The most famous designers in China. Chinese jewelry design. Chinese style bedroom interior
From the moment when architecture ceased to be a state monopoly and the design of buildings and construction was partially at the mercy of private companies, a revolution began in the Celestial Empire modern architecture.
Major trade publications have already started talking about a new direction in architecture - Chinafusion. At the core original style lies the symbiosis of art and utility, clear lines, clear proportions and elements of Chinese modernity with Western avant-garde trends. To better illustrate this phenomenon, Trendymen.ru selected several iconic projects from leading private architectural firms and design bureaus in China.
DNA Design and Architecture
This is one of the leading companies not only in China, but also in Mongolia. Its reputation is impeccable, and at the head is a graduate of the Harvard School of Design Xu Tiantian, who has worked in the US and Holland. Since 2004, the DNA studio has built several original concepts based on the idea that the character of the building, its appearance, interior decoration and interiors should be based on the surrounding context, nature and even on the personality of the person for whom it is created. This is the “genome of the building”, which the architect is called upon to decipher.
AT this moment DNA experts are working on Beijing Songjuang Artists' Village, Xixi Leisure Center in Hangzhou National Park and museum in Qingchenshan.
EXH Design
A cross-cultural architecture and design studio founded in Shanghai by Erich Diserens and Xi Zhang, natives of the Swiss bureau Herzog + de Meuron. The duet in their work implements the concept of a design-oriented office, when the architect is responsible not only for the external appearance of the building, but also for the interiors. This allows you to achieve an incredible integrity of the concept, uniform style and accuracy of implementation.
One of the most ambitious projects EXH Design studios — Swiss Embassy Visa Application Center in Pekin, Swiss office and hotel in the city of Ordos (Ordos 100), inspired by traditional Mongolian yurts.
One Design Inc.
"Modern architecture should encourage reflection and contemplation, and not dictate the canons of style", is the imho of the creator of the One Design studio, Bing Bu, and the motto of his company, which has been building concise buildings without using Eastern culture stamps since 2003. Bina Boo's special pride is Wulongtan Resort Hotel in Ningbo and current project business center in the ancient Shanghai district of Zhujiajiao.
Vector Architects
The company, which is only a year old, has already managed to declare itself as a supporter of "green" technologies and ecological architecture. The flagship project of the creative duo Hongyu Zhang and Gong Dong - Exhibition Center environmental life support technology in Beijing immediately attracted the attention of critics and the press with its original grass walls. Architecture for them is an equation, each variable of which is culture, tradition and comfort. To solve such an equation means to find harmony between these components.
Vector Architects is currently working on a project elementary school Huaxu in Tianjin.
Atelier Zhang Lei
Zhang Lei, a graduate of the Chinese Southeast University and a student of the Swiss ETN school, is convinced that modern architecture must solve purely pragmatic problems, and the simpler these solutions, the better. She has been faithful to this principle since 2000 and over 9 years of work she was able to prove that with a competent approach it gives brilliant results.
The brightest works of Atelier Zhang Lei studio are fourth building of jiangnan machinery company in the city of Liyang, clubhouse project in Hangzhou National Park, "brick house" in Nanjing, art gallery FLJ and others.
“A good project is a subtle blend of historical sensibility, futuristic innovation and formal ingenuity,” says Kuu founder Satoko Sakei, who has studied architecture for many years in Tokyo, Philadelphia, Barcelona, Singapore and Shanghai. The result of the training is an incredibly subtle, eclectic style, fantastic erudition and an enviable sense of beauty. All this Satoko Sake brilliantly applies in his work on SPA center in Shanghai, own office and private villa in Fuzhou.
Studio Twist
Lip Chong and Annie Chung studied together in London and founded Twist Studios in Shanghai because they share the same vision for a practical approach to design and modern architecture. Today this duet is one of the most famous in Chinese architecture. On his account showroom shanghai design center, photo studio project and A-POD project interiors, the location of which is still kept secret.
In+O Architecture
Since its founding in 2003, Wang Lee's studio, a respected architect and editor-in-chief of World Architecture Magazine, has remained true to its principle of drawing inspiration from folk crafts and looking for the "golden ratio" of combining the spirit of the times and authentic culture. This idea is most clearly embodied in Tiantai Museum in Zhejiang, as well as in the current projects of the studio - Sichuan Gallery Chinart, some objects Songjuang Artists' Village, mall in Tianjin and Hongmao Fuchun Private Villa.
Europeans began to "rave" about China after the travels of Marco Polo. Even then, during the Middle Ages, interior traditions existed in the Celestial Empire. The house for the Chinese was not just a roof over his head and a set necessary items, but a material reflection of his attitude to the world and life ...
History: from rococo to avant-garde
A keen interest in Chinese life swept Europe at the end of the 17th century, when the satiated nobility discovered porcelain brought by the first merchants. The thinnest dishes were not only unusual in appearance, but also hygienic, because a porcelain cup, unlike a silver one, was enough to rinse.
Passion for porcelain led to a passion for everything that reminded of a distant, alluring country. So there was chinoiserie - Chinese.
Aristocrats ordered architects to design gazebos in the form of pagodas, and the chambers were decorated with silk screens, fans and vases.
However, very little was known about China in those years, so the style was superficial - with a considerable touch of fantasy.
The second wave of fashion for the Chinese interior covered Europe at the beginning of the 20th century and ... is still holding on. The culture of the Celestial Empire has become more open, now, furnishing a house in the Chinese style, its owner is not limited to decor, but follows the rules of Feng Shui, honors Chinese customs. Thus, he brings to the home not only an exotic flavor, but also a microclimate.
