How to lay tiles correctly: technology and video tutorial. Correct wall layout. Preparing the floor surface for tiling

Not every one of us knows how to properly lay tiles in the bathroom. But, in fact, the process of laying tiles is not at all so complicated, you just need to use the photo and video instructions: laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands.

You only need to have basic skills, a little theoretical knowledge and, of course, common sense. The material below will help you.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom

So, first of all, the preparatory process:

1. - removal of the old coating from the walls;
2. - cleaning the surface from dust;
3. - checking the verticality of the walls using a level;
4. - leveling the walls with plaster (if necessary) and covering them with soil.
   After graduation preparatory phase, already the name is available tiles and tools, you can start laying.

As mentioned above, there is nothing complicated in the technology of laying tiles in the bathroom. The main thing is to be careful and constantly monitor such nuances as the horizontal and vertical rows. To make it easier for you, use our helpful tips:

• You need to start by laying out the bottom row of tiles, this is done along each wall, and the glue in this process does not participate. So it becomes clear to you correct scheme styling.
• In the event that after laying the last whole tile on the wall you see a gap whose width is less than 25 mm, the laying pattern should be changed, because it is much easier to cut the first tiles in rows than to adjust them in width later.
• Next, make marks where the beginning and end of the row of tiles are located. Now you need to mark on the wall with a pencil the places where the first and final tiles of the row are located.
• Using a plumb bob, mark how the vertical rows are arranged so as not to deviate vertically.
• The easiest way is to do the styling a little at a time. To do this, using chalk, you need to divide the wall into sectors (the height of the sector is four tiles).
• It is very important in the process of laying to check the evenness of the rows of tiles, the level will help you with this.
• When laying tiles, along its edges, it is necessary to use special separators - plastic crosses. This will give you the same thickness. tile joints over the entire surface.
• If you are a beginner and laying tiles for the first time, it is better to cement mortar use the adhesive composition, it is easier to work with it and you do not need to understand the "cooking" technique.
• Adhesives are usually applied to the walls themselves. Important nuance consists in evenly smearing the walls and in the very consistency of the glue (not thick, but not liquid).
• When laying tiles on vertical surfaces, use a quick-setting adhesive mixture.
• When laying the next tile, press it firmly against the wall on which the adhesive is located.
• The glue that has come out is removed with a sponge or, if it has already dried up, with a wooden or plastic spatula (in no case metal).
• In the event that it is necessary to make a recess certain form, you can use tongs to break tiles.

Actually, on this the main process of laying tiles is over, all that remains is grouting. It can be done using a rubber trowel, moving along the diagonal of the tile. The grout dries fairly quickly. Most often, after finishing work, it is allowed to start washing the tiles almost immediately.
So, now you know that laying tiles is a rather painstaking job and requires accuracy. But it is quite possible to cope with it on your own, having studied more materials and recommendations, as well as watching videos and using the advice of experienced craftsmen.

Today there is great amount options for ceramics for cladding. Now let's talk about options for your bathroom. There are matte-dark, pale pastel, glossy, light, with and without relief patterns, toilet tiles.

Photos of various options will be presented below to make it easier for you to decide on colors, combination and tile laying option for the implementation of your project.

A little about the design of tiles for the toilet

Despite the huge number of options, there are certain limitations in terms of tile selection. They are connected with the fact that the tile tends to give the room different kinds and change it not only for the better, but also for the worse, for example:

• Too colorful geometric patterns on the floor they give the impression that the floor plane is uneven;
• The use of dark tones in an insufficiently lit room is an extremely unfortunate option;
• light top and dark bottom- traditionally, but completely inappropriate if your toilet room not big size. This combination will only make it even smaller.

So, in order to successfully complete the lining of the bathroom, it is important to know about the optical effects that are obtained depending on the styling techniques. Taking advantage design advice, you can visually enlarge, expand, stretch the space, hide certain asymmetries.

To get a visually high ceiling

For example, if you want to "get" high ceiling use these tips:

1 - do not lay the finishing elements horizontally, but vertically;
2 - as for decorative details, it is better that they are located at eye level;
3 - the use of vertically elongated colorful stripes in the decor will help you.

To visually enlarge a narrow toilet

Of course, this is not all professional tricks and subtleties. In fact, there are many more of them than in the list above. For example, glossy tiles and gloss emanating from mirror details, visually enlarges the space, but creates a slightly cold impression. As for matte tiles, then it is more “warm”, but at the same time visually reduces the volume.

You can endlessly create original decor compositions using a variety of tile combinations. But hold on to your imagination if you plan to lay the tiles yourself. After all, complex drawings are quite difficult to perform. If you are a beginner finisher, then it is better to choose tiles with large sizes of elements and the usual layout option.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom video instruction

The most popular finishing material for the bathroom is ceramic tiles. For this reason, the article below will discuss how to lay tiles in the bathroom, video, photo and detailed instructions help you in this work.

