What to do if tomatoes are fattening in a greenhouse. Why do tomatoes grow fat in a greenhouse and on the open field and what to do Tomatoes have grown strongly what to do

You are familiar with the fattening of tomatoes, if so, what should you do so that the tomatoes do not fatten and grow lush greenery? After all, this is damage to our crops.

There are several ways to stop the process of fattening tomatoes, and we will consider them now.

How to fix fatty tomatoes

Do not cook rich in greenhouses nutrient soil, by the way, both for tomato bushes and cucumbers. In autumn, manure is enough, and during the growing season, feed a little with mullein. With large doses of fertilizers, fattening tomatoes in a greenhouse will cause a lot of problems, and a minimum of fruit.

Know that such a restriction with watering adapts the roots in the soil. This method is valid for the first half of the growing season until the moment when fruits begin to set on the first brush.

Of course, it is not worth bringing the earth to complete drying, it is dangerous for green spaces. Dryness will stop the growth of plants, and the flowers will crumble.

Tomatoes need to be increased only when the fruits begin to pour en masse.

How to find out if there is enough moisture in the soil. Make it easy

From a depth of 15 centimeters, take a handful of earth and squeeze tightly in the palm of your hand. The lump does not break up - no watering is needed, crumbled - moisture is required.

Forget the myth that tomatoes need to be watered often and in small portions. Such irrigation forms a surface root system. The plant turns out to be weak and get sick from negative external factors.

In no case do not overfeed tomatoes at all stages of the growing season with nitrogen. Fattening plants tend to build up green mass, and fruit set is postponed until later.

From the experience of a summer resident "Stop the fattening of vegetable crops"

“Oh, my tomatoes began to run amok in growth, I immediately arrange a little stress for them. So that they think about the continuation of their kind and go about their immediate business - they began to lay flower brushes and pour fruits.

How do I stop fat?

First. I'm cutting back on watering.
Second. I remove 1 to 3 large lower leaves.
All this brings the tomato bushes back to normal.

Another type of fattening is symptoms: the growth of flower brushes, when at the time of fruit set, suddenly, a new shoot appears. This phenomenon is observed with the length of the flower brush. I pinch it and leave no more than 5 or 7 fruits.

All the measures listed above help to return tomatoes to the state of producers.

Remember, after planting, no nitrogen fertilizing. An exception is if its obvious deficiency is noticeable.

I give the first top dressing at the root as soon as the 5-6 brush blooms - potash. If there is a lack of trace elements and magnesium, then I spray the leaves with these solutions.

May these tips on how to stop fattening of tomatoes help your crops “lose weight” and give big yields.”

Irina Zaitseva, summer resident

Very useful video about the obesity of tomatoes in the greenhouse

Provogorod thanks its reader for useful advice. And how do you deal with the fattening of vegetable crops?

Very often, especially in greenhouses, flowers appear on tomatoes, but there is still no ovary. Over time, the flowers crumble, and there is no question of any harvest. What to do to tie tomatoes? Let's try to figure it out.

No set on tomatoes: wrong temperature

In tomatoes, pollen matures at night, and pollination occurs during the day. However, for pollen to mature, it needs optimum temperature- not lower than 15 degrees (otherwise it will not ripen) and not higher than 25 degrees. In the daytime, the temperature should not exceed 35 degrees, otherwise the pollen will become sterile, it will not be able to germinate, and the plant will drop flowers.

What to do if tomatoes in the greenhouse do not tie because of the temperature? In the heat, air the greenhouse more often, leave it open at night. You can also whitewash the roof - this will protect the planting from overheating. If the tomatoes are not tied due to low temperatures, water the tomatoes with warm water, install dark containers with water in the greenhouse - they “collect” daytime heat well. In critical cases, heaters will have to be installed.

Ovary stimulants will help tomatoes overcome the heat - traditional boric acid (1 gram per 1 liter of warm water), or Ovary, Bud, Gibbersib, Tomatoton, etc.

