Saw chain sharpening angles. What is the correct sharpening angle for chainsaw chains? Components of a chain

Sharpening a chainsaw chain is easy. True, subject to the use of special tools. Without them, it is impossible to cope with the task: the saw chain has a very complex geometry.

Chainsaw chain sharpening in progress ripping as needed. The more intensively the saw is used, the faster its chain becomes dull. In some cases, during the day you need to perform several sharpening. The fastest tire loses its sharpness when in contact with the soil. It is enough to hook the ground with it several times, as the chips become small, and the tool refuses to go deep into the wood.

Timely sharpening of the chainsaw chain for longitudinal sawing not only speeds up work, but also extends the life of the chain. Determining the moment when it needs to be sharpened is easy. Dull teeth are indicated by the need to increase the feed force during sawing. A dull chain can also be recognized by small chips - ideally, large thick chips should fly out from under the tire.

The nuances of sharpening

Having decided to buy a chainsaw, you will not regret it - they sell quality devices capable of lasting for many years. The main thing - do not forget to sharpen the saw chain in time.

To obtain ideal cutting properties, certain angles are attached to the blades of the teeth. The back of the tooth, falling back, forms the angle of the blade (rear). It is necessary for cutting the chain into wood. The blade, tapering back, is needed to cut the chips in the assembly. In other words, each corner plays its role.

The angle of sharpening the chain can be changed, starting from the features of its application. For example, for longitudinal sawing, it should be 10 degrees.

General sharpening rules

The internal contours of the chainsaw chain are shaped like a circle. A small round file is used to sharpen them. It must be held with a confident hand and at a certain angle. The upper edge of the file in relation to the edge of the tooth should protrude by about 20% of the tool diameter. When choosing the diameter of the file, you need to start from the chain pitch.

One file is not enough for you. When sharpening the chain, use a special kit sold with a chainsaw or purchased separately. Sets of this kind consist of a hook for cleaning the chain from chips, a round file and a flat file used when filing the depth gauge.

The cutting tooth of the saw chain consists of the base of the tooth (1), the blade of the tooth (2) and the depth gauge (3). The blade of the tooth has a vertically located end blade (4) and an upper blade (5) falling at an angle backwards, located horizontally.

To give the chain optimal cutting properties, the cutting links are sharpened in a certain way.

The following sharpening angles are distinguished

\r\n

Rear angle of sharpening of the upper blade

\r\n

The rear corner of the upper blade is formed by the back of the tooth falling at an angle backwards. This angle is needed to cut the top blade into the wood.

End blade back angle

\r\n

The scapula tapering backwards forms a . This angle is required for lateral chip cutting.

Front angle

\r\n

The edge of the end blade forms with the sliding surface of the cutting tooth rake angle sharpening. The rake angles of the individual types of saw chains vary: for example, Rapid Duro carbide chains have a rake of 65°, while Picco Micro X rip saw chains have a rake of 80°.

Top blade rake

\r\n

Top blade rake characterizes the tilt of the upper blade back. This angle is measured relative to the sliding plane of the cutting tooth and ranges from 50° to 60° depending on the type of saw chain. The top blade is the main blade and the rake angle of the top blade is the most important angle. It is difficult to measure, but very important for efficient sawing.

Sharpening angle

\r\n

The sharpening angle or, in other words, the angle of entry is obtained by measuring from the upper cutting edge at right angles to the guide bar.

The angle of sharpening of individual types of saw chains partly differs, depending on the conditions of use of the chain.

As a rule of thumb: the greater the angle of sharpening, the higher the cutting performance when sawing unfrozen softwood. Reducing the sharpening angle when sawing frozen and / or hard wood contributes to a smoother chainsaw and reduces vibration.

The rake angle, sharpening angle and the angle of the upper blade change during sharpening. These angles have a decisive influence on the cutting performance of the saw chain – be sure to observe the prescribed values.

Our company repairs and sharpens saw chains using branded equipment in compliance with all sharpening angles prescribed by manufacturers.

The use of chainsaws allows you to change the size and shape of wood and other materials. The cutting element of a chainsaw is a chain that moves at high speed during operation. Blades are located on the chain, the geometry of which causes fast cutting. Over time, the chain becomes dull, and the teeth need to be sharpened. Chain sharpening is a procedure that you can do yourself, as it is no more difficult than sharpening other cutting tools. The only conditions for sharpening can be called the use of a special design. This is due to the fact that the created tooth has an unusual geometry: it consists of two cutting edges, the angle is created using the side and top plane. Special difficulty sharpening lies in the fact that the upper surface has an angle relative to the line of movement of the chain, which must be maintained with great accuracy.

When should work be done?

