Get an answer from a specialist

Dmitry Sekunov

Is it worth dipping the roots garden plants when landing in a clay mash?

When planting garden plants, it is recommended to dip the roots in a mash of clay with manure for better survival. I remember that my grandparents, when planting plants in the garden, dipped the roots in a mixture of manure and clay. They said that they would get along better this way. And I doubt whether it is worth doing or is it a relic of the past?

Answers to the question

Natalia Belova gardening specialist

This is a strange tradition that came from the past. Previously, when transporting seedlings from nurseries over long distances on horseback, it was necessary long time make sure that the roots do not dry out. Therefore, they were dipped into a mixture of manure and clay, then wrapped in sackcloth and wet canvas. Before planting, the roots were immersed in water for 3 hours so that the clay was washed off and the roots were saturated with water. Clay tends to envelop small rhizomes and does not allow moisture loss, but prevents it from being saturated with water - this helps in cases of transportation, but worsens the situation when planting. It is more effective before planting to lower the rhizomes for a couple of hours in water, adding Heteroauxin or Kornevin (root formers).

05/15/2016 at 10:42

Ilya Krukov

Clay talker is an excellent method for storing seedlings, for example, when you do not have the opportunity to plant for several days, this affects survival, but for the worse, so you should not dip before planting. This procedure is also called root cementing. If you have already bought seedlings with roots soaked in clay, or cemented them for storage, soak them in water, with root formers that Natalya advised, they will just help to take root.

05/15/2016 at 14:52

Hello dear gardener!

Before starting this post, I want to congratulate all summer residents on May Day and wish good weather, fruitful work in the country and, of course, SUCCESS in this summer season!!!

So let's go...

Last spring, 2016, I found huge damage to the bark on apple trees from the application of "garden pitch" in the 2015 season. Well, to heal these injuries, I used "clay talker" that spring.

By the way, I have posts in this blog about this filthy tool, like "garden pitch", which is made exactly from waste oil products.

I say it not just from the bay, but I have irrefutable reliable evidence of how this "garden pitch" destroys not only the bark on the trees, but also rootstock stumps with cuttings grafted onto them.

Find posts about the destructive effect of "garden pitch" is simple - in the search line of the blog (not the browser, but this particular blog), write a question, for example, either healing wounds with garden pitch, or vaccinations and garden pitch ... or something like that.

Shortly speaking, where I used "garden var" both on grafts and on cuts after pruning, one misfortune turned out - the grafts completely died, and the bark (on the cuts) died off on large area from the place of application of this "oil product".

So please, do not even think about buying this putty in the store, no matter how the sellers praise it, forget to even think about it. And if you have it, then throw it in the trash so as not to get problems with the death of the bark on large plots my fruit trees, as I did.

Okay, trouble trouble, and it is necessary to heal the wounds after the “war”, it is impossible to delay with this, otherwise the bark will die and die all over large areas of the tree and then the tree may die.

Now to the point...

Spring 2016 for rehealing large wounds on apple trees, I used "clay talker". I have been using this "talker" for more than one year and the results from its use are good, if not excellent.

In the autumn of the same year I didn’t manage to show the results from the action of the “talker” on the bark of apple trees, since on October 11 we already had the first frosts and wash the “talker” cold water so you can see the flow better new cortex, I was out of hand.

Shortly speaking, the smeared places of the bark with this "talker" wintered on apple trees. This year, in the month of March, I decided to rinse the talker with water and show you the real result.

No, it's over, in one season such extensive wounds will not be able to heal, but in three or four years, I think, these wounds will heal, and subsequently nothing will threaten the tree, in terms of death during wintering.

First part of pictures about one apple tree...

It's a triple wound on an apple tree. In 2015, "garden var" was applied only to the cut of two branches. And then, as I think, the "garden pitch" began to eat into the bark, the bark began to blacken, die and crack. The wood of the cuts itself also turned black.

Then I carefully to the maximum, he cut off the damaged bark with a sharp garden knife to a healthy part and smeared it with “clay talker”. And so that the clay does not crumble during the season or is not washed away by rains, I usually wrap these places with a cotton or linen strip of fabric.

But in order for this material, God forbid, I didn’t make constrictions of the bark, I also coat it with “talker” over the fabric. In this case (under the "talker") the tissue partially decomposes and can even tear with intensive growth of the cortex, and no constrictions occur on the young cortex.