Conceptual features of the Chinese style in the interior
Simplicity and expressiveness are the first things associated with Chinese housing. 
It has:
- bulky, low furniture;
- the use of intarsia - wooden inlay that decorates surfaces
- dressers and wardrobes;
- the presence of sliding screens-partitions
- thoughtfulness and restraint in the choice of accessories.
Adhering to these criteria, it is not difficult to create a Chinese abode in any corner of the planet.
Finish: wood dominance
Which includes Chinese, "do not like" cutting-edge materials and technologies.
The walls of the Chinese-style apartment are covered with either bamboo or fabric trellises.
Paper wallpapers, once invented in China, are not prohibited; painting on plaster is also possible: flowering branches, mountain landscapes, outlandish birds. 
Each of the drawings is a symbol that attracts a certain energy to the house, so the patterns should be taken seriously.
If the room is small, it is appropriate to cover one of the walls with dark-colored wooden panels, this will visually enlarge the room, give it a sharpness, picturesqueness.
On the floors, if the option with bamboo parquet, alas, is out of reach, they will do as large tiles, and wood with a rich texture.
The hardest part of decorating Chinese house Perhaps the ceilings. They are usually multi-level, which creates the illusion of heaven above your head. For this, rectangular, carved wooden structures are used, which are equipped with lighting and contrast with the walls.
Colour: bright and bold
The Chinese believe that the color red brings good luck. Rarely does a house do without fragments of cinnabar shade: it can be a wall, upholstery, carpet on the floor. And the most popular color triad is a combination of red, black and gold.
The main tone, and in a modern Chinese dwelling it can be not only red, but brown, burgundy, even green, is often diluted with yellow accents. 
Sunny color in the Middle Kingdom symbolizes nobility and was widely used in the design of palaces.
Style furniture
Of course it's made of wood. In priority:
▫ Manchurian walnut;
▫ oak;
▫ sandalwood;
▫ mahogany;
▫ bamboo;
▫ rattan.
You can often see objects made of plywood covered with scarlet paint, painted with hieroglyphs and typical ornaments.
Chinese furniture looks unmassive and lower than European. Squat - feature cabinets, racks, bookcases, sun loungers and armchairs.
In the rich living rooms, the furniture is mostly lacquered, with openwork plywood intarsia, with inserts of mother-of-pearl, tortoiseshell, noble wood. 
The furnishings of the Chinese-style apartment are the embodiment of dignity: all items are elegant, functional, but there are not many of them. A low sofa, a bamboo chair, a round or oval tea table sometimes make up the whole ensemble. main room.
Needless to say, the furniture of the Chinese house is carried out according to the principles of Feng Shui: some items are arranged in pairs, others are symmetrical.
Accessories: fabulous wealth
The Chinese-style interior is not overloaded with trinkets. However, their choice is huge. This is for example:
- vases, figurines, porcelain dishes;
- rugs, fans, bamboo napkins;
- figurines, dolls, ceramic cups;
- live chrysanthemums and peonies in vases, mini bonsai trees.
In addition to the rational, the screen also plays a decorative role: it can be painted with landscapes or decorated with a picture. 
A spectacular, final chord of the situation will be a pair of bronze bells, paper lanterns and incense sticks.
Decorating a room in Chinese style requires not only impeccable taste, but also knowledge. After all, every detail - a lotus flower or a dragon figurine - is full of secret meaning.
Lighting: natural and concise
In China, it is not customary to curtain windows. They are covered with sliding matte screens or gratings carved into a characteristic square. However, today you can use roller blinds or bamboo blinds to protect windows.
Lamps are also rarely equipped with caps and shades. However, it is not uncommon - a floor lamp under a lampshade made of thin rice paper. The center of the living room, bedroom, dining room is often decorated with a Chinese style chandelier.
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Chinese style bedroom interior
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Despite the fact that China is rapidly developing and becoming more modern, many continue to perceive it solely as a manufacturer of second-rate fakes. Once it was so, and little was produced in the Middle Kingdom own products preferring to work for foreign brands. But now the situation has changed, and China is gradually beginning to appear its own talented designers. Some of them really work in their own style and create something unique, others try to imitate European talents. Today we will talk about the most interesting of them.
Zuc Zug
This brand appeared in 2002, when there were too many bright and catchy things on sale. People were missing something simple, suitable for everyday wear. Therefore, the founder of the Zuc Zug brand, Wen Yiyang, decided to start producing clothes in soothing neutral shades that would appeal to ordinary people. In addition, all these things had to be liked by people of different ages, so that they would be equally comfortable for both a business woman and a teenage girl.
Author of this interesting project emphasizes that he creates his clothes for ordinary people, inviting them to participate in the shooting of his brand books and even in full-fledged shows. The designer sells his outfits in Shanghai and Hong Kong, as well as online. Customers have a positive attitude towards the brand and are happy to buy its products. The success of the designer is also noted in many well-known publications. For example, in the Chinese Wall Street Journal, he has already been named one of the most promising designers in the Middle Kingdom.
Qiu hao
The first attempts to launch the brand were made in 2001. In the beginning, Qiu Hao, chief fashion designer and creator trademark, decided to go into the production of clothes alone. And only a year later his friend joined him.
