Aquarium soil for plants. Nutrient substrate for the aquarium. We enrich ourselves. Is it worth considering the behavior of fish

DIY aquarium soil is a habitat for a large number of beneficial bacteria that make an invaluable contribution to the aquarium ecosystem. It is thanks to them that harmful and toxic elements, as well as the waste products of its inhabitants, do not accumulate and successfully decompose in the reservoir. In this article you will find several useful advice, thanks to which you can create the appropriate soil for your aquarium with your own hands.

How to lay aquarium soil

High-quality soil always has high nutritional characteristics, favorably affects the development and growth of aquatic flora, the main function of which is to saturate the liquid with oxygen produced as a result of natural process- photosynthesis, thanks to which the fish receive a sufficient amount of oxygen.

Do-it-yourself soil for an aquarium must be laid in three stages.
Laterite or clay;
Clay mixed with peat;
The final layer of sand, gravel or pebbles of various fractions.

Sometimes there is a noticeable difference between the layers on the front wall of the aquarium. If you want to avoid this, step back a couple of centimeters from the edge and make a beautiful border around the perimeter. decorative ground. Place the nutrient substrate only in the part of the aquarium where aquatic plants will grow.

To prepare the first layer, take the clay and soak it in water until it becomes soft. After that, mix it with gravel, which is necessary so that the soil passes oxygen and does not cake. The resulting mixture is laid out in an even layer three to five centimeters thick at the bottom of the aquarium.
If such a composition of the first layer does not suit you or which components were not found, then you can replace it with laterite (red porous soil).

In the places where you plan to place the plants, you can lay balls of clay. Ferrous sulfate at this stage should not be laid. For do-it-yourself laying 2 layers, you need to combine peat with gravel. As in the previous step, lay clay balls at the location of the plants - they will serve as fertilizer. The height of the second layer should be about three centimeters. If, when pouring liquid, the water acquires dark color, do not be alarmed: this is the release of humic acids by peat.

The third layer is placed exclusively in decorative purposes, so you can use good pebbles, sand or gravel for it. Besides, upper layer stones prevents darkening of water due to peat or clay. The thickness of the third layer depends on the inhabitants of the reservoir: if it has a species of fish that like to dig the ground, then the layer, respectively, should be much larger.
In the first days after you have started the aquarium, it will begin to stand out nutrients and various bacteria multiply, as a result of which the water may become temporarily cloudy. Fight this filter, which should be periodically cleaned of blockages of particles. After a few days, the concentration of algae will noticeably increase and they will have to be fought. To do this, a gradual water change is done: once a day, change 20% of the water of the total amount in the aquarium. Some types of plants also help to fight algae - it is better to start planting a water garden with them, and finish with slowly growing species.

Aquarium soil - soil care

If small fish and shrimps live in your aquarium, then sand can be safely laid in the topsoil. If there are larger species of fish and burrowing individuals, the soil fractions for the aquarium should be larger - pebbles or gravel. When choosing, rely on the dimensions of the inhabitants of the aquarium: the stones must be such that the fish cannot swallow them, otherwise it will have a bad effect on its health.
If you equip the aquarium completely with your own hands, then buying soil in the store is not at all necessary: all components can be found in nature. The main thing is that they are environmentally friendly and safe for plants and fish. Before laying such material, it must be washed and processed very carefully to avoid the risk of poisoning or death of the inhabitants of the aquarium.

There are a few tricks in laying soil for an aquarium with your own hands:
Do not use fine sand, as it makes the water in the aquarium very cloudy, plus everything, it is dangerous for shellfish;
Much more good option- coarse river sand, ideally it is better to add fertilizers to it, which will favorably affect the development of plants;
Bright and small gravel pebbles can be used as decoration;
When changing water, always wash the top layer of the substrate. After it, a siphon of soil is made in the aquarium;
If you have sand in the top layer, then when pouring new water, put an ordinary flat plate on it: it will not give a sharp stream of water, which can erode the aquarium soil and ruin the layers;
You can put a little fertilizer or fertilizer in the roots of plants, but do not use chemicals;
If there are burrowing fish in the aquarium, the roots of the plants must be fixed in the soil as tightly as possible.

