Ripening time of tomatoes after flowering. Spring protection of garden plants from pests and diseases
With favorable temperature conditions and the presence of moisture, the seeds germinate for 3-4 days. First, a root appears and is introduced into the ground. Cotyledon leaves come out of the soil and immediately open. After germination, further growth is due to the growth point, in which real leaves are laid one after another. The first leaf usually appears after 6-10 days, the next three or four leaves - every 5-6 days, and then faster - every 3-5 days.
Along with the formation of leaves, the stem and roots grow.
Above the seventh - ninth true leaf early maturing varieties and over 12 ... 14 leaves in late-ripening (approximately 30 ... 40 days after germination) buds of flower brushes are laid. Since that time, the process of budding and vegetative growth have been going in parallel, without stopping almost throughout the entire growing season.
According to the nature of growth, indeterminate, determinant and semi-determinant types of tomato plants are distinguished.
Indeterminate varieties have unlimited stem growth, the lateral shoot closest to the inflorescence grows strongly and continues the main axis, the inflorescence usually forms after three leaves. The growth of such plants is unlimited, the main stem does not complete growth, forming a tall (up to 2.5 ... 8 meters), powerful bush.
In determinant varieties, the bush is small or medium in size, the main stem itself is limited in growth, ending with an inflorescence. On the main stem there can be from 2 to 8 inflorescences, which are located through 1 ... 2 leaves, and sometimes in a row. The height of the stem in such plants reaches 40 ... 80 centimeters, and in standard varieties - 30 ... 60 centimeters. A feature of determinant varieties is a low bush, the main stem and stepchildren stop growing after the formation of 2 ... 4 brushes, the first flower brush is laid over 6 ... 7 leaves. All shoots end with an inflorescence, after which their growth usually stops. These varieties are characterized by friendly flowering and fruit formation, give higher yields. Low-growing varieties are standard and ordinary. In standard varieties, the bush is compact, the leaves are corrugated.
The budding phase in tomatoes lasts about 15-20 days. The phase of the beginning of flowering, depending on the variety and meteorological conditions, occurs 40 ... 90 days after emergence. On the first day of the opening of the flower, and sometimes even before opening, the ovary is fertilized, after which the growth of the fetus begins. When the fruit reaches a size close to normal, its maturation begins. The period from flowering to fruit ripening lasts 45 ... 65 days.
There are the following degrees of ripeness of tomato fruits: green, milky, brown, pink, full.
Green - the fruits are dense, reach a normal size, green, acquire a pale green color and have developed, but still with a soft shell, seeds.
Dairy - the fruits are still dense, but acquire a glossy sheen, light green color with a whitish tinge. The flesh is light green with the beginning of a pale pinkish or yellowish color and the beginning of mucus around the seeds. Seeds are normally developed with a hard shell.
Brown - the fruits are dense with a glossy surface, the color is whitish-brown with light pink (light yellow) spots, the flesh is pinkish (yellowish), slimy around the seeds.
Pink (yellowish) - the density of the fruit is reduced, most of the surface is pink-brown (yellow-brown in yellow-fruited) color, the flesh is pink (light yellow), suitable for consumption in fresh without dosing.
Full (red) maturity - the fruits acquire the consistency and taste of the pulp characteristic of the botanical variety, the color of the skin and pulp.
When the fruit overripes, the color darkens, the pulp liquefies, and the taste decreases.
In almost every letter with an order for tomato seeds, readers ask how I grow seedlings, are interested in the features of agricultural technology and how plants are formed, etc.
I will try to answer all the questions asked of me in letters, taking as a basis the agricultural technology of the experience of growing tomatoes in the Ural-Siberian zone, the well-known gardener in the Chelyabinsk region Nadezhda Alekseevna Stukalova.
In her book, she shares her secrets about harvesting. Many years have passed, the book was released in 1998. And I have not yet seen such simplicity of presentation for beginners and experienced gardeners.
I already wrote in my articles that every gardener has his own agricultural technology, his own experience, his own habits of growing a particular crop. But everyone is united by the desire to grow their own unique "I". To embody your "I" "in the tomato business", grow very large ones, about one kilogram or more.
1. General rules growing tomatoes.
To have good harvest at minimal cost, novice gardeners need to determine for themselves a few simple rules.
Rule one. News workbook. In a notebook, note varieties, planting time, top dressing, weather features, etc. and whatever you need.
Rule two. Select varieties, knowing their characteristics: stem height, fruit weight and color, yield from the bush, disease resistance, etc. Determine for yourself how you will use the harvest.
Some gardeners are fond of making salads, lecho, ketchup, of course, large fleshy fruits are needed for this. For juices and pickles, medium-sized crops are suitable. For filling cans are good, small "cherry" and medium.
Finally, when choosing varieties, consider climate zone where you live and the place where you will grow plants, in a greenhouse, in warm beds, in open ground. And, most importantly, the possibilities of cultivation, taking into account time, health, age. As a rule, in our time, not young people are engaged in the land, and therefore everyone fell in love with such a wonderful variety "Mongolian dwarf".
Yes! These are not sugar fruits, not giants. These are ordinary tomatoes, but do not require any care, just plant and collect.
WHERE TO GET SEEDS?
Don't buy from random people! Large-fruited, author's varieties are best purchased from well-known gardeners.
There are good "masters - tomato growers" in every collective garden, village. Standard varieties can be purchased from well-known agricultural firms. I purchase the varieties of Novosibirsk Selection and Altai Selection.