How does bathroom tiling begin?

Decide on the scope of work - that's where to start. What is needed for this:

1. — perform the necessary measurements;
2. - calculate total area for facing;
3. - divide the resulting figure by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone tile;
4. - increase the amount that you received by about 10% (this will be waste and marriage).

Do-it-yourself tile laying

Typically, laying tiles begins with the walls, after which they move on to the flooring. But, you can do it in reverse order. If you decide to start with the walls, be sure to leave a small gap between the first row of tiles and the floor (although this is not necessary for all tiling methods). Even if in the end the gap turns out to be quite large, you can subsequently close it with a plinth.

Ways of laying tiles on the wall are different. For example, under the bath and behind the bath tiles do not fit. Usually the installation starts from the sides of the bathtub and from the corner that is the most prominent in the bathroom.

There is another option for laying tiles in the bathroom. Here it is necessary to determine the number of whole tiles that you will lay on the wall, starting from the top, taking into account the thickness of the seam. In this case, the tiles begin to be laid from the second row, and not from the first.

To do this, at the level of the second row, it is necessary to fix a rail or square with self-tapping screws, which will serve as a support and an entry level. According to this scheme, the first row will be laid last, it will be trimmed in place when you have already laid out the entire surface.

As for the order of laying, variations are also possible here. For example, first a horizontal row is laid, then the next, and so on. Perhaps you will lay the tiles with a step. In any case, whichever method you choose, marking the walls is what needs to be done first of all. The straight lines that you draw will serve as a guide during installation. In the lower corner, at a height that is equal to the height of the tile, you need to put a risk. From it, along the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall in terms of level, you need to draw a line, which then should return to the risk.

The adhesive must be applied with a notched trowel, it makes it possible to create grooves on the adhesive surface. The manufacturer indicates the size of the teeth (trowel number). Cover a small area of ​​the surface with glue so that you have time to lay the tiles before the glue sets.

Once you've done this, carefully place the tile in place, tapping it lightly to level it. If necessary, use a rubber mallet.

As for the correct installation, you can check it with a level. To ensure that the gaps are uniform between the individual plates over the entire surface, use special crosses. To learn more about the process of laying tiles in the bathroom, this video will help you.

Everyone knows that tile is an excellent finishing material that is ideal for finishing bathrooms. The tiled surface is impact resistant high temperatures and humidity, perfectly washes and is not afraid household chemicals. For this reason, we will consider various options laying tiles in the bathroom, photos and expert advice will help us understand everything in detail.

Choosing how to lay tiles

There are several options for laying tiles:
1. Direct laying. This option is considered the simplest, it is usually recommended for beginners.

A little advice!
If your bathroom has low ceiling, tall rectangular tiles in conjunction with straight laying will help you visually "lift" the walls.

2. Diagonal styling. In this case, you will get a spectacular surface that is well suited for a room that has a square shape.
This method has slight advantage- with its help, the masking of oblique walls is most successful. But for a beginner, this styling option is somewhat complicated.

3. Laying "chess pattern". This option is considered classic, tiles of two colors are used. Like the previous version, it will look good in a square room.

4. Offset laying. Perfect option for a room with rectangular shape. The tile of each subsequent row is placed with an offset relative to the tile of the previous row.

Advice!
If you are interested in this laying method, use materials that have a rectangular shape, where the lengths of the sides are related to each other as 2: 1. That is, the tile will have a length of 60cm and a width of 30cm.

5. Mosaic tiles. In this case, the most different colors and sizes. But it is worthwhile to understand that experienced craftsmen should be engaged in such work.

So, you have decided for yourself on the way of laying. Next, it is necessary to mark the location of the tiles in rows on the surface, it is also necessary to note the location of such elements as borders, inserts and other decorative details.

Make sure that there are no narrow strips of tiles at the joints of the walls with the floor, at the doorway and in the corners.
That's all, you can safely proceed to the laying process itself!

Repair is always accompanied by an anticipation of joy and change for the better. What can cheer you up like an updated interior, especially when it comes to the bathroom? New sparkling plumbing fashion lamps, stylish lockers, covered with bright tiled walls - after visiting such a room, you feel an unprecedented burst of energy. However, initial enthusiasm does not always mean an excellent result.

Many, trying to save money, decide to lay the tiles in the bathroom on their own. Nevertheless, there are so many nuances in this work that even after reading various instructions and manuals for working with tiles or after consulting with professionals, it is very difficult to cope with "excellent". The result of this amateur performance can be very deplorable: crooked rows, uneven or too wide seams or even worse - obvious inconsistencies at the corners and crumbling tiles in a month or two. And the worst thing is that you can fix it only by knocking down all the tiles and putting it again. To prevent this from happening, you can hire professionals - or take into account how to properly lay tile in the bathroom. First of all, you need to understand what mistakes can be made at various stages of installation and try to avoid them.

