How to make a chimney from a steel pipe with your own hands? Working with wire and tin How to make pipes from tin with your own hands

When working with tin, two main tools are used. Metal shears and bending machine.

Of course, when making a gutter for the roof of a barn, you can use the old-fashioned way - tap a galvanized sheet on the edge of a workbench with a mallet, or use a metal corner.

Examples of such work can be seen on the roof in the private sector. However, the quality of the product leaves much to be desired, and the metal is damaged at the site of impact.

In addition, artisanal bending of metal is only suitable for simple structures. If the bend profile has several multidirectional edges, you cannot do without a professional tool.

For example, you can’t bend the right ridge for a roof “on your knee”, and the appearance will always remind you of the negligence of the owner.

Buying an industrial bending machine is an unforgivable luxury. The work of the master is afraid - we will tell you how to make such a useful device in private households with your own hands.

To understand the process, consider the types of sheet benders:

Roller

The second name is three-roller. The machine is used to create smooth curved surfaces - large diameter pipes, semicircular drains and other structures without sharp corners. Works on the principle of a rolling machine. The sheet is profiled between two supporting rollers and one thrust roller, when moving which the workpiece bending radius is set.

Press Brake

The workpiece is placed between two punches (templates), under high pressure they close, giving the necessary shape to the sheet of metal. Typically used for thick workpieces. Useless for home use.

The principle of operation of the design is that the workpiece is clamped with a ruler-lock, and the movable traverse bends the edge to the desired angle. Perhaps the most popular type of sheet benders.

There are both industrial stationary and manual desktop fixtures. In fact, it has no restrictions on the bend angle - from 0 to 180 degrees. The width of the processed sheet is determined by the length of the traverse.

This is the only design flaw. It will be problematic to bend a single rolled strip several meters long at home. But you can quickly make a composite structure of any length with bends for splicing the ends.

When installing a roof, it is often necessary to perform tin work, which includes soldering, cold riveting and making inventory from tin. These types of work will be discussed below.

cold riveting

Riveting is necessary for a more durable splicing of parts. Riveting is used in the manufacture of gutters and inventory, attaching umbrellas over the openings of ventilation and chimneys, etc. Riveting is carried out using rivets made of soft metal (copper, aluminum) and representing a cylindrical rod with a mortgage head at the end. When the rod is riveted, the rivets receive a closing head. For roofing, rivets are taken, the diameter of which is 2 times the thickness of one of the parts to be joined, and the length is equal to the thickness of both parts plus 3-5 mm to form a head.

The length of the protruding end of the rivet is chosen depending on the shape of the closing head. With a semicircular head, the length of the protruding end should be 1.5 of the diameter of the rod. If the head is flat, the length of the protruding end of the rod should be approximately 1.1 of the rod diameter. The riveting can be ordinary or hidden. With conventional riveting, the heads of the rivets are above the surface of the parts, and with countersunk riveting they are flattened flush with the surface of the parts to be joined.

If roofing steel parts are connected to section steel parts, then rivets with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm are usually used, placing the embedded heads on the side of the thin part. Usually, parts are spliced with one rivet seam, and sometimes 2. Rivets are placed at a distance of 3 cm from each other and at a distance of 1.5 rod lengths from the edge of the parts. For rivets in parts, holes are made larger than the diameter of the rivet rod by 1/4. When splicing parts, fly in, i.e., riveting is done flush with the surface of the parts, the riveting holes are countersinked (give the hole the shape of a truncated cone) to a depth equal to the height of the head, at an angle of 60-80 °.

Riveting tools

Support. It is used to install the mortgage head. For this purpose, the surface of the tool, which during operation is in contact with the head, has a recess in the form of a head.

A hammer. Take a hammer with a mass of 3 kg. Used for driving rivets into holes.

Draft. Necessary for sealing spliced parts.

Swage. It is used for finishing (final formation) of the closing head.

Description of the riveting process

Splicing of parts begins with the installation of indicative rivets at the ends of the rivet row and at certain intervals between them. Riveting is performed in the following order: fitting of the parts to be joined; marking holes for rivets; drilling holes; rivet laying; draft of spliced parts for their tight fit to each other and the closing head; finishing of the closing head with the help of crimping.

Soldering

To obtain a tight and waterproof seam, soldering is used - fastening metal parts with molten solder. Solder is called tin-lead alloys, which are easy to melt. When soldering, molten solder is placed in the gap between the parts preheated by the soldering iron. The solder fills the pores of the base metal and forms a tight seam. For roofing, soft solders are taken, the melting point of which is not more than 300 ° C.

Before soldering, remove rust, dirt from the edges of the parts to be joined, grind them so that there are no burrs and irregularities. After that, the soldering areas are tinned (covered with a thin layer of tin), the soldering iron tip is ground and tinned. The parts are laid flat. wooden surface(bar). After fitting the edges of the parts, zinc chloride (hydrochloric acid) is introduced into the gap between them with a brush or a thin stick. In the event that the seam is large, it is soldered in several places. The tip of the soldering iron with solder is placed at the beginning of the seam, and as the solder enters the gap between the parts, the seam is pressed in this place wooden block, and the soldering iron is moved to a new place, etc. The amount of solder on the tip is replenished from time to time.

The parts to be spliced during soldering are slightly tilted in the direction of movement of the soldering iron. The clamp from the edges of the parts is removed only after the solder has hardened and the soldered seam has become dull gray. The seam is then washed under running water or wiped with a swab dipped in soda solution and dried with a rag. Soldering in parallel with riveting is used in the manufacture of inventory, pipe collars, etc.

Production of inventory for roofing work

Rice. 77.:
1 - general form buckets; preparation of the bottom of the bucket; 3 - wire rim in expanded form; 4 - half of the shell; 5 - bucket shackle

When performing roofing work, a cylindrical bucket, a conical bucket and a can are used, the manufacturing rules for which are given below.

Making a cylindrical bucket

A cylindrical bucket consists of the following elements: bottom, shell, rim, ears, bow, rivets (Fig. 77). For the manufacture of the shell, sheet steel 1 mm thick is taken and the dimensions of the shell are marked on it (height and length equal to the circumference of the bottom plus an allowance of 12 mm for the seams connecting the edges of the shell and the shell with the bottom, and for rolling the rim). The wire for the rim is taken with a diameter of 4 mm. The ears are attached to the shell with rivets with a section of 6x4 mm. For the bow, use a wire with a diameter of 6 mm and insert it into the ears. When fastening parts, all folds for a stronger connection are lubricated with minium putty.

Rice. 78.

Like a cylindrical one, a conical bucket consists of a shell, a rim, a bottom, lugs and rivets (Fig. 78). To make a conical bucket, take sheet steel 0.65-0.7 mm thick and mark the bucket pattern on it. Draw a circle with a diameter of 30-40 cm, then draw a second circle with a diameter of 20 cm inside the first. The circles must have one center. Then they are divided in half and allowances are set aside for soldering the side seam and for the wire rim. After that, a half of the large circle is cut out, as well as the half of the small circle included in it. Solder the side edges. Having measured the diameter of a small hole, draw a circle on the sheet steel with a diameter equal to the diameter of this hole, and cut it out. In this way, the bottom of the conical bucket is obtained. The bottom is soldered to the lower edges of the shell. Then the wire rim is rolled up, first giving it the shape of a ring, and beaded with a hammer; ears are cut out of thicker steel (1-1.2 mm) and riveted to the upper part of the shell with rivets. The wire shackle is inserted into the ears.