Rule three.
Constantly monitor the variety renewal.
Rule four.
By purchasing new variety, so far you are growing a few copies, and occupy the main area with your tested varieties.
Rule five.
To extend the period of consumption of tomatoes, grow varieties of different ripening periods: early, medium and late and long-term. Then you will try the first in June, and the last to decorate the New Year's table.
Rule six.
Grow seedlings yourself, smaller is better, but more reliable. Once I bought luxurious seedlings of pepper in the market, but I never saw the fruits, it was sown late, and in order to be marketable, they were fed with urea.
2. What are tomato plants.
I cannot help touching on this issue, because when prescribing seeds, or especially when buying in stores, they do not always understand how to form plants.
According to the nature of growth indeterminate, determinant and semi-determinant plant types.
For indeterminate varieties "hybrids" are characterized by continuous growth of shoots, such bushes must be formed. They are high yielding, and as a rule they are written about (For greenhouses and open ground), although in the open field they yield less, and the fruits are not so significant. In determinant varieties, shoot growth is limited. The shoot ends with an inflorescence. Bush height from 30-80cm. But among the determinant varieties, 3 groups are distinguished. This is where gardeners start to get confused. If determinant is written, then they consider that it is undersized (30-50cm).
Superdeterminant.
It is precocious, the bush is compact, low. The harvest from the bush is small, the fruits are usually medium-sized, but they ripen at the end of June. "Mongolian dwarf" ripens on June 20th. There are a lot of varieties of such tomatoes.
actually determinant. They come into fruiting later than superdeterminant ones. After education 4-6 sometimes more inflorescences, the plant stops growing. The height of such plants is 60-80 cm.
Semi-determinant.
After the formation of 8-10 inflorescences, the growth of the main shoot is limited, these include "Pink Elephant", "Grandma's Secret", "Father", etc.
Varieties and hybrids of these two groups are usually high-yielding with large fruits. "Favorite holiday", "Royal gift", "Southern tan", "Monastic meal", "Mammoth", "Keg". The height of such plants is from 80 to 1m. 20cm They work well in greenhouses and protected tunnels, but they also give a good harvest in open ground.
4. Growing seedlings.
I wrote about my method of growing seedlings, but I receive questions in almost every fourth letter about growing seedlings. I will briefly introduce the method of growing seedlings, care and other activities of Stukalova Nadezhda Alekseevna.
The soil mixture for seedlings should be air and water permeable, rich in nutrients.
Such a composition; 1 hour sod land, 1 hour. leaf humus, 0.5 parts river sand or washed building, 0.5 h. peat. On a bucket of a mixture of 0.5 liters of ash. Disinfection of the soil mixture is mandatory.
If this condition for growing seedlings is not met, it may “fall” due to “ black leg". A reliable way is the action of water vapor.
At the bottom of an old bucket or pan, place a can of herring with the convex side up, after punching holes in it. You can put a metal circle with holes or a grate, or an old sieve, a colander on the fragments of bricks. Pour water into the bottom of the bucket. Pour the soil mixture onto the grate (above the water), without compacting. We put the bucket on the fire for warming up for 50 minutes. The resulting steam penetrates the entire thickness of the soil mixture, disinfecting it.
I prefer my way. I have been harvesting the land since autumn and several times during the winter I bring it home, waiting for the appearance of weeds. Then I put it out in the cold again.
4. 1. Seed preparation.
Tie the seeds of each variety separately into a piece of cloth, leaving a long tail on the tail, stick a plaster on it and write the name of the tomato variety on it.
I do not treat the seeds with anything if they are fresh and if they are grown by me. I keep the seeds for 12 hours in solution. "Epin" - 3 drops per 100g of water. There are other active substances containing growth stimulants and microelement salts (Gumix, Gibersib, etc.). But strictly follow the directions suggested on the concentration label. Then sow each variety in a separate jar, sign or number the jars according to the variety sown in them.
4. 2. Seedlings.
To grow high-quality seedlings, calculate the number of plants that you can fit on windowsills or on special devices. Each plant should have enough light.
It is dry and hot in our apartments, and tomatoes need a temperature of no more than 14-18 degrees C at night.
What is the timing for sowing? Each type of plant has its own time limit. Determine the time using the table. 
Seeds are planted to a depth of two seeds. The soil in the containers should be moist, but not waterlogged. The container must be covered with polyethylene and put in a warm place. The optimum temperature for seed germination is + 25 + 27 degrees. Seedlings appear after 3-4 days, you must not miss this moment and place in a sunny place, otherwise the shoots will stretch very quickly. Well, if each variety is sown in a separate container, you can remove from under the film those in which the seedlings have sprouted.
It is necessary to water the seedlings moderately, with settled water warmer than room temperature. It happens that on some shoots there are shells from seeds. Try to wet the “hat” and carefully remove it with the blunt side of the sewing needle.
Sow seeds with a margin so that you always have the opportunity to select the strongest, strongest plants with large cotyledon leaves. In a good soil mixture, they can not be fed before picking.
4. 3. Pick.
It is better to pick when the seedlings get stronger (both stems and roots). At this time, 3-5 true leaves will grow.
Before picking, dissolve 0.2 hours of manganese in 1 liter of water and carefully, without over-wetting, water the seedlings. It is better to dive into separate containers in such plants during transplantation, the earthen lump is not disturbed, and the roots immediately begin to work. On each container, mark the grade according to your catalog.
