How to save onion crops in rainy summer. How to keep onions from rotting? Onion rescue in rainy summer

With an unsuccessful summer, the bow behaves as follows. When harvesting, there are no visible signs of rot or fungal diseases on root crops. It is especially difficult to see the decomposition process in the neck of the onion. Having collected and dried the crop, gardeners send it for storage. However, after about a month, the active process of decay begins. The vegetable is covered with gray mycelium, becomes soft and loose, black dots appear. The cut shows that the layers are interspersed, healthy with sick brown, fetid smelling. All these signs point to the most common onion diseases that affect the plant in a damp, rainy summer.

Of all the onion diseases, the most dangerous ones are distinguished, which can ruin the entire crop in a fairly short time:

• Fusarium
• bacterial rot
• Neck rot

We observe signs of precisely these ailments at the stage of onion storage. Fusarium and bacterial rot can be calculated already at harvest - soft onion, black or brown spots. Neck rot appears late. The disease develops slowly, you can see the result of the action of the fungus only after a month or two.

How to prevent onion rot?

This can only be done at planting and at the growing stage. Of course, it is impossible to escape from a rainy summer, but it is possible to minimize the risks. To do this, when planting, agronomists are advised to take some precautions. With their help, it will be possible to save the onion from rot in a damp summer. It is better to plant sevok in shallow trenches, the bottom of which is lined with a layer of coarse sand. So moisture will not linger for a long time, waterlogging of the beds can be avoided. In rainy summers, it is advisable to sprinkle the beds with onions every two weeks. wood ash. All these simple methods will help protect the bulbs from damage by rot.

Harvesting is also important. Agronomists recommend not pulling the onion, but digging it up in order to avoid the slightest injury to the fetus. After harvesting, the vegetable is thoroughly dried in the open air. It is advisable to leave it here in the garden for one to two weeks. However, the weather does not always allow you to leave onions on the ridge. Therefore, remove it under a canopy, where air circulates freely. The onion is ready for storage when the neck is closed. The feather is cut at a distance of 5 cm from the bulb. You may not cut it. Braids are often woven from a bow and a bundle is hung from the ceiling or on the walls. So it is stored better than in boxes. Before putting the vegetable in wooden containers or baskets, carefully sort the bulbs. Discard spoiled or soft to the touch. Send only strong, healthy bulbs for storage. Onion should be stored at 18°-25° in the room, and 0°-2° in the basement. An important condition storage is considered humidity, it should be at least 50%. Too dry air or vice versa, too humid, will contribute to the rapid deterioration of the onion. Crates with crops should be kept in a dark, well-ventilated place. Do not store onions near radiators or a stove.

Important nuances of landing

Before planting, many gardeners disinfect seed, sevok, in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This measure will also prevent the appearance of rot during the development of the plant. Do not forget about the rules of crop rotation. Onions are best planted after potatoes, cabbage or cucumbers. He must return to his former place in the third year.

If it is not possible to comply with this rule, plant green manure after collecting onions. So the earth will be ready to receive the same culture. In order for the larvae onion fly did not spoil the crop, process the root crop brine. Dilute a glass of salt in a bucket of water and pour this mixture over the onion bed. The procedure is carried out two or three times per season.

Onions will keep well if the variety is selected correctly. There are some types of vegetables that, in principle, are not intended for long storage. In our region, varieties such as Stuttgarter Riesen (early ripe, large), Centurion and Oreon have proven themselves well. The latter differs in that it ripens early and is stored for a long time. Fruit weight reaches 200g. The variety "Red Baron" is grown by those who love red onions. He contains a large number of vitamin C and has a long shelf life. Do not forget that sweet varieties of onions are best stored at a low temperature of -0 °, -2 °. So he will keep all his taste qualities throughout the entire storage period.

Garlic

Its storage can also bring a lot of trouble. Garlic is best stored with onions, vegetables coexist perfectly with each other and require the same storage conditions. But there are also nuances. Many people recommend storing garlic in the basement rather than at home. The vegetable does not like dry air, which is very often the case in heating season. Garlic cloves dry out quickly. Optimal conditions storage - humidity 50%-70%, air temperature 0°, -2°. The room must be clean and well ventilated. Garlic can be braided and hung from the ceiling or on the walls in the cellar.

