Indoor violets- amazing flowers that leave no one indifferent. But few people manage to enjoy their beauty for a long time, because violets - capricious plants requiring special attention. But subject to all the rules for care, they will delight the owners with beautiful flowers for more than one week a year. Why violets do not bloom and what can be done, every owner of these beauties needs to know.

Violet care at home

Many lovers of these plants often try to make the violet bloom. In fact, in order to admire the flowering of this miracle on the windowsill, you should create conditions that meet the needs of capricious violets.

The effect of light on the plant

Quite often it is wrong lighting becomes the reason why the violet does not bloom at home. The flower will show signs of the absence of a lack of light very soon, and it will be possible to notice on it:

• excessively elongated petioles of the plant;
• upward directed leaves;
• pallor of the leaf plate;
• light spots on the leaves.

To eliminate this problem, it is necessary, first of all, to transfer the flower to a more lit place in the room. However, when choosing it, it is worth remembering that direct sunlight has a negative effect on the violet and can quickly burn it. It is best to place the beauty in the northern or northeastern part of the house.

If the flower is at least 12 hours a day in a well-lit place, then after a short time it will be possible to admire its flowering.

The effect of air on the flower

With insufficient air humidity, the leaves of the plant begin to gradually wither, although at first outwardly everything looks as if the violet continues to grow.

in spring and summer time when the premises are well and often ventilated, the plant receives required level humidity. In autumn and winter, when the heating is turned on in the houses and the humidity drops, it is necessary to create special conditions for flowering:

• put wet towels on the battery under the plant;
• if possible, turn on humidifiers;
• pour peat into the pan, after wetting it well with water.

Fulfillment of all these requirements will necessarily lead to the fact that the plant will breathe better and, as a result, will bloom.

Choosing the right pot

When the violet does not bloom, but a lot of leaves have grown and continue to grow, the reason for this is in the wrong pot. Common mistake flower lovers is that they try to plant a violet in big pot and it's their fault. The plant has a small root system and in a large bulky pot it simply cannot fill all its space, as a result of which it will turn yellow and disappear.

The best option for this beauty would be a pot three times smaller than a plant outlet.. For an adult violet, you can choose a larger container, but not more than 200 ml. As soon as the plant is in a pot where the roots feel cramped, it will soon bloom.

Soil and its features

The reason that the plant does not bloom may also be improperly selected soil. A sign of this is the formation of a gap between the walls of the pot and the ground. At the same time, the violet itself can deceptively look cheerful and healthy.

For full flowering, preference should be given to land that contains a large number of useful ingredients. In addition, the beauty must be transplanted at least three times a year into different soils, since over time the soil is depleted, and this negatively affects the plant as a whole.

Correct watering mode

Quite often it is improper watering is the reason why it does not bloom home beauty. With a lack of moisture, the plant begins to dry, and with an excess, it rots. root system. Sometimes for the full development of the flower it will be enough just to stop pouring a lot of water into the pot.

Water for irrigation must first be defended for at least a day and be sure to ensure that it is room temperature.

To date, experts identify several methods of watering that will contribute to the proper development and flowering of violets:

1. Water must be poured directly into the pan, and after a while the remaining liquid should be poured out. This will keep the soil from getting too wet.
2. A pot with a plant is placed in a large container, and when the soil is saturated with the necessary amount of moisture, it is returned to permanent place. Thus, the plant itself absorbs required amount liquids.
3. Watering from above. Here it is necessary to ensure that the flow of water does not fall on the outlet and leaves.

Feeding

Violets are very fond of care and good care. The reason why they bloom poorly may also be the lack or inadequate application of top dressing. With a deficiency of nutrients, the plant can develop and have a healthy appearance, but it will not bloom for a long time.

Feeding should be done at least once a week. Preference should be given to special fertilizers for violets. Best of all, Saintpaulia, developed according to all the requirements and features of the flower, has proven itself.

Diseases and harmful organisms

Even an inexperienced grower will notice that the plant is sick. If you look closely at the soil and leaves, you can notice signs of pest infestation or other diseases.

Florists call the most common diseases of violets:

The age of the flower is also an important factor.. Flower growers say that the younger it is, the more flowers it gives. It is customary to consider a plant younger than 4 years of age as young.

