Shaft for a circular saw. Do-it-yourself stationary circular saw - according to our drawings and guidance, everyone can do it. External clamping sleeve

The circular saw is one of the main woodworking machines. Almost any work with solid wood, with chipboard, MDF, fiberboard, etc. begins with it. With experience and skills, a circular machine can replace many other machines, which makes it the most necessary and useful tool for home or garden.

At the same time, the purchase of a finished machine often turns out to be either too expensive an event, or the proposed models do not suit any indicators. Therefore, it is often decided to make a circular saw on their own. Its device is quite simple, only an electric motor is required from the finished parts, the shaft becomes the most problematic element. Let's consider the issue in more detail.

General arrangement of a circular saw

A simple (not combined) machine is a table, from the surface of which a saw blade segment peeps out. The saw itself is mounted on a drive shaft supported by bearings at two points. Hubs for bearings are through, the shaft comes out of them on both sides - a drive pulley is installed on one side, and a saw blade is installed on the other. Thus, the main element that actually forms a circular saw is the working shaft. All other elements - a table, a tensioner, a ruler-stop for setting the cutting width - are much simpler and can be easily redone if any errors or inconsistencies are found.

How to make a do-it-yourself circular shaft

We will talk further about how to make a shaft for a circular with your own hands. Before starting work, we need lathe or a familiar turner (as an option, a specialized organization or company where you can place an order). As a material, a blank is required - round timber made of steel 45 or similar in quality. The diameter of the workpiece directly depends on the expected dimensions homemade shaft, more precisely - on the size saw blades that are supposed to be used. Diameter mounting hole The saw has several sizes:

  • 16 mm.
  • 20 mm.
  • 22 mm.
  • 30 mm.
  • 32 mm.
  • 50 mm.

The specified dimensions determine the choice of the diameter of the working shaft. The most common of them can be considered 32 mm, since this size has big number disks with different outer diameters. Working on a circular saw involves sawing variety of materials, sometimes thick, and the size of the disk departure from the plane of the table can play important role. You can make a thinner shaft, and install discs of a different landing diameter using adapters, but this should be done only within reasonable limits, and it is hardly worth making a machine only for small jobs. Given the variety of discs for this size, the choice is obvious.

  1. The disc is mounted between two flanges and clamped with a nut screwed onto the thread cut at the end of the working part of the shaft.

Important! The thread must be left-handed so that at the moment of the starting jerk the nut is tightened and not unscrewed.

  1. Bore diameters for bearings are selected based on available stock, and bearings will require hubs with mounting areas.
  2. The middle part of the shaft is the area with the largest diameter. If it turns out to be too large, then at the moment of launch, the shaft, which has a large inertia, will create increased load on the drive belt. Often this area is facilitated by drilling, removing excess mass.
  3. The section of the shaft opposite the worker is designed to install the drive pulley. The pulley itself can be used ready-made, or you can make (order) it yourself.

Important! A large number of revolutions for a circular is undesirable, this mode is dangerous for disks large diameter, since the linear speed is very high and causes a strong heating of the saw teeth.

For right choice the speed of rotation and the diameter of the pulleys should be guided by 1000-15000 rpm as the limit number. This value is relevant for discs with an outer diameter of 200-300 mm. For discs of smaller diameter, the values ​​change upwards.

Combined machines

For home use often make combined machines. The middle part of the shaft in such cases is used as a planer, for which special grooves are milled into which clamping wedges and knives are inserted. The end of the working part is lengthened and machined under a Morse taper, on which a drill chuck is mounted - a slotting unit is obtained for making sockets for spikes. Often cutters are installed on the shaft and grooves are milled or edges are processed.

This use of the machine requires additional stops and clamps. It should be borne in mind that combined equipment often does not have the proper quality, since some parameters of one function have to be sacrificed in favor of another. The result is often a product designed to perform many tasks, but in fact does one more or less well, and the rest - as it turns out. For quality work, it is better to make a machine that performs one task at a high level.

In conclusion, we should recall the dangers of working with woodworking machines in general and with homemade equipment in particular. In the absence of experience and skills, it is better to purchase a ready-made machine or get out of the situation somehow else, the risk of serious injury is very high. In case of overheating or skewed supply of the workpiece to the disk, it is possible to destroy it and spread fragments from high speed. The engine stop button should be at hand and work the first time. All safety measures must be observed so that work on the machine brings only benefit and satisfaction.

Useful video

AT household often missing circular saw, especially if started overhaul or construction. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular yourself, using the materials that are available in the household.

Design - the main nodes, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

  • adaptation of an existing hand tool, using the motor and circular saw for new possibilities;
  • improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
  • assembly from separate parts, made mainly in-house.

Stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, an engine, and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table serves for fixing woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled completely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machine tools with a large engine. Also made from wood nice tables for the circular. But it must be borne in mind that the countertop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding a considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For homemade circular engine fits well washing machine. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, they are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if there is no 380 V on the farm, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work from 220 V.