Gardeners, as a rule, do not grow garlic in large quantities. Therefore, they often store it at home in a basket or a small box. Many resort to non-standard methods storage, for example, in salt. A layer of salt 2–3 cm high is lined at the bottom of the basket or box. Garlic or onion is tightly spread on it. This method of storage is appropriate when vegetables grew in a damp, rainy summer. Salt absorbs excess moisture and garlic and onions do not rot. If the summer was normal, salt is not needed. Otherwise, the vegetables will dry out quickly.

Following simple advice, you can store onions and garlic until the next harvest. Most vegetables can be saved from rot and drying out. Do not forget that the keeping quality of the crop depends on the cultivation technique, variety and proper preparation vegetables for storage.

Garlic is the most popular vegetable that can be found on absolutely every suburban area. It is in demand not only among gardeners, but also among gourmets. Only he can complement the dish with spicy notes. But before you harvest, you should properly and responsibly treat planting and growing. Only at first glance, the vegetable seems harmless and unpretentious. In fact, the opposite is true. Let's analyze the common question of why garlic rots in the garden. Let's find out why this happens and how you can avoid the problem.

Why rot

The problem can arise due to many factors. This includes:

• low-quality planting material;
• poorly chosen landing site;
• constantly moist soil;
• unfavorable neighborhood with some vegetable crops;
• the garlic was originally planted incorrectly.

And this is only part of the main reasons that answer the question of why garlic rots in the garden. Let's consider each reason separately.

How to choose seed

For such a responsible matter, peeled cloves are taken. It is best if you choose varietal garlic for planting. The modern assortment can provide more than 20 types of this beautiful vegetable. Every year the list of seeds is only replenished. You can buy them at any store where you buy other vegetables.

Remember that varietal garlic is difficult to find in the store. And no one can guarantee that you are getting exactly what you are looking for. It is better to take garlic from friends or neighbors in the country. In extreme cases, you can go to the market, taking with you a connoisseur who will help you make the right choice. If you still decide to buy garlic on your own, then look at its external qualities:

1. On the cloves there should be no traces of rot and stains from pests.
2. It is not recommended to plant garlic of imported origin in our latitudes. He will not give a good harvest.
3. Cracks and cuts on the teeth are not allowed.
4. Look carefully at the bottom. If there are small cracks on it, then this indicates that the garlic was attacked by a tick.
5. Before planting, check that protective scales are preserved on all cloves.

You will need the same tips for choosing a bow. It is chosen in the same way. If the seed was chosen initially of poor quality, then you should not be surprised why onions and garlic rot in the garden.

Where to plant

The choice of a landing site should be approached responsibly. vegetable likes fertile soil. It will be better if cucumbers, beans, peas or zucchini grew on it. It is not recommended to plant garlic after onions and potatoes. If your land is infertile, then this can be corrected with the following remedies:

• superphosphate;
• potassium sulfate;
• humus;
• urea.

The more fertile your land, the more harvest can be collected from one square meter of the garden. You need to be prepared for the fact that the garlic may begin to deteriorate.

7 main reasons

To find out why garlic rots in the garden, you need to understand why this can happen. We'll cover seven top reasons:

Reason 1. Lack of nitrogen. The lack of this substance in the soil does not allow the plant to develop and grow well.

Reason 2. Strong drying of the topsoil. After prolonged rains and watering, crusts form that prevent oxygen from reaching the garlic roots. Because of this, many gardeners have a question why garlic rots in the garden. What to do, you probably already guessed: it is worth loosening the soil after each watering.

Reason 3. Too acidic soil. If garlic is planted on such soil, then it will not only rot ‒ it will start to turn yellow. In this case, a whole range of procedures is carried out, which is aimed at deoxidizing the soil.

Reason 4. On the initial stage vegetable growth is plentiful and often watering.

Reason 5. Pests. If insects have already chosen your garlic, then be prepared for yellowing of the leaves. The scariest of them ‒ they are nematodes. First, they infect the fruits, and then move on to the stems and leaves.

Reason 6. Diseases contribute to the formation of rot and yellowness. The most common disease is called fusarium.

Reason 7. At the final stage of garlic growth, yellowing of the leaves may occur. This is considered the safest reason. All the juices from the leaves go into the development and growth of the head of garlic.

We examined why garlic rots in the garden. How to fight and care for the plant, we will tell further.