With intensive use of the chainsaw, sharpening is carried out quite often, often several times in one day. Particular attention should be paid to the fact that the contact of the chain with the ground greatly speeds up the process. Therefore, chainsaws must be used in such a way as to exclude the possibility of contact between the chain and the ground. After several contacts, the chips will be very small, and the chain will not go deep into the material. When considering a similar issue, it can be noted: the more often you have to sharpen the chain of a chainsaw, the smaller the layer of metal is removed. Also, if you sharpen often, then the life of the cutting element of the chainsaw will increase significantly. The main condition can be correct execution work if you do it yourself. It is possible to perform the procedure correctly only if there is special machine. A sign that the cutting element of a manual chainsaw has become dull can be called a significant feed force. Properly sharpened chains determine a significant decrease in the feed force, that is, chainsaws enter easily with a little pressure. Another sign of the need for chain sharpening is the production of very small chips.

Sharpening the chainsaw when the signs in question appear is mandatory. Chain sharpening is carried out in order to reduce a lot of stress in the body, reduce the cyclic load indicator, and fuel consumption. Also, if you do not sharpen the chain teeth on time, there is a possibility of increased wear of all components, as a result of which the service life of a manual chainsaw is reduced.

Geometry Features

In order to properly sharpen with your own hands, even if a machine is used, you should know the geometry of the tooth. Its constituent elements include:

Shoulder blade.
Main link.
Depth limiter.

In this case, the scapula of the tooth consists of the following elements:

Edge blade.
Top blade.

You need to sharpen correctly with your own hands, taking into account the fact that the end and top blade must be correctly positioned relative to each other to ensure the best cutting performance. The back of the tooth forms a certain angle of the upper blade. A similar angle is formed to cut the blades into the material. You should also sharpen with your own hands, taking into account the fact that the shoulder blade has a narrowing back - this design feature forms the angle of the end blade. It is designed to provide lateral chip cutting.

Chainsaw chain tooth

sliding surface and end part blade forms a rake angle. In this case, the angle has a fixed value, it varies from 60 to 85 degrees. If you sharpen the teeth with your own hands, it is worth considering that it is the upper blade that is the main one, and the angle formed by it is the most important angle.

Summing up, when considering the issue of geometry features, we note that the sharpening angle can vary depending on the conditions of use. The main rule that should be observed if you sharpen a tooth with your own hands is the following: the higher the angle, the greater the performance of the chainsaw, but a decrease in the rate ensures greater smoothness of the blades, reduced vibration and increased service life. It is worth sharpening, taking into account the fact that the indicator should be in the range from 25 to 35 degrees. An exception is the version of the blade, which is designed for longitudinal cutting - many manufacturers of the cutting element of the chainsaw can withstand 10 degrees.

File

The file can be used to carry out the work in question. A file removes the necessary layer of metal from the surface. For this case, a special set was created:

The file is round, having an unusual holder.
Flat file needed to adjust the depth limit.
Hook.
Special pattern.

The round file holder is created along with marking lines that are used to position the tool correctly. The plate itself, during operation, comes into contact with the depth gauge and the surface of the blades, and the file goes and removes the metal layer. The use of a special holder with a file allows you to ensure the correct fit of the tools to the surface to be treated. It is worth using only the file that is designed to perform such work.

File sharpening angles

Work rules include:

You should do the same number of movements.
It is necessary to control the force of pressure on the surface during its processing.
The template, which is used together with the file, allows you to maintain important sharpening parameters.

At different lengths, uneven travel and the formation of cracks in the material are observed. If the length indicator is not the same at the time of the start of processing, then all the cutting teeth are filed according to the indicator of the smallest of them.

The use of special machines

Can't always be used hand tool with template. For example, if the cutting edge comes into contact with the ground during operation, there is a possibility of its deformation. In this situation, a special machine is used. The machine is of two types:

Mechanical.
Electric.

The machine tool has a design that looks like bow saw but with a round file. You can use the machine to align the length indicator of all edges, to restore the correct geometry. The machine in question has complex system setting processing parameters. Sharpening is performed in about 2-3 movements, after which the machine is installed in a new place.

The electric machine is easy to use. A special system of settings allows you to correctly position the surface to be treated, as well as bring the disc with high accuracy. Some models have an automatic vise clamping system when the disc is lowered. Price electric option performance is somewhat higher, but at the same time productivity is significantly increased, it is possible to achieve the most exact result.

Stihl saw chain sharpening guide PDF format

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

stankiexpert.ru

Chainsaw chain sharpening - do-it-yourself chain sharpening machine

The chainsaw is cutting tool, so sooner or later it will become dull. The more actively it is exploited, the sooner this moment comes. And when this happened, the problem arises, how to sharpen a chainsaw chain? If possible, you can take it to the service, where you will very quickly restore its performance. If you know how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands, then it is better to do it with grinder, in extreme cases, a file or grinder. The important thing is that you need to know how to sharpen a chainsaw chain correctly: the choice of sharpening angles, what files and tools to use and when you can sharpen it yourself, and when it is better to take it to repair.

