagation of red currant by layering.

This is the simplest and most effective way to propagate a culture. For him, they choose a young bush of three, four or five years, loosen the soil under it in early spring, fertilize it, make grooves 8-10 cm deep in the soil, going from the center of the bush, put well-developed one- or two-year-old shoots in them, securely fix them in several places with metal hooks and cover the middle part of the layers with soil so that their top remains on the surface. When the shoots developing on the layers reach a height of 10-12 cm, they are spudded twice with an interval of 2-3 weeks with moist, loose soil. All summer, layering is watered abundantly, mulching the area around them with organic matter.

In autumn, rooted and sprouted layers are separated from the mother liquor and, dividing them along the length into separate plants with a root system, are transplanted to a permanent place. In two or three years, the most developed of them will already begin to bear fruit.

Propagation of red currant cuttings.

Cutting too reliable way breeding. It is easier and faster to root lignified cuttings of red currant from annual shoots grown from the root or on two to three-year-old branches. The thickness of the handle should be at least 8 mm, and the length should be 18-20 cm. planting material in the fall, after which the cuttings are laid in a box with wet sand to form the rudiments of roots and kept for 2.5-3 months at a temperature of 2-3 ºC, and then placed under the snow or in the vegetable box of the refrigerator until spring planting.

Plant cuttings in open ground in early spring obliquely at a distance of 20 cm from each other under plastic bottles or glass jars. The depth of immersion of the cutting into the ground is as follows: only two buds should remain above the ground, and the rest are immersed in the soil. The soil around the cuttings is compacted and watered, and when it dries, the area is mulched with humus or fine peat. Rooted cuttings in September are transplanted to a permanent place.

You can propagate currants and green cuttings, however they take too long to form root system to the detriment of the ground part, therefore, they are planted in a permanent place no earlier than a year later, and, therefore, they begin to bear fruit later than red currants from lignified cuttings.

Reproduction of red currant by dividing the roots.

Usually, this method of reproduction is resorted to when there is a need to transplant a currant bush to another place. First, all diseased, old and broken branches are removed from the bush, after which the bush is dug up, divided into parts with a sharp sterile instrument, each of which should have well-developed roots and shoots, then the cuts are processed with crushed coal and the cuts are planted in the prepared holes for 5- 7 cm deeper than grew mother bush. After planting, the shoots are shortened to 15-20 cm, generously watered and continue to moisten the soil daily until parts of the bush take root in a new place.

Pests and diseases of red currant

Diseases of red currant.

Red currant diseases are typical for all Gooseberries. On our website there is an article "Diseases and pests of gooseberries", which describes in detail all the dangers that await representatives of this family, so we will not dwell on each disease in detail, but simply remind you of them.

So, red currants are affected by anthracnose, white spotting, European powdery mildew, terry (growth, reversion), nectrium drying of shoots, striped mosaic, goblet and columnar rust, gray rot. In the fight against fungal diseases, fungicides such as Bordeaux liquid, Kaptan, Homitsin, Ftalan, Topsin M, Fundazol, colloidal sulfur, Kuprozan and other drugs with a similar effect showed good results. And such viral diseases, like terry and mosaic, unfortunately, no medicine can cure. In the event that the virus has affected only individual branches or inflorescences, cut them out and burn them, but if the entire bush is infected, you will have to get rid of it.

Pests of red currant.

Just like black, white currants and gooseberries, red currant bushes can be affected by blackcurrant fruit, gooseberry yellow and pale-footed sawflies, currant gall midges, glass bugs, bud and spider mites, leaf gall and gooseberry shoot aphids, gooseberry moth, moth and biennial leafworm.

The best insecticides today are Aktellik, Karbofos and Rovikurt. Good results in pest control were also shown by Aktara, Metaphos, Etaphos Ambush, Phosfamide, Vofatoks, Tedion, Tsidial, Zolon, Antio and others.

We would like to remind you that mostly weakened and neglected plants are affected by disease or insects, therefore the main protection against diseases and pests is the observance of agricultural practices of the culture and timely care. And, of course, preventive treatments of bushes in early spring and after fruiting will not interfere.

Varieties of red currant

Redcurrant is popular all over the world. On an industrial scale, currants are grown in the USA, the Netherlands, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland, Germany, Great Britain, Latvia and Estonia. The demand for culture is caused not only by its palatability, but also valuable medicinal properties that it possesses. We offer you an acquaintance with the most popular varieties of red currant.

Large varieties of red currant.

Large-fruited currants are represented by the following varieties:

• – Viksne– large sweet redcurrant of Latvian selection early term ripening with berries of dark cherry color and sweet and sour taste. Viksne is winter-hardy and drought-resistant variety, almost not affected by diseases and pests. The yield from one bush is 5-7 kg;
• – Ural beauty- a high-yielding and winter-hardy self-fertile variety with large red berries of a sweet dessert taste weighing up to 1.7 g. The variety is not damaged by sawflies and moths, it is also resistant to powdery mildew;
• – Fertodi- a self-fertile, fruitful, winter-hardy and fungus-resistant variety of Hungarian selection with rounded bright red berries weighing up to 1.2 g of a pleasant sweet and sour taste;
• – Darnitsa- large red currant, the weight of berries of which reaches 1.5 g. A variety of medium ripening, drought-resistant and frost-resistant, high-yielding, rarely affected by diseases. Brilliant dark red berries are used both for fresh consumption and for freezing and processing;
• – Rondom- high-yielding, anthracnose-resistant, frost-resistant late variety of Dutch selection with large berries of sweet and sour taste, ripening on low compact bushes.

The varieties Asora, Obsky Zakat, Ilyinka also differ in large-fruitedness.