There is another reason why the violet does not bloom: a lot of leaves that have grown in a pot take strength from the plant. As soon as there are more than 8 petioles on one stem, the extra ones must be removed immediately. Do this with your hands and in no case use a knife or scissors.

Even if a healthy-looking violet does not bloom long time- this is an occasion to change some conditions for keeping a flower. Then the result will not be long in coming.

Attention, only TODAY!

Gorgeous, plentiful blooming flower bed- the pride of any grower. No garden or country cottage area not to do without at least small plantings of flower crops. But in order to achieve lush flowering, gardeners often have to apply fertilizer for flowers. Below you will find the basic rules for making nutrients.

Types of fertilizers

All flower crops most need the 3 most important elements nutrition - NPK complex (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). In addition to the above items, they also need:

• magnesium;
• copper;
• calcium;
• iron;
• zinc;
• manganese;
• molybdenum;

All fertilizers are divided into mineral and organic. They can be single-component, or contain a complex of substances.

organic fertilizers

If the question arose of how to feed the flowers in the garden, it is best to turn to organic fertilizers. Since the substances in them are in an easily digestible form. The most effective of them:

1. bird droppings;
2. horse dung;
3. goat manure;
4. sheep manure;
5. cow dung;
6. sawdust;
7. peat;
8. compost.

Pig dung or any other fresh manure should not be used. It can burn plant roots. Only rotted manure can be used. It is used to feed flowers in the fall. Phosphate fertilizers are usually added to it.

Video: TOP 6 natural fertilizers for indoor flowers

But before using any kind of organics, it is necessary to consider species features. Humus and compost can be used for all types of flowers. It is recommended to mulch the ground around the flowers with them.

Mineral fertilizers

If there is no desire and opportunity to mess with organic matter, you can use one-component or complex mineral fertilizers for flowers. They include one substance, or a complex of macro- and microelements.

Nitrogen is essential for the growth of green parts of plants. Therefore, it should not be applied in large quantities. If for feeding were chosen complex fertilizer for flowers, the amount of nitrogen in them should not exceed 20%.

There are about 20 types of nitrogen-containing preparations on the agrochemical market. Nitrogen fertilizers for flowers include:

• ammonium chloride;
• urea (carbamide);
• sodium nitrate;
• ammonium nitrate;
• ammonium sulfate;
• calcium nitrate, etc.

The best known of these is urea. It is sold in the form of granules and is poured into the ground during planting. Potassium and phosphorus do not directly affect the flowering process, but they are able to strengthen the defenses of horticultural crops.

To fertilize flowers in the country or at home, you can use the following types of phosphate preparations:

• superphosphate;
• precipitate;
• drug "Buton";
• phosphate rock;
• stimulator "Energen";
• "Agricola" for flowering plants.

Phosphorus is difficult for plants to absorb. It is best applied in autumn or in early spring

To ensure that the flowers have a good wintering and abundant flowering in the next season, potash preparations are required:

• potassium chloride.
• potassium sulfate.
• Potassium nitrate.
• Kalimagnesia.

Natural mineral fertilizer can serve wood ash . Even its excessive amount will not harm plants, which cannot be said about chemicals.

Complex fertilizers

Such fertilizers are great advantage because they contain a large number of elements.

The most famous complex preparations include:

• Ammophosku;
• Ammophosphate;
• Nitroammophoska;
• Nitrophoska;
• Diammophos, etc.

To date, the popularity began to enjoy:

• "Master";
• "Pocon";
• "Kemira".

Feeding rules

Fertilizers for indoor and garden flowers should not be applied during lush flowering. The process can adversely affect plants. It is recommended to do this at the beginning of budding. Indoor flowers and plants under cover respond especially well to such timely fertilizers.

It is not recommended to apply substances immediately after flowering, as they can induce plants to form fruits. fertilize flowers it is better in autumn so that they have something to eat in early spring. This is especially important for perennials.

Home flowers require more trace elements than street. This is due to the fact that the soil in the pot is poorer than in the garden. It cannot obtain substances from the outside in a natural way, and is completely dependent on human care.

The choice of one or another type of nutrient depends not only on whether a flower grows in a room or in a garden, but also on the type of plant and the soil in which it was planted. So sandy soil is poor in the content of nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, and clay soil is poor in iron, manganese.

When choosing a fertilizer for garden and indoor flowers, you need to consider their growing season. Crops such as tulips, primroses do not need a lot of top dressing. But they consume a large amount of substances in a short period of time.

