Often summer residents cut down a tree when aphids start up, leaves wither or branches dry up. Fruit trees and shrubs need care, and if there is no proper care, they die, infecting nearby plants with diseases.

It is not always clear why the process of drying the leaves began, the tree shed all the leaves or completely withered. You need to figure out what to do when the plum dries.

Causes

Not only people feed on plum fruits, but also various microorganisms that are not so easy to detect.

The plum tree suffers from three types of infections:

• bacteria;
• mushrooms;
• viruses.

Non-infectious causes of wilting:

Basically, infection occurs from disturbed ecology and abandoned areas near:

• Gum flow - translucent "tears" flow down from the damage and freeze, so the plum heals itself, sealing the wounds. But this weakens the tree, increases the risk of contracting serious diseases. Damage to the tree is treated with garden pitch or blue vitriol. With a heavy lesion, diseased branches are cut off.

• Damping - damage to the bark in the root zone, when snow falls in large quantities on the ground that has not had time to freeze. Compacting the snow, stamping it at the trunk, you can prevent damping. Someone is raking snow from the trunk so that the soil freezes. Then the snow is shoveled back.
• Violation of the water balance occurs due to the drying of the earth or excessive wetting of the soil and roots. Stagnation of water or drought contributes to the death of the root. In the dry season, it should be watered abundantly: normally 10 liters per 1 sq.m of the entire crown area. Excess water must be removed. You can do this with grooves.
• Plum trees frozen in winter dry out rapidly in spring. Nothing to help here. Next time, you should choose a frost-resistant variety and the right place to plant.
• Infection of wood, weakened by frost or disturbed water supply, first leads to the drying of individual branches, and then the entire plant. The water supply must be adjusted and arrangements made for next winter if most of the tree survives.
• Gardeners rarely meet with water rats, but rodents do a lot of harm: in winter they eat the bark of young plums, in summer - the roots. Against rodents in the fall, the plum trunk is tightly tied spruce branches needles down and in the thaw they trample down the snow near the trunk so that the rats cannot reach it.
• From insect pests should be sprayed with chemicals. It is important to spray correctly so that the fruits do not accumulate harmful elements - before flowering, immediately after flowering or before fruit ripening, and, if necessary, even after leaf fall. Insecticides perfectly cure insect pests: "karbofos" or "phosphamide", which must be treated before and after flowering, as well as in early August, when pests lay larvae. In case of damage by sapwood and leafworm, eating away passages in the tree, the preparations are powerless - you will have to cut and burn the branches.

It is not difficult to deal with non-infectious causes of plum drying, you just need to eliminate the shortcomings.

Infectious diseases

If you do not pay attention to the modifications of the leaves and fruits of the plum, then other plants will become infected, and soon you can be left without a garden.

Virus

All stone fruits fall ill with smallpox (sharka): cherry plum, apricot, cherry, etc. At first, the leaves are affected: light rings and stripes form on them, which turn yellow and dry out. Then the fruits become infected: they change color, become covered with light depressed rings, similar to pockmarks - hence the name. There may be stripes. The fruits are deformed, turn brown, fall off early, transparent gum appears on the "pockmarks". It carries an infection from other aphid plants, or maybe the virus was already in the purchased seedling or got through an untreated tool.

Chlorotic spotting (annular or mosaic) begins with the leaves, only in the center of the resulting pattern a hole forms, dead tissue disappears. The leaves become smaller, narrower, become stiff, with wrinkles. It is transmitted in the same ways as smallpox, infection through pollen is possible.

Viral diseases of the plum, as well as the fungal "Milky Shine" and the bacterial "Witch's Broom", cannot be cured with the drug. The plum will have to be uprooted and destroyed.

However, it is necessary to take preventive measures to protect neighboring and future trees: in the spring, before the buds appear, it is necessary to spray the trees with Bordeaux liquid 3% (300 g per 10 liters of water) and repeat the procedure after flowering with the same preparation, but only 1%.

Fungus

Mushrooms are widely distributed in dense plantings and in humid climates, but an outbreak can occur even in northern regions due to rainy summers:

Cytosporosis (drying infectious) leads to complete drying of the plum. The tree is affected through damage to the bark, which leads to the death of tissues. You can see small black tubercles under the dead bark - spores of the fungus. It is necessary to spray the tree with Bordeaux liquid 3% (300 g to 10 l of water) or fungicides.

Klyasterosporiosis (perforated spotting) affects not only the leaves, but also all the aerial parts of the tree: reddish spots appear on the leaves, turning into holes, then the leaves dry up. The shoots and bark are also covered with red spots, gum is visible at the lesions. The buds darken and fall off, also with flowers and fruits. The spores of the fungus are quickly spread by insects, tools or wind. For treatment, Bordeaux solution 1% (100 g to 10 l of water) or copper oxychloride (40 g to 5 l of water), as well as the drug "topsin M" are sprayed. Many treat the soil and trees before flowering with suitable fungicides.

Moniliosis (gray rot) is compared with a burn, because. the consequences are similar. Affected branches shrink with lightning speed, but flowers, fruits and leaves do not fall off. The disease is easy to recognize by rotting fruits that deteriorate right on the branch. Spores easily endure the winter and in the spring "attack" the surviving crops with renewed vigor. Bordeaux liquid 1% or copper oxychloride will help in the fight.

Pockets (handbags) are formed as a result of infection with fruit spores: plums of an unusual elongated shape in the form of pouches with little or no stones. The fruits do not ripen, do not grow, and soon dry out and fall off. Sprayed with Bordeaux liquid 3% (300 g to 10 l of water) or fungicides.

Fruits and leaves are affected by coccomycosis: they are distinguished by red-violet, and sometimes even brown spots, which soon cover the entire plum. The fruits grow irregularly shaped and are not edible. The leaves turn yellow or brown in a short time, after which the tree sheds them. Treated with copper sulphate or Bordeaux solution 1%.

Milky shine is distinguished by the silvery color of the leaves and air bubbles in them, then the leaves dry out. Brown spots are visible on the trunk and branches, then the plum bark darkens and begins to fall off in strips. There are cases of infection through vaccinations. It is unrealistic to save a tree; in this case, it should only be uprooted and burned. Treat the soil with a Bordeaux solution or copper-containing preparations, biofungicides.

Curly is visible in the shape of the leaves: they are corrugated, curled, turn yellow or redden. Then a plaque appears, the leaf dries out and falls off. The fruits are deformed or not tied. The spores of the fungus do not withstand frost, and most often the disease rages for only one season.

Plum rust is characterized by the appearance of the corresponding color of spots on the leaves, which darken by autumn and become like small pads. “Zineb”, copper-containing preparations, is excellent.

The sooty fungus affects the plum leaf - it seems to be covered with soot, it turns black, but this is just a coating that can be easily wiped off or washed off. Therefore, it is easiest to get rid of this disease. A soap-copper solution is sprayed (150 g of grated household soap mixed with 5 g of copper sulfate to 10 liters of water), copper oxychloride and 1% Bordeaux solution.

With verticillium, individual branches dry out, but the whole tree may die: from below, the leaves turn yellow and crumble, and from above they usually remain healthy green, like bast and bark. Most often young plums get sick. The main reason is a soil imperfect fungus of the genus Verticillium.

They effectively fight many fungal BIOpreparations: "phytodoctor", "phytosporin" and many other less toxic standard chemicals.

Bacterium

Bacterial spots on plum leaves appear as small roundness and lines. Further, the process of drying occurs and the spots turn yellow along the border. The fruits are also covered with convex dark spots with a white border and a scaly surface. The tree quickly turns black and dries out.

The "witch's broom" is distinguished by overgrown thin branches that appear as a result of infection of the tree with the smallest microorganisms. These twigs are barren, but they take a huge share of nutrition. The leaves below on such branches are covered with bloom.

For bacterial burns and diseases, the plum is sprayed with 1% copper sulphate (100 g to 10 l of water), 5% azofoska fungicides and antibiotics. The procedure is carried out in late spring and early July, during the flowering period, 3 times per season, observing an interval of 4–6 days.

Prevention methods

To prevent diseases, it is necessary to timely protect and prevent all garden trees and shrubs from different kind diseases, especially bacterial and fungal.

Prevention must be carried out correctly:

• cut the branches in time in moderation, and process the cuts with garden pitch;
• prevent damage to the bark;
• do not leave affected fruits;
• do not thicken with new planting crops;
• buy seedlings from trusted suppliers;
• disinfect garden tools before each treatment;
• timely spray with insecticides;
• regularly inspect the trees for the manifestation of diseases and, having found signs of infection, immediately cut and burn the branches;
• whiten the trunk and branches in autumn;
• harvest carefully, avoiding damage to the fruit;
• dig grooves, preventing waterlogging of the site;
• regularly sow green manure, especially mustard, which mushrooms do not like.

Before using any preparation, it is better to check its safety for leaves on individual branches. Fungicides are effective, but rather weak, and strong concentrations are prohibited for use due to toxicity.

A plot with fruit stone trees should be well ventilated and illuminated by the sun, which heats and dries the tree.

Only through hard work can you get a healthy and tasty harvest as a result!

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Plum seedling does not bud

How to revive low-quality seedlings

Even when the garden has everything your heart desires, you still have to plant something or replace it with new trees. Unfortunately, seedlings in the markets are often dried, rotted or moldy. Usually, what you bought in the market is unlikely to be exchanged. Therefore, we give you recommendations for the urgent rescue of planting material.

If you notice brown traces of black cancer on the trunk, then just cut the trunk below the black spot. Anyway, after planting, the seedling will need to be cut. It's just that your seedling will be trimmed more strongly. But it will certainly take root and give good growth next year.

If you notice thickenings on the roots of trees, do not write off throwing them entirely into the fire. Cut off the thickenings and burn, and dip the roots of the seedlings into a solution of 3% Bordeaux mixture, then rinse thoroughly with water: now you can start planting.

Wrinkled bark on the branches of a tree is bad. But do not rush to cut them to the very spine. You can try to save the seedling by throwing it "head" into a bath of water. There you can restore the water balance for two or three days. Only the water should be cold, otherwise the kidneys will get wet.

If you notice outgrowths and thickenings on seedlings of acacia and sea buckthorn - do not rush to throw them away or cut them off - these plants have thickenings provided by nature - they contain beneficial nodule bacteria.

If the seedling has short stumps instead of roots, then such planting material can be successfully planted. Only after planting cut off all the branches shortly, leaving small stumps. As soon as the roots of the seedling grow, the tops will more than grow. If you leave the entire crown, then the seedling will surely die.

For heavily dried seedlings, you can prepare "living water". To do this, take 1 tbsp for 10 liters of water. a spoonful of urea + 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate + a few drops of Kornevin. Seedlings are immersed in such a solution for 12-20 hours, after which they can be planted. Survival will be almost 100%.

If the seedling does not bud in the spring or they immediately dry up, then such a plant must be severely cut. They act simply - the whole tree is cut off 5 cm above the graft. Usually, after a few days, shoots appear from the remaining stump. They leave one of the strongest - the one that is higher than the vaccination. Wild shoots are immediately cut out. So that the new shoot does not break off, a support is stuck next to it, to which it is tied.

We hope that our advice will help you in the resuscitation of substandard seedlings.

source

zakustom.com

Plum planting

When to plant a plum.

Planting plum trees in autumn.

How to plant a plum in the spring.

plum care

Plum care in spring.

Plum care in summer.

Plum care in autumn.

Plum processing.

Watering plums.

Plum feed.

Plum winter.

plum pruning

When to prune a plum.

How to cut a plum.

Plum pruning in spring.

Summer pruning.

Plum pruning in autumn.

Plum propagation

How to propagate plum.

Propagation of plums by seeds.

Plum propagation by grafting.

plum diseases

plum pests

How to deal with plum

Plum varieties

Plum varieties for the Moscow region.

Early varieties of plums.

Medium sized plums.

Late varieties of plums.

plum properties

floristics.info

Growing plums let's be patient

Growing a plum tree requires knowledge and attention at all stages. Each is important for the result - obtaining tasty, pleasing gardener's eyes, fruits.

The survival rate, the growth of the seedling and the yield of an adult tree depend on how skillfully the plum planting is carried out.

Therefore, it is necessary to adhere to a number of rules.

Landing Rules

Plum is a genus of stone fruits. This family loves warmth, like all the closest relatives of the plum:

• Apricot;
• Cherry plum;
• Cherries;
• Peach;
• Cherry.

According to this list of representatives of the plum family, it is clear - southern plants. Mild southern winters make it possible to plant plums not only in spring.

Autumn planting is also successful, the tree withstands the cold and wakes up safely in the spring.

Planting seedlings in different seasons has differences, features.

You need to know how to grow plums in different regions.

Autumn and spring planting plums: choose the timing

Plum tolerates planting in different ways, when to plant it, the gardener decides, carefully weighing the pros and cons.

Terms strongly depend on the region of cultivation.

Pros and cons of autumn planting

Autumn is fertile for planting in the south, especially its second half. Seedlings leave for a dormant period, "fall asleep" for the winter.

Benefits of planting planting material in the fall:

1. Minimal injury: the kidneys are at rest, the movement of moisture and nutrient media is suspended in the roots. A young tree is less sensitive to manipulation.
2. Planted before winter, a month and a half before severe cold weather, the tree manages to settle in the ground. At the right depth, the soil tightly fits the skeletal roots and lateral roots. Autumn rain moisture and almost no evaporation eliminate the presence of voids around the roots.
3. The southern winter is often like a continuation of autumn. Seedlings manage to overwinter without problems, they wake up in the spring already as “natives”, without feeling changes.
4. By the time of hot weather, and it is usual for the southern spring, the seedling will adapt, will not perceive temperature fluctuations as stress.

For climatic zones located to the north, autumn planting is possible, but difficult and risky:

1. Weak seedlings can freeze slightly, even die.
2. The surface location of the feeding roots will require warming - mulching, shelter trunk circles. You have to cover them with snow. The stems must be whitewashed to prevent cracking of the thin surface layer of the stem in the cold. Otherwise, the temperature difference - the heating of the seedling during the day by the sun, alternating with frosty nights, "beats" the bark - it bursts.
3. Option: tying the stems with thick paper, this increases labor costs. If the garden is not at home, in the country - you have to continue the season of work on it in the winter.
4. Spring floods can destroy even a well-overwintered plum tree. Flooding disrupts air exchange in a waking plant. The roots are rotting.