Save garlic

To prevent all unpleasant consequences, garlic must be carefully looked after. This complex includes:

1. Bed warming if you plant a vegetable before winter.
2. In spring and summer, do not forget to feed the garlic. To do this, use ammofoska or nitrophoska in the amount of 20 grams for each square meter beds.
3. Loosen and weed the soil from weeds.
4. It is worth removing the arrows in time. They do it in June.
5. You need to harvest a ripe crop when the leaves and stem are completely dry and lay down.
6. After you have dug up a vegetable from the garden, it must be dried.
7. Garlic is stored in a braided form. Many people use such garlic as an edible decoration of the kitchen.

Now that we know why garlic turns yellow and rots in the garden, we can adjust its care.

Finally

Do not forget that garlic requires constant attention and care. As soon as you forget about him, he immediately starts to hurt. In order not to return to the question of why garlic rots in the garden, read the reasons and prevent them in advance before the situation worsens.

The past season was remembered for the abundance of precipitation, and not so much in quantity, but in time. All the time something was dripping and drizzling, making it impossible to work in the garden.

In addition, the spring was long and cold, and there was little heat in the summer. The second half of summer and autumn were especially rainy. In our area, until June 9, there were night frosts or something slightly above 0 0С, the earth warmed up very slowly after the winter. Therefore, everything had to be planted in the ground late compared to previous years.

In such a climate, all vegetable plants divided into two camps: some of the plants felt very uncomfortable - they did not grow well and got sick a lot, and there was also a group that liked this kind of weather. If you look in more detail, then on my hundredths it turned out the following.

Soil in the garden

The soil in my garden is sandy, the water does not linger in it, so frequent rains were very helpful. If in ordinary years the plants suffered from a lack of moisture, then this summer the heavens constantly supplied them with the most delicious water - rain. Excess moisture quickly left the soil, and the roots of all plants had enough air. Also, there was no heat.

Potatoes love this kind of weather. This year it has grown even, moderately large, almost without a trifle. And of course all in the scab. And only in those areas of the soil where no vegetables had grown at all before, the potatoes turned out to be clean, without the slightest sign of scab. The variety "Fairy Tale" was especially successful. And all this despite the fact that due to a very cold spring, even late-planted potatoes did not want to sprout for a long time.

Beets and carrots

I sowed my favorite beet variety "F1 Pablo". At the beginning of summer, she lacked warmth, she rose for a long time. Yes and sunlight it wasn't enough for her. Therefore, all summer it grew slowly, thoroughly gaining anthocyanins and sugar. Such sweet, juicy, tender and brightly colored beets have not been in my garden for a long time.

The same with carrots. Carrots do not require as much heat as beets. So it grew quickly. This year I sowed one variety - an early ripening hybrid "F1 Yaya". This variety with small tops gives rather large root crops - even, with a rounded end and a thin funny tail. Since the variety is early ripening, the roots ripened already in mid-August. But I removed them only in mid-September, because I know that the most active growth carrot starts in the fall. For my early variety late harvesting was a mistake, because the root crops began to grow new tops and new roots, i.e. the second wave of vegetation began. A small part of the root crops even cracked. But, in general, the carrot turned out bright orange color and very sweet, delicate and fragrant.

And sowed beets and carrots this year in mid-May. Since the seedlings were very poor due to the cold, we had to sow at the end of May.

Cabbage

Indispensable inhabitants of my garden are broccoli and cauliflower. This year I sowed hybrids "F1 Fiesta" and color "F1 Malimba". These vegetables love moisture. They were almost not bothered by all sorts of caterpillars, because in the rains their parents did not really fly, but snails were very interested in tasty leaves. Since I planted cabbage in small quantities, I was able to catch all the pests without any problems. As a result, grew these cabbages are excellent. By mid-July, huge heads of cauliflower had grown - snow-white, dense, clean and, of course, very tasty. I planted them in 2 terms, and therefore they pleased from the first decade of July to mid-September.

Broccoli also grew without problems. She sowed the seeds, like the color one, on April 15 for seedlings. The first harvest was in mid-July. After the main inflorescence was eaten, the lateral inflorescences grew on the plants for a long time and actively, and therefore the last broccoli soup was cooked in mid-November, when the last frozen heads were removed from the plant.

