Painting small car parts with an airbrush. Working with an airbrush - practical advice. What do you need for an airbrush

The nail industry never ceases to amaze and delight nail lovers. The latest novelty is an airbrush for manicure. This is a miniature pneumatic sprayer, much like the ones used for airbrushing cars.

Airbrushing is the creation of small masterpieces. The master of nail art is not limited in any way in the possibility of creating compositions.

Compared to an art brush, working with an airbrush takes less time, in addition, it allows you to have a wide palette of colorants in your arsenal and draw the smallest details, getting the desired effect.

It is not necessary to be an artist to create, it is important to master the technique and techniques. Airbrush drawings on nails get deep - voluminous.

Any, even a simple drawing, acquires the effect of movement on the nails, becomes “alive”, which draws attention to the image of the owner.

In nail art, an airbrush is an indispensable device. The tool allows you to create halftones and smooth transitions, like airy ones - no brush will give such an effect.

The scheme of the airbrush is as follows:

Pour the paint into the “cup” on the tool (a few drops are enough to work with nails). Do not forget to close the container with a lid so as not to accidentally spill the coloring composition.
Before creating a design, check the operation of the tool on a piece of paper to see if there is any old paint left there. Try to hold the sprayer at a 45 degree angle - this is the most optimal slope for high-quality work (you can navigate by the location of the “cup” lid - the location in the air parallel to the surface of the table).
Press the trigger on the airbrush and draw air through the system.
Continuing to press, move the hook towards you - this action is responsible for the intensity of the paint supply. The less the trigger is pulled, the less color density.
For quality application The airbrush must be constantly in motion. As soon as the hand of the master hangs in place, the effect of a wet spot will turn out.
For thinner lines, the airbrush should be closer to the surface. The farther the sprayer is located from the nails, the softer and more transparent the transitions are, respectively, the width of the spray also increases. To make the color more intense, slow down the movements a little.

The scheme of work is quite simple, you just need to practice a little on paper and tips. Having adapted, you can master the nails.

When using an airbrush for nails, you can not only control the amount of dye sprayed, but also air. It is convenient because only by slightly moving the pedal of the device, you can create a design with filigree precision.

Color saturation and depth can be adjusted. Variable: clarity, thickness of lines and contours. If necessary, they can always be changed.

To change the color and for the airbrush to serve the shaft for a long time, it is necessary to rinse it after each use. For this it is necessary special agent- thinner for airbrush paint.

The flushing scheme of the device is simple:

We merge the remaining paint from the "cup".
Pour a special solvent into the container - about half.
Take a large napkin or scrap of cloth, attach it tightly to the airbrush nozzle (where the paint comes out) and press the air supply - bubbles will appear in the solvent. Now you can move the airbrush away from the cloth and rinse the equipment by pulling the trigger on yourself (as when working with paint spraying) until the “cup” is empty. The quality of the wash can be seen from the transparency of the solvent sprayed onto the napkin - it became transparent, which means the wash was successful (if there was a lot of paint in the airbrush, two or three washes may be needed).

Frequent use of the airbrush will require more thorough rinsing. To do this, unscrew the rotary part of the spray gun - where the needle is located. The unscrewed part of the nozzle is also subject to washing.

The subtleties of drawing a picture with an airbrush:

We do standard nail treatment, cover with primer and base.
Applying gel polish standard scheme. We remove stickiness from nails for future design.
We firmly apply the stencil with a pattern to the nail - we spray the paint with the required intensity. For example, you can create an ombre effect paint job. Start spraying at a low color density and increase towards the end of the coloring.
Upon completion, the nail is covered with a finishing layer.

Airbrush design on nails - colorful dust

The exquisite design of the nail plate takes no more than 30 minutes in the hands of an experienced master.

Airbrush will help:

apply a geometric print;
get strict and clear straight contours;
achieve unusual color combinations with the effect of a moving image;
get new tones and color transitions.

The simplest, but airbrushed and new "sounding" design - airbrush gradient on nails.

It is easy to beat the trendy direction of ombre with the device in a couple of minutes. It is almost impossible to achieve such deep tones, visual volume through standard application.

Two types of design are most widely used: painting over and creating a halo.

In the first case, stencils for nails are used, painting with an airbrush can be dense, ombre or air haze.
In the second version, the drawing itself remains unpainted, and the spraying comes from its contours.

Having mastered the tool, the nail artist will be able to create complex compositions, combine the ability to apply paint and play with layers and color.

Some skilled craftsmen, having mastered the apparatus, create pictures on their nails no worse than in art galleries. Painting nails with an airbrush only at first glance it is difficult, over time the hand will fill up and experience will take its toll.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

How to choose an airbrush for nails

How to navigate the range of devices and accessories for it?

If everything is more or less clear with regard to stencils - the more choice the master has, the larger his audience, and you need to be guided in the choice not only to your taste, but also to fashion trends, then buying the airbrush itself raises many questions.

A standard airbrush kit consists of a compressor, hose and airbrush.

Sometimes paints, tips and stencils can be included in the kit, but this is not such an important component - consumables can always be purchased separately, choosing the necessary ones for yourself.

Airbrush models differ in a number of important factors:

Type of action: 1.Simple (the flow of paint is not regulated, the amount exactly corresponds to that which is necessary to cover one nail); 2. Double (the design provides for adjusting the supply of paint, that is, it is possible to independently adjust the thickness of the lines) such a device should be preferred for high-quality work.
By type of spray: external (air and paint are mixed outside the device); internal (mixing inside the airbrush is provided, that is, it is possible to achieve a line of any desired length).
The location of the container for the coloring composition: on the side, top or bottom does not matter. The result of the work does not depend on the location in any way - nail masters prefer a “barrel” for paint on top.

compressor - responsible for air pressure, for this, the operation of the sprayer is checked (for a good airbrush, the jet is uniform, and the resulting spot has the correct shape);
torch adjustment (a miniature device designed to change the pressure in an airbrush);
the degree of ink supply (needle stroke in order to reduce or increase the ink supply);
how soft and smooth the control lever works;
nozzle and needles (after the ink supply is completed, they should remain clean, without drops).