Now pictures of another apple tree with the same damage from the "garden pitch". There are the same consequences here - blackening and cracking of the cut wood, and extensive dying off of the bark along the periphery from the place where the “var” was applied.

My next steps exactly the same as in the previous case - cutting off dead bark; coating with "clay talker"; wrapping the "talker" with an ordinary rag and coating this same rag with the same "talker".

Now the pictures for the spring of this 2017 ...

Here are pictures of the first apple tree with three damaged areas. As I said, this whole household with a "talker" wintered as it is. The fabric itself was already semi-decomposed, and when I began to unwind it, it was torn (separated) in tufts.

Then I gently washed off the "talker" from the bark and see for yourself what happened in the end ...

It's common kind of three damage...

And this is already separately. Lower part with new bark…

This is the middle part...

And this top part…

How do you like this result growth of new young bark from simple clay?

That's it, that everything is fine and even very. If we take into account the damage from the "garden var" that happened in the 2015 season, then count from them, and the trace caught a cold.

But the wound must continue to heal and this season I used the RanNet liquid product (I didn’t have clay at that time).

For the last season in 2016, this tool also showed good results for healing small wounds after pruning, so I decided to try it instead of "clay talker".

Apply with a regular brush which children use to paint with watercolors or gouache on paper, but ...

But just choose a brush with a soft natural pile, so that it is convenient to apply (smear) this product not only on flat areas the entire wound, but also “push” it into microscopic cracks.

Let's move on to another apple tree ...

Here is an overwintered wound with a chatterbox on another apple tree.

The photo below is after flushing the "talker". Look, in this particular case, even the cut wood has whitened a little, which means that the damage from the “garden pitch” has been completely eliminated.

I also smeared this wound means of "RanNet".

I have a couple more apple trees with the same extensive damage, I acted on them in exactly the same way as on these two apple trees.

About the results of wound healing I will try to show you from RanNet this autumn.

Now about the "clay talker" ...

The talker is getting ready” is simple. Ordinary red clay is taken, filled with water to hide the clay, and infused for 10-15 minutes. Everything.

However, once you still need to mix this mixture during these 10-15 minutes, so that large lumps of clay, if any, are saturated with moisture and softened.

"Clay talker" should turn out in the form of sour cream. So it is easier to apply it with your hands both on wounds and on a rag.

I make my "talker" in their EM elixir infusions. That is, instead of water, I fill clay with Elixir infusion.

The result is, that in the "talker" there are also beneficial microorganisms that disinfect the wound from the penetration of viruses and pathogenic fungi into both wood and bark.

Who has my materials on EM Elixir, by all means make a "talker" on Elixir! There will be a double benefit - both wound healing and protection against pathogenic fungi!

If anyone doesn't have my EM Elixir materials yet, and they are urgently needed, I can make an electronic version of these materials. And you can pay on my Sberbank card. Write to me at this email address - [email protected]

Who needs a CD with these materials and Gift seeds of tomatoes of four varieties, he can order it by cash on delivery (in Russia) on this page - http://elicsir.dacha7.ru/

For Overseas Buyers only 100% prepayment is provided (I don’t have overlays abroad), but this is not a reason to put off the purchase of these materials on the back burner.

This season will be the seventh year, how I myself use various infusions of the EM elixir to protect all types of plants in the country from diseases! The result is very good!

The first infusions of the Elixir I started making at the end of 2010, and have already thoroughly and deliberately begun to prepare infusions from the beginning of the 2011 season.

To this day, I use these infusions and for the preparation of "clay talker", and for protecting plants from pathogenic fungi and viruses in their summer cottage.

Here, perhaps for today and that's it.

Now you tell me Have you used "clay talker" to heal wounds on your fruit trees?

Once again Happy May Day!

Good weather to you and fruitful work for the whole summer season!

Sincerely,
Sergey Dyakov.