The Giant kohlrabi grew very tender and juicy this year, despite the fact that snails very willingly ate the leaves. It is still kept. But the Savoy cabbage did not work out. In previous years, I was pleased with the amazing heads of Savoy cabbage "F1 Ovasa". Slugs and snails weren't tracked this year because they slyly hid in the folds. tender leaves. These creatures have gnawed through the young growing heads to the center, and they have rotted. Such a number of snails appeared in our garden for the first time. And the slugs ate to incredible sizes.

Vegetable is not capricious, special care does not require. That is why it grew calmly and became much prettier at the end of summer, brightly painting the petioles in orange color, when the sun stopped even occasionally appearing. The snails were interested in chard leaves, but to a much lesser extent than cabbages.

petiole celery

Sort "Pascal". Like tuberous celery, it loves moisture very much. He was lucky this year, so he grew up without frills. The petioles turned out juicy, not rough. Vinaigrette was decorated in marinated form, vegetable stew was fried.

Shallot

This year I planted 3 varieties of shallots, I don’t know the names of the varieties. Mostly local varieties. In early August, i.e. earlier than usual, it is already ripe. Onions grew medium-sized, not very productive. Despite frequent rains, I managed to dig it out in dry weather, dried it quickly and well. Therefore, it turned out healthy, without rot. Shallots are very good fried in the form of whole heads.

Winter garlic

No luck for those gardeners who have heavy soil and old planting material. They had a lot of rotten garlic. I used, as usual, rejuvenated planting material, planted in the soil, where there was no underdecomposed organic matter. Therefore, I did not have to dig up the garlic ahead of time, saving it from rot. I dug even later than the due date, because due to the lack of sunlight, it slowly gained sharpness. But, in the end, it acquired a very rich vigorous taste.

cucumbers

Grown, as I usually do, in a barrel. This year, the varieties used the old ones - "Muromsky" and "F1Konny", which delight me with the harvest every year. The "Connie" lashes were shorter than in warm years, and fruits, respectively, was less. In addition, the first flowers did not set fruits, apparently from dampness. Even at Muromsky, the fruits did not set for a long time - there were no bees, and what I pollinated with a brush did not fertilize. But the harvest was very stretched - until mid-October I shot greens.

Sowed variety "Karam". I appreciate it for its compact lash, and for the sweet early-appearing fruits that are tasty and fragrant in a very young age, when their length does not exceed 20 cm. Grown, like cucumbers, in a barrel. Crookneck was sown in another barrel.

Zucchini calmly endured weather disasters. Only during very prolonged rains, individual flowers were not pollinated. But crooknecks turned out to be heat-loving sissies. In cold periods, the fruits that set did not grow, remained small, however, very sweet.

pumpkins

On a compost bed of birch leaves, covered polyethylene film, sowed pumpkin seeds "Butternut", which was a success last year. She also sowed the seeds of a new hybrid "F1 Sweet Chestnut". It gives portioned pumpkins weighing up to 600 g of a peculiar chestnut flavor. These pumpkins can be baked whole in the oven.

Result: "Butternut" grew barely, bloomed like a plant short day, in August. The fruits grew very slowly, and by the end of September they barely reached 1 kg. After cutting in the first month of storage, rot spots appeared on the surface of most of them. It was not possible to save the pumpkins.

But "Sweet Chestnut" "did not notice" the bad weather. From one bush I received 11 charming healthy pumpkins.

I planted seedlings of fig-leaved pumpkin on a separate compost heap. Although she comes from Mexico, and I grew in partial shade, she really liked to grow in cherry-lilac thickets. She dropped many ovaries, but 3 weighty fruits remained.

I sowed lagenaria on the same pile. This tropical individual grew more slowly than the fig-leaved pumpkin, but it bloomed very profusely, tied several fruits, of which I left 2 meter specimens for seeds. Unfortunately, in September, the ends of the fruits began to rot, and the seeds almost did not ripen. However, positive side there is experience: it is quite possible to grow lagenaria for food not in a greenhouse, but in open ground And not even in the sun.