Can making

Rice. 79.:
1 - can cover; 2 - side view; 3 - half of the pattern of the bottom of the can; 4 - cone pattern; 5 - pattern of the shell of the can; 6 - wire rim; 7 - neck pattern; 8 - pattern of the handle; 9 - pattern of the lid shell; 10 - half of the pattern for the top of the lid

The can consists of a shell, a cone, a bottom, a neck, a rim, an upper part of the lid, a lid shell and a handle. For the manufacture of a can take steel with a thickness of 0.8-0.9 mm. They make it according to the pattern shown in Figure 79. The pattern gives allowances for seam seams. Details of round and conical shape are made by hand or on rolling. The bottom of the can is made with emphasis. The lid should sit tightly in the neck, so the connecting folds make one inward and the other out. To make the handle stronger, it is provided with wire rims and riveted to the top of the lid.

Connection of curved elements

You can consider the connection of curved elements using the example of a transitional elbow between a funnel and a drainpipe, which consists of 3 links. Before proceeding with the preparation of links, a transition curve template is made on the steel sheet according to the dimensions of the oblique cut of the link. Then, on one sheet, according to the template, taking into account the allowances for the seam connection, all 3 blanks are marked (Fig. 80).

Rice. 80.

Rice. 81.:
a - general view; b - section of folds

Rice. 82.

Rice. 83.

Rice. 84.

The cut blanks are rolled out and connected with single lying folds. Finished links are connected by folding (Fig. 81). Let us dwell in more detail on the operations carried out in the manufacture of the transition elbow. On the inner surface link in places intended for connection, risks are applied. The link is placed on the anvil, combining the risk with its edge, and with short blows of the hammer nose in a circle, the edge is bent by 10-15 °. The operation is repeated until the bend is first 60° (Fig. 82), and then 120°. Then they dump the side and carry out its shrinkage (Fig. 83). To connect the links to each other on the lower and upper links, an edge 5 mm wide is bent and inserted into the recess formed by the side on the middle link and the seam is folded (Fig. 84).

Preparation of elements for covering parapets, firewall walls and aprons

Rice. 85.:
1 - parapet; 2 - steel coating; 3 - apron; 4 - drip

Rice. 86.:
1 - firewall; 2 - steel coating; 3 - apron; 4 - drip

To protect the parapet from the effects of precipitation, a steel coating is used, which has droppers along the edges, and with a parapet height of up to 50 mm, an apron is also arranged (Fig. 85). The steel coating is fastened with T-shaped crutches, which are nailed to the bars every 600-700 mm. To enhance the rigidity of the coating, additional hooks made of strip steel 420 mm long and 30-40 mm wide are nailed to the bars. The connection of the firewall with the steel roofing is carried out with the help of an otter, for which the edge of the roofing sheet bent by 60-80 mm is inserted into the furrow left during the brickwork to its full depth (60 mm). Depending on the climatic conditions the firewall is covered with roofing steel either only from above, or from above and from the sides (Fig. 86). Roofing sheets for covering parapets and firewalls are marked out in strict accordance with the specified dimensions, cut in the longitudinal direction and connected into double patterns with single recumbent seams with undercuts. Aprons are made from steel sheets cut in the longitudinal direction.

Making collars around chimneys, dormers, caps and umbrellas over chimneys

Rice. 87.:
a - general view chimney; b - collar details prepared for styling; Du - the length of the chimney along the slope; W - width of the chimney; U - the angle between the pipe wall and the roof slope

The manufacture of the collar begins with a careful marking of the roofing sheet according to the given dimensions. The cut blanks are bent so that as a result the details of the upper and lower parts of the side aprons are paired: 2 left and 2 right (Fig. 87). Collar halves connect single fold and are soldered with a third party. Instead of seam joints, you can make bends directed along the water drain, which are first riveted (2-3 rivets with a diameter of 2-3 mm), and then soldered. The dormer window, depending on its size, is covered with 1 or 2 paintings. Before making paintings, it is necessary to measure the crate in order to establish:

diameter of the base of the window;
the length of the semi-cone along the slope;
the length of the semi-cone along the ridge.

According to the obtained dimensions, a window drawing is made (front and side view), according to which, taking into account the allowances for the overhang and folds, they cut out roofing sheet and prepare 2 pictures.

Rice. 88.:
a - general view of the window; b - front apron; c - side apron; A - the width of the apron; B - the width of the lower window trim; D - the length of the side wall of the window along the slope; W - window width; U - the angle between the front wall of the window

Dormer window collar consists of 3 aprons: 2 side and 1 front (Fig. 88). They are prepared according to the given dimensions on a workbench using a mandrel bar and a mallet. On the front apron, first the short side lapels are bent, and then the long one located between them. On the side apron, the longitudinal edge is first bent, and then the edge laid on the crate. A short narrow edge is dumped onto a plane, and a long one is bent at a right angle. A cap protecting the smoke head or ventilation pipe, consists of 4 sidewalls and a cover (Fig. 89).

Rice. 89.

Template blanks are cut from sheet steel. Droppers, upper rectangular rims and edges for seam connection are bent in the sidewalls, and a hole is cut in the lid to fit the chimney and the inner sides are bent. After that, the cover is connected to the sidewalls with corner folds.

Umbrellas protect the smoke channels from the ingress of atmospheric moisture into them. Depending on the shape, umbrellas are either conical or pyramidal. For the manufacture of conical umbrellas use roofing steel 1-1.5 mm thick, and for pyramidal ones - 2 times thinner. To perform a sweep of a conical umbrella (Fig. 90), it is necessary to draw a circle desired diameter, draw 2 radii from its center so that the angle between them is 35 °, make an overlap allowance and cut the workpiece. Then the edges of the workpiece are connected and fixed with 3-4 rivets, from the outside, 3 racks are also attached to the umbrella with rivets.

Rice. 90.:
1 - rack; 2 - rivet

Rice. 91.

To perform a sweep of the pyramidal umbrella (Fig. 91), a square of a given size is drawn, the opposite corners are connected by diagonals, forming 4 triangles, one of the sides of the triangle is cut, the workpiece is moved apart along the cut line at an angle of 25 °, allowances are made for the hem and for the seam connection. The finished workpiece is slightly bent along the sides of the triangles and connected with a closing fold. 4 racks are attached to the outside of the umbrella.

Roll-in of wire and roll-out of stiffening beads

To give rigidity to roofing products, wire is rolled into them. 2 risks are drawn along the edge of the steel sheet using a ruler: the first at a distance equal to 1/2 of the diameter of the rolled wire, and the second at a distance equal to 1/3 of the distance to the first risk.

Rice. 92.:
a - combining the second risk with the edge of the workbench; b - bending the edge by 15 °; in - limb on the first risk; g - edge bending up to 90 °; d - laying the wire; e - edge stalling; g - crimping

Then they combine the second risk with the edge of the workbench and bend the edge at a right angle (Fig. 92, a), turn the sheet over and bend the bent edge inside the sheet by another 15 ° (Fig. 92, b), turn the sheet over and make a bend at the first risk ( Fig. 92, c), again turn the sheet over and the edge bend is adjusted to 90 ° (Fig. 92, d), a piece of wire is laid in the bend (Fig. 92, e) and the edge is dumped with a wooden hammer (Fig. 92, f). In conclusion, the sheet is installed vertically and the wire is finally crimped from all sides (Fig. 92, g).

AT round products first, an edge of a given width is beaded by 90 °, a wire ring of the appropriate diameter is laid in it, a tack is made on a mandrel bar or anvil in several places, the bend is dumped and laid on the ring.

Production of elements of wall and hanging gutters and coverings of grooves

Rice. 93.

Pictures of wall gutters are made on a workbench. In a double picture (Fig. 93), the short sides of the sheets are interconnected by double recumbent folds located in the direction of the water flow.