The soil mixture for picking can be left the same composition as was done for sowing. You can change the composition with slight deviations. But be sure to put 2-3 granules of superphosphate in each cup. Divide seedlings into low-growing and tall-growing. You need to dive them in different ways. For undersized, fill the cups with 2.3 volumes of soil mixture, make a recess in it with a pencil, lower the plant to the cotyledon leaves, carefully compact it from the sides with the same pencil.
At tall varieties seedling above. For them, we fill the glass halfway with earth, lay the stem spirally along the wall, pouring the soil mixture. Water, when picking, take the seedlings carefully by the leaves, do not break the protective hairline of the stalk. I never pinch roots. The plant does not need extra trauma. After picking, do not expose the plants to sunlight for 2-3 days.
4. 4. Seedling care.
The health of a plant, like the health of people, is laid at the beginning of life. The tomato is extremely picky about the light, arrange the cups so that you can rearrange them, swap the rows. There are two ways to maintain seedling nutrition: filling the soil mixture for the entire period of seedling growth, I use this method, but skills and experience are needed. The second method is the introduction of nutrients with irrigation during the entire period of growing seedlings.
Mostly amateur gardeners use the second method. Few people use infusions of mullein, chicken and horse droppings. The most convenient liquid complex fertilizers with micronutrients. If you do not find them, you can use the universal composition for all top dressing (1 time every 10 days), 3-4 g of nitroammophoska per 1 liter of water. It is very convenient to use completely soluble fertilizers such as kemir, solute and others (there are a lot of them now). It is good to water alternately with a weak solution of manganese and an ash solution (1 l of water, 1 st of ash), boil, stand, drain and add up to 2 l.
When feeding, moisten the clod of earth and only then feed the plants. Increase the number of dressings if the seedlings are pale, the lower leaves turn yellow. In no case do not increase the concentration of mixtures for feeding, you can burn the roots. And yet, growing without illumination, with insufficient illumination, the seedlings are drawn out. Let her loosen up a bit. Carefully lay it in a ring along the wall of the cup, sprinkle with soil. First, try on 2-3 plants, otherwise you can break the whole seedling. In no case do not water the seedlings at night, only in the morning or afternoon!
Be sure to loosen the soil in a cup, after scattering 1 tsp of ash on the surface. To protect plants from viral diseases, I spray 1 time in 7 days with skim milk (1 liter of water, 1 st of milk and 2-3 drops of iodine). 3 weeks before planting, as soon as the weather permits, the seedlings need to be hardened, first take out for 20 minutes, then for more time.
Before planting in the ground, to prevent phytophthora and brown spotting, treat the seedlings with copper oxychloride (5 g of copper oxychloride per 3 liters of water or 1% Bordeaux liquid) against fungal diseases. Dilute as recommended on the package.
5. Biological features.
Tomatoes are heat-loving plants of southern origin. They require good lighting, warmth and dry air. optimum temperature 20-25 degrees C, during the day and at night -10-12 degrees C. When low temperatures life processes are slower. At a temperature of 15 degrees C, flowering is delayed in tomatoes, and below +8 +10 degrees, growth stops and pollen does not ripen.
High temperatures(above 35 degrees C), have a negative effect on plants.
Bright all-round light, optimal day and night temperatures, contribute to the development of a good root system and the formation of a large number of flowers, pollination of flowers occurs normally. Short-term night cooling down to +5 -6 degrees C does not significantly affect the growth and ripening of fruits. In addition to temperature and light conditions, tomatoes have a great need for soil moisture. Soil moisture before fruiting - 70%, during fruiting - 75 - 80%. With a lack of water in the soil, the leaves begin to curl, photosynthesis and plant growth weaken, fertilizer is not used effectively, fruit growth stops, the yield and its quality decrease: the fruits become sick with blossom end rot, and crack after abundant watering.
Excessive watering of the soil is also impossible, since excessive moisture displaces air from the soil, and if it is lacking in the soil, root growth stops, their breathing is disturbed. Air is essential for the life of microorganisms in the soil.
To provide air to the root system, the roots of the tomatoes should be covered with a layer of loose mulch, a dark film, I cover with straw, or weeded grass.
Great importance for good development plants have air humidity. Optimal Humidity 65%, with high humidity, the pollination of flowers worsens, they begin to fall off, the plants themselves are affected by fungal diseases.
To obtain high yields of tomatoes, in addition to organic fertilizers, mineral fertilizers are needed, including macro- and microelements. Among all vegetable crops tomatoes are the most demanding in terms of digestible phosphorus, which accumulates in seeds and fruits.
In Russia, microelement fertilizers were used long before 1917.
As a potash fertilizer, ash is applied; as a mineral fertilizer, lime is applied, which destroys acidity. The use of lime and ash is also good in that they contribute to the destruction of eggs and larvae harmful insects, have a good effect on the quality of fruits and accelerate ripening.
Tomatoes are branching plants, self-pollinators. On the main shoot (depending on the variety), 7-12 leaves are formed, and on the side shoots - much less, the higher the shoot is laid, the fewer leaves on it. Therefore, when plants are formed in 2-3 stems, the upper, strongest shoots are often left.
6. Preparation of ridges.
For tomatoes, the best predecessors are perennial herbs, onions, carrots, legumes, various cabbages, green crops, cucumber, zucchini. Tomato plants cannot be planted after pepper, physalis, eggplant, potatoes. The tomato grows well on slightly acidic and neutral soils (pH 5.5-7). Wood and wood are used as neutralizing materials. vegetable ash, ground limestone, dolomite flour. The main refueling of the soil can be carried out in the spring. Under one plant, I put humus, (superphosphate 20g / m). If a mineral fertilizers no, compost the soil by adding 1.5 cups of ash to each bucket.