Before planting, seedlings are carefully inspected, diseased and damaged branches and roots are cut to healthy wood, broken, soaked or split roots should not be left. The remaining roots should be preserved, since the more roots a tree has, the longer and more branched they are, the better and faster it takes root and starts to grow after planting. All work with seedlings

Before planting, the root system of the seedling is dipped into a clay-dung mash (1 part of clay, 2 - mullein, 5-6 - water). Growth regulators (auxins) contained in manure promote the formation and growth of roots. You can prepare a simple soil talker: pour loose soil of the upper dark layer of soil into a small hole dug in the soil (40 x 40 x 30 cm) and dilute it with water to the consistency of thick sour cream. To stimulate the growth of the root system, hetero-auxin growth regulator is added to the soil mash. The liquid soil solution applied to the root system ensures good contact with the soil in the planting hole, which is very important for the plant. At the bottom of the planting pit, a mound of earth or compost mixed with fertilizers should be poured, the seedling should be placed on the mound and all the roots of the plant should be spread on it. It is more convenient to plant together: one person sets up a tree with north side stake, carefully spreads the roots along the mound, the other throws the earth: the top layer of soil, removed when digging the pit, onto the roots, starting from the edges of the pit and carefully compacting it with your foot (putting the heel against the wall of the pit, and the toe against the seedling). This must be done carefully so as not to cut off the roots of the plant. The soil that the roots fall asleep should not contain fertilizers, it can only be mixed with mature compost in a ratio of 3: 1. So that voids do not form between the roots, the seedling is shaken. When planting, it is held so that the root neck is 3-5 cm higher than the edges of the pit.

After planting a tree, a roller is poured on the border of the former pit to form a hole and water the plant (2-3 buckets of water for each tree, regardless of soil moisture and weather). After watering, the tree will settle along with the soil, and the root neck will remain at the level of the soil in the garden. The seedling is tied to the stake with soft twine or other material, the places of contact of the twine with the stem and branches are isolated by placing pieces of rubber to prevent ingrowth into the bark. The next day after planting, the ravines fall asleep and trunk circle, mulch with poorly decomposed bedding manure, damp immature compost or humus (up to

10 cm). In dry weather, seedlings are watered every 10-15 days.

Rules for planting seedlings

Buy seedlings only in specialized farms.

Do not allow the roots of the seedling to dry out, put the plant in a container with water for 1-2 days before planting.

Cut off broken branches.

Cut off damaged roots to healthy tissue.

Before planting, stimulate the roots by dipping them in a clay-dung mash or soil mash with a growth stimulator.

Distribute the roots evenly in the planting hole, preventing them from breaking and twisting.

When backfilling, avoid voids between the roots, compact the soil so that the tree holds firmly in the ground.

Do not cover the root collar.

Compact the soil carefully, avoiding breaking the roots.

Tie the seedling to the stake, placing it on the north side, only with soft strapping material, placing insulating material at the point of contact with the trunk.

It is impossible to allow the strapping material to grow into the bark, this can later cause cracks in the wood.

Form a near-stem watering circle, water the seedling abundantly, mulch the near-stem circle.

It is important to form a near-stem circle of the tree, which, as the tree grows, will proportionally increase in diameter. To protect the roots from freezing in the first winter after planting, especially in dwarf rocks with a root system close to the soil surface, before the onset of stable frosts, the near-stem circle is insulated with peat, spruce branches or other material.

Influence of factors external environment for plant development

The growth and development of plants are associated with environmental conditions, the main ones are heat, light, water, air and nutrients. Only in the presence of all these factors and their optimal combination can plants grow and develop normally. Therefore, it is necessary to know the role of each factor in the life of cultures in order to be able to manage them.

Warmly

Heat affects all chemical transformations and movements of substances both in the plant and in the soil, on the beginning and duration of phenological phases and vegetation as a whole. A certain temperature regime is necessary for the growth, development and formation of the productive part of fruit and berry crops. In relation to heat, fruit and berry plants are conventionally divided into:

very thermophilic (citrus, peach, Walnut, apricot, persimmon and grapes);

heat-loving (cherry, pear, plum, cherry, apple tree);

less heat-loving (gooseberries, currants, car and strawberries).

The lack of heat in some years inhibits vegetative growth, impairs the process of pollination and fertilization of flowers, reduces the yield and quality of fruits, delays the growing season and worsens the readiness of plants for winter.