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For aquarium plants it is extremely important to take nutrients, both from water and from the ground. It happens that the soil itself can be neutral, and not contain required amount useful substances. Neutral soil can be considered river or sea processed pebbles, basalt or quartz chips, coarse-grained washed sand. What to do if there is no necessary top dressing for the root system?

Neutral nutrient soil

Many aquarium ornamental plants take nutrients directly from the aquatic environment. To a greater extent, floating vegetation has this quality, and the soil in such an aquarium can be neutral, that is, not containing any nutrients. Indeed, why do you need top dressing if there is no aquatic flora with a root system?

Examples of a neutral soil substrate are coarse washed sand, river or processed sea pebbles, pure granite, quartz or basalt chips.

By the way, as for basalt, it contains quite a lot of iron, but it is practically not released into the water and, therefore, is inaccessible to the root system.

The influence of soil on biological balance

Another thing is the "herbalist" (as they call the container with large quantity plants). Here, nutrient-rich soil is indispensable; it is needed to strengthen the root system. But not only.

The condition of the soil has a rather significant impact on the biological balance in the aquarium, because it is no secret that living creatures and aquarium plants are in close relationship, in one closed ecological system.

As long as the aquarium trade has existed, discussions have continued about the same proper feeding soil. We have to face the allegations that the enrichment of the aquarium bottom substrate is not much different from the creation of nutrient soil on land (in a greenhouse or greenhouse, for example). So, after this, “craftsmen” appear who receive nutrient soil by mechanically mixing the earth with coal, peat, clay and even manure.

You can imagine what a blow this mixture inflicts on the well-being of ornamental fish!

The listed materials can be used in small quantities as additives only in a specific planting site.

In addition, peat, for example, is used to soften and acidify water if the fish need an environment with such parameters.
Marble chips, on the contrary, harden the aquarium water and add alkalinity.

Nutrient soils for the aquarium

Nutrient soils- This is a more complex category of aquarium soils and can be divided into two types: ground soils and nutrient substrates.

Nutrient substrates

The name of this type of aquarium soil speaks for itself. Such soil is laid in a small layer under the main soil. Depending on the manufacturer, this different kind mixtures with a large supply of nutrients. Due to the fact that such soil has many nutrients, it is covered with a layer of neutral soil. If a nutrient substrate do not cover from above, its nutrients can be washed out by the stream and dissolved in the aquarium water. This uncontrolled increase in the concentration of nutrients in the water can cause algae to grow.

As already mentioned, different brands produce nutrient substrates with compositions that are very different from each other. Nutrient substrates on the basis of laterite contain a lot of iron, on the basis of clay - potassium, on the basis of peat - nitrogen and phosphorus. Nutrient substrates may contain other rocks rich in nutrients, such as lava. This is worth paying attention to when planning your aquarium. For example, if you need to ensure that your future plants are fed with iron, then only a substrate that contains enough iron is suitable for you. Below is the composition of AQUAYER Nutrient Pad. Compare this composition with that of granular ground soils, which will be discussed below. This will help you understand their fundamental difference.

How to create nutrient soil yourself

There are enough ways to make nutrient soil with your own hands. The soil for aquarium plants can be a two-layer soil saturated with the necessary impurities for underwater flora. What you need to make a nutrient substrate:

Granulated Activated carbon or birch natural;
Purified clay;
Active additive sorbent (from the store);
boiled peat;
Fallen oak or beech leaves, finely chopped, or coconut fibre;
Fine pebbles or coarse sand.