Tomatoes in the open field

I do not grow every year, but quite often. I use the most early maturing varieties, their fruits, as a rule, turn red "on the vine". This year she sowed varieties: "Moment", "Sanka", "F1 Leader of the Redskins", "Siberian abundance", "Heavyweight of Siberia", "Apparently-invisibly". Last year, the "Leader of the Redskins" gave beautiful harvest beautiful red tomatoes. This year I waited in vain for ripe fruits. Plants over the summer quickly grew into beautiful bushes with a decent amount of pretty fruits. But alas, they are all green. Summer is over, heat is no longer expected, went for a walk late blight. I had to harvest green fruits, which turned red very slowly in the mat, were tasteless and were suitable only for borscht or vegetable stew, as well as for blanks from green tomatoes. Part of the crop died from phytophthora. I was pleased only with the "Heavyweight of Siberia": large, up to 140 g, fruits grew, which turned red in the ground. The most interesting thing is that they turned out to be fleshy, practically without seeds, and very tasty. And what is completely incomprehensible - they turned red much earlier than in the greenhouse.

Vegetables in a greenhouse

There I traditionally grow sweet peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, often plant a couple of melon bushes and early green peas along the northern wall.

Seedlings of peppers (variety "Fry Type") and eggplants (variety "Vera") were grown according to the technology worked out over the years, planted in place when the soil in the greenhouse warmed up to 15 0С - i.e. everything is as usual. Fry Type always gives good harvests, "Faith" sowed for the first time. The result was unexpected: for the whole summer, the seedling bushes almost did not grow, with difficulty they tied up a couple of small fruits. This is the first time this has happened in my experience.

The melon of the F1 Galileo variety did not want to grow. She realized it in the second half of July. By the end of September, several tennis ball-sized melons had grown. There has never been such a failure in previous years.

greenhouse tomatoes

I planted, as I do every year, the Zhebendago, Likurich, Banana, and Early-ripening varieties tested for many years, I have been growing the F1Verlioka Plus hybrid for several years, but Vitas, Abakansky Pink and Siberian I've been trying varieties since last year. I tested the Kyoto variety for the first time this year.

All my old proven varieties gave excellent harvests. Surprised by "Kyoto": small potato-like leaves, very compact bushes, early pink very sweet fruits weighing up to 150 g - a candidate for permanent residence in my greenhouse. The “Siberians” upset: “Pink honey” - there are few fruits, however, quite large, but tasteless. "Apparently-invisibly" and "Siberian abundance" - the fruits are small, tasteless, lean - turned out much better on the street, although they did not have time to ripen there. I liked the "Velmozh" - large, fleshy, tasty, but very small.

Thus, the weather affects the size and quality of the crop in different cultures in different ways: the "southerners" - peppers, eggplants, melons, did not like the past summer, they were not only short of warmth at night, but also of sunlight. But for root crops and cabbage, rains and the absence of heat made it possible to give an excellent harvest.

Text and photo: Lyubov Bobrovskaya

Garden affairs No. 10-1 (63). Overview of the market for seeds and planting material

Not a single housewife can do without garlic in the kitchen, so it is not surprising that beds with this vegetable crop can be seen in almost any garden.

In the spring, he pleases with his friendly shoots. However, sometimes, instead of lush greenery, yellowed plants can be seen in the beds. Why does garlic turn yellow? How to deal with this problem?

Causes of discoloration of leaves in garlic

There are many reasons why garlic leaves change color. These changes may be related to:

• improper care,
• non-observance of the time of planting winter garlic,
• infection of the plant with diseases or damage by pests.

Untimely disembarkation and improper care

You can plant this crop in the garden both in spring and autumn. However, according to statistics, it most often turns yellow winter garlic. Why is this happening? Because the landing dates are not respected.

In the middle lane, it is better to plant garlic in October, in the south - in November. If you plant it ahead of time, he will have time to put out the first leaves and in winter the plants will freeze. As a result, yellowing of garlic leaves will be observed in the spring, which will lead to a noticeable decrease in its yield.

Another reason for the discoloration of garlic leaves is Cold winter. Often gardeners make a gross mistake: they plant cloves not very deep, as a result, the plant freezes. Therefore, after winter, frozen garlic throws out leaves already yellow at the tips or completely changed color.

What other causes of yellowing of tops are known?