The Qiuhao brand turned out to be conceptual and very unusual. Having released three collections, only two colors were used. Contrasting black and white clothes stood out against the background of colorful outfits produced in China in large quantities. In addition, such a neutral palette made it possible to focus all attention on some details and an unusual cut. The decision of the creative fashion designer turned out to be very correct. The designer almost immediately got on the list of one of the most successful people Chinese fashion industry and received many awards for his creativity.
Vera Wang
The name of Vera Wang is known far beyond the borders of the country. It is about her that many Europeans and Americans remember in the first place when they are asked if they know any of the successful Chinese fashion designers. This lady is famous primarily as the author of luxurious wedding dresses. All of them are recognizable due to their simplicity and elegance.
At one time, the girl became a graduate of Central Saint Martins. After studying for several years in Britain, she nevertheless decided to return to the People's Republic of China, and it was there to open her brand. The brand was launched in 2008. It was immediately noticeable that the fashion designer studied in a European school. It was read by small details and general appearance outfits. True, at the same time, she always tried not to forget about her roots, organically combining Eastern and European traditions. In addition to exclusive wedding dresses, the designer also became famous for her casual outfits for girls and women, decorated with bright prints. In combination with simple silhouettes and a calm background, all this does not look catchy and cheap, and suits many ladies. Some of her work has even graced the covers of Chinese editions of Harper's Bazaar and Vogue at various times.
This designer with oriental origins is already being compared by some with Briton Jason Wu and American Phillip Lim. Like Vera Wang, he is a CSM graduate. On this, by the way, his similarity with her does not end there. In the collections of the young fashion designer, there are also many bright floral prints. In general, his outfits are very feminine and elegant. In addition to flowers, they are decorated with exquisite lace, which is very popular with customers.
The Chinese launched his brand almost immediately after returning to his homeland. He managed to get the support of sponsors and the public. Over time, outfits from his collections began to be sold even in England. This happened thanks to close cooperation with Topshop. A real success for him was participation in London Fashion Week.
Now the young designer has already completely moved to London. But at the same time, he does not forget about his roots. And it's not just that many of his things are made in oriental style; he buys materials for creating his outfits in the same China.
The last fashion designer on our list is today considered one of the youngest. Like most modern Chinese talents, he also began his work only after he received the appropriate education in Europe. Wen Haotian studied at once in two world-famous design schools - Maragnoni and Studio Bercot. Then Wen Haotian returned to China and set about creating the Haotian Wen brand. It happened in 2011, and already in 2012 the fashion designer presented his first collection, not even in China, but in Paris. That was very the right decision, because both European fashion houses and local buyers immediately drew attention to him, which opened the doors to the secular world for the fashion designer.
By the way, this is amazing. After all, usually this fashion designer does not appear in public. He does not like publicity, and in fact, does not need recognition or money. He continues to create only because of his love for art (at least that's what he said in one of his interviews).
Apartment design
Progress in all areas of people's lives in the 21st century has made us completely open to unique and new concepts in the design and decoration of our apartments. The Chinese style in the interior has rightfully won a huge number of fans among the population of the western part of the continent. Chinese design certainly justifies all admiration with its exotic and rich beauty. At first glance, there is a feeling that it can be simply reproduced, but in practice it becomes clear that not all designers have a clear understanding of the main principles of this style.
Chinese style interior design. Basics
Centuries ago, Chinese design was founded on the principles of nature, simplicity and energy. These postulates were designed to create a peaceful and serene atmosphere for the home. Since Chinese culture is steeped in tradition through and through, the elements in the Chinese style interior must reflect the essence of the people living in the house.
The most important rule Chinese interior is simplicity. Asian designers do not like it when the room is packed with various decorative elements. It is very important not to a large number of truly valuable accessories were placed in the room in the right way in order to achieve the desired effect.
One of the most common elements in the Chinese interior is partitions and screens . They can be both functional and decorative at the same time. Screens not only bring decor to life, but can also serve to create a sense of privacy.
Previously, such partitions were made of lightweight materials. Thin fabric or paper was stretched over a lattice frame. To date, partitions can be made from a variety of building materials – expensive tree decorated with intricate ivory or bamboo inlay.
The screen is usually foldable, so it can be placed almost anywhere in the apartment where it is most relevant to you. This is very cheap way add an Asian twist to your simple yet stylish Chinese style interior.
Chinese style interior. Finishing
Almost any Ethnos style is characterized by the use of natural materials for finishing window and doorways walls, floors.
Walls in Chinese interiors are usually paneled with reddish wood. Individual walls can be pasted over with, sheathed with bamboo cloth or painted with light warm paint.
Another common method is pasting wall structures with paper wallpaper with a pattern in some way related to the culture of China (by the way, you can read our article - how to choose). Walls can also be brought to life with decorative patterns. wooden gratings, and the ceiling - .
A large stone or is laid on the floor, as well as parquet board. For playback ethnic interior the main hall, nursery and bedroom, you can purchase a massive board as a more environmentally friendly, pleasant and warm material. massive board in this case, it spreads in a deck way. It is better to take a dark board, rich color, with a reddish tint.
Well suited for Asian design flooring in the form of bamboo parquet. Adherents of rolled floor coverings should take a closer look at the mat type carpet.
Chinese color in the interior. Color
Generally, chinese style interior design conducive to the use of bold colors. Red color is one of the most beloved in the Chinese state. It is believed that it can bring good luck. So do not be afraid to lay a bright red carpet on the floor. Golden, yellow, blue can be used as accent colors. But if you don't like red at all, nothing bad will happen if you remove it from your project altogether.