How to determine that chainsaw chain sharpening is needed?

Chainsaw chain sharpening is done only when the teeth are dull. This is evidenced by the following factors:

The performance of the saw has fallen, the process itself takes longer than usual;
For the chain to be pulled into the cut, more force is required than usual;
The sawdust becomes smaller and sharper, their color changes to a darker one, in contrast to the light sawdust from a sharpened saw.
During operation, strong vibration occurs and the saw is difficult to hold in hands;
The consumption of gasoline has increased.

If you do not sharpen the chainsaw chain, but work with a blunt blade, this will cause the tool to quickly fail. The sprocket and drive will have an increased load, fuel consumption will increase, and the chain will quickly fail or break.

In the event that during operation you see that your chainsaw does not work as it should, sharpening the chainsaw is urgently needed. There are no specific dates and periods for this, as it depends on the frequency of use, loads and a number of other factors. For example, professional lumberjacks who work with such equipment on a daily basis use machines to sharpen chainsaw chains 2-4 times per shift, sometimes even more, to keep the chain operable. The whole secret is that if you sharpen the chainsaw chain when it has just begun to become dull, in this case the sharpening procedure is very simple and fast, while the life of the chain itself is significantly extended.

Tooth arrangement

Before considering how to sharpen a chainsaw chain, you need to understand its very design and principle of operation.

The chain itself does not directly cut the tree - it serves as the basis for special cutting links, moving them at high speed through the wood, while the link, with the help of its blades, already cuts the tree. The link itself includes the following elements:

The base that is attached to the chain.
Blade tooth with two cutting edges
Depth stop that controls the depth of the blade. The efficiency of the chainsaw directly depends on the distance between the limiter and the upper blade.
end blade
Top blade.

Since the blades are set at certain angles, before you sharpen your chainsaw chain, you need to know how to set these angles correctly. Otherwise, the effect of sharpening will be minimal, and often you will make it even worse.

What angles to set on a chainsaw chain sharpener?

The chainsaw chain sharpening angle is not a constant for some specific model or manufacturer. It depends on what kind of wood you have to work with. You can use average values, but what chainsaw chain sharpening angle you set will directly affect the cutting efficiency. Therefore, you need the correct sharpening of the chainsaw chain for a particular wood.

Hardwood (or whatever long time was under the influence negative temperature) has a higher resistivity so the angle needs to be reduced. Then vibration will decrease during operation, and the blade itself will be softer. Minimum is 25°.

If you work with soft wood, then you can increase the sharpening angles of chainsaw chains, but up to a maximum of 35 °. This will increase the performance of the chainsaw without negative consequences.

The angle of sharpening the chainsaw chain for longitudinal sawing is set within 10 °. This will minimize the vibration of the blade when sawing and ensure the most even cut.

Chainsaw sharpening methods

There is no dispute among professionals about the better to sharpen a chainsaw chain. Here the answer is unequivocal - it is better to use a special automatic machine for maximum precision and sharpening efficiency.

But on the question of how to sharpen a chainsaw chain at home, opinions differ.

There are three main ways to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands:

With the help of files;
grinder;
On a do-it-yourself machine.

Sharpening the chainsaw chain on the machine

If you have a professional chainsaw chain sharpening machine, then there are no difficulties. Today, the market offers many different models in which chainsaw chains are sharpened clearly, quickly and with the right angles. You just need to connect it to the mains, set the chainsaw chain sharpening angle on the machine and that's it. Such a power machine is relatively inexpensive - from 2 to 4000 rubles.

A budget option - manual machine for sharpening chainsaw chains. Its main difference from a power machine is low cost, but more effort will have to be made, since sharpening chains for chainsaws with your own hands is much longer.

In the event that you do not want to do everything manually, but do not know where you can sharpen the chainsaw chain, contact the manufacturer's proprietary service - approximate cost such a service does not exceed 200-300 rubles.

How to make a machine for sharpening chainsaw chains with your own hands?

What to do if it is not possible to purchase a special machine, and sharpening the chain on a chainsaw is required regularly? You can try and make a machine for sharpening chainsaw chains with your own hands. Whether the game is worth the candle is up to the owner to decide. As mentioned above, the cost of factory equipment is within 2000 rubles. If you decide to make a chainsaw chain sharpener yourself, then you need the following:

Make a desktop out of thick sheet metal. It must be firmly attached to the body to eliminate vibration.
A bed with a screw system that allows you to set the angle of sharpening chains for chainsaws. It should have a graduated scale and the ability to move horizontally - this will allow you to adjust the angle of the engine.
High-speed electric motor (you can use any machine tool, drill or grinder).
Attachment for pulling and fixing the chain.

A home-made machine for sharpening chainsaw chains with your own hands is not inferior to factory samples, but making it more difficult than it seems. Therefore, it is much easier to buy a portable chainsaw chain sharpener that you can use at any time (if you have an outlet).

