Narrow ridges. How to start organic farming? Mixed planting vegetables in the garden: examples with photos and tips

Amazing garden of Igor Lyadov!!! “At the request of many of my friends, I’ll tell you how I grow vegetables. Many summer residents are already planting in this way. I’ll try to explain to you. I work, so I can only go to my summer cottage on weekends. in the bath, well, and a little work on the ground.Currently, there are several problems in horticulture: -Soil fertility is falling. grey colour. -The fall in fertility entails a decrease in harvested crops. - Application mineral fertilizers and pesticides leads to contamination of soil, water, air and food, which leads to human diseases. - Traditional agricultural technology, used by most gardeners, is very laborious. And this reduces the interest in gardening among young people. However, all these problems are quite easily solved if natural farming is used instead of traditional farming. Such agricultural technology not only preserves, it also restores soil fertility. The result is an increase in productivity. horticultural crops. Mineral fertilizers are not used, which preserves the purity of Nature and preserves human health. A number of horticultural operations in natural agricultural technology are used less frequently than in traditional ones. And some are completely missing. All this reduces the labor intensity of cultivating the land and caring for plants. In my opinion, it is more important to return to nature and forget the postulate that the soil must be stuffed with fertilizers, torn with shovels and sprinkled with pesticides. Natural farming is, first of all, gentle tillage, protecting it from temperature extremes, returning nutrients which the earth generously gave to plants. Every year in the spring, coming to our summer cottage, we sow or plant vegetables in our beds. The size of the beds is from 1.4 meters to 2 meters wide, the paths between them are from 20 cm to 40 cm maximum. It is called traditional way planting vegetables in the garden. The plant in such beds, especially in the middle, often get sick, rot, and develop poorly because of this, vegetables are small, and are not stored for a long time. But for pests, a weakened plant and good nutrition, and offspring can be postponed near it. Weeding, processing such beds is one torment. But on such a bed I saw one positive side. The outermost plants, relative to those located in the middle, looked more worthy. Larger ones are not susceptible to disease and are easy to weed, thin out, etc. I also thought about another factor. A single tree along the alleys within the city, no one feeds it, the foliage that it throws off and then they try to remove it for appearance and beauty. Although this foliage could serve as top dressing for the tree. So why does this tree exist and where does it get its food? Behind last years scientists have found that about 60% of the plant takes food from the air. It's certainly interesting. The unpredictability of our Far Eastern climate, high temperature fluctuations, night and day, arid or rainy summer, excessive precipitation towards the end of August and the beginning of September confirmed my chosen long years trial and error methods of growing vegetables. I came to the conclusion that we need to look for another way that is less time consuming, but at the same time with the ability to get more high yields. I combined two technologies. "Narrow ridges - unique technology vegetable growing for small areas. "Agricultural technology natural farming". I became convinced that it is organic matter that can reveal all the possibilities of plants, saving time and energy. Just on good compost you can see and evaluate the quality of Western and domestic varieties: most of them are created for organic soil. I am sure: we can’t get away from organic matter. That's all there is to it: learn how to compost and also arrange stationary beds - once for many years. Vegetable growing on narrow ridges was developed by J. Mitlider in the 70s of the last century and brought by the author to Russia in 1989. But blindly copying techniques and advice, even the best, will not lead to anything. There must be a creative approach to understanding the biological laws of the culture itself, and the processes that occur during its cultivation. Mitlider has one drawback (this is my opinion) when using mineral fertilizers, the taste of the fruit is unnatural. To fix this - I instead mineral dressings I use humus, ash, manure, herbal infusion, etc. (I'm a supporter organic fertilizers). I am for a clean ecological product. But do not take mineral fertilizer as a poison. Just stick to the dose. It is better to underfeed a plant than to overfeed it. What I am especially grateful to J. Mitlider for is the development of narrow beds. Although Mitlider does not recommend placing the box on narrow beds, I still knocked together a box. Nature itself told me this. In the spring, many summer cottages floods, the water does not have time to go, there is water in the aisles. We have the same problem in late August and early September - it rains day and night. Yes, and in the middle of summer it can rain for 2 - 3 days, or it can flood the entire garden in half an hour. Therefore, raising the beds 15-25 cm above the path solves this problem. The width of the ridge is 60 - 100 cm, the length is arbitrary. The gap between the beds is 60 - 80 cm. It only seems that the earth in the aisles walks uselessly. It is the passages that work, and how! The vegetable container is high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, timber, boards, stone, slate ... The beds stretch from north to south. The passages between them can be mulched with sand, sawdust, roofing felt, etc. I preferred the lawn, which I cut with a trimmer once a month. Some passages I covered with sawdust. The beauty of the garden leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful. Box - the box is filled with organic matter. Plant residues (grass, straw, foliage) are put down, then compost or manure, or we spill with infusions of herbs and the like; in upper layer earth is laid from the aisles. Thus, the box is filled. Each bed is 2 rows of vegetables, planted along the edges in a checkerboard pattern between vegetables. In this geometry, a huge reserve of productivity is hidden, it has long been noticed: the outermost plant develops almost twice as well as those in the middle - they more light and room for growth. And here - all the plants are extreme. A wide aisle is also needed in order to give them light and space. A small area of ​​organics gives more than big square soil. Anyone who has worked on narrow ridges for at least one season is convinced of the enormous possibilities of this method and simply cannot return to traditional technology. Working on the ridges, a person experiences joy not only from good harvest but also from the process of growing vegetables. The beauty of the garden, which looks more like a park, leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful. In two rows in a checkerboard pattern, I plant cabbage, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, etc. In four or three rows, I plant onions, garlic, beets, lettuces, radishes, carrots, etc. Disadvantages: Requires material costs in the first year for the construction of the beds. This tiny flaw makes the container inaccessible to most summer residents. Advantages Such a bed works for several years, one can say forever (replenish it with waste, plant residues, foliage, etc.). After digging, sow green manure. When planting, do not add compost or rotted manure into the hole. This bed itself is compost. The humus is not washed out, as the bed is fenced. According to many agronomists, 60-80% of the plant is fed from the air, so large passages play significant role in the biological process of the plant. The culture receives good light and sufficient air flow. About 30% of the plant receives food from the ground. Naturally, the consumption of organic and mineral fertilizers on a narrow bed is 2 times less compared to a standard bed. At the same time, you will get a much higher yield from a narrow bed. I have tested this for several years and it shows in my photographs. Contains a large amount of nutrients, moisture reserve: Convenient watering. No stagnant water. Does not require hilling. Does not require weeding - if the bed is mulched. It does not require digging, only loosening by 7 - 10 cm. Early planting can be done, since the beds in the spring warm up faster than usual. Narrow beds are easy to rotate. Where onions were planted last year, this year you can plant carrots or cabbage. The beds are all the same width. Yields are increased by 100% or more. Tubers, root crops are clean without visible signs of disease. Beautiful and easy to work with. Takes up minimal space, does not create dirt and mess. It is very convenient to make shelter with plastic arcs, which are sold in seed stores. We put 2 pegs on both sides of the beds and put an arc on them. The distance between the arcs is about a meter. Depending on the length of the beds you install right amount arcs. Covering material or foil can be used over the arches until the danger of frost has passed. It is this system of narrow beds that allows me to receive constantly high yields, independent of the vagaries of the weather and the conditions of the site itself.