Instead of red, you can use a brown background, combined with beige, cream or milky white colors. Such color spectrum more characteristic of a modern Chinese interior. In this version, make sure that all the remaining elements do not contradict the basic rules - the room should not be crammed with furniture, it must not contradict Asian traditions, in other words, look expensive and simple at the same time.
In an interior made chinese style, wooden polished furniture will be very appropriate. For furniture, preference should be given to dark woods.
Part of the furniture can be painted red. In addition to painting, antique chests of drawers can also be decorated with images of flowers, hieroglyphs, bamboo. Bamboo furniture will look perfect, and besides, not high coffee tables, miniature sofas, TV stands, chests can replace bedside tables.
Chinese style. Accessories and decor
The easiest way to make the necessary environment is with the help of porcelain, and besides this, bamboo products, figurines or, partitions and screens. Glass partitions quite stylish look in the interior. For example, it can be a pattern made in the form of an oriental hieroglyph on colored glass. In principle, the image of hieroglyphs is a very popular detail in the interior in the Chinese style. More often they use hieroglyphs meaning well-being and happiness, health, money.
Chinese style can be the main motive for the interior, or maybe just an accent. To easily add a Chinese accent to the design of the room, you can use a screen made in Asian style, install Chinese porcelain vases on the floor, and place several oriental paper fans on the walls.
The Chinese style in such accessories is expressed quite easily - with the help of images from Asian culture. The most common mythological character, which is present in almost every decor based on oriental motifs, is the dragon. The Chinese dragon is a beautiful wise creature with a rather long body, usually black or red. You can add an image of such a mythological character to your interior, and he can pleasantly enliven the room. The main thing here is not to overdo it with the number of accessories, otherwise your apartment will look like an antique store, not a Chinese home.
All the complexity Chinese style interior design is to moderately distribute the elements and not overdo it with accessories. This is a real art, and here the impeccable taste of the designer is required. But then, when you can achieve the necessary harmony, you will be rewarded in the form of admiring reviews from your guests.
Many of our jewelers are interested in what kind of jewelry the Chinese and Chinese women wear. No, not what is produced for export by their numerous factories for residents of Europe and both Americas. Not what Tiffany and Cardin sell to the Chinese in their boutiques in the Forbidden City. And what every ordinary Chinese would admire and wish to have.
Searching on the Internet turned up little. The English-speaking Chinese network is filled with offers for the average European. I don't understand hieroglyphs.
The Chairman of the Guild of Russian Jewelers, Mr. Radashevich, told us at the seminar that with the entry into the WTO, the Chinese almost destroyed the entire jewelry industry in Italy. They arrived, bought a lot of various products, and the Italians were already rubbing their hands in anticipation of further profits from the next purchase, but no such luck! In a short time, they flooded all of Italy with their copies at a very low prices. And there is no legislation on copy protection of jewelry design in Italy.
Questions to a native Chinese, an economist by occupation, also clarified little. He provided me with brisk figures for the growth of the Chinese jewelry industry, but he had nothing to say about design.
Still, something was found out. The Chinese prefer pure gold in jewelry. Without any stones, in the slang of jewelers - "stoneless". Colored stones are almost never used. The most revered stone in China is jade. (By the way, the male dignity in Chinese poetry is usually called a jade rod.) If any competition is held in China, then a jade medal is awarded for first place, a gold medal for second, and a silver medal for third.
Recently, the domestic market of the Chinese jewelry industry has been growing at an unprecedented rate. This is facilitated by the overall growth of the Chinese economy, and with it the increase in consumer demand among the people of China. Jewelery sales in China are now the third largest in terms of value, after purchases of cars and real estate. Recent sales in Tucson confirm this trend. Those sellers who work with Chinese dealers received the greatest profit.
The preferences and tastes of the Chinese consumer regarding the design of jewelry have also changed. The openness of China, its desire to master all the world's achievements have also affected jewelry design. In design, Chinese jewelers managed to bring in the trends of world jewelry fashion without departing from centuries-old traditions.
Some photos from the Beijing Fashion Festival
Chinese soul and modern jewelry design
In this replica, the Qing Dynasty hairpins, outlines of flowers, leaves, and other details were created with very fine gold threads using filigree technique. Framed kingfisher feathers provide bright Blue colour. Unlike dyes, feathers provide natural color and shadows, as well as biological structure. Ruby cabochons are set as center stones.
The most well-known material in Chinese jewelry art to Western people is jade. It has been used in China since 5000. BC. But in the West, the material that has been used in China also for many millennia is completely unknown. These are kingfisher feathers. The kingfisher bird is highly valued by the Chinese for its colors and has been celebrated in Chinese poetry and songs since ancient times. The rich blue color of kingfisher feathers has been a very valuable and extremely sought-after material for inlay in arts and crafts for centuries. The kingfisher's feather meant the extremely high status of the owner of such a thing, the designation of his wealth and power. Today, such use is prohibited, because due to the intensive hunting of this tiny bird, especially during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the bird almost disappeared in Asia. The method, called tian cui, which means "spread the kingfisher," consists of gluing the kingfisher's feathers onto gilded copper, bronze, or silver. The technique disappeared during the Chinese Revolution in the 1940s
The skill of Chinese jewelers has been polished for 5 millennia and constantly improved using more and more new techniques. From hair ornaments (simply: hairpins and barrettes) to exquisite earrings and magnificent crowns, it was all made for members of the ruling class and for ordinary people.