For example, let's analyze an inexpensive airbrush model. Chinese origin, which is very popular with nail masters - Jas nail airbrush.

It meets the optimal parameters:

Small nozzle - 0.2 mm;
Paint container with a volume of 2 ml;
Equipped with a small low-noise compressor. It is worth noting that not expensive models do not have an air flow stabilizer, as a result of which they can spit paint.

Separately, you must purchase a hose 1.5-3 meters long.

For those who want to professionally engage in airbrushing, you should purchase a complete set of equipment, including:

a compressor with low power (it is also selected based on weight, noise performance and performance, as well as the class of the gun) is a gas pump that supplies dye under pressure;
an automatic gun with a micro nozzle, which is equipped with a tank for acrylic paint;
coloring emulsion of basic tones;
several rubber hoses for connecting the gun and the compressor;
tips (not always available, but for beginners it is better to buy with them for training);
special liquid for washing the device.

What do you need for an airbrush

Airbrush paints for nails are used diluted acrylic on water based. Coloring composition the consistency should resemble milk, otherwise it will clog the nozzle.

Among popular brands, experienced craftsmen note that AirNails paints have an increased concentration of pigment and have good hiding power. It dries quickly and doesn't crack. Another brand in demand is SP-NAIL COLOR, it is ready to use, non-toxic, the colors mix well, allowing you to create bright or muted patterns.

The second most important tool of the master is a stencil, it helps to create an image on the nail plate. Airbrush stencils for nails are sold in ready-made sets, or one at a time.

They can be reusable or disposable. Disposable are made of paper on glue base, they can be replaced paper tape or real lace.

There are disposable vinyl stencils on sale, they are tightly attached and paint does not flow under them. The downside is that they cannot be reused, which means you have to spend money again.

For airbrushing, stencils are available in the form geometric shapes, ribbons, zigzags, floral motifs depicting animals, lace.

In fact, the first model is usually not painted, so we go straight to the second step in the development of the modeler - by the time he first thought that a pile of "naked" plastic, decorated with "decals", is somehow not very beautiful ...

Part 1. Essentials

The very first thing a modeler needs to start finishing models is money. Much money. So much money. Regardless of what and in what ways you will paint, you need the following things:

1. Actually, the paints themselves (or enamels)

Paint is something that cannot be dissolved or washed off with something just like that. The ceilings in the apartment, for example, are being painted water-based paints, dilute them with water, and after drying, you will wipe off their figs. Enamels - they can be washed off, and easily, with their own solvent. An example is watercolor paints, dissolve with water, and then wash off with water. Models are painted with both, you can not get hung up on this for now; later in the article they will be, both of them, just “paints”, but if necessary, they will be highlighted.

On various forums, you can find fierce debates “which paints are better”, strong arguments are given, sometimes it will come to a fight ... Do not get involved in such discussions - firstly, if you have not worked with this, then your subjective opinion is only “ will add fuel to the fire”, and secondly, “every cricket praises his hearth”, and each modeler works with those paints and varnishes that he could get and which he managed to get used to.

So what paint should you choose?

If you have a family Small child, then nitro paints will not suit you - they have a very pungent smell. In this case, you should pay attention to a number of water-based or acrylic paints. If you see the inscription “Diluted with water” or “Diluted with alcohol” on a paint bottle, know that these are your paints. If you have an extractor hood and everyone is calm about the smell of the solvent, then you can choose nitro-paints - they are easier to use, but they are worse washed off your hands. It is also easy to “burn through” transparent parts with nitro paints and ruin plastic. Both cost about the same.

For painting almost all models, the following paints are required:

White
Black
Silver

The remaining paints required for a particular model can be purchased gradually, as needed. Remember, never mix paints different manufacturers or paints on a different basis (nitro and water, for example) to obtain the desired color, the paints may deteriorate!

As a rule, one jar is enough for 2-3 models (if airbrushed) and 1 model for painting with a brush, or 8-10 sets of soldiers. At the same time, the model is average, such as an aircraft on a scale of 1:72, or a tank or soldiers on a scale of 1:35. For the airbrush there are also special paints, very liquid, but it’s better not to buy them yet - they are not suitable for a brush; in jars, the paint is universal. Hence the difference in paint consumption - when using an airbrush, the paint is diluted, it "gets bigger" and is enough for more models.

2. Ground

This is a liquid applied to the model, which prevents the paint from falling off the model after drying. For nitro paints and water-based paints, the primers are different, and they cannot be changed.

There is one more nuance. If, when painting with a brush, you put nitro paint on plastic, then it slightly dissolves this plastic, “bites in”, and the primer is not really needed; then when painting with water-soluble paints, a primer is always necessary - water does not dissolve plastic, and the paint will collect on the surface with droplets. This phenomenon is called " adhesion", i.e. simplistically "wettability", or the ability of something to spread evenly over any surface. If you don’t believe me, then try plain water to evenly “paint the plastic”. When painting with an airbrush, a primer is always necessary, regardless of the type of paint - the paint falls on the surface already "at the end" in small portions, and it simply does not have enough strength to normally "eat" the plastic and "stick" to it.

3. Varnish

Varnish is necessary so that your model will please your eyes for a long time, and you could easily, for example, after a holiday and a public show of your achievements, go and wash the model under the tap without fear of ruining the decals (decals) and paint. Varnishes are also nitro- and water-soluble. If you painted with nitro paints, then the varnish can be nitro or acrylic (water or alcohol soluble); if you painted with water-soluble paints, then nitrolac can ruin everything, the surface will “swell up” and “rise”. In addition, when using water-soluble acrylic paints, almost every layer should be varnished with varnish - these paints are extremely delicate. Usually companies that produce water-soluble paints also produce varnishes for these paints, so be sure to buy.