Sweet varieties of red currant.

The most famous of the sweet varieties are:

• – Sugar- fragrant, tasty and sweet red currant, which can be eaten directly from the bush. However, the variety is characterized by low self-fertility, and for good fruiting it needs pollinators - for example, the red currant of the Natalie variety;
• – Red Cross- a variety of medium ripening with large light red berries of dessert taste, shrinking towards the end of the brush. Unfortunately, the variety is affected by anthracnose;
• – early sweet– winter-hardy productive variety, demanding on the care and fertility of the soil, with medium-sized sweet light red berries aligned in size;
• – Svetlana- winter-hardy and productive variety of medium ripening with small rounded berries of light red color with thin skin;
• – Houghton Castle- Western European winter-hardy and productive variety with red berries of medium size and pleasant taste.

Early varieties of red currant.

Red currant varieties of early ripening include:

• – Victoria – high yielding variety of European origin with medium-sized berries of good taste, eaten fresh and suitable for processing;
• – crystal- self-fertile variety with yellowish round berries with a transparent skin of good balanced taste, medium or large size;
• – firstborn- frost-resistant, high-yielding and resistant to fungal infections red currant of Finnish selection, from the bush of which you can pick up to 10 kg of sweet-sour, medium-sized berries that taste good. The variety is a universal pollinator for self-fertile varieties;
• – Serpentine- resistant to diseases and pests, high-yielding variety with large sweet and sour berries located on long racemes;
• – Generous- resistant to anthracnose and bud mites, high-yielding and winter-hardy red currant with light red, moderately sour berries.

Well-known early varieties of red currants are also Dutch red, Early sweet, Laturnais, Chulkovskaya, Rachnovskaya and Konstantinovskaya.

Medium varieties of red currant.

There are much more varieties of red currants of medium ripening than early or late. Of these, most often grown:

• – Versailles Red- productive large-fruited and self-fertile variety with large red berries with a dense skin, used both fresh and processed;
• – the Rose- disease-resistant dessert variety with pink one-dimensional berries of medium size, delicate sweet taste with a slight sourness;
• – Buzhanskaya- Ukrainian high-yielding and resistant to mycosis variety with bright red large berries weighing up to 1 g, suitable both for fresh consumption and for freezing and processing;
• – Gazelle- high-yielding winter-hardy and fungus-resistant variety with small, but very tasty red berries;
• – Red Andreychenko- self-fertile, winter-hardy, high-yielding variety, resistant to fungal diseases, with red rounded berries weighing up to 0.8 g, pleasant sweet and sour taste.

In addition to those described, other mid-ripening redcurrant varieties are known that are popular in amateur gardening: Purple, Hero, Gonduin, Reiby Castle, Star of the North, Natalie, Polyana, Samburskaya, Vika, Niva, Beloved and others.

Late varieties of red currant.

Among the varieties of late ripening, most often cultivated in culture:

• – Valentinovka- winter-hardy, high-yielding self-fertile variety, resistant to powdery mildew, with medium-sized one-dimensional berries of a sour taste, with high gelling properties;
• – marmalade- winter-hardy, productive and resistant to anthracnose and powdery mildew variety of very late ripening with orange-red berries of sour taste, medium or large size;
• – Osipovskaya- winter-hardy, productive and disease-resistant variety of Russian breeding with dark red berries of the same size and good taste;
• – dutch red- a hardy, unpretentious, winter-hardy, productive and anthracnose-resistant variety of Dutch selection with medium-sized red berries of a sweet and sour taste with a transparent skin;
• – Lapland- winter-hardy, productive self-fertile variety with light red berries of medium and small size and excellent, delicate sweet and sour taste.

In addition to those named, late-ripening varieties Dana, Ogonyok, Orlovskaya Zvezda, Memorable, Orlovchanka, Rosita, Gift of Summer, Ural Dawns and others are grown in the culture.

The best varieties of red currant.

Taking into account such criteria as the size of the berries, their taste, the amount of vitamins and sugars they contain, as well as the degree of their winter hardiness, Viksne, Dutch red, Cascade, Ural beauty and Serpentine can be considered the best varieties of red currant.

Varieties of red currant for the Moscow region.

Redcurrant is one of the most winter-hardy berry crops, and it can be successfully grown in areas with a cool climate. Red currant for the Moscow region should have exactly such a quality as winter hardiness. What varieties can we recommend for growing in the Moscow region? The best redcurrant, in addition to winter hardiness, should have other advantages - a fairly large size, a high content of vitamin C and sugars, good taste and, preferably, flavor. Varieties with the listed qualities include the following:

• – Asya- medium-early high-yielding and disease-resistant variety with dark red berries of medium size, sweet and sour taste;
• – Natalie- fruitful self-fertile and winter-hardy variety, which is highly resistant to diseases and pests. The berries of this variety are large, rounded, deep red in color and sweet and sour;
• – Jonker van Tets- winter-hardy, fruitful, disease-resistant self-fertile and early ripening variety with round or almost pear-shaped large bright red berries of a pleasant taste;
• – Rachnovskaya- high-yielding, winter-hardy self-fertile variety, resistant to diseases and pests. The berries of the currant of this variety are medium in size, red, sweet and sour;
• – Hope- extra early high-yielding winter-hardy self-fertile variety, resistant to pests and diseases, with round purple-red berries of medium size, sweet and sour taste and universal purpose.

Properties of red currant

Useful properties of red currant.

Red currant berries are rich in vitamins A, C, E, potassium, iron and selenium, apple and succinic acid, nitrogenous and pectin substances. They are rich in antioxidants that can fight cancer cells. What makes redcurrant useful for humans is primarily the high content of provitamin A in its berries, which is necessary for healthy hair, skin and bones, as well as preventing aging.