Fruit and berry plants also respond differently to the duration of the warm period. With a prolonged decrease in temperature, the growing season increases, shoot growth and fruit ripening slow down, and, as a rule, their quality deteriorates. The heat demand of plants various phases vegetation is not the same. Spring growth of taloni roots begins when the soil temperature reaches 4-5 °C, pears - 6-7, cherries - 6 °C. For active growth more roots needed heat soil - from 8 to 20 °C. With a sharp increase or decrease in soil temperature, root growth stops. For the growth of above-ground parts fruit plants a relatively high temperature is required. If the swelling of the buds in apple trees and other plants begins at 5 ° C, then their blooming and growth of shoots - at an air temperature above 10 ° C. For normal flowering, pollination and fertilization, plants need a temperature of 15-20 ° C. At low air temperatures, pollen that has fallen on the stigma of the pistil does not germinate and fertilization does not occur.

Early autumn and late spring frosts, severe frosts and deep winter thaws often cause damage to individual tissues, organs and parts of fruit trees, and sometimes their death.

Not always helpful excess heat during the growing season. Elevated temperature stops the growth of the root and above-ground systems, accelerates the flowering process, causes fruit anomalies, etc.

Temperature mode plays important role and during a period of relative rest. In autumn and early winter, at 0-2 ° C, the roots still absorb nutrients, synthesis occurs in their tissues organic compounds, in the aerial part, the deposition of reserve substances continues. The formation of fruit buds, which began in June-July, with favorable conditions continues in autumn, and the beginnings of flower buds overwinter more developed. Dangerous for fruit plants very low temperatures in winter. Most sensitive to frost root system.

The roots of dwarf rootstocks of apple trees, as well as strawberries, die at a soil temperature of -8-10 ° C, and the roots of rootstocks of wild forest apple trees and seedlings of Antonovka ordinary at -14 ° C

The root system is especially affected in snowless winters, as well as after dry summers and autumns.

At severe frosts the bark and wood in the forks of trees and at the base of boles are especially damaged, since physiological processes and preparation for a period of deep dormancy are completed later in their tissues. Often, plants are damaged by frost in late winter and early spring (February-March).

During this period, there are sudden changes in temperature: from -10-20 at night to -5-10 °С during the day. Daytime positive temperatures contribute to the beginning of the vegetation, so the tissues come out of dormancy, lose their hardening and lose their ability to withstand night frosts. Under such conditions, the bark of boles suffers from sunburn, as well as

flower buds, especially in stone fruits (plum, cherry, sweet cherry). Very dangerous late spring frosts coinciding with the phase of mass flowering of trees and shrubs. very sensitive to low temperatures stamens, pistils and ovules. At a temperature of -1 - 1.5 ° C, the stigmas and ovules of plum and cherry perish, and at -2 ° C, the young ovaries of the apple tree.

Individual parts have different winter hardiness fruit tree: the aerial part is more winter-hardy than the root system; growth buds are more resistant to low temperatures than flower buds. In turn, the flowering buds of stone fruit plants are more sensitive to frost than pome plants.

In conditions middle lane the air temperature in winter usually does not fall below the level dangerous for fruit plants, and the growing season has a favorable temperature regime, and long enough. The possibility of growing breeds and varieties in specific areas is determined by the sum of biologically active temperatures and winter conditions, which should be strictly taken into account when developing breed and variety zoning. Different breeds and even varieties of the same breed have varying degrees winter hardiness. Resistance to low temperatures, which is determined by the frost and winter hardiness of plants, is the main limiting factor in the cultivation of certain breeds and varieties in the middle zone.

There are acute and chronic rheumatism. Acute rheumatism begins with aching, slight chills, fever. There are pains in the joints

When it comes optimal time for planting trees, shrubs, vines, grasses, it is worth remembering the most common mistakes when planting plants in order to avoid them.

Mistake 1. Non-compliance optimal timing landing. Depending on the region and planting material landing is carried out at the following times:

• in southern regions - plants with an open root system are planted in autumn and winter: from the end of November to the end of February, with a closed root system (in containers) - throughout the year (in summer with shading);
• in northern regions - spring planting is preferable before the start of the growing season, it is better to plant plants with a closed root system.

Error 2. Incorrect preparation of the landing pit. Plants are planted in pre-prepared pits, which are prepared in 2-3 weeks; for spring plantings it is better to cook them from autumn, and for autumn - a month before planting. The size of the landing holes should be:

• for shrub seedlings - 70 x 70 cm,
• for plants with a lump - more than the size of a lump by at least 30 cm,
• for a hedge, a trench is being prepared instead of holes.

The width of the trenches depends on the number of rows of hedges. For single-row, it is 40-50 cm, for double-row - 70-90 cm, for multi-row, up to 30-40 cm is added for each subsequent row. The depth of the trenches should be 50-60 cm.