Therefore, planting plums here is advisable - in the spring.

spring planting plum

“Prepare the sleigh in the summer ...” - the proverb is universal and true for preparing the “residence” of garden trees. It is better to choose and prepare a site for any landing season - from the fall.

Provide the tree:

• Wind protection - put under cover tall trees, pergolas, walls;
• sunny place;
• Convenient location for irrigation. If the climate is dry, plum planting is carried out taking into account the possibility of irrigation, closer to the water source;
• Prepare food in advance. In the fall, when digging the site, add humus. And better and landing pit dig before winter and fill it then.

A pit for planting is dug, taking into account the structure of the root system of seedlings and soil fertility.

Good, nutritious soil will allow you to plant a plum in a shallow - 60 cm - hole with a diameter of up to 80 cm.

If the soil is poor, the pit will be deeper, its width will be greater. Sufficient size: meter per meter.

Follow the verticality of the walls, otherwise uneven settlement of the earth, skew of the trunk is possible.

You don’t have to bury a tree a meter; half the depth will be occupied by earth mixed with humus.

The plum root system contains many lateral roots. They are shallow, provide food to the tree. Distributed within the projection of the crown.

This area is fertilized with organic matter (compost, humus, manured soil). This food is enough for the first years.

Skeletal roots go deep, they hold the tree, they can supply moisture.

But the plant is nourished by a superficial root system. In its zone, the soil is loosened, fertilized, and mulched from above to preserve moisture.

The depth of skeletal roots is close to the height of the tree itself.

Plum planting, adherence to technology, will determine the health and development of the tree to a large extent.

In the spring, the seedling is inspected, the upper third is removed with secateurs. This stimulates the growth of side branches well.

The kidneys should be swollen, alive. But not yet blooming. So it is easier for the plant to take root: it will wake up in new conditions.

Varietal seedlings are obtained by grafting varietal material onto a more hardy root - stock.

The grafting site is easy to see: it is thickened. Below the graft is the transition of the root into the trunk - the root collar.

Its location during landing is not arbitrary. The neck should be above the surface of the earth, deepening can destroy the tree.

The bark of the neck, which is in the ground, gradually rots and collapses, the tree withers.

Landing algorithm

Both in spring and autumn, a plum seedling is planted according to one algorithm:

1. A high stake is driven deep into the center of the pit - a support for the seedling. Check the strength of the fastening: the stake should not swing.
2. Fertile soil is poured into a prepared pit filled with fertilized soil. The slide is made above the edges of the pit - then it will settle. If poured lower, after planting and watering, a recess is formed. This will be a mistake: stagnation of irrigation and rain water at the stem will lead to its decay.
3. Evaluate visually planting material. Damaged roots, if any, are pruned to healthy areas. This improves survival.
4. A seedling is placed on a hill, the roots should be freely located on the soil, not pressed against the edges of the pit. There should be no voids between the central lower part of the root adjacent to the trunk and the ground.
5. It is more convenient to plant together: one person holds the plant by the stem, the other pours earth on top of the roots. So it is possible to give the plum trunk a vertical position and gently fill the space between the roots with soil.
6. Sprinkling the roots with a small layer of soil, the seedling is slightly shaken. So the earth is distributed between the roots denser.
7. A layer of soil is poured above ground level, after watering the sediment will level the surface.
8. Watering is carried out carefully so as not to expose the roots. It is better to water around the perimeter of the pit, the water will be absorbed evenly.
9. It is good to mulch the near-stem zone with last year's leaf, straw, improvised material. This will retain moisture, reducing evaporation, and protect the roots from possible frosts.

If it was not possible to dig and fill the landing hole in the fall, in the spring they prepare it two weeks before the planned planting.

Landing pattern

When planting several trees or laying a garden, the planting pattern is chosen according to the characteristics of the variety.

Tall plums are placed four meters in a row. You can reduce the distance to three, focusing on the size of the site, the number of trees.

between rows tall plums distance according to the standard scheme is 5 meters. You can - 4 meters, according to the conditions.

Modern varieties of low plums are more compact: a meter closer than tall plums, both in a row of trees and in the aisle.

Seedling care

The period of adaptation of the tree will require special attention. Observe and note:

• Whether the kidneys start growing in time. This is monitored regardless of the planting season.
• Has the trunk circle dried up;
• The appearance of pests - young trees are the first to suffer from them.

Otherwise, growing plums does not require special care at first.

With a properly filled planting pit for a year, four top dressings are not needed.

You will need watering, pruning, loosening the soil. Possibly mulching.

Watering and fertilizing

Everyone knows that the main thing in care is watering, and it is also necessary for draining.

High-quality moistening up to 40 cm depth will be optimal.

In the first half of summer, 5 buckets per tree will become the norm, the amount of water is increased during the fruiting period of the plum, but not excessively, otherwise there is a risk of fungal infection.

Mineral fertilizers will come in handy in the third or fourth year from the moment of planting, so potassium and phosphorus are added to the soil in the autumn digging.

Use in spring and after flowering nitrogen fertilizers, and by mid-June, an infusion of cow dung is introduced (in the near-stem circles - for young trees, for adults - throughout the planting area).

Nitrogen, potassium, magnesium help to ensure good fruiting and stable growth, so they should be used for both root and foliar feeding.

For example, nitrogen in the form of saltpeter or urea can be applied to the leaves by spraying if they turn pale.

With brown and twisting leaves, granular potassium and magnesium can be added to the soil.

crown formation

Pruning plums is easy. The conductor - the central trunk - is always in the lead, it is left above the other branches.

Competitive branches are best removed or severely shortened. Remove the completely cut branch “to zero”, without hemp.

Stone fruits are prone to fungal diseases. The spores of the fungus are introduced precisely through the wounds on the stumps.

Lateral branches are shortened at the end of the first or beginning of the second season. The plum tends to grow quickly, cutting off the ends will force it to branch.

Without pruning, most plums "drive" vertical branches to a greater height.

After a couple of years without care (pruning), no ladder will help to get fruits that have ripened at a height of many meters.

When cutting out the extra branches that thicken the crown, free the tree from uncomfortable ones.

Uncomfortable:

• Growing vertically (tops) - they are barren or barren;
• Departing at an excessively sharp angle from the central trunk;
• Growing horizontally or at a large (greater than 50°) angle;
• Crowns directed inward;
• Growing in the direction of the paths, they will interfere with walking through the garden.

It is desirable to direct the skeletal branches along the rows, this will facilitate the care of the plum.

Every year during the growth season, “hold” the lush growth in height.

Do not allow strong pruning: the longer the cut fragment of the branch, the stronger the branching on the remaining part.

More thinning work means more injury to the tree and wasted gardener time.

growth

Stone fruit crops, having taken root, quickly develop new territory. Lateral roots actively expel shoots.

If this is not checked, a few years will turn the garden into an impenetrable plum thicket.

Gardeners are struggling with an undesirable phenomenon. If the variety is own-rooted (without grafting), the plum can be safely propagated by the vegetative method.

The shoots are dug up, the roots are cut, planting is carried out. Valuable varieties are sold.

Varieties obtained in nurseries through grafting cannot be propagated in this way. Everything that comes from the root is not varietal.

Therefore, it is cut down or dug out.

To facilitate the laborious work, the shoots are not allowed to grow. Along the perimeter of the near-trunk circle in the projection of the crown, they dig in material impermeable to the roots:

• Plastic;
• Metal;
• Slate;
• Rubber.

They select what is available, connect the fantasy. The roots lie shallow, you can block the road.

Take the trouble once - get rid of the need to dig up shoots annually throughout the site.

Deepen the material by thirty centimeters: the roots are superficial. Leave a small edge at the top.

Weeding

Weeding is minimal. The first year is manual. Tools can accidentally damage delicate roots.

In subsequent periods, weed the surface layer, preferably with a flat cutter. At the same time, the soil is loosened, “closing of moisture” occurs.

The term means the destruction of the crust, the network of cracks on it. This prevents moisture from evaporating actively, keeps it at the roots.

In the aisles, you can even walk with a walk-behind tractor (cultivator). Plum care of this kind will endure without problems.

Harvesting

Plum is a juicy fruit. It must be picked slightly unripe. Otherwise, it will wrinkle, the skin will burst.

Small trees are much easier to maintain. Special fixtures not necessary: ​​buckets, baskets, fruit boxes, and the working hands of a gardener.

Add a ladder to this set if the varieties are tall.

The fruit should be picked carefully, trying not to damage the skin and even the protective whitish coating on it.

Then the plum will lie longer. You will have time to process or transport it without loss.

Plum propagation methods

First of all, let's say right away that the reproduction of this tree, regardless of the variety, occurs vegetatively, that is, through cuttings, root growth and plum seedlings.

Seeds can only be used to get a rootstock - a tree, which is then grafted onto.

How and why to grow a rootstock?

If you need a rootstock, start preparing the seeds:

• need to be selected the best fruits, peel the pulp, rinse under running water and soak for 4 days, changing the water and stirring the "bones";
• dry future seeds thoroughly;
• store them until planting time in a glass container;
• for a sufficient period before planting (it will be 180 days), stratify the seeds - keep in a humid environment, it can be sand or wood chips in temperature regime from -10 to +10С;
• plant in the ground either in autumn or with the onset of stable spring weather (this is usually done at the end of April);
• when planting, maintain the correct distances - between seedlings they should be 10 cm, between rows - 70 cm, with a planting depth of 70 cm.

In order for the grafting to be successful, it would be better for you to take winter-hardy varieties of thorns or plums as a rootstock.

The stock should grow within 1 year, after this period, you can graft.

Graft

Vaccination is performed during the period when the movement of juice is actively proceeding, this is:

1. Spring: mid-April - mid-May;
2. Summer: mid-July - mid-August.

Spring is more suitable for grafting cuttings, and buds are grafted in summer.

Root growth

We have already talked about coppice reproduction. It is suitable only as a clone, vegetative.

Horizontal roots with many small lateral roots (or even without them) take root almost one hundred percent.

A proven good variety can be propagated quickly and successfully. Make money on sales or endow all your relatives, neighbors, acquaintances with your favorite plums.

The method is economical, not expensive, fast. Well suited for yellow plums: they do not let down the taste, size and beauty of the fruit. Transportable if harvested on time.

Late pink plum shoots give less, but they also reproduce successfully.

With the forthcoming transportation of seedlings for sale and their possible storage until sale, dip the roots, protecting them from evaporation, drying out, in a clay mash.

But even wrapped in a damp cloth, “naked”, free from earth, the roots will remain viable.

You can transport seedlings to any region suitable for their climate.

There are cases of successful rooting and cultivation of a southerner - a yellow plum in the Moscow region.

Experiment, keep it up. Fortune favors the brave.

If the variety is grafted, the shoots will not convey the characteristics of the variety, the result of the gardener will be disappointing.

root cuttings

You can also take root cuttings for propagation.

The stalk is mined like this - the root is dug up at a distance of a meter from the trunk of a young plum, or one and a half meters - from the trunk of an adult; the thickness of the root should be approximately 1.5 cm, and the length - 15.

It is chopped off and stored in a trench covered with peat and river sand, mixed in equal proportions.

Its depth should be at least 0.5 m, but you can also use the basement, where you have to create suitable conditions for the handle with moss and wet sawdust.

These measures are useful if the stalk is cut off in the fall, and if in the spring, then you can place it in the ground, under the film, when peat is added to the soil in a ratio of 1: 3.

Position the cutting vertically or obliquely.

Plum cuttings will require careful care - when planting, it is important to observe intervals of 5 cm between units, and keep the rows 10 cm apart.

The depth of the soil cover will be 5 cm, but it is better to deepen the upper ends by a couple of centimeters, mulch, that is, sprinkle them (peat or sawdust is suitable).

You need to keep them in the shade, do not let them dry out until shoots appear.

If there are several shoots on one cutting, then the strongest should be left.

organic fertilizers(slurry, for example) will be useful if you feed several times a season.

It is time to repot the stalk that has escaped will come by next winter, and it will be possible to go to the garden when it reaches a height of 1.5 m.

But not all gardeners can and love to grow their seedlings and, therefore, it is sometimes easier to visit a nursery and choose the right variety. Get what you want, refresh your knowledge.

And then planting a plum, growing it, will not be excessive work. And the result will be expected and will definitely please.

Blooming but not fruiting

And sometimes it happens that way, plum trees bloom profusely, then ovaries appear, which fall en masse without bearing fruit. For this reason, gardeners even uproot healthy trees. What to do in this case?

Let's consider all the reasons for the poor harvest of plums: from the choice of variety to agricultural technology and climatic conditions.

1. Most varieties require pollination, as they are self-infertile. Each variety has its own “fellow traveler”: they must grow close to each other. The symbiosis of two varieties - "Annushki" and "Skoroplodnaya" - will give a high yield. When a "pair" is not identified by breeders, you will have to plant a "curtain" of several varieties of fruit trees. You can cooperate with neighboring trees by planting your plums near the fence. Cross-pollination by insects is reduced in cold or rainy weather - you will not wait for the harvest.
2. A phenomenon known to biologists as a physiological carrion: the tree does not have enough nutrition for all the fruit that has set. common cause defects in the root system are considered. Alas, it is impossible to fix this, but due to the correct formation of the crown, amateur gardeners still increase the yield.
3. Bacterial diseases of trees can often be observed in plums - this is the result of a careless attitude towards gardeners. Carrion from under the crown and fallen leaves must not only be removed, but also taken out of the garden. The crown of trees must be regularly treated against gray rot and pathogenic fungi. One percent Bordeaux liquid, applied three times, with an interval of two weeks, successfully copes with infectious diseases of stone fruits.
4. Insect pests can significantly reduce the yield. The most common are plum sawfly, codling moth and caterpillar-thick-legged. Apply agricultural practices (loosening, hilling), put trapping belts. So you protect your garden without chemicals.
5. Weather and climatic conditions determine the future harvest. On young shoots after winter, you can see traces of frost damage. Clean these places, treat with garden pitch. But amateurs cannot fight with the sterilization of pollen. It is caused by a strong cold wind during flowering. AT northern latitudes the tree does not have enough heat, drought threatens the seedlings in the south, the middle lane is recognized as the best for growing plums.
6. Non-compliance with the conditions and place of landing. Seedlings love neutral soils, sunny areas of the garden that are not shaded by large trees, where there are no "foreign" roots.

Now that you know the causes of plum failure, you can weigh your options and desire to select a few plum trees for your new garden, knowing their characteristics.

Finishing the article, I want to invite you to watch videos about planting plums and pruning them.