Activated carbon is a natural sorbent that neutralizes decay products organic matter, cleans the soil from harmful impurities. However, when lying for a long time, coal is able to release accumulated harmful components back. Therefore, every 8-10 months it is necessary to change the soil where this recharge is used.

As for the clay for the aquarium, it is of great benefit to plants due to the enriched composition. Red clay contains a lot of iron oxide, which is not suitable for all fish and plants. Clays from rivers and lakes contain a lot of humus, which affects the rapid growth of algae. The best option to enrich the soil - the use of gray clay, which does not harm the flora and fauna.

Sorbent, or absorbent substance - "Vermiculite" granular is suitable for an aquarium. This is a layered material that retains nutrients in the soil and keeps them from dissolving. The sorbent is sold in pet stores.

Peat - contains useful organic substances that nourish the roots of vegetation. Some aquarists confuse river silt with peat, but it is harmful to the soil, quickly oxidizing it. Natural peat from the forest is also not suitable, however, purchased granulated or tableted peat will be useful for feeding.

As for organic components, fallen leaves or tree bark can be used as them. But remember that not all organics can be useful:

Oak and linden leaves release tannins into the water, which not all plants and fish can tolerate;
Maple leaves decay very slowly;
Aspen leaves have high speed decomposition;
Well suited for organics under the ground coconut fiber. It slowly decomposes, and constantly throws organic matter into the soil.

Ground laying

Mixture listed components laid on the bottom of the aquarium, the layer thickness can be from 2 to 3 centimeters. The top layer is small pebbles or coarse sand. Many experienced aquarists prefer small pebbles with the size of each individual particle of 2-3 mm.

The result is a two-layer soil, the lower part of which is nutritious, and the upper layer protects organic matter from rapid washing out.

In order for the resulting soil to also act as a biofilter, many experts add a bacterial activator to it (to stimulate the development of a colony of denitrifying bacteria).

Commercial nutrient soils and substrates: a brief overview

These branded aquarium products used to come in the form of earth to which various substances. Soils balanced in this way were simply poured onto the bottom of the "can".

Currently, the most popular are granular bottom substrates, varieties of which are produced by many companies: German Dennerle, JBL, Tetra, Polish Aquael and many others.

Aqua Soil. An example of soil is Aqua Soil - Africana, Amazonia, Malaya. This mixture helps to reduce the pH level and hardness of the aquarium water. Designed exclusively for freshwater aquariums.

Experts do not advise using this soil when keeping fish digging the ground.

Soil mixture Dennerle DeponitMix Professional consists of selected natural peat, natural clay High Quality, soil with nutrient minerals and iron, quartz sand and granules to provide biological filtration and remove nitrite from water. It contributes to the strengthening of the root system of vegetation and the healthy state of the foliage. The absence of phosphates and nitrates in the mixture excludes the formation of green algae.

JBL AquaBasis Plus- has become widespread, it includes:

The mixture is spread evenly along the bottom of the aquarium (layer thickness 2-3 cm), and treated fine gravel is carefully poured on top. In this case, the commercial mixture, which has a service life of 3 years, plays the role of a substrate.

Plant Complete Substrate from Tetra is a ready-to-use primer. It contains: mixture different varieties natural sand, minerals, humic acids, which have ion-exchange, sorption and biologically active qualities, as well as peat.

The soil is poured on the bottom of the new aquarium with a layer 2 cm thick. In places where planting is planned aquatic plants, the layer can be made a little thicker. It is allowed to use both the finished product and mixing with fine-grained rolled gravel. This concentrate prevents the appearance of algae, strengthens the roots, promotes the normal development of stems and leaves.

The range of nutrient soil mixtures is very wide, and for right choice you should carefully read their composition, as well as carefully read the instructions for use.

Nutrient soils are designed to provide good development aquarium plants, but this is not their only function. Modern commercial ready mixes significantly improve water quality. And this is the most important factor in the good health of ornamental fish.

All about nutrient soils, nutrient substrates in an aquarium with live plants - a review!