After the Cultural Revolution in China (1966-1976), significant socio-economic upheavals followed, destroying almost every aspect of national growth. During this period, jewelry was considered a relic of capitalism, and it was something of a shame to wear it. Designers and craftsmen, in order to avoid persecution, were forced to simply stop their work.
In the last decades of the 20th century, a sharp rise in Chinese jewelry production began. By the end of the 1990s, there were already about 20,000 jewelry businesses and about three million people involved in the jewelry trade (Hsu et al., 2014). The jewelry market of the country is saturated with the simplest products, and many of them are of very low quality (J J. Bai, pers. comm., 2013).
This lack of innovation has created a sense of stagnation that has brought in some industries pioneers - people who could find a new approach. Professional and advanced jewelry design programs have been offered since the early 1990s. Over the past 10 years, many leading universities and art academies have established their own jewelry design and manufacturing departments to serve an ever-expanding market. Leading ones: Tsinghua University, China Geological University and Chinese Central Academy of Fine Arts. Numerous jewelry competitions have been organized to promote the development of young talents. Many companies invited designers from Hong Kong and abroad to share their skills in China and train local craftsmen. At the same time, Chinese artists began to flock abroad to the UK, USA, Italy, Germany to study Western jewelry production.
This ring from the "Jade That She Wants" collection (I won't translate) was designed by Hong Kong firm Grace Lee, chief designer is Zhaoyi Jade House. Crafted in 18k white gold, the ring features a clear jade cabochon in the center, rimmed with fancy sapphires to create a gorgeous color accent.
There is a widespread belief among Chinese consumers that national jewelry design should reflect and capture the "Chinese soul". This concept reflects their national culture, "collective mind programming", their distinctive national traits (Hofstede and Bond, 1988). (Actually, this is true for any nation - my note. But this is a special conversation.) Or rather, what is genetically transmitted in the form of a cultural heritage can be improved only on native soil. For thousands of years, the basic values of Chinese culture have not fundamentally changed. The process begins at birth and continues throughout a person's life. All this is deeply rooted in Chinese national culture, including: in national traditions, philosophy, religion and those materials that they prefer to wear as jewelry. This understanding allows a new wave of Chinese designers to easily and naturally incorporate traditional elements into jewelry for domestic audiences and accurately interpret their purpose. The spiritual message that a piece of jewelry carries can be expressed by combining some purely Chinese design elements, but this is not always the case. It's just that purely Chinese elements are not enough for "designers to follow the Chinese way."
This locket ring fragrance is designed by Dickson Yewn. Ancient Chinese scholars and elites often carried small medallions filled with fragrant substances to freshen the air or repel flying insects. The ring symbolizes the virtue of the wearer, which, in turn, can affect its social significance. Although flowers and medallions are not considered traditional symbols of Chinese culture, this ring should be seen as a reminder of its important features.
In 2010, China overtook Japan to become the second largest economy in the world after the US. China is also currently the second largest jewelry market and is projected to become the largest in 2020 (“Chinese jewelry firms…,” 2014). To meet the rapidly growing demand for luxury goods, the Chinese began to develop their own innovative jewelry designs.
Chinese design elements
One of latest trends Chinese jewelry - incorporating traditional Chinese elements such as dragons, phoenix, bamboo, etc. Many of the prized pieces in international jewelry design and stone cutting competitions bear the features of this trend (Chen, 2014). At the same time, some Western designers began to use traditional chinese characters, but sometimes they are applied or combined incorrectly, which makes them less significant. According to Hong Kong jewelry designer Dickson Yewn, "Jewelry is new way interpret a culture that has been repressed for decades." He believes that China is a fundamental resource for jewelry design and that after a long social upheaval, it is time to bring it back to its former glory.
Trained as an artist, Yewn has always been interested in Chinese history and Chinese culture. Long years he has lived in the West and has a deep appreciation for its culture, but prefers to create jewelry that has a distinctly Chinese style without mixing different cultures in design (World Gold Council, 2014). He is also engaged in the revival of the traditions of Chinese jewelry craftsmanship.
Hong Kong designer Dickson Yewn, inspired by the creation of jewelry in the Chinese tradition.
While many designers focus on creating new concepts, Yewn digs deep into national traditions and transforms them into modern luxury items. His usual motifs include latticework, paper cut, Manchu motifs, and peonies, China's national flower. Here is one of the products of the "Lock of Good Wishes" collection, which is based on such traditions. The earliest known castle in China was found in a tomb dating back to 3000 BC. The basic function of the lock has not changed, but the style, materials and craftsmanship have continued to evolve, and now it is more than just a locking device, it is already a significant decorative element. As a symbol of security, the castle also represents good health and longevity in Chinese culture. Newborns are given a precious metal pendant in the form of a padlock to "lock" health and happiness for the rest of their lives. This type of pendant is still one of the most popular jewelry gifts for babies in China.
Diamond and emerald bracelet by Dickson Yewn's from the "Castle of Good Wishes" collection. At the four corners, the panels of the castle are decorated with simplified images of bats, which symbolize good luck and happiness in Chinese culture. The clasp is a refreshing design of a common gate lock in ancient China. The concept is typically used in children's jewelry to make the wearer feel blessed throughout life, but Yewn has successfully applied it to adult jewelry as well.