The most responsible node is the shaft. Use ready-made, if available, or machined from round metal. Work on a lathe is performed in one setup, then, together with the working bodies, the centering is checked. Even the minimum beat is unacceptable, otherwise it will become stronger in work, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planer knives.

Basic parameters - calculation of power, revolutions, transmission

Characteristics circular saw, engine and maximum thickness lumber that can be cut are interconnected. On the purchased circular disk, the maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The power of the motor influences the maximum allowable sawtooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times more thickness material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that for sawing materials with a thickness of 100 mm, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - when hit foreign objects under the saw, jamming of the material, the belt slips on the pulleys. Traumatism in such cases is practically excluded. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum allowable number of revolutions of the circular saw. We calculate the required diameters of the pulleys. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the shaft for the circular to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the revolutions of the engine, as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

For woodworking large volumes it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, choose a quarter. Requires a sufficiently powerful electric motor, hard table. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, it is possible to plan boards with a width of 200 mm. Applies three-phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm. Capacitors are required for connection to 220V.

1 - machine frame; 2 - panel; 3 - starter; 4 - a device for adjusting the height; 5.7 - desktop of two halves; 6 - base; 8 - engine; 9 - platform; 10 - studs M10; eleven - circular disk; 12 - shaft; 13 - stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 - driven pulley; 15 - belt; 16 - drive pulley; 17 - switch.

The working table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform, it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the rest of the sizes to fit them, but design features remain unchanged.

First, we make the bed frame from steel corners 25 × 25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another same lower frame. For a frame with a greater height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has slots for the motor platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. Tightening the studs, tighten the belts, then lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45 °. In total, eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in mirror image. We attach the crossbars to the outer racks. In the middle of each of them we drill holes, weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to control the rise.

At the end, they rest against the racks welded to the drawers assembled from the corners of 75 × 50 mm. On the side, we weld the studs into them opposite the grooves for the adjusting mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves, fastened to the tsargs with bolts with countersunk heads.The adjustment mechanism works like this:

  • loosen the nuts on the racks;
  • turn the screw that presses the stop, raising or lowering the table;
  • tighten the stud nuts;
  • perform a similar adjustment for the second half working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing the adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but as a solid one, you will need only four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It is easy to make a stationary one from a manual circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Comfortable material Finnish plywood will serve, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the blanks slide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and can be processed well. You can use ordinary plywood 20 mm, only it needs to be painted, and it is better to cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

It must be understood that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disk so as not to reduce functionality compared to portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient so that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that an electric planer and a jigsaw can be additionally strengthened on a wide table, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle on a sheet of plywood required sizes, cut out, process the edges. We apply the sole manual circular to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for a circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the countertop. This manufacturing method will bring the depth of cut closer to the circular saw indicated in the passport.

We make a frame (tsargi) from the boards, which we will install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue it to the countertop, securing it with clamps. Through the table we screw screws into the boards. The holes for them are countersinked on top so that the heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden. We fasten the legs to the sides of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts with washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a restrictive bar, equal to the length working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install a socket connected to the network on the drawer. In the break of the wire going to the saw, we mount the switch.

Some moments of the execution of home-made devices

No matter how well the circular is made, individual errors can lead to the fact that its performance will be limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. The installation of conventional is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For homemade device with constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls, adjustable by tightening the clamping nut. Install a cover to protect against dust, chips is mandatory.

On the working surface, we put a scale in centimeter increments. This will make it much easier to work with the tree when determining the width of the cut. Many neglect the installation of a protective shield over the disc, but in vain - treatment from chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with various materials often it is necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. Homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to control the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys different diameter. They are mounted on the motor shaft. If you undertake to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on the sawing machine without having 380 V. You will need capacitors rated for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 μF for a working capacitor Cf. We take the capacity of the starting Cn twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. The start is simple: SQ is turned on, SB is pressed for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

Circular saw shaft and bearing assembly

Let's look at the figure, where the shaft assembly is shown in section

Shaft (1)
bearing housing (2)
bearings (3)
inner clamping sleeve of the saw blade (4)
saw blade outer clamping sleeve (5)
clamp nut (6)
shaft driven pulley (7)
clamp nut, lock washer, key (8)

To be sharpened from steel 45. The manufacture of the shaft can only be entrusted to highly qualified specialists, where strict observance is a prerequisite technical requirements to the seating surfaces of shafts and housings according to . From the mounting side of the saw blade, sit on one diameter: bearing; clamping inner sleeve; saw blade; clamping outer sleeve, so keep this in mind when you make tolerances and fits on working drawings.

BEARING HOUSING

It is sharpened from steel 20. An M6 thread is cut in four mounting holes. Before pressing the bearings, the housing is filled with Li-tol-24 grease.

BEARINGS

1204 ball radial double row spherical . They have two rows of balls. Inner surface has a curvilinear shape. Covers can be provided in the bearing housing to protect them from dust and wood chips. But this solution, in general, will significantly complicate the design and increase it. dimensions so we won't use it.

