Why does the plum dry in the spring. Why do not buds bloom on the plum. Plum blossoms but does not bear fruit. What to do

Your plum is not fruiting, and you do not know how to help the plant in this situation? Fruit may be missing from a tree for several reasons. Let's look at the most common of them and find out how to make the plum bear fruit.

Most of the reasons are due to improper care of the plant. Therefore, even at the time of planting, all the preferences of this culture must be taken into account. If you find it difficult to understand what you did wrong in the process of growing, pay attention to these most common reasons why fruits do not form well on a plum.

Reason 1: physiological carrion

It often happens that the trees bloom together, form ovaries, but then some of the fruits crumble before they have time to ripen. It is quite difficult to determine the exact cause of carrion. Usually, the fruits fall off when the tree does not have enough strength to provide them with food. This may be due to a weak root system, unsuitable growing conditions (waterlogging or drought), improper agricultural practices (in particular, illiterate pruning), poor soil, etc.

To help the plant form mature fruits, you need to try to provide it with comfortable conditions. 2-3 times a year, plums are fed according to the following scheme: in spring, under a tree (starting from the age of three), a solution of urea and potassium sulfate is added (2 tablespoons of urea and potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water), and after flowering - nitrophoska ( 3 tbsp per 10 liters of water).

During the formation of fruits, the soil is shed with a solution of fermented chicken manure(in a ratio of 1:20). And in the autumn they spend foliar top dressing potassium sulfate and superphosphate (2 tablespoons of fertilizer per 10 liters of water).

Reason 2: self-fertile plum variety

Most plums are self-fertile (they need pollinating varieties), so it is important to choose the right seedlings when planting. Choose the best pollinators for each variety.

AT rainy weather cross-pollination may be ineffective, since in bad weather the insects that pollinate plants are not active. Then it is better to place self-fertile plum varieties in the garden.

Reason 3: plum diseases

A diseased tree is not able to form a large number of healthy fruits. Often a plum does not bloom and does not bear fruit if it is sick with clasterosporiasis or fruit rot. To prevent the development of these ailments, it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying with fungicides.

At the very beginning of bud break, during flowering, during the appearance of buds and three weeks before harvesting the fruits, 1% Bordeaux liquid is used. In autumn, after leaf fall, trees are sprayed with 3% Bordeaux liquid. It is also important to regularly collect mummified fruits, fallen leaves and burn them.

Reason 4: plum pests

Larvae of the sawfly and papilion, caterpillars of the codling moth and other insects eat the fruits and seeds of the plum. Damaged fruits crumble and quickly rot. And the flower beetle damages the flower buds, so the fruits cannot start at all.

Digging and loosening the soil will help against pests. trunk circle, the use of hunting belts, traps (cans with fermented compote, beer, kvass are hung on branches) and regular (3-4 times per season) insecticide treatments. Such drugs as Fufanon, Karate, Karbofos, Aktara, Mospilan, Calypso have proven themselves well.

Reason 5: bad weather

Fruit buds can freeze if frost suddenly sets in after a thaw. In an unstable climate middle lane this often happens in May. Frequent frost cracks on the trunks and freezing of young shoots greatly weaken the trees, which leads to a decrease in yield. In addition, if a cold wind blows during the day and the air temperature drops sharply, pollen sterilization may occur. Then the fruits will not set either.

Also, plums do not bear fruit well when the summer is too dry or very rainy. It is impossible to influence the weather, so you can only give preference to zoned varieties. They are more resistant to adverse weather conditions specific region.

Reason 6: acidic soil

Plum is demanding on the composition of the soil. It is able to bear fruit only on land with a neutral reaction. Wood ash should be added to acidic soil (200-400 g per 1 sq.m) or slaked lime(300-500 g per 1 sq.m).

It is possible to determine the increased acidity of the soil on the site by several signs: a whitish "ash" layer is noticeable on the surface of the soil; clover is absent or grows very poorly; moss, sorrel, wild rosemary, heather, buttercups, horsetail, belus and other plants that prefer acidic soil are actively growing.

Reason 7: improper planting of a plum seedling

When planting a seedling, it is important not to deepen the root collar, otherwise the plum will not bear fruit in the future.

Reason 8: insufficient lighting for the tree

When planting trees in the shade of a house, near tall plants, behind high solid fences, plums do not have enough light, so they refuse to form fruits. Some do not even bloom under such conditions. Therefore, plums should be planted only in sunny areas. Trees growing in the shade should be replanted.

Don't forget that in hot weather plum is not enough moisture. Then she, too, does not bear fruit. And in autumn, the tree needs water-charging (abundant) watering so that it can gain strength and safely survive the winter.