Using a file to sharpen a chainsaw chain

In the absence of a machine tool or in the forest, do-it-yourself chainsaw chain sharpening is done using a file. To be precise, you need a chainsaw chain sharpening kit. It consists of two files (flat and round) and a special template. When choosing a sharpening tool, we recommend a chain saw chain diamond file that can grind hard metal. Movements when working with a tool must be smooth, clear and in the direction "away from you".

A round file is intended for cutting a cutting tooth. In the vertical plane, the round file for sharpening is located strictly perpendicular to the tire, and in the horizontal plane, approximately at an angle of approximately 30 degrees. At what angle to sharpen the chainsaw chain, you choose for yourself, based on your needs and the density of the wood, but within 25 ... 35 degrees, as mentioned above. Do not forget that the teeth have multidirectional sharpening and alternate through one.
The flat file is intended for sharpening the depth gauge.
Chainsaw chain sharpening template - very useful, one might even say required device. By design, this is a limiter that prevents the chainsaw chain sharpening tool from working incorrectly. With it, you can control the depth of the round file, as well as grind the limiter correctly. To do this, the template has two slots: SOFT / S (soft wood) and HARD / H ( hardwood). A template is superimposed on the chain and restrictively grinded to the level of the template. Sharpening a stopper without a template can result in it being cut too low or not enough.
If there is no template, you can make a special sharpener for the chainsaw chain, which is a holder with a file fixed in it at a certain height. This option is worse than a template, but still better than sharpening without any limiters.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a grinder?

Sharpening the chainsaw chain with a grinder is used in extreme cases, because. this method is quite laborious and it is difficult to control the depth of sharpening and a constant angle, since the angle grinder cannot be fixed in the template.

It is necessary to firmly fix the tire with the tensioned chain in a vise so that it is stationary during any actions. The wheel for sharpening chainsaw chains should never be new - the new wheel has too straight edges and this will lead to cuts in the metal. Be sure to pay attention to this and use only a chainsaw chain sharpening wheel that has already been used, the edges of which are more rounded.

comments powered by HyperComments

sadovij-pomoshnik.ru

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands?

Hi all! In this article I will tell you how to sharpen a chainsaw chain at home.

For this case, you should use a special tool for sharpening the chainsaw chain - a round file of a suitable diameter or an electric machine.

Sharpening with a file is more correctly called editing. With a file, the chain is sharpened using templates with or without rigid fixation. In the case of a rigid fixation, if the chain does not accidentally pass, for example, over nails, then you can do without sharpening at all. electric machine. When using files without rigid fixation, after 8-10 edits, the chain should be sharpened on an electric machine, as the cutting angles are gradually knocked down even if the edit was carried out by a person with the most firm hand.

Sharpening the chain on an electric machine immediately, as soon as it is slightly dull, is not recommended, since with such sharpening a sufficiently large part of the cutting tooth is “eaten up” - in this case the chain will last much less than it could. Sharpening on the machine also needs to be carried out if the chain has been walked, for example, on the same nails. In this case, straightening the tooth with a file is unlikely to succeed.

120 varieties of chainsaws at very favorable prices. Click to view

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a file

In order to sharpen the chain on a chainsaw with a file, you will need, in fact, the round file itself. desired diameter, a template for correctly determining the sharpening angle, as well as a template and a flat file for grinding off the sawing depth gauge (guide tooth).

Sharpening set: round file with template, flat file, sawing depth gauge sawing template

1. Without removing the chain from the chainsaw, we apply a round file to the cutting tooth, observing the desired sharpening angle, and draw it 2-3 times along the tooth in the “away from you” direction. If you press the file against the tooth as it moves towards you, it will roll and stop sharpening. Therefore, in order to properly sharpen, we press it only when moving “away from you”.

Sharpening with a file without rigid fixation

We look at the correctness of the angle when sharpening using a non-fixed template by the risk applied to it - it should be parallel to the chainsaw tire. The sharpening angle should be 30 degrees for cross cutting, and 10 degrees for longitudinal sawing. It is more convenient to first sharpen all the teeth of the chain, looking in one direction, and then walk along the teeth, looking in the opposite direction.

When using a rigidly fixed guide template, it is fixed on the chainsaw tire and does not allow the file to go to the side - the quality of editing in this case, as mentioned at the beginning, does not suffer from hand trembling. Next, the desired angle is set and the rest of the actions occur in the same way as with a non-fixed template.

Sharpening the chain with a file with a rigid fixation

It is also worth noting that there are such devices for dressing with a file, when using which the chain will need to be removed from the chainsaw.