Every gardener wants to know how to harvest high yields of vegetables. One of the methods is based on natural agricultural technology. And narrow beds have long needed to be done on the site.


Read carefully, and bring to life the experience of experienced gardeners. They are already collecting big harvests vegetable crops.

Reasons for poor harvests

Today, soil fertility is declining catastrophically. The land in the plots is gray because it becomes dense and depleted.

Fertility falls - yields decrease. And if we add to this the use of pesticides and mineral fertilizers, the picture is rather unsightly. Soil, water, air, food are contaminated, and so are the diseases of people, which are less and less curable.

But the problem can be solved quite easily if Natural Farming is applied. It will preserve and restore soil fertility.

Natural farming practices, especially minimal tillage, nutrient recovery, protection against temperature changes.

Smart garden beds

On ordinary beds, and even densely planted vegetable crops especially in the middle, they get sick and often rot. Plants develop poorly, give small fruits and are stored for a short time. It is difficult to process and weed such beds. And for pests, weak plants are food and a place where they lay offspring.

Have you ever noticed that the plants in the outer rows are much healthier than those in the middle. So you need to make narrow beds so that it is easier to process them. And if you combine two technologies - narrow beds and agricultural technology of natural farming, you can get a harvest. It's business, learn how to make your own compost, and only once arrange narrow stationary beds.