In our gardens. It's time to talk about what plum diseases can deprive us of the long-awaited harvest.

Colorful, perfectly shaped, intact plum fruits are a gardener's dream. With maximum yield.

We see these on tags attached to seedlings, on supermarket shelves.

To see healthy, beautiful plums on your own grown tree, you have to work hard.

Juicy sweet fruit we love not only. There are many competitors.

The garden pet is attacked not only by offenders visible to the eye, it is also affected by microorganisms of various types.

They cause plum disease.

What is sick plum

Like any living organism, the plum tree is susceptible to disease.

It affects him, like a person, pathogenic flora of three types:

• Bacterial;
• viral;
• Fungal.

Non-infectious diseases in trees also occur.

During the years of revelry of any of the groups of diseases, not only the garden can lose its crop.

The owner, who has not taken timely measures to protect and treat plants, may lose the garden itself.

Plum Infectious Diseases

Transmitted (infectious) from other plants of the same species or interspecific diseases require the vigilance of the gardener.

From an oversight, they can flare up in the garden like a fire.

Viral infections

Smallpox (sharka)

Distributed in all areas of plum cultivation in Russia.

Favorable conditions for the development of the disease, the climate suitable for it, coincide with the beloved plum in the southern region.

But it withstands sharka and harsh conditions of winters in the middle zone.

Smallpox - common disease stone fruit crops. Apricots, cherries, cherry plums, and other stone fruits suffer from this virus.

You can first notice the defeat of the sharki virus on the leaves.

Lightened rings of leaf tissue and stripes on it, depleted in chlorophyll, are a reason to be wary.

The first signs of smallpox are such marks on the leaves. They are lighter than healthy tissue, visible through the light. Later the spots and lines turn yellow.

The fruits are also affected. This is noticeable from afar by abnormally early maturation - the color changes.

Ring-shaped depressed spots also appear on the fruits. This is probably why the disease is called smallpox.

There may also be linear dark stripes. Diseased plums are ugly deformed.

The flesh is affected to the bone, brown. A sticky transparent gum accumulates in the lesions.

Plums fall early, they are unsuitable for use. Treatment of a plum diseased with sharka does not give a result.

Plum trees infect smallpox - aphids. They carry the virus from other plants.

Sharka is "polyphagous" and settles not only on fruit trees. It can also get on the plum from ornamental (clover), medicinal (melilot), weeds (nightshade).

Grafting, planting material may contain the virus. Another way to transfer is garden tools.

When processing several trees, it is worth considering the disinfection of budding knives, secateurs, and other equipment - after each.

Our garden wards will be grateful for the sterility. And they will thank you: health and harvest.

Chlorotic ring spot

The disease also causes leaf discoloration.

These are rings or a blurry pattern. In the middle of the border, a hole is formed from the ring: necrotic tissue falls out.

A mosaic patterned border remains around the holes.

Leaves with this plum disease become smaller, become narrow, hard and wrinkled.

Characterized by a slowdown in the growth of foliage and the whole tree.

Ring spot spreads through untreated inventory.

Maybe through pollen and seeds of infected plants. Through weeds - only in transit: they are temporary carriers of the disease. Springboards for pollen.

Like smallpox, it can be transmitted with grafting material, seedlings.

group of fungal diseases

Fungal plum diseases are widespread, especially in dense plantings or when crowns are thickened.

A warm, humid climate is an additional risk of tree fungus.

Outbreaks of fungal diseases are companions of a wet summer in any geographical area. Dry years inhibit the development of the fungus.

Clusterosporiasis

It affects the aerial parts of the plum: buds, branches, leaves, flowers, the fruits themselves.

The disease can be recognized by brown spots on the leaves. The spots have a reddish border.

They crumble, holes are formed - holes on the leaves. Hence the second name of the plum disease is perforated spotting.

Shoots become covered with spots, the bark cracks. If the kidneys are affected, they turn black. Flowers fall off.

Affected leaves dry up. Spots also form on the fruits: at first, small, depressed, differing in color (reddish) from the rest of the surface.

Later they swell, gum oozes out of the spots. The fruits dry up.

Since the disease is fungal, there is an active production of spores. They are small, volatile, and spread rapidly.

Stone plantations are infected by the transfer of spores by wind, insects, through inventory.

Productivity is greatly reduced - to the point of complete loss. Sick trees are weakened.

Moniliosis

The plum disease moniliosis also has names: gray rot (reflects the process in a nutshell) and the official one - monilial stone burn.