His ring of diamonds and jade from the Wish Fulfillment collection bears the features of a traditional window grille. Through such a lattice, in ancient times, they usually looked at Chinese gardens, its graceful pattern encourages the beholder to look through it and enjoy the beautiful scenery. Such lattices originate from the southern part of China - the progenitor of the famous Suzhou Classical Gardens. These private gardens are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and date back between the 11th and 19th centuries. Such lattice windows are one of the most important elements of the garden, framing everything visible with a mysterious veil (Figure 6). Yewn borrowed this concept of the ring from there, from the Chinese landscape designers to create a link between the wearer's consciousness and the outside world.
Left and top right: First Lady Michelle Obama's Wish Collection ring, inspired by the exquisite trellises of ancient Chinese gardens. Lattice patterns diversify the inner and outer parts of the ring. Photo courtesy of Yewn. Bottom right: Window grille in the garden of a modest administrator of Suzhou Classical Gardens. The exquisite design and craftsmanship of this window lends elegance to everything that can be viewed through it. This ring became a favorite of First Lady Michelle Obama, wearing it in 2011 when President Obama hosted a banquet for Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip. The ring attracted the attention of many famous guests that evening (Adducci, 2011).
Traditional craftsmanship
China Long story use of gold and silver in jewelry design and gold still dominates the domestic jewelry market. Imperial artisans were once able to spend considerable time on decoration commissioned by the emperor. Today, very few people can afford to spend so much time on traditional crafts. However, the growth of mainland China's luxury market is driven by the promotion of classical crafting techniques.
This is a replica of a Qing Dynasty hairpin recovered from a tomb in Beijing. Two main pearls embedded in a pattern of two layers of gold threads are called ruyi in Chinese and symbolize the fulfillment of desires.
One of them is the art of filigree. This combines two techniques: the first is filigree, using gold or silver threads of varying weights; the second is decor, i.e. work that involves the setting of stones and the carving or filing of a setting of precious metals around the stone. The artist who is responsible for the revival of this technique is Master Jingui Bai
Master Jingui Bai is the official Heir of the art of filigree inlay in China. She works in her studio, creating haute couture jewelry for high-profile buyers.
Master Bai created many replicas of historical filigree art pieces. Today, she works full-time in her studio as Zhaoyi's chief filigree designer. Her jewelry is exclusively Chinese: from materials to themes and execution. Her "Royal Classic: Magnificent Cloud" filigree jewelry set won the "Best National Heritage Artwork" award at the 2nd National Jewelery Designers Excellence Competition in 2011.
This pair of earrings by Craftsman Bai won the "Best National Heritage Art" award. Thin golden threads were bent into separate curls. Then the master connected the curls so that the dormice formed the shape of an earring. Then faceted jade was installed in the earrings. This filigree technique is known as peeling. It gives a feeling of lightness and light.
Design Master Bai's philosophy is that each product must be successful in the market by itself. She believes that in order to achieve this goal, both the skill of the jeweler and the appropriate composition are important. The first filigree piece was designed and made by her for Zhaoyi. And suddenly it was acquired by a young couple. For years, China's younger generation, especially in the major cities, thought that high-purity gold jewelry was somewhat out of fashion. This opinion was formed largely due to the lack of creative design. Today, young consumers prefer innovative gold jewelry.
An excursion into Chinese philosophy
Chinese jewelry designers draw inspiration from a variety of sources. Chinese poems, fairy tales, paintings are filled with the philosophy of many generations. Yue Wan-Yo, a jewelry designer from Taiwan, has dedicated herself to traditional Chinese jewelry design using such themes. It combines traditional Chinese origins with modern design and modern production methods to create its own products, with its own history.
Taiwanese designer Yue Wan-Yo, pictured here, creates jewelry that expresses Chinese philosophy and tradition.
The beginning of jewelry making in China probably dates back to 1600 BC. Today, the younger generation has renewed interest in this ancient art. Wang started with patterned teapot covers, then developed her own product lines for consumer goods, including clothing and jewelry. Eventually, she realized that high art could go hand in hand with modern jewelry production methods, and 20 years ago she opened Wang Yue-Yo Creative Jewelry Design in Taipei. The flagship store opened in Beijing in 2007. Since then, her company has significantly expanded the number of its outlets. In 2012, Wang formed the Taiwan Creative Jewelry Design Association with the hope of encouraging designers to focus on artistry and the desire to spread Chinese culture to the rest of the world.
This Yue-Yo Wang necklace is crafted in 18k gold and features a knit collar with rose quartz as a pendant. Yue-Yo Wang's design and marketing style has taken her jewelery to the world of high fashion.
Wang's design combines traditional Chinese symbols with elements of Chinese knot art such as long tassels and patterned carvings. Among the stones she favors in her designs are opal, coral, jade, tourmaline, and chalcedony. These gems are time-honored favorites of the Chinese people. Wang believes that each stone has its own soul and she is inspired by it to find and express it through the jewels.
Jade is one of the most treasured stones in China. This Yue-Yo Wang ring uses jade to represent the dragon and 18K gold to represent the phoenix. In Chinese culture, the dragon and the phoenix symbolize male and female, respectively. The dragon and phoenix are depicted happily looking into the sky. The scene represents the prosperity of a nation or family.
Wang's design, with its balance and harmony of color and materials, reflects the concept set forth in Chinese philosophy around 500 B.C. and known as the Doctrine of the Average. Zhong symbolizes impartiality and Yun represents constancy. This classic text was included in one of the first books compiled by the students of Confucius and has since become a central tenet of Confucian philosophy. The intellectuals practice this philosophy in their daily lives, while the ruling class applies it to their management strategy. For generations, Confucian philosophy has become a staple of Chinese culture and remains so to this day. This is reflected in art: in the symmetry of patterns and motifs. The Chinese people also form their aesthetic standards on the basis of this philosophy. Chinese painting, calligraphy, and carving all reflect the standard that Wang's jewelry exemplifies.