The presence in the red currant of a unique substance oxycoumarin ensures the prevention of heart attacks and has a positive effect on the activity of the cardiovascular system. People suffering from atherosclerosis are shown daily consumption of red currants because of the pectins in it, which remove excess cholesterol and thereby prevent the formation of plaques in the vessels.

In addition, red currant improves the functioning of the stomach and intestines, increases sweating, which helps to remove excess salts, toxins and toxins from the body. It has anti-inflammatory, choleretic, antipyretic, hemostatic, cleansing and laxative properties.

Regular use of red currant juice normalizes the level of hemoglobin in the blood, relieves constipation and uric acid salts, and helps pregnant women fight the symptoms of toxicosis - nausea and vomiting. Athletes juice helps to maintain tone and restore strength after the competition. Drinking juice reduces the temperature in fevers in children and adults. It is also indicated for anemia, diabetes, loss of strength and chronic fatigue.

Compared to many other berries and fruits that are beneficial for the body, red currant is a product that does not cause allergies - it is prescribed even for dermatitis.

Red currant - contraindications.

But, despite such an obvious benefit of red currant, one cannot remain silent about the fact that it can harm some people. These categories include patients with gastric and duodenal ulcers, acute gastritis hepatitis, and hemophilia. Regular consumption of red currant is undesirable for people with increased blood clotting.

Red currant is a berry crop that has gained wide popularity in our country. Properly carried out cultivation in home gardening is a guarantee of obtaining a stable and high yield.

The varieties popular in the soil and climatic conditions of our country differ not only in terms of ripening and yield levels, but also have varietal features according to the requirements for the main growing conditions, the degree of winter hardiness and cultivation agrotechnics. In addition to popular varieties "Radiant" And "Marmalade", there are more modern and promising varieties.

Frost-resistant varieties of red currant

For cultivation in central Russia and more northern regions it is recommended to purchase varieties of red currants that have sufficient frost resistance, and also have sufficiently powerful and well-developed branches, capable of withstanding a significant build-up of snow mass:

• "Chulkovskaya" – early variety, forming a slightly sprawling, vigorous bush, with bright red berries that have an exquisite dessert taste. Stable yield reaches 10 kg per plant;
• "Beloved"- a popular variety that forms a semi-spreading and medium-sized bush with sweet and sour berries of an attractive appearance. Differs in high productivity and excellent winter hardiness;
• "Dutch Rose"- a tall, but rather compact plant, forming large pink berries with excellent dessert taste. High productivity is successfully combined with cold resistance;
• "Ural souvenir"- winter-hardy popular variety, characterized by juicy, bright red berries with a sour-sweet taste. Plant of medium vigor, with average spreading.

For cultivation in central Russia and more northern regions, it is recommended to purchase redcurrant varieties that have sufficient frost resistance.

Gallery: redcurrant (25 photos)

Early and mid-season varieties

Almost all early and mid-ripening red-fruited varieties enjoy well-deserved popularity among domestic gardeners, but The following varieties are in great demand:

• folk variety "Chulkovskaya", forming tall and slightly sprawling bushes with thick tassels and bright red berries;
• "Early Sweet" with rather powerful, medium-spreading bushes and berry brushes of medium length;
• "Konstantinovskaya" with medium-sized, moderately spreading bushes and, as a rule, rather large berries of a satisfactory taste;
• "Erstling aus filanden" forms tall and dense, but rather compact high-yielding bushes with long tassels and large, bright red berries of very good taste;
• Foreign "Junk van tets" forms a strong growth force, with vertically arranged shoots, rather compact, dense and strongly leafy bushes, distinguished by long tassels and bright red, large berries.

Varieties no less popular in our country "Beloved", "Red Cross", "Generous" And "Ob sunset".

How to grow red currants (video)

Large varieties of red currant

The most large-fruited varieties with good taste qualities of a ripened crop are:

• "Transdanubian";
• "Red Andreichenko";
• "Dream";
• "Natalie".

Technology and timing of planting red currants in summer cottages

To get a high yield, it is necessary to plant seedlings of berry garden crops correctly and in a timely manner, as well as provide competent care for full growth and development in the future.

Almost all early and mid-ripening red-fruited varieties enjoy well-deserved popularity among domestic gardeners.

Terms and technology of autumn planting

Red currant seedlings are planted both in spring and autumn. About a couple of weeks before the autumn planting, pits 50-60x40 cm in size are dug. The soil taken out of the pit is thoroughly mixed with a bucket of peat chips or humus with the addition of 180-200 g of superphosphate and 35-40 g of wood ash or potassium sulfate. About ½ of the resulting mixture is poured into the planting hole, and the second part is used to fill the root system of the plant.

The standard distance between plants planted in autumn is one and a half meters. It is advisable to allow the soil in the planting hole to settle before planting a berry seedling. When planting, the plant is installed in a hole straight or at a slight slope., with a deepening of the root neck by about 50-60 mm, which will stimulate the formation of roots of an additional type and shoot renewal.

Around the planted seedlings, with a distance of a quarter of a meter, a special circular furrow is arranged to carry out irrigation activities. After watering, it is imperative to mulch the trunk circles. peat chips or humus, after which all shoots are cut at a distance of 100-150 mm from the ground level, which will allow you to save about three buds on each branch. The result of such an event is the good development of bush branching and the formation of a powerful root system.