Further, instead of mineral fertilizers, which spoil the taste of the fruit, making it unnatural, use humus, grass, manure, ash. In short, organic fertilizers. At the same time, we note that, nevertheless, mineral fertilizer is not a poison, but it is good in reasonable doses.

Plants need to be fed, but not overfed.

How to arrange narrow beds

To build boxes for narrow beds, you need to maintain their width from 50 to 100 cm. We take an arbitrary length.

1. There is a gap of 60–80 cm between the beds. You should not think that the earth in the aisles is useless. No. She works. Vegetable box = this is a high bed. Its walls are made of different building materials: slate, boards, stone, brick, etc.
2. The beds should be located from north to south, and the passages should be mulched.
3. The box is filled with organic matter. Leaves, grass, straw are placed first, then manure or compost.
4. The contents of the beds should be shed with herbal infusions.
5. From above they fall asleep with earth, which is removed from the aisles. The box is full.

This is how it turns out smart garden, because only two rows of vegetables can be placed on it and only in a checkerboard pattern!

This geometry hides a huge productivity. After all, plants will receive enough light and space for development and growth. On a smart garden, they will all be extreme. Here, wide aisles help, providing space and light.

As a result, a small area of ​​organic matter will yield much more than a large area of ​​soil.

With narrow beds, the garden becomes well-groomed and beautiful. Pleasing to the eye and planted vegetables that are not clogged with weeds.

Planting vegetables in narrow beds

On narrow beds, vegetables are planted as follows:

• in 2 glad, observing the staggered order - cabbage, peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, etc.
• in 4 or 3 rows, observing a checkerboard pattern - garlic, onions, beets, various salads, carrots, radishes, etc.

There are disadvantages of the method - in the first year, material costs for the construction of narrow beds. There are also advantages - a smart garden bed will work for many years, bringing high yields.

Caring for narrow beds

They require constant filling with waste, foliage, grass, plant residues. After harvesting vegetables, it is advisable to sow the beds. When seedlings are planted in the holes, rotted manure or compost is not introduced into them. The bed is the compost.

Fences will not allow to be washed out by humus. Thanks to the large aisles, vegetable crops receive enough air and light. The beds are easy to water and the water does not stagnate.

Less fertilizer is used, both organic and mineral. If the bed is mulched, then hilling and weeding will disappear.

Narrow beds are not dug up, but only loosened to a depth of 7 to 10 cm. In the spring, they warm up faster, so they can be planted earlier. Crop rotation is also convenient: onions grew last year, and carrots and cabbages are sown this year. Tubers and roots of vegetables are clean and without signs of disease.

It is convenient to set arcs above the beds. They are sold in specialized gardening stores. It is only necessary to drive in two pegs on both sides at a distance of 1 m and put on arcs. So, they do along the entire length of the box. You can cover with foil from frost.

The best top dressing for smart beds

These top dressings will help to simply, cheaply and practically restore soil fertility and increase yields.

Starter culture for organic infusions

In a barrel of 200 liters put:

• herbal or wood ash - 1 shovel;
• litter or manure - half a bucket;
• leaf litter or rotten straw - one bucket;
• garden soil or compost, or humus - 1 shovel;
• sand - 1 shovel;
• curdled milk or whey - 1 l;
• mash - 3 l.

Mash recipe

Taken not chlorinated warm water- 3 l and sugar is added to it - 5 tbsp. spoons and yeast - 1 pinch.

Two or three days should wander and be added to the tank with top dressing. The mash is kept in the refrigerator until it is used so that it does not turn sour.

How to prepare feed

1. In the tank, everything is infused for a week and periodically mixed. The infusion is diluted exactly twice.
2. In a barrel of 200 liters, a weed is laid on 2/3 of the grass, ash is added - 2 shovels. Fill with water and cover with foil. Two weeks insist and breed 1:10.
3. A 200-liter barrel is filled with fresh manure by a third and filled with water. After two weeks, apply, diluting 1:10.
4. Put in a barrel chicken manure a third and fill with water. After two weeks, dilute 1:20.

Pro100ogorod is always ready to share experience and knowledge.