In some cases, it is not at all necessary that the aquarium soil be nutritious. Sometimes in aquascaping, it plays the role of a decorating material to create the appropriate landscape. But if there are living ground plants in the tank, then you can’t do without top dressing of the soil.

Many aquarium ornamental plants take their nutrients directly from the aquatic environment. To a greater extent, floating vegetation has this quality, and the soil in such an aquarium can be neutral, that is, not containing any nutrients. Indeed, why is it needed if there is no aquatic flora with a root system?

Examples of a neutral soil substrate are coarse washed sand, river or processed sea pebbles, pure granite, quartz or basalt chips.

By the way, as for basalt, it contains quite a lot of iron, but it is practically not released into the water and, therefore, is inaccessible to the root system.

The influence of soil on biological balance

Another thing is "" (as they call a container with a large number of plants). Here, nutrient-rich soil is indispensable; it is needed to strengthen the root system. But not only.

As long as the aquarium hobby has existed, discussions about the correct feeding of the soil have continued for as long. We have to face the allegations that the enrichment of the aquarium bottom substrate is not much different from the creation of nutrient soil on land (in a greenhouse or greenhouse, for example). So, after this, “craftsmen” appear who receive nutrient soil by mechanically mixing the earth with coal, peat, clay and even manure.

You can imagine what a blow this mixture inflicts on the well-being of ornamental fish!

The listed materials can be used in small quantities as additives only in a specific planting site.

In addition, peat, for example, is used to soften and acidify water if the fish need an environment with such parameters.
Marble chips, on the contrary, harden the aquarium water and add alkalinity.

Soil types

But the examples listed are just small additions to the soil. And what is whole nutrient aquarium soil?

It can be of two types:

earth saturated with essential micro and macro elements;
nutritional pad.

Both types of soil are available commercially, but a large number of aquarists make their own according to the specific needs of fish and plants.

Do-it-yourself nutritious soil

There are a lot of recipes for its preparation. Some homemade mixtures are suitable for a certain type of home aqua system, others claim to be universal. Consider one option for self-preparation of a two-layer soil saturated with the necessary substances for the development of aquarium flora.

It can be prepared using the following ingredients:

coal (activated in granules or natural birch);
clay;
special sorbent as an active additive;
peat;
finely chopped fallen leaves or coconut fiber;
coarse sand or small pebbles.

Coal, which is an absorbent, is necessary to neutralize the decay products of organic matter, clean the soil from harmful elements.

When using it, the following must be taken into account: coal has the property of "throw" back into environment accumulated harmful substances.

That is why experts strongly recommend that after 8-10 months, completely change the soil where this component is used.

Clay. In different localities, it can have quite different composition. The most common red clay contains a lot of iron. Not suitable for all plants and fish too a large number of given element. Forest and lake clays contain a lot of humus. In an aquarium, a similar component can affect unauthorized growth.

This unpleasant moment can be avoided if gray clay is used.

In its composition, it is able to satisfy the needs of almost all representatives of the flora common in the aquarium hobby.

sorbent. As a sorbent that binds all components and affects the growth of grass, the composition "Vermiculite" in granules is often used. This layered mineral holds nutrients in the soil, preventing them from dissolving too quickly in water.

Peat is a supplier of useful organic matter that plants absorb through their roots. Some aquarists use river silt for this, but it is believed that in large doses it contributes to the acidification of the soil.

Natural forest peat can also cause this phenomenon, so the use of high-quality granulated (or tableted) pressed peat is recommended.

organic. Some recipes indicate the use of finely chopped fallen leaves as an organic supplement. But in this case, you need to consider some points:

oak and linden foliage is isolated in aquatic environment a lot of tannins;
maple leaves decompose too slowly;
in aspen leaves, on the contrary, the decomposition rate is very high.

Such a substance slowly and constantly releases organic substances, and also has an average rate of decomposition.