No ovary on tomatoes: unsuitable humidity

Again - in greenhouses it often happens not to breathe. high humidity leads to the fact that the pollen clumps and does not have the opportunity to get enough sleep from the anthers. And because of low humidity pollen cannot germinate on a pestle. In the first case, airing will help, in the second - spraying tomatoes with water in the morning (can be combined with the same Bud, boric acid or phosphate fertilizers needed by tomatoes during fruit set).

Be sure to help the plant to pollinate: in the morning or afternoon, walk around the greenhouse and gently shake the tomato by the stem or trellis, if the tomato is small, you can individually pollinate each plant with a brush (one tomato flower can pollinate not only itself, but also other flowers). In calm, humid weather, this procedure can be done with open ground tomatoes.

Tomatoes not tied? Help them pollinate

Tomatoes do not tie: they fatten

Overfeeding tomatoes nitrogen fertilizers creates such comfortable conditions for the plant that it forgets to think about offspring: powerful stems, malachite foliage, and few or no ovaries (sometimes even flowers). Need to create a plant stressful situation: remove unnecessary shoots and stepchildren (but not all at once, 1-2 at a time), shed the earth once on light soils so that excess nitrogen goes into the lower layers of the earth, then stop watering for 5-7 days, remove nitrogen supplements and give phosphorus-potassium (ash, superphosphate etc.)

Tomatoes do not tie: it's all about the variety / hybrid

If you purchased a tomato hybrid (F1) last year, received excellent harvest, collected seeds, grew seedlings from them, and tomatoes are blooming but not tied- Nothing strange. When re-grown, many hybrids do not produce offspring.

It may also be the inability of a particular variety to bear fruit well in your climatic conditions. For example, hybrids have already been bred that can tolerate heat of more than 35 degrees, and for some varieties even 30 degrees is a critical threshold. The only thing that can be advised here is to do your own selection and grow proven varieties and hybrids.

A successfully pollinated tomato flower can be recognized by its curled petals.

For what other reasons there is no ovary on tomatoes:

- some diseases (in particular, rot)

- excessive processing of tomatoes from diseases with chemicals that affect the quality of pollen

- lack of phosphorus and potassium and "distortions" in nutrition in general

- lack of moisture

- dense plantings, lack of light

- sudden changes in temperature

- strong liming of the soil

We have looked at the main reasons why there is no ovary on tomatoes and why the ovary on tomatoes falls. Be sure to pay attention to the weather, the presence of wind, sun and help your tomatoes, spray the tomato for the ovary, apply in a timely manner correct top dressing for a tomato - and you will definitely have a good harvest!

Tomato fattening is a frequent phenomenon, especially for greenhouse tomatoes. AT comfortable conditions the plant ceases to care about reproduction and begins to grow lush foliage, a stem two fingers thick and a bunch of unnecessary branches. At the same time, the setting of tomatoes either does not occur at all, or it is delayed for a long period. What to do if tomatoes are fattened, and, in fact, why tomatoes are fattening - we'll talk.

Powerful stems, bright green leaves twisted inward, prolonged fruit ripening are the main signs of tomato fattening.

Tomatoes fatten: the main reasons

Tomatoes are fattened for two main reasons:

- overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers

- wrong, too frequent watering.

For tomatoes there is iron rule: better "under" than "over". , and others organic top dressing, as well as nitrogen mineral fertilizers - this is wonderful, but everything should be in moderation. Organics are rich, first of all, in nitrogen. Nitrogen is the strongest stimulant for building green, vegetative mass. The introduction of nitrogen fertilizers instead of phosphorus fertilizers and before the flowering of tomatoes has a negative effect.

With an excess of nitrogen, all the forces of the plant go to the greens, and the tomatoes fatten, that is:

-the stem becomes unnaturally powerful, thick

- the leaves turn dark green, twist

- grows a large number of new shoots and stepsons

- the tomato forms a weak floral raceme, on which there are few flowers, or none at all

- ripening of tomatoes is delayed

Frequent watering is another disservice you can do to tomatoes. Because of frequent watering the plant relaxes, builds up a superficial root system and cannot fully on your own, provide food. Therefore, tomatoes should be watered rarely (once every 5-7 days, less often or more often, depending on the weather), but plentifully. The young in the first 15-20 days of life do not need to be watered at all: the water that you pour into the hole is quite enough for the life support of the plant. A slight water "starvation" will only make the plant stronger and allow it to grow a powerful root system.