See you soon, dear readers!

tags: plum

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Plum - planting and care: pruning and grafting

Plum (lat. Prunus) is a genus of tree-like plants of the Rosaceae family, which includes about 250 species growing in the Northern Hemisphere. Plum is a natural hybrid of cherry plum and blackthorn. Plums were cultivated in ancient Egypt, in the 5th-6th centuries BC. And the Syrians, long before our era, knew how to cook prunes from it, which they traded with other countries. According to legend, the Roman commander Pompey brought plums to Europe from Damascus. In Rome, the best varieties of plums were considered walnut and damask. And during the Crusades, other excellent varieties came to Europe, including Renklod, named after Claude, daughter of Louis XII. The type of home plum, which will be discussed today, comes from the Caucasus.

Plum is a tree up to 15 m high with an ovoid crown, the productive age of which is 10-15 years, but it can live up to a quarter of a century. Early-fruiting varieties begin to bear fruit in the second or third year after planting, late-fruiting varieties - only in the sixth or seventh. The root system of the plum is pivotal, most of the roots lie at a depth of 20-40 cm. The leaves of the plum are simple, short-petiolate, alternate, obovate or elliptical in shape, with a serrated or crenate edge, pubescent from the bottom of the leaf plate. The length of the leaves is from 4 to 10 cm, the width is from 2 to 5. Flower buds give from one to three white flowers with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm. The plum fruit is purple, yellow, light green, red, or blue-black with with a bluish bloom, a drupe with a stone flattened and pointed on both sides. The shape of the fetus can be round or elongated. The genus Plum also includes cherry, sweet cherry, bird cherry, almond, apricot and peach fruit trees.

Plum planting

When to plant a plum.

In regions with a cool climate, plums are planted in the spring, in April, before the buds begin to open. In warmer areas, plums can be planted in the fall, in mid-September, so that it has time to take root before frost. But if you purchased plum seedlings later, in October or November, dig them in the garden until spring and cover them with spruce branches from frost, laying them with needles up so that mice do not get to the seedlings. When it snows, throw a snowdrift on the spruce branches. In the spring, as soon as the buds begin to bloom, dig up the seedlings and plant them in a hole prepared in the fall.

Planting plum trees in autumn.

If your area has mild winters, you can plant trees in the fall, but you need to prepare the site for planting in advance. Even if you purchased a seedling of a self-fertile plum, it is still desirable that a pair of plums of a different variety grow nearby - such a neighborhood contributes to consistently high fruiting.

The drain pit is prepared two weeks before planting. Plum grows on any soil except acidic, but the groundwater on the site should lie no higher than one and a half meters deep. Choose a sunny, draft- and cold-wind location for plum trees, facing south, southwest, or west. Dig the area to the depth of the bayonet and, if the soil is acidic, add a deoxidizer for digging - dolomite flour or ash at the rate of 600-800 g per m². Then dig a hole at least 60 cm deep and about 70 cm in diameter, discarding the top, fertile soil layer in one direction, and the lower, infertile soil in the other. In the bottom of the hole in the center, drive a landing stake so long that it rises above the surface of the site by at least half a meter. At the bottom of the pit, pour a mound of fertile soil, mixed in equal parts with humus or peat.

Now let's talk about the requirements for seedlings. A seedling with a fresh, not overdried root system is considered good. If the roots are slightly weathered, soak them for several hours in water before planting. The plum bark should be undamaged, and the trunk should be in excellent condition. The trunk of the plum should not have bifurcations.

Plum planting in autumn is carried out as follows: a one-year-old seedling is placed on an earthen mound, poured around a peg, its roots are carefully straightened and covered with earth from the top layer of soil mixed with organic fertilizers so that no voids remain. When planting, the root neck of the seedling should be 3-4 cm above the surface level. After planting, water the seedling with two or three buckets of water, and when it is absorbed, the soil will settle and the root neck will be at the level of the surface of the site, mulch the near-stem circle with peat.

How to plant a plum in the spring.

Planting a plum in spring differs from autumn only in that, in addition to organic matter, it is necessary to add the entire set of mineral fertilizers to the fertile planting mixture, including nitrogen fertilizers, which are not applied to the soil during autumn planting. The fertile soil layer is mixed at a ratio of 1: 1 with humus or compost, 200-300 g of superphosphate, 40-60 g of potassium salt and 300-400 g of wood ash are added to it, thoroughly mixed and the roots of the seedling are covered with this planting mixture. Plums are planted at a distance of 3-4 meters from each other. It is best to plant two plum trees at once of varieties that bloom at about the same time. If cherry plum grows nearby, it will be enough as a pollinator. As we already wrote, they carry out spring planting before the start of sap flow.

plum care

How to properly care for plums? Planting and caring for a plum will not seem difficult if you know exactly what and when to do: how to fertilize a plum in spring, summer and autumn, how to graft a plum onto a root shoot, and how to process a plum that is sick. For the convenience of perceiving information, we have divided the section "Growing plums" into seasons.

Plum care in spring.

At the very beginning of spring, to attract birds to the garden that will help you fight harmful insects, hang birdhouses on the trees. In mid-March, you can start pruning plums. In April, the soil in near-trunk circles and row-spacing is dug up with nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 100-200 g of calcium nitrate or urea for young trees older than one year and 300-400 g for plums that have come into bearing. When digging, try not to damage the roots of the tree: dig no deeper than 5-10 cm around the stem itself. Plum in the spring needs preventive treatment from pests and pathogens that have overwintered in the bark of trees or in the soil of the trunk circle. If the temperature drops to 1 ºC, you will have to burn smoke piles at night, stopping smoking only two hours after sunrise. In dry spring, plums are watered at the rate of 3-6 buckets per tree. At the end of May, the trees are fed with organic matter, and after that the site is mulched with sawdust or peat. Trunk circles are kept clean, regularly removing root shoots.

Plum care in summer.

Plums in summer, after flowering, need to be fertilized with organic and mineral fertilizers in the same proportions as in spring. In dry weather, watering is carried out. At the end of summer, the plum begins to bear fruit, so be prepared to harvest and process the crop.

Plum care in autumn.

In September, the collection of plums continues, and after that, water-charging irrigation is carried out as a preparation for wintering. If you keep the soil in an area under fallow, it is necessary to dig it up in the trunk circles and in the aisles, while removing and burning the fallen leaves. How to feed the plum, after harvesting, so that it can restore its strength and prepare for winter and fruiting next year? Under digging, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied under each tree, carrying out the last feeding in the current year. What it consists of, read in the appropriate section. The stems and bases of the skeletal branches are cleaned of dead bark, lichens and moss, the wounds found are cleaned, they are treated with a solution of copper or iron sulfate, and then with garden pitch. The stems and bases of the branches are whitened with a solution of lime with the addition of copper sulfate, after which the plums are prepared for wintering.

Plum processing.

The first preventive treatment of plums is carried out in the spring, before the start of sap flow - in late March or early April. Plums are treated with a solution of 700 g of urea in 10 liters of water. As a result, pests and pathogens that survived after the winter are destroyed, and the plants receive the first nitrogen supplement this year. But if you do not have time to treat the trees with urea before bud break, then you will have to use Fitoverm, Agravertin, Akarin, Iskra-bio or other preparations of a similar action. After this treatment, spray the trees with a solution of Ecoberin or Zircon to increase the resistance of plants to weather changes and diseases. The same preventive treatments are carried out in October before preparing the plum for wintering.

Watering plums.

Such plum watering is considered sufficient, in which the soil is moistened to a depth of 40 cm. During the growing season, depending on the amount of precipitation, the soil around the plums is moistened from 3 to 5 times, pouring under young trees from 4 to 6, and under fruit-bearing up to 10 buckets of water for one watering. In autumn, winter watering is necessarily carried out, charging the soil with moisture until spring and increasing the frost resistance of trees.

Plum feed.

Fertilization is combined with loosening the soil around the trees. Organic fertilizers are applied once every three to four years at the rate of 10-12 kg per m², and mineral fertilizers are applied once every 2-3 years, with nitrogen fertilizers only in the spring, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers are preferably applied in the fall. In the first and fourth years after planting, 120-180 g of superphosphate, 40-50 g of potassium salt and 60-90 g of ammonium nitrate are added per m² of land for digging. For 5-8 years, this rate is doubled.

Plum winter.

Like any other garden trees, an adult plum hibernates without shelter. It is only necessary to mulch the trunk circle with peat or humus. Young trees for the winter must either be tied with spruce branches or wrapped in burlap. Do not use artificial covering material for wrapping, because the seedlings will melt under it.

plum pruning

When to prune a plum.

The formation of plum pruning is carried out most often in the spring, before the start of sap flow. Popular is the sparse-tiered form of the crown on a trunk with a height of at least 40 cm. Pruning begins from the second year after planting, since the plum grows intensively in the first years of life. The crown is formed within five years.

How to cut a plum.

In the year of planting, the plum is not cut, but next spring on it form the lower tier of 5-7 skeletal branches at an equal distance from one another, directed in different sides with an angle of departure from the trunk of 45 º. They begin to form a tier, stepping up the trunk from the surface of the plot 45-50 cm, and the branches that grow below this mark are removed. Branches above the trunk, which are at an angle of less than 40º, should also not be left - they can break off during fruiting. Skeletal branches are shortened by a third of the length, and the rest are cut into a ring, leaving no stumps. The conductor is shortened so that the height of a one-year-old tree is 1.5-1.8 cm.

In the third year, the conductor is shortened 30-40 cm above the upper branch - this measure is necessary in order for the conductor to grow straight. The growths of the continuation of the branches, which are extended by more than 60 cm, are cut to a third or a quarter of the length, and the side shoots up to 15 cm are cut into a bud oriented downwards. Skeletal branches of the second order are formed at a distance of 50 cm from the trunk, the distance between the skeletal branches of the second order, located on the skeletal branch of the first order, must be at least 30 cm.

In the fourth year, the guide is cut so that it is 6 buds longer than the skeletal branches. The conductor is trimmed until it reaches a height of 2.5 m, after which only a new growth is removed annually. Responsibly treat the formation of the top, removing all improperly growing shoots in time: the plum crown should have a pyramidal shape, therefore, with the entry into fruiting, the guide is cut off at the level of the upper lateral skeletal branch. Last year's increments are shortened to stimulate the development of new increments next year.

After four years, when the crown as a whole is formed, pruning stimulates the growth of new fruit branches, which give the bulk of the crop. The fruits are obtained on young fruit wood of two to three years of age. Four-year-old branches that yielded last year are pruned. If this is done systematically, then a total rejuvenating pruning of an aging tree will not have to be done.

Pruning is carried out with sharp tools, all cuts are treated with garden pitch.

Plum pruning in spring.

Spring is the best time to prune plums, and the best time is late March or early April. It is in the spring that they make sanitary pruning of branches broken and frostbitten during the winter and form a plum crown. The formation of tiers provides for such an event as bending branches: the skeletal branch of the plum is tied with twine and pulled down from the trunk at an angle of 50-60 º so that it does not form an arc when deflected. The lower end of the twine is fixed at the base of the trunk. Rubber is placed under the attachment of the twine to a branch or trunk so as not to injure the bark of the tree. Bending back the branches of the plum allows you to speed up the entry of the tree into fruiting by 2-3 years. If the procedure is carried out later than in April, then its result will affect only next year.

Summer pruning.

Since the young plum grows intensively and tends to thicken the crown, its formation is carried out as needed throughout the growing season. The best time for summer pruning - the end of June. Lateral shoots of the youngest trees are shortened by 20 cm, premature shoots by 15 cm. The central conductor is not cut in summer. At this time, the branches frostbitten in winter are already clearly visible - they are cut to a healthy tissue. Remove and shoots thickening the crown.

Plum pruning in autumn.

Autumn sanitary pruning is carried out after the leaves fall - from about mid-September. Remove dry, diseased and broken branches, shorten the central conductor if it is too long during the growing season. Then cut out fast-growing shoots and shoots-competitors, thickening the crown. Cut branches and shoots must be burned. This pruning is relevant for areas with warm, mild winters, in cooler areas it is better to postpone pruning to spring.

Plum propagation

How to propagate plum.

Plum is propagated by seeds, shoots, green or root cuttings and grafting, but vegetative propagation methods are much simpler and more reliable than seed. We will tell you how to grow a plum from a cutting and from a stone, how to use root shoots to propagate a plum, and also introduce you to all methods of plum grafting - a bud, budding, cuttings, splitting and bark.

Propagation of plums by root offspring.

This is the fastest and easiest way to propagate a crop that produces abundant root shoots. Since you still have to remove root suckers that clog the tree's trunk circle, why not try to grow a new tree out of them? Select a developed offspring at a distance from the plum, dig out its root and chop it off. mother plant at a distance of 20 cm from the stem. Dig up the sprout, and in order not to introduce an infection, treat the cut of the root with garden pitch and plant the sprout in a permanent place. If the plum does not yet have large, developed offspring, and you dug up a thin twig, plant it for a year in a nursery for growing.

Propagation of plums by seeds.

This method may be useful to you to grow a rootstock for varietal grafting. The bone is wrapped in gauze or cloth and placed in the refrigerator from mid-autumn to early March for stratification. In March, the bone is planted in a pot. When it sprouts, they take care of it, as they usually take care of seedlings - water and feed. In the autumn, when the seedling grows up, it is planted for growing in a greenhouse or in a school, and in a year it will be ready for planting in a permanent place and for grafting a varietal plum.

Plum propagation by green cuttings.

This propagation method has recently become more and more popular among amateur gardeners, as it gives quick results and has a high survival rate of young plants. However, not all varieties of plums are able to take root, and you need to choose for cuttings those that tend to form abundant root shoots. Cuttings are carried out in June, during the period of active growth of shoots. Cuttings 30-40 cm long are taken on a cloudy day from young plants, put them in water, trim the lower part of the shoot with a sharp tool, also removing the lower leaf and leaving only half of the petiole from it, and the upper cut on the cutting is made immediately above the third leaf. After that, the cuttings are tied and their lower ends are lowered overnight by 1.5 cm into the Heteroauxin solution. Since rooting must take place in greenhouse conditions, build a mini-greenhouse for cuttings. Place a mixture of peat in half with sand in a container, pour a layer of sand 1 cm thick on top, pour the substrate and compact it slightly. The cuttings are deepened to the petiole of the removed leaf at an angle of 45 º at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other, the gap between the rows is kept within 5 cm. The planted cuttings are covered with a transparent dome and placed in a bright place, shading if necessary from straight lines. sun rays. The cuttings are watered through a divider, a month after planting, fertilizing is carried out with a solution of 30 g of nitrogen fertilizer in 10 liters of water or a weak solution of slurry. As soon as the cuttings take root, the dome is removed. To keep the cuttings until spring, they are dug up at the end of September, their roots are covered with wet moss, wrapped in foil and sent for storage in a barn or laid in a trench dug in the garden, and covered with sawdust, moss or fallen leaves from above. In the spring, the cuttings are planted in the ground and grown for two years before being planted in a permanent place.