Depending on the size of the plot, the number of seedlings, cut the ridges 120 cm wide, the length is arbitrary, it makes sense to measure the length of the ridge with the length of the covering material. Between the ridges the passage is 50-60cm. Orientation of the ridges from north to south. It is good to frame the ridges with a board, I have slate, brick, and cover the aisles with sawdust (you can work after the rain).
7. Planting seedlings.
From when seedlings are planted on permanent place depends on the success of obtaining an early harvest. You can plant seedlings when the soil at a depth of 12-15cm warms up to + 10-15 degrees. The earlier you plant seedlings, the higher the yield, the earlier you will get ripe tomatoes, but this is if you have shelter. I wrote how to do it in the most primitive way, but proven by me and reliable, they can withstand up to -7 degrees.
Tomatoes like a lot of light, air and nutrition, and the roots are warm.
FROM north side ridges, plant a backstage of corn, tall flowers. Make furrows across the ridges at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. Fill with humus, ash, scatter 40-60 granules of superphosphate in each furrow, pour. Sort seedlings by variety. This is necessary in order to plant the lowest varieties from the medium-sized ones in your collection in the first row from the east, for example, those that reach 1m during the fruiting period. In the second, those whose height is 1m 20cm, in the third, 1m 50cm, and so on.
Place the highest 2m and more, such as "Tanka Truffles", "Astrakhan", "Sexy" and others. With this placement, all plants will be properly lit.
Withered seedlings, water at least one hour before planting. Place one plant in a checkerboard pattern in a slope in each furrow so that there are 3 leaves above the surface, the rest can be cut off. Arrange the seedlings so that the tops of the plants form even east and west rows, with distances between tops of 50-60cm. Cover the seedlings with earth removed from the furrows. Under the top, carefully place a lump of earth. Water a little, mulch the furrows. Do not confuse the varieties, make a planting diagram, where you mark the plant numbers according to your catalog. In the center from north to south, a solar trap is formed, the soil here will warm up better. Additional mulch from old sawdust and humus and ash will give extra food. Cover the middle part of the bed with black plastic wrap or an old transparent one. Such planting will allow during the whole season not to loosen, not to weed weeds. In conditions of heat and moisture, tomato roots acquire additional suction, the mass of which is located under the mulching film. Remove it 2-3 times a season, add a mulch layer and close it again.
Do not plant overgrown seedlings in deep holes, tied to a stake, it is better to plant in a slope or lying down.
Place thick wire arcs over the beds. Cover with cling film and seal firmly on all sides. If cold is approaching, additionally cover the plantings. If it's hot, the ends of the tunnels need to be opened early in the morning. Such a troublesome life until June 5-10, and then the film can be removed. It is good to cover the plantings with covering material of grade 40 or 42, and then you can not look at the site for a week. Under such shelter, seedlings will not burn or freeze.
8. Benefits of a sheltered bed.
Even more reliable is the double shelter of the ridge. Covering material is thrown in the first layer, you can attach it to the arcs wooden clothespins. The second layer - polyethylene film, so that it covers the ends, under such shelter our plants are not afraid of frost -7-8.
In August, with a sharp change in day and night temperatures, abundant dews fall. A “roof” is easily constructed over such a bed, protecting plants from dew, rain (often acidic, etc.). Old ones are driven in along the sides water pipes, arcs are inserted into the pipes, the film is stretched, you can fix it with twine, clothespins, wire.
Autumn is approaching, the main crop is harvested, but there are still many unformed fruits on the plants. Which ones to grow? Put on the black film that you spread at the beginning of planting in the middle of the ridge, armfuls of hay, straw, small branches, carefully untie the plants from stakes or trellises and lay them on a soft bedding, sprinkle with garlic infusion, “powder” with ashes. And again, as in the spring, put the arcs, cover with covering material, and on top with a film.
The benefit of a sheltered bed with such planting is great.
1. When planting, seedlings are less injured.
2. The possibility of early planting seedlings.
3. Watering and top dressing are economical. They are conducted only in the root zone.
4. No weeds.
5. No need to loosen.
6. Good conditions fruit set.
7. It is convenient to organize drip irrigation.
8. The possibility of shelter in bad weather throughout the season.
9. Obtaining additional products from the same area.
10. Possibility of shelter for growing late harvest.
9. Watering.
If you followed the recommendations for organizing the ridge and covered the middle part of the ridge with a film (the roots are located there), we water this part from a watering can, a hose with a slight pressure, the soil should not be spilled so that the roots are not exposed.
Do not rush with the first watering, water 7 days after planting. Moisture deficiency stimulates root growth. Further watering is carried out depending on the weather, in drought - after 2-3 days. Watering should be plentiful, preferably in several stages and only in the root zone. Never water over the leaves, the tomatoes can get sick. With a lack of water, plant growth stops. After the end of watering, return the film to its place.
As the plants grow, increase the watering rate. By mid-August, it should be at least one bucket per tall bush. The watering rate is proportional to the height of the plant. Don't let weeds grow.
10. Fertilizers.
Fertile soil contains the entire complex nutrients. The main elements required by plants are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K); in somewhat smaller ones - magnesium, calcium, sulfur, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Trace elements include: iron, boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc and copper. Deficiency of any of these results in visible signs of deficiency in plants.