Red currant seedlings are planted both in spring and autumn

How to plant red currants in spring

Planting red currants in the spring is recommended to be carried out from about the middle of the second spring month until the onset of summer. A characteristic difference between the spring planting of currants and the autumn planting of a berry crop on a personal plot is the mandatory introduction of organic matter during pre-planting soil preparation and addition to landing pits before placing in it the root system of a seedling of a mixture of phosphorus-potassium type.

Methods of propagation of red currant

propagate garden berry culture possible in several ways . Domestic gardeners prefer to propagate red currant cuttings. It is necessary to propagate the popular garden berry crop through lignified cuttings in the autumn.

Pre-cut cuttings are recommended to be planted with a distance of 10 or 15 cm from each other. Be sure to leave two kidneys above the soil level. After planting, it is required to carefully compact and compact the soil, and then carry out abundant irrigation measures to mulch the plantings with a relatively thin layer of humus or compost.

A slightly less popular method of reproduction is the use of layering. With the help of horizontal layering, the plant multiplies even before the active leafing phase. The parent bush must be completely healthy, with the best varietal qualities, including annual and high productivity, excellent quality characteristics harvest, increased resistance to diseases and frost.

How to plant red currants (video)

In this case, the one-year or two-year branch is carefully bent to the ground, into previously prepared soil grooves, after which it is fixed. The apical part of such a branch is necessarily shortened, which will stimulate active growth processes. The laid and fixed branches are lightly sprinkled with moist and fairly loose soil, after which an irrigation event is carried out.

Transfer to a new place

Transplanting to a new place is a fairly frequent phenomenon, therefore it is sometimes accompanied by a forced division of the bush. Standard bush division is not a very popular and common method of reproduction, therefore, as a rule, it is used in the process of redevelopment of a personal or garden plot.

In this case, an adult bush is carefully dug out, after which it is very carefully divided into parts with a pair of well-developed shoots and a high-quality root system. Branches must be severely pruned. In the process of planting in a new permanent place, all resulting divisions should be deepened by about 50-70 mm, which contributes to the formation a large number young and high-quality shoots.

Transplanting red currants to a new place is a fairly common phenomenon.

Caring for red currants in autumn

You need to take care of the plant from early spring to late autumn. Autumn care is not particularly difficult, but includes a number of mandatory agrotechnical activities.

Pruning red currants in autumn

Pruning berry bushes is necessary not only in a timely manner, but also correctly. young plant is formed with the removal of all weak and diseased shoots. If necessary, perform rejuvenation, a multi-stage pruning of the bush is performed.

When examining a bush, first of all, old branches are identified, more than five or six years old, which have low productivity and are subject to mandatory removal. In addition to such branches, all shoots thickening the bush, diseased, too weakened or damaged branches by diseases and pests are removed.

Feeding and watering

Red currants are quite tolerant of short-term dry periods, but a prolonged lack of moisture in the soil at the stage of intensive crop growth can have a very negative effect on their number and size. Particular attention should be paid to irrigation activities in the first decade of summer.

In order for redcurrant bushes to please with stable and abundant fruiting, for one season for each square meter berry plantations it is desirable to contribute about half a bucket of organic matter. Mineral nitrogen-containing top dressing is recommended to be done in the spring, and in the fall it is required to focus on phosphorus- potash fertilizers.

Preparing the berry for winter

Proper and timely preparation of currants for wintering is a simple process and is quite accessible even to novice gardeners. Such activities will allow the next season to get an increase in yield up to 70-80%, and also allows the berry bush to easily and comfortably overwinter.

If necessary, in little snow and frosty winters, you can bend down the aerial part of the berry bush and provide shelter. Spruce branches or dry foliage are most often used as such shelter, but the use of non-woven material is also allowed.

Caring for red currants in spring

In the spring, the first priority is the timely removal winter shelter, which will prevent the above-ground part of the berry bush from decaying.

Spring preventive treatment

From damage by anthracosis, septariasis, scale insects, aphids, as well as powdery mildew, eradication spraying with DNOC is carried out in spring. Also, a good result is the treatment of plants with solutions based on iron sulphate. Very important even before the stage of mass flowering, spray with Actellik, Fufanon, Akarin, Fitoverm, Inta-CM or Iskra.

How to cut red currants (video)

Sanitary pruning

Immediately after processing or before this event, you can perform sanitary pruning of the aerial part of the berry bush. All frozen, damaged, too old or diseased shoots, as well as branches that contribute to the overall thickening of the plant, are subject to mandatory removal.

Red currant - perennial deciduous shrub height from 0.5 to 2 m. wild found on the edges of forests, on the banks of rivers or streams throughout Eurasia. This is a favorite berry of many gardeners, modern varieties with good care capable of producing up to 10–12 kg of juicy berries of a sour taste.

The history of growing red currants

The first mention of red currant in Western Europe belong to the 15th century. The plant was used to form a hedge, and the berries were used for medicinal purposes. Around the same time, currants began to be grown in Russia, mainly at monasteries, using berries as medicine and making tinctures from them.

A well-groomed red currant bush is very beautiful during the ripening period of berries and can decorate any garden.

Currently, the leading country in the cultivation of red currants is the United States. But even in Russia they do not forget about this culture: on almost every garden plot you can find 1-2 bushes.

Red currant is a winter-hardy plant, withstands frosts down to -40 o C. In summer, thanks to a powerful root system, it suffers much less from heat than black currant, and the life expectancy of a bush is up to 20 years without a decrease in yield.

In dry gardens without watering and human attention, red currant bushes grow up to 50–70 cm in height and produce a small crop. With regular top dressing and watering or in low-lying places where ground water are close to the ground, redcurrant grows into a powerful bush up to 2 m in height and can produce up to 12 kg of berries.