On one long side of the picture, an edge is bent to connect with an ordinary coating, and on the short sides, stepping back from the other long side 200-250 mm, make 1 incision with a depth of 30 mm and along the long edge at an angle of 60 ° to the plane of the picture, the lapel tape is bent. The corners of the edges for double lying folds are cut at 45 °. The side of the gutter is bent to a height of 120-150 mm, depending on the annual amount of precipitation falling in the area. Then, on the short sides of the picture, the edges are folded under the recumbent folds: for the pictures of the gutters located to the right of the water intake funnel, the right folds are made up, and the left ones down, and for the left pictures, vice versa.

Hanging gutters, as a rule, are semicircular, but rectangular ones are also found. They are made in links 3-4 m long. The sheets in the picture are connected by double lying folds and upset so that they are on the outside of the gutter. The finished picture is bent on special device with the help of a mallet. At the end of the gutters that are not connected to the funnels, plugs are placed.

Manufacture of downpipe parts

The downpipe consists of:

water intake funnel;
direct links;
knees for bypassing ledges on the wall;
mark to drain water from the walls of the building.

The main parts of the water intake funnel are the rim, the cone and the glass. For the rim of the funnel, a blank is cut out, the width of which is equal to the length of the upper side of the trapezoidal blank for the cone, and its edges are bent to connect with the cone. Then the workpiece is bent and joined with a fold. On the finished rim, 2 stiffening rollers are rolled out and an edge is beaded into which a wire with a diameter of 14 mm is rolled.

For a cone, a blank is cut in the form of a trapezoid, the upper side of which has a length equal to the width of the blank for the glass, and the lower side is equal to the width of the blank for the rim. Folded edges are bent on the workpiece and rolled into a cone on rolling with a deflected bending shaft. The cone is connected by a fold along its generatrix. The edges of the rectangular billet of the glass are connected and crimped. The glass is inserted into the pipe link.

Downpipe straight links are made from standard steel sheets that are cut lengthwise or crosswise depending on the number of links required and downpipe diameter. In order for the finished links to fit well into each other, the workpiece is given a slight taper: one side of it is shortened by 5-6 mm. A link blank with bent edges for a seam connection is rolled up manually on a mandrel bar, steel pipe, or rolled out on a rolling mill. At the ends of the straight links, rollers are rolled out behind the sigmachine, protruding 7-8 mm above the link surface. They are at the same time stiffening ribs and limiters for the depth of entry of one link into another. Corrugated elbows are made from a straight pipe link and bent with a press or non-corrugated from several pipe links. For the manufacture of the mark, a smooth knee is taken, the lower end of which is cut along the oblique.

Hanging downpipes

Water intake funnels and drainpipes are attached using eaves and wall pins with brackets. The fastening strip of the cornice pin intended for attaching the funnel is bent and shortened so that the inlet of the funnel cone is below the dropper eaves overhang by 7-10 mm, and the stiffening roller of the funnel cup rested on the pin collar. The upper wall pin is attached just below the upper transition elbow, and the lower one is just above the mark. If necessary, additional pins are installed between them at regular intervals, which are mounted on birch plugs hammered into holes flush with the wall (Fig. 94).

Rice. 94.

Decoration weirs

The previous sections talked about how devices can be made to drain water from the roof and from the walls of the house. So that they not only do not spoil the general appearance of the house, but also be its decoration, you can decorate them with perforated iron. Working with punched iron does not require special skills and experience, so get products from it High Quality maybe even a newbie. To do this, you need a drawing or ornament and minimum set tools: metal scissors, square, thickness gauge, hammer, ruler and several cuts.

Thickness gauge for tin work is made in the form of a hardened steel plate. The tool has notches on both edges. Using a thickness gauge, draw marking lines parallel to the edges of the sheet. The thickness gauge can be sliding. With it, you can set the required distance by loosening 2 screws and moving the plate relative to the base. Cuts are made of 3 types: round, semicircular and straight. The first are made from a hardened alloy steel tube of the required diameter. Their working part is well sharpened, and the upper part has a plug for hitting it with a hammer. In these cuts there is a hole for removing fragments of material from them. Cuts are produced in lengths of 150-180 mm.

Sections of a semicircular shape are made with different cross sections - steep, sloping, medium. The working side is sharpened to a width of 3.5-30 mm. The tool can be made at home. To do this, take an ordinary chisel and remove the working part from it. After that, with the help of an emery wheel, its back is given a semicircular shape, and on the edge of the same circle, the working part of the tool is made, which is then sharpened. Simple chisels can serve as straight cuts, the width of the working edge of which ranges from 8 to 30 mm, and the angle of sharpening is 35-40 °.

Possessing the skills of heat treatment of steel, any necessary tool, including cuts, can be made independently. For this type of work, roofing galvanized iron or black iron is usually taken. Preference is given to black iron, because after staining, blackening, the pattern stands out more clearly on it. The disadvantage of this iron is that it rusts rather quickly, unlike galvanized iron. A perforated pattern made on galvanized iron begins to “play” if the roof and walls of the house are painted in dark colors or against the backdrop of brick walls. Before performing work, carefully prepare the workplace. To do this, choose an oak or beech block of wood and put it on a stable bench. At the upper end of the block, iron should be cut through.

The tinsmith sits astride a bench so that the block of wood is between his legs. On the right side, on the same level with the block of wood, small goats are installed, and on the left - a table. The table is needed for laying out tools, and the goats are for the horizontal arrangement of long sheets of perforated thread. In order to make holes provided for by a pre-prepared pattern, markings are made on the cut surface using a ruler, square and other tools, then the sheet is placed on a block of wood and all holes are punched with cuts, hitting them with a hammer.

The most difficult sections should be punched with semicircular cuts. The pattern at the edges is cut out with scissors for metal, and the inner one is cut with straight cuts. In addition to the tools already listed, chasing may be needed to punch small holes. Perforated iron is trimmed by blackening, that is, oxidation. Blackening is carried out in an enameled container, heating the solution. But there is some difficulty: it is rather difficult to blacken cut sheets of large sizes. Before blackening, iron is prepared - scale and rust are removed from it in such solutions (substances included in their composition are given in mass parts):

1. Formalin - 2. Hydrochloric acid(20%) - 48.

2. Hydrochloric acid - 25. Sulfuric acid - 15. Urotropin - 0.06. Water - 200.

After removing scale and rust from iron, it is thoroughly washed under running water and dipped in a blackening solution prepared according to one of the recipes:

1. Water - 200. Sodium hyposulfite - 16. Orthophosphoric acid - 1.4. Ammonium chloride - 12. Nitric acid - 0.6.

The solution is gradually brought to a temperature of about 70 ° C and iron is placed in it for about 20 minutes, which is covered with black matte film. The solution can also act at a temperature of 20 °C. In this case, the product is kept in it for at least an hour. A matte black film appears on the product, but less durable than at a temperature of 70 ° C.

2. Water - 200. Sodium nitrate - 35. Caustic soda - 130.

The solution is brought to a temperature of 135 ° C and iron is lowered into it for 1.5 hours. As a result of this procedure, the iron is covered with a black shiny film.

3. Water - 200. Caustic soda - 300. Sodium nitrate - 6.

The solution is brought to a temperature of 150 ° C and the product is placed in it for no more than 10 minutes. The product is covered with a matte black film. After blackening, the products are washed with hot water and dried in the open air. Then a thin layer of natural drying oil is applied to them.

Tin is a material that belongs to rolling products. This is a variety. After rolling, the sheet is treated with anti-corrosion agents.

In order to make such a pipe you will need only 2-3 tools

For heating equipment, you can independently make tin pipes for the chimney. This material elastic, so processed by hand. In addition, steel is characterized by rigidity and strength, so tin products of special strength are made from it.

What tin to choose

Before making a pipe out of tin, a suitable one is selected. For chimneys, thin sheet metal coated with a special compound is recommended.

The tin pipe removes smoke and increases draft.

Tin is black and white. The black material type is thin sheet and cold rolled steel. Products are made from steels of various grades. The material is offered by manufacturers in sheets or rolls.