Here is how the famous soil scientist and agrochemist V.V. Zerling, the influence of a lack or excess of nutrients in particular tomato.
Lack of nitrogen (N) causes growth retardation: the stems are thin and stiff; leaves, starting from the bottom, yellow-green, yellow-brown, many small flowers fall off; few fruits, poorly painted, urgently feed with mullein.
With a deficiency of phosphorus (P), the old leaves turn red from the bottom of the tomato, and later the whole plant. The fruits are small, underdeveloped, ripen later. Urgently carry out foliar top dressing with superphosphate. An excess of phosphorus causes a general yellowing of the leaves, reduces the intake of trace elements.
A lack of potassium (K) causes "marginal burn" of the lower leaves; fruits are weak, small with dark spots on the peel and inside the fruit! Leaves are finely wrinkled. rooted and not root top dressing potash fertilizers help to eliminate the underdevelopment of plants.
With an excess of potassium, the leaves wither and fall off, dull spots appear on them. With a deficiency of (Ca) calcium, tomato fruits have dark spots of dead tissue in the middle. The upper leaves of the plants are whitish.
The lack of magnesium (Mg) is noticeable on the leaves, the veins of the leaf remain green, and the leaf itself becomes discolored.
To avoid this, it is necessary to regularly apply magnesium sulfate to the soil every 10-15 days, in top dressing (10-20g) per 10 liters of water. With a lack of iron (Fe), the upper leaves become pale green or yellow.
Signs of a lack of molybdenum (Mo) are similar to a lack of nitrogen, the only difference is that the upper young organs get sick.
With a lack of (Zn), the leaves are small, yellowed; there are few fruits, they are small, ripen early. More often this disease is present in protected ground.
Once again about the ashes.
Black wood ash is rich in potassium and other mineral elements. Store in an airtight container. When growing tomatoes, ash is often used: when dressing the soil, for dusting plants and soil surfaces, for root and foliar dressings. Phosphorus and potassium in the ash is contained in a form readily available to plants. In addition to potassium and phosphorus, calcium in the ash contains: sulfur, iron, magnesium, boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc. For example, when applying 70g of ash per 1m3, the need of plants for boron is fully satisfied.
Ash is a good alkaline fertilizer. Ash is used to combat powdery mildew (300g of sifted ash, boiled for half an hour, the settled broth is filtered and brought to 10l), it is pollinated against gray rot 2-3 times during the summer, 10-15g per plant. With a lack of phosphorus and potassium in fruits, the formation of sugar slows down. When applying these fertilizers, the quality of fruits improves, they become sweet, brightly colored, and better stored.
Now you should know why, for some gardeners, the fruits that should be sugar at the break are completely different.
Boric fertilizers improve the taste of fruits, prevent cracking.
Magnesium fertilizers contribute to the accumulation of sugar and vitamin C. Fruits of good quality are obtained only when balanced diet for all elements.
11. Top dressing.
The growth of roots in tomatoes goes on continuously until the end of the growing season, but the growth of above-ground organs goes even more 160 times. That is why the harvest depends on top dressing. Tomatoes do not like to starve, but overfeeding affects them even worse. Big influence provides nitrogen to the plant. Nitrogen is needed for the development of green mass, for fruit formation and the pouring of tomatoes. If plants have increased growth of leaves, stems, shoots, and there are few fruits, it is necessary to exclude them from top dressing nitrogen fertilizers. Tomatoes take the most potassium out of the soil. Each gardener applies his own feeding scheme, but here is what N. Stukalova advises in her book.
The first feeding after 10 days, after planting seedlings with a solution of mullein (1:10) or chicken manure(1:20). Subsequent fertilizing is carried out, depending on the condition of the plants, every 10 days with a complete mineral fertilizer (60g of garden fertilizer mixture per 10l of water).
Before flowering, 1 liter of top dressing is applied under the plant, then 2-5 liters each. Fermented grass is used for top dressing. The most useful nettle (even dry). Ash can be used throughout the growing season, scattering in the root zone or in the form of an extract. Feeding with microelements is useful 2-3 times per season. Pound 5 tablets in a mortar, shake in a 0.5 jar, pour, stirring in a 10l bucket, consumption 1l under a bush.
Sometimes flowers from the first brushes fall off, to lose the flowers of the first brush means not to have an early harvest.
It happens that the ovaries fall off. This happens if the ovary is not fertilized or the plant lacks moisture and food - it must be urgently watered and fed. With high humidity, the flowers can also crumble. Spray with a solution boric acid(1 g per 1 liter of water). Boric acid dissolves only in hot water.
The mistake of many gardeners is that after the start of fruiting, they reduce watering, fertilizing, i.e. help the plants die. This is my mistake, as long as the plant is alive, it must be looked after as at the beginning of life.
12. Foliar top dressing - Ambulance plants.
Scientists have proven that leaves absorb nutrients in the same way as roots, but more selectively. They absorb from the tinctures those nutrients that the plant lacks, but they do not replace root dressings. Some top dressing can be carried out with mineral and organic fertilizers. The best concentration of mineral fertilizers for tomato is 0.4% (8.5 g of superphosphate, 16.5 g of potassium chloride, 15 g of urea per 10 l of water). To 10 liters of an aqueous solution of macronutrients, add 1 liter of a solution of microelements according to the norm on the labels.
Foliar top dressing superphosphate affects the setting and ripening of fruits.