Primer, varnish and paint are also sold in aerosol cans. You can buy for both models and cars - as long as the color matches. They do not need a solvent, they are already divorced. But this is for extreme people with a big wallet - an expense paintwork material large, and in the apartment, in addition to the model, you will paint everything that will be located "in the line of fire" of the can.

4. Solvent

Everything is simple here - take what is written on the paint. On the initial stage this will save you a lot of hassle. Later, when you have experience and a bunch of unnecessary paint cans, you can start experimenting, buying "third-party" solvents, etc. As well as for varnishes, manufacturers must also produce a solvent (sometimes called a thinner) for their paints. If it says “Diluted with water”, then you can safely dilute it with boiled, and preferably distilled, if you get it. It is not recommended to dilute raw from a tap or a spring, after all, there are a lot of all sorts of salts, minerals, etc.

5. Wash

Unlike the wash used by modellers in the sense of “aging the model”, technical wash is a liquid that is used to wash brushes, tools, hands, furniture, etc. etc. after painting. As a wash, you can use the same solvent with which you diluted the paint, or you can buy a special one. If you painted with enamels, then you can wash it off with a solvent, and if you painted with paints, then it is better to use a special wash. It is better to wash the tool immediately after work is completed, otherwise you will be tormented to clean off the dried paint later.

6. Container

As a rule, the paints in the jar are thick, and these jars are sold filled "to the eyeballs". To work with a brush, paint can be dripped into beer or vodka caps, solvent can be dripped there, mixed and painted with this. After painting, you don’t need to throw away the cap - firstly, you will accumulate a palette over time, according to which you can select the right shade for a particular model.

Secondly, in this cap you can dilute the same paint again (if you try to dilute another, they can mix up and get a different shade), and thirdly, if you painted with enamel and you happen to accidentally scratch on old model but there is no paint, you can try to dilute what is left in the lid and “cover it up” with this. I also recommend that you go to the pharmacy or walk around your house and ask the old women for glass medicine vials. Rest assured, they will be immensely happy if you offer them a monetary reward for each bottle. For you, who buys paint (and one jar costs at least two loaves of bread), it will not be expensive at all, and for them, in modern world, will be very necessary. If you are shy, then go to the pharmacy and buy the cheapest medicines in the required container. At the moment, for the price of one can of paint, you can buy a dozen vials of Naphthyzin.

Part 2. Choosing a coloring method

The vast majority of modellers can be divided into two opposing camps - those who paint with a brush and those who paint with an airbrush. We will not go into such heated discussions about who is stronger - an elephant or a whale, but let's try to figure out how they differ and what we need.

Now it doesn’t matter to us how we will paint - the main thing for us is to get beautiful model so that next time they don’t tell us “You’re doing daub again.” For the first time, buy a model that practically does not need to be painted - the kit comes with multi-colored plastic. Manufacturers who produce models of cars and ships especially like to indulge in this. If you see a large, beautiful, non-Russian box with a typewriter or a sailing boat, then most likely there is multi-colored plastic, although it is better to consult with the seller. You just have to glue it and slightly tint it with a brush to heighten the effect. But you can say "I painted!" and continue their difficult path in further improving the finishing of models.

Done? Have you received the consent of your family (mothers, fathers, wives, children, etc.) to continue the experiments? We move on - we buy a model that needs to be painted EVERYTHING. FROM and TO.

When painting large surfaces, it is already worth considering - to paint with a brush or an airbrush? The first way is cheaper and more accessible; but the second one is prettier, faster and more expensive. When painting with brushes, you only need brushes, and when painting with an airbrush, you need an airbrush and an air compressor. Take a sheet of glass and try to paint it with a brush so that it is even, without bumps and streaks. Happened? Then you don't need an airbrush, keep up the good work. If it doesn't work, try again. Doesn't work even after the tenth time? You are hopeless, you will have to buy an airbrush... Or aerosol cans, for the first time.

Have you chosen what color to paint? If with a brush, then buy brushes, all kinds and different, tasty and sweet, squirrel and kolinsky, large and small, round and flat ... If with a spray can, buy the right colors. If airbrush - then airbrush and compressor. In the last two cases, you will also need a hood. Although the prices of the last two methods will be equal by the end of the first year, and in the future the airbrush will start to get cheaper.

Part 3. Assembling the model for painting

First, carefully review the assembly instructions. As a rule, it is compiled in such a way that the model remains unfinished after assembly. How? It's very simple - after gluing the last piece you can't paint in most places.

Therefore, we CAREFULLY study every detail and evaluate where we can climb after gluing, and where we cannot. If we can, then we glue it, if not, then we paint it first, and then we glue it.
For figures, you can glue everything except weapons, for armored vehicles - everything except wheels, caterpillars, boxes, shovels, crowbars, etc .; we also glue and paint the cabin first. As a rule, after gluing the body, it is no longer possible to reach the steering wheel, seats and pedals with a brush. For models aircraft there is no need to glue weapons, landing gear, antennas - they are painted separately from the fuselage, wings, etc. Choose the time for painting the cabin to the best of your ability: you can paint separately and carefully insert - paint separately.

Each model is individual, so be guided by your experience, ingenuity and luck - you can always tear it off and redo it, there can be no unambiguous recommendations here. But if you are afraid to spoil everything, it is better to buy two identical models, train on the first one, and do the second one already focusing on the mistakes of the first one.

Part 4. Finishing the model.

There is a certain sequence that should be followed if you want to get a beautiful model.