Plum propagation by root petioles.

Root cuttings are cut in spring or autumn from shoots located at a distance of at least a meter from the mother tree. First, shoots are dug out along with the roots, and then cuttings up to 15 cm long and about 1.5 cm in diameter are cut from them. If it is autumn in the yard, put the cuttings in a box, sprinkle them with sand and store at a temperature of 0-2 ºC until spring. Root cuttings are planted in early May in the same way as green ones: at an angle, at a distance of up to 10 cm from each other and under a transparent cap. All further actions are carried out in the same way and at the same time as when propagating plums with green cuttings.

Plum propagation by grafting.

To carry out the propagation of plums by the method of grafting, two components are needed - a graft and a stock. The rootstock can be grown from the seed itself, or the root offspring of an adult plum can be used as this, which is dug up, separated from the mother plant and planted. As a raw material for the stock, you can use the root growth of such varieties of plums as Skorospelka red, Moskovskaya, Renklod kolkhozny, Ugorka, Eurasia 21 - they are quite winter-hardy. You can graft varietal grafts on the stock of cherry plum, thorn, blackthorn or felt cherry.

Kidney vaccination. The rootstock is watered abundantly to increase sap flow, which will make it easy to separate the bark from the wood. The bole is wiped with a damp cloth or sponge, and all leaves are removed from the scion, leaving only the remains of petioles half a centimeter long. On the stock, 4 cm above the root neck, a T-shaped incision is made with a budding knife, and the cut bark is bent. A bud with a strip of bark 3 cm long and half a centimeter wide is cut from a varietal scion, inserted into a T-shaped incision with wood to wood, the bark is pressed tightly and the grafting site is tied with a grafting film, tape or a piece of polyethylene, without covering the bud with a film.

Budding for example. If the weather is dry and the bark does not bend well, use the butt budding method. An incision in the bark 7 cm long is made on the stock with a thin layer of wood captured. At the cutting, an oblique lower cut is made of the same length as on the stock, but with a ledge immediately below the bud, which is inserted under the bark of the stock with wood to wood, after which the grafting site is tied with budding film or polyethylene so that the scion bud remains open. After three weeks, the film is removed, and upper part the stock is cut or cut in early spring, leaving a spike about 15 cm long above the bud. It is possible to bud with two buds, placing one at a height of 4 cm above the surface of the site, and the second 7 cm above the first.

Grafting cuttings. In summer or spring, plum cuttings are grafted. Make an oblique cut on the rootstock 2.5 cm long and 1.5 cm deep, capturing the wood. On a fresh varietal cutting, make an oblique cut of the same length and insert it into the notch on the stock with a cut to the outgoing part of the split. Wrap the grafting site with budding film and monitor the condition of the cutting: when you are sure that it has taken root, you can remove the film.

Split grafting. Cut off the stem of the rootstock, make a split 3 cm deep in the center of the cut, make two lower cuts on the handle to make a wedge, insert this wedge into the split of the stock and wrap the grafting site with film and polyethylene.

Bark vaccination. During the period of active sap flow, when the bark lags well behind the wood, two or three notches of the bark are made from top to bottom from the saw cut of the rootstock trunk, the bark is bent in these places and a cut obliquely cut varietal cutting with three buds is inserted into each split with a cut to the stock wood, after which the place vaccinations are fixed with a film, tape or electrical tape.

The “split” and “behind the bark” method implies the possibility of grafting several scions on one rootstock - the number of grafted varietal cuttings depends on the thickness of the rootstock. The film is removed in a month.

plum diseases

Unfortunately, there are many diseases that can affect a plum tree. Some diseases are common to all stone fruits, and some plums are more likely to get sick. Plum in the garden is affected by clasterosporia or perforated spotting, moniliosis or gray rot, gommosis or gum disease, rust, fruit rot, coccomycosis, sooty fungus, root cancer, marsupial disease and milky sheen.

Clasterosporiasis is a fungal disease that can affect leaves and branches, and plum blossoms risk buds and flowers. The disease begins with the appearance on the plum leaves of brown spots with a darker border, turning first into ulcers, and then into holes. The fruits are affected to the very bone and become ugly. The disease progresses in rainy weather.

Control measures. Thin out the crown regularly, avoiding its thickening. In autumn, after leaf fall, remove and burn all the leaves, and dig up the soil in the area. Remove and destroy all affected parts of the plant. 2-3 weeks after flowering, treat the plum with a one percent solution of Bordeaux liquid or a solution of copper oxychloride at the rate of 30-40 g per 10 liters of water.

Moniliosis is also a fungal disease that affects flowers, fruits, leaves, ovaries and branches of fruit trees. The fruits become brown and soft, gray pillows with fungus spores form on them. The disease is activated in the spring, it develops especially quickly in rainy weather.

Control measures. Collect and destroy all affected fruits, remove dead branches. Before flowering, treat the trees with Nitrafen, iron or copper sulphate, or one percent Bordeaux mixture. Immediately after flowering, carry out a second treatment with Bordeaux liquid or a solution of drugs such as Phthalan, Cuprozan, Captan, copper oxychloride or other fungicides.

Gommosis (gum disease) can appear on any stone fruit tree. The affected plant begins to secrete a colorless or yellowish drying resin from wounds on the bark. Branches that flow with gum dry and die. This phenomenon occurs from sunburn, damage to the bark and wood, as well as from excess moisture and nitrogen in the soil. The most dangerous gum disease is in the cold season, and more often it affects trees weakened by excessive pruning or pests. Bark impregnated with gum becomes a favorable environment for the development of bacteria, cancer causing trunk and branches. With a strong gum disease, the plum dries and dies.

Control measures. Avoid mechanical damage to the trunk and branches of the plum, and if they appear, immediately clean the wound and disinfect it with a one percent solution of copper sulphate, and then treat it with petralatum. Severely affected branches should be cut down. The dead bark on the trunk is peeled off, and the wound under it is rubbed three times with an interval of 10 minutes with leaves. horse sorrel, after which they cover it with garden pitch.

Rust is also a fungal disease. It affects plum leaves and is especially active in July: convex red or brown spots appear on the upper side of the leaf plate, gradually increasing in size. Sick trees become weak, their winter hardiness decreases, and the leaves fall prematurely.

Control measures. Remove fallen leaves from the site in a timely manner, before flowering, treat the plum with a solution of 40 g of copper oxychloride in 5 liters of water, spending 3 liters per tree. After harvesting, the affected plum is treated with one percent Bordeaux liquid.

Fruit rot affects both stone fruits and pome trees - cherries, sweet cherries, apricots, quince, peach, apple, pear and others. The first signs of the disease can be seen in mid-July, during the period of fruit filling: first, brown spots appear on them, which gradually increase, then grayish pads with fungus spores appear on the fruits, located in concentric circles.

Control measures. Affected fruits are collected and destroyed, but try not to touch healthy fruits at the same time, so as not to transfer pathogens to them. Treat the plum with 1% Bordeaux liquid.

Coccomycosis is one of the most dangerous fungal diseases that affects not only leaves, but sometimes fruits and young shoots. In mid-summer, red-brown or purple-violet spots can be found on the surface of the leaves, which grow over time, merging with each other. On the underside of diseased leaves, a light pink coating of fungal spores forms. As a result of the disease, the cold resistance of the plum decreases, the leaves turn yellow, turn brown and fall off, and the fruits stop developing, become watery, and then dry up.

Control measures. Destroy fallen leaves, dig up the soil in autumn, after harvesting, treat the plum with a solution of 30-40 g of copper oxychloride in 10 liters of water or one percent Bordeaux liquid.

Sooty fungus appears as a black coating on plum leaves. It can be easily erased. This plaque makes it difficult for light and oxygen to reach the plant cells, which makes photosynthesis difficult.

Control measures. Find out the cause of the blackening. It may be excessive soil moisture or crown thickening. Eliminate the cause, and only after that treat the drain with a copper-soap solution (5 g of copper sulfate and 150 g of soap in 10 liters of water). Copper sulphate can be replaced with Bordeaux liquid or copper oxychloride.

Marsupial disease is also caused by a fungus. It appears after the flowering of the plum, affecting and disfiguring its fruits: they grow, do not form stones, and are covered with a powdery-wax coating containing spores of the fungus.

Control measures. Cut out branches affected by the fungus in a timely manner so that the disease does not spread to healthy parts of the plum. Harvest diseased fruits and burn them. During the period when plum buds acquire a pinkish hue and immediately after flowering, treat the tree with one percent Bordeaux liquid.

Root cancer is manifested by growths on the roots and root collar of the plum, caused by bacteria living in the soil that have penetrated the roots through cracks and wounds. An adult plum stops growing, seedlings do not take root and die. The disease progresses in drought, especially in neutral and slightly alkaline soil.

Control measures. Do not plant seedlings in places where cancer-affected plants have previously been found. Treat garden tools with a solution of formalin or chloramine. If growths are found on the roots, remove them, and disinfect the root system with a one percent solution of copper sulphate.

Milky sheen is a widespread dangerous disease that affects many fruit crops and leads to the death of trees. The leaves of the affected plant become silvery white, holes form in them, the leaf tissue dies off, the bark of the tree darkens. Most often, the disease destroys young trees frozen in winter.

Control measures. When preparing the garden for winter, treat the stems and bases of skeletal branches with a solution of lime. In early spring, carry out preventive treatment of trees from fungal diseases with urea - this will simultaneously strengthen the immunity of the plum to diseases and nourish the plant with nitrogen. Remove and burn affected branches and shoots.

In addition to the diseases described, the plum can suffer from brown spot, witch's broom, mushroom burn, dwarfism, mosaic disease, smallpox and dying off of branches.

plum pests

Enemies among insects in plum trees also abound. The most active among them are hawthorn, cherry shoot moth, cherry slimy sawfly, goldtail, plum and apple codling moths, ringed silkworm, pollinated plum aphids and apple comma-shaped scale insects.

Apple comma-shaped scab spreads along the bark of trees, sticks to shoots and young branches and freezes, covered with a shield. Trees occupied by scale insects are depleted and die.

Control measures. During the period of dormant buds, treat the trees and soil in the near-trunk circles with Nitrafen (200-300 g per 10 liters of water), and immediately after flowering, the plum should be treated with a ten percent solution of Karbofos.

Plum pollinated aphids are very common in gardens. It damages blackthorn, peach, almond, apricot and plum, lives in huge colonies, covering the underside of the leaves with a thick layer, which causes them to curl up and dry, and the affected fruits begin to rot. In addition, aphid excrement is a favorable environment for soot fungus.

Control measures. The treatment of plums from aphids of this species is as follows: in early spring, trees are treated with Nitrafen, and at the time of bud opening and after flowering, with a ten percent solution of Karbofos or Benzophosphate. Make sure that root shoots do not grow around the tree.

Apple codling moth. The caterpillars of this butterfly feed on fruits, eating out the seeds, and mask the moves made with food waste glued together with cobwebs.

Control measures. Collect and destroy prematurely fallen fruits, clean and disinfect the bark, two weeks after flowering, treat the tree with a 2% solution of Chlorophos or a 3% solution of Karbofos.

Hawthorn is a large butterfly with a wingspan of about 7 cm. Its caterpillar covered with thick hairs reaches a length of 45 cm and is decorated on the back with two yellow-brown stripes that stand out against a black background. It feeds on the upper side of plum leaves, as well as its buds and flowers, exposing branches, and sometimes the tree completely.

Control measures. Remove from trees and destroy hawthorn nests, collect and destroy caterpillars. In late April or early May, when the caterpillars leave their nests, and in the summer after flowering, treat the plum with a one percent solution of Aktellik, Corsair or Ambush.

Cherry shoot moth damages stone fruit crops. Its caterpillar eats away plum buds, buds and rosettes of leaves, makes passages in green shoots.

Control measures. Loosen and dig up the soil on the site regularly. Before the start of sap flow, treat the trees and the soil under them with a two to three percent solution of Nitrafen, and during the period of bud swelling, spray the plum with a ten percent solution of Karbofos.

The cherry slimy sawfly is a widespread pest that damages trees such as cherry, sweet cherry, quince, pear, plum and hawthorn. Dangerous sawfly larvae, gnawing leaves from the upper side.

Control measures. It is necessary to loosen and dig up the soil on the site, and in the case of massive occupation of the plum by sawflies, it is best to treat it with a ten percent solution of Karbofos or Trichlormetaphos-3.

Plum codling moth is dangerous not only for plums, but also for peach, apricot, blackthorn and cherry plum. One butterfly lays up to 40 eggs in green fruits, and the caterpillars that appear from them eat away the pulp of the fruits, come out of them and crawl away to wintering places. Drops of gum appear on spoiled fruits, they acquire a purple hue and fall off.

Control measures. The caterpillars must be harvested by hand, and the plum during the appearance of the caterpillars, and then after another two weeks, they are treated with a ten percent solution of Benzophosphate or Karbofos.

The ringed silkworm is a night butterfly. Its caterpillar eats the leaves and buds of trees, weaving spider web nests in the forks of the branches.

Control measures. Remove all winter nests from the plum, destroy the oviposition, and treat the tree during bud break and at the time the caterpillars appear with infusions of chamomile, tobacco or wormwood. Of the biological preparations, the treatment of trees with Antobacterin or Dendrobacellin in accordance with the instructions gives good results.

Goldentail - white butterfly with a wingspan of up to 5 cm. Its greenish caterpillars feed on the pulp of leaves from the upper side of the plate and, with the help of cobwebs, make nests from the remains of the leaves, in which they hibernate.

Control measures. Winter nests are destroyed, and trees are treated with a three percent solution of Karbofos before flowering.

In addition to the pests described, from time to time the plum has to be saved from the apple-plantain aphid, apple glass case, black plum sawfly, fruit striped moth, plum gall mite, moth peeled off, downy silkworm, subbark leafworm, fruit moth, gypsy moth, mining moth, red apple mite, goose, winter moth, western unpaired bark beetle, sapwood, pear pipeworm, eastern codling moth and brown fruit mite. Before you process a plum for pests, try to determine what kind of insect you are dealing with.