Tinplate is a material coated with tin on both sides, which is processed by electrolytic and hot tinning methods. This material is a low carbon and thin sheet.

The processing method gives the steel resistance to rust and ductility.

Production is accompanied by the control of the composition of substances. The method of processing and content affects the receipt of material of different grades.

The white type of tinplate is treated to improve the surface for adhesion with lacquer coatings.

Lacquered tin is used. The varnishing process is used to protect surfaces from external factors.

Black and white type of material is of the following types:

the single-rolled sheet is a mild steel product that is processed by cold rolling to the desired thickness;
the metal of double rolling after the first rolling procedure is subjected to the second rolling and special lubrication, which reduces the thickness of the product.

The material is classified according to the degree of hardness and the amount of tin used.

Tin pipe has technically universal qualities.

What tools are needed

Before doing tin work, it is worth picking up a set of materials and tools. You will need equipment for tin work.

You will need a sheet of thin tin. To make the pipe even, a material with a smooth structure and clear corners is taken. Do not use sheet with torn edges.

Cutting the material does not require effort, but getting started, it is worth preparing the following tinsmith tools:

To cut the segment into blanks, scissors are used for.
A mallet or rubber mallet is used that does not leave dents. The weight of the tool is selected heavy, but the impact force is controlled.
Pliers or tongs are used to make bends.
Recommended machines for tin work. A workbench is suitable, which allows you to evenly position the sheet and mark it out.
For calibration, a thick-walled tube and a corner are used, which is mounted to the edge of the workbench. The corner is chosen massive, since the metal is bent on it. The pipe helps in the manufacture of the longitudinal seam of the line.
A thin steel rod is used as a marker. It is made independently. To do this, sharpen a nail.
A measurement tool is recommended. Roulettes and squares are suitable for this.

You will need a round part to assemble the product. For this, a pipe with a cross section of 90 mm and not too long is recommended.

Instructions for making a tin pipe for ventilation with a do-it-yourself cap

To make a pipe from a sheet of iron means to perform a sequence of actions. The work consists of simple steps. First, preparation takes place, which consists of marking parts and cutting blanks.

At the stage of forming the body of the structure, an element of circular section is created. When connecting, it is required to fix the elements into one product.

Adapters for connecting pipes made of tin

You can make markup and blanks in several stages:

The tin sheet is placed on the surface without joints. Suitable for this flooring or workbench.
A segment is marked from the upper edge, which is equal in size to the future highway. Marking is performed by a marking device. Manufacturing also takes place.
A line is drawn through the mark. In this case, a square is used.
From the line, the width of the segment is marked, which is equal to the cross section of the pipe. 15 mm per joint is added to the obtained value.
The resulting markings are connected, and the workpiece is cut.

When marking, it is worth considering the size of the product. Width is the size of the diameter plus one and a half additional centimeters. The length of the workpiece must be greater than the straight section of the structure.

Do-it-yourself work with tin is done as follows:

The folds are bent to the surface of the sheet at a right angle. Previously, line markings are made under them. mallet. The sheet is placed on the edge of the table with a descent to the desired length and a bend is made using a rubber hammer. Work is carried out along the entire length of the product.
Do-it-yourself tin pipe involves another bend on the fold. This does the markup.
A round element is used to construct the pipe. On it is a galvanized sheet, which is given a rounded shape. In this case, the bent ends of the pipe are connected.

The bends are made so that the mallet fits exactly on the surface of the corner. The blows are made precise and clear, but not strong, otherwise the seam will flatten.

The production of tin products is completed by docking. In this case, the edges are aligned, and

seam is attached. In this case, the horizontal section bends down and covers the edge. The protruding seam is bent to the surface with a mallet. The bend is performed away from the l-shaped fold. If you do otherwise, then water will penetrate inside.

Do-it-yourself tin products need to be connected. The edges are fastened with aluminum or steel rivets.

Holes for rivets are made every three centimeters.
The edges bend towards each other.
The workpiece is folded back so that the edges are on the outside of the structure.
The edges are mounted with rivets.

To facilitate the connection of the structure, the element in the wide side should be slightly flared. To ensure rigidity from the edges of the product. Correct markup promotes ease of docking with other elements, even factory-made.

Similar products are used for gutters, ventilation systems and chimney structures.

Features of working with tin: how to bend a sheet of iron and cut it

To create products from tin with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of working with this material. Recommendations will help facilitate installation and create a design in the shortest possible time.

To give the tin sheet the necessary shape will allow an element of the appropriate configuration. Flexion performs tapping using a hammer.
To make the fold even, tapping is carried out close to each other.
A special leather loop will help to facilitate the cutting of a workpiece from steel. This element is mounted on scissors and put on fingers.
After cutting, the edge is processed with a plow, which is prepared from hacksaw material.
Tin products sometimes need to be cut. This is done to give a curly shape to the product. This procedure is performed with a can opener.

In order for the material to be cut well with a knife, it is filed with a hacksaw, and then a knife or scissors is used.

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Tin work is simple and you can do it yourself. The ability to make such a design is useful in everyday life. A tin pipe is made simply, the main thing is to know certain nuances of the process.

Home builders try to select the most budget options to solve problems. Therefore, the question of how to make a tin pipe with your own hands is relevant for many amateur craftsmen. After all, a home-made tubular product made of tin can be quite compared with gutters or casings that lie on shelves in specialized stores.

Therefore, it is necessary to learn more about the manufacturing process of a tin pipe that has the characteristics of factory products.

Features of the source material

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a pipe from a sheet of metal, you should get to know the material from which the pipe will be made and its features. To begin with, it is worth saying that these are rolling products, in other words, tin is a sheet of steel that has passed through the rolls of a rolling mill and has a thickness of 0.1-0.7 mm.

In addition to rolling operations, tinplate manufacturing technology involves the processing of finished rolled products from the formation of corrosive processes. To do this, a layer of material is applied to the steel after rolling, which is not susceptible to corrosion.

The result of the actions taken is steel sheet, the width of which can vary from 512 to 1000 mm, with a chrome or zinc coating. The finished product is plastic, so tin can be easily processed by hand. At the same time, rolled stiffeners can be compared in strength with steel products. This allows the use of tin in the manufacture of products of complex design.

Required Tools

The list of tools and fixtures necessary for making galvanized chimney pipes with your own hands is due to the properties of tin, in particular softness and plasticity. The processing of this type of material does not require any special effort, which is necessary for working with sheet materials.

Therefore, in the production tin pipes the following set of tools is required for the chimney:

Scissors for cutting metal. This tool makes it easy to cut sheet material into the right pieces, since the most big thickness tin reaches 0.7 mm.
Soft-faced hammer. You can also use a wooden mallet, mallet, or steel tool with a soft rubber pad. However last option they are used very carefully or not taken at all, as it can cause deformation of a thin sheet of tin and ruin all the work.
Pliers. With the help of this tool, they solve the question of how to bend a pipe from tin, because it is steel, although it is thin, therefore, it is impossible to bend it with your hands.
Workbench. This device is necessary when cutting material and when marking.
Calibrating element. This can be a tubular product with a diameter of more than 10 centimeters, as well as a corner with edges of 7.5 centimeters. These elements must be well fixed, since a butt joint will be riveted on their surface.

In addition to these tools, you should prepare a ruler or tape measure and a scriber, which is a steel rod with sharp sharpening.

Instructions for making a tin pipe with your own hands

The manufacture of tin products, including pipes, takes place in three stages:

Preparatory work involve marking the workpiece and cutting it out of a tin sheet.
Forming involves forming the profile of a pipe or other product.
In the final, the opposite edges of the workpiece are connected.

And now more detailed description each stage of the manufacture of tin pipes with their own hands.