Narrow ridges (aka the Mitlider method) on 8 acres of summer cottages, based on my experience, are not applicable to all types of grown vegetables. I applied such narrow beds in the country to potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage (except kohlrabi), carrots, onions, corn, garlic and beets. Cucumbers are within the scope of applying this method of cultivation to them in the range of "no" rather than "yes". And peppers and eggplants do not react at all to narrow ridges. The only plus from the method regarding cucumbers, peppers and eggplants is their top dressing with a Mitlider mixture 3-4 times per season and the construction of a certain type of greenhouse that allows the plants to grow well to warm days and protect them from the northern winds in summer.

Planting in narrow beds according to Mitlider, with photo

Narrow ridges, as our contribution to vegetable growing on 0.8 summer cottages, which are involved in our potato cultivation. We dig out: in a bad year 5 bags of potatoes, in a good year - 7 bags, not taking into account the "little things" from 5 cm in diameter and below, which goes into the compost (a bag is 4 twelve-liter buckets). We plant potatoes in the so-called "zigzag" on both sides of a narrow ridge.

Distance between holes on narrow ridges - thirty to thirty five centimeters. In the same way we plant both corn and cabbage. The output for tomatoes is as follows: depending on the number of bushes, which we regularly reduce, giving land for flowers, we get the following for the last years: 2008 - 90 bushes - 21 buckets; 2009 - 80 bushes - 16 buckets; 2010 - 60 bushes - 14 buckets; 2011 - 50 bushes - 16 buckets.

Having made and tested such beds for several seasons, it is easy to see that the yield also depends on the weather. Still, growing vegetables in the country, all this is largely dependent on the climate. Planting a tomato is carried out according to the following scheme: in one row with the distance between the roots of the same thirty to thirty-five centimeters.

As for cabbage, carrots, onions, garlic, corn and beets, it is difficult to ascertain the harvest by buckets. We can only say that, using narrow ridges on vegetables, the garden will delight you. excellent harvest!

When growing garlic, onions, carrots, beets, we plant on both sides of the garden at a distance of about ten centimeters between the seeds. For cucumbers, this distance increases to twenty-five centimeters, moreover, we plant them in one line, that is, on one of the sides.

One a little advice: it is very convenient to prepare a marker for planting vegetables on narrow ridges by stuffing a rail of a given length onto a long handle. Make several such markers, for all lengths of the distances between the holes. We have three. Without troubling myself at all, without burdening my back, I quickly pass the surface along the freshly prepared narrow ridge like a compass, determining the place for planting seeds or seedlings with the ends of the plank. Convenient and fast.

For Mitlider mixtures, it makes no sense to give any description, since there are not only two mixtures, but also more than a dozen tables for choosing the optimal mixture for each soil and the optimal amount for each mineral fertilizer.

It is better, of course, to buy a book in a store and take a chance on what happens. And what will turn out great - we answer.

With this article, I open not only a new section "", but the entire site. Wish me success!

O.A. Telepov, a potato grower, shares his experience.

In July of this year, a visiting, “field” seminar of the Omsk club of potato growers took place at my site.

After inspecting the site and having a long conversation about my technologies and experiences, one of the authoritative members of the club asks the question: “Since you are using the Mittlider system for dividing the garden into narrow beds, then why do you ignore the recommendations to make wide aisles?”

I show everyone to my garden: “Look, the plants do not interfere with each other ...” It turns out - as if brushed aside ...

I was not too lazy to answer, everyone was just already tired - three hours in the sun! This is not the first time such a question has been asked, and certainly not the last.

Why did the aisles make the width equal to the width of the beds - 50 cm, and not more? Yes, just out of greed. Let's count. Harvest winter garlic this year is good - 3.2 kg per square meter of beds. This fact was easy to establish: the weight of all the heads of garlic was divided by the area of ​​​​the garden. Most often they think so. But there is trickery in this. Why do we not take into account the area of ​​the tracks when we calculate the yield?

3.2 kg per square meter of beds does not mean at all that the harvest per hundred square meters is 320 kg! My weaving is 100 meters of a bed (50 cm wide) plus 100 meters of a track (the same width). It really turns out that the yield from a given hundred square meters is the yield from 50 square meters (100 meters multiplied by 0.5 meters) of the ridge - 160 kg. In one domestic cartoon, the hero exclaims: “But in parrots, I’m much longer!” So I can, without lying at all, say that this year my garlic harvest amounted to 320 kg per hundred square meters of the ridge. But my "accounting" records after the sale of garlic on the market say something completely different - 160 kg were sold. The yield turned out to be “in monkeys”!