The consequences are really similar to a burn. Branches dry out quickly, but not all. Leaves and flowers do not fall off.

If the tree is strongly captured by the infection, closely spaced branches dry, as if a fire was made under them and scorched them. Therefore, the name contains the definition: burn.

The surviving flowers set fruit. But spores from diseased branches fall on them.

Plums become infected if the skin is damaged: by mechanical friction against branches, insects, or microcracks are obtained from temperature changes.

Close contact with a sick fetus also causes disease of a healthy one.

On the plum, moniliosis manifests itself more often as fruit rot.

With this disease, plums deteriorate quickly, right on the branch.

The biology of moniliosis provided for its wintering in plant fragments damaged by the disease.

If the dried "burned" shoots went uncircumcised into the winter, or the mummified fruits were not removed, this is an ideal "hostel" for the fungus.

wait in the spring gray rot visiting early.

In rotten plums, moniliosis overwinters both on the ground and on branches.

At spring bloom spores will fall on the pistils, and from there they will already carry out destructive work in all parts of the plant.

plum pockets

The set fruits take on a strange shape.

They are drawn out in the form of sacs, do not form bones (or form only rudimentary ones).

Plums are not like ordinary plums, they are also called puffy, and the disease is marsupial.

The length of such a bag can be Matchbox or even more. The color remains green for a long time, then turns brown, inedible fruits dry out, fall off. The harvest is lost.

Spores hibernate on a tree where they can attach themselves. Under the scales of the kidneys, in the cracks in the bark.

Infection in spring occurs through flowers, only fruits are affected.

During the season, the mushroom gives one generation, one cycle of its development goes through.

coccomycosis

Leaves and fruits are affected.

Small spots of purple-red, sometimes brown, color form on top of the leaves.

Their number and size increase until the entire sheet is covered with spots.

The bottom side is a platform for disputes. They are located in whitish tubercles - pads.

Affected fruits acquire an ugly shape, they are unsuitable for food.

Leaves fall, turning yellow or turning brown. The tree goes into the winter weakened, it may not overwinter.

Young plums are especially vulnerable.

Fungal infection overwinters in leaves that have fallen and not harvested.

milky shine

The beautiful name is deceptive: the disease is dangerous for the plum and often affects it.

An unusually silvery sheen of leaves, air bubbles in their tissues are a characteristic sign of this plum disease.

Like all fungal scourges, milky sheen loves wet weather, settles in any damage to the plant.

The color of the leaf changes from damage: cavities with air are formed between the tissue and the epidermis (surface film).

The veins and the terminal border of the leaves die. Brown spots appear on the branches and trunk. Later, the entire bark darkens, falls off in strips. With the development of the disease, the leaves dry, the tree dies.

The fungus that has settled in the tissues of the tree is active when the plum is in a dormant period.

It penetrates into the wood through wounds on the bark, after pruning wintering trees - through cuts.

Poplar infection is transmitted - unwanted plum neighbors. A milky sheen enters the garden and with planting material or through vaccinations.

Gardeners are looking for information on how to process plums, how to treat this disease.

Milky shine is not treated, only prevention is possible.

Polystigmosis

Plum also becomes ill with red spotting - polystigmosis.

This is another "burn", only with the definition - mushroom.

Blurred spots cover both sides of the leaf. The spots are red, initially pale. Later color intense red, smooth convex glossy surface.

The spots are convex above, concave below the sheet. Their shape is similar to pillows. To the touch, the formations in the leaf tissue are dense.

In wet years, the leaves fall off already in the summer - the mycelium develops quickly. In drought, the leaf lasts longer, dark formations - spore storage - in the concave side of the spots have time to form.

The carriers of the infection are fallen leaves and leaves of nearby trees infected with polystigmosis.

Small, light, flying spores spread easily.

Curly

The sheet is deformed, corrugated, changes color to yellow or reddish. It twists - hence the name.

Gradually, the leaves thicken, covered with bloom.

Shoots are also deformed, acquire a curved shape. Internodes are short and thick.

Then the leaves turn dark and fall off. The fruits are not tied.

If the plum is not badly damaged, the fruits are there, but the shape is ugly, the pulp is inedible.

With this disease, plums can rarely overwinter.

Trees are infected with spores wintering under bark scales. The kinky cycle begins with kidney damage.

Rust

Common, especially in the south, plum disease.

The spots on the sheets are located between the veins, the color is brownish, with a rusty tint.

By autumn, the spots take the form of pads, darken. Spores overwinter in leaf litter.

Interestingly, the original host and distributor of rust is a perennial garden flower anemone (anemone).

Anemone rhizomes are an ideal "winter hut" for the fungus.