It is very good to spray the plants during the flowering period with an extract of 0.5% superphosphate. You need to take 50g of superphosphate pour hot water, mix, hold for a day. For 50g take 10l hot water. Spray the tomatoes with the settled solution. It is good to spray with organic infusion using nettle, lupine, comfrey, lawn grass. Cut all components into a linen bag, place in a container, fill with water. Rotate the bag every 2 days. After a week, the tea is ready, diluted to the color of weakly brewed tea.
13. Formation of a bush.
Gardeners ask this question in almost every 4 letters. As I already wrote, tomatoes have the ability to strongly branch. From each bud located in the axil of the leaf on the main stem grows a lateral shoot - stepson. The removal of these shoots (stepchildren) is called stepchildren. Stepchildren, plants form into one, two, three stems.
With a single-stem form on the main stem, all side shoots; with two stems, also all side shoots, except for one, the strongest, growing under the first flower brush; with a three-stemmed one, they leave another strong stepson located above or below the flower brush. Stepson every week, in the morning or afternoon, so that the wounds on the plant dry out. The stump from the stepson should be left 2-3 cm so that there is no escape on the same sheet. It must be remembered that pinching accelerates the ripening of fruits, but the yield from the bushes will be lower.
I form tall ones in two stems. In addition to pinching, you need to pinch (i.e., remove the tops of the fruiting shoots) - this limits the growth of the plant, which helps to accelerate the formation and ripening of the fruit that has set. The top is cut off 3-5 cm above the second leaf above the last brush with ovaries. In June, July, plants grow 60-70mm per day, they need to be tied up, tying up a bush and brushes contributes to better illumination, which means there will be more fruits. There are a lot of ways to tie - pegs, ropes, net.
But most convenient way garters must recognize the organization of the trellis. The main thing is that the trellis is strong.
Summarizing everything written, remember:
Greenhouse cultivars in the open field can give a low yield, and vice versa, the open field cultivars do not bear fruit well in the greenhouse.
Chasing the number of varieties, you can miss the quality.
Sow varieties of different maturation periods at different, optimal times for each variety.
Don't overdo the seed preparation. Not only frozen, you will not have time to sow dry.
Do not rush to plant seedlings, the soil should warm up to +10 C. But do not tender seedlings in a greenhouse until June. Late planting of seedlings will bring great trouble and a small harvest.
Plant tomatoes in rows. With late return frosts, the beds are easier to cover from the cold.
Don't skimp on food space. Biological pattern: the thicker the plants are, the smaller the size of the fruit.
Tie up plants in time, even undersized ones. They will warm up better, come into contact with the soil less, and hurt less.
Get your plants right. When choosing a variety, you need to know under what conditions of formation - in one, two or three stems, with or without pinching, it gives the maximum yield.
The disease is easier to prevent. Sometimes it is too late to treat, the harvest is lost.
Tomatoes are better underfed than overfed. "Fatting" powerful, beautiful plants With large leaves give a "skinny" harvest
Water your tomatoes regularly, not just occasionally. Plants, like people, cannot get drunk for the future.
Tomatoes like "wet feet" (roots) and "dry clothes" (leaves).
The material was prepared by Lidia Iosifovna Ishimtseva. Using the literature of N.A. Stukalov "Golden Apples of Love". Material for growing tomatoes according to the method of I.M. Maslova. And my own experience.
You will find more detailed information on each variety in our articles.
For your convenience, we have compiled a table of "mid-ripening" tomato varieties in alphabetical order and closed this BIG spoiler table so as not to distract from reading this article.
On button click "Show" you will see alphabetical list of all mid-ripening tomato varieties in the form of a table:
Show
Ripening dates and types of tomatoes
The vegetative period or the time interval from full emergence to the beginning of ripening of mid-ripening fruits is from 111 to 125 days.
Mid-season tomato varieties can be represented by both indeterminate and determinant types:
Growing seedlings
On the eve of the planting season, when the stage of active harvesting of seedlings begins, discussions flare up regarding the time for mid-ripening tomato varieties.
Sowing tomatoes for seedlings directly depends on the ripening period of tomatoes.
Seed germination of mid-ripening tomatoes begins at temperature regime from 11 degrees, and the best temperature for growing seedlings is from 20 to 25 degrees. It is important to ensure a sufficient supply of light, because the tomato is a photophilous culture.
- Take the approximate planting time, which depends on the place where the seedlings are planted - a greenhouse or open soil;
- subtract from it best age seedlings - for mid-season varieties it is 55-60 days;
- Subtract another 5-6 days from the resulting number, which is the average duration of seed germination at a temperature of 24 to 26 degrees, resulting in an approximate date for sowing tomatoes for seedlings.
If the grown seedlings are from May 1 to May 15, you need to take the approximate date, for example, May 7, and calculate: May 7 minus 55 days and minus 5 days, and you get March 8. Therefore, it is advisable to start sowing seedlings from this day.
If seedlings of mid-ripening tomatoes will be in early June: June 3 minus 55 days and minus 5 days, then the sowing date will be approximately April 3.
Important! Too early planting threatens with the presence of overgrown seedlings, which are poorly stretched and weakened. Such seedlings do not take root well, and in the case of transplanting tall bushes, they can break.
Care and Features
Mid-season varieties of tomatoes with tall, spreading bushes should be planted rarely, on a damp fertile soil can be planted thicker.