The most common mistakes

Laying tiles in the toilet and bathroom is quite difficult: the work can go to waste due to the slightest error. If the tile lies unevenly, crumbles or does not fit, this may be due to the following errors:

Attention. Another common mistake is trying to start laying by measuring from the tiles already laid on the floor. If the floor has not been pre-leveled, the curvature will go to the walls.

It’s actually not difficult to avoid the mistakes listed above: it’s enough to be conscientious about the repair and take into account every little thing.

Working by the rules: important points when lining the bathroom

Despite the apparent complexity, it is quite possible to lay tiles in the bathroom yourself, and use step by step instructions this is not allowed. However, no matter what walls and materials you have to work with, you should definitely follow fairly simple rules.

Rule number 1 Quality materials - the key to success

Save on tiles or glue - not too much a good idea. Let the tile and building materials cost a little more, but the beauty and strength will remain for many years.

Rule number 2 Careful surface preparation - do not ignore!

Need a perfect result? It is possible only on a flat wall. Therefore, you should not spare the time and properly primed, and if necessary - and putty the walls or even make concrete screed gender. You can start work only after all the materials applied to the floor and walls have dried.

Rule #3 Level, level and again level

Accuracy is the most important condition when working with tiles. In order for the tile to lay perfectly, you must use the level. It will be required constantly when:

• Checking the angle between wall and floor;
• Evaluation of surface evenness;
• Checking the quality of laying to prevent "collapse of the wall";
• Flawless fit when cutting and joining corners.

A laser level capable of measuring in two planes will save a lot of time, but for a single work, a regular bubble level is also quite suitable. The main thing is to take measurements regularly.

Rule #4 Only up

At professional craftsmen there is no question whether to start laying tiles from above or below: they do an excellent job in both cases. Those who are far from the title of guru do not have to choose: the tiles should be laid strictly from the bottom up, and in the following sequence:

• Measure the level of the angle between the wall and the floor;
• Measure between the wall and the floor a distance equal to about half the tile;
• Mark this gap along the entire wall by drawing a line with a marker or attaching a wooden rail at the selected level;
• Lay out a row of tiles with the bottom edge along the marked line;
• Lay out the bottommost row of tiles, trimming them according to the curvature of the floor.

With this method of laying, the visible rows of tiles will look perfectly even, and the possible unevenness of the bottom row will easily hide behind the baseboard or plumbing.

Advice. To comply even seam plastic crosses should be used. They are different sizes- millimeter ones are suitable for thin seams, wide ones will be obtained using 2.5 mm crosses.

Rule number 5 Angle - any. The floor is perfect

As mentioned above, the floor under the tiles must be perfectly flat. When all the work on leveling the surface has been carried out, it remains to determine how to properly lay the tiles on the floor: if the reference angle does not play a special role for professionals, then when laying it yourself, it is important to do the following:

• Carefully measure the perpendicularity of the walls and floor;
• Draw the floor into squares and calculate the sequence of laying tiles;
• Start laying tiles from the most visible corner, gradually moving towards the center of the room;
• When the floor is completely laid out, mask the small gaps between the wall and the floor by inserting trimmed tiles.

Thus, on the visible part of the floor it will turn out beautiful drawing, and the corners will be carefully masked.

Rule No. 6 An even angle is good, but an uneven one is bad!

To avoid ugly joints that can spoil the whole look of the bathroom, adjust the tiles in the corners as follows:

• Start laying from the most visible wall;
• Lay out the corners of adjoining walls with trimmed tiles;
• Carefully remove the seam under the profile or grout.

If the laying started from the side wall, it is best to cut the tiles symmetrically on both sides to meet the visible corners.

Rule number 7 Glue - do not be sorry!

To make the tile stand as firmly as possible, it is advisable to apply glue with a notched trowel around the entire perimeter of the tile and properly coat the center. When laying on a wooden floor, it is also desirable to apply a layer of glue on its surface.

Attention. The amount of adhesive applied must be carefully controlled: too thin layer will lead to the formation of voids, too thick - will not allow the tile to adhere firmly to the surface.

Rule #8 One, two, three - three, three, three!

Beautiful seams will make the wall decoration neat and attractive. But for this it is important to consider the following nuances:

• The grout will lie better on the slightly moistened edges of the tile;
• Before grouting, tiles must be perfectly clean;
• Diluted material can only be used for the first 20 minutes;
• When grouting, the spatula or float is held at an angle of 90 °;
• The seams should be filled as tightly as possible;
• Best of all, excess grout is washed off 5-7 minutes after application.