If the anemone contains the causative agent of rust, yellow spore receptacles form under its leaves in spring.

There are no plum varieties resistant to rust, but their susceptibility varies.

It is easier to save the Anna Shpett variety - it is not very susceptible. It is also possible with careful prevention Renklod green.

sooty fungus

The surface of the leaf is covered with a black, soot-like coating.

The pores of the leaf are clogged, air exchange is disturbed, the formation of chlorophyll - from a lack sunlight.

The disease has fundamental difference from others - the fungus is located superficially, erased, washed off.

After that, the plum can be completely cured by treating it with an antifungal drug.

Bacterial diseases

Bacterial spotting

It appears first on the leaves as rounded small spots.

Later, the spots lose their roundness, they are bordered by broken dark lines. The inner part of the spots dries, crumbles, outside, around the border, the leaf is yellowish.

On the fruits are black convex spots, edged with white. As they grow, they change color to brown. The surface is scaly with a depression in the middle.

The infection penetrates through damage to the epidermis. Progresses rapidly in the warm, wet season.

The disease weakens the plum, deprives the gardener of the harvest.

Witch's broom

thriving in different parts crowns dense thin twigs - not a crown formation error.

This is mycoplasma (provoked by the smallest microorganisms) disease.

They call it the witch's broom. Barren "extra" branches take away a large part of the nutrition, thicken the crown.

The leaves on this bunch of branches are covered with bloom from below. These are the spores of the fungus - a hotbed of disease.

Once upon a time, the inquisitors considered a fire to be a radical remedy for witches.

For witch brooms, even today there is no way invented - better. They are cut and burned.

Noncommunicable diseases

Gum therapy (gommosis)

Plum, like all stone fruits, is prone to gum disease.

Drops of the color and transparency of amber flow from the wounds of the trunk, freeze on it. So the plant tries to seal the damage.

Gum - tears of a tree. The culprit of the disease is often the gardener himself. Careless or untimely pruning, untreated bark wounds, unhealed cracking of the stem surface - these are all reasons for the expiration of gum, the formation of hollows.

Gum therapy weakens the plant. It is not capable of healing wounds, entrance gate infections remain.

The risk of diseases increases, infection of the plum with pathogenic microflora.

Plums affected by gommosis are stunted, emaciated, and may die.

Gum therapy is a scourge of stone fruits. With this in mind, try to warn him with careful plum care.

shrinkage

A disease leading to the death of a tree.

The reason is non-compliance with agricultural technology. Stone fruits often dry out, plums are no exception.

A plum can die very quickly, a month of adverse factors (this is soaking, freezing, gum disease) is a disastrous time for it.

Drying factors:

• planted in the area where ground water stand high, the drain runs the risk of being flooded and wet. The plant dries up.
• Plum will also die on acidified or strongly alkaline soils.
• Salt marshes are also unsuitable for plums.
• The surface root system freezes slightly in years with severe winters.
• Heavy pruning in autumn does not give the tree time to recover by winter. It dies in winter, and sometimes “pulls” until spring, tries to wake up and immediately dries out.
• Gum flow, not stopped, not cured in time, is another factor in drying out. The plant simply expires, weakens, does not survive.

Treatment of plum diseases

It is not enough to plant, water and “feed” a tree. He still needs to be protected from ailments, protected from misfortunes. Take care like a child.
Protection begins with the choice of location. Plum is thermophilic, loves moisture too.

But she needs to provide the sun and moderate blowing with a gentle wind, otherwise all kinds of diseases, especially fungal ones, will overcome the plum in dampness.

We treat plums for fungal diseases

Fungal diseases of plums are similar both in group and in optimal conditions for development.

Feel free to them in the gardens, where:

• Plums planted closely;
• Poplars grow nearby;
• High standing of waters under the soil;
• Increased air humidity;
• Tree branches are thickened;
• Pruning is untimely or excessively strong;
• A fallen leaf is not burned, especially a sick one;
• Bark wounds do not heal;
• Mummified fruits are left in the crown.

From this list it is easy to calculate: what are the agrotechnical (mechanical) measures that get rid of the annoying fungus of various types.