Ground laying

A mixture of these components is placed on the bottom of the aquarium, the layer thickness can be from 2 to 3 centimeters. The top layer is small pebbles or coarse sand. Many experienced aquarists prefer small pebbles with the size of each individual particle of 2-3 mm.

The result is a two-layer soil, the lower part of which is nutritious, and the upper layer protects organic matter from rapid washing out.

In order for the resulting soil to also act as a biofilter, many experts add a bacterial activator to it (to stimulate the development of a colony of denitrifying bacteria).

Commercial nutrient soils and substrates: a brief overview

These branded aquarium products used to be in the form of earth to which various substances were added. Soils balanced in this way were simply poured onto the bottom of the "can".

Currently, the most popular are granular bottom substrates, varieties of which are produced by many companies: German Dennerle, JBL, Tetra, Polish Aquael and many others.

Experts do not advise using this soil when keeping fish digging the ground.

Soil mixture Dennerle DeponitMix Professional consists of selected natural peat, high quality natural clay, soil with nutritious minerals and iron, quartz sand and granules to provide biological filtration and remove nitrite from the water. It contributes to the strengthening of the root system of vegetation and the healthy state of the foliage. The absence of phosphates and nitrates in the mixture excludes the formation of green algae.

JBL AquaBasis Plus- has become widespread, it includes:

natural peat, acting as humus;
selected clay in the form of granules;
mineral supplements that also contain a large amount of iron;
porous granules for the formation of colonies of denitrifying bacteria.

Plant Complete Substrate from Tetra is a ready-to-use primer. It contains: a mixture of various varieties of natural sand, minerals, humic acids, which have ion-exchange, sorption and biologically active qualities, as well as peat.

The soil is poured on the bottom of the new aquarium with a layer 2 cm thick. In places where it is planned to plant aquatic plants, the layer can be made a little thicker. It is allowed to use both the finished product and mixing with fine-grained rolled gravel. This concentrate prevents the appearance of algae, strengthens the roots, promotes the normal development of stems and leaves.

The range of nutrient soil mixtures is very wide, and for the right choice, you should carefully read their composition, as well as carefully read the instructions for use.

Nutrient soils are designed to ensure the good development of aquarium plants, but this is not their only function. Modern commercial ready mixes significantly improve water quality as well. And this is the most important factor in the good health of ornamental fish.

Video advice on how to make a nutrient substrate for aquarium plants:

There is no need to talk about what soil is: it is sand or pebbles. But it is very necessary to speak about the fact that the soil needs to be enriched. Therefore, this is what we will talk about today. So!

Many beginners make this mistake: they pour soil, distribute it along the bottom of the aquarium and ... completely forget about it! That is, since the soil is under water, and the plants stick out underwater in it, then everything is “tip-top” and there is nothing to strain (it’s true: they don’t need to be watered). But no, my friends, you should strain.

The fact is that the aquarium soil is extremely poor in minerals, since, basically, it quartz sand or a pebble. The soil is especially poor in salts - there are very few of them in it. Yes, and what is in the soil - plants absorb half, and half simply dissolves in aquarium water. So it turns out that your plants are simply starving, and, therefore, get sick and die. How to fix the situation? We need to enrich the soil necessary set minerals.

Both solid and liquid fertilizers are used to enrich the soil. Special enriched bottom substrate can, of course, be purchased at a pet store. How to apply it? Part of the fresh, enriched substrate is added to the aquarium. This substrate is poured on top of the main soil layer. In no case should you mix the soil: firstly, raise a terrible dregs, and secondly, the plants and soil will absorb everything they need. However, there is also home method soil enrichment. By the way, this method enhances the experience of any novice aquarist, as it teaches accuracy in the matter of dosage.