Editing the chain with a file and removing it from the chainsaw

2.Now we take a template and a flat file for grinding the guide tooth. To do this, we put the specified template over the cutting tooth so that the guide tooth protrudes into the slot on the template. With a flat file, grind off the part of the guide tooth sticking out of the template. This is done to meet the required height difference between cutting and guiding teeth of 0.65 mm. Usually, such a procedure should be carried out after already 4-6 edits, since the cutting tooth does not grind much with a file in one or three edits in order to greatly decrease in height.

Grinding the sawing depth gauge (guide tooth)

File diameters for chains with a certain pitch:

3/8″P - 4mm

0.325″ - 4.8mm

3/8″ - 5.2 mm

0.404″ - 5.5 mm

Sharpening the chainsaw chain on the machine

When the chainsaw chain is sharpened with an electric machine, it is removed from the chainsaw itself. Further, everything will depend on the type of machine. There are varieties that do not require human participation in the sharpening process at all, but such devices are too expensive. Usually the process looks like this.

Chain sharpening on an electric machine

The chain is installed in the existing slot on the machine frame with the guide tooth towards the operator. Next, the frame is rotated at the angle at which it is necessary to sharpen - for this, risks must be applied to it. Special emphasis, which is applied to back side cutting tooth, the tooth itself is adjusted to the working disk so that when it is lowered, as little as possible is “eaten away” from the tooth, but at the same time, so that its sharpening is done completely, without leaving pits and depressions.

Chain sharpening on an electric machine in progress

It is advisable to find the most “eaten” tooth on the chain, set the emphasis under it, and sharpen all the other teeth according to this setting. However, few people bother with this. Usually they align with the first tooth that comes across and sharpen all the rest on it. And if a tooth comes across that such a setting does not provide complete sharpening, then they align it, and then sharpen the remaining links along new setting. But, we repeat, it is correct to set up the machine exactly according to the smallest tooth on the chainsaw chain.

You should also set the maximum depth to which the working disc will be lowered. This is done using the regulator, which is usually located on the back of the machine.

We sharpen the teeth, bringing each one under the working disk, while not forgetting to press each link being sharpened with a special side clamp so that it does not “walk”.

So they first pass along the teeth of the chain directed in one direction, and then for the other side they again set up the machine along the smallest tooth and sharpen the teeth on this side.

In order not to start sharpening the teeth in the second circle, you can mark the first tooth to be sharpened with a marker.

After such sharpening, you must again go through the sawing depth limiters (guide teeth) with a flat file with an appropriate template to give the necessary difference in height between the guide and cutting teeth on the link.

Thus, in order to properly sharpen the chain on a chainsaw, follow the instructions above and you will succeed.

instrument-technika.ru

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain. File sharpening rules. Sharpening tools.

Cutting with a dull chain will result in increased fuel consumption and excessive chainsaw wear. You can easily avoid this by sharpening your chain regularly and correctly. Let's figure out how to sharpen a chainsaw chain correctly.

Why sharpen your chainsaw chain?

If you sharpen the chain correctly and in a timely manner, this will reduce:

chain and chainsaw wear;
fuel consumption and exhaust emissions;
vibration during work;
applied force and physical load;
the likelihood of an accident.

This increases productivity and cutting speed.

Circuit structure and function

To figure out how to properly sharpen a chain, you need to understand the basic principles of its structure and operation. It is impossible to sharpen the chain by eye, you will need to know the main characteristics of the chain and its components.

One of the main elements of the chain is a cutting tooth that cuts into the wood and removes chips. Tooth depth gauge determines the thickness wood chips and limits the depth of penetration into the tree.

Cutting depth

The distance between cutting angle and the depth gauge must be the same on all cutting links. Depending on the type of chain, the recommended settings for the limiter are 0.025 "(0.65 mm) or 0.030" (0.75 mm).

Tooth angle parameters

Sharpening angle various types circuits may vary and depend on the purpose of the application. The table below shows the main parameters of the angles of the cutting link, but in any case, you should follow the manufacturer's recommendations for a particular chain. Optimum cutting results are achieved by sharpening all corners of the tooth.

Determining the file diameter

The chain pitch determines the choice of the correct file diameter and has a direct relationship. Dimensions in the table are in inches and millimeters.

The pitch is determined by dividing the distance between three rivets by two.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain correctly: the direction and position of the file

To hone cutting edge, you will need a round file.

1/5 (20%) of the file diameter should protrude above the top edge;

file position - horizontally at an angle of 90 ° in relation to the guide bar;

preferred sharpening angle - 30 °;
file direction - from open inside tooth.

When sharpening, take care not to damage other chain components. The file will only grind in the forward direction, so you can not move it back and forth, thereby damaging the tooth and the file itself.