First, markings are applied to the sheet of tin, along which the semi-finished product will be cut. In other words, the necessary part is cut off from a certain tin sheet, from which the contour of the future pipe will be formed. The marking process is carried out as follows: the tin is laid out on a workbench and a segment equal to the length of the pipe is measured from the upper edge. This is where the marker is placed.

Then, using a square, a line is drawn along this mark perpendicular to the side edge. Now along this line the circumference of the pipe, the same is done along the upper edge. At the same time, about 1.5 cm is added along both edges to form the connecting edges. The upper and lower marks are connected and the workpiece is cut out.

To determine the circumference, you can use a tape measure, or you can recall a school geometry course.

How to make a pipe body out of tin

The purpose of this stage is to form a pipe profile. A line is drawn along the length of the workpiece at the bottom and at the top, along which the folds will be bent. At the same time, 5 mm are measured on one side, and 10 mm on the other. The folds must be bent at an angle of 900. To do this, the workpiece is placed on a steel corner, aligning the fold line with the edge of the corner. Hitting the edge with a mallet, bend it to the perpendicular side of the corner.

Now, on the fold, the size of which is 10 mm, another fold of the fold is made to make a kind of letter G. In the process of bending the fold, you need to make sure that the upper fold is parallel to the workpiece, and its length is 5 millimeters. Therefore, when drawing the folding line of the fold, 0.5 cm is measured on one side once, and on the other side, twice 0.5 cm each.

After forming the folds, you can proceed to the formation of the pipe body. To do this, the workpiece sheet is placed on a sizing element and they begin to tap with a mallet or other suitable tool in order to obtain a profile of a certain shape. First, the workpiece takes a U-shape, and then becomes round. In this case, the folds must be joined together.

Processing the junction of the folds

The final stage involves the processing of the butt joint, that is, its crimping. To do this, the upper part of the L-shaped fold is folded down, wrapping the edge of the other fold. The result should be a kind of sandwich, located perpendicular to the pipe. To get a docking seam, you need to press the sandwich to the product.

For greater reliability, the butt joint is strengthened with rivets. However, do-it-yourself tin pipes using this docking method do not need additional reinforcement.

tubespec.com

How to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands: a step-by-step solution to the issue

If you are interested in the question of how to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands, then you want to save on construction. Indeed, making homemade tin structures is a smart alternative to factory drains, chimneys, and ventilation shrouds. How to practically do the job, this article will tell.

Material characteristics

Galvanized structures are made of tin. The material is a sheet of rolled steel with a thickness of 0.1 - 0.7 mm.

Complex shapes are formed from soft material

The production of sheets takes place on rolling machines, but the products obtained in this way need additional protection. Therefore, it is covered with a material that is resistant to corrosion. Ultimately, consumers receive a steel sheet, 512-1000 mm wide, which has a micron coating of chromium, tin or zinc.

The product is characterized by plasticity, which allows the processing of tin by hand. Moreover, if stiffeners are rolled on the material, it is not inferior in strength to steel counterparts. For these reasons, tin is used in the manufacture of products of complex shape.

Required Tools

Soft and ductile material is easy to bend, so the manufacture of galvanized pipes is done using simple tools:

Hand shears for metal. With this tool, you can effortlessly cut tin, the maximum thickness of which is only 0.7 mm.
Soft-faced hammer. This role can be played by a wooden hammer or a metal tool, on the shock part of which there is a rubber pad.

To work, you need a wooden hammer

Note! A hammer with a metal striker is not suitable in this case. It can deform a thin sheet of galvanized sheet and ruin the product.

Pliers. Despite its softness, thin metal cannot be bent by hand.

In addition to tools, you will need equipment:

A workbench for marking and cutting workpieces.
Calibrating element in the form steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm or a corner with a side length of 75 mm.

Important! Gauge elements should be rigidly fixed, since they are riveted to the butt joint of future gutters or ducts.

In the process of marking workpieces, one cannot do without measuring tools - a metal ruler, tape measure, square or marker (a sharply sharpened steel rod with a hardened end).

Making galvanized pipes with your own hands

The manufacture of casings and cylinders from galvanized steel includes three stages:

Preparatory. It starts with marking and ends with cutting out the finished “pattern”.
Molding. At this time, the formation of a given profile of the chimney or ventilation duct takes place.
Final. At this stage, the opposite edges of the workpiece are connected to each other.

And now we will dwell in detail on the phased manufacture of galvanized pipes by hand.

Cutting out a workpiece

Tin can be easily cut with scissors

Take a sheet of galvanized sheet and draw a sketch of the product. Then proceed like this:

Cut out the resulting measured piece of sheet on which you drew the outline of the product you need.
Roll out the galvanized sheet on a flat workbench. Measure the length of the box from the top edge and make a mark there.
Take a square and draw a line from the product length mark perpendicular to the side edge of the sheet.
Mark on the upper edge of the workpiece and the marked line of the length of the product the value of the perimeter of the ventilation duct or the circumference of the chimney cylinder.

Note! The actual value of the circumference or perimeter must be increased by 15 mm to form the butt edges.

Connect the obtained marks from above and below.
Cut out the "pattern" from the sheet, making a lateral and longitudinal incision.

On a note! To measure the circumference of a galvanized chimney pipe, use a tape measure or calculate it from the diameter of the product using the school geometric formula. To determine the perimeter, sum all sides of the box.

Profile formation

Bend sheets better with pliers

Now we proceed to the formation of the profile of the future design.

Mark the fold line of the fold along the workpiece (0.5 cm on one side, and 0.5 cm twice on the other).
Bend the folds at an angle of 90˚ to the plane of the workpiece, which was previously placed along the steel corner (its edge should coincide with the fold line of the fold).
Deform the sheet with hammer blows until it comes into contact with the second plane of the corner.

Important! The shape of the sheet should be changed gradually, slowly moving along the fold line. First, do the work with pliers.

Make an L-shaped bend along a 0.5 cm line parallel to the plane of the workpiece on a 1 cm fold.
Now proceed to molding the body of the chimney. Place the workpiece on the sizing plane and tap the galvanizing with a hammer until you get the profile of the desired shape. The folds should meet at the end.

Seam processing

To crimp the butt seam, align the vertical seams. Bend the horizontal section of the L-fold down so that it wraps around the vertical section of the other edge of the structure. Bend the protruding "sandwich", pressing it against the plane of the chimney.

The question of how to make a galvanized pipe yourself has been resolved. We wish you success!

Video: pipe manufacturing

trubsovet.ru

tool and tinplate manufacturing process

How to make a pipe out of tin? This question is of interest to all supporters budget decisions in home construction. After all, homemade tin pipes are a reasonable alternative to "store" drains or ventilation casings. Therefore, in this article we will tell our readers about how to make a pipe out of tin, the characteristics of which are not inferior to store counterparts.

Structural material features

Before starting work, we should get acquainted with our structural material- tin. This material refers to rolling products. That is, in fact, tin is a trivial sheet steel, rolled out on the rolls of a rolling mill to a thickness of 0.1-0.7 millimeters.

However, in the technology of manufacturing tinplate, there was a place not only for rolling operations. After all, the finished product must also be protected from corrosion. Therefore, after rolling, the steel is coated with a layer of material that is resistant to corrosion.

As a result, the consumer receives a steel sheet with a width of 512 to 1000 millimeters, coated with a micron layer of chromium, tin or zinc. Such a product is very plastic - tin can be processed even manually. Moreover, when knurling stiffeners, the strength of tin products is not inferior to steel counterparts. Therefore, tin is used in the process of manufacturing products of complex shape.

Tools and fixtures for the manufacture of pipes from tin

Soft and plastic tin does not require special efforts applied to the sheet blank.