Now let's take a system of narrow ridges with wide, meter-long, row-spacings. There are no longer 50, but 33 on a hundred square meters of the plot square meters ridges, which means that from a hundred we get only 106 kg of the same garlic. The harvest is already “in baby elephants”, with the same boa constrictor. Facts are stubborn things.

Adherents of narrow ridges with wide passages claim that according to wide aisles more comfortable to walk. I completely agree with this! Moreover, it would be nice to have passages of 2.5 meters. Then it would be possible to ride on them on a walk-behind tractor or a car. I'm not being ironic at all. It would be really convenient: I drove up with a trailer to the place, unloaded the organics; straight from the garden, he put the crop into the trailer ... But, unfortunately, one has to be guided not only by convenience. There is an old anecdote about the "new Russian", which was bought by "Zaporozhets". Friends are surprised: “Why do you need Zaporozhets? You have a chic jeep. He calmly replies that, they say, it is inconvenient to drive a jeep along the corridors of his new house.

Our limited areas in most cases require the use of every piece of land. Everything that has been said above is about the economy, so to speak. But it is important to consider other factors, the main of which is the place under the sun for each plant. One of the Omsk newspapers literally said the following about narrow paths in my area: “In principle, this is nonsense. Many experts argue that in this case there is not enough sunlight for photosynthesis. But my plants do not crowd each other, but just close the tops in the phase of their maximum development, despite the opinion of many experts.

It turns out that the experts are wrong? In no case. But you can cheat and get around some problems. The first thing to do is to place the beds from north to south. So the illumination of all crops will become much better. I, thinking over the placement of cultures on next year, I try to take into account not only the requirement of crop rotation (bed rotation), but also the size of the vegetative mass of plants located on neighboring beds.

For example, if you place narrow beds with zucchini and cabbage next to each other, then they will clearly obscure each other. I have carrots growing next to cabbage. The tops of carrots grow mainly upwards, and therefore most of the area of ​​​​the path goes to cabbage, and carrots do not suffer either. There are many such combinations if you look closely at the plants.

Potatoes do not fit into this principle. If you plant it not in a continuous array, but place it on the beds mixed with other crops, then you need to take into account that its stems lie down under their own weight. And if we take into account that in some varieties these stems reach 1.5 meters in length, it turns out that they will block not only my narrow paths, but also neighboring beds.

But we are solving this issue. In reality, everything happens like this. Beds with potatoes alternate with family bow or winter garlic. At the beginning of summer, onions and garlic grow intensively, and potatoes are only gaining strength. In early August, it becomes crowded with potatoes. But at this time, onions and garlic are already ripening, we remove them. And the potato rows are placed after two meters. They have more than enough space. Thus, plants are not deprived of light, and important condition done - there is no empty land on which the sun's rays fall.

In August, on my site with a wheelbarrow, you can only drive along the main paths located across the ridges, they are wide - 1-1.2 meters. It is possible to walk along the aisles between the beds, but it is better to do it carefully. But in August there is no need for frequent walks between the ridges. There are almost no weeds, loosening and watering are not needed.
I do not urge everyone to do in my opinion, to each his own. My principle of laying out a garden is one of the options, and you choose.

Oleg Telepov, gardener, member of the Omsk club of potato growers

At the request of many of my friends, I will tell you how I grow vegetables.

I work, so I can only go to the summer cottage on weekends. At the same time, you need to relax after a working week, eat barbecue, take a steam bath, and, well, work a little on the ground. Currently, there are several problems in horticulture: soil fertility is declining. The earth becomes dense, depleted and gray in color. The fall in fertility entails a decrease in harvested crops.

The use of mineral fertilizers and pesticides leads to contamination of soil, water, air and food, which leads to human diseases. Traditional agricultural practices used by most gardeners are very labor intensive. And this reduces the interest in gardening among young people.

However, all these problems are quite easily solved if natural farming is used instead of traditional farming. Such agricultural technology not only preserves, it also restores soil fertility. The result is an increase in the yield of horticultural crops. Mineral fertilizers are not used, which preserves the purity of Nature and preserves human health. A number of horticultural operations in natural agricultural technology are used less frequently than in traditional ones. And some are completely missing. All this reduces the labor intensity of cultivating the land and caring for plants.