Horticultural crops growing over a long period of time consume more substances but gradually.

How to fertilize for flowering?

Nutrients are applied under the root, or by spraying the leaves. Fertilizers for flowers in the form of granules are applied directly to the soil (fall asleep in the ground and mixed) during planting.

Liquid forms are used for application under the root and for foliar dressings. Dry - dissolve in water. They are used during the summer months.

Spraying is well suited for weakened, diseased plants. This method can be used when using microfertilizers, which include one element: magnesium, zinc, copper, boron, or iron, etc. The procedure is carried out in cloudy weather or in the evening.

Nutrient mixtures are prepared from organic residues, laid under the root in the form of mulch. All mixtures are applied only on pre-moistened soil.

Fertilizing garden flowers

For plants in the country is better to choose universal fertilizers for flowers open ground. For such crops, agrochemical preparations with a mark of +7 are quite enough. All substances are applied in accordance with the instructions.

On average, to enrich 1 m 2 of soil with nutrients, up to 40 g of nitrogen are required at the beginning of the season, in autumn period- up to 60 g of phosphorus, potassium preparations.

Top dressing of annuals

All annuals life cycle takes place in 1 season. Therefore, 2 top dressings are quite enough for them.

Annual flower crops need nutrients:

• 2 weeks after planting in a permanent place of growth;
• at the beginning of flowering.

How to feed annual flowers?

After the plants have been planted in the ground, they need to increase the green mass. For this they need nitrogen. It is best to apply it in the form of organic fertilizers.

To increase immunity, strengthen the roots, abundant flowering phosphorus and potassium are needed. You can use any drug containing these elements.

When planting flowers as a fertilizer, you can use a mixture of peat, humus and lime meal (or eggshell). After a couple of weeks, synthetic substances can be added - 50 g per 1 bucket of water. During budding - apply manure. Proportions - 1 kg per 1 bucket of water. This mixture is enough for 1 m 2.

Top dressing of perennials

Perennial garden flowers need to be fertilized both in summer and autumn. After all, after flowering, they do not die off like annuals, but prepare for the coming winter. Nutrients are added at least 3 times:

• at the beginning of the season, when the snow completely melts and the ground warms up a little;
• at the beginning of flowering;
• after flowering.

For them it is very important autumn dressing. Depending on the type of plant, you may need up to 5 procedures.

Video: Caring for perennials in the garden and feeding them

How to feed perennial flowers?

In spring, perennials need nitrogen. In summer - in phosphorus. In autumn - in potassium. As additional food for garden flowers, one-component preparations, organics or complex mineral fertilizers can be used.

For example, you can use the following scheme:

• during planting in the ground, add urea (1-2 tablespoons per 1 m 2);
• after 2 weeks, add nitrophoska (up to 30 g per 1 m 2);
• during butanization - 30 g per 1 m 2 of nitroammophoska;
• for the winter - 15 g diammofoska.

Instead of diammophoska, flower roots can be covered with a layer of compost.

Top dressing of indoor flowers

Fertilizers for indoor flowers required to be paid regularly. Flower growers, as necessary, transplant their other soil. But the nutrients in the soil are only enough for a few months.

Growing indoor plants, you want them to bloom luxuriantly on an ongoing basis. This needs to be used proven life hacks- water plants special solutions. How and how to water indoor flowers so that they bloom, you will learn from today's article.

Competent care for indoor plants involves the introduction of several procedures, such as watering, fertilizing, loosening the soil, in rare cases transplanting, spraying, pinching, etc. The florist needs to focus in more detail on how to water indoor flowers so that they bloom. This heading includes both regular watering and with the addition of special ingredients, as well as top dressing in liquid form.

Watering and feeding indoor plants

In order for indoor flowers to bloom, they need to be watered and fed constantly. Houseplant nutrition is based on mineral and organic fertilizers. If indoor flowers have not been fed for several years, their flowering is noticeably smaller. General state plants gives out the lack of top dressing.

Oversaturation with fertilizers also detrimental to plant health. An overabundance of any components can lead to a violation in development. For example, if you feed nitrogen fertilizers during the flowering period, you can cause the suspension of blooming flowers.