The main thing is not to try to embrace the immensity. Rub the tiles should be slowly, small areas- in this case, the result will be much better.

It's obvious that correct styling bathroom tiles are not so much difficult as painstaking work. However, all efforts will certainly be rewarded: evenly laid tiles will delight the eye with a bright pattern, neat seams and exceptional strength for more than one year.

We offer you to watch the video of Anatoly Aristov:

There is no need to turn to the services of expensive masters for laying tiles. At right approach and preparation, cladding costs can be minimized. Given the average cost of laying tiles, the savings can be significant. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the rules if it is planned to lay tiles with your own hands, in order for the result to be the most attractive, functional and durable. So, laying tiles involves the following steps:

1. surface preparation (screed formation, wall plastering);
2. marking the location of the first row and installing support stops;
3. laying the first row or several multidirectional rows according to the markup;
4. filling the entire area with solid tiles;
5. cutting and laying tiles to fill the remaining areas;
6. grouting (jointing).

Tiling tools

The tool required for surface preparation is selected depending on the required operations and work execution technologies. Directly for installation you will need the following:

• trowel, trowel, notched trowel, rubber spatula, small level (30-40 cm), medium level (60-80 cm), plumb line, rubber mallet, solution container. In places where the whole tile does not fit, you will need to cut and cut it, for this you will need: a tile cutter (mechanical or electric), pliers or wire cutters, a large needle file or sandpaper, Bulgarian.

Calculate the amount of materials!

In order to properly evaluate required amount tiles, you should not only measure the square of the surface for cladding, but also estimate the number of tiles to be cut into pieces. It all depends on the complexity of the walls and floor and the presence of all kinds of obstacles in the form of pipes, corners, protrusions in the wall, etc. Approximately follows over the calculated amount square meters take more tiles sufficient for laying two rows along two adjacent walls.

For gluing tiles, it is best to use specialized adhesives. This is especially true for bathroom and kitchen cladding, where moisture-resistant compounds are required. Moreover, when proper preparation surface, the consumption of mortar is minimal, and the cost of laying is significantly reduced.

Learn more about calculating materials for tile work.

Step 1. Surface preparation

In order for the tiled surface to be perfectly flat and durable, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface. In no case should you rely on the fact that small irregularities on the floor or wall can be closed by using more mortar under tiles. A high-quality result can only be achieved when the entire material is laid on a uniformly small layer of adhesive.

Before laying tiles on the floor, a screed must be formed. In the bathroom and toilet, a waterproofing layer is necessarily formed. The screed can be made, and wet method, adhering to relevant technologies. It is best to lay tiles on concrete base, that is, on wet screed. If the old coating is being replaced, then it is, and the surface is leveled with cement mortar.

In order to tile the walls with tiles, it is necessary to get rid of all the old coating and plaster the walls with the obligatory reinforcement with construction mesh. It's best to do this. It is not worth using putty, as well as achieving perfect smooth surface, this may impair the adhesion of the adhesive.

All plinths are dismantled, platbands on doorway and sills. The prepared surface must be cleaned of dust, dirt and primed.

If you are confident in the reliability of the layer old tiles or just want to save time - check out. But in any case, this practice is only suitable for notorious lazy people.

Step 2. Layout and installation of supports

options non-standard styling floor coverings

Before laying, it is necessary to prepare the markings and stops for the first row, along which the tiles will be installed.

Walls

Attached at the bottom plastic corner or a wooden lath on which the first row will rest. Using a plumb line, a line is drawn to control the verticality of the installation. In the case of using multi-colored tiles or various types mosaic laying it is best to mark with marks the places of laying other than the mass of tiles.

Floor

The line of the spaced edge of the tiles of the first row is drawn. The locations of the tiles are marked, which will differ from the main mass when the pattern is formed. Laying floor tiles starts from the far corner. In this case, if necessary, shift the location of the first tile so that a solid fragment is laid at the entrance without the need to trim it. The calculations take into account the size of not only the tiles, but also the gap between them.

Step 3. Laying solid tiles

traditional tiling schemes

Having prepared the markup and landmarks, you can start laying. To do this, the tile adhesive solution is applied to the wall with a notched trowel as thick as the depth of the teeth. The tile leans first on the support or on the crosses below, after which you need to carefully place the tile with your own hands on the mortar. It is not necessary to press it. Slightly turning the tile along the axis with light movements achieves maximum adhesion of the product with the mortar.

Remember that it will be problematic to remove the tile from the surface after laying it on the mortar, so you should immediately place it as correctly as possible. You can only slightly move it to the side. Check the correctness of the installation using a level in all directions and in relation to the already laid rows. If it is necessary to deepen the tile somewhat, a rubber mallet is used. Crosses are located in the corners to maintain gaps. After that, you can proceed to further installation.