Mistake 3. Ignoring the consequences of construction. In areas under construction, large quantity construction debris, it is necessary to dig holes with a size of at least 150x100 cm with a complete replacement of the soil. To fill the pit, humus-soddy land is prepared at the rate of 20-25 kg of rotted manure per pit or running meter ditches.

Error 4. Mixing soil layers. When preparing planting pits, one of the most common mistakes is the mixing of the upper fertile layer with the lower - infertile. Only suitable for backfilling roots fertile soil. Planting pits are filled with humus or compost (10-20 kg for trees, 6-8 kg for shrubs) mixed with soil. In the first year of planting, it is not recommended to use mineral fertilizers.

Mistake 5. Making fresh manure. In the planting holes, some novice gardeners bring in fresh manure, which can burn the roots and the whole plant. When planting, only rotted manure is used; apply slightly decomposed manure into landing pit also undesirable, since there is a high probability of a decrease in plant survival.

Mistake 6. Do not drain. On heavy, clayey, too wet soils, they forget to make mandatory drainage from broken brick and sand.

Mistake 7. Forgetting to revise the root system. When planting plants with an open root system, they forget to inspect the roots, trim the dried tips and remove damaged roots. Roots must not be allowed to dry out. When planting plants, the roots are straightened, they monitor whether the seedling has deviated to the side, or turned out to be too high or low planted.

Mistake 8. The position of the root neck is incorrectly determined(the place where the trunk goes to the root). When planting grafted plants, the position of the root neck is not taken into account. As a rule, it should be at ground level. If the plant is obtained from a cutting, the root neck is not expressed, and some deepening (by 3-5 cm) of seedlings is quite acceptable. The exception is clematis, in which the root neck is deepened by at least 5-10 cm (young plants) and 10-12 cm (adults), as well as flower perennials, in which the rhizome grows vertically upwards (astilbe, geyhera, large rhizome geranium) : they can be deepened by a few centimeters. Plants with a basal rosette of leaves are planted so that the center of the rosette is not buried in the ground.

Mistake 9. Forget about pruning plants. Weak and broken shoots are removed before planting. Roses leave 3-4 strong shoots, which are shortened at about a height of 10-15 cm, leaving 2-4 buds on them.

Mistake 10. They heard about the "miraculous" clay mash, which increases the survival rate of plants during planting, but they are too lazy to do it. To prepare a clay mash, a small amount of clay is added to 10 liters of water (so that after dipping in a mash, a small amount of clay remains on the hand). thin layer clay), 1 tablet of heteroauxin or a bag of root (you can use any other root stimulator, according to the instructions) and 1 kg of rotted manure. Add components in the order listed. The roots treated with the talker must be dried in the open air for 30 minutes, and then the plant should be planted in prepared moistened pits.

Mistake 11. Forget about watering before planting. It is important to water the dressed planting hole before planting.

Error 12. When planting plants with a closed root system, the root ball is not preserved; this often happens if the plant has not been watered before it is released from the container.

Mistake 13. Forget about supports and a garter. Seedlings planted on the windward side must necessarily be tied to support stakes, which are installed in the pits before or during planting; immediately establish a support for vines.

Mistake 14. Do not follow the recommendations for watering plants after planting and mulching. The soil around the planted plants must be well compacted, watered and mulched with sawdust, crushed bark or peat to reduce moisture evaporation and curb the development of weeds.

Mistake 15. Forget about shelter. In the year of planting, young plants are forgotten to cover with spruce branches to protect them from frost and frost (this is especially true for coniferous, evergreen rhododendrons).

If the bark is damaged, no poisons will save. In practice, the preservation and treatment of the bark is almost more important than other protective measures. Literally in every garden there are trees with gnaws, woodworm passages. A common occurrence is the destruction of the bark around dry stumps, or even the owner himself will smear the root neck with salidol and wrap it with a rag: a neighbor advised. The trees themselves are also not without flaws: for example, pears form too thick a scab, and cherries and cherries often tear the bark - it is not prone to expansion in them. In almost all cases, it is easy to stop the rot, heal the wound, and even stimulate the growth of new bark. To do this, you need two main attributes: a knife and clay.