For self-enrichment of the soil, I recommend using the following ingredients: clay (dry), peat, river sand. A mixture is prepared from these ingredients: 10% clay is mixed with 40% peat and 50% river sand. For example, if you need 1 kilogram of enriched substrate, then take 100 grams of clay and pour it into a container (dry). Pour chopped peat into the same container, in the amount of 400 grams. Mix and add 500 grams of river sand (dry and sifted) and mix again. So you got a kilogram of enriched substrate. Actually, the main difficulty is immersing the new substrate to the bottom of the aquarium: there is a risk of clouding. But everything comes with experience, so don't worry, just think and everything will work out.

(P.S: so be it - I’ll tell you. Take the “funnel”. Plug the outlet with your finger. Pour the substrate into the “funnel” and immerse it under water (keep the outlet closed). Then, remove your finger from the outlet and - woo-a-la - the substrate pours out of the "funnel" in a neat trickle. And then - adjust it yourself). That's all science.

All the best to you, dear friends!

What is the best soil for an aquarium? How much is needed? How to siphon and clean the soil in the aquarium? The answers to all these questions, which are important for the full existence of the "inhabitants" of the aquarium, will be discussed in this article. Let's build the right aquarium with our own hands, taking into account all the nuances of the nutrient soil and its laying.

What is the best soil for an aquarium - the first question of a person who starts breeding fish

Very often, at the initial stage of arranging a “fish house”, the question arises: what kind of soil is best for an aquarium? Although later it loses its relevance and ceases to be actively discussed. However, as time passes, the mistakes made at the beginning make themselves felt, and as a result, large-scale corrections begin.

The main purpose of our article will be the nuances of the selection, preparation and placement of soil filler. In addition, important circumstances in this matter are the decoration and cleaning of the bottom of the aquarium.

Initially, it is worth noting that the black primer for the aquarium is the most important part of its configuration. Together with elements such as the background, lighting and additional decorative components, it gives a noticeable uniqueness to the placement. At the same time, being a substrate, the soil provides conditions for the existence of a whole complex of microorganisms and plants.

At the same time, the nutrient substrate for the aquarium works as a primitive filtering mechanism. Microscopic suspensions that pollute the water settle in it, which significantly expands its functions.

Before buying the aforementioned filler, it is worth deciding on the goals, as well as the general vision of the "underwater kingdom". In addition, you need to navigate the key aspects of the choice.

Aspects of choosing aquarium soil

presence of living plants.
Inferred species of fish and crustaceans.
Basic color scheme.
Volumes of aquarium soil.

Main characteristics of aquarium soil

Both a small aquarium and its large analogue need to be “decorated” different colors. Usually the owners themselves select decorations. But, despite this, many experts tend to choose dark soil, which allows a good view of the contents of the aquarium.

If we talk about the expected thickness of the layer, then it depends on the parameters of the aquarium, as well as on the number of living and non-living objects. Therefore, the approach to deciding which soil is best for an aquarium is strictly individual.

It should be borne in mind that for fish, the soil will have a significant difference. As mentioned above, representatives of the flora use it as a substrate for rooting and subsequent nutrition. Given this, it should be not only a decorative component, but also life-supporting.

If you believe general rules arrangement of aquariums, then the soil should be fine or medium-grained, taking into account the power of the root systems. For underdeveloped plants, sand can be used, and for highly developed plants, a coarse-grained fraction.

In addition, the nutritional value of the soil should also be considered, since for plants and fish the right aquarium is a place that allows them to receive Peat, clay, and special preparations purchased at pet stores are sometimes placed in the soil.

Note! If you choose which soil is best for an aquarium, then when buying it, you need to study the material from which it is made, and color scheme. by the most the best option for the aquarium there will be a natural unpainted coating.

It is also advisable to find out before purchasing it chemical composition and the origin of the soil. The presence of limestone will provoke the release of carbonate, which will significantly increase the presence of gas bubbles.