It is impossible to press the tile strongly so that the solution protrudes along the edges. All gaps between them should be as clean as possible. In the future, grout will be used, which will prevent moisture and dirt from getting under the tile and give an aesthetic appearance to the entire surface.

When the hand is already full, you can apply the mortar, taking into account the laying of several tiles at a time. In this case, after the distribution of the solution, the tile is installed in its place and sits on the solution with small circular movements. After that, the crosses are quickly distributed into the gaps and, with the help of the level, the entire stacked row is pressed in various directions, adjusting it to the general level.

After completing the filling of the first row, it is best to wait until the glue under it seizes normally. After that, it will be much easier to lay subsequent tiles on the wall. It is important to remember that if, after laying the next row, it is decided to take a break in work, then all the mortar that is not under the tile, but along the edges, must be removed. If this is not done, and it dries up, then you will have to chip off before continuing work. hardened solution, which will affect the strength of the connection of already laid tiles. Also, all excess mortar is removed in places that are left for laying cut tiles.

Step 4. Filling in the Remaining Areas

Having laid out the entire space where solid tiles are used, you can start cutting the missing pieces and installing them. you can also use a glass cutter, but it is better to use a manual, machine or electric tile cutter, in extreme cases, a grinder is also suitable. The latter option will have a lot of dust, so pruning is best done outdoors. The marking of the tiles is made taking into account the gaps on all sides.

In order to form an uneven cut, either a manual tile cutter-nippers or an electric machine with a diamond wheel is used. More details on how to do this are written below.

Step 5. Grout (jointing)

After fully laying the tiles on the wall or floor, you should wait for drying adhesive solution. After that, all the crosses between the tiles are removed, and the seams are jointed. To do this, you can use grouts on cement base, silicone or epoxy. It is first of all necessary to select a suitable grout according to color design the selected coverage. In terms of characteristics, they differ little from each other, except for the method of preparation and use. cement grout It is distributed dry and must be diluted with water immediately before use. Silicone and epoxy grouts are sold ready-to-use in sealed packages.

Before jointing, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the tiles and the seams between them. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose. Thereafter, if silicone or epoxy grout, the edges of the tiles are additionally glued with masking tape. If this is not done, then the dried mixture will be difficult to clean off the glazed surface of the tile.

Next, using a rubber spatula, a small amount of grout is applied over the seam and pressed inward. Putting a rubber spatula across the seam, and swiping it with pressure, the excess is removed. In this case, the seam deepens a little and is compared.

Remove masking tape and the remains of the grout should be after it has completely dried. Having cleaned and washed the entire tiled surface, the work can be considered completed.

Note: installation is carried out in a similar way ceramic tiles. Differences partly relate only to the nuances in the ways of cutting tiles.

A bit about cutting tiles

Virtually no tiling job is complete without the need for trimming. You can make it yourself different ways: starting from the glass cutter and ending with modern machines with a diamond cutting wheel. If a mechanical hand tool, the process is similar to cutting glass. In this case, the cutting wheel draws a line along the markings on the glazed side of the tile. After that, demolition is performed. Floor tiles are more massive and cannot be cut beautifully with a glass cutter. For all types of tile cutters, the cutting wheel has a significantly larger diameter of 1.6 cm to form a deeper cut.

For example, consider the option of cutting using a mechanical machine tile cutter:

1. Such a tile cutter has a platform for placing tiles with limiters, on which the markings of the ruler are applied. This facilitates the process of cutting a whole row of tiles of the same size. Set up limiters required distance so that the intended cut line falls on the line in the middle of the tool.
2. In the upper part of the tool, a carriage runs along two guides, equipped with a cutting wheel and a folding stop, in which the petals are located at an angle to each other, as well as a lever. We take the carriage to the edge farthest from us. A wheel is attached to the edge of the tile and with pressure is drawn along its surface along the cut line.
3. After that, the emphasis on the carriage is located in the middle of the cut and the tile is made with light pressure.

The difficult moment is not a straight cut and not diagonally, but figured cutouts with a semicircular shape or several bends for the output of wires, bypassing sockets or exit water pipes. In this case, a cutout shape is outlined on the glazed side, and the line is carefully drawn with a cutting wheel of a manual tile cutter. After that, you can bite off the unnecessary part of the tile in pieces until only the part that is necessary in shape remains. The resulting edge will turn out to be quite uneven; a file or sandpaper is used to solve this problem.

Using electric machine the entire part that should be removed on the tile before marking is cut into thin strips and bitten off, the edge is also compared with a file.