The choice of water for irrigation affects the condition of the soil mixture of indoor plants no less than the applied fertilizers. For example, soil alkalization may cause the houseplant not to bloom. Enhanced Level pH(acidification) of the land will also entail Negative consequences for indoor flowers.

The rule of feeding and watering the soil mixture: maintain the necessary acidic, alkaline or neutral reaction of the soil mixture.

How to water flowers so that they bloom at home?

Normally, it is necessary to water and feed indoor flowers with fertilizers suitable for the variety. If indoor flowers do not bloom, you need to pick up appropriate care recovery.

How to water the flowers so that they bloom:

1. The first recipe is easy to make on your own at home: 1 tsp is poured into a 1 liter bottle. castor oil and fill the container with settled water, close the lid and shake the contents. Watered immediately.
2. Liquid mineral fertilizers based on potassium and phosphorus with the addition of trace elements (boron, zinc, molybdate, etc.) stimulate the flowering of indoor plants.
3. Over-rotted organics in small amounts are good for long-lasting, weather-resistant blooms.

In addition to direct irrigation and fertilization with liquid useful substances, you can carry out foliar sprays based on minerals with trace elements, which also improve the flowering of indoor plants.

Note to the florist: Pure castor oil can burn the roots of houseplants. Castor oil it is perfectly shaken together with water, dividing into small particles, therefore this type of fertilizer, which can be watered with indoor flowers, is safe for green pets.

Peonies and lilies will bloom much faster if you build a film cover over them.

Gladioli will bloom 12 days earlier if their corms are germinated in advance in a room with 60% humidity and a temperature of 22-27 ° above zero. Germinate 40-45 days before planting. The temperature may be higher - then things will go faster, but the humidity requirement is strict 60% so that the roots do not start growing and are not damaged when planting. If the humidity drops, the corms will dry out. To speed up the start of flowering, it is better to plant corms under a film, in beds heated under the same film. All this will lead to the fact that gladioli can bloom as early as the end of June.

For pruning, you need to use a sharp pruner, and cut out thick old branches with a garden pip, covering the cuts.

At hybrid tea roses 3-5 strong branches are chosen, arranged symmetrically, and 2-3 buds are left on each such branch.

How to prolong flowering?

To prolong the flowering of annuals, it is necessary to prevent the formation of seeds. To do this, pluck faded flowers or inflorescences.

Border annuals, such as ageratum, lorbularia, can be cut off when flowering, leaving a “stump” of 2-3 cm, watered and fertilized. Then by the end of summer they will bloom again.

Peonies will bloom later if at the end of winter the snow is compacted around the bushes and this "ice fortress" is covered with a layer of sawdust. Remove the sawdust in mid-May.

If perennial lupine cut off faded stems at the base without damaging the leaves of the rosette; by autumn it will bloom a second time.

Clematis will bloom longer if some of the spring-grown shoots are cut 30 cm from the ground. They will grow later, therefore, and bloom later than uncircumcised ones.

Water the flowers, feed them in a timely manner and monitor their health - this prolongs their life.

How much watering do the flowers need?

How is June without water? And not only in June, but throughout the summer, and any flower will agree with this, especially if the weather is dry, and flowering requires strength and moisture. Even faded tulips, daffodils and hyacinths require watering.

Annuals are especially sensitive to watering:,.

Marigolds, cornflowers, ageratum, vervain, dimorphoteka, purslane, mignonette, scabiosa, zinnia agree to “tolerate” quite a bit.

Biennials need constant watering: daisies, forget-me-nots, Vitrokaa violets; perennials: aquilegia, delphinium, gladiolus, dahlias, clematis, lilies of the valley, daylilies.

The two-year-old stockrose and the perennial gypsophila will endure the drought.

The rest of the flowers are moderately moisture-loving, but all need your attention and love. Especially in the form of a drop of water in June.

How to prune indoor citrus fruits?

At correct formation the crowns of these grafted trees begin to bear fruit already in the third year. What is the right way to cut them? First of all, remember that any pruning is best done on the waning moon, closer to the new moon, but not exactly on the new moon.

Citrus fruits are demanding on soil moisture, air and, in general, on conditions close to their habitat. The fruits appear on the shoots of the fourth order of branching, therefore, after each growth wave, the most upper part growth is pinched to increase branching orders. Also remove fatty and thickening branches. When dry, part of the crown may drop leaves, and then the upper dry part must be cut off - in the lower part, the leaves will bloom again.