How to deal with plum

Growth is the desire of a tree to self-preserve, which is quite natural for any living organism. Most often, the growth of shoots is activated during injuries - damage to the bark or cutting branches. Another reason abundant growth root shoots may be a discrepancy between the stock and scion. In any case, the intensive growth of root shoots is a sign of unhealthy plum. The growth spoils the aesthetics of the garden, weakens the tree and reduces its ability to produce a high yield, so it must be removed. Determine and eliminate the cause of the appearance of the shoots, otherwise the growth of the shoots will not stop.

The easiest way is to cut the shoots with a pruner, but before cutting the shoot, it must be dug up to the very root and cut off at the place where it departs from the root of the mother plant, after which the hole should be covered with earth and trampled down.

Gardeners are sometimes very superstitious, and this is the recommendation we found on one forum: so that the root growth never grows again, you need to destroy it only on such days: April 3, June 22 and July 30. Use this recommendation and share the results with us.

Plum varieties

Varieties and hybrids of four types of plums grow in our gardens - domestic plum, blackthorn plum, American plum (including Canadian plum) and Chinese plum. But most often, gardeners prefer home plum varieties, which are also divided into four subspecies: thorns, renklods, mirabelles and Hungarians.

By maturity, plum varieties are divided into early, mid-season and late. Among the varieties, there are also winter-hardy and non-winter-hardy varieties, drought-resistant and moisture-loving, self-fertile and self-fertile.

Plum varieties for the Moscow region.

There are so many plum varieties that you can always choose for each region some of the most successful and adapted ones. In areas with mild warm winters, abundant and long-bearing plums are quite common, but for the climate of the Moscow Region, the requirements for fruit trees are special. the main problem when choosing varieties for the middle lane - low winter hardiness fruit crops. But thanks to the tireless work of breeders, today there are plum varieties that can be fearlessly grown in the Moscow region and even in more northern regions. So, the best plum for the Moscow region:

• - Hungarian Korneevskaya is a drought-resistant variety capable of producing consistently high yields from the age of six - forty to fifty kilograms per tree. Abundant fruiting lasts about twenty years. The fruits of this variety are purple-brown with a wax coating, medium-large in size, with juicy sweet yellow flesh. The only drawback of this variety can be considered that the branches under the weight of the fruit can break;
• - Yakhontovaya - productive drought-resistant plum up to 5 m high with a compact spherical crown, immune to fungal diseases and courageously enduring return frosts, from which flower buds of non-cold-resistant varieties often die. Bright yellow fruits of yakhontovy plum of sweet and sour taste reach 35 g in weight. They are covered with a light wax coating. From one tree you can get up to 50 kg of plums annually;
• – Kolkhoz Renklod is a frost-resistant and consistently productive early-ripening self-fertile variety with medium-sized greenish-yellow fruits with sweet and sour juicy pulp of fine taste. The variety was bred by crossing Renklod green with thorny. The plum of this variety enters fruiting in the third year. Greenclod collective farm is an excellent pollinator for other varieties of plums;
• - Smolinka is an early ripe, self-fertile, productive variety with large dark purple fruits of a very regular ovoid-oval shape, up to 35 g in weight, dessert taste with yellow flesh and a well-separated stone. Smolinka is a hybrid between Renklod Ulles and Ochakovskaya yellow varieties. As pollinators for Smolinka, varieties Superearly, Opal, Blue Gift are suitable;
• - In memory of Timiryazev - a late winter-hardy self-fertile variety that does not require the presence of other plum trees on the site. Yellow ovoid fruits with a red uneven blush weigh up to 22 g, their flesh is also yellow, not very dense, but surprisingly fragrant. However, the fruiting of this variety can be periodic.

In addition to the described varieties, the following plum varieties grow and bear fruit well in the Moscow region: Dashenka, Peresvet, Eurasia-43, Zagorsk, Kantemirovskaya, Yellow large, In memory of Finaev, Large new, ELSE-R, Skorospelka new, Tula black, Volgograd seedling, Morning , Early yellow, Volga beauty, Sissy, Red ball, Egg blue and others.

Early varieties of plums.

Early varieties include plums that ripen from late July to the end of the first decade of August. They are represented by:

• - July rose - early ripe, winter-hardy, disease-resistant, partially self-fertile variety with ovoid yellow fruits up to 35 g in weight with low-juicy pulp of medium sugar content. The stone in the fruits of this variety is not completely separated from the pulp;
• - Oda - fast-growing, fruitful, winter-hardy variety Ukrainian selection, resistant to fungal diseases, with large oval fruits of purple-brown color with delicate yellow pulp of sweet and sour spicy taste. The bone is small, it separates well. The best pollinators for Oda are the varieties Vengerka, Kirke, Ekaterina;
• – Opal is a self-fertile high-yielding dried fruit variety with rounded red fruits with dark orange dense, juicy and sweet pulp. The bone is not completely separated;
• - Record - quite winter-hardy, high-yielding, partially self-fertile variety with oval-elongated blue-violet fruits weighing up to 30 g with yellowish-green juicy, dense and aromatic pulp. In terms of taste, this is one of the best varieties of plums. Suitable pollinators for Record Red and Hungarian early ripening;
• – Alyonushka is a self-infertile, disease-resistant, rather winter-hardy plum that can tolerate cold down to -25 ºC. Fruits weighing up to 35 g are round-oval, dark red in color. The pulp is orange, juicy, crispy. The bone does not separate;
• – Renklod Karbysheva is a self-infertile variety of Ukrainian selection, obtained from varieties Persikovaya and Jefferson, pollinators for which can be trees of the varieties Hungarian Donetsk, Hungarian Donetsk early, Greenklod early. Fruits weighing up to 50 g are rounded, purple with a bluish bloom, the flesh is dark yellow, fragrant, juicy, sweet with a slight sourness.

Of interest to gardeners may be such early varieties of plums as Renklod early, Kuban early, Red ball, Golden ball, Hungarian July, Hungarian Wangenheim, Monfort, Early, Sapa, Early maturing red, Summer thorns, Kliman, Nadezhda, Zarechnaya early, Skoroplodnaya, Kyrgyz excellent, Ball, Kuban comet, Early pink, Morning and others.

Medium sized plums.

Mid-season varieties of plums ripen from August 10 to September 10. These varieties include:

• - Gigantic - a self-fertile drought-resistant variety of American selection. The fruits are large, dark purple, elongated. The greenish-yellow flesh is juicy, sweet and sour in taste;
• - Souvenir of the East - a productive, but insufficiently winter-hardy variety with large maroon heart-shaped fruits with dense, sweet pulp of spicy honey taste;
• – Hungarian Azhanskaya is a French promising high-yielding variety, resistant to fungal diseases, moisture-loving and partially self-fertile. Fruits are medium in size, ovoid, purple with a strong waxy coating. The pulp is sweet, sour, tender. The bone separates well;
• - Romaine is an unusual variety of plum with red leaves and red flesh, burgundy-colored heart-shaped fruits. Has a slight almond flavor;
• – Californian is a chlorosis-resistant, high-yielding, partially self-fertile variety of American selection. Fruits with juicy, tasty pulp medium density. The bones are not completely separated.

Popular are such mid-season varieties as Memory Vavilov, Duce, Krasa Orlovschina, Kuban legend, Hungarian Donetsk, Hungarian Belarusian, Bogatyrskaya, Vetraz, Svetlana Primorskaya, Voloshka and others.

Late varieties of plums.

Of the late-ripening varieties that ripen from the second decade of September, the most popular in amateur gardening are:

• – Stanley is a winter-hardy productive variety with dark purple fruits with a strong wax coating and a pronounced seam. The pulp is yellow, dense, average juiciness. The bone separates well;
• - Zhiguli - resistant to aphids and codling moth, winter-hardy self-fertile variety, which begins to bear fruit in the fifth year. The fruits are large - up to 31 g in weight, round-oval, blue with a bloom. The pulp is yellowish-green, juicy and tender, with a sour-sweet taste;
• – Vikana is a variety of Estonian selection, bred from the Victoria variety and the American plum. Fruits up to 24 g in weight, burgundy in color with a strong wax coating, oval. The flesh is light yellow, sweet and sour. The bone is easily separated;
• - Tula black is a fairly winter-hardy, self-fertile variety resistant to fruit rot, requiring the presence of pollinators on the site of the varieties Renklod kolkhozny, Renklod Tenkovsky, Ternosliv Dubovsky or Ternosliv Tambov. The fruits of this variety are egg-shaped, very dark blue, almost black, with a slight coating. The flesh is oily, light yellow, sweet and sour. The bone separates well;
• – Hungarian Italian – worldwide famous variety, unfortunately, affected by codling moths, sawflies and aphids, however, its large, oval dark blue, almost black fruits with a bluish bloom and greenish juicy pulp have an excellent sweet taste with a slight sourness. In addition, the bone is easily separated from the pulp;
• – Large late Hungarian is a self-fertile, productive, winter-hardy and drought-resistant variety, rarely affected by fungal diseases, with oval reddish-purple fruits with a wax coating weighing up to 40 g. The pulp is juicy, sour-sweet, tasty.

In addition to the varieties described, such late-ripening plums are popular: Vishen, Primorskaya plentiful, Svetlana, Krasnomyasaya, Canadian vision, Hungarian Pulkovskaya, Valor, Timiryazev's memory, Golden drop, Prunes 4-39 TSHA, Renklod Michurinsky, Anna Shpet, Winter Red, Winter white, Moscow Hungarian, Autumn Ternosliv, October Hungarian, Tambov Ternosliv, Dubovsky Ternosliv, Finaev's Memory, Large-fruited Tern and others.

As for such concepts as self-fertility or self-fertility, they are rather conditional and inconsistent, since the same plum variety, depending on the agro-climatic zone and growing conditions, can be self-fertile, self-fertile, and partially self-fertile. Moreover, the same tree may be self-fertile in the current year, and pollinators may be required for its fruiting in the next year. Partially self-infertile varieties - those that can bear fruit on their own, however, if there are pollinators on the site, their yield increases significantly.

plum properties

In addition to excellent taste, plum fruits have healing properties. They are saturated with vitamins, minerals and other substances necessary for the human body. The composition of the pulp includes proteins, carbohydrates, dietary fiber, free organic acids, potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, fluorine, provitamin A, vitamins B1, B2, B6, PP, C and E.

Fresh and dried plum fruits have a mild laxative effect, therefore they are recommended by doctors for intestinal atony and constipation. Plum, used in diseases of the kidneys and hypertension, cleanses the body of cholesterol. The potassium compounds contained in the fruits have a diuretic effect, relieving the body of edema and salt deposits. Plum is useful for rheumatism, metabolic disorders, gout, kidney damage, heart disease. In addition, its fruits increase appetite and improve the secretion of gastric juice.

Many gardeners do not know what to do if the plum dries. First of all, you need to find out the causes of the disease: improper care, adverse weather conditions, damage to the tree by diseases or pests. The plant can be saved subject to certain rules.

Wrong care

For the health and development of the fruit crop, it is necessary to provide the necessary and proper care.

Violation of the water balance

Plum is sensitive to watering: it does not accept drying out of the soil and excessive wetting. From a large number water, the roots do not receive oxygen and die, and nutrients do not reach the branches, leaves, fruits. With a lack of water during flowering and the formation of ovaries, the plum can drop them.

You can prevent the tree from drying out right mode watering, which is increased during the drought period (water consumption should be 10 liters per 1 m2). Planting is not carried out in places where moisture stagnates. If it needs to be taken away, special grooves are made.

decay

If on the soil surface long time under the snow, the temperature is 0 ° C, the tree spends a lot of reserves and strength to breathe. The bark is depleted, the tissues disintegrate, after the winter the plum begins to dry out.

So that the tree does not suffer due to dampening, it is worth compacting the snow around the trunk. You can shovel the snow from the plum, let the ground freeze a little and return the snow under the plant.

Freezing wood

Low temperatures are detrimental to plums. If in winter the tree froze, then in the spring there is a rapid drying out. It is no longer possible to save the plant, so it is worth paying special attention to the prevention of freezing. Actions are as follows:

• choice of variety according to climatic conditions. For regions with severe winters, the species must be hardy;
• the right choice of location. Northern slopes, low-lying areas where cold air stagnates will not work;
• proper preparation for winter. The bark should be cleaned and whitewashed with limestone mortar, cover the tree;
• in winters with little snow, they rake the snow to the trunk and trample it down. This will protect it and the roots from frost.

Diseases

Dried young shoots and leaves may indicate the development of the disease. It is worth carefully examining the plant for symptoms of diseases characteristic of the culture.

Gum treatment

Gum production is characterized by the outflow of a clear liquid from the bark of a tree, which then solidifies. So the plant reacts to damage caused by frost or sunburn, and heals itself. The causes of the disease can also be abandoned near areas or environmental violations. If you do not take action, over time the tree weakens, the branches begin to dry out. The culture becomes vulnerable to other more serious diseases.

For treatment, you need to cut the growths to healthy tissue with a knife and treat the wounds with copper sulfate or garden pitch. In case of severe damage, remove branches.

Viral diseases

The carrier of the pathogen is often aphids. Sometimes you can buy an already infected seedling. It will no longer be possible to save the plant if the leaves have wilted and the branches have dried up due to a virus infection. The tree needs to be uprooted.

Sharka (smallpox)

One of the most common diseases The carrier of the pathogen is often aphid, which affects almost all types of stone fruit crops: cherry plum, cherry, apricot, sweet cherry, etc. Symptoms: appearance on leaf plates light spots, which eventually turn yellow, and the leaves dry out. The fruits turn brown, deform, quickly fall off.

mosaic spotting

Chlorotic spots appear on the leaves, in the center of which a hole forms. Dead tissue falls off. Leaf plates become small, narrow, wrinkle.

fungal diseases

Exciters are activated when high humidity especially during rainy summers. Fungi often cause plums to dry out.

Cytosporosis

Symptoms: dots appear on the bark that resemble goose bumps, over time they turn brown. The branches in the affected areas dry out.

After the fungus enters deep into the tissue, the tree dies. To combat cytosporosis use 3% Bordeaux liquid or fungicides.

Clusterosporiasis

The second name is perforated spotting. Brown spots with a dark border appear on the leaves, in the center of which holes form. The disease also affects flowers, bark and fruits. The infection penetrates to the bone.

To overcome clasterosporiasis, damaged branches should be removed and burned. Coat the wounds with garden pitch. 2 weeks after flowering, the plant must be treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol (30 g per 10 liters of water).