1. Spring frosts. Severe frosts, in which the temperature drops below zero, unfortunately, sometimes occur even in May.
2. The plant does not have enough water.
3. Excessive watering.
4. The soil is low in nitrogen or other nutrients.
5. The plant lacks potassium. Due to the deficiency of this element, garlic leaves very often wither, its roots are damaged, and the plant slows down its growth. Potassium deficiency is easy to diagnose. Look at the sheet: if its edge is, as it were, burned along the edge, then you are not mistaken. "Edge burn" indicates a lack of potassium.

1. Your soil is acidic. Discoloration of garlic leaves may occur due to excessively acidic soil, which is not suitable for growing this crop.

Diseases

Sometimes garlic leaves change color due to disease or horticultural pests.

1. White rot. The garlic bulbs begin to rot, and the plant itself turns yellow. The disease spreads much faster if the spring is dry, or if the plant lacks nitrogen. White rot lives in the soil for up to 30 years, so getting rid of it can be very difficult.
2. Basal rot. This is also a fungus, but it is not so terrible, as it only affects weakened plants. In appearance, it looks like white rot, but in this case the plant does not die so quickly.
3. Black mold. Because of it, the bulbs soften, black dust can be seen between the scales of the plant, and the leaves change their color. The disease makes itself felt in violation of the temperature regime.
4. Fusarium. The fungus infects the plant if the soil in the garden is too wet. Leaves turn yellow and brown streaks appear on the stems.
5. Peronosporosis or downy mildew. The fungus spreads rainy weather. The causative agent of this disease remains in the soil for several years. Because of it, fluffy spots appear on the leaves, somewhat similar to dew. Gradually, they change color: first they turn yellow, then they turn black.
6. Rust. It spreads at high humidity, likes coolness. First, spots appear on the tops of the plant yellow color, and over time, affected garlic leaves turn orange.

Pests

Sometimes yellowing of garlic leaves develops due to pest damage:

stem nematode

Getting rid of these small thread-like worms (1.5 mm) can be very difficult. They prefer moist soil. These pests are especially active in warm weather(in cold summer they rarely make themselves felt). Because of them, light stripes form on the leaves, the tops turn yellow.

Garlic bulbs become loose, smell bad, and then completely rot. You can detect nematodes if you examine the bottom of the garlic using a magnifying glass. It can be difficult to get them out, so it’s better not to plant in this place. vegetable crops, and plant a bed with mint, calendula or marigolds.

onion fly

This is a small insect (up to 10 mm in length) that wakes up in spring and lays eggs in garlic flakes in early summer. Larvae hatch from them, which begin to eat on the plant, because of which it weakens.

Tobacco thrips

This is small insect yellow or Brown with wings that feeds on garlic juice. As a result of damage by tobacco thrips, garlic leaves first turn yellow and then dry. The fact that these pests have settled on the plant is evidenced by the appearance of white spots on the tops.

How to help yellowed plants?

What to do if the garlic turns yellow? How to save? What to water? What folk remedies can be used so that the leaves do not turn yellow?

1. Correct landing. If you plant winter garlic, do it not earlier and not later than the due date. Then he won't freeze. Planting depth - 4 ̶ 6 cm from the neck of the clove to the ground. To protect the garlic from frost, mulch the soil with fallen leaves.
2. Care of weakened plants. If the garlic is frozen in the garden in the spring, treat it with bio-stimulants (Zircon, Epin, Energen). They will help the plant gain strength and survive adverse conditions.
3. Water, but do not overwater the plant. If the weather is dry without rain, water the garlic regularly after each time the soil dries out. Don't forget to loosen the beds. If it rains, watering can be canceled, since it tolerates an excess of moisture even worse than a lack.
4. Reduce soil acidity. If you have acidic soil in your garden, you need to lime the ground before planting garlic. To neutralize the soil, you can use ground limestone or dolomite flour. They are introduced during the digging of the garden in spring or autumn. How much lime fertilizer is needed depends on the pH of the soil.