The formed tree should have a small bole, 10-15 cm in height and 3-4 correctly spaced side branches first order. In order not to unnecessarily cut the plants, use tweezers more often, bend down vertically growing branches or tie up the ones that are lowered.

How to choose indoor plants so that all year round enjoy bloom? Today I will try to answer this question, posed to me by the inquisitive minds of U-mom nerds.

Spring

For a real gardener, the year begins in spring. It is in spring that plants wake up after hibernation and begin to grow. Some, especially frisky ones, immediately begin to bloom.

March

By March duration daylight hours in the Urals is 10 hours 39 minutes. Light becomes enough for the normal life of plants. Most often, by March, all plants are already noticeable active growth. At this time, for the formation of new shoots, plants need a large amount of mineral salts and water, so in March they make transplants, resume feeding, and increase watering.

The spring sun can be excessive for many plants, especially those placed on south and southeast windows. It is best to shade with gauze, tulle, plastic wrap.

If in March-April the plants were not transplanted into fresh nutrient soil, it is not too late to do so in May. Flowers protect against sun rays and at first watered sparingly, sprayed daily until the roots recover. Feeding begins no earlier than a month after transplantation. In fast-growing fuchsias, pelargoniums, jasmines, in order to achieve abundant flowering, pinch the tops, completely or half remove fatty shoots.

if you have covered balcony, with positive day and night temperatures, it is already possible to put indoor plants there. Daily temperature fluctuations will encourage many to lush flowering.

Clerodendrum bloom in May , neomarica, saintpaulia, vacationers bloom in winter pelargonium , anigozanthos, brunfelsia, abutilon, eschinanthus, calistemon, bellflower, crossandra, fuchsia, gardenia, lantana camara, stephanotis, streptocarpus begin to bloom.

Summer

Summer inevitably comes after spring, and the grower's worries are added.

June

Threat return frosts in the Urals passes after about the 12th. If you still have not taken indoor flowers to the balcony, or your balcony is open, you can do this in June.

Many plants will be much more beautiful, more powerful and better endure the winter if they are taken out for the summer in the garden or on the balcony. These plants include Bengal and garden roses, oleanders, palms, aucubas, fuchsias, aralia, azaleas, abutilons, hibiscuses, dwarf grenades, cacti, aloe and other succulents. They are gradually accustomed to the sun and wind, at first they are shaded or placed under a tree. To avoid overheating of the roots and overdrying earthy coma pots are added dropwise (on the balcony - in boxes with earth, peat or sand). Plants are watered systematically in the morning and evening as the soil dries out, sprayed or poured over the leaves and stems with water.

In summer, plants grow intensively, and also store nutrients in the roots for the winter. It is in summer that flower buds form. blooming in winter and early spring plants: camellias, cyclamen, hippeastrums, hyacinths, daffodils, tulips.

The tender Gesneria, ferns, aroid, epiphytic cacti remaining in the room are shaded from the sun with gauze or film, watered with water at room temperature. Occasionally they are fed with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer. The earth is periodically loosened. In pots with untransplanted plants, it is useful to carefully remove upper layer and add fresh nutrient soil.

Blooming in June balsams , begonias, violets, anthuriums, gloxinia , adeniums, geraniums, allamanda, datura, achimenes, kufeya, hoya, hypocirta, pachistachis, passionflower bloom. Ardisia, which bloomed in June, will bear fruit by winter.

July

Almost all nice flowering plants preferably kept outdoors. This is due to the fact that no more than half of the sunlight, which is so necessary for the formation of flower buds. In summer, plants consume a lot of water and mineral salts and therefore need abundant watering and top dressings. Into the cold rainy weather watering and fertilizing are reduced.

On clear hot days, plants are shaded with gauze, often sprayed (but not in the sun). Located on balconies over hardy species also protect from midday sunlight to avoid the destruction of chlorophyll, the drying of the leaves. Water as needed daily in the morning and evening.

July pleases with flowers of luxurious gloriosa, Eliot's calla, cassia, catharanthus, cestrum, erythrina, oleander, nightshade, caladium and many other plants. On the balconies annuals are rampant - petunias, ageratums, lobelias, left-handed, mignonette, verbena, sponges, celosias, heliotropes, tunbergias, ever-flowering begonias, daisies, morning glory, fragrant tobacco, zinnias.