• Do not thicken either the planting or the crown itself. It should be ventilated, blown by the breeze, which the fungus will not like. The sun will also dry and heat the tree, protect it from diseases.
• If the milky sheen of plums is not uncommon in the region, and you love both poplar near the fence and plum fruits in your garden, you will have to sacrifice one of these addictions. Which - choose yourself.
• Do not plant the plum "on the water." Where the water layer lies close to the surface, spring floods or rains will easily destroy the plant.
• The humid climate will not let you relax. You can save the plum. This will require regular inspections, fungicide treatments - preventive. If necessary, medical.
• Take care of a living organism - a plum tree. Cut it neatly and according to the rules.
• Disinfect inventory.
• Landing, inoculum do not take in questionable places. Visit the nursery, enlist the guarantee of the health of seedlings.
• Take your time and do not delay pruning. If possible, it is better to minimize it: break out extra shoots in the summer. Thin green twigs are easily twisted without leaving wounds. After lignification, the risk of infection increases.
• Cut without stumps.
• Handle cuts. You can rub them with sorrel, then paint over. Untreated, they "catch" the infection.
• Burn the cut branches.
• Remove the mummified fruits from the branches, shake off the remaining hanging leaves.
• Gather autumn leaf litter from the garden and burn it together with infected material removed from the plum tree.
• Dig up the trunk circles, digging in the spring - repeat.

Plum plant protection products will require a minimum. But it will require.

This is Bordeaux liquid. A kind old friend, at the same time - a formidable warrior against the fungus.

Spray several times

• In autumn, after leaf fall and garden cleaning: the aerial part of the plum tree and the near-trunk circle;
• In the spring, before the opening of the kidney - "along the green cone";
• Immediately after flowering.

You can use vitriol (copper) by adding soap to its solution. Soap disinfects and increases the ability of the solution to adhere to the treatment surfaces (leaf, branches, trunk).

The nuances of the types of fungus. There are also features in getting rid of a harmful fungus of different types:

• If there is rust on the plum and an anemone in the garden, the anemone will have to be removed;
• Trees sick with a milky sheen are uprooted and destroyed.

Fight against bacterial, viral and non-infectious diseases

All measures of agricultural technology that prevent infection with a fungus are observed.

They will also save you from other troubles - the ways of infection are similar.

But if fungal diseases treated with fungicides (antifungal drugs), this method will not remove viruses. The main thing is not to bring them into the garden, to prevent plum disease.

If this happened:

• The witch's broom is cut to a healthy tissue, disinfected and painted over the cut. The broom itself is burned.
• Having discovered a quarantine disease - smallpox, the diseased plum must be uprooted, the affected material must be burned.
• Young purchased seedlings can be warmed up - viruses do not withstand a temperature of 46 ° that is safe for draining. Warm up by immersion in water. 15 minutes is enough to disinfect the material. Make such a bath for beginners who are preparing to settle in the garden, they will not bring the virus.

Non-infectious diseases (gum disease, drying out) are prevented by eliminating the factors provoking them.

As you can see, many diseases threaten our pet, so keep a close eye on your garden.

Take action on time, save yourself from laborious long work afterwards. In the next article, we will get acquainted with plums.

See you soon, dear readers!

Plum trees grow in front of our house. After this winter, we were afraid that they would freeze. But the plums survived, although they did not bloom. In summer, a part of the crown of one adult tree withered. The leaves do not fall off, withered right on the plant. The literature says that such branches should be removed. But in our case, we need to cut down half the tree! And there is no damage on the trunk. On the other plum, a small twig also withered. Neighbors say it may have come from the drought. But we watered our trees with a hose, and wetted the leaves too. What is it? How should we proceed? N. Ryabova, Pavlovo

From lack of moisture, young trees can really dry out. But, as a rule, the whole plant suffers, and the leaves wither on all branches equally. Mature trees are saved from drought by a deep root system that draws moisture from the lower layers of the soil.

In the case of the plum, the reason for the death of half the tree is most likely that it is affected by moniliosis.

Moniliosis is a fungal disease of stone fruit trees such as cherries, plums, apricots. The fungus-causative agent infects the plant during the flowering period, falling on the pistil of the flower. Then it germinates and penetrates the branch through the pedicel. Further, moniliosis develops inside the branch, affecting the wood deeper and deeper. At the end of June, individual dried branches can be seen on a diseased plant. According to the nature of the disease (the leaves hang on the tree as if burned), the disease is also called monilial burn.

Sometimes the disease becomes mass phenomenon and then a significant part of the crown dies.

The causative agents of the disease can penetrate into the tree through cracks and other mechanical damage to the plant. Affected fruits (cherries, plums, apricots) become brown and soften, then they dry out (mummify). Without falling, the fruits hang on the tree until spring.

Pathogens hibernate inside the affected plants and mummified fruits. In spring, spores are spread by air, raindrops or insect pests.

The most favorable for the development of moniliosis is warm, humid weather. This year there is a drought, but if you often water the plants, wetting the leaves with a hose, then the effect can be compared to rainy weather.