Groups of aquarium soils

Natural soils - sand, crushed stone, gravel, pebbles. They can be used where small burrowers and plants with weak
Soils obtained through processing natural materials mechanical or by chemical means. They meet almost all requirements and are available in various color options. Despite this, their bright coloring interferes with the natural perception of the aquarium.
Artificial soils - glass or plastic balls made using a special technology. They are absolutely harmless, but they can only be used where they will be single plants. In addition, they are completely unsuitable for keeping burrowing fish.

Since porosity is one of the most important characteristics substrate, then fine sand with a particle size of less than 1 mm is unlikely to be useful. Everything is due to the fact that in such a filler metabolic processes are disturbed due to the rapid caking of the material. This, in turn, leads to rotting of the plant roots.

In addition, the biological balance that must "visit" the aquarium at home is very unstable. In this situation, even shellfish and fish loosening the soil do not help.

Sand having a particle size of 2 to 4 mm will be an excellent and easily accessible substrate. Sufficient porosity affects the metabolic processes that for a long time remain in their original form.

This option is quite suitable for most plants with both powerful and weak root system. In addition, it has increased permeability to newly formed roots.

The success of small pebbles can also be noted, the particles of which vary from 4 to 8 mm. The level of its caking is much less than that of sand, but the formation of silt is very slow. This type of soil is more suitable for large plants with a strong root system.

Large pebbles and gravel will decorate a small aquarium rather than a large one. In any case, the amount of such soil should be significant in order to somehow differ against the general background. In addition, pebbles and gravel are not used as an independent substrate.

It is worth noting that all the above-mentioned natural soils are connected by a common origin - these are small particles of granite. Their mass distribution argues for accessibility for aquarium lovers. Moreover, the color parameters of such soils range from light gray to red shades.

Among artificial substrates, expanded clay is considered the most common. It has excellent porosity and low weight, which makes it indispensable for fish lovers and flower growers. During plant transplantation, this type of soil practically does not injure the root systems.

Together with the above advantages, the inner part of expanded clay is an anaerobic flora - oxygen-free microorganisms. They purify the water from numerous organic compounds that appear in the aquarium over time.

To determine how much soil is needed in the aquarium, its individual parameters should be taken into account. Among them, the dimensions of the "house for fish" are noted, as well as the occupancy of living and non-living components.

Soil preparation

If there is an aquarium of 200 liters, then before laying the ground, its bottom must be prepared. This is especially true of the aquarium soil, which is collected "on the street". Mandatory rinsing and boiling are the main procedures that prevent infection.

There is no need to boil a store purchase, but it must be washed and poured over with boiling water. The use of soap or other cleaning products is excluded here, since subsequently it will be very difficult to wash chemical impurities out of the soil. At the very least, it will take a lot of effort and time that can be used for other useful actions.

These procedures are fundamental. If you have properly processed and prepared the soil for the aquarium, the price for it, even if it was significant, will subsequently no longer be for you. special significance. It is worth noting that it is not necessary to wait for the complete drying of the future “stone bottom”, since the wet state is natural for it.

Placement of soil in the aquarium

The bottom layer should consist of gravel that is enriched with laterite iron or clay. Its thickness should be between 3 and 5 cm and include fertilizer balls. In addition, there may be a mixture of trace elements that do not contain phosphates and nitrites, which are so detrimental to plants and fish.

It is advisable to focus on iron in the soil mixture, which is present in the soil. Otherwise, it will simply not be available for nutrition to representatives of flora and fauna. In addition, it is commonly used for top dressing. garden bushes, will not work, because it will significantly reduce the acidity of the water.

If used heating cables, then they also fit in this layer. They should not be located directly on the bottom, because uneven heating leads to cracking of the glass, and the aquarium at home can quickly deteriorate. In addition, sand and clay in this case will be inappropriate - they will also heat up unevenly.

The middle layer should contain soil with impurities of peat, which makes up 15-25% of the total volume of the bottom soil. Its thickness can be no more than 2-3 cm, since an excess of peat-enriched soil can provoke a rotting process. If there is a large amount of organic matter in the ground, then it can be supplemented with sand.