Currant blooms with inconspicuous flowers collected in a brush

Currant blooms in May with inconspicuous yellow-green flowers collected in a brush. Depending on the region and variety of currant, ripening of berries may begin by mid-June or July. Ripening is uneven: the berries that are in the sun are the first to sing. Red currants rarely fall off the bush, so they can be harvested as needed. They pick red currants like grapes - with a brush, without tearing off the berries, so they are better stored and transported.

Red currants are harvested from the bush in clusters

Redcurrant satisfies both hunger and thirst; it has a lot of vitamin C, the daily norm of which can be replenished by eating just a handful of this berry. In addition, the berry contains pectin, so redcurrant jelly is thick. Compotes, jams, jams, jelly, marmalade, tinctures, wines, liqueurs are prepared from it.

Varieties of red currant

In order to enjoy fresh redcurrant berries all summer long, you can plant varieties that differ in terms of ripening: early, mid-ripening and late. You can also pick up bushes with different shades of berries: red, burgundy, pink. Some varieties of red currant bear fruit well as single bushes, that is, they are self-fertile (able to be pollinated by their own pollen), while others need a pollinator neighbor.

Depending on the variety, red currant berries can be small (0.7 g) or large, reaching 1.5 cm in diameter and weighing up to 1.5 g.

Table: main varieties of red currant

Photo gallery: varieties of red currant for the Moscow region

2 weeks before planting the seedling, a hole is prepared with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of a shovel bayonet

We mix the excavated soil with a bucket of compost (humus), a glass of ash and 200 g of superphosphate. We fall asleep again in the hole and carefully water to compact the soil.

Planting red currant cuttings

If you want to try new variety, then it is better to order planting material with a closed root system - in pots or special bags.

It is better to buy cuttings with a closed root system

Local nurseries often grow currants on fresh air without pots and are sold with an open root system, so take care of the safety of the roots in advance: take a damp cloth and a bag with you to wrap the bottom of the seedling.

The best time for planting red currants in central Russia is the beginning of autumn, literally the first days of September: the summer heat is gone, and the cuttings take root perfectly. For the southern regions, the landing dates are shifted a month later.

Stages of planting red currant:

How to save redcurrant seedlings before planting

Sometimes it happens that the purchased seedlings arrive too early in the spring, when there is still snow in the garden and planting in a permanent place is not possible.

Storing a seedling with an open root system in warm apartment is simply unacceptable. When it is not possible to place the plant in a cool basement, for example, if the buds have already opened, then you need to take a pot or planter with fertile soil and temporarily plant a seedling there.

Small seedlings obtained in autumn can be stored until spring without planting them in pots, but by laying them on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. First you need to wrap the roots with a damp cloth, and the trunks with thick paper.

Planting red currant seeds

Currant reproduces well by seeds, but very often the descendants do not repeat the qualities of the parent bush, especially if several different varieties red currants, which can be pollinated.

Usually, the seeds of a ripe berry are simply squeezed onto the soil, sprinkling them with earth. Spring waters promote swelling and germination of seeds, and by the end of summer small but strong seedlings grow.

Video: seed currant

Friends and foes of red currant

Many gardeners are aware of the compatibility of vegetables and specifically select pairs for better fruiting and neighborhood. But not everyone even suspects that among bushes and trees there is also mutual love and enmity.

Most often, you can observe the planting of shrubs along the fence, and black and red currants are planted side by side. It turns out that the best neighbor for red currants is gooseberries, and black currants prefer honeysuckle as a neighbor, and not their red-berry relatives.

The best neighbor for red currants is gooseberries

In addition, all berry bushes love planting tomatoes, marigolds, calendula, mint and other aromatic herbs in their near-stem circle. With their essential oils they drive away various currant pests.

Red currant nutrition

In the year of planting, red currant does not need additional feeding, because a significant amount of humus is introduced into the pit and mineral fertilizers.

In subsequent years, currants should be fed at least 2 times a year: in spring and autumn.

Table: top dressing of red currant

In addition to these dressings, it is very good to mulch the near-stem circle with straw, grass, hay, leaves and spill it with preparations containing beneficial bacteria (Shining, Baikal EM-1, Vostok) once every 2 weeks.

Never feed currants with nitrogenous fertilizers at the end of summer - a new growth of shoots will begin, which will not have time to prepare for winter and freeze.

Photo gallery: preparations to increase soil fertility

To rejuvenate the plant, all branches are cut flush with the ground.

1. First of all, remove old thick and dark brown branches, cutting them off at ground level.
2. Remove fattening shoots growing upwards, leaving sloping ones.
3. Remove horizontally directed lower branches.
4. Remove shoots growing inside the bush.

Red currant loves to have a bush blown by the wind, so a regular haircut is a must.

Reproduction of red currant

The easiest way to propagate currants is by cuttings or layering - in this case, the young bush will completely repeat the mother plant.

Reproduction by cuttings

1. At the end of August, when rejuvenating pruning, cut off a few shoots and cut into pieces 20-25 cm long, remove the leaves.
2. Each shoot should have 4–5 buds, make the lower cut oblique 0.5–1 cm below the bud, and the upper cut straight 1 cm above the bud.
3. Dip each cutting with the lower part into Kornevin and plant it in the soil in a permanent place or for rooting in a separate bed with loose soil.
4. Plant the stalk at an angle of 45 °, with 2 buds immersed in the ground, and the rest should be above the ground.
5. When planting on a garden bed, leave 15–20 cm between the cuttings.
6. Water the cuttings and mulch with loose compost, peat or dry soil. Periodically monitor the soil so that it does not dry out.
7. By the end of autumn, the cuttings usually take root, next spring shoots appear from the buds.