INNER CLAMP

Let's make from steel 45

OUTER CLAMP

Let's make from steel 45

CLAMP NUT

CLAMP NUT

M16 round slotted nut in accordance with GOST 11871-88 clamps the driven pulley.

LOCK WASHER

Multi-bladed (version 2), serves to fix the nut relative to the shaft and does not allow it to unscrew during rotation.

KEY

Keyed connection with parallel keys, tolerances and fits

A circular saw is a device that is used mainly in industry, but you can find people using it in private households. Some people try to make it with their own hands. The most important part here is the shaft. Most often, the shaft for the circular is made to order. To do this, you need to contact only a highly qualified turner. Fortunately, it is not difficult to find such a thing today. However, such work will cost quite a lot. There are also alternative methods solutions to this problem. The simplest is the creation of a shaft for a circular with your own hands. Of course, this requires a lathe.

It is even possible that it will be numerically controlled. Will have to get some additional tool. Materials are indispensable here.

Tools and materials

In order to make a circular shaft with your own hands, you need to provide for the following tools and materials:

  1. incisors for various purposes. Here you will need not only a standard tool, but also a grooving cutter.
  2. Cylindrical shaft of appropriate dimensions, which will be made of steel 45.
  3. Measuring tool. In this case, you may need a clear caliper. Only with its help you can make the most accurate measurements in order to get the perfect part at the output.

Basically, this is quite enough to make a shaft for a circular. In some cases, additional measuring instruments may be required.

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Important Details

In the case of the shaft, it is worth using high-quality steel. We are talking about a material that has the numbers 45 in its name, of course. It's about steel. Be sure to work with the corresponding GOST, which describes the location of the shafts and seating surfaces. From the mounting side of the saw blade, the clamping inner sleeve, bearings and the saw blade itself sit on one surface.

As a result of the fact that there are many details, each of them will have its own landing size which is indicated on the drawing. It must be made in advance in accordance with the dimensions that this tool has. They will have to be guided by when creating a circular shaft. All clearances and landings in without fail indicated on the drawing. A vernier caliper is used for accurate measurement. It is also possible to prepare gauges with appropriate dimensions in advance. In private home conditions, it is quite difficult to find them, so often everything is limited only to a caliper.

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Manufacturing process

So, a person has all essential tool, a shaft with a specific diameter, as well as a drawing. First you need to fix the part in a lathe. Regardless of its type, a double-sided mount is used. Any lathe has a spindle. Here the shaft is attached with special clamps. On the other side is located tailstock. She presses the material from behind. Now you can move on to roughing.

For these purposes, a flow cutter is used. For roughing, rough removal is used, so there are no specific requirements for the tool. The most important thing is that it be sharp. Otherwise, burrs may form on the workpiece, and this is unacceptable. The machine is simply started, and processing proceeds according to the largest diameter.

You need to leave a small allowance.

It will be needed for finishing with a cutter.

Now you can proceed to the processing of other surfaces. Since there are a lot of seats, each of them will be processed in accordance with the drawing. It is worth working at high speeds so that the surface is as high quality and smooth as possible.

After roughing is completed, you can proceed to fine turning. An appropriate cutter is also used for these purposes. All allowances that remained earlier will have to be removed. Here you should definitely focus on the drawing dimensions. They are being processed. It is advisable to check the size after each finishing pass so that the output is really the correct workpiece.

Next comes the grooving cutter. It is used for turning special grooves for keys. There will be several of these here. They will allow you to mount a wide variety of parts on the shaft. It is imperative to cut in accordance with the dimensions that are on the drawing. After the work is completed, you can once again check all available sizes.

If necessary, you can remove the shaft, and then try to put on it the bearing and other parts that will be used. If everything is fastened normally, then we can safely state the fact that the work was done correctly, and, therefore, the circular shaft is ready for operation. Of course, additional sanding paper can be used to obtain a cleaner surface.

To process the workpiece with its help, the latter is fixed again in its position. Now a sheet is taken sandpaper, which is carried out along the shaft. In this case, the clamped workpiece must rotate. Sandpaper should be used not rough to get a mirror shine, after which the shaft can be removed from the machine. It is completely ready for installation on the circular. Of course, you will have to do a number of manipulations with other blanks so that they all fit perfectly on it.

In fact, the work is not difficult, but it is still better to turn to professionals, especially since not every person has a lathe at their disposal. Better job to produce on a machine with numerical control, so it is noticeably simplified.

Thus, the work is completed, which means that we can sum up some of its results. Now everyone knows how. In fact, everything that was described above consists in processing a simple shaft.

In some cases, it can be obtained from a bar of the appropriate diameter. All residues of the workpiece are subsequently removed. They can simply be sawn off with a hacksaw. You can also use another tool. For example, a grinder with an appropriate circle that can cut metal is ideal for these purposes. It all depends on what a person has in his workshop.


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