August

In August, the vital activity of plants is already directed from intensive growth to the ripening of wood, bulbs, and tubers that have grown over the summer. There is an accumulation of nutrients for the winter. At the same time, we can observe the active flowering of indoor and balcony plants.

In August, agapanthus, akalifa, eucharis, ruellia makoya bloom. Gerberas, which are grown as indoor plants, begin to bloom, their flowering can last until November.

Autumn

After August comes September, the foliage on the trees turns yellow, reddens, fades. Autumn comes into its own everywhere, it will also affect indoor flowers.

September

September falls on critical period in the life of indoor plants - the time of the end of growth and the transition to a state of rest. The nights are getting cooler, the days are waning, and on September 23 the autumnal equinox arrives. If September is sunny, then there is enough light to continue the luxurious flowering of indoor plants, especially if they are outdoors.

Flowers that bloom continuously under the rays of the autumn sun require a lot of water and “food”, so flowering plants in September in good weather continue to be watered abundantly and fed at the same time, but only once a week.

A strong September growth of indoor plants is quite possible, but not desirable, because young autumn shoots do not have time to ripen by winter. Young leaves evaporate a lot of moisture, in winter they will draw water from the lower mature leaves and thereby cause them to fall. Therefore, growing crops in September no longer feed and gradually reduce their watering to cause the end of growth. In cold wet weather in the second half of September, plants are watered even less often than in winter, especially ficuses, aloe and cacti.

Plants that spent the summer in the country or on the balcony, it's time to return home.

In September, aphelandra, achimenes, chrysanthemums, ceropegia, amaryllis, valotta, catarina gemanthus, krinum bloom.

October

In October, the amount of light is still decreasing, by the end of the month daylight hours will be only 9 hours and 20 minutes. It is often rainy or cloudy. On October 14, according to popular belief, it should snow at all - they celebrate the day of the Intercession of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Days are shorter than nights, but after the start heating season for indoor plants, warm nights are coming, which are getting longer and longer.

Most indoor plants go into winter dormancy. Therefore, they are watered much less frequently and do not feed until spring. They systematically loosen the earth in pots, remove the moss that forms on its surface, if necessary, add a little peat and sand. In order for the earthen lump to be in a moderately moist state, the soil is covered with a layer of sphagnum moss, periodically spraying it. To increase the humidity in the room, containers with water or raw sand are installed on the batteries, humidifiers, fountains are turned on.

Flowering saintpaulias, bluebells (campanulas), sambac jasmine, begonias, primroses and other plants continue to be watered regularly, but moderately warm water. Roses, geraniums, fuchsias, begonias bloom on sunny windows in October. In cool rooms, cyclamens and primroses, which have prepared strong buds in summer, bloom, in warm rooms - hippeastrums and epiphyllums.

November

In November, winter sets in for indoor plants, the most unfavorable period. Plants suffer from lack of light and elevated night temperatures. Some plants may have long weak shoots.

Some plants are desirable to highlight. Light-loving species (American agave, aloe tree, three-lane sansevier, netcreasia, chlorophytum) are placed on the windowsill. Cacti and other succulents are placed near the glass. Shade-tolerant plants (ferns, peperomia, aspidistra, monstera) are placed in the background - on stands and tables.

Plants growing naturally in the subtropics tolerate winter better in a cool room (10-12ºС). These include laurel, boxwood, myrtle, ivy, cissus, ofiopogon, etc. They are watered occasionally as the clod of earth dries, sprayed, the surface of the earth in pots and tubs is periodically loosened.

Cold-resistant crops will overwinter well in a dry, ventilated room (2-6 ° C). These include coniferous plants, laurels, oleanders, agapanthuses, fuchsias, hydrangeas. Some of them lose their leaves in the winter.

Species of tropical origin (saintpaulia, orchids, episcia, etc.) continue to grow and bloom. They are regularly watered, sprayed (except episcia) with warm water and illuminated fluorescent lamps. With the onset of the heating season, the air in the apartments becomes dry, so the plants are often sprayed, once a week the leaves are washed with water under warm shower. Water procedures prevent pests.

Continue to bloom in November cyclamens and bloom zygocactus, azaleas , Ethiopian calla, poinsettias, hymenocallis.