Rust

Symptoms of the disease initially appear on the leaves in the form of red spots, whose size gradually increases. The tree weakens, the leaves fall. The culture becomes vulnerable to freezing, as a result of which it dries out.

Rust treatments:

• before flowering - copper sulfate (40 g per 5 liters of water), consumption per plant - 3 liters;
• after harvesting - Bordeaux liquid.

Fallen leaves should be collected and burned.

Moniliosis (gray rot)

The fruits begin to rot right on the branches. Affected shoots dry out quickly. Plums and leaves do not fall off.

Spraying against the disease is carried out during flowering, so the toxicity of drugs should be taken into account so as not to harm the bees. Safer are Fitolavin, Horus, Skor, Topsin-M. Processing is carried out during the following periods:

• from bud swelling to flowering;
• during flowering;
• after flowering.

late blight

The disease often begins to affect the roots, clogs the vessels of the plant. Drying develops rapidly. The tree dies within 2-3 years. Treat the plant with fungicides. The drug Fitosporin effectively fights the disease.

verticillium wilt (wilt)

Attacks young cultures. In July or August, the leaves curl and dry up. The process begins at the bottom of the branches, gradually rises and captures young shoots. By the end of summer, the trees may be left without leaves. Often they fall off only part of the crown. Vessels that are visible on the saw cut die off in the branches. Against wilt in summer and spring, the drug Hom is used (40 g per 10 liters of water).

Bacterial diseases

If the plum has dried up, then it is worth looking for the cause among the diseases that cause various microorganisms.

Bacterial spotting

Small spots in the form of circles or stripes appear on the leaves. Their border turns yellow and dries. Fruits are also affected - they are covered with dark spots with a flaky surface. The plum dries up completely.

Witch's broom

The disease is distinguished by thin overgrown branches, the leaves on which are covered with a bloom from below. Such shoots do not give fruits, but take on most of the nutrition.

Against bacterial diseases, a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) or 5% azofoska is used. Antibiotics are also used. Processing is carried out 3 times per season with an interval of 4-6 days.

Pests

Drying out of a plant can be caused by insects that feed on its sap. Rodents can also be harmful.

Water rat

In winter, it eats around the bark of young trees, in summer - their roots, as a result of which the plum dries completely. It is difficult to deal with a rodent, so the area must be kept clean and not littered. The main methods of struggle:

• At the end of autumn, the trunk is covered with spruce branches with needles down.
• After a snowfall and during thaw days, they trample down the snow, then the rats cannot overcome it.

plum aphid

Insect colonies cover the undersides of leaves and young shoots and feed on plant sap. Aphid secretions attract ants, flies and wasps.

The pest must be washed off with water from a hose and the tree treated with one of the preparations: Karbofos, Sharpei, Inta-Vir. Nearby you can plant onions, garlic, Dalmatian chamomile, which repel insects.

spider mite

Damages the leaves: they become discolored, especially along the main and lateral veins, change color to brown and curl. In hot weather, leaf fall is possible.

Control measures: destruction of weeds, trees are washed with organophosphorus compounds or sprayed with biological pesticides.

Shchitovka

Convex spots and growths appear on the leaves, which are difficult to separate. They become covered with honeydew (sticky liquid), lose their luster, bald spots and black spots appear on the damaged areas. The bark of the tree is cracking.

Insecticides Aktara, Bankol, Biotlin will help in the fight. The bark from damaged areas is scraped off with a metal brush. Affected parts, if possible, are cut and destroyed.

Disease prevention

So that the plum does not shed its leaves and does not dry out entirely, it is worth paying great attention to care.

Prevention is as follows:

• correct and timely pruning tree;
• covering wounds with garden pitch;
• treatment of instruments with disinfectants;
• harvesting fallen leaves and fruits;
• purchase of seedlings in proven nurseries;
• autumn and spring whitewashing with limestone mortar;
• sowing green manure (fungi do not like them);
• timely treatment with chemicals;
• regular inspection of the tree;
• keeping the distance between plants;
• prevention of mechanical damage to the bark and fruits;
• digging the soil around the trunk.

Conclusion

If the plum began to dry out, it is worth starting treatment immediately, because. disease can affect others horticultural crops. Proper care is the key to the health of the plum and its good wintering, in which the plant will not get sick and will give a high yield.

If the cause of drying has not been identified or nothing can be done, it is worth leaving the tree alone. It can start up a new shoot and a dried bud.

Readers often ask why plant leaves wither. It happens on an apple tree and a plum tree, on cucumbers and eggplants, on asters and strawberries, .. At first the leaves grow normally, and suddenly they begin to fade, although the soil has not dried up.

In all cases, infections are the cause, but diseases can be different. Another thing is alarming: many do nothing! Sometimes diseased leaves (branches) will be cut off and that's it! And often dry branches remain in the crown. It is unacceptable! In this case, the disease will be repeated from year to year!

ROOT OF EVIL

If they wither vegetable crops and strawberries, then the problem is in the roots. Infections affect the vascular system of the roots, blocking the access of moisture to the leaves, causing them to wither. In eggplants, cucumbers, the leaves hang like rags. Later they begin to dry out.

The disease can proceed very quickly, the plant dies in 3-4 days. But sometimes the process is extended in time. It all depends on the conditions (weather, care) and how "evil the infection" is.

Leaves wither when fusarium and verticillium wilt. The second disease is often referred to as "wilt". The symptoms are very similar, and only professionals can distinguish between diseases. Since the roots are affected, various diseases have been combined under the general name "root rot".

Pathogens are fungi that live in the soil. If it is infected, then the plants suffer from year to year.

The infection spreads through the area garden tool or on shoes. As a result, different crops can be affected - strawberries, clematis, eggplants ...

Control measures. Depending on the course of the disease, leaf wilting may temporarily stop, for example, in cloudy weather and immediately after watering. Therefore, the gardener gets the impression that the plant lacks moisture. Frequent watering begins, which is a gross mistake! Waterlogging the soil, on the contrary, accelerates the development of the disease.

Plants need to be treated. Fungicides are used against fungal infections. Of the public ones, these are MAXIM and VITAROS. The solution is watered under the root at the very beginning of the disease (when the leaves wither, but do not dry out yet). If the process is strongly started, then the plant is very difficult to save. In some crops (asters, strawberries), it is better to dig a bush along with the soil, and spill the hole with a fungicide. Do not put these plants in the compost, only burn them!

AT initial stage plant diseases can be cured. An example is clematis. Sometimes the aerial part dries out completely, but the root remains alive, and the clematis grows back.

Sometimes the disease affects the plant already with fruits. It is a pity to lose such a bush, say eggplant. BUT chemicals cannot be used - they will turn into fruits.

GLIOCLADIN will help. It is a biological fungicide to suppress fungal infections in the soil. And again, you can not delay the treatment!

As soon as you notice that the leaves are withering and the soil is wet, immediately apply Gliocladin. 3-4 tablets under a bush to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. Be sure to mulch the soil so that it does not dry out, otherwise the drug will not work.

Despite the fact that one or two plants are affected, the tablets must be placed under all the bushes so that they do not get sick. If the disease was last year, do not guess whether it will be or not. Apply Glyocladin

NOW!

From biological preparations on healthy plants, Alirin, Gamair, Fitosporin, Fitolavin can be used. This is an excellent prevention of root rot and other fungal infections.

Grow plants in loose soil, do not allow crusting. For this purpose, mulch the soil in the root zone.

After harvesting, disinfect the soil in the greenhouse with the same fungicides. Observe the change of crops, do not plant cucumbers in the same place two years in a row.

The infection can be brought into the garden with purchased seedlings. It is very useful when planting to immediately shed the soil with a fungicide, and put Gliocladin tablets under the roots.

IF BRANCHES DRY

In spring and early summer, leaves often dry on plum, felt cherry, less often on apple and pear. At first they simply wither, and then dry up and remain hanging on the branches.

Here another infection is moniliosis. By the nature of the lesion (brown leaves, as if burned), the disease is called monilial burn

The causative agent is also a fungus. Penetrates the leaves and flowers of plants through their stomata and wounds caused by insects. The infection spreads gradually: first, young shoots wither, and then the fungus penetrates deeper and deeper, affecting perennial branches.

If nothing is done, then you can lose half the tree! Sometimes large dry branches are visible for a long time in the crown. Against the background of healthy branches, they stand out with a dead brown color.

Young seedlings die completely, usually in the spring, as soon as the leaves have blossomed.

But the gardener hopes that the tree will revive, and does not touch the branches until next year. And this is a carrier of infection!

With moniliosis, do not wait for the infection to develop when it destroys a large branch. Start by pruning small wilted shoots. In this case, the disease can be stopped.

Control measures. When the leaves on a plum, cherry, apple tree wither, the affected branches must be cut off with the capture of a healthy part (with leaves that have not yet withered).

After pruning, spray the plant with fungicides on copper-based Hom, Oxyhom, Bordeaux mixture or Horus preparation.

Annually carry out such spraying in early spring, before the leaves bloom. Re-treatment after flowering is also desirable. Avoid dense plantings, prune regularly and thin out the crown.

The human body is a reasonable and fairly balanced mechanism.

Among all infectious diseases known to science, infectious mononucleosis has a special place ...

The disease, which official medicine calls "angina pectoris", has been known to the world for quite a long time.

Mumps (scientific name - mumps) is an infectious disease ...

Hepatic colic is a typical manifestation of cholelithiasis.

Cerebral edema is the result of excessive stress on the body.

There are no people in the world who have never had ARVI (acute respiratory viral diseases) ...

A healthy human body is able to absorb so many salts obtained from water and food ...

Bursitis of the knee joint is a widespread disease among athletes...

Why the buds on the plum do not bloom

How to respond to the regular absence of flowers on the plum?

Why is the plum not blooming? This circumstance often confuses many (even experienced) gardeners. It is not uncommon for plums not to bloom throughout the district, despite the absence of frosts and seemingly favorable weather conditions.

Many gardeners who carefully care for fruit trees (regularly pruning the crown, fertilizing the soil in the near-stem circle) are perplexed, from year to year not observing the flowering of their plums. What is the reason for the persistent lack of flowering, what factors affect it? Let's try to understand the reasons for this mysterious phenomenon.

Some information about the fruit tree

• Plum is a fruit crop that is a species of the plum genus of the same name and belongs to the plum subfamily.
• The height of plum trees can reach one and a half dozen meters.
• The crown of trees belonging to various plum varieties can be both narrow and wide.
• A plum can bear fruit for 10 to 15 years, and its average life span can be a quarter of a century.
• Early-ripening plums begin to bear their first fruits a year after planting. plums late varieties bear fruit only six or seven years later.
• From one to three white five-petal flowers develop from each fruit bud (urban residents may have a question: “how does cherry blossom?”).
• The yield of a plum orchard is higher, the greater the number of varieties of plums planted in it.
• Breeders have bred varieties of plums with purple, red, light green, yellow and black-and-gray fruits.

Why is the plant so dependent on pollination?

The whole variety of varieties of modern plums can be divided into four groups. Plums can be:

Self-pollinated. Plums of self-fertile varieties are guaranteed to produce a crop even in the absence of insects, which is why many gardeners prefer to grow just such varieties.

Partially self pollinated. This group of fruit trees combines the qualities of plants from the first and third groups: that is, in the case of low insect activity, gardeners still have hope of getting a plum crop.

Self-infertile. This group is represented by the most large quantity varieties that exist in modern horticulture. These varieties need pollinating plants growing in the neighborhood. In this case, pollinators must belong to a completely different variety.

Fruits on plums of self-fertile varieties can appear only as a result of cross-pollination by insects. The vulnerability of these varieties is that in bad weather and during frosts, insect activity is zero, as a result of which plum flowers can fall off, remaining unpollinated.

Sterile. Plum varieties in this category are also dependent on pollination.

The main danger is the early appearance of buds

Plum blossoming comes very early (in the first decade of May) and lasts for 10-12 days (“how does the cherry blossom?” - this is the question of the residents northern regions often asked by residents of the south).

Due to the early flowering period, trees always remain at risk of freezing of the buds, since at this time the thaw can often be accompanied by severe frosts.

Another danger that awaits flowering trees is that under bad weather conditions, pollinating insects do not leave their shelters, as a result of which plum flowers may not wait for pollination.

If flowering coincided with a cooling period, experienced gardeners use spraying fruit trees milk of lime: this measure can delay flowering for several days. As a result, the frost will pass, and the plum buds will remain intact.

In the garden, it is recommended to set up hives to improve the quality of cross-pollination with the help of insects. At the same time, the branches plum blossoms can be sprayed with a weak solution of sugar (half a glass per bucket of water): this will attract bees, which is especially important in conditions cold weather.

Causes of problems

1) Unfavorable weather in the period preceding plum blossoms. Unfortunately, in the spring, there are often sudden changes in day and night temperatures.

Hot spring days, during which the flower buds swell, are often replaced by very cold (up to frost) nights, as a result of which the frozen buds fall off without blooming.

No less detrimental to trees that have prepared for flowering are sudden frosts that occur during a period of prolonged warming. Sometimes just one sharp temperature drop becomes the culprit for the complete freezing of swollen buds.

2) Too fertilized soil. Trees growing in such soil begin to "fatten": they start to grow, throwing out long growth shoots, completely devoid of flower buds.

The lack of flowering may be due to a lack of trace elements in the soil. Iron, phosphorus and zinc are extremely important trace elements that affect both flowering and fruiting of fruit trees.

3) Plum planted in the wrong place for it. Such a place may be a site that is not protected from the cold north wind.

4) A very important factor (contributing to sufficient annual growth and laying the optimal number of fruit buds) is the forming and sanitary pruning of the crown, as well as the removal of basal shoots. Thus, trees that do not receive proper care do not bloom.

5) If in the previous vegetative period the summer was dry and the plums suffered from a lack of moisture, bud laying might not have happened: the plants simply did not have enough strength for this.

Rescue activities

Eliminating the causes can radically improve the situation and lead to the fact that the plum, which has stubbornly refused to bloom for a number of years, will suddenly please the gardener with a generous scattering of white and pink flowers on its branches.

To prevent freezing of buds during severe frosts, small trees can be wrapped with modern covering material or fumigated branches with smoke. This procedure is not among the highly effective measures, but in this way at least part of the kidneys can be saved from freezing.

The plum “fattens” on overly fertilized soil, giving all its strength to accelerated growth, but does it simply have no strength left to bloom? The gardener has two ways: either to prune part of the growth shoots, combining this procedure with cutting off part of the roots, or to transplant the tree to a site whose soil is less fertile.