1. Apply nitrogen to the soil. To prevent nitrogen starvation, ammonium sulfate should be added to the soil in the fall. You can also use urea. In the spring, fertilize the beds again. Remember that fertilizers are washed out of the soil if it rains frequently.
2. Replenish the lack of potassium. If there is not enough potassium in the soil, then it is necessary to use a solution of potassium sulfate: for 10 liters of water - 15 ̶ gr. With this solution, you can process 1 square. m. of land. You can spray the plants with potassium sulfate (1 l - 1 tsp) or use an ash infusion for this. For its preparation, 1 kg of ash is needed, which is poured into 10 liters of boiling water and infused for 48 hours. Then the infusion is filtered and sprinkled with garlic.
3. Conduct disease prevention. Before planting, the garden bed is treated with fungicides ("Acrobot", "Radomil"). Seed material is disinfected in a solution of special preparations ("Maxim", "Fitosporin"), acting according to the instructions. Don't forget crop rotation.
4. Manage pests. To get rid of the onion fly, the beds are treated with a solution of table salt: for 10 liters of water - 200 g. If you spray the beds with it, the larvae will die. Before planting, decontaminate garlic cloves by dipping them in hot water(40 degrees). Keep them there for at least 2 hours, remembering to change the water. Marigolds and calendula help against nematodes. They are planted in the infected area. Pests crawl towards them, attracted by the smell, and then die from their poisonous juice.

Video: what to do so that the garlic does not turn yellow?

Summer residents of the central and middle lane Russia is sad: the strawberries do not keep up, and the one that turned red is watery and tasteless. Cucumbers almost do not grow, and those that are are crooked. In general, the rain is not at all happy. And it seems that we can not wait for the harvest. About how to save the harvest in a rainy summer, and what to do to still eat the long-awaited berries and cucumber-tomatoes, we talked with our permanent expert, the famous gardener Andrey Tumanov. 1. Phytophthora on tomatoes Due to the high humidity in tomato greenhouses, phytophthora is rapidly developing - a fungal disease that affects the leaves, because of which they quickly turn black and dry out, the fruits begin to rot. - It was necessary to fight late blight in advance, to carry out prevention - says Andrey Tumanov. - If you have slight defeat, can be treated with fungicides, there are a lot of them for sale, follow the instructions. It is especially important to process the back of the leaves. Fungicides are much more effective than many folk remedies which you can read about on the internet. And sometimes it's much safer. More important points: + be sure to remove the affected leaves; + cut off the lower, thickening leaves, form a bush correctly. It is impossible for the jungle to be in the greenhouse: the freer, the lower the probability of being affected by the disease; + leave the windows open even at night - the greenhouse should be well ventilated so that moisture does not condense (the same applies to greenhouses for peppers and cucumbers); + water not the whole earth, but only under the root, so as not to create unnecessary importance. You can dig a root hole, spill it well (don't be sorry - at least a bucket on a tomato bush if you water it once a week), and then sprinkle it with dry earth. 2. Apple tree - in the scab Very young apples are already beginning to rot right on the tree, becoming "lousy". - Scab does not attack modern varieties immune to this disease, there are now a great many of them. There is less chance of disease if the trees are well-groomed, properly pruned, our expert explains. - This fungal disease loves old trees with irregular crowns. Although I agree excessive moisture contributes to its development. To preserve the crop, cut off the affected fruits and dispose of them (dig them deep into the ground). You can spray with fungicides. But you need to do this in dry weather. And it is unpredictable with us - if it rains after spraying, it will be useless. 3. On strawberries - gray rot Another fungal disease that actively develops at high humidity will attack mainly the berries. - Strawberry plantings should be young (not older than four years), well ventilated, then they are not afraid of any gray rot. And most importantly - the berries should not lie on the ground! Place flat stones, wood chips under them, prop them up with something - even with plastic forks, even with scraps of aluminum wire. The main thing is that the berries do not touch the ground. And do not forget to remove excess whiskers, dry leaves. A simple agricultural technique that will protect the berries from the disease. 4. Onions - in downy mildew Onions and garlic literally float in water. Togo and look will begin to rot right in the ground. - There is a danger of a false powdery mildew(fungal disease, due to which yellow, as if oily spots appear on the leaves, tops). But its occurrence is also a matter of prevention. When the onion was young, it had to be treated with special preparations. Now this can also be done, just read the instructions - after some drugs green feather can't eat for a while. To save the bulb from rot, try to slightly open its neck - to arrange some kind of ventilation. But in general, it was not necessary to plant the sevok deep, then top part the grown bulb itself is on the surface. 5. Cucumbers grow worse. They love heat, just like peppers. Therefore, cover the greenhouses, leaving not two, but one window for ventilation. Then the peppers and cucumbers will be a little warmer. At the same time, cucumbers, despite high humidity"overboard", still need watering and nutrition.