1. Surface preparation

It is well known that paint adheres better on a rough surface than on a polished one. However, a rough surface on a small model significantly degrades its appearance. Therefore, before applying the first layer of paintwork material, the model should be made as smooth as possible, and we will achieve the reliability of the coating in another way. in a tricky way, which we will discuss below.

Most modellers smooth the model with sandpaper. If you buy the skin not in model stores, then take M40 and smaller. If in model stores, then they will offer you a ready-made set of skins there, it is more expensive, but there is less headache. Take the skin, soak it in water and rub the model until you erase the glue seams and glue-stained parts to such an extent that they are not noticeable to the touch.

The skin should be changed from time to time to a smaller one until you have skinned the smallest model you have. If the model has a lot of protruding small parts, such as rivets, imitation of the joints of skin sheets, etc., then you will suffer for a long time. This is not scary - do not hesitate to admit that you have been sanding one model for half a year. Firstly, it will emphasize your patience, and secondly, it will emphasize that you are thoughtful about modeling, and not a fluff. In the future, you will find a lot of good things in yourself, and your family will be immensely happy that you don’t drink away your salary, don’t hang around at night, don’t cheat on your wife or just your girlfriend (once simple), and you grow golden hands. Or at least they pretend...

After you have sanded everything, the details of the model must be planted somewhere (usually called a mandrel) so as not to paint your hands, and after painting, do not hold the details until dry. Very rarely, the sprues of a model are designed in such a way that you can paint parts without cutting them off the sprues, so everything that your eye falls on can be used - toothpicks, the same sprues from models, ice cream sticks, etc. It is necessary to glue the part to these mandrels in the place where it will then be glued to the model. After that, the mandrel must be stuck somewhere so that the part does not touch anything. For the first time, you can put the mandrel on the edge of the table and press it with a book, and for the future, come up with a board with a bunch of holes into which you will insert the mandrels, like pencils in a cup of a desktop writing instrument.

Planted? Everything, the details can no longer be touched by hands.

2. Degreasing

In order for paintwork materials to hold better, the model must be degreased. You can use everything that comes to hand - soap, fairies, gasoline ... Everything that dissolves fat. It is best, of course, to degrease with a thin layer of alcohol, but where can you get so much of it? Don't know how to degrease with alcohol? Take a sip, breathe on the cotton wool, and with this cotton wool, in a thin layer, wipe the model. Yes, it's a pity that the alcohol quickly ran out, and the model is not even half fat-free ...

Well, after degreasing, you need to remove all traces of the degreaser - if alcohol or gasoline, then it will dry itself, and if soap, fairies or some other kitchen chemicals, then you need to rinse the model under running water and put it to dry. The main thing - do not touch the model with your hands. If you see a mote or hair, brush it off with a fat-free brush.

3. Primary priming

In fact, the need for priming has already been said, but it’s better to repeat: “A primer is such a liquid applied to a model that prevents the paint from falling off this model after drying.” If you don't want to prime, please don't. Just conduct an experiment - apply primer on a piece of sprue from this model, let it dry, and then paint the sprue covered with primer and not coated at the same time. Let the paint dry, and then try scratching it with your fingernail. If there is a difference, then do what is best. If there is no difference, then it may be true, the primer on this model, for this paint, with this method of applying paintwork material, is redundant.

Apply protective covering into transparent parts. Typically this is for masking tape. The protective coating will come off after the final varnishing, (or the last coat of paint if you don't want to varnish it). After that, evenly apply primer to the model. If you planted a drop of soil, do not wash it, but wait for it to dry and proceed to the next step.

4. Intermediate grinding

If you are not satisfied with the smoothness of the surface after priming, then intermediate sanding is your chance to fix it. Take the finest sandpaper you have and grind the soil. At this stage, the shortcomings made during the preparation of the surface for applying the primer are already becoming noticeable. If you have a drip from the ground- We also grind it. If you got carried away and sanded the soil to the plastic, then the priming operation in this place will have to be repeated.

5. Final priming

If you used intermediate grinding, then you just need to perform this operation. Firstly, with its help, you finally cover the entire surface, and secondly, you finally make sure that the evenness of the surface satisfies you (at this stage, you kind of imitate the application of paint). If the surface does not satisfy you (skin marks are visible), then either you sanded with a very coarse sandpaper, or you missed something during intermediate sanding. Troubleshooting - Repeat steps 4 and 5 again, reducing the grain size of the skin and increasing the duration of the sanding process.

6. Applying the main tone

Look carefully at the paint scheme and figure out which color zones are larger (by area). This will be the main tone. The exception is bright hues- yellow, silver, red, blue, light grey, etc. If the main tone is light, then it is best to paint the entire model with white paint first (on it light colors look brighter), and only then apply the main tone. The main tone can be painted over the entire model, provided that it is not red. It is not worth blowing out the model with one run, it is better to apply several thin layers. If you work with water-soluble acrylic paints, then after applying the last layer, you should cover the model with a colorless varnish.

At this stage, the risks from the skin become even more noticeable. If you do not want to see them, repeat steps 4 and 6. If at the same time you again sanded the paint and primer to the plastic, then you must follow steps 4, 5, 6; at the same time, point 5 is not performed on the entire model, but only in those places where you have reached the plastic.

7. Applying camouflage

With a careless movement of a brush or airbrush, you can ruin the entire appearance model, so be careful with this operation. In general, each modeler applies camouflage in his own way, but there are a few rules that everyone adheres to. Here they are: light tones are applied first, then dark ones; non-working (not painted) areas are covered with masks (anything - from a piece of paper and adhesive tape to all sorts of special fluids). Also, as when applying the main tone, it is not worth painting the model in one go, it is better to apply several thin layers. If you work with water-soluble acrylic paints, then after applying the last layer, you should cover the model with a colorless varnish. If the camouflage is multi-color, then varnish should be varnished after each application of color.