If the plant lacks microelements vital for it, you can correct the situation by burying rusty nails, strips of tin, and iron scraps in the trunk circle. A rusty nail driven into the trunk of a cherry will become a source of iron for many years, which has passed into the form of a trace element, satisfying the plant's need for this necessary substance.

Wood ash and eggshells introduced into the soil around the crown perimeter, as well as regular fertilizing with mineral phosphorus fertilizer (superphosphate), will serve as sources of other trace elements.

If the plums are planted in a place that is not very good for them (for example, they freeze because of the cold wind blowing on them), you should either transplant them to a more favorable site, or surround the garden with a high fence (to protect against strong winds). The height of the fence should be at least two meters, and the gaps between the boards forming it should be made small: only in this case the fence will be able to fulfill its protective function.

Pruning stimulates abundant bud formation, so this procedure must be performed regularly, combined with the removal of basal shoots.

In order for the tree to have enough strength to lay buds, it must be regularly and plentifully watered during the dry season.

There are buds, but no fruit...

Sometimes there is such a situation: the plum blossoms in the spring, but not a single ovary forms on its branches, and this happens over a number of years. This behavior is typical for the non-winter-hardy wild plum variety.

The thing is that in winter, her kidneys partially freeze. This does not affect the flowering of the tree in any way. The only way out can only be the destruction of the empty flower tree.

Plums often fail to bear fruit due to lack of sunlight.

Too acidic soil can cause plums to fail to bear fruit.

Young plum ovaries, if damaged by pests, can completely crumble immediately after flowering is completed.

propochemu.ru

Why is there no fruit on the plum? Why your plum does not bloom or blooms but does not bear fruit: expert answers

Plum is a popular fruit crop. Of the stone fruits, in importance it immediately follows the cherry. She possesses high yield, excellent taste, good processing, promising for industrial gardens. However, in the varietal composition of the Non-Chernozem region, plum occupies only 7%. Why is that? Yes, because this breed irregularly bears fruit and even often simply does not bloom.

Why does the plum not bloom and bear fruit?

Why isn't plum blossom blooming?

The fruit buds of this stone fruit crop are not sufficiently resistant to frost and often die from them. And the yield directly depends on the number of "survivors" and able to tie the fruit of the eyes.

With complete freezing of flower buds, there is no need to wait for the harvest. With the death of 60-70%, the collection of plums from one tree can be from three to thirty kilograms.

Plum flowers under the snow

Freezing of trees happens not only in severe winters with big frosts. The most dangerous for stone fruits are thaws followed by cold snaps. The dormant period for these crops is short and when warming, they quickly start growing, deciding that spring has come. An unexpected frost can cause serious damage to the tissues and buds of a tree. Temperature swings are dangerous both in the middle lane and in the south of the country. They cause great damage to trees up to the complete absence of fruiting and even freezing.

Most often this occurs in early spring or late winter. Plums that have begun to grow suffer even with a slight frost. First of all, fruit buds are damaged. Some time after freezing, they turn brown, dry out and crumble without opening. With mild damage, the flowers bloom very slowly, not fully opening. But these buds, unfortunately, are also not viable and, having dried up, fall off.

Frosts can damage the pistils of the flowers. In this case, the crop is also lost - in whole or in part.

Frost is also dangerous for set fruits and damages them already at -1.1 ° C. First of all, the embryo in the seed dies. The fruits fall off shortly after freezing. It is even more offensive when the tree blooms magnificently, but does not produce a crop. The branches are literally “doused” with flowers, but there is no result. The reasons for this phenomenon may be different.

Why does a plum tree bloom but not bear fruit?

Pollination

One of the reasons is the lack of pollination. Plum is a cross-pollinated crop. To set fruits, you need a pollinator - a tree of a different variety that blooms at the same time as the first. At different periods of flowering, pollination may not occur.

Weather conditions can interfere with the fertilization of flowers: cold, rain or strong wind. Plums are pollinated by bees, and in bad weather they do not fly.

For stable fruiting, it is good to have at least one tree of a self-fertile variety on the site. Self-fertile plants can set fruit from being pollinated by their own pollen.

They are good pollinators for other plums as well.

Highly self-fertile varieties: Stanley, Chachakskaya early, Hungarian Italian, Hungarian Italian, Kabardian early, Shpet, Hungarian Wangenheim, Chachakskaya native, Renklod Ulens, Hungarian azhanskaya, Chachakskaya lepotitsa.

Partially self-fertile varieties: Bogatyrskaya, Opal, Verity.

Most of the varieties are self-fertile: Bluefri, Chachak Naibolia, Renklod Altana, Fantasia, Empres, Peach, Voloshka, Hungarian Donetsk, etc.

Self-fertile varieties for the middle lane: Blue gift, Alexy, Sukhanovskaya.

fruit shedding

Physiological shedding of fruits is observed after abundant flowering and the setting of a large number of fruits. The tree is simply not able to "feed" such a crop and part of it is shed.

Another thing is pests and diseases. It happens that the plum blossomed, and the fruits began to set. But then the ovary falls off, carpeting the ground under the tree. And for some reason again the plum does not bear fruit.

Pests that cause shedding of the ovary

Refers to weevils. Its length without proboscis is about half a centimeter. The beetle is a beautiful iridescent color - crimson with a copper and green tint. It pierces with a proboscis the fruits of various fruit crops, including plums. One individual is able to damage more than a hundred fruits. The goose lays an egg in a gnawed depression.

The hatched larva feeds inside the fruit. At the next stage of development, the larva from the fallen fruit moves to the ground, where it hibernates. It turns into a chrysalis only next summer. Beetles hatch from pupated larvae in late summer - early autumn. They settle on trees, feeding on buds and young shoots, late apples and pears. Ten beetles are capable of completely destroying the crop on one tree. They hibernate under fallen leaves.

Black plum sawfly.

Females lay their eggs in the flowers of plum crops: thorns, cherry plums, plums. The larvae gnaw out the pulp and bone. The ovary, damaged by the sawfly, crumbles. Each larva damages about five fruits. Then it goes into the ground to pupate. There it hibernates at a depth of ten centimeters.

sawfly larva

To combat the pest, trees are treated before flowering and after it with Inta-vir or spark preparations (1 tablet per 10 liters of water). Damaged fruits are destroyed.

Plum thick leg.

The female starts laying eggs during plum blossom. And he continues to do this for another two weeks, attaching eggs to a green ovary. The papilion is polyphagous and harms many stone fruit crops. The larva, having been born, gnaws out the bone. By July, the fruits begin to fall. The larvae overwinter in fallen fruits inside the seed. Since spring, the life cycle of the pest is repeated.

pachyderm

Under adverse conditions, the pachyderm can be in a "sleeping" state for two years. This ensures her survival species. Spraying from the papilion is carried out at the end of flowering, when three-quarters of the petals have already crumbled. Re-treatment after ten days. Recommended drugs: "Kinmiks", karbofos, etc.

Fruits damaged by the pest are collected and disposed of: burned or drowned in water. It is not recommended to just bury them. The pachyderm will climb out of the soil and continue to harm the plum trees.

plum codling moth

It can also cause fruit shedding. Butterflies lay their eggs on fruits. After about a week, the caterpillars hatch. For several hours they crawl on leaves and fruits. During this period, they are vulnerable to pesticide treatments. Then the caterpillar bites into the fruit and moves towards the stalk, eating away the pulp. The fruits fall off. One caterpillar lives in one fruit. The place of entry of the caterpillar can be determined by a drop of gum that has come out.

In the northern regions, the codling moth develops in one generation. In the south, it manages to hatch two or three.

To combat the codling moth, three to four sprays are carried out:

1. Mass summer of butterflies (first decade of June).

2. At the end of June - beginning of July, but not earlier than two weeks after the previous treatment.

3. End of July - against the 2nd generation.

The following insecticides are used: mospilan, ratibor, confidor, all pyrethroids, match.

Biological preparations bitoxibacillin or lepidocid can be used.

In this case, the number of treatments increases to six. Sprayed every ten days.

zhenskoe-opinion.ru

Plum, cultivation

It would seem that it is easier to grow a simple plum. But only a very self-confident person and not very knowledgeable can think like that. This culture has its own specifics, subtleties. They will be discussed in the selection of materials.

According to the nature of fruiting, varieties and types of plums are conventionally divided into three groups:

• fruiting mainly on one-year growth;
• on perennial overgrowing branches;
• both on annual shoots and on overgrown branches.

Plum

In the first group of plums, on strong annual growths, group buds predominate - two or three in one node (usually the middle bud is leafy, and the lateral buds are flowering). Group buds are concentrated in the middle part of the shoot. Below are single flower buds. The apical and several buds closest to it are single leaf buds. The following year, bouquet twigs and spurs develop on the one-year-old shoot from the lower leaf buds. Above them, stronger growth shoots develop. Flower buds produce flowers and fruits. Bouquet twigs and spurs in varieties of the first group are very short-lived. The yield is determined by the number of flower buds on a one-year shoot. After picking the fruit, the branches become very bare, especially if single flower buds predominate. Varieties of the first group are characterized by early maturity and productivity, but require constant attention to maintaining strong shoot growth. This group includes most varieties of Chinese, Ussuri, American and Canadian plums.

Varieties of the second group are distinguished by the formation of perennial overgrown twigs or fruit branches. They contain the bulk of the crop. For varieties of this group, it is important that there is no excessive thickening of the crown, otherwise the overgrown branches die off en masse and fruiting deteriorates. The second group includes mainly domestic plum varieties of Western European and southern origin.

Varieties of the third group have an intermediate nature of fruiting between the first and second groups. They bear fruit well both on one-year growth and on relatively short-lived 3-4-year-old overgrown branches. For varieties of the third group, along with maintaining strong growth, it is very important to change bare branches in a timely manner. Crown thickening should also not be allowed; overgrowing branches should be in favorable lighting conditions. The third group includes most of the Central Russian varieties of plums: Skorospelka red, Hungarian Moscow. Tula black, Ochakov yellow, etc.

When growing plums, pruning, it must be remembered that stone fruits have simple fruit buds, that is, only fruits can form from them. On strong annual shoots there are group and single fruit buds. On weak growths, mainly single flower buds are formed. Therefore, when the growth is weakened, the branches are exposed. It is enhanced by the fact that after two to four years of fruiting, the bouquet branches and spurs die off, forming thorns.

In summer, the growth of shoots in plums may stop and then start again. In this case, secondary shoots are formed.

These features of the growth and fruiting of plums must be taken into account when pruning and forming a crown.

Plum

Shaping and trimming

Trees are formed with a stem 25-40 cm high, crown - from 5 - 7 well-developed and well-placed branches. It is desirable to form skeletal branches not from adjacent buds, but from 10-15 cm apart from one another, shorten them for subordination, preventing the formation of forks, and changing the direction of growth. The first pruning is carried out in early spring immediately after planting. If you are late with the start, then it is better to wait until next year.

Plum pruning in the early years is necessary for the formation of the main branches of the crown. Excess branches, which can contribute to the thickening of the crown, must be weakened or removed. In varieties that bear fruit on annual shoots (annual wood), shortening should be minimal so as not to cause excessive branching that thickens the crown. Strong (50-60 cm) annual growths of young trees bearing fruit on two-year-old wood (bouquet twigs and spurs) should be shortened more. Well-developed shoots are shortened by 1/4-1/5 of their length to enhance the formation of shoots and the development of spurs.

When the tree enters its full fruiting period, pruning is necessary to maintain the strength of the growth of the shoots. If the crown is formed correctly and there is a sufficiently strong one-year growth (at least 40 cm), there is no need to shorten it. They are limited to thinning the crown with cutting out thickening, dry, improperly located and rubbing branches. With a weak growth (less than 25-30 cm), without shortening the one-year-old shoot, they are cut to 2-3-year-old wood above the nearest lateral branching. If the growth is even less (10-15 cm), rejuvenating pruning is carried out on 4-5-year-old wood, i.e., perennial branches are cut to a strong lateral branching.

In grafted well-developed trees, the root shoots are annually removed to the main root of the mother plant, leaving no stumps. In root-own varieties, shoots are used for propagation. In case of severe freezing or death of the entire above-ground part, own-rooted varieties can be quickly restored by leaving two or three coppice plants at a distance of about 3 m from one another and forming them according to the described type. In case of death of grafted trees, 2-3 coppice plants can also be left, but they must be re-grafted with the desired varieties.

Plum

Work calendar (from November to December)

November December. Regularly tread snow on the tree trunks and around the digging of seedlings to prevent mice from getting to young trees. In heavy snowfalls, shake the snow off the branches. This will reduce their breakage. For better overwintering, sprinkle dug seedlings with snow.

Before the onset of severe frosts, prepare cuttings (annual shoots 20-30 cm long) for spring vaccinations. Leaving the harvesting of cuttings until spring is risky, since in winter the shoots can freeze slightly and the survival rate of grafts will drop sharply. Tie the cut cuttings into bundles and store in a snow pile until spring. Inside the shoulder, the temperature is maintained at about 0″. Snow protects cuttings from drying, low winter and high spring temperatures.

January. In snowless winters, shovel snow up to tree trunks to protect roots and stems from freezing. After snowfalls, shake the snow from the branches to avoid breakage. In young gardens, after a snowfall, trample the snow around the trees to protect them from damage by mice and the accumulation of moisture in the soil.

February. Continue work on snow retention in the garden, repair garden tools, the importation of fertilizers, pesticides, etc. At the end of the month, shovel the snow from the stems of the plum, free them from the winter strapping. It should be immediately taken out of the garden and burned. Whitewash the stems and bases of the branches with lime mortar (3 kg of freshly slaked lime -) - 2 kg of clay per bucket of water). This will help in the winter-spring period to smooth out temperature fluctuations on the surface of the bark during the day and reduce the appearance of sunburn.

To keep the snow in the pile where the cuttings are laid longer, at the end of February, sprinkle it with sawdust with a layer of 15-20 cm.

Plum

March. To attract birds in the first half of the month, hang birdhouses in the garden. From the middle of the month, start pruning plums.

April. Continue unfinished ^ work on cleaning boles and caring for the crown. Dig grooves to drain melt water.

When planting plums, take into account the strength of the growth of trees, depending on the soil and climatic conditions and varietal features. AT southern regions countries on fertile soils, plum trees develop more strongly, so plant them more spaciously - with a distance of 3-4 m in a row and 5-6 m between rows, in the middle lane, Siberia and on Far East- denser: 2-3 m in a row and 3-5 m between rows.