Therefore, in the production of tin products, the following tools are most often used:

Hammers with metal heads, in this case, are not used. They can deform a thin sheet of tin, spoiling the whole work.

Pliers. After all, despite the softness thin metal, a tin pipe does not bend with your own hands.

In addition, to perform some of the operations, you will need a workbench, which will be used both in the marking process and in the process of cutting the workpiece, as well as a calibrating element - a steel pipe with a diameter of 100 millimeters or a corner with edges of 75 millimeters.

Moreover, both the pipe and the corner must be rigidly fixed, because on their surfaces we will rivet the butt joint of the pipe or box.

In addition, in the process of marking the workpiece, we will need measuring tools- a metal ruler, tape measure, square and scriber, which is a sharply sharpened steel rod hardened at the end.

Making tin pipes with your own hands: process instructions

The process of manufacturing tin pipes and boxes can be divided into three stages:

Preparatory, starting with marking and ending with cutting the workpiece.
Molding, during which the profile of the pipe or box is formed.
The final one, during which the opposite edges of the workpiece are connected.

The first stage is the preparation of the workpiece

Before we make a pipe out of tin, we must mark the sheet blank and cut out a semi-finished product from it - a dimensional section suitable for forming the contour of the future product.

On a flat area of the workbench, we roll out a sheet of steel. From the top edge of the sheet we measure the length of the pipe, making a mark with a marker or chalk. Next, we take a square and draw a line perpendicular to the side edge of the sheet along the pipe length mark. After that, we mark on the upper edge and the drawn line the length of the perimeter of the box or the circumference of the pipe.

Moreover, to the actual circumference or perimeter, you need to add another 15 millimeters to the connecting edges.

We connect the marks from above and below. We cut the blank from the sheet, making a lateral and longitudinal incision.

The circumference can be measured with a tape measure, or it can be calculated from the planned diameter using the well-known formula from school course geometry. The perimeter is the sum of all the sides of our box.

At this, the preliminary stage is over and we are waiting for the very manufacture of a pipe from tin with our own hands, implemented in the form of two stages: profile molding and joint processing.

The second stage is the formation of the pipe body

At the next stage, our goal is to form the pipe profile.

Along the pipe blank, we mark the bend line of the fold. On the one hand, it is equal to 0.5 centimeters, and on the other, one centimeter. We bend the folds at a right angle to the plane of the workpiece. To do this, we place the workpiece along the steel corner, aligning its edge with the folding line of the fold and, with blows of the mallet, deform the sheet until it comes into contact with the perpendicular angle plane.

Moreover, the deformation must be performed gradually, along the entire plane of the bend. And at the very beginning, you can use pliers to bend the edge: after all, even the softest tin, from which tin pipes are made, does not bend with your own hands.

Further, on a centimeter fold, the L-shaped bend is bent at a right angle from the plane of the fold. Moreover, the upper part of the L-shaped fold should be parallel to the plane of the workpiece. And the length of this section will be 0.5 centimeters.

Therefore, when marking the folds on the workpiece, you need to measure 0.5 centimeters along one edge and twice 0.5 centimeters along the edge under the L-shaped bend.

After forming the folds, we proceed to forming the body of the pipe. To do this, we place the workpiece on the calibrating plane and tap the sheet of tin with a mallet until the profile of the shape we need is obtained. First we get a U-shaped profile, and then just a rounded profile. In this case, the folds should meet.

The third stage is the processing of the butt joint

At the final stage, we complete the manufacture of the pipe by crimping the butt joint.

We combine vertical folds. We bend the horizontal section of the L-shaped fold to the bottom. It should wrap around the vertical fold from the other edge of the workpiece. The resulting sandwich, sticking out of the pipe, is bent to the plane of the product, forming a butt joint. Moreover, the downward bend must be carried out from the L-shaped fold to the pipe plane.

At the end, we can reinforce the joint line with rivets. However, such a docking is reliable even without it.

vsetrybu.ru

How to make a pipe out of tin yourself?

To make a pipe from tin, tools and skills are needed in each specific case separately, for example, what the pipe will be used for, what diameter is needed, what length, and how important the beauty of the product is.

Option number, one pipe is needed for temporary formwork, for example, pouring a column or pillar - in this case, the tin needs to be wound into a roll, tied with wire, correct the desired diameter, tightly fasten the tie wire and use it, then simply unwind the tie wire and remove the tin from details.

Option two, the pipe is needed, for example, for drains (not super tight, but maximum functional) - in this case, you can do it according to the first option, only after adjusting the desired diameter and wire ties, you will need to stretch it with rivets along the inner edge, and cut off the excess from the outside . Thus, it is possible not to measure and cut off pieces from a sheet, but to fold, rivet and cut products in a row even from a roll of tin.

Option three, you need a hermetic, even, beautiful pipe - here you can’t do without helpers and a serious tool.

It is necessary to experimentally calculate the circumference of the required diameter, add a tolerance for locks, usually 3 cm (divided into two by 1.5 cm) and cut the metal correctly with geometrically even edges, right angles and parallel sides.

Further, retreating 1.5 cm along the edges, you need to deeply push the metal or tap through something sharp to outline the bending lines of the locks, then with a fox (a tool for bending and straightening the metal, if not, you need powerful pliers or pliers) we unbend the locks in different directions, from the plane of the canvas, so that at the moment of folding they catch on to each other like hooks.

We tap the locks on a flat hard surface so that they practically nestle.

Now we call assistants, using a pipe, a log or simply turning a few people into a pipe closes the locks, but that's not all!

In order for the pipe to be airtight, something sealing will need to be poured into the lock - rubber glue, silicone, oil paint, you can lay plasticine, you can lay a thin strip of rubber, even putty based on drying oil will do. Then put the pipe on the pipe or log and tap with a mallet (wooden sledgehammer), first the lock along the entire length, and then the entire pipe, giving it the most rounded correct form.

www.remotvet.ru

How to make a pipe with your own hands.

For self-manufacturing round pipes will require thin sheet steel, black or galvanized, with a thickness of 0.45 - 0.5 - 0.55 mm. This thickness of the material is sufficient when installing low-pressure or household ventilation, exhaust from gas equipment, drainage system. On a sheet of metal with a sharp metal scriber, using a long ruler, draw a pattern for the future pipe. Measure the length of the workpiece equal to the length pipes. If the pipe will be inserted into the next one, then add the length of the "bolt" to the length of the workpiece (for example, 7 cm). Calculate the width of the pattern by multiplying 3.14 by the inner diameter of the pipe in millimeters: D * 3.14 (mm). Add seam allowances to the resulting size - 14 mm on both sides, or 28 mm to the width of the pattern on either side. The final formula for the width of the workpiece: 3.14D + 28 (mm). Cut out the outlined workpiece from the sheet hand scissors for metal.

Along the length of the workpiece, mark and bend in different directions two edges for the seam connection of the pipe. The width of the bent edges is 7 mm. These edges can also be bent oblique, for example: for one end of the future pipe 7 mm, and for its other end - 9 mm (or 6 by 8 mm). Then the pipes will be easily and tightly enough inserted one into the other. The sequence for preparing the seam connection is shown in the figure:

To give a straight sheet of tin the shape of a pipe, you need a thick-walled metal pipe 80 - 100 mm in diameter, suspended horizontally from a board or from a flat wall in two "clamps" of sheet steel strips, as shown in the following figure. Fill the pipe pattern with prepared folds into the gap between the board and the suspended pipe, and gradually bend around the mandrel pipe to the desired shape, after each deflection, pushing (pushing) the workpiece down:

Remove the workpiece from the fixture, check how correctly and evenly it is "rolled" into the shape of the pipe. Fasten the folds into the lock. Make sure that both seam edges fit securely into each other along the entire length of the connection. Put the seamed workpiece (or part of it) on the section of the rail extended beyond the workbench. Seal the pipe seam with a wooden mallet. Settle the material along the entire seam, that is, cut it with the edge of a hammer or mallet, thus creating an additional lock that will prevent the seam edges from protruding from the joint. The reliability of the assembly can be insured with a rivet.