8. Finishing

Here you can do what you want - assemble the model, apply decals, age, wash off ... There are no strict recommendations at this stage - every man for himself, everyone builds what he wants and how he can. Sometimes it's more convenient to apply decals and then glue, and sometimes glue and then apply decals. Only now it is best to age after - in order to age both the model and the decal at the same time.

The main thing - if you apply varnish after all this, then do not remove the masks (protective coating) from the transparent parts. Otherwise, transparency may be lost from varnish, especially if it is nitrolac. Although matte varnish on glass is also not good enough ...

Part 5. Conclusion

If you carefully read the entire article - you can do modeling! The most important thing is patience, and the rest will follow. Modeling - it is so, it takes a lot of time ...

30.06.2016

Painting models with an airbrush can be both auxiliary in the form of blowing the base, and performing detailing without using a brush. It is also possible to apply primer and varnish without excess dust and dirt with an “air brush”, this frees from smudges and uneven paint application, overspending of material, and also makes the work much finer and easier. Perhaps the main advantage of airbrushing is the creation of smooth color transitions.

If an advanced modeller goes further and does not stop at the level of blowing out the base with an airbrush, all chiaroscuro, highlights, dots and small details can be drawn with an airbrush. However, the accuracy of the tool in this case should be higher level. As well as the craftsmanship of the author.

Preparing the model for painting

As with any work with plastic or metal, the surface must first be prepared before painting:

matting - the formation of adhesion due to the application of the smallest sanding abrasives with a grain value of 1500 or 2000;
degreasing - before applying the pattern, it is required to degrease the surface using a universalanti-silicone cleaner and special wipes for degreasing , because possible touching the surface with your hands or other ways of getting fat on it;
priming - is applied after the surface has acquired an even matte shade without irregularities, possibly even in several layers.

Painting models with an airbrush - applying the base

The base is applied over the primer with repeated movements in layers with a thin spray. That is, you need to press the airbrush trigger down with each wave of your hand, opening the way for the air flow and pressing air valve, then pull the lever towards you, letting the paint out.

If you just press the trigger once down and back and drive back and forth near the surface, the paint will lay down with air bubbles and bumps, forming a "shagreen". Therefore, when applying the base layer, you should not rush, it is better to work thinly and in layers. You can immediately place accents on chiaroscuro, based on the logic of where the light comes from, where the tone will be denser and darker.

Those areas that need to be painted in a different color and protected from possible dusting can be covered with masking tape or very thin vinyl contour tape.

Features of working with acrylic paints

When painting models with an airbrush, the quality of the paint, its hiding power, dispersion and other properties matter. Among the paints for modeling, enamels and water-acrylic paints stand out. Enamels have a number of advantages:

metallics look more realistic;
transparent enamels are able to create a candy effect, like on real cars, if the task requires it;
all enamels lay down and are fixed on a surface better, than acryle.

Painting models with acrylic paints is overwhelming due to the fact that all the advantages of enamel are usually crossed out at home by a rather pungent smell. Having a wide palette in the rulers, with a water-acrylic ruler, there may be problems with breeding for beginners in modeling. Especially with a small stroke of the trigger on the needle, acrylic particles quickly harden and quickly clog the nozzle, so it is better to dilute the paint to the state of "milk". As a thinner, you can use vodka or branded thinner from the manufacturer (airbrush thinner). If, after thinning, the paint continues to clog thin nozzles with a diameter of 0.15-0.2 mm, a retarder medium can help.

When choosing the right airbrush, you can rely on the following rule:

0.15-0.3 mm - airbrush drawing of camouflage and other subtleties using the "free" hand method;
0.35-0.5 mm - applying the base layer, priming and varnishing the model. Because an airbrush with a narrower nozzle is extremely inconvenient to breed primers and varnishes, which are always thicker in consistency.

The problem of density and possible sticking on the needle is especially relevant when painting models with acrylic paints. And when breeding, they can lose their original qualities. Also, the soil may turn out to be coarse-grained, forming a hard-to-wash film on a thin diameter.

After painting the models with an airbrush and completing work with acrylic rulers, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the tool with the same vodka or alcohol, if the case is already running and there are old particles of dried paint left, washing liquid will help soak and wash them clean.

If, after the stage of painting models, the airbrush is clogged, disassembly video to the last bolt will save from possible breakage of spare parts. Although it is better not to bring it to a major blockage and purge the tool immediately after work with alcohol or washing.

Painting a tank with an airbrush

It is almost impossible to get a uniformly painted surface of a model with a brush or a sponge, the level can go off scale for such work. Some paints can be applied exclusively by airbrush. Camouflage stripes on the tank are drawn at a small pressure from 1.2 to 1.4 bar. The thinner you need to create a line, the less you need to press the trigger of the airbrush and draw closer to the surface, with a thickness of hair, you can even remove the protective cap of the needle from the airbrush, making the drawing using the “open” needle method. It is better to keep the airbrush nozzle normal to the surface so that the edges of the camouflage are not created too blurry. When painting a tank model with an airbrush, the tool cannot be kept in one place near the surface, it is better to make movements along the contour of the model.

As a rule, the annotations to the model indicate the exact colors with paint numbers for each manufacturer. You can rely on this, choosing the right colors, or just pick up similar analogues and color them.

The law of aerial perspective - based on the scaling of the model: objects that are quite far away are as if clarified by the thickness of the air, as if they are under a blue light filter. We multiply the number of meters through which we observe the model and see it in its entirety by the scale. On the resulting% highlight all the colors.

Washes, special effects, decals and other tricks of modeling

You can show additional volume with the help of the correct toning of the model, i.e. emphasizing the relief and texture of the surface by darkening the recesses and highlighting the upper parts with highlights. washes - These are liquid diluted paints with a reduced content of pigment, which flow into depressions and cracks. When the wash dries, the excess is removed with a cotton pad. It is important to pay attention to chemical composition remover, which may contain solvents and attack the acrylic painted surface layer.