In my opinion, it is more important to return to nature and forget the postulate that the soil must be stuffed with fertilizers, torn with shovels and sprinkled with pesticides. Natural farming is, first of all, gentle tillage, protecting it from temperature changes, returning nutrients that the earth has generously given to plants.

Every year in the spring, coming to our summer cottage, we sow or plant vegetables in our beds. The size of the beds is from 1.4 meters to 2 meters wide, the paths between them are from 20 cm to 40 cm maximum. This is called the traditional way of planting vegetables in the garden. The plant in such beds, especially in the middle, often get sick, rot, and develop poorly from this, vegetables are small, and are not stored for a long time. But for pests, a weakened plant and good nutrition, and offspring can be postponed near it. Weeding, processing such beds is one torment.

But on such a bed, I saw one positive side. The outermost plants, relative to those located in the middle, looked more worthy. Larger ones are not susceptible to disease and are easy to weed, thin out, etc.

I also thought about another factor. A single tree along the alleys within the city, no one feeds it, the foliage that it throws off, and then they try to remove it for appearance and beauty. Although this foliage could serve as top dressing for the tree. So why does this tree exist and where does it get its food? In recent years, scientists have found that about 60% of the plant takes food from the air. It's certainly interesting.

The unpredictability of our Far Eastern climate, high temperature fluctuations, night and day, dry or rainy summers, excessive precipitation by the end of August and the beginning of September confirmed the methods of growing vegetables that I had chosen over many years of trial and error. I came to the conclusion that we need to look for another way that is less time consuming, but at the same time with the possibility of obtaining higher yields. I combined two technologies.

1. "Narrow ridges - a unique vegetable growing technology for small areas."
2. "Agrotechnics of natural farming".

I became convinced that it is organic matter that can reveal all the possibilities of plants, saving time and energy. Only on good compost can one see and appreciate the quality of Western and domestic varieties: most of them are created for organic soil. I am sure: we can’t get away from organic matter. That's all there is to it: learn how to compost and also arrange stationary beds - once for many years.

Vegetable growing on narrow ridges was developed by J. Mitlider in the 70s of the last century and brought by the author to Russia in 1989.

But blindly copying techniques and advice, even the best, will not lead to anything. There must be a creative approach to understanding the biological laws of the culture itself, and the processes that occur during its cultivation. Mitlider has one drawback (this is my opinion) when using mineral fertilizers, the taste of the fruit is unnatural. To fix this, instead of mineral supplements, I use humus, ash, manure, herbal infusion, etc. (I am a supporter of organic fertilizers). I am for a clean ecological product.

But do not take mineral fertilizer as a poison. Just stick to the dose. It is better to underfeed a plant than to overfeed it.

What I am especially grateful to J. Mitlider for is the development of narrow beds. Although Mitlider does not recommend putting the box on narrow beds, I still knocked together the boxes. Nature itself told me this. In the spring, many suburban areas are flooded, the water does not have time to drain, there is water in the aisles. We have the same problem in late August and early September - it rains day and night. Yes, and in the middle of summer it can rain for 2 - 3 days, or it can flood the entire garden in half an hour.

Therefore, raising the beds 15-25 cm above the path solves this problem. The width of the ridge is 60 - 100 cm, the length is arbitrary. The gap between the beds is 60 - 80 cm. It just seems that the earth in the aisles walks uselessly. It is the passages that work, and how!

A vegetable container is a high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, timber, boards, stone, slate ... The beds stretch from north to south. The passages between them can be mulched with sand, sawdust, roofing felt, etc. I preferred the lawn, which I cut with a trimmer once a month. Some passages I covered with sawdust. The beauty of the garden leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.

Box - the box is filled with organic matter. Plant residues (grass, straw, foliage) are put down, then compost or manure, or we spill with infusions of herbs and the like; the earth from the passages is placed in the upper layer. Thus the box is filled.