Tomatoes fatten: what to do?

overfed tomatoes it can no longer be returned to its original state, but you need to try to direct the forces of the plant in the right direction, that is, into the formation of fruits.

Feeding tomato seedlings? Not scary. When transplanting, limit the amount of nitrogen fertilizers, and increase the amount of phosphorus and potassium

What can be done if the tomatoes are fat:

1)Eliminate nitrogen supplements, replacing them with phosphorus and potassium. Before flowering, add phosphorus-containing additives, as well as a little potash (potassium will slightly restrain the flow of nitrogen, besides, this element for a tomato is a signal for the formation of ovaries. Potassium top dressing for a tomato is best done after flowering 5-6 brushes) and magnesium. As a phosphate fertilizer, you can take superphosphate - dilute 3 tablespoons of fertilizer in a bucket of water and feed each bush with 1 liter of composition. With the same solution, only two times weaker, foliar top dressing of the tomato should be carried out, that is, processed from a sprayer. You can feed fattened tomatoes and ash.

Nitrogen is a mobile element, so on light, sandy soils it can be wash out of the ground. For this ONCE, but large quantity water (a bucket and a half under 1 bush) “wash” the soil from nitrogen, and it will be washed into the deeper layers of the soil. After that, the plant is not watered for about a week, gradually accustoming it to an anhydrous diet. But on heavy clay soils, for obvious reasons, it is better not to conduct such experiments.

Slightly weaken the effect of ordinary nitrogen soil loosening(excess ammonium will go into the atmosphere).

The rapid growth of obese tomatoes will help to calm removing bottom sheets, as well as shoots located above the inflorescences that obscure Sun rays tomato brushes. It is recommended to remove one at a time, maximum 2-3 large sheet below the first flower brush - this stress will be enough for the tomato to switch to fruiting.

If the tomatoes are fattening, then they are already behind the normal ripening cycle, and are unlikely to feed all the ovaries. Therefore, you can thin out and flower brush, removing the extra ovaries, and also decapitate the bush by pinching the top.

fattening tomatoes need help in pollination- just gently shake the plant, holding it by the trunk.

Thanks to such simple tricks, overfed tomatoes will restore the balance of minerals, previously “skewed” towards increasing green mass.

Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board of the Sobcorrespondent of the online publication "AtmAgro. Agroindustrial Bulletin"

Tomatoes are very popular in our country. A rare gardener does not cultivate this tasty and healthy vegetable crop in his dacha or garden. personal plot. Tomatoes show the highest yield in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Do some special conditions it does not make sense to grow this crop, but it is simply necessary to follow the basics of growing technology. Otherwise, the plants do not give out the proper volume of the crop, and sometimes they simply “fatten”.

General information

Tomatoes cultivated in a greenhouse or greenhouse are sometimes very capricious. The slightest change in terms of temperature, humidity or lighting can provoke various deviations in the growth and development of plants. Special meaning has the mode and quality of dressings, as well as qualitative composition soil.

Greenhouse soil is prepared in autumn. AT standard procedure includes digging, disinfection and fertilization. However, some gardeners neglect these rules and postpone the main preparation of the landing area in the greenhouse for planting tomatoes until spring. It is possible to determine the presence of deviations in the vegetation of this vegetable crop not only by external signs, but also by a significant decrease in yield.

External signs

From the side, the bushes of "fattening" tomatoes in the greenhouse look quite attractive. Tomatoes in this case are very powerful and well developed. Leaves on a plant cultivated in a greenhouse or open field, have a very bright dark green color and are characterized by juiciness. The apical leaflets tend to curl.

Such a massive bush will not give high-quality and bountiful harvest, which is due to the redistribution of the flow of nutrients from the emerging ovaries and fruits to the green mass of the plant. Characteristic features there will be an underdeveloped flower cluster and a small number of flowers on a cultivated plant. At the same time, there is a massive growth of the vegetative mass.