Irregularities and possible ribbing of a home-made pipe should be straightened on the rail with a wooden mallet. Sheet steel for the manufacture of tubular products, choose one on the surface of which does not remain at all, or an inconspicuous mark remains when it is bent and unbent. This property of the metal can be checked by slightly bending and immediately straightening the tin in the corner of the sheet. If for the manufacture of the pipe is used roll material, or a galvanized sheet, clearly cut off from the roll, then it should be cut so that the direction of bending, rolling of the workpiece coincides with the direction of the rolled roll - this will reduce the manifestation of ribs along the deflection lines. Optimal length pipes 1 m or 1.25 meters, which coincides with the transverse dimensions of standard tin sheets.

Mechanized production of pipes from thin sheet steel is carried out on machines, different ways, which are briefly described on the Duct Fabrication page.

asp-hpz.narod.ru

Useful for tinsmiths

Roof shapes. Some types.

The device of the built-in gutter on the seam roof

Laying a cornice overhang (descent) on a steel (seam) roof

Built-in gutter for iron (seam roof)

Hanging chute. Some details of the installation of the protective grid.

Two-leaf picture for an ordinary roof of a seam roof

Gutter funnels beautifully shaped

window trim copper sheet

Profiles window sills, sandriks and firewalls from a German magazine

Beautiful drain funnel from Rybinsk. Cornice style. (two-cornice)

How copper domes are covered in Munich. Some details in photos.

Downpipe production, downpipe installation. Below are interesting links for the tinsmith.

Chimneys. Pictures of chimneys in American sales catalogs and links to them

Chimney-terem. Cutting and manufacturing

Chimney-terem. Cutting and fabrication page 2

Roof leaks

Mounting snow barriers

Simple Roofs Austria 1

Simple Rooftops Austria 2

Simple Roofs of Austria 3

Tin decorations on Red Square

Seam Rolling Machine for Rolling Double Roof Seam

About the roof of church bulbs and about the overhead tin

Roofing in a flat checker

Roofing in a radius shaku

Signs of hack work in tin and roofing

About myths and real complexity in the craft of a tinsmith

tool

Varieties of manual and electric scissors for metal

Electric scissors: the experience of a long-term user

Rack compasses

Photos rack compass

Description of the crusher for bending ventilation rectangular boxes

Description of the grinder for bending simple ordinary paintings

Comb bender with electric drive designed by Galaktionov

Comb bender for seam roofing designed by Tatievskiy

Silina manual comb bender

reamers

Reflections on reamer cutting

Construction of a development of a truncated cone

Square transition from a larger square to a smaller one.

Branches and their properties. Basic concepts

A simple way to cut bends and elbows using the semicircle height method

3-part branch reamer: 1 link and 2 half-links (cups)

Cutting reamers of a standard elbow: 3 links and 2 half links

Open the reamers of the furnace elbow from tin using the radial serif method. (100 mm. 90 gr.)

Construction of a development of pants (trouser-shaped tee)

zigmachines

Detail sketch possible option homemade zigmachine

circuit diagram and description of a homemade zigmachine

Explanatory sketch of the shafts of a homemade sigmachine

Schematic diagram of the simplest zigmachine. On bushings and with rear axle

Zigma machine weighing 6.5 kg.

pictures of sigmachine 8 kg

Zigmashina VMS-71. Appearance

Drawing of the internal parts of the zigmachine --VMS-71

Several antique zigmachines from America

old zigmachine

vintage zigmachine 2

How to make a zigmachine yourself.

Rollers for zigmachine

bead rolling sequence

tin

Tinsmith's advice

Simple decorations on the roof and ventilation p.2

The simplest decorations on the roof and ventilation page 1

Upholstery of doors and hatches with tin in an "envelope"

Tinsmith chest made of galvanized sheet

diplomat for instrument

3 ways to attach the bottoms and covers of suitcases

Procedure for riveting long pipes

If the seam is torn

Rolling punching scoring rollers

List of literature on tin and roofing work

Making spheres different types

used fan for sale

buy used fan

stuk-stuk.narod.ru

It is not uncommon for a situation where there is a need to create an additional branch from the main or internal water supply network. Such a need may also arise in an apartment. high-rise building, and in a country cottage or on suburban area.

Connecting a new house to a central water supply system, installing additional plumbing equipment or various household appliances in a house or apartment - all this requires tapping into the existing water supply system.

To implement the tie-in to the water supply, you will need auxiliary parts - shut-off valves, which can be purchased here: http://www.sm2000.ru/katalog-detaley-truboprovodov/zapornaya-armatura/.

Insertion into the backbone network

All work related to the use of a centralized water supply system in without fail must be approved by the relevant authorities.

Difficulties with coordination may arise if your site is not equipped with a central sewerage system. In such a situation, the installation of a septic tank on the site in accordance with existing sanitary standards can serve as a solution to the issue.

Insertion is possible in two modes:

with water supply cut off main pipeline by welding a branch;
without turning off the water supply - using a saddle.

Organization of a branch from the internal water supply

To install a washing or dishwasher, boiler or additional washbasin in a house or apartment, you will need to make a number of plumbing work.

If your communications are conducted using metal-plastic pipes, there will be no special problems when tapping into the water supply. The pipe is sawn in a predetermined place, the necessary piece is cut off and a tee is installed in its place.

The situation is more complicated in a situation where you have to crash into an old steel water pipe. In this case, you will need welding work for tapping into a tee pipe.

What else can be difficult? First of all, with the location of the pipe into which it is necessary to make a tie-in.

If it is partially or completely "drowned" in a cement screed or tile, it will not be possible to cut it. Perhaps it’s just an unfortunate location of the pipe, an attempt to cut which can turn into big problems.

In this situation, various plumbing fixtures will save the situation: a curved flange, an adapter, and much more.

How to make a drain in a private house with your own hands

Connecting the edges of a thin sheet metal it is most often made in the castle - by clamping one edge to the other, but occasionally other methods are used, which in the works of the young master may just be needed more often. These are the methods.

The edges of the sheets can simply be soldered. It is clear that this will be the most fragile way, especially if the metal sheets are thin. This will be a butt joint (1). Such a connection can be used where strength is not required, but an inconspicuous connection is needed. In thicker sheets, the butt joint is made with teeth (2). This is actually done not by tinsmiths, but by coppersmiths - craftsmen who make copper utensils, tanks, pipes, caps, etc. The butt joint can be made stronger by soldering a plate (3) on the inside. This will be a butt with an overlay. Stronger connection - overlap (4). One edge is superimposed on the other, the seam is soldered or fastened with rivets. But this connection already has a protruding edge, which is not always convenient. You can bend the edges at one edge and at the other, hook them and squeeze them with mallet blows. This will already be a simple lock (5).

The most common connection method is a double lock (6). It is done like this. In one piece, the edge is bent at a right angle, in the second, the edge is also bent, but in the other direction, and pressed against the piece, and then this edge is bent at a right angle in the opposite direction. Both bent edges are connected to each other, bent towards the first edge, and the seam is pierced with a mallet. On the reverse side, it will be smoother, which must be taken into account when joining in this way. The sequential course of work is schematically shown in the following figure:

All kinds of tin products are most often connected double lock.

Occasionally, tinsmiths use a connection with rivets. However, this method is more often used when it is necessary to rivet a handle, an eyelet, a strip, etc. Occasionally, the seams are strengthened with rivets into the overlay and with a simple lock. They usually rivet with small rivets, preferably with wide flat caps, in a cold way. In rough work, tinsmiths prefer rivets rolled from a piece of tin. To make them, you need to have a piece of iron with holes of different diameters, or a riveter. A diamond-shaped piece of tin is rolled up with a hammer with a hammer or round-nose pliers, inserted into a riveter, into a hole of a suitable diameter, and the head is riveted. These rivets are soft but certainly don't have the neat look of solid rivets.