Red currant stalk quickly takes root and takes root

Reproduction by layering

1. In the spring, last year's shoot is selected and bent to the ground, where a groove 5–8 cm deep has been specially dug.
2. The shoot is laid so that the crown is above the ground, and the shoot itself is in the groove.
3. The shoot is pinned to the ground with wire arcs and sprinkled with loose soil by 1 cm.
4. When sprouts appear from the buds and grow up to 10 cm, they are sprinkled with loose soil almost to the top leaves.
5. It is important to keep the soil near the layers moist.
6. Soil filling is carried out several times during the summer.
7. In mid-September, the shoot is cut off from the mother bush and carefully dug up.
8. The branch is cut into pieces according to the number of rooted shoots and planted in a permanent place.

Several shoots can grow from one layer

Treatment of red currants from pests and diseases

Plants with high immunity are rarely affected by diseases and pests, so you need to follow the rules of agricultural technology and carry out preventive spraying.

1. Plant your plants in a well-ventilated, sunny area.
2. Do not thicken plantings, leave 1–2 m between plants, and the distance to buildings should be at least 1 m.
3. Remove diseased branches or parts of the plant in a timely manner - do not allow diseases to spread.
4. Do a rejuvenating pruning of the bush for better ventilation.
5. In order to prevent in the spring, spray the currants with a mixture of drugs: Fitolavin + Farmayod + Fitoverm (dilute 1 tablespoon of each drug in 10 liters of water).
6. Every week, starting from the appearance of the first leaves, spray the currants with a bio-cocktail: dilute 2 granules of Ecoberin and Healthy Garden in 1 liter of water and add 2 drops of liquid HB-101.

Such activities make it possible to grow currants without the use of chemicals, since the proposed preparations are biological.

Photo gallery: preparations for the prevention of pests and diseases on red currants

Phytolavin helps to cope with viral diseases Farmayod is used for bacterial infections
Fitoverm - a biological product from pests
Ecoberin improves plant immunity Healthy Garden helps the plant cope with adverse conditions
HB-101 - natural growth stimulator and immunity activator

Biococktail increases plant immunity, reduces Negative consequences from stress: heat, temperature changes, wind.

Redcurrant has long been considered a health berry. Its bushes can reach a height of 1.5 meters and bear fruit for decades. Flowering of this variety begins towards the end of May. Full ripening of berries occurs in July.

Varieties of red currant

The most common types of berries with relatively high winter hardiness are Gazelle, Houghton Castle and Natalie. The first grade is medium early. Its berries are small in size with a characteristic sweet and sour taste. The second variety is a vigorous bush with thick brown shoots. Its fruits are similar in taste and size to Gazelle berries. As for the Natalie variety, it is one of the latest. Its main advantage is high productivity.

One cannot ignore such a variety as Versailles red, which is very common in the Baltic states. Its bushes begin to bloom at the end of April. Distinguished by its wrinkled leaves and short branch length. The fruits are sweet.

The Dutch red is also very unpretentious to weather conditions. This is a very long-lived and fruitful variety that can produce crops for 30 years.

In Russia, another type of currant, brought back to the USSR from Britain, gained great popularity. This is a variety with a loud name Red Cross. The ideal place for its cultivation is the north of Kazakhstan. The berries of this variety weigh up to 1 g and taste like Bushes - sprawling and medium-sized.

Soil for planting

Best suited for red currants are well-lit, open areas. If this condition is not met, then subsequently the berries will turn pale and lose their sweetness. Also, this variety prefers sandy, loose or loamy soils. In the event that the soil was very waterlogged in spring or the place itself is low, it is recommended to plant currants in low beds. Po should be neutral or weak.

Red currants are planted in autumn to a depth of 35 cm. It is important that the hole is at least 50 cm in diameter. Compost or rotted manure is used to fertilize the soil. However, gardeners recommend adding 50 g of superphosphate and (per 10 liters of liquid) to the mixture. It would be useful to fertilize the soil in the hole with diluted wood ash.

Seedling preparation

The optimal time for planting red currants is the first half of September. However, first you need to prepare seedlings at home. It is recommended to cut lignified cuttings at the end of August. The seedling should have 3-4 strong buds. The tip and base of the branch are cut off, and the middle will be used as a future sprout. Its length should not exceed 30 cm. The distance from the lowest kidney to the edge is about 15 cm.

Seedlings should be installed in pots (boxes) vertically. The earth should be loose and slightly moist. Pots with future shoots are placed in a well-lit place. After two weeks, the cuttings will have a root system, and they can be transferred to the ground. The time of planting red currant directly depends on the growth of shoots in the room. For the maturation of the root system, it takes from 10 days, so it is recommended to harvest them in advance - at the end of summer.

Planting red currant

At the first stage, you should choose a place open to light and fertilize it. As soon as the root system of young shoots is strengthened, they can be planted in the ground. Experienced gardeners advise doing this procedure in the first three weeks of September, although the period depends on the climate. If the air temperature is above +20 ° C and the sun is constantly shining, and frosts come only closer to February, then autumn planting red currant is allowed until mid-October.

The main nuance in this simple matter is that the roots of the cuttings have time to become well established in the ground, otherwise winter time they won't be able to survive. It is also important here that the seedling hole is appropriate. Practice shows that its depth and width should be at least 50 cm. Two-thirds of the hole is covered with mineral fertilizers and organic additives. The top layer must be In it and red currants will be planted in the fall.

At the stage of preparation of the shoots, they have already formed thin roots, but additional processes are needed for the final strengthening in the soil. The scheme for planting red currants is as follows: the cuttings are inserted into pre-fertilized soil at an angle of 45 degrees, then covered with earth and manure. It is worth paying attention to the color of the bark. If it is green or blackish, then the plant is infected or withering, so it must be removed from the hole immediately.