• It is good if a tile fits along the length of the row without the need for trimming the extreme one. If this is not the case, then the laying row should be shifted so that last tile was whole. If at the same time the remaining gap requires a fragment of 1-2 cm, the row is still shifted in order to put wider pieces along the two edges. This will eliminate the need for time-consuming cutting of narrow strips of tile.
• The same applies to marking the position of the rows in height, especially when laying is not done under the ceiling, but up to a certain level, for example, tiles are often laid in the kitchen. It is worth distributing the rows in such a way that the first lower row is formed from pieces, and the upper one from solid tiles. It is better to start laying with whole tiles, while raising the initial support bar to the required level.
• Laying tiles in the corridor is best, starting from filling the space along long walls, leaving a gap of one tile in the middle or from one of the edges. At the same time, it is imperative to apply marking lines in order not to go astray and not to make the remaining opening narrower than the tile.
• If various laying options are used in the form of a figured construction or using tiles various colors, it is necessary to designate in advance the locations of tiles that are different in shape, direction or design. It is often used to divide individual tiles diagonally to form a pattern using the distribution of joints. In this case, it is better to leave the places with the installation of cut tiles to be filled last.
• Be sure to read the instructions for the tile adhesive used. Some options involve wetting the surface of the tile before installing it on a layer of adhesive applied to the wall.

Video: laying tiles on the floor

Video: laying tiles on the wall

Before anyone who is going to make repairs in their apartment or house, the question will definitely arise, how to lay the tile yourself. Well, let's answer it.

The first stage is the preparation of materials and tools

Installation of tiles on the walls

List of materials and tools

• directly tile
• Glue mixture
• Grout
• Tile cutter, glass cutter or grinder
• Spatula for applying glue and grout
• Primer
• Drill with whisk attachment
• 2 containers (for glue and grout)
• Level
• rubber mallet
• Brush

Now we can proceed to the second stage - surface preparation.

Preparing before laying tiles

In order to lay the tile yourself with high quality, you must definitely pay attention to the surface that you are going to veneer.

If this is a wall, then you should check whether it is even, or you will first have to plaster it, lay drywall (depending on the wishes of the owners). It is permissible if there are irregularities up to 5 mm on the wall - these can be corrected by applying a slightly larger adhesive solution to the tile itself.

But if there is more, then this method of leveling will not work, since the tile can simply fall off one fine day.

With the floor, irregularities up to 8 mm are permissible, again - we will level them manually, just when we lay the tile.

Then take a brush and prime the surface. This stage is not at all mandatory, however, it is it that improves the adhesion of the solution to the wall, which, undoubtedly, in general, will affect the quality of the installation.

Important! After priming, you need to wait exactly as long as it is written on the package.

In addition, if you are going to lay tiles on the walls, you should take care of the so-called "starting point", which will be a timber, fixed on the wall in level. In this case, you will have to use the help of loved ones, since it is unlikely that you will be able to evenly attach the reference line yourself.

Attention! Don't forget about the width of the seam between the tiles!

Have you counted? For example, you need 10 whole tiles, and half. Here, at the height of this half from the floor, you measure the distance. Next - beat off the horizontal along it, and, with the help of home, fasten exactly the beam.

Now we breed glue in a bucket or other special container. To do this, pour the mixture, add water and mix with a drill.

Important! When mixing the adhesive mixture in order to lay the tiles yourself, be sure to follow the proportion indicated on the package - each manufacturer selects optimal formulations, and here there is no universal proportion.

Everything, preparation for work is completed.

Laying tiles

So, how to act to yourself? The main thing is not to rush.

Laying tiles on the floor

If you are going to, then it is better to apply the adhesive with a notched trowel directly onto the tile. Inflicted on one, crushed to the floor.

Important! Avoid excessive efforts, gently put it down, slightly pressed down, checked the level of horizontality, and - take on the next tile.

After laying 3-4 tiles, be sure to pick up the level again and check the overall horizontalness of the resulting surface.

If there are protrusions - take a rubber mallet, and lightly tapping on the tile, lay the tile under the general level.

But if in some places you “drowned” the tile due to excessive effort, then you need to carefully dismantle it, remove the glue, apply a new layer and lay it again. If the tile is “heated” due to the uneven floor, then in order to lay the tile yourself with high quality, you need to apply a little more glue than on other tiles.

So, gradually moving, you need to carefully lay the tiles.

If you have to lay tiles on the walls, then it is advised to apply the adhesive mixture directly to the surface with a spatula, and only then apply the tiles.

Moreover, after you wooden beam lay 2 rows of tiles, you need to take a break to give the layers time to set, since the higher you "lift" the rows, the more pressure will be exerted on the lower rows.

Therefore, remember - they laid 2 rows, took an hour for two breaks, and only then - proceed to laying further.

Another point: if you want to lay a tile with high quality and neatly yourself, then be sure to use the “crosses” that you will invest in the mixed space. They will regulate the thickness of the seams, and the styling will be flawless.

In the process of laying, it will be necessary to trim the tiles.