In addition to everything, the middle layer can be filled with trace elements and clay balls. However, for this it is necessary to careful preparation peat and earth. Strictly speaking, such a rule holds for each layer.

The top layer should be fine gravel mixed with sand. About 5 cm of such soil prevents clouding of the water due to contact of peat with the ground. This is where aquarium stones are used, which can be purchased at the same pet store.

If there are snails or fish digging in the ground in the aquarium, then you need to grow plants in pots or increase the thickness of the top layer. This will prevent significant damage to their root systems.

It is worth noting that usually the soil in the aquarium is placed unevenly. Although it can be distributed in such a way that it will have the appearance of a slide that rises to back wall. This option for covering the bottom can visually give the aquarium volume and a more spectacular appearance.

Most beginner aquarists lay out various patterns from the ground. Since they gradually move under the action of water, these compositions are short-lived. Of course, it's not that scary, but general form aquarium can still deteriorate.

The final procedures that will make the 200 liter aquarium impeccable will be decor installation, water filling and planting. This must be taken care of in advance so as not to "slow down" the overall process of arrangement.

Design and decoration

For modern aquaristics, one laying of soil will not be enough. After all, only a professionally designed aquarium can harmoniously fit into the interior and delight its observers for an infinitely long time. Therefore, the more responsible the approach to decorating it, the more it will be able to bring joy to people around.

As mentioned above, for a full-fledged "entry" into the interior of the room, you need to choose the right not only the soil, but also the background with decorative elements.

The role of decorations is no less important than the flora and fauna that fill the aquarium. If the answer to the question of which soil is best for an aquarium has already been prescribed earlier, then you need to talk about the design in more detail. This is explained by the fact that the decor will be able to disguise the equipment installed inside the aquarium.

Types of bottom and glass decoration

Driftwood from different types tree (alder, mango, mopani).
Multicolored stones.
Sea corals and shells.
Pebbles, black quartz, coral sand.
Plastic and live plants.
as a film on glass.
Various objects (castles, arches, volcanoes, statues).

Care of aquarium soil

After the main points regarding the quantity and quality of the bottom soil have been resolved, we should move on to the question of how to siphon the soil in the aquarium. Simply put, how to remove accumulated mud sediment from its bottom.

Certainly there is special devices, called aquarium siphons, the analogues of which are ordinary hoses. They are elongated flasks and flexible tubes with a length of 1.6 to 2 m and a diameter of up to 2 cm. These components are connected through special holes, representing a hose with increased dimensions.

After installing the above-mentioned cleaning structure, it plunges into the aquarium and reads its activities. Due to the periodic suction of air, the water from the aquarium begins to pour out, and the most polluted areas of the soil become clean. Some aquarists, while searching for an answer to the question of how to clean the soil in an aquarium, can use ordinary medical syringes.

While the siphon is moving from place to place, its outer end can be clamped, thereby preventing excessive loss of water. Modern options cleaning devices are already equipped with taps for adjusting the pressure, so it is easier to “clean” the aquarium with them.

During cleaning, lower the end of the hose from which the dirt comes out below the water level of the aquarium itself. This must be done so that the dirt is not poured back.

In addition to the aforementioned siphon option, there are other designs for cleaning. Most often these are electric pumps equipped with special fabric bags that filter water. However, here it must be borne in mind that stones for the aquarium can get there, so it is recommended to use them as carefully as possible.

The preference of a siphon over a conventional hose is also confirmed by the presence of “soil seething” processes during cleaning. Although, on the other hand, the dirt is much lighter than the soil filler, and it should come out unhindered.

Conclusion

High-quality soil allows you to give the aquarium the look of a natural reservoir, creating a unique color background for its inhabitants. However, in addition to performing decorative functions, it maintains biological balance, determining the composition and properties of water. In addition, millions of microorganisms “work” in it, providing natural purification of the surrounding air.

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