Varieties with a compact bush are best planted according to the scheme of 47-57 plants per 10, vigorous tomatoes - 41-47 bushes per 10.
- After planting seedlings, the soil must be immediately loosened, and maintained in this state throughout the growing season, periodically loosening after rains and watering.
- In areas with high humidity nice results gives a double hilling of the bushes, which helps to improve the thermal regime of the soil and the formation of additional roots.
- 9-11 days after planting seedlings in the ground, it is necessary to make the first hilling, and 16-20 days after it, the second.
- During the growing season, mid-ripening tomatoes need to be fed, weeded as needed and watered on time. Watering is recommended during the flowering period of the first and second flower brush, before loosening the soil and after feeding with dry mineral fertilizers.
Attention! Water consumption during irrigation per bush is about 0.7-0.9 liters. Optimal time for the watering process is the second half of the day, and preferably in cloudy weather.
By taste, mid-season tomato varieties are fleshy., many varieties are high in sugar and are good for salads. In size, such tomatoes can be either giants with coarse-grained pulp, or small - the best option for canning.
Most varieties are characterized by unpretentiousness and resistance to most diseases: fusarium, tobacco mosaic virus, late blight, cladosporiosis. Fruits are characterized by good keeping quality and free portability of transportation.
Mini-rating of varieties
Mid-season varieties of tomatoes for growing in a greenhouse:
Mid-season varieties of tomatoes for growing in open ground:
The best mid-season tomato varieties:
Mid-season tomato varieties - the best option for gardeners who want to please the family high yield with impeccable palatability, and at the same time not experience difficulties in growing and caring for tomatoes.
When growing tomato seedlings in early dates the creation of a bush can be started already at seedling age. Early pinching of the apical shoot in plants in the 4 true leaf phase promotes the formation of stems. Such bushes, formed at seedling age, are more resistant to lodging. This technique is carried out on vigorous varieties. However, this method of formation leads to some delay in fruit ripening.
On each stem, the best inflorescences are left, first of all, they appeared early. The first flower brush is formed even in the seedling period above the 7-8 leaf of the main stem, and the second and subsequent - after planting the plant in a permanent place. They are formed in 2-3, less often in one leaf (it depends on the variety).
Experience shows that when forming bushes, a limited number of brushes should be left: in southern regions 6-7, in middle lane- 4-5, and in the more northern - 3-4. The rate of fruit formation and the period of their ripening depend on their number: the fewer brushes on the bush, the earlier the fruits ripen. Three are allowed to develop on the main stem (four in the south), two on the second (at favorable conditions- three) brushes. The flowering of the first brush in the same varieties can begin at -40-60-75 days.
Each subsequent brush usually blooms a week after the start of flowering of the previous one. However weather can change the course of flowering. In some years, due to the return of cold weather, the beginning of flowering is delayed for a long time, and when warm weather often bloom at the same time 4-5 brushes. Cold and rainy weather is especially dangerous for plants in the flowering phase.
With excessive air humidity, the pollen is moistened, sticks together, fertilization is difficult and the flowers fall off without setting fruit. During the period of flowering and the beginning of fruit set, low positive temperatures (below +10 °) can also cause insufficient maturation of pollen, as well as falling ovaries.
The onset of removable ripeness of fruits depends primarily on the variety, its biological characteristics. In early ripening varieties, the period from flowering to reddening of the fruit ranges from 40 to 55 days. The same variety can produce ripened fruits in the first decade of July under favorable growing conditions, and vice versa, with a lack of heat, ripening can occur at the end of August and only ultra-early varieties (Sever, Yantar, Nevsky, Ladoga).
Foliar top dressing accelerates the growth of tomato fruits. Plants at the time of flowering of the first brush are sprayed with a 0.5% extract of superphosphate, which is prepared a day before spraying. Take superphosphate (50 g), pour hot water (10 l) and mix several times. The settled solution is used.
To prevent shedding of flowers from the first brushes and not to lose early harvest fruits, it is necessary to spray the blooming flowers with a solution of boric acid at the rate of 1 g per 10 liters of water. This is done in the morning or evening in dry weather. If after spraying it rained, then top dressing is repeated.
The ripening of the formed is accelerated if the brushes with fruits are constantly illuminated by the sun. To do this, they are lifted and laid on a stem or a wooden support is placed under the brush. Some vegetable growers are trying to limit the supply of moisture and nutrients to plants from the soil so that all resources from the leaves and stem are directed to the tomato fruits.
To do this, an incision 5-6 cm long is made in the stem at a height of 10-12 cm from the soil, where a small stick, a sliver is placed, pushing the walls of the stem 1-2 cm apart. Sometimes the root system is partially violated by turning the bush to the sides or pulling it up, do pricking or injection of alcohol into the fruit. These techniques are effective only when the fruit is fully formed, when continued plant growth is not required.
There are three degrees of ripeness of tomato fruits: green, brown and full.
Green unripe fruits at normal sizes for this variety, light green, whitish (milky green maturity) and under appropriate conditions are able to reach full ripeness.
In brown (blunge) fruits a pink color appears around the stem. When cross-cut, their flesh is pink, they are edible, but are especially good for pickling or whole-fruit canning. Fruits in brown ripeness withstand transportation and often ripen in 2-4 days in a warm room, that is, they become fully ripe.
Ripe fruits have a color characteristic of this variety. They are soft, tasty, large specific gravity(ripe fruits sink in water, and unripe ones float), have mature seeds. For transportation over a long distance, they are unsuitable, less capable of long-term storage. They are used for making fresh salads and for processing into juice, pasta, mashed potatoes.
Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the shade flowering trees have long been an integral attribute of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year here begins on April 1, when magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese pass under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain types can be successfully grown even in Siberia.
We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply elementary dish for you today. This gravy is one hundred percent universal, as it will suit every side dish: vegetables, pasta, and anything. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Grab your favorite side dish (you can make this ahead of time to keep it hot), add gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.
Agriculture is one of those human activity, the successful outcome of which is not always directly proportional to the efforts made. Unfortunately, nature does not necessarily act as our ally in growing plants, and often, on the contrary, throws up new challenges. Increased reproduction of pests, abnormal heat, late return frosts, hurricane wind, drought... And one of the springs brought us another surprise - a flood.
With the coming of the season dacha works the question arises of growing strong and healthy seedlings of our favorite vegetables: cabbage, tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplant and many other crops. Along with this, the question arises - how to grow decent seedlings and in the future get from it healthy plants and decent harvest? For example, I have been growing seedlings for more than one season and protecting my garden from diseases with the help of biological preparations Alirin-B, Gamair, Gliocladin, Trichocin.
Let me confess my love today. In love with... lavender. One of the best unpretentious, evergreen and flowering shrubs which can be successfully grown in your garden. And if someone thinks that lavender is a Mediterranean or, at least, southern inhabitant, then you are mistaken. Lavender grows well and in more northern regions, even in the suburbs. But in order to grow it, you need to know some rules and features. They will be discussed in this article.
Having once tasted such an invaluable product as a pumpkin, it is already difficult to stop looking for more and more new recipes for serving it to the table. Korean pumpkin, despite its pungency and spice, has a fresh and delicate taste. After cooking, you will need to cover the salad and let it brew for at least 15 minutes. My nutmeg pumpkin is very juicy and sweet, so there is no need to crush it. If the pumpkin is of a different variety, then you can knead it with your hands so that it slightly releases the juice.
Lettuce, as the earliest and most unpretentious green crop, has always been held in high esteem by gardeners. Spring plantings most gardeners usually start by planting lettuce, parsley, and radishes. Recently, the desire for healthy eating and big choice greens in supermarkets make gardeners wonder which of these plants can be grown in their beds? In this article we will talk about the nine most interesting, in our opinion, varieties of lettuce.
Another “bonus” is always “attached” to the flowering of indoor roses - capriciousness. When they say that it is easy to grow roses in rooms, they are disingenuous. For flowering indoor roses must be created literally ideal conditions. And vigilant care, attention and response to any plant signals is the main key to success. True, no matter how capricious roses may be, growing them in a potted format can be quite successful. And attentive flower growers should not be afraid of this.
Pollock is best cooked in the form of a casserole, separating the fillet from the skin and bones. Pieces of fish are mixed with a colorful vegetable set, poured with a sauce of cheese, sour cream and eggs. This fish casserole has a presentable appearance, and its taste is a bizarre mixture of subtle nuances. Vegetables and fillets will be soaked in sour cream, the cheese will harden with a golden crust, eggs will bind all the ingredients together. Pieces of fish are abundantly sprinkled with Italian herbs, and pollock acquires an unusual piquancy.
Despite the fact that the calendar spring begins in March, you can really feel the awakening of nature only with the appearance of flowering plants in the garden. Nothing testifies to the arrival of spring as eloquently as clearings of blooming primroses. Their appearance is always a small holiday, because winter has receded, and a new garden season awaits us ahead. But apart from spring primroses, there is still something to see and admire in the garden in the month of April.
Growing rapidly and turning into wild thickets, hogweed disrupts the existing ecosystem and suppresses all other plants. Essential oils, contained in the fruits and leaves of hogweed, cause severe forms of dermatitis. At the same time, it is much more difficult to deal with it than with other common weeds. Fortunately, today a tool has appeared on the market that can rid your site of most weeds, including cow parsnip, in a short time.
Carrot happens different colors: orange, white, yellow, purple. Orange carrots are dominated by beta-carotene and lycopene, yellow due to the presence of xanthophylls (lutein); white carrots are high in fiber, while purple ones contain anthocyanin, beta and alpha carotenes. But, as a rule, gardeners choose varieties of carrots for sowing not by the color of the fruit, but by the timing of their ripening. About the best early, middle and late varieties we will tell in this article.
We recommend a fairly easy recipe for a pie with a delicious filling of chicken and potatoes. Chicken and potato open pie is a great hearty dish that is suitable for a hearty snack, it is very convenient to take a couple of pieces of this pastry on the road. The cake is baked in the oven for one hour at 180 degrees. After that, lay it out on a wooden surface, after releasing it from the mold. It is enough to slightly cool the pastries and you can start tasting.
The long-awaited spring for many indoor plants is the period of the start of active vegetation, and for the majority - the return of their decorative effect. Admiring the young leaves and emerging shoots, you should not forget that spring is also a big stress for all houseplants. Sensitive to changes in conditions and versatile, all indoor crops are faced with much brighter lighting, changes in air humidity and temperature conditions.
You can easily cook homemade Easter cake with cottage cheese and candied fruits, even without any confectionery experience behind you. You can bake Easter cake not only in a special form or in a paper mold. For the first culinary experiences (and not only), I advise you to take a small cast iron pan. Easter cake in a pan will not turn out as high as in a narrow form, but it never burns and always bakes well inside! Yeast curd dough is airy and fragrant.