The development of the disease is also facilitated by the thickening of plants, as well as their location in a lowland.

AT bad years when moniliosis becomes widespread, the crop can completely die, and the tree can become very weak. If you do not take action for several years, the plant will completely dry out.

Measures to combat moniliosis:

1. The garden should be planted in well-ventilated areas.

2. Remove shoots of cherries, plums, avoiding dense plantings.

3. Avoid mechanical damage to plants, and in case of such, treat wound surfaces (cover with garden pitch or paint).

4. Remove dry branches as soon as you find them. Cut them out, grabbing healthy wood 10-15 cm down. If this is not done during this, then the damage to the branch will only increase, since the pathogen penetrates deep into (down) the wood.

5. Collect dried fruits and destroy them (burn). To collect fruits from the upper branches, use special devices, but do not leave the source of the disease in the crown of the tree.

6. Collect leaves that have fallen during pruning and in the fall. Burn them. Never put in compost!

7. Treat cherries, plums and others annually stone fruits fungicides against moniliosis. Suitable preparations are HOM, HORUS (according to the instructions), copper oxychloride (40 g of powder per 5 liters of water). Processing is carried out before and after flowering. After pruning the affected branches, treat fruit trees with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Garden" 2010 No. 14.

Every industrious gardener always expects beautiful harvest fruit in your garden. In order for the harvest to be varied, and the palette of tastes unusual, gardeners try to plant different types fruit trees among which plum occupies a special place.

All kinds of culinary recipes and preservation, precocity, good yields - these are just some of the excellent characteristics of such a tasty fruit as a plum. But sometimes, nevertheless, a situation arises when, it seems, the gardener correctly cut the plum, fertilized, watered, but the harvest did not wait. And after such a failure, the gardener begins to look for the reason that the plum did not please the crop.

To protect all gardeners from such disappointments, in this article we will try to tell in as much detail as possible about the reasons and factors why the plum does not bear fruit, and also give recommendations on how to collect good harvest this delicious fruit.

Causes of crop failure

As a rule, if the gardener did not wait for the plum harvest, then this can only mean one thing: mistakes were made in the process of caring for this fruit tree.

Among the reasons for this situation, the following main points can be distinguished:

1. Incorrect soil type selected.
2. Plum sapling planted incorrectly.
3. Incorrectly selected plum variety for a particular region.
4. Watering was carried out irregularly.
5. Insufficient fertilization.
6. Poor ovary at flowering.
7. The tree is damaged by pests, and their control was poorly carried out.
8. The old tree did not bear fruit well.
9. The fruiting period has not yet come.

What kind of soil is suitable

It has been noticed that those types of soil are suitable for plums, on which little grows!

This statement makes perfect sense because the following types of soils are best suited for plum growth:

• clay;
• medium clay;
• sandy;
• with increased level humidity.

In other words, plum grows well on heavy and moist soils. Therefore, if a plum tree is planted on other types of soil, then it is quite possible that the yield may be quite insignificant.

However, it is important that the plum is very difficult to tolerate acidic soils. In order to level this factor, a mixture of wood ash, chalk and lime, the ratio of which is 1:3:1.

Improper planting of seedlings

One of the factors that affects the fruiting of plums is proper fit seedling. When performing this operation, gardeners quite often make the following types of mistakes:

1. Recessed plum planting. In order not to make mistakes of this kind in the future, it is worth knowing that the plum does not tolerate too deep planting.

For reference: the root neck is that part of the seedling where the roots end and the trunk begins.

2. Incorrect fertilization in the hole. The mistake of many gardeners is that trying to put a lot of fertilizer in the hole for good growth plums, in fact, only harm the seedling.

Therefore, when fertilizing, try to adhere to the following tips:

• do not make fresh manure;
• most optimal composition nutrients for a plum seedling will be a mixture of 4–5 kg of rotted humus, 6–8 kg of peat, 1 kg of wood ash, 0.3 kg of superphosphate and 0.1 kg of potassium sulfate.

3. Wrong choice of landing site. The misconception is that the plum is only enough to plant in a lighted place. But sunlight may be enough for the growth of branches, but it will not be enough for fruiting. Therefore, it is worth adhering to the following recommendations regarding the choice of a plum planting site:

• landing area must be level;
• it is undesirable to plant near large trees;
• the illumination of the site should be stable throughout the daylight hours;
• the landing site should be well protected from sudden gusts of wind.

How much and when to water the tree

It is necessary to water the plum in the following periods:

• immediately after the appearance of flowers on the tree;
• when the ovary is formed (15–20 days after the first watering);
• during bone formation;
• the last watering is carried out at the end of September in order to secure root system from freezing.