Chain sharpening process

Clean the chainsaw chain;
check the chainsaw chain for damage and, if necessary, replace the damaged components;
increase chain tension to prevent cutting teeth from moving during sharpening;
fix the chainsaw;
find the shortest tooth (for orientation) on both sides;
sharpen all cutting teeth on one side and then move on to the other side;
check the result of sharpening: sharpening angle, side and upper edges;
check the height of the plunge depth limiter (if necessary, reduce the height with a flat file);
remove metal dust;
lubricate the chain
adjust chain tension.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a tool

The above describes how to sharpen a chainsaw chain correctly without using special devices. You can make it easier for yourself and use a tool designed specifically to speed up the sharpening process.

Sharpener 12V

Portable sharpener powered by a car battery or other source direct current 12 V. Inexpensive and great option for those who use a chainsaw on a regular basis. As a rule, several grinding stones of various diameters are included in the kit.

Sharpening set (file, tire, gauge)

The advantage is that you are guaranteed to receive correct angle and sharpening depth. In this case, the result is accuracy, in the first case, only speed.

Manual grinder

With the help of such a machine, it is installed, fixed optimal angle sharpening. Allows you to achieve the most best results without removing the chain from the chainsaw.

Electric grinding machine

No effort is required for sharpening: set the angle, depth and turn on the machine. The work is done quickly and efficiently. Depending on the manufacturer, prices are very different, the range is large.

Someone prefers manual way, someone using the machine. Each of them has its pros and cons.

The manual method, using only a file, is inexpensive and does not require spending money. You can sharpen your chainsaw chain anywhere, anytime. In this way, the smallest amount of metal is removed, which means that the saw will last longer. The downside is that it takes skill. Maintaining accurate angles is pretty difficult process and can lead to incorrect and uneven sharpening, which will affect the quality and safety of the cut.

Electric saws are easy to use, allowing you to constantly maintain accurate angles when sharpening the chain. Disadvantages - Machines often result in removal too a large number metal from the teeth, which shortens the life of the chain.

Which method is better? Obviously depends on the preferences of each individual chainsaw user. Even though power tools are easy to use, some people prefer to use hand files (in a set or a hand saw).

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain is up to you. If you are going to use your chainsaw for heavy tasks throughout the year, you will definitely need to sharpen it quite often. Therefore, it makes sense to invest in an electric sharpener. However, if you will be using your chainsaw a few times or for light tasks, a cheap and easy option is the hand tool.

A chainsaw can be called a fairly common tool that is used for cutting wood. Mechanical restoration in this case, it is carried out due to a special saw chain, the fixation of which is carried out on a special tire. Prolonged and improper operation quite often becomes the reason why it is necessary to dismantle and sharpen. At the same time, there are no problems with removing the chain for longitudinal sawing and putting it on today, but there are still problems with direct sharpening. Let us consider the features of such a procedure in more detail.

The modern ripping chain is well represented complex design, which is manufactured using high-quality steel, characterized by increased wear resistance and corrosion resistance. Among the features are the following:

The design is represented by separate links, which are interconnected in a special way. This ensures high level flexibility, the rip chain can repeat complex shape tires.
There are several different types of plates according to their purpose: cutting, guiding and connecting. The cutters carry out the direct removal of the material.

The natural process of operation becomes the reason for the wear of the cutting inserts. In addition, violation of operating recommendations can also lead to a similar result, for example, if soil has entered the cutting zone.

That is why all owners of such a tool should pay attention to exactly how sharpening is carried out.

Sharpening the chain for longitudinal sawing, as a rule, is carried out exclusively when worn, periodically the procedure is performed extremely rarely. That is why you need to know exactly what signs indicate the need for such a procedure. Among the features of the issue under consideration, we note the following:

The tooth of the rip saw chain of a chainsaw is characterized by a complex configuration, so it is easy to visual inspection defects cannot be identified.
To check the condition of the teeth, a trial sawing is carried out. If vibration occurs during such work, this indicates the need for sharpening.
You can also determine the condition of the ripping chain by visually inspecting the chips. Rough chips and dents also indicate the need for service.
Chainsaw pressure is also taken into account when assessing the condition of the chain. At first, when sawing, the inserts easily enter the material, but with heavy wear, even at the beginning it is necessary to apply force.

A visual inspection may also reveal rounding and tapered areas that indicate chain wear and other defects. However, such a sign can only be detected by a specialist with extensive experience.

Grinding angles and saw tooth configuration

As previously noted, the product in question is characterized by a rather complex configuration. Among the features modern options performance, the following points can be noted:

The choice of a chain for longitudinal sawing is carried out for a specific chainsaw model, since the configuration largely depends on power and some other points.
For rip sawing, the insert spacing is 0.325 inches. This ensures high stability at the time of operation.
The cutting edge may have a thickness of 1.3 mm. On sale there are also versions that have a thickness of about 1.1 mm, but they are difficult to sharpen at home. In addition, the small thickness allows cutting not thick branches.
Attention is also paid to the height of the profile, which varies in the range from 0.625 to 0.762 mm. For household options The low profile version is suitable. This indicator determines the likelihood of vibration at the time of sawing.

The sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain largely depends on the purpose of the tool, as some are suitable for cross cutting, others for sawing. Longitudinal resistance of wood to sawing is very high, so the edges must be very sharp. The recommended sharpening angle is 6-12°. The difference in cutting angles is selected depending on the task, as well as some other points.

When performing work, do not forget that too low a sharpening rate causes rapid edge grinding. This moment is the most important in the case when the product is manufactured using alloyed steels, for example, grade 40HGS.

Chainsaw Sharpening Template

To significantly simplify the procedure, it is recommended to purchase a special template, which greatly simplifies the procedure for setting the required angle. Such a tool allows you to check the indicator of the back angles of the conical and upper blades, as well as the leading edge of the cutting edge.

Experts point out that it is most important to use a template to control the back angle. This is due to the complexity of changing this indicator, while it must be maintained in a strict range.

A fairly common indicator is the grinding angle, which also varies depending on the task.

Too high hardness of the material determines the need to reduce this indicator. Experts point out that optimal value varies from 10 to 12°.

Quite widespread special tools which can be used to simplify the procedure. Such machines are equipped with electric drive and with increased wear resistance.

Suitable tool for home use small size. Such devices can be powered from a 220 V network, and at the same time the power consumption indicator is 100 watts. Installing the chain is quite simple, the sharpening procedure can be carried out even without special training.

When choosing a machine, pay attention to the following points:

Adjusting the sharpening angle in a certain required range.
Possibility of processing a chain with different pitch and thickness of the cutting edge.
Features of the procedure for changing grinding discs.
Control of the cutting width value.
The power of the installed electric motor and the energy consumption indicator.

In conclusion, we note that the mistakes made at the time of sharpening can cause increased chain wear. That is why when frequent use tool and the absence of a sharpening machine, it is recommended to entrust the work to professionals who provide appropriate services.

Lumberjacks-professionals and beginners in this business are distinguished by the fact that the former understand exactly how to determine the quality of a chainsaw. It makes little sense to take into account the power of the device alone, since the configuration of the cutting element is of decisive importance. In the case of a chainsaw, this element is the chain, which consists of cutting, driving and connecting links. The cutting link includes a depth gauge and the cutting part itself, the operation of which is somewhat similar to a planer, that is, the thickness of the chips depends on how far the upper edge is extended. The drive link takes over the function of rotating the chain along the groove and distributing the lubricant, and the connecting links are designed to connect the remaining elements of the chain to each other. Their design always takes place at a strict angle, the same applies to subsequent sharpening, since slightest change angle to one side or the other will cause the chainsaw to not work.

The first time such tools began to be used back in 1920, but then the teeth were flat and straight, which could not but affect the final cutting result, and it was quite difficult to work with such a saw. A certain breakthrough in this area occurred in 1947, when it was introduced fundamentally new type chain teeth - L shape made it possible to cut the material much faster, in addition, the process of sharpening the teeth was simplified, so it is not surprising that the invention of Joseph Cox, who proposed such an idea, became a sales leader in a short time. If we consider precisely our days, then almost the same version of a chainsaw has come down to us, which is based on a chain system with a crescent-shaped cutting profile, for which the type of wood does not play a significant role.

What to look for when choosing a saw chain?

Among key features saw chain is distinguished by its pitch, shank or drive link thickness, depth of cut and profile size, and chain length. The direction of the cut should also be taken into account. It is from these parameters that one must build on when a chain is purchased to replace a worn one, or when it is required to purchase a chain for some special needs. In order not to be mistaken, you can look in the device passport, where the manufacturer indicates the main parameters of the saw. If we are talking about the initial purchase of a tool, then these parameters themselves must correspond to the purposes of using a chainsaw.

This parameter is a value in millimeters, although it is customary to write inches in the documentation. It is calculated by dividing by 2 the distance between the three rivets. It is from this characteristic that it is customary to divide canvases into several main groups:

step in 0.25" (6.35mm) used in devices minimum power which are exclusively suitable for dacha works. Dimensional logs with such a step cannot be cut. Chainsaw chains with this pitch are not very common.
The next two groups, where the step in 0.325 and 0.375 inches (8.25 and 9.3 mm respectively) are the most common of all, as approximately 70% of all chainsaws that are produced in the world are included in these groups. Accordingly, they can be used for most existing household tasks. But there is one little trick! Since it is quite easy to confuse the numbers 0.325 and 0.375, chains with a step of 0.375 are marked 3/8, that is, 3/8 inches.
The last group with a step in 0.404 and 0.75 in. (10.26 and 19.05 mm) used for the most challenging tasks. In this case, we are talking about a logging tool rather than a saw for domestic use. That is, you can meet chains with such a pitch only on professional chainsaws.