You can cut tiles with high quality with a tile cutter, and with a grinder as well, the main thing is not to rush.

So, the tile is laid.

Before you is the final stage - grouting.

Grouting and cleaning

Proceed to the direct application of the fugue into the seams should be a day after laying. Previously, it is impossible, since the solution has not yet set, and you, by applying force, can move the tile.

Before laying, you need to find out in more detail, as well as about the main points of the grout itself, and only then - start work.

And finally, cleaning the surface. If you make sure that no mortar remains on the tile during work, and when grouting, immediately remove the excess fugue (especially if the surface of the tile is corrugated), then you should not have any problems. Otherwise, you will have to take the advice of experts.

So, now you know how to lay the tiles yourself, and we can only wish you good luck!

Probably, no renovation is complete without tiles. Ceramics has many advantages over others finishing materials in many situations. And when it comes to decorating the bathroom, then tiles are absolutely the leader. However, laying tiles is not a cheap pleasure, and it is also a terribly interesting activity. These factors provoke many home craftsmen to work with their own hands. Practice, if possible, should be preceded by theory, so we tried to make the article give an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to lay tiles on a wall.

We do not consider floor cladding here, but we assure you that if you master laying tiles on the wall, the floor will seem like an easy base. Vertical surfaces involve fighting gravity, having to deal with complex geometries, and taking into account many more parameters. However, it is not the gods who burn the tiles, and it is also not the inhabitants of Olympus who are engaged in tiling ...

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Surface preparation

Ceramics can be laid on two types of mixtures: tile adhesives and cement-sand mortars. There are other binders, but they are used in special occasions and have nothing to do with everyday construction tasks. Substrate preparation depends on the type of mortar. Having given preference to glue (and this is the most popular solution today), the walls are plastered or sheathed with drywall. In any case, the base plane should tend to the ideal.

Gypsum plaster Knauf Goltband Beacon profiles are leveled in a flat plane and fixed on the solution. The plaster is applied to the wall and smoothed out according to the beacons.

Usage cement-sand mortar suggests large mixture layers and less preliminary alignment with your own hands. We will describe how to glue tiles on a flat surface. This method is more modern, but the main thing is that it can be mastered quickly. The "mortar" technique requires much more refined skills, and even many tilers do not fully master it.
Make sure the surface is as flat as possible. Pipes should be hidden, save yourself from having to be distracted in the process of laying ceramic tiles on the wall. The plane allows you to get by with a minimum of glue and speeds up the lining several times. Prime the leveled base, especially carefully if the walls are plastered.

We drill channels for pipes.
We bring pipes for the bath and hide them in the wall.

If the base has previously been prepared and painted, you need to remove a layer of paint or make frequent notches. Nothing should flake off and crumble. This is important, because negligence will lead to extremely short-lived styling.

Tool

Wall cladding requires special tool. Make sure you already have:

• trowel or spatula;
• comb (notched trowel);
• bubble level;
• hydraulic level or laser;
• wire cutters;
• tile cutter;
• rule 1.5 m;
• grinder with a diamond wheel;
• tile crosses / wedges;
• foam sponge;
• rubber spatula.

Roulettes and other hammers were not included in the list, it is understood that they already exist in every household. When mixing glue, it is difficult to do without a drill with a nozzle, so its presence is also desirable. You can knead with your own hands, but correctly - with the help of a tool.

markup

The basic rule of facing: visually important places must be given whole tile. The lot of the cut tile is located where it will be less visible or hidden. Calculate the number of slabs before leveling the base. You may need to level a little more if the geometry calls for too small a piece of tile in the corner. It is better to lose a little in the area than to admire for many years a two-centimeter "stub". If the corners are visually equal, it may be worth reducing the trimming to the edges, and the same. Although there are certain design rules, in fact, the taste of the owner puts the point in the question.

The vertical layout is based on the whole tile at the top rule. But, again, there are exceptions, so use common sense. Do not forget to take into account the height of the floor and ceiling, as well as slab joints. Over a large area, with seeming insignificance, the latter play big role, accumulating up to several centimeters in total.

The markup also depends on the type of ceramic layout. The most common:

• "seam to seam";
• scatter;
• diagonally;

It is unlikely that you will start with the last method, it is the most difficult. The second imitates brickwork, gluing tiles in this way is easiest. Most popular type- first, it requires careful observance of the vertical and horizontal, any deviation will be noticeable.
Good video about the correct layout:

Gluing, as a rule, should be started from the second or third row. This is due to the fact that it is correct to cover floor tiles wall:

• it looks better;
• water flowing from the walls does not flow into the contour seams;
• cutting wall ceramics is much easier;

If you have already laid the floor (although this sequence is not according to the rules), start laying the tiles on the wall from the very bottom. But this option is unlikely, do not forget about the whole tile under the ceiling. Unless the height of the walls allows you to do without trimming.
Having decided on the lighthouse row, “punch” the marks of the upper edge of the first row using a water level. The presence of a laser will facilitate the work, but the tool is specific, and there is no point in buying it specifically. Plastic tubing is much cheaper, and if you don't have to lay tiles on large area Forget the laser. Surely you know about the principle of communicating vessels, so we will not dwell on the work of the hydraulic level.