The best time for planting plums in the middle and northern zones is spring, in the south - autumn and winter.

As soon as the soil ripens (becomes loose, crumbly), level the area and start digging holes (if this work has not been done since the fall). The size of the planting holes depends on the size of the root system. Usually pits are prepared with a diameter of 60-80 cm, a depth of 40-60 cm. When digging holes, discard the top layer of soil in one direction, the bottom layer in the other. Upper layer mix the soil with organic and mineral fertilizers by adding 1 bucket of rotted manure (or 2 buckets of compost), 200-300 g (2-3 handfuls) of superphosphate and 40-60 g of potassium salt (or 300-400 g of wood ash). Then put the seedling to the stake in the planting hole, straighten the roots, cover with fertile soil, compacting it with your feet so that voids do not form between the roots. Immediately after planting, make a hole around the seedling, pour water (2 buckets), tie the seedling to the stake with a figure-eight twine (loosely), mulch with peat, sawdust or loose earth. Scatter the bottom layer of soil over the area. After planting, the root neck of the plants should be at the level of the soil.

If the garden is already planted, dig up the soil under the canopy and between the rows with a pitchfork or shovel. In order not to damage the root system, the plane of the shovel should always be in a radial direction towards the trunk. Closer to the trunk, dig smaller (to a depth of 5-10 cm), as you move away - deeper (10-15 cm). Before digging, scatter nitrogen fertilizers under the crown of trees (100-200 g per tree of urea or calcium nitrate in a young garden, 300-500 g in a fruit-bearing one). They will provide good growth and plum blossom.

For guard flowering trees from return spring frosts, prepare smoke piles.

Sometimes cherries and plums are planted in lowlands, where cold air often stagnates in winter, causing damage or death of flower buds and branches. If the site is located in a lowland, the cultivation of stone fruits will have to be abandoned.

It is necessary to know the depth of groundwater. They should not be closer than 1.5-2.0 m from the soil surface. At a closer location, cherries and plums should not be planted.

The importance of crown pruning should not be underestimated: it is sometimes carried out irregularly, which is why the crown thickens, the fruit formations die off, and fruiting becomes irregular. Trees overloaded with crops freeze even in relatively mild winters and bear little fruit. That's why you need to prune cherries and plums every year.

At the end of the month, start grafting the cuttings. This work can be done during the period of sap flow.

Plum

May. If the air temperature drops to +1°, light the smoke piles. Finish smoking 1 to 2 hours after sunrise. To mitigate the effects of frost, irrigate the soil under the trees and spray the crown with water.

In hot, dry weather, be sure to water the plums (4-6 buckets of water per 1 tree). Before flowering, it is useful to feed the tree with organic or mineral fertilizers. Organic fertilizers (cow dung, bird droppings or feces) are diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10 and 4-6 buckets of solution are added under the tree (depending on the age of the garden). If organic fertilizers are not available, liquid mineral fertilizers are used. One tablespoon of urea is dissolved in 10 liters of water and 2-3 buckets are applied in a young garden, 4-6 buckets of liquid fertilizer per tree in an adult. To reduce moisture loss due to evaporation, immediately after top dressing, mulch the soil with peat or sawdust.

If the aisles of the garden are kept under black fallow, weeding and loosening the soil are carried out 2-3 times a month. When naturally grassed, mow the grass regularly (5-6 times during the summer) and leave it in place as mulch.

Remove wild growth or harvest it for propagation.

June July. Continue caring for the plum orchard: remove weeds, loosen tree trunks and aisles. In dry years, irrigate (5-7 buckets for each tree). After flowering (at the beginning of June) and during the formation of fruits (at the end of June), it is useful to fertilize with organic and mineral fertilizers. Doses of fertilizers are the same as for spring feeding.

In good years, place props under the main branches.

Aug. Sept. In gardens with natural sod spacing, grass mowing is stopped. If the soil is kept under black fallow, dig the trunk circles and autumn plowing of the row-spacings. Before digging, evenly scatter organic and mineral fertilizers under the crown of trees. Good results are obtained by alternately applying organic and mineral fertilizers (in a year). Based on one tree, organic fertilizers (humus or compost) are applied 1-2 buckets, mineral - 200-500 g of superphosphate, 200-400 g of potassium salt (or 1-1.5 kg of wood ash). Under young plantings, the doses of fertilizers are reduced, under fruit-bearing ones - increased. Autumn fertilization improves the ripening of shoots, overwintering of plants and provides them with the nutrients necessary for growth and fruiting next year.

If the soils in the garden are acidic, lime them once every three years. For this, lime materials ( slaked lime, ground limestone, dolomite, chalk) grind, evenly scatter over the area (300 - 500 g per 1 m2 of surface) and dig.

In August-September, plums are harvested, preserved and processed.

For better overwintering of trees (especially in dry years), carry out water recharge irrigation (5-7 buckets of water for 1 tree).

Start digging holes spring planting. planting material buy from autumn. For better overwintering, seedlings are best stored in a prikop. To do this, dig a groove 30-40 cm deep, lay the seedlings obliquely (lowering the roots into the groove), sprinkle them with soil, compact it with your feet, water it well (1 bucket of water for each plant), sprinkle soil again on top to form an earthen roller 20 cm high. -30 cm. In this state, the seedlings winter well until spring.

Plum

© Forest & Kim Starr

October. Moisture-charging irrigation is completed, followed by soil mulching.

Clean the trunks and bases of branches from dead bark, mosses and lichens. After cleaning the wounds with a knife, wash them with a 2-3% (20-30 g per 1 liter of water) solution of iron or 1-2% (10-20 g per 1 liter of water) copper sulphate. Then cover the wounds with garden pitch. If there are hollows, seal them with cement. Whitewash the stems and bases of the branches with lime mortar (the concentration is the same as in February).

To protect young trees from rodents (hares, mice), tie the stems with spruce branches (tops of branches down). For better wintering, spud the trees with soil with a layer of 15-20 cm. Rake fallen leaves into heaps and compost or burn (to destroy pests and diseases).

Plum

How to prevent errors

When caring for stone fruit plantations, amateur gardeners often make mistakes, which results in low fruit yields.

One of common mistakes- thickened tree plantings. When the crowns close, the illumination of the branches worsens and they rush upwards, which makes it difficult to care for the trees and harvest. This circumstance should be taken into account when laying the garden.

Many mistakes are made by inexperienced gardeners when fertilizing. Often, too much or too little is added at one time. Large doses of organic fertilizers can cause fattening of young trees, delay the growth of shoots, worsen their ripening, which increases the risk of winter freezing. Increased doses of mineral fertilizers, in turn, increase the concentration of salts in the soil, which has a depressing effect on fruit trees. When applying low doses of fertilizers on poor soils, trees grow poorly and bear fruit. Therefore, you need to adhere to the optimal doses for your particular area.

Often the reason for the low fruiting of cherries and plums is the wrong selection of pollinating varieties. With single-varietal plantings of self-fertile varieties, trees often bloom well, but almost do not bear fruit due to premature shedding of ovaries. In such cases, it is necessary to plant pollinating varieties (of the same flowering period as the main varieties) or to graft their cuttings into the crown.

Plum

Stone fruits may bear little fruit due to freezing of fruit buds or partial damage to them. If the fruit buds do not bloom, then they are frozen. Often in early spring, freezing of the pistil (central part) of the flower is observed. In this case, the tree blooms profusely, but does not form an ovary. Therefore, choose highly winter-hardy varieties. In addition, you can protect trees from frost by preparing them well for winter: carry out water-recharging irrigation in the fall (especially after a dry summer), apply organic and mineral fertilizers, and protect plants from pests and diseases.

www.botanichka.ru

The drain dries up - the cause and solution of the problem. How to properly care for a tree so that it bears fruit for many years and does not hurt?

The plum is a stone fruit found in every garden.

With proper care, the tree brings a large number of tasty and juicy fruits that can be marinated, make jam, cook compotes and make excellent tinctures.

The tree has a wide variety of varieties that take root well in different climatic conditions.

Plum fruits are a storehouse of useful substances, among which are: calcium, phosphorus, mineral salts, proteins, carbohydrates, chromium, iodine, zinc, copper, as well as a large amount of vitamins (A, B1, B2, B6, C, PP, E).

During cultivation, the plum loves space, so that neighboring crowns do not close, so this point is important to consider when planting. Particular attention should be paid to fertilizers, they must be applied strictly in the amount indicated in the instructions, otherwise the tree can be seriously harmed. It is important to select pollinating varieties, so the tree will not only bloom well, but also bring a bountiful harvest.

Plum dries up: why

There are many reasons why plums dry up. Among the main ones, it is worth mentioning improper care throughout the year and climate change. Do not forget about diseases and pests that bring unpleasant consequences to the plant. However, if the tree is treated in time and the pests are destroyed, then it will continue to grow well and bear fruit abundantly.

Plum dries up: what to do - weather reasons

Strange as it may seem, but stone fruit trees are very sensitive to watering. If a drinking regimen broken, this can lead to drying of the plum and poor fruiting. The plant needs high-quality watering, especially during flowering and ovary formation.

Plum is very intolerant very coldy, since on the territory of our country it appeared much later than other fruit trees. The plant has not yet fully adapted to climatic features. Cold has a bad effect on the condition of the whole plant, which leads to drying. To avoid an unpleasant situation, it is worth choosing frost-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, even choosing the right variety, you can not completely insure the tree from freezing. Such unpleasant consequences can be avoided if the plant is properly cared for throughout the year. Throughout the year, the plum needs some care:

November - December, it is necessary to thoroughly trample the snow around the tree so that the mice do not penetrate the seedling. It is necessary to shake off snow from the branches of the plant to prevent the branches from breaking off;

January, if the winter is practically snowless, then the available amounts of snow must be raked up to the tree trunk and thoroughly trampled down. Such actions will protect the roots and trunk from freezing;

February, the snow must be removed from the tree trunk and the winter harness removed. The plum trunk must be whitewashed with limestone mortar (for 10 liters of water, 3 kg of lime and 2 kg of clay are needed), such manipulations will help the tree to transfer temperature changes;

March, in the middle of the month, you need to start cutting the plum;

April, it is necessary to dig grooves to drain the melt water, so a lot of moisture will not penetrate to the root of the tree. The soil around the trees must be dug up, and nitrogen fertilizers should be scattered around, they will ensure excellent growth, development and flowering. To save the plant from possible spring frosts, it is worth preparing smoke piles in advance that will warm the tree;

May, if the temperature is about +1 °C, then it is necessary to set fire to the smoke heaps. It is better to finish smoking 1-2 hours after sunrise. After that, it is advisable to pour the tree with warm water and spray the crown. In hot weather, plum needs abundant watering(about 6 buckets for 1 tree). Before flowering, the plant needs mineral and organic fertilizers;

June - July, it is necessary to water and feed the plant. Organic fertilizers should be diluted 1:10 and pour 5 buckets of solution under the tree. Urea must be diluted with 10 liters of water 1 tablespoon of fertilizer and pour 5 buckets under the tree;

August - September, the tree needs to be fed, so fertilizers will saturate the tree with all the useful substances, which will prevent freezing and, as a result, drying out. In autumn, the tree must be watered abundantly (about 7 buckets), this will help it to winter;

October, the trunk must be cleaned of various damages and whitewashed with lime, just like in February.

Proper care is the key to a good wintering and the health of the whole tree. Following these simple rules, you can protect the plum from frost and other weather conditions. So the plum will not dry out, but rather will bring a good harvest.

Plum dries up: what to do - pests and diseases

The yield of plums directly depends on the "health of the tree." Gardeners need to have a good knowledge of plant diseases and, if necessary, take urgent action.

1. Perforated spotting is a fungal disease that affects leaves, flowers and bark. It is most active in the spring when it rains. Brown spots appear on the plant, surrounded by a darker border. Holes appear on the leaves over time, and the fruits stop growing in the affected areas and the disease penetrates to the very bone.

To prevent plum disease, it is necessary to prune the tree annually, not allowing it to thicken. In autumn, fallen leaves should be removed, and the soil around it should be dug up. Affected branches should be cut and burned, and the wounds healed. If the disease has not receded, then the tree must be sprayed with Bordon liquid (1%) or copper oxychloride (30 g per 10 liters of water). This should be done 2 weeks after flowering.

2. Gommosis - a disease that manifests itself in the form of a brownish thick resin. It is quite common on brush fruit trees. Resin appears in places that have been damaged by frost or received sunburn. Usually the affected plum branches dry up. The disease appears due to adverse conditions, and it can also develop due to the large amount of nitrogen and moisture in the soil.

The drain must be properly and timely looked after, as well as prevent mechanical damage. The resulting wounds must be immediately cleaned and disinfected (petralatum). If the branches are significantly affected, they are best cut and destroyed. The affected bark must be cleaned and rubbed with horse sorrel, and then lubricated with garden pitch.

3. Rust is a fungal disease that initially affects the leaves. On the outside leaves appear red spots that increase in size. A diseased tree becomes weaker, begins shedding its leaves prematurely, and is prone to freezing, leading to drying out.

Fallen leaves must be destroyed in a timely manner. Before flowering, the tree must be sprayed with copper chloride (40 g per 5 liters of water, 3 liters of solution are needed per tree). At the end of the harvest, the plum must be treated with Bordon liquid.

It is worth paying attention to the pests that infect the tree and this can lead to the drying of the plum.

1. Goldentail is a white butterfly, its size is about 5 cm. During the swelling of the buds, the insect harms the leaves and buds of the tree. By the end of May, the caterpillar pupates and a butterfly appears, which lives in the bark, and on reverse side leaves she lays eggs. To destroy the pest, it is necessary to treat the plum with karbofos even before flowering.

2. The ringed silkworm is a moth about 4 cm in size, its wings are grayish in color. In spring, the insect eats leaves and buds. Control measures: before flowering, the tree must be sprayed with tinctures of wormwood, chamomile or tobacco. If a folk methods do not help, then you need to try chemical agents (entobacterin, dendrobacillin).

The plum dries up: what to do - if the reasons are not established

It may happen that it will not be possible to eliminate the causes of the drying of the plum.

The gardener could not save the tree from freezing or could not cure the disease and overcome the pest. Leave the plum alone.

Perhaps next year a new shoot will start from some preserved bud. If this does not happen, and the plum is completely dry, it is recommended to uproot the tree. A young seedling can be planted in its place only after three years.

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