There is a direct relationship between step size and tool performance, but you also need to consider that a large step implies a more powerful motor. The cutting quality of devices with a large pitch is still inferior to devices from the first three categories, since the teeth are located more densely there. For a power of 2.5 liters, a step of 0.325 mm is suitable, and on a more productive chainsaw it is better to put a saw blade and a chain of 3/8 mm, as this will help to unlock the full potential of the saw.

Drive link thickness

In this case, the division into several main categories according to this parameter is also used. We are talking about thickness values such as 1.1; 1.3; 1.5; 1.6; 2 mm (0.043'', 0.050'', 0.058'', 0.063'', 0.080''). This characteristic, measured in inches, affects how smoothly the cutting blade move while the saw is running.

Chains with a pitch of 1.1 mm are used on low-power household chainsaws, as well as on chainsaws designed for (carving).
Chains with a pitch of 1.3 mm are more common. For example, the famous chainsaw is equipped with chains with just such a pitch. And yes, this is the most common move.
A pitch of 1.5 and 1.6 mm have chains that are intended for professional and "semi-professional" (farm) chainsaws.
2 mm - this step is found exclusively on chains installed on very productive and powerful chainsaws in the professional segment.

Low profile and high profile chains

What you need to know about the height of the chain profile? It determines what will be the depth of cut of the saw. Based on this parameter, the saw can be either low or high profile, respectively, in the first case, the chips will be removed thinner, but the work will be somewhat slower, while in the second case, the depth and productivity will be greater. For a low profile tool, a setting of 0.635 mm is used, and for a high profile tool, 0.762 mm. If we consider devices for domestic use, then they are always low-profile, while professional equipment can be produced in two versions. At the same time, in order to stabilize the vibration that inevitably occurs during operation, manufacturers make a balance between the height of the profile and the number of steps. For a small step make high profile, and vice versa. Failure to follow this rule will lead to the fact that it will be impossible to work with a chainsaw for a long time, although the wood will be cut very quickly. This balance must be observed if there is an intention to sharpen at home, in all other situations it remains only to choose a saw for home or for professional cutting.

Main types of links

If we consider the most common types of links, then this chisel links that are most often found on professional equipment, and chipper that are supplied to simple chainsaws. The first option in the section is a bit like the number 7, and this design allows you to work with the saw as quickly as possible, since the link digs into the material evenly. Cutting is more accurate, but it is extremely difficult to sharpen such links at home, since the slightest deviation from the permissible angle eliminates all the advantages of this design. In the case of a chipper, there is no need to maintain strict angles, and such a link is not so much afraid of contamination, although there is a higher load on the tool. For home use, the second option is more suitable, especially if there are no skills in sharpening the saw. As for the material, chromium-nickel steel is mainly used, although in case of special need, if you need to work with special durable material, the teeth can be hard-faced, as evidenced by the markings on them.

Chains for ripping and cross cutting

The name of the chains corresponds to the direction in which the fibers are cut. To work across the sharp angle of sharpening the link is not needed, since the resistance of the wood is not as great as when working in the longitudinal direction. Each type of wood involves the choice of one direction or another, and if we are talking about professional work with a tree suggesting and slitting including, then it will take up to 5-15 degrees to sharpen the teeth, while 25-35 degrees is enough to work at home. The demand for longitudinal chains is minimal, since for longitudinal work it is more reasonable to use circular saw. It happens that it is quite difficult to find a model that works along, even in a specialized store. For work at home, it does not make sense to look for such a saw, since all household tasks of the device for cross cutting will be performed without difficulty.

How to determine the chain for ripping or crosscutting?

For cross cutting, the chain sharpening angle is 30 degrees.
For longitudinal sawing, the saw chain sharpening angle is 10 degrees.

Stihl's ripping chain is PMX. For example, STIHL 63 PMX 50.

Oregon will have the letter R in the chain model index. Example: 73RD100R

Is the sequence of cutting links important?

In the usual version, when the saw is manufactured at the factory, it is customary to put two drive links on one cutting link, thereby making 50% of the total cutting teeth. Then the productivity of the equipment remains at the level, and the quality of the cut is not lame, but in order to reduce the cost of the chain, the cutting links can be set not every step, but after one or even two steps, which will bring the total number of cutting links to 37.5%. The chainsaw will become cheaper, but the cutting quality will deteriorate greatly, so it is better not to pay attention to such devices.

Carbide chains

Such chains cost an order of magnitude more expensive, and they have a special purpose - working with frozen wood or with contaminated material. In all other situations, the money will be spent in vain, since there is no point in carbide soldering for plain wood.

Main chain manufacturers

Almost any online store or specialized salon offers chainsaw accessories, including chains, from Husqvarna (Sweden), Oregon (Canada), and Stihl (Germany). Each of the manufacturers has its own advantages over its competitors, but the quality of products manufactured by these companies is at about the same level.

Chainsaw chain video

In contact with

Categories

Popular