Dry brush method- light pigment or slow drying paint is rubbed into the base coat in the lightest areas. The brush should carry a minimum coloring effect, so it should be wiped dry initially.

Decals- a technique for applying decals, most often used to transfer symbols or attributes to various kinds troops in modeling. The decal may look whitish due to air bubbles remaining between the decal and model. Most often this occurs when blowing the model with matte varnish. Therefore, there is a reason to cover the places reserved for decals separately with a glossy varnish. General leveling can be done by blowing the surface with a final coat of matte varnish.

Dirt and drip effects

The tank, being part of military equipment, is subject to the effect of corrosion, is constantly in the dirt and oil drips. Over time, the effect of "weathering" of paint from the surface occurs.

Painting a tank model with an airbrush step by step:

covering the tank model with the main color;
highlighting the most rubbing surfaces of the model using paint a few tones lighter than the base;
in life, after a short operation, a dark film of dirt and smudges forms around the most protruding moments on the details of the tank, which accumulates in all the recesses of the model. You need to realistically reproduce these moments, which will help black wash. Also, with the help of it, it will be possible to level the dark and light transitions. Black wash highlights small details of the tank - welds, bolts and rivets, etc.;
Surface Gloss - Gloss makes protruding parts even more protruding and makes the surface look like painted steel instead of plastic. You can add a glossy varnish to the paint mixture, or blow it over the paint;
The lower part of the tank's hull can be covered with a simulated earth effect.

Weathering -an effect that gives any military equipment more realism. When performed correctly, it helps to hide the "jambs" of painting, with inept handling or overdoing it spoils the appearance of the work and nullifies the result of the first stages of coloring. Also weathering focuses on the small details of the model. To give realism during weathering, the modeler must reproduce for himself the conditions in which the equipment was located (climatic and natural corrosion, historical and military).

Weathering steps:

imitation of scratches and chips on the surface -manual application of wear with a piece of sprue with a slight bend at the tip. Then paint is applied to all edges and corners of the models, preferably oil-based. The number and depth of scratches and chips depends on the background of the tank model, based on the historical context or personally invented theme. However, the scratched fenders should be much stronger than the top of the hull and turret of the tank. For more realism, in addition to the edges, you can scratch lightly, as a continuation of the traces, and the surface nearby. It is better not to forget about the scratches inflicted along the hull, fenders, which appear from the passage of obstacles and blockages by the tank. At the end of this stage, after thorough drying, you can walk with a black slate pencil through the center of scratches and cracks, but selectively, and not all over.
imitation of dirt and dust -many modellers usually just take filtered earth, moss and in one- acrylic paints with shades of the earth, PVA and water are mixed in and applied to the model. This is followed by a day-long drying. It is most logical to apply dirt to the bottom of the hull and caterpillar elements. The main thing is not to overdo it.
flush -the wash applied in several layers helps to achieve a more realistic effect. The model is covered with a wash with a brush in a thin layer. The movements of the brush go in one direction: on vertical and inclined ones - from top to bottom, on horizontal ones - from the center to the edge. After applying the first layer of wash, you can take a wider brush and work on flat surfaces, and not just flow into depressions and cavities. After a short drying time of 10-15 minutes, you can remove excess wash with a brush. You can also complete this step with a third layer at the bottom of the case.
osv decay e- brush bristles with value No. 00 cut off, then paint is applied to it in the color of light earth, then wiped with a napkin. And using the “dry” brush method, walk along the lower part of the body.
fresh dirt and track installation.

is your guide to the world of scale simulation!

Everyone who has decided to come seriously and for a long time to the world of large-scale modeling strives to constantly improve their skills and craftsmanship. Otherwise, the work stops, ceases to bring pleasure. None of us wants to lag behind our colleagues in the shop, and give bad results.

When behind you have enough modeling experience - finding new solutions and increasing your efficiency in achieving the goal (building a high-quality model) is quite simple. This is already an established trend, moving along a given trajectory, and having grown inertia.

It is quite another matter if you are a newbie . There is no experience or it is still small. There are also few friends to consult with. And it’s hard to find cool specialists, and it’s scary to approach them.

But it takes a lot to improve your skills. We already understand this. Since they reassembled a bunch of models in a simple basic "out of the box" version. We took a model, glued it according to the instructions, painted it with what we had. Those. brush. Yes, with paints from the Star, which are available in gift sets from this company.

After all, not everyone locality there is a store specializing in the sale of goods for poster modeling. And even more so, not everywhere there are large-scale modeling clubs.

WE HAVE REACHED THE LIMIT IN OUR DEVELOPMENT

We need a step that will allow us to make a qualitative leap forward. This step is the purchase of an airbrush. Mastering work with it, getting the first results. Moreover, this can be done not on the model. And on paper as a creative experiment. But that's all in the future.

Now we have a simple task

BUYING AN AIRBRUSH FOR MODELING

But before entering the pages of some online store and ordering for yourself, you need to get basic knowledge about it. In general, before embarking on any business in life, you need to collect available information about the future. Study the materiel. And then future actions will be conscious and purposeful. Will bring the desired result.

EXACTLY IN THIS YOU, DEAR COLLEAGUES, AND OUR NEW MATERIAL WILL HELP YOU

Now we will outline to you the basic knowledge of what an airbrush is for modeling. What are the varieties and technical features. What you need to pay attention to when buying.

So, let's begin…

What is an airbrush for modeling?

airbrush- This technical device, which is used to apply paint by spraying it through a stream of air. Initially, the airbrush was used among graphic designers, but now this technique has become widespread among scale modellers. Airbrushes used by modelers are classified according to several criteria.

1) By type of action:

They are single or double acting.