The norms of water required for irrigation are in the following proportions:

• for a seedling, the rate of one-time watering is 40–70 liters;
• for plums from 3 to 5 years - 50-100 liters;
• for a tree from 6 to 10 years - 130-190 liters.

Watering plums at the specified time necessary quantity water, you are guaranteed to be provided with a good harvest.

When to feed

Plum fruiting is significantly affected proper feeding soil. Therefore, fertilization should be carried out as follows:

• before flowering, the plum should be fed with urea at the rate of 25 g per 1 m2. The best option during this period, there will also be the introduction of organic fertilizers in the form of rotted manure or infusion of bird droppings;
• during the filling of fruits, top dressing (approximately - the month of July) is applied to the soil in the form of organic fertilizers;
• after harvesting, top dressing should consist of potash and phosphorus fertilizers, the concentration of which, respectively, should be 30 g per 1 m2 and 75 g per 1 m2.

It is worth remembering: organic fertilizers in the plum garden you need to make 1 time in 2 years, while the application rate should be 400 kg per 10 acres.

Tree damage by diseases and pests

Plum damage by diseases and pests is the most threatening factor not only for fruiting, but also for the growth of the tree as a whole. Among the main plum diseases, the following important points can be distinguished:

1. Plum coccomycosis is characterized by the appearance of red spots on the leaves. Affected leaves eventually begin to dry and fall off. The main measures to combat this disease are the cleaning and burning of fallen leaves, as well as the treatment of the tree crown with a solution of honey oxychloride, the concentration of which should be 40 g per 10 liters of water.

2. Plum gommosis appears on damaged areas bark and on frostbitten branches. A symptom of the disease is the appearance of drops of gum on damaged areas of the tree. Prevention of the fight consists in treating the tree with a 1% solution of copper sulphate, and the affected areas can also be covered with garden pitch.

3. Plum fruit rot or moniliosis is a very common disease, which is characterized by the appearance of small gray growths and subsequent decay of the plum, and quickly passes to nearby fruits. The main measure to combat this disease is the treatment of wood with copper chloride or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

5. Plum codling moth is characterized by damage or complete destruction of the fruit. To combat this insect, spraying the tree with a 10% solution of benzophosphate is used.

6. Plum aphid is characterized by the fact that it settles on the inside of the leaves, which eventually curl and die, thereby weakening the tree. The destruction of this type of insect occurs by spraying the tree with a 25% solution of rovikurt or a 10% solution of benzophosphate.

We invite you to watch a video on how to deal with Plum pests:

Why the ovary does not persist after flowering

The poor fruiting of plums can also be affected by the fact that the plum ovary is not preserved after flowering. The reasons for this situation are as follows:

1. The natural drop of the ovary is primarily due to the fact that warm and sunny weather contributes to the formation a large number flowers. But the tree, as if “feeling” that it will not be able to provide the fruits with enough nutrients, begins to drop the ovary. The negative point of this situation is that there are no effective measures to preserve the plum ovary.

2. The self-infertility of the variety is another factor in the fact that the fruiting of the plum is reduced to zero. The reason for this situation is that most plum varieties are self-infertile. In other words, the plum should be planted next to those trees in which the flowering period coincides with it. Many gardeners also advise choosing the right plum varieties, which include Stanley, Niagara, Herman and other species.

crown thickening

One of the reasons for the poor fruiting of the plum is the irregular pruning of the branches, as a result of which the crown of the tree thickens greatly.

The result of this is a slowdown in the process of photosynthesis, which, in turn, negatively affects the formation of fruit ovaries.

Zoned varieties

Plum "Tula Black"

Be sure to remember that not every plum variety may be suitable for growing in a particular region. Therefore, you should carefully consider the choice of plums for your region. For example, here are the most favorable varieties for some regions:

• for cold regions, the Tula Black and Hungarian Moscow varieties are optimally suited;
• for medium regions - "Skoroplodnaya", "Yakhontovaya", "Alexy" and others;
• for southern regions suitable for most varieties of plums.

Sooner or no longer possible

All varieties of plums enter the fruiting phase with different terms: some begin to produce crops in the 4-5th year, others - only after 6-8 years. Therefore, when purchasing a seedling, specify the name of the variety and the time of onset of stable fruiting. To speed up this process, it is recommended to graft the trees. In grafted plums, this phase occurs 2-3 years earlier.

Another reason why you do not see a full harvest is the age of the tree itself. If you're buying a home with a yard or garden, be sure to ask about the age of the stone fruit crops. On average, the fruiting period is 15-18 years, calculated from the end of growth and the beginning of fruiting time. Therefore, prepare a replacement for old trees in advance.