Winter

December

December is the darkest month of the year. The days are waning until winter solstice, and at the same time, the conditions for the existence of indoor plants, which live mainly due to the reserves of nutrients deposited in the summer, are continuously deteriorating. daily production of these substances is negligible. Most plants are watered moderately, and those that are at rest - rarely, so long as the earth does not dry out.

Indoor flowers on the windowsill, in order to avoid hypothermia of the earthy clod, it is useful to install on a platform of wooden slats or stands 2-3 cm high.

To protect plants from hot dry air coming from radiators central heating, a shield made of plywood or plexiglass is attached to the window sill from the side of the room, sometimes a piece of film 15-20 cm high is enough.

Ficuses are watered moderately, as from excessive moisture soil leaves fall off and plants lose their decorative appearance.

Orchids with developing flower stalks are regularly watered and kept in a bright, cool place.

Azaleas in the budding stage are placed in a warm room (18-23 ° C), evenly watered and sprayed daily.

In order for the camellias not to drop their buds and bloom, they are kept in a cool room (12-15 ° C) and, like azaleas, they are watered and sprayed.

At the end of the month, the rhizomes of achimenes, nodules of gloxinia that have passed the dormant period are planted in small pots with fresh loose soil.

Maintain the cleanliness of all plants, remove dust from smooth leaves with a damp cloth (remove from pubescent ones with a brush or blow off).

Camellias bloom, and still bloom cyclamens . After a period of autumn cooling bloom phalaenopsis.

January

In January, the days gradually lengthen. The conditions for the existence of indoor plants begin to change very slowly in better side, however, the consumption of stored summer nutrient reserves continues.

For dieffenbachia, aglaonema, philodendrons, ficuses, saintpaulia, monstera, aphelandra, anthurium, the most favorable temperature is 16-18 ° C. Lowering it to 12-14°C is not harmful to plants, but watering is reduced to avoid root rot.

It should be noted that in winter, plants suffer more from excessive heat than from low temperature. Drafts and dry air are also harmful. To make life easier for plants, they try to humidify the air in the room, they wash the plants in the shower.

Most plants are dormant. Water moderately, it is desirable to water with water at room temperature. Plants do not feed. Pots can be rotated different parties to the light.

To prevent the leaves from freezing during severe frosts on the windowsill window glass hang a transparent film. Plants in poorly heated rooms are removed from the windowsill at night.

Saintpaulias, cyclamens, zygocactus, primroses, callas blooming in winter contain at 16-18 ° C closer to the light or illuminate with lamps daylight, placing them at a distance of 10-15 cm from the top of the plants. The duration of additional lighting is 12-14 hours a day.

Hippeastrums, clivias, and eucharis that are in the budding stage or blooming are regularly watered with warm, settled water and fed once every two weeks.

Forcing hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, brunfelsia, hybrid cineraria bloom,kalanchoe blossomfeld , lachenalia, saintpaulia, cyclamen, zygocactus, primrose, calla lilies, clivia, eucharis.

February

February in the life of indoor plants is a transitional period from winter to spring. The days are getting longer, at noon sunny day the room temperature rises noticeably. thermophilic and shade tolerant plants give healthy growth.

At this time, there is still little light. And although the day is coming, it is still short, so the plants are placed closer to the windows or illuminated with fluorescent lamps.

Most species are in a state of relative dormancy. They are watered only when the top layer of earth in the pot dries out.

Cacti and many Mesembryanthemaceae are dormant and not watered. Succulents are watered very rarely, so that the substrate dries out between waterings; Watering is best done on clear days.

Blooming azaleas, hippeastrums, clivia, columnae, primroses, saintpaulias, orchids, bromeliads are watered at room temperature very carefully so that the water does not stagnate, but also without drying out the earth. These plants can be fed once a month with a weak solution of a complete mineral or organic fertilizer. They, as well as other flowering crops, are very useful for supplementary lighting.

Houseplants: The Great Illustrated Encyclopedia (translated from French Krupicheva I.). - M: Eksmo, 2003.

1000 + 1 tips for caring for indoor plants / Author-comp. E. Manzhos. – M.: AST; Mn.: Harvest, 2005.

Hession D. All about indoor plants. - M: Kladez, 2005.

Bykhovets S.L., Goncharuk V.M. Diary seasonal care for indoor plants and flowers - Minsk: Harvest, 2004.