2) By spray type:

There are only two of them: with internal or external spraying

3) By type of paint supply:

Submission is carried out from the lower, side or upper zone of the airbrush.

Airbrush for single action modeling ( single action) the button opens only the air supply, the paint from the tank is supplied in a precisely defined amount, set by the factory parameters. Airbrushes of this design are the cheapest on the market, but it is generally accepted that it has less ability to control the flow of paint. Accordingly, the results achieved with a single action airbrush are good primarily for beginners.

Airbrush for modelling, double action ( double action) pressing the button opens the air supply, and moving the button back regulates the flow of paint from the tank into the air stream. Such an airbrush allows you to control the thickness of the line and the amount of paint without interrupting the workflow. But it is more difficult to master. Its price is also much higher than a single action airbrush.

This also includes spray guns, in which the supply of air and paint has a predetermined ratio. Adjustment is carried out by moving the button in one direction.

Now it is necessary to say a few words about the type of spray paint. Airbrush with external spray ( external mix) paint and air are mixed outside the device. As you already understand, these airbrushes for modeling are in the lower price group, as they do not allow you to form a thin “torch” of paint spray.

Airbrush with internal spray ( internal mix) mixes paint and air inside the airbrush itself, which allows you to get any thickness of the “torch”, and the best (fine) spray of paint particles.

The parameters discussed above are directly related to the results obtained on the model. But the third parameter - the paint container does not carry such an important semantic load. This most likely refers to personal preferences in the convenience of work. The container can be attached to the bottom, top and side of the airbrush for modeling.

Airbrush with bottom paint supply. The paint is released into the stream due to its suction from the tank due to the rarefaction created by the passing air stream. Reservoir with the corresponding tube is stuck into the nozzle in the lower part of the body of the airbrush for modeling.

This arrangement has an undeniable advantage: a quick change of paint - mixed paints in several cans, and if necessary, change to the one you need. Don't forget to clean your airbrush when changing colors. Disadvantages: a loosely attached tank can fall off at the most inopportune moment; necessary high blood pressure inlet air.

side feed airbrush. Storage tankwith paint is installed in the nozzle on the side of the airbrush body. It can be deployed however you want. So you can paint even on the ceiling without the risk that the paint will spill; we can change the paint just as quickly as with the bottom feed.

Modeling airbrush with side feed

You just need to use large jars as a reservoir. They can be purchased separately as accessories. The disadvantage of these airbrush models for modeling is an asymmetric weight balance. Can be stressful at work.

Top feed airbrush. paint tanklocated at the top of the airbrush body. The paint enters the channel on its own, due to its own weight. This airbrush is good for painting small things, since you can reduce the compressor pressure to at least 4-6 units.

In general, it is universal and robust construction. Airbrush for modeling with top paint supply is the most comfortable option in terms of ergonomics. But you can’t draw them on the ceiling. Its maintenance is somewhat more complicated than in the case of bottom and side feed. Slightly slower paint change.

AIRBRUSH FOR MODELING: PURPOSE OF PURCHASE

So, after we figured out in general terms design features airbrushes, it's time to realize the most important thing: " Why do we actually need an airbrush? » . Need to find out what types of work you will be doing? Accurate? With narrow thin lines and strokes? Or more areal?

Let's find out the purpose of the airbrush, and its advantage over working with a brush .

The main advantage of an airbrush over a brush is uniformity coating the surface with a layer of paint. Here, of course, one can argue. There are masters who are good with the brush, knowledgeable features paints, and getting no less flat surface. But working with an airbrush, getting a decent result is easier, and what is important for most, much faster. Those. uniformity and speed coloring is the main advantage of the airbrush. It will give you a more accessible result if you are a beginner.

AIRBRUSH FOR MODELING: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW WHEN YOU BUY

At the moment, my dear friend, you should have a very clear understanding of what an airbrush is for modeling, what it is eaten with, what tasks it can be used to solve. And you definitely decided to buy. Well then, we will give you the last instructions that will help you choose exactly what you need.

When buying, you should be guided by 3 parameters:

1) FIRM

The choice of a company producing airbrushes is a personal task, a purely intimate one. Someone prefers the most expensive and well-known on the market, like Apple and Mercedes-Benz. Someone does not think about brands, and takes what they have. Fortunately, the choice is now huge. Every whim for your money. Only here there is one small pitfall. Almost all airbrushes from the cheap segment are exact copies of more expensive models, produced under license. All their difference lies in the quality of materials, culture and precision of production. That is why expensive Iwata and H&S a priori work much more stably and for a long time than Jas.

The company values its name, therefore it does not cheapen on the metal from which the airbrush needle is made. Withstands technological gaps in seals, and so on. Therefore, the operation of a more expensive model is much cheaper than that of a cheap one. It's like buying cheap Chinese slippers and changing them every week because the soles wear out.

2) PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS

I spoke about exploitation in the paragraph above. But I will repeat again. If you want to work long and steadily, you have financial opportunities - take expensive airbrushes for modeling. Like Iwata. You should also provide for the availability of repair kits, the purchase of spare parts (gaskets, needles, injectors) just for you. If you have a store in the city, go there and ask the sellers for advice. Do not take rare models. At one fine moment, a breakdown will happen - and you will get up. Perhaps for a long time. I speak from my own experience. Consider the interchangeability of parts from different airbrushes.

3) FINANCE

Often, our finances influence our choices. So if you're up for tweaking and looking for spare parts for your airbrush, grab something cheap like Inked, Fengda, Jas, Sumake (in descending order of quality). You can choose a model that is a copy of the road. So you can easily rearm in the future, without the need for training. If you can afford more expensive models, take a look at the Taiwanese Aero Pro and Sparmax. At a fairly low price, their quality is already better than that of mainland China. Sparmax DH 103 is not inferior to Hansa 381.