In this article, we tried to tell in as much detail as possible about the reasons that the plum does not bear fruit well.
We hope that by using the tips and tricks in this article, you will assemble a beautiful and rich harvest plum from your garden.

Below, we suggest you watch a video on why the plum does not bear fruit:

Gardeners often face various troubles when growing fruit trees. No one can be one hundred percent sure that nothing threatens his garden, because there are so many infections and pests. Gardeners often ask - why does the plum dry, what to do? Indeed, there can be many reasons for this and it is quite difficult to immediately determine them. "Popular about health" will tell you what can provoke a sudden drying of the leaves on the plum and tell you possible ways problem solving.

Why does the tree dry?

What can cause plums to dry out? Wrong care or something else? Sometimes fruit trees wither and gradually shed their foliage due to lack of moisture. If the summer turned out to be hot, and watering is poorly organized, the tree suffers. Plum is especially in need of abundant watering when it begins to bloom and form ovaries.

Another reason - fruit crop froze in winter. Plum afraid severe frosts so it's best to choose frost-resistant varieties tree, but in this case there is no guarantee that the branches will not freeze. Proper care and the right conditions certainly play a part in keeping the plum tree from wilting, but not always. In most cases, pests and all kinds of infections that affect the crop are involved in the problem. Consider diseases that may cause wilting of a tree.

Plum dries - what diseases are related to this?

Cytosporosis

Cytosporosis is a disease caused by a fungus. The defeat starts from the bark. On it you can see points resembling goose bumps. Further, these areas acquire a red-brown hue. The tree dries partially - first of all, those branches that grow on the affected area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe trunk. Once the infection has spread deep into the tissue of the wood, the culture may die.

Verticillium wilt (wilt)

If the tree is infected with verticillium wilt, which affects the root part, then the plum dries from below. This usually happens in the middle of summer. If you saw that the leaves on the lower crown of the plum began to curl and fall off, then soon the disease would spread higher and destroy the entire tree. Sometimes the disease proceeds a little differently - the foliage flies around on separate branches, while others are intact.

late blight

It turns out that late blight can also affect the plum. In this case, wilting begins rapidly and affects the entire tree. The cause of the disease is most often damage to the root area, where the infection penetrates. The fungus develops, clogs the vessels of the tree, it does not receive nutrients and dies within two to three years.

Monilial burn

This disease is also caused by fungi. Their spores are dispersed by the wind and enter the tree through the pistils during plum blossom. Feature diseases - the plum dries not all, but in parts. Some branches begin to wither, while others, which have not yet been infected, turn green.

Sharka

The carrier of this disease is almost always aphids. How does sharka appear? At first, you may notice on plum leaves light spots reminiscent of marble stains. The leaves turn yellow-green and then fall off. characteristic feature this disease are rings and stripes on the fruits, after which they are deformed and fall off. Further development disease leads to complete drying of the tree.

Plum dries - what pests attack it?

Various pests are capable of literally sucking all the juice out of a tree. They feed on the juice of leaves, multiply, more and more new individuals appear that need nutrients. If their presence is not detected in time, the plum will begin to wither. What pests can attack this tree? This is aphids, spider mites, scale insects.

What to do with plum?

First of all. It is necessary to understand the reasons that caused the wilting. Pests can most often be seen, for example, aphids. spider mite manifests itself by the presence of a light fluffy coating on the underside of the leaves. An adult individual of the California scale insect has a size of a little more than 1 millimeter, while its larvae are microscopic, they are unlikely to be considered. But as a result of the activity of this pest, cracks form on the trunk, and brown spots appear on the fruits of the plum. How to save a tree from death?

It is necessary to timely treat the plum with insecticides and acaricides. From plum aphid help get rid of drugs - fufafon or danadim.

If the plum is affected by fungal infections, it is treated with phytosporin, Bordeaux liquid, as well as copper-containing preparations. The selection of the drug is carried out depending on the established cause of the disease. Important role disease prevention plays, because most of them develop due to the invasion of pests or improper care behind a tree. For example, to prevent cytosporosis, it is necessary to take care of the integrity of the cortex, treat cuts and damage with garden pitch and blue vitriol.

So, why the plum dries, we figured out - both infections and pests can be the cause, and winter frosts or poor-quality watering of the tree are sometimes involved in this problem. If you notice signs of wilting, act immediately, otherwise you may lose fruit tree forever and ever. But this is not the worst thing - the inaction of the gardener leads to infection of other inhabitants of the garden.