Yue-Yo Wang used a combination of green jade and red coral for this necklace. gold fish in Chinese culture symbolizes good luck, while a pair of goldfish symbolize eternal marriage. The Chinese character between the two fishes is a traditional wedding symbol, and the boy on the lotus flower below it represents a wish for the prosperity of the family. An immediate sense of perfect symmetry characterizes many of Wang's designs.
Innovative Design Techniques
Shirley Zhang, one of China's leading designers, has been in the industry since the 1990s. She created her own patented methods for making jewelry using Western technologies. Zhang's small factory, Meiher Jewelry Styling Research, handles all stages of production from design to finished product. This allows Zhang to directly host all the development and testing of new technological processes.
Independent jewelery designer Shirley Zhang's creative philosophy is based on the belief that a piece should combine both craftsmanship and inspiration.
Her efforts were paid off when Zhang's masterpiece, Dancing on Flowers, won a special prize in the 2012 National Gems & Jewelry Technology Administrative Center jewelry design and manufacturing skills competition. The set, accented by a flower and a bee, includes a draped shoulder piece, a cuff bracelet and a pair of earrings. In Chinese culture, bees symbolize an essential feature of the national character - prudence. This competition has been a salute to the achievements of the Chinese stone-cutting and jewelry industry over the past 20 years. By using bees, Zhang wants to express the painstaking work of the industry. This product is characterized by a wide variety of gemstones and the use of various jewelry techniques. Of all this, the drapery at the shoulder looks the most impressive. It is equipped with a patented "dumbbell" link between the links, allowing the pieces to move freely and thus the drapery fits perfectly on the wearer's shoulder, giving the feel of silk rather than gold. The wearer can also change the volume of the item by detaching and reattaching pieces of it in various combinations for versatility.
Shirley Zhang's "Dancing on Flowers" prize jewelry set contains a total of 1,002 colored stones and 4,986 diamonds. Zhang applied several of her patented jewelry making techniques.
Another patented method used in this shoulder drapery is a special “honeycomb” setting of colored stones, which allows more light to pass through. Color and setting are equally attractive on both sides of the petals, solving an age-old challenge for jewelry design.
Zhang's experience working abroad opened her eyes to the Western jewelry industry and inspired her to apply some of their techniques. One example is her use of plique-à-jour (cloisonné). The method appeared in France and Italy at the beginning of the 14th century. This technique differs from standard enameling in that the clear enamel is directly bonded to a precious metal frame and reverse side does not have a metal backing, allowing light to pass freely through the glass. This creates a stunning effect of a miniature, colored glass window in the piece of jewelry. Cloisonne enamel is commonly used by Western jewelers in the manufacture of jewelry and pocket watches, including such world famous brands as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Tiffany. Zhang and her team have spent years researching and testing this method. Currently, her company is the only one in China that uses cloisonne in jewelry.
Watch cover made by Shirley Zhang in stained glass enamel technique.
Zhang's jewelry highlights the beautiful colors of the gemstones, striving for complete harmony. She also likes to combine color with different shapes or cultural objects and thus express her love for nature through design. Her style is to blend innovative craftsmanship with the principles of oriental aesthetics, using unique combinations of colors and materials.
Real jewelery and real joy
In 2011, in his book “ Luxurious Design: My Jewelery Design Journey" Gene Ren shares the words he lives by: "If you want a beautiful designer ring, come see me." He believes that if the entire luxury market is an ivory tower, then jewelry made of natural stones is the top of this tower, and the design is its structure and soul. According to Ren, the ring is one of the most common pieces of jewelry, but also the hardest to design. He considers his work in ring design to be the biggest achievement of his career. Ren is one of the most famous jewelry designers in China, he is also the founder of the school of gemology at the China Geological University in Beijing and the author of the first Chinese textbook on jewelry design.
Jin Ren is professor of jewelry design at the Chinese Geographic University in Beijing.
With a PhD in Geology, Ren never expected to one day appear in Paris for a couture show alongside world-class fashion designer Laurence Xu. When asked about his design background, Wren admitted that he hardly had any. His career as a designer began purely by chance, with the boom in the Chinese jewelry industry in the 1990s. At that time he was only a professor of the country's Gemological Program. The turning point came in 1993 when a magazine asked him to write about fashion trends in jewelry. His reputation grew from there and eventually provided the basis for his own brand, RJ (Ren, 2011).
Along with his name, the RJ brand stands for "Real Jewelry and Real Joy". He believes that jewelry design is a matter of managing form, size, color and dynamics, combined with a strong emphasis on culture (Ren, 2011). His designs combine traditional and modern concepts covering mechanical methods design, and often reflect a storyline that connects one part to another.
This set of colorless, yellow and black diamonds was inspired by snake skin and the ability of snakes to change skin. Earrings (left) depict the beginning of the process, when a new one is shown from under the old skin of the snake. The ring (center and right) represents the climax when the beautiful new skin is fully revealed. Jin Ren believes that this is a metaphor for a person who must experience periodic transformations.
Ren and his friend Laurence Xu (I couldn’t find anything on the net about this person, despite the worldwide fame. I can’t even tell if this is a man or a woman. - Note mine) often get together to discuss fashion trends and design ideas. Since they have common interests, Xu asked Ren to be the designer jewelry for her collection at Paris Haute Couture in 2013. Xu's majestic robes and Ren's matching jewelry sets reflect their shared identity and tradition.