Well, if money question you don’t really care - you need to make a choice already in the expensive price segment, comparing and taking into account the purpose of the purchase, the availability of spare parts, personal preferences.

ANOTHER ADVICE

If you have an airbrush store in town, and that's not just a scale model shop, do your research locally. In the reality. Choose a few samples based on the previous tips.

And then…

Take and hold each of them in your hands. Rotate it, try to draw. Without paint, of course. See how each of them will lie in your hand. How does he impress you. And buy the one you like best.

Remember, a modeling airbrush is supposed to be fun.

Well, if you do not have such an opportunity, and you buy through an online store, rely on your intuition. Your first airbrush is like trying a pen for the first time. It's just an experience to start with. Don't be afraid to experiment.

SCALE SIMULATION IS PURE EXPERIMENT

And that's all for today. Good luck to you! And great models!

P.S. Dear colleagues! Leave comments on our content educational portal. We really need feedback! Say what you like and what you don't. In what direction should we develop our site. What learning materials do you need? Especially for beginner modellers! Thank you in advance!

Painting the first scale model with an airbrush. Now that you've got your first airbrush, it's time to paint your first model. As a training, it is better to use the cheapest model from which it is worth assembling only the body. This article will not cover various methods painting, diluting paints and using an airbrush, but applying a simple base coat with acrylic paints is considered, since now it is much more important to learn how to apply paint evenly, without leaving unpainted areas, creating base layer. In addition to the airbrush, you will need transparent jars, napkins, a pipette or a syringe.

Preparing the model for painting. The single most important step in painting a scale model is surface preparation. The model you are going to paint must be clean, dry, free of dust and fingerprints, all of which can prevent the paint from sticking to its surface. Even marks from your fingertips can affect the final result. A little soapy water will allow you to prepare the model for painting by degreasing it and in the future the paint will better stick to the surface. After this procedure, the main thing is not to touch the model with your hands, but brush off the dust particles with a soft brush. Scale model primer. The primer allows the paint to adhere more firmly to the surface. The question to prime models or not causes a lot of controversy. However, at first it is still better to prime the models before painting. In addition, a thin layer of primer will allow you to identify flaws in the assembly, polishing which you can correct the errors. Preparing acrylic paint for use. You need to prepare the paint before pouring it into the airbrush. Too much thick paint will clog the channels of the airbrush, and besides, the coverage will be uneven. In this case, the airbrush will often “spit”. If the paint is too liquid, it will not evenly cover the surface to be painted and the risk of smudges will increase many times over. The paint should be thinned to the consistency of milk, but you should pay attention to the fact that many paint manufacturers produce them already prepared for use in an airbrush. One way or another, carefully study the label on the can of paint. If there are no recommendations, experiment by thinning the paint from 15% to 50% with thinner. Various brands paint and even various colors within a brand may require different amounts of thinner. But in general, light colors should be diluted more than dark ones, since not only do they contain more pigment, but it is also heavier. Painting the first scale model Although acrylic paints are considered quite safe, they must be used with care. Many of them contain alcohol, ammonia, or other ingredients that can irritate your throat or lungs if inhaled. Use a good respirator whenever you use an airbrush and try to keep your workshop as ventilated as possible. Remember: if you smell paint, then you are inhaling its vapors. Last preparation. You did a good job with the paint and model preparation. It remains to configure the compressor. Set the air pressure to about 1.5 atmospheres. Over time, you will realize that you can have better control over paint spraying at pressures between 1.5 and 2 atmospheres. Now pour the paint into the paint cup. Try spraying some paint on a sheet of paper away from the model to make sure the paint is sprayed in an even layer without clumps or splatters.

The position of the model when painting important point so it's better to use turntable. If you do not have such a table, be sure to put a latex glove on the hand in which you will hold the model.

It is extremely undesirable to hold the model with your bare hand for two reasons: firstly, your model is already degreased, and secondly, during the painting process, paint will inevitably get on your fingertips, which is very easy to blurt out on the model. Start of painting. Now it's time to try your hand at painting the model. Hold the airbrush gun perpendicular to the surface of the model to be painted and at a distance of 8-10 centimeters from it.

When painting, keep the airbrush constantly moving so you avoid smudges and smudges. Do all movements smoothly, without sudden movements. If you do not completely paint over some areas of the model the first time, this can be corrected by applying the second layer. Remember: it is always better to apply several very thin layers of paint instead of one thick one. Remember the golden rule when using an independent double action airbrush: start with air. finish - "air". It is very important to first open the air valve by pushing the button down and then gently pull it towards you to dispense paint. Never start work by applying paint. It is necessary to start supplying a jet of a mixture of air and paint outside the model and then move the airbrush over the model. This will help to avoid stains and spitting paint. Try to start painting from the inside of the model and the seams, and finish flat surfaces. While you are painting your model, remember to stop occasionally to look at the model from different angles, while only stopping the paint flow and leaving the air supply on. Apply a new layer of paint only after the previous one has completely dried. Never try to correct mistakes or accidental fingerprints by applying all more paint, since this will only lead to smudges, which can only be removed by repainting the model. There is a tendency that when painting models large sizes Your arm may become tired and numb. As soon as you feel this, stop painting for a while, place the airbrush on a stand and rest for a few minutes. If you take a longer break from painting or change paint, blow the airbrush with thinner to prevent the paint from drying out. Painting the first scale model Never leave the airbrush unwashed after painting. Dried paint is often the cause of damage or poor performance of airbrushes. There is a lot to learn about airbrush painting besides what is presented here. Even having gained a lot of experience, you will constantly learn more and more tricks and painting techniques, as well as improve your technique. Remember: The best way Learning how to use an airbrush is a constant practice. There is nothing better than doing this on old unwanted models. You will be able to experiment without fear of damaging the model that you have been building for several months.

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