2-week-old seedlings should not have leaves. If they appear, then they should be cut off so that all the juice and nutrients came only to the roots. Before the onset of the first frost, the plant should sit firmly in the ground.

Reproduction by cuttings

It should be noted right away that red currants are much more capricious than black currants for this kind of manipulation. Only young one- or two-year-old bushes are suitable for reproduction. Red currants are planted with cuttings in the first half of September. The length of the sprout should be about 25 cm. It is important that by the time the cutting is cut, the bush does not begin to dry out and is not infected.

Sprouts are stored for some time in the refrigerator, wrapped in film or covered with wet sand. Planting red currants in autumn allows them to be well rooted in the ground before frost and strong winds set in. However, some gardeners prefer to propagate the plant as early as April. The disadvantage of this planting is that the sprouts can quickly dry out, since the climate is hot in summer and is not suitable for the maturation of young shoots in the ground.

Before propagation, the cuttings must gain moisture. It is also important to refresh the lower cut (obliquely) just before planting. In addition, it is recommended to make several shallow cuts at the base of the cutting, from which young roots will subsequently appear. Planted to a depth of 20-30 cm. For the winter, you can cover the beds with a layer of straw or sawdust.

Care of young sprouts

For the first 3 years, red currants should be fertilized abundantly, as the kidneys constantly need minerals. At this time, the root system is formed, which will subsequently keep the bush for decades. Caring for young shoots requires not only mineral fertilizers, but also organic ones. Weeds should also be removed from the soil in a timely manner, which take all the moisture from the currant and close the light to its roots. Supports are also important, which hold the branches level under the weight of the berries. In winter, it is necessary to tie the branches to the ground so that they do not break under the snowdrifts.

Pruning young bushes

Planting red currants in the fall means removing unnecessary branches in the same period of time. According to gardeners, pruning should be carried out in the next 3-5 years after planting. The ideal time for clearing the bush from thickening is the end of October.

Dry and infected branches are removed to the base. Young shoots are cut so that 2-3 strong buds remain on them. There should not be more than 2 young sprouts on one base.

A cut with a diameter of 8 mm or more must be lubricated special solution so that fungus does not form on the stump.

Why redcurrant?

The berries of this plant are primarily useful for their vitamins A, B, C, E, H and PP. Also, the red currant contains beta-carotene, ash, iron, phosphorus, potassium, sodium and many other mineral components. Its berries do not contain a large amount of fat, so they are considered dietary. Calories in 100 g - only 39 cal. Most of all in red currant carbohydrates and provitamin A.

The berries of this plant are useful for atherosclerosis, anemia, diabetes, intestinal malfunctions and other common diseases.

Garden currant - irreplaceable source vitamins and valuable organic matter. To get a good harvest, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort, but the result is worth it. Features of growing red currant, important nuances care and possible problems - all the necessary information is given in our article.

The key to a good harvest is the right place for planting. Redcurrant loves well-lit places, without drafts and blackouts. The soil is preferably sandy or loamy, with good aeration and a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.

Landing time also matters. Most horticultural crops are best planted in early fall or mid-spring. Currant is no exception, but experienced gardeners notice that bushes planted in winter are more resistant to diseases and are far ahead of spring seedlings in their development.

The distance between the bushes should be at least two meters. Only under this condition can the plant develop normally. When planting under trellises, it is allowed to reduce the distance between plants, maintaining a distance of one meter.

Sufficient space must also be left between rows for maintenance and harvesting. It should be at least one and a half meters. If plantings are located along a fence or building, it is necessary to leave at least a meter for the normal growth of bushes. Active watering in the first week after planting guarantees the successful rooting of the seedling.

Caring for red currants in spring

Even before the first buds appear, it is important to carry out all the preparatory measures. To do this, the bush is revised, frozen and damaged branches are removed.

Around the root zone, a layer of mulch is necessarily removed, in which pests can winter. The new one is made from sawdust or straw, the topsoil is loosened and carefully watered. It should be noted that the roots of the plant are located close enough to the surface of the earth, so loosening is carried out carefully and shallowly.

After that, you can feed the plant, perform shaping pruning and dividing the bush. To eliminate the risk of freezing of young buds, it is possible to cover the bush with polyethylene or burlap for the time of night frosts, and sprinkle the root area with sawdust.

autumn care

After the plant goes into hibernation, and this happens in late September - early October, it is imperative to prepare the currant for wintering.

To do this, it is necessary to remove the leaves, cut off old and non-fruitful branches, and perform a shaping pruning of the bush. The last feeding in the fall is not carried out, but it is necessary to ensure good watering before frost to protect the root system from freezing.

Red currants are frost-resistant crops, but with a snowless winter, the roots can be damaged. good cover provide a layer of mulch or sawdust sprinkled at the base. Top can be covered with a thick film or tarp.

This must be done before the first frost, but not when warm weather, which can lead to accumulation excess moisture at the roots.

bush pruning

To form a beautiful and fertile bush, sanitary and formative pruning of shoots is mandatory. Currant does not like thickening, because this reduces the yield and size of the berries. Pruning is carried out only at rest (in early spring or mid-autumn), so as not to injure the plant.

The formation of a currant bush is as follows:

1. The annual growth is 2 - 3 young shoots. In total, an adult bush should have about 15 - 20 branches of different ages.
2. You should not leave old non-fruitful shoots (for red currants, the "venerable" age is 7 - 8 years).
3. All shoots growing inside the bush are removed. This prevents the bush from thickening and reducing yields.
4. IN summer time it is best to pinch the tops of the bush. This stimulates the active growth of replacement shoots.