In this set, the earrings and bracelet, as well as the dress, are inspired by the plumage of a peacock. Carefully selected tourmaline, sapphire, topaz, tsavorite and diamonds set in an 18K white gold base represent peacock feathers. Jin Ren has developed a design that allows each feather to move freely. The 3-carat diamonds are hidden under the feathers of the bracelet and can be removed and worn separately.
Ren says that the themes of his designs often come to him on walks with family and friends, where he is inspired by people, architecture, cinema and ancient tales (Ren, 2011). His Journey to the West set is based on a fairy tale considered one of the four great masterpieces of Chinese literature. The baroque pearl features four main characters on their expedition to the West, including the famous Monkey King. Their adventures are treasured childhood memories of almost every Chinese.
Left: antique miniature. Right: Jin Ren's 2014 Journey to the West collection, based on the Chinese fairy tale of the same name. The baroque pearl depicts the captain and his three disciples, capturing their main qualities (clockwise from top left): Master Tang Sanzang's benevolence, Monkey King's courage, Sha Wujing's honesty, and Zhu Bajie's greed.
Revival of the gold-jade culture
Jade inlays in gold jewelry have a long history in Chinese culture, where gold represents magnificence and jade symbolizes elegance. The Chinese use the relationship of gold and jade as a symbol of a happy marriage. For political and economic reasons, the market for this type of jewelry has been very limited for many years ("The Revival of the Gold-Jade Culture...", 2014). After the release of the 2008 Olympic medals with jade inserts, the market felt an opportunity to revive what is known as the gold-jade culture.
Shanghai-based jewelry designer Kaka Zhang's interests and talents span art, science and business. Using jade in her designs, she develops high quality, mid-range and mass-market items to satisfy every customer. When she was three years old, her father taught her painting. Her highly regarded school and university studies included science and technology as well as gemology, leading her to a career in jewelry design and e-commerce.
Shanghai-based jewelry designer Kaka Zhang is dedicated to reviving the gold-jade culture
Ninety percent of Zhang's business is online, where she has a large loyal and enthusiastic following. She works from home, in her design studio and on the website. Her jewelry is made in Shenzhen, where skilled craftsmen turn her designs into finished pieces.
When Kaka Zhang bought her first piece of jade as a teenager, she never expected to become a full-fledged jewelry designer. Along with excellent imperial jade, Zhang uses colorless transparent jade, which has gained high popularity among young women in the past few years.
The hairpin was one of the most important personal adornments for women. ancient China, and the butterfly is a traditional symbol of fidelity in love. Butterfly wings can be easily detached and worn as a pendant.
Most of Kaka Zhang's designs come from nature and are also inspired by the main theme of traditional Chinese painting. She uses a variety of colors and patterns and often uses jade carvings. If its shape reminds her of something she has seen or heard in an old saying, poem, painting, or on stage, she translates that theme into her design.
This small carved jade reminded Kaka Zhang of a fish. She attached a fishing rod and wave foam around it and named the product "Lucky Fishing". One Chinese proverb describes the famous intellectual fishing: without bait and above the water with a hook. Instead of influencing some things, a true intellectual "goes with the flow." Many Chinese believe that this is the highest spiritual state. The ring is called "Beautiful Opera Singer". It looks like an intricate metalwork, reminiscent of the style of hats once worn by Peking Opera singers. The jade cabochon symbolizes the beauty of the face and the purity of their hearts.
Jade is most commonly used in carving, and its beauty can best be revealed and displayed through the skill of the carver. The designer must consider the carving and imagine the form and theme it will appear in the product. The stone cannot be changed, but the composition can be enhanced by the masterful use of precious metals and other elements in order to best express the theme in the designer's inimitable style.
Zhang believes that to be successful, she must educate her clients in jewelry design, materials, and workmanship. She dreams of creating a personal jewelry club where she can communicate with each client in a relaxed atmosphere.
Future
Over the past decade, Chinese jewelry designers have made great strides, which has consequently led to rapid growth domestic jewelry market. Many of them are now well known internationally as well. Because Chinese designers will continue to win recognition, more of their professionals will define the future in design.
Chinese jewelry has a long history, although it was once limited to the demands of royalty and the upper social classes. The high-end jewelry design market has seen more progress in the last decade than other manufacturing sectors. Now all top brands, as well as some independent designers and small shops, offer high-quality services for individual design for each customer. Designers are now increasingly focusing on working in the core sector of the commercial jewelry market. Applying the best of the methods of the Western world, they retain much of their own respected traditions. Leading jewelry businesses are improving commercial jewelry designs and we hope this will lead to even more innovation in the near future. In 2013-2014, Rio Tinto launched a series of commercial diamond jewelry in China: Argyle (pattern made of diamonds different colors on a plain background). Instead of just selling diamonds, Rio Tinto through numerous mass media launched a campaign to promote its designers creating commercial jewelry lines. Most of them were young Chinese designers.
Chinese designers, especially big brands, are also having a global impact on the high-end jewelry market. Two recent examples: the purchase of Chow Tai Fook Jewelery by the American diamond company Group U.S. diamond company , Hearts on Fire and French luxury retailer Kering bought by Chinese jewelry house Qeelin. Even though Western brands tend to dominate the market, Chinese brands have established themselves internationally through original design, cultural significance, and high craftsmanship. The influence of the "Chinese soul" goes both ways.