Almost all work with thin metal is based on the plasticity of the metal, its ability to bend and flatten. But the master must skillfully use his tool, otherwise these same properties will go to the detriment of the work. How and why remains to be seen.

The main and very first work of the master is the ability to bend the fold, in other words, to bend the edge of the sheet. The work is simple, but also very responsible, since further processes depend on it. It is necessary to bend the fold for a variety of needs: for seam joints, and for edges, for inserting bottoms and others. It is necessary to ensure that the metal only bends, but does not flatten out at the same time. If the metal in the fold is flattened, it will expand. The fold edge will come out bent and the surface of the sheet will warp.

In rough work, where the fold is folded wide, this makes almost no difference. But where greater precision and finesse are required, it will be very noticeable. Let's explain with an example what we can do. Suppose we want to make a tube out of tin and connect it with a double lock. They unfolded the folds with an iron hammer, began to roll up the tube and connect the seam, but it turns out that it is very difficult to connect the seam; the folds turned out to be bent due to the riveting of the metal with a hammer.

Therefore, the folds should always be bent with a wooden mallet on the sharp iron edge of a scrap, iron strip or scraper corner.

The work proceeds in this order. First of all, a fold line is drawn with a thickness gauge. The thicker the metal and the rougher the work, the wider the fold can be taken (10-20 mm, on thin sheet the fold is taken at 3-5 mm). They put the sheet on the edge of the scraper (or devices replacing it) with a fold line, with quick and accurate blows with a mallet beat off this line, first at the ends, and then along the entire length of the fold.

Then they bend the edge of the fold at a right angle, put it on the anvil with the outer side and straighten it with the inner blows of the mallet.

Suppose that you need to bend the fold of a tin cylinder.

It is clear that the diameter of the outer edge of the bent fold will be greater than the diameter of its inner circumference. Therefore, the metal must be riveted along the entire fold, stronger at the outer edge, weaker towards the cylinder.

The fold must be bent with an iron hammer. The cylinder is taken in the left hand, the width of the bend is marked from the inside with a thickness gauge and applied to the edge of the support or scrap at an obtuse angle, after which they beat the future fold with the toe of a hammer, beating off the fold line and riveting the edge. Light blows of the hammer are directed so as to rivet the outer edge more strongly. Having bypassed the full circle, reduce the angle of inclination of the cylinder, placing it steeper to the anvil, and continue the work in the same order. It is repeated again and again, all reducing the angle of inclination to a straight line. With such a gradual knocking out, the fold can be bent at a right angle, and it will not burst anywhere. The bent fold is placed on the stove and straightened with mallet blows.

The bottom can already be attached to such a cylinder with a fold with a double lock, only at the circle for the bottom it is necessary to bend the fold or solder the bottom with solder.

Just as they bend the fold on the cylinder, they also do it when the edge of the tin product needs to be strengthened and made thicker by rolling a wire into it. The work is carried out in the same order, but with a mallet and without beating off the sharp edge of the fold. The fold should come out smoothly, a lapel must be made on the metal, calculating the width of this lapel according to the thickness of the wire that will go in there.

The width should be taken at about three wire diameters, adding a little to the thickness of the metal. When the fold is bent at a right angle, it is bent back with a mallet, turning the cylinder on a round anvil. Then they put it on the stove, insert the wire and fix it with a few blows of the mallet on the lapel. With a mallet on a round anvil and a plate, they finally press and smooth the lapel. Turning the product edge up, straighten the rolled edge from above. If the lapel turned out to be not wide enough, it is now very easy to fix it by piercing the top with a mallet with a pull of the blow outward. On products with straight edges, rolling the wire into the edge is, of course, even easier.

Of the techniques for processing thin metal, based on riveting and drawing metal, a young master should definitely familiarize himself with knocking out. By knocking out a flat plate of metal, a various convex shape is given. In this way, it is possible to knock out the bottoms and covers of boilers, hoods and a variety of streamlined parts for aircraft models, plating for ship models, etc. Above, we already had a similar job - this knocking out of a bucket.

Knocking out is a job that requires patience. You can not hit once or twice with a hammer and get good hood. It is necessary to slowly beat with a hammer, all the time moving the product, gradually increasing the depth of drawing and finally straightening and smoothing the surface of the product with light blows.

There are basically two ways to pull. The first way is when the metal is flattened on a convex anvil, starting from the middle to the edges. The middle will be the thinnest, but the product will be convex. The work is carried out with an iron hammer. According to the second method, they are knocked out with a mallet or a hammer with a round end on a mandrel (matrix) having the corresponding shape.

As an example, we give the knocking out of the same bucket. On a wooden bowl or a thick board, you need to make several round recesses of various depths. They are cut out semicircular chisel and then stroked with blows of a round hammer. A round plate of metal is placed over the first recess and a hammer or a round mallet is knocked out until a properly rounded surface without wrinkles is obtained. The same technique is repeated in the following, deeper matrices. In conclusion, we will get a bucket along the profile of the matrix. According to a different profile and a different cutting, we could get a different shape.

Sometimes a young master will have to knock out longitudinal recesses on thin metal plates. The cross section of such a plate will turn out to be figured, and the plate will become rigid.

As in any other business, the marking and cutting of the material, the beginning of work, is a very important operation, on which further success depends. From this it is clear that this work requires special care and accuracy. The most simple work- this is cutting and making a simple open rectangular box with upright or divergent sides, with or without a sock.

From a sheet of tin cut out a rectangle of the appropriate size (a). When cutting, it is necessary to take into account the area of the bottom and the height of the walls. A thickness gauge draws a line of folds. One corner is cut off if you need to make a sock in the box. Turning the sheet over on the board, cut off the corners of the bisector of the corners with the toe of the hammer approximately to the border of the future bends of the walls (b). Turning the sheet over again, on the edge of the anvil (a piece of iron), they bend the sides with a mallet (c), but not quite. They are trimmed at the rectangular end of the anvil and bent with a mallet close to the wall (d). The cut corner for the toe remains not bent, it is slightly flattened, making a gutter out of it. The box is ready (e).

The work, as you can see, is quite simple, but it must also be done carefully.

Cutting and manufacturing cylindrical shapes presents no particular difficulty. For the cylinder, it is necessary to cut out a rectangle equal to the height of the future pipe, and a length of 3.14 of the diameter of this pipe with an increase in seam rolling.

In the manufacture of conical products (bucket, funnel and others), all methods of work will remain the same, only when cutting you will have to remember the geometry. All conical objects must be correctly depicted in a sweep, and this is the most important thing.

Let's take the easiest way to cut. Let's try to make a conical bucket. First of all, you need to draw its average section, along the axis. It will appear as a trapezoid; continue the sides of the trapezoid until they intersect. The intersection point is the center from which two arcs are drawn - from the long base of the trapezoid and from the short one. You will get a ring, from a part of which the surface of the conical bucket will be made. The width of this ring is the height of the bucket. You just need to remember to add to roll up the top edge and bend the bottom.

The length of the part of this ring we need is determined by the diameter of the bucket. Approximately three diameters with an addition for a double lock is what you need to take from the ring. Having set aside 3.14 diameters of the outer hole or the bottom of the bucket along the upper or lower arc, a line is drawn along the radius. Increases for a double lock are already made parallel to these radial lines. This will cut the surface of the bucket. Any conical shape is exactly drawn in the same way, whether it is a whole or a truncated cone: the height of the figure is plotted along the radius, and the length of the scan is along the circumference.

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