Of course, you can not make hasty conclusions and discard such tomatoes. It is necessary to more closely examine all the plants in the greenhouse and identify the root cause of the problem.

Another type of "fatting" of a tomato in a greenhouse is the formation of new shoots. This type of physiological disease is also formed on hybrids that have a long flower brush, on which fruit is set. There will be practically no harvest from such greenhouse tomatoes.

Causes

Greenhouse tomatoes are very responsive to quality and regular care, as well as timely top dressing. However, if you make the fertilization excessive, then the plants "fatten". Tomatoes cease to accumulate nutrition in the ovaries, as well as fruits, and redistribute the entire flow of substances necessary for abundant fruiting to the green parts of the plant.

In addition to excessive fertilization, "fatting" and growth of plants in the greenhouse can be triggered by high air humidity, as well as too frequent or abundant watering. Equally important is the correct and sufficient lighting of greenhouse plants. Tomatoes react very actively to low light.

Why tomatoes "fatten" (video)

It should be remembered that tomatoes with a short brush, as well as determinant tomato varieties, are practically not susceptible to manifestations of such a disease.

The main reasons that greenhouse tomatoes "fatten" can be determined by some circumstances.

• The most common and most common reason for "fatting" a tomato in greenhouses is due to overfeeding plants with nitrogen fertilizers, which provokes a build-up vegetable crop green mass to the detriment of high-quality fruit formation.
• Too frequent watering in the first fifteen days after planting seedlings on permanent place into greenhouse soil. Such waterlogging is very detrimental to the formation of a strong and healthy root system, and also contributes to the superficial growth of the roots. In addition, against this background, a decrease in the resistance of tomatoes to adverse conditions can be noted. external influences.
• Excessive application of manure or bird droppings during the growing season quite often causes tomato "fatting".
• The increased growth of tomato bushes is facilitated by frequent irrigation throughout the growing season, as well as excessive air humidity in the greenhouse structure.
• Another important factor is too dense planting of greenhouse plants in combination with a lack of lighting.

Troubleshooting

There are several ways to rid greenhouse tomatoes of this phenomenon in a fairly short time. At the first sign that the tomatoes in the protected ground are “fat”, the following measures should be taken.

• It is required to stop irrigating tomatoes in a greenhouse or open field for at least a week.
• Foliar top dressing with the use of phosphate fertilizers. Highly effective means is the use of superphosphate.
• Adding superphosphate extract at the rate of three tablespoons per bucket warm water under the root of cultivated plants. Root top dressing made after the abundant watering. The standard dose of the solution is about one liter per plant.
• Highly important nuance is a complete exclusion from top dressing of nitrogenous fertilizers.
• An increase in daytime temperatures inside the greenhouse up to twenty-five degrees.
• night temperature control, optimal parameters which should not exceed twenty-two degrees.

• Gently, but extremely carefully, remove from the plants that part of the leaves that interferes with the full coverage of tomatoes.
• Remove all leaves that are located above the flower brushes and cover the emerging ovaries from light.
• High-quality phosphate fertilizers contain about thirty percent potassium and fifty percent phosphorus. These components are classified as instant, which makes settling the solution prepared for spraying impractical.

Foliar top dressing very effective as an ambulance for "fat" plants, however, to consolidate the result, spraying with root dressings should be supplemented. Such a measure will allow the plant to delay the growth of green mass and redistribute nutrients to the ovaries and fruits of tomatoes.

Prevention measures

The most efficient are preventive measures, the implementation of which does not require significant efforts from the gardener. Most often, it is enough to adjust the microclimatic conditions in the greenhouse, as well as follow the main stages of the technology for growing greenhouse tomatoes.

How to water tomatoes in a greenhouse (video)

good prophylactic may be the introduction of the usual wood ash, which is rich in potassium and does not allow plants to "get fat". In addition, periodic inspections of plants should not be neglected, and when the first signs of a change are found appearance tomatoes, it is necessary to complete the above activities as soon as possible.