The trellis method of growing red currant proved to be excellent. To do this, the bushes are planted in a row with a stable fence. The binding of shoots is carried out according to the vine method, and all shoots that do not grow in the direction of the trellis are subject to mandatory pruning.

Few people know, but red currants can be formed in the form standard tree. To do this, even in the first year of life, all basal shoots are cut off, leaving the central trunk.

For stability, it can be tied to a vertical support. In the future, it is necessary to cut off all shoots at a distance of 30 - 50 centimeters from ground level. The tops are pinched to provoke the growth of lateral branches.

Any of the proposed options has pros and cons, each gardener decides for himself which method will be optimal for his site.

Feeding and watering

Regular watering will ensure a stable crop of currants. For this you need to use well water. room temperature. For one bush - at least a bucket of water, the frequency of watering depends on the weather, but at least once every 10 - 12 days.

In the heat, you can water the bushes every other day, exclusively at the root, so as not to bring down the color and ovaries. Mulching the root area will help retain moisture longer and also provide additional top dressing.

The application of mineral fertilizers is carried out in three stages:

1. spring are used nitrogen fertilizers(ready-made complexes or organics). This stimulates the growth of shoots and leaves. Dosage calculation: 50 g of urea per 10 liters of water. In the case of using ammonium nitrate, the dosage is reduced to 30 g / 10 l of water.
2. Before flowering phosphorus and potash fertilizers are used so that the fruits are better tied. For one adult currant bush, 50 g of potassium and 80 g of superphosphate are used. Can be used wood ash at the rate of one glass diluted in a bucket of water.
3. After the main crop is harvested, it is necessary to feed the plant with diluted manure or chicken droppings. The infusion must be prepared in advance. To do this, dissolve 2 - 2.5 kg in a bucket of water. cow dung or 1 kg chicken manure. The resulting mixture is left in a warm place for fermentation. After a week, the fertilizer is ready, but in order not to burn the roots, it must be diluted at the rate of 0.5 liters per bucket of water.

During the season, you can use folk remedies for plant nutrition, as well as regularly update the mulch under the roots of the currant. It is not recommended to fertilize in the fall, so as not to provoke the growth of shoots.

In addition, it is worth noting that the first feeding is carried out only in the second year after planting. Until this time, the plant is quite satisfied with the minerals introduced during planting.

Major diseases and pests

Many insects are not averse to feasting on juicy leaves and vitamin berries. The main redcurrant pests are frequent uninvited guests in any garden plot, therefore experienced gardeners know how to deal with them.

The main diseases of red currant:

Anthracnose

A fungal disease that appears with an unfavorable, too raw and cold weather. Outwardly, it looks like small brown spots, which increase in size over time and cover most of the leaves.

To combat this disease, fungicides are used, preventive spraying with Bordeaux liquid or copper sulphate has proven itself well. These drugs are also suitable for treatment, it is only necessary to increase the frequency of treatment (every week instead of ten days).

powdery mildew

A thin white "cobweb" appears, which gradually entangles the entire bush and fruits. Spraying with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate will save you from this scourge. The soil under the bush can also be cultivated using the special Nitrofen preparation.

goblet rust

Yellow-orange convex spots appear, which quickly spread along the leaves and stem, affecting flowers and fruits. Effective methods of treatment have not been developed, and spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used for prevention.

striped mosaic

In the direction of the veins on the leaf of the plant, there are duplicate stripes of orange or brown. If detected in the early stages, removing the affected leaves and spraying with fungicides will help. Otherwise, it is necessary to uproot the entire bush, and disinfect the landing site.

It is believed that red currant is less susceptible to diseases than its black variety. At the same time, with thickened plantings, cases of infection of the bushes with white spotting (septoria), terry (reversion) and bacteriosis are not uncommon.

When growing red currants, difficulties can arise not only for beginners in the country business. Often, bushes are affected by root rot or aphid attacks, even with quality care. To prevent the spread of infection and protect the plant from serious damage, it is necessary to respond in a timely manner to the following alarming "symptoms".

What problems can you face:

1. Aphid defeat. Characteristic signs are developmental delay, wilting and wrinkling of leaves. Red bumps form on the surface of the leaf. Aphid colonies are usually found on the underside of leaves.
2. Ognevka. This pest leaves characteristic traces of its stay - a thin cobweb that entangles shoots and fruits. You can also see small caterpillars that destroy the green parts of the plant.
3. Yellow sawfly. It lays larvae, which systematically eat leaves and young shoots of currant.
4. Spider mite. Shrinking and withering leaves, as well as sticky cobwebs on the stems - feature presence of this pest.
5. Kidney tick. It tolerates a dangerous disease - mohrovost, which is considered incurable - the entire bush is removed at once. Anomalies in the development of the plant are considered signs of damage: the shape of the leaf changes, there are no color and ovaries.
6. Moth. A voracious caterpillar that completely eats the leaves of berry crops.
7. Zlatka. The larvae of this pest prefer to eat the juicy pulp of the shoots.

The fight against these pests can be carried out with special preparations (Karbofos, Fury, Fufanon, Actellik, Aktara, Bankol, Konfidor Tanrek, Confidant, Commander, Biotlin, etc.) and folk remedies(spraying with soapy or garlic solution, sprinkling with ash). Affected leaves must be removed from the bush and burned. With a strong lesion, it is more advisable to uproot the entire plant than to allow infection of the remaining bushes.

A popular garden crop - redcurrant, does not differ in a capricious character, but requires careful attention. In order to have a good harvest, it is necessary to ensure active watering, regular pruning and top dressing of the bushes. The main subtleties of caring for red currants are discussed in our information.