Each bed is 2 rows of vegetables, planted along the edges in a checkerboard pattern between vegetables. In this geometry, a huge reserve of productivity is hidden, it has long been noticed: the outermost plant develops almost twice as well as those in the middle - they have much more light and space for growth. And here - all the plants are extreme. A wide aisle is also needed in order to give them light and space. A small area of ​​organic matter yields more than a large area of ​​soil. Anyone who has worked on narrow ridges for at least one season is convinced of the enormous possibilities of this method and simply cannot return to traditional technology. Working on the ridges, a person experiences joy not only from a good harvest, but also from the very process of growing vegetables.

The beauty of the garden, which looks more like a park, leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.

In two rows in a checkerboard pattern, I plant cabbage, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, etc.
In four or three rows, I plant onions, garlic, beets, lettuces, radishes, carrots, etc.
Disadvantages Requires material costs in the first year for the construction of the beds. This tiny flaw makes the container inaccessible to most summer residents.

Such a bed has been working for several years, one might say forever (replenish it with waste, plant debris, foliage, etc.). After digging, sow green manure. When planting, do not add compost or rotted manure into the hole. This bed itself is compost.

The humus is not washed out, as the bed is fenced. According to many agronomists, 60 - 80% of the plant gets its nutrition from the air, so large passages play a significant role in the biological process of the plant. The culture receives good light and sufficient air flow.

About 30% of the plant receives food from the ground. Naturally, the consumption of organic and mineral fertilizers on a narrow bed is 2 times less compared to a standard bed. At the same time, you will get a much higher yield from a narrow bed. I have tested this for several years and it shows in my photographs.
Contains a large amount of nutrients, a supply of moisture.

Convenient watering.
No stagnant water.
Does not require hilling.
Does not require weeding - if the bed is mulched.
Does not require digging, only loosening by 7 - 10 cm.
Can be produced early landing, since the beds in the spring warm up faster than usual.
Narrow beds are easy to rotate. Where onions were planted last year, this year you can plant carrots or cabbage. The beds are all the same width.
Yields are increased by 100% or more.
Tubers, root crops are clean without visible signs of disease.
Beautiful and easy to work with.
Takes up minimal space, does not create dirt and mess.

It is very convenient to make shelter with plastic arcs, which are sold in seed stores. We put 2 pegs on both sides of the beds and put an arc on them. The distance between the arcs is about a meter. Depending on the length of the beds, you set the desired number of arcs. Covering material or foil can be used over the arches until the danger of frost has passed.

This system of narrow beds allows me to get consistently high yields, regardless of the vagaries of the weather and the conditions of the site itself.

Really great? And this is even if we take into account that Igor lives in the Khabarovsk Territory, in Komsomolsk-on-Amur!
And they tell us the zone of risky farming, the zone of risky farming :))

Creation of a bed-box.

At the request of many of my friends, I will tell you how I make a garden bed. A vegetable container is a high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, timber, boards, stone, slate. The beds stretch from north to south.

In the photo you will see a bed made of logs. The logs remained after the dismantling of the houses, they were not taken into construction, since the core had rotted, but it will do for the garden.

We prepare a flat area.

We firmly lay the logs in the ground, you can even deepen it a little. Width from 80 - 120 cm, it all depends on climatic conditions the hotter, the wider the bed.

The length is arbitrary.

We knock the logs together with nails or screws.

I put cardboard at the bottom so that a perennial weed does not develop ...

... as well as pests of Khrushchev, wireworm, etc.

We lay down coarse plant residues of corn, sunflower, etc.

Yes, it needs to be painted or whitewashed. Now selling paint water based for facades. This is so that the sun does not heat the earth and insects will gnaw less, and most importantly, the beauty of the garden.

Then I lay the plant residues of other crops - carrots, cabbage, potato, tomato tops, etc. Whether they are diseased or not. Effective microorganisms will process all sores. Do not plant perennial weed. I don't use Baikal and the like.

Igor Lyadov uses 4 types of dressing tinctures

1. I believe that every farmer can independently prepare microbial preparations for himself, almost as diverse in composition as the EM crops sold, but from his own, local, climate and soil-adapted microbes, which will be ecologically more intelligent and practical.

We offer practical, simple and cheap way restore soil fertility and increase plant productivity. Given that the main components of EO are yeast and lactic acid bacteria, which are already enough in the soil and around us, we suggest using ordinary sugar-yeast mash as a starter for organic infusions.

The infusion is being prepared. In a 200-liter container (barrel) is placed:
- a shovel of wood or grass ash;
- half a bucket of manure and