Mark the horizon immediately around the perimeter, make sure that there will be no trouble with possible cutting around the pipes. Sometimes it is necessary to shift the marks to avoid a difficult cut. Further on the marks you can:

• pull the beacon cord;
• draw a solid line

The first option is still preferable, as it gives you full control over the horizon and the plane. We make a reservation that wall cladding for mortar involves only this item. Plumb lines will help control the vertical or, much more often, when tiling with glue, the same line, but already along the Y axis.

The use of glue requires a support bar that fixes the beacon row. Usually use aluminum profile or wooden rail.

To prevent the tiles from sliding down, we fasten the profile 27x28 mm according to the marks. In this bathtub, a uniform layout from the center is chosen so that 2 identical undercuts are obtained along the edges.

Laying tiles

You need to glue on a tile adhesive that matches the task. Do-it-yourself kneading does not allow you to quickly bring the mixture to the desired consistency, so use a mixer. Apply the composition to the base or tile with a spatula. After application, remove excess glue with a comb, as a result, an even layer of grooves will remain on the surface. Choose a notched trowel based on the size of the tile and the plane of the base. The larger the plate and the worse the plane, the larger the teeth on the tool should be.

Align the first tile along the horizontal and vertical marks. If using a cord, start on the second row from the corner; after you remove the thread, you need to put the rest of the tile. Fix with wedges placed between the ceramic and the support bar. Lay out the row, excluding the undercut. Leave space between the plates, achieving uniformity with the help of crosses (a popular size is 2 mm).

After a day, the support bar is dismantled and the bottom row of tiles is laid.

Control the plane along the cord or, if you do not use the thread, the rule. The edges of the tiles must match the beacon string. Check each row with a bubble level for verticality. Thus, do-it-yourself wall cladding occurs. Pruning can be done immediately, but it is more convenient at the end of the stage. Remember to follow the given pattern and remember that ceramics may have an inexpressive pattern. On the reverse side of the tile there are arrows that show the direction of laying, they should always be in the same direction.
Video on how to properly lay tiles on the walls in the bathroom:

Tile cutting

When tiling with your own hands, you can do without expensive cutting tool. If there is a tile cutter - good, no - use a glass cutter or a scriber with a victorious solder. Mark the cutting line, fix the plate on flat surface and draw along the line several times with the tool. Next, you need to put the tile with cutting marks on a couple of nails and gently press - you have a finished trim. If you use a tile cutter, run the roller once, repetitions lead to marriage.

In this way, they cut straight, but tiling the walls also involves curly cut. Cut holes for the pipes with a grinder with a diamond wheel. If there are few holes, but there is no angle grinder, you can use a cheap diamond-coated canvas. But this is a labor-intensive and long process, and is justified only economically.

Grouting

After laying the tiles on the wall and floor, the seams are cleaned of glue and rubbed special composition. The grout is applied to a rubber spatula and the gaps between the plates are filled with the mixture. Depending on the material and craftsmanship, 1-4 square meters are processed in one go. The remains are removed with a foam sponge. With it, the filler is brought to a smooth state, distributing the grout evenly over the seams.

Do-it-yourself wall cladding that you mastered on basic level requires an understanding of the nuances. Some of them:

• Before laying the tile, check its quality, geometry and calibration. Sort by size to make it easier to get even seams.
• Carefully prepare the surface, do not spare the primer and observe right angles.
• Use on outside corners. Although it is not so beautiful, it is safe.
• Glue the tiles on a dry surface.

Expenses

Costs for facing a bathroom with an area of ​​3.5 m²:

• 2 guide profiles 27x28 mm - 90 rubles.
• (25 kg x 3 pcs) - 717 rubles.
• Soil strengthening Plitonit 1 l. - 98 rub.
• 300 pieces of plastic crosses 2 mm - 60 rubles.
• Grout Kiilto 3 kg - 320 rubles.
• Self-tapping screws, dowels - 20 rubles.

Total laying cost us 1305 rubles + the cost of tiles and preparatory work(plasters). If you are doing wall cladding with your own hands, you will need to invest in the missing tools. For wall cladding in a bathroom of such an area, the tiler will take at least 13-15 thousand rubles, along with grout. Buy a tool that will remain with you forever and do everything yourself, or pay for the work of the master and calmly drink tea during styling - everyone will decide for himself.

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