NOT JUST WHITEPAPER

Every spring we pray to the God of Order: we whitewash the trees. In fact, this was invented to prevent “bark burns”: in the spring, during the day, the bark heats up, and at night it freezes and, as it were, dies. However, Valery Petrovich Chernyshov from Saratov established a more real reason for the death of the bark, and even entire stone fruit trees: with a sharp thaw, the buds began to grow, but the earth had not yet thawed - the roots did not give water. The leaves simply suck water out of the tissues, and the tree is completely dehydrated. So, even lime has nothing to do with it. And it’s better not to talk about its sanitary significance at all, it hasn’t killed anyone for a long time.

Meanwhile, since ancient times, European gardeners have been using a mixture of clay, mullein and ash to coat trees. In our old literature, the same composition is often mentioned, but without the ash. Dilute clay with mullein approximately in half to the density of sour cream and apply with a paint brush on the trunk and branches. Such a talker is really useful. Clay keeps on the tree for a long time, protects from the sun and frost, from dry winds, but at the same time it “breathes” perfectly. Mullein sticks together clay and prevents it from falling off, and also contains a lot of nutrition and bioactive substances. The clay is wet - the bark is nourished and stimulated, dried - protects the growing bark. You can add a little lime and vitriol to the talker, and the trees will flaunt a beautiful ocher-salad “clothes”. Personally, I don’t see the point in just decorating trees with whitewash, but if you need to preserve the cambium, heal a wound or rejuvenate the bark, this composition is indispensable. I think two buckets of clay will last you all summer.

HOW TO REJUVENATE THE CORK

Basically, this applies to pears. Especially undersized, grafted on quince. Their bark quickly dies off from the outside, forming a scab that presses on the cambium and prevents it from growing new tissues. There is a scab on old apple trees.

Take a scraper for old paint or an old file - this will be a scrub - and scrape off the entire scab to green scratches - to a layer of young bark. It is best to do this after rain, when the bark is soft. Now apply the mentioned “moisturizing and nourishing cream” to the tree. Over the summer, the bark will thicken, and the tree will revive.

HOW TO HEAL A WOUND

Any rot, cancer, a zone of dead or dying bark should be cut with a knife as soon as possible, without waiting for autumn, with a knife to a healthy greenish bark. Sometimes you have to walk a meter or two along the trunk and branches with a knife, removing entire strips. It often happens that only the upper part of the bark dies, while the cambium under it is still alive, and a stain of bare wood is obtained, slippery from the living cambium. Don't think that a naked cambium is bound to die. He is too fast and active. Of course, in the sun, in the heat it will dry out. But in cloudy weather, it will have time to quickly "endow" new cells and form an integumentary tissue. After a couple of weeks, you look - and in the hole there is a new bark, thin, but completely real! It is a sin not to use such activity: the cambium is exposed - cover the wound and it will remain alive.

After cutting out the rot or dryness, cover the wound with our “balm”, diluted thicker this time, and wrap it with a film or rag on top, but not too tight. After a month and a half or two, remove the bandage: everything that is possible has already grown there, and now in the light and air the tree will quickly complete what is needed. And we can help him increase the outgrowth of the new bark by again holding the "scalpel".

furrowing

A forgotten and very effective technique that allows you to expand the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cortex.

Where it is necessary to expand the bark and strengthen the wood, sharp knife carry out a linear longitudinal cut, cutting through the bark and slightly delving into the wood. Cambium immediately begins to heal the furrow, filling it with new tissues, and the volume of the furrowed part increases.

First of all, the trunks of young trees are furrowed. This is especially true for cherries and cherries. Their bark wraps around the trunk in transverse rings. In dry years, it becomes very coarse, shrinks like a collar, and does not allow the cambium to grow new tissues. If after that moisture is in excess, the cambium tears the bark. You have seen such lacerated wounds more than once. To allow the tree to thicken freely, in spring or summer, furrow the trunk on both sides, and the branches on the bottom. If after half an hour the bark has diverged by more than 2-3 mm, it is better to cover the furrow with clay or earth.

Gaucher furrowed both shoots and twigs, and even fruit twigs, if he wanted to strengthen them. But this is of little use to us. But to strengthen the surviving part of the bark is useful. Or speed up the closing of the rootstock stump with the bark of the scion. In both cases, it is necessary to furrow twice: in May and at the end of June. And if you have especially tender feelings for your trees, use our Plinity Lift every time after furrowing. After all, they deserve it!