Knife for edge chipboard. WEGOMA trimming tools. Longitudinal trimming tool WEGOMA AU93

Edging is a basic stage in the process of manufacturing cabinet furniture from board materials. The article about showed the easiest way of edging - manually, using ordinary household tools. There are highly specialized tools designed for edge trimming that can greatly facilitate and speed up the work of a furniture maker.

End trimming tool WEGOMA KG94.

The tool allows you to quickly and accurately cut the end of melamine, PVC or ABS edges up to 1.2 mm thick and up to 54 mm wide with one touch.

KG94 is made of durable plastic, equipped with two removable knives, working on the principle of scissors. If necessary, the bottoms can be replaced with new ones or sharpened. The fixed knife is adjustable in reach and installation angle, this allows you to set a minimum, uniform gap between cutting edges knives for high quality cuts.

Photo of the KG94 undercutter from different angles.

The operation of the lever and knives.

The KG94 undercutter is mounted on the part.
To perform cutting, you need to press the lever.

Cutter KG94 in the process of cutting. The lever is partially pressed.

Edge trimmed with tool KG94
In the photo yellow - melamine edge, "Wenge" - ABS.

In the event that the adjacent end of the part had a glued edge, after trimming, sometimes a small influx of glue remains, which is easily removed solvent or by mechanical means.

The tool for longitudinal cutting of an edge of WEGOMA AU93.

The tool is designed for double-sided longitudinal trimming of edges up to 0.5 mm thick and up to 40 mm wide. Two knives work for each edge overhang: the main knife cuts the edge overhang (surplus) flush with the part face, the other one removes the corner chamfer from the edge edge and / or cleans up possible flaws in the operation of the first knife.

Structurally, AU93 consists of two mirror-like plastic elements - half-shells, connected to each other through two guide bushings with springs inside. Each semi-body has three removable, adjustable knives, which allows you to work with the tool on either side, or adjust the sides for working with edging materials of various thicknesses. The main double knife has a setting for fit to the plate. Additional two chamfering knives are adjustable in reach.

Photo of the cutter AU93 from different angles.

Longitudinal cutter in disassembled form. The smaller the edge width, the more you have to compress the springs. When working with chipboard up to 18 mm thick, it makes sense to put the springs weaker, or even remove them altogether.

Semi-hull. The main knife adjusting screw is visible.

Adjusting screw of one of the additional knives.

Set of new knives for AU93. A similar kit is also available for the KG94 end cutter.

The minimum possible thickness of the workpiece is 14 mm.

WEGOMA AU93 in action. Edge melamine (yellow) and ABS (Wenge).

Melamine and ABS edges cut to length.

Based on the results of using these WEGOMA tools in the production of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboard, we can draw the following conclusions.

The WEGOMA KG94 end cutter is a universal, useful and necessary tool. It can be safely recommended to any furniture maker who still uses a knife. The cutter works equally well with melamine, PVC and ABS edging, as well as with HPL plastic used for edging kitchen worktops. With sharp and adjusted knives, the cut is perfect or close to perfect, requiring only light grinding with an emery bar.

Longitudinal edge cutter WEGOMA AU93 in practice does not always demonstrate excellent results. When working with a melamine edge, the tool often leaves an inconspicuous, but tactilely felt step, which must be sanded off. Adjustment of the main cutter knives did not lead to the proper result. On the ABS edge, the step problem is almost non-existent. Additional knives do not justify themselves at all, they work with varying success, depending on the force of pressing the semi-hulls to the material and the point of application of this force. An important advantage of the AU93 longitudinal undercutter is that it allows you to comfortably work with long, large-sized parts in any spatial position.

(LDSP) the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, a furniture edge and a profile are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.

Types of furniture edges

One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the ugly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. Make it from different materials, respectively, it has different properties and price.

Paper or melamine edges

Most cheap option- edges made of paper with melamine impregnation. Paper is taken with increased density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and pasted on papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layered (cheaper) and double-layered. To prevent the melamnov coating from being erased, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the reverse side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, it is only necessary to warm up this composition slightly and press it well against the end.

Paper or melamine edging is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture

The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm - the most common. There is no point in doing it thicker, and it will turn out expensive.

This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But mechanical strength its very low - the edge is quickly worn out. Therefore, if it is used, then only on those surfaces that are not subjected to stress. For example, on back side shelves, countertops, etc.

PVC

Polyvinyl chloride, which has recently become widespread, is also used in the production of edges for furniture. From dyed to specific color mass, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth monophonic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it is easy to choose the right one.

Furniture edge PVC is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:

PVC furniture edge is produced different thickness and width. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. There is a furniture PVC edge with applied adhesive composition, yes - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).

This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heating, you must be careful not to melt the polymer.

Made of ABS (ABS) plastic

This polymer does not contain heavy metals, differs high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:

This type of edge can be matte, glossy, semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate different types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to work with and more durable in use.

Veneer edge

Veneer is a thin slice of wood that has been dyed and shaped into a ribbon. This furniture edge is used in production when pasting slices of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.

Veneer is not the most popular material for edging

Acrylic edge or 3D

Made from clear acrylic. On the reverse side stripes are applied drawing. The polymer layer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. It is used in the manufacture of furniture in an unusual design.

Furniture edge profiles

You can finish the edge of furniture not only with an edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are mechanically fastened. They have two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).

A groove is milled under the T-shaped furniture profiles in the processed edge. A profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the corner look attractive. It is brought to perfect condition with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum, with the same installation method they look very different, and the differences are significant.

In width, they are available for chipboard 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.

S- or P- shaped profiles most often mounted on glue. They smear the edge, then put on plastic profile well pressed and fixed. These PVC profiles are soft and hard. Rigid ones bend worse and it is difficult to paste over curved edges with them. But they have great strength.

If you still need to "plant" a rigid C-shaped furniture profile in a bend, it is heated with a building hair dryer, then it is given the desired shape and fixed masking tape until the glue dries.

We glue the furniture edge with our own hands

There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those who have glue applied on the back. In this case, you need an iron or a building hair dryer. The second is for sticking tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good all-purpose adhesive that can glue plastics and wood products and furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.

A little about how thick the edge to glue on what parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, can not be glued at all, but basically they are trying to process them so that moisture is less absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or PVC 0.4 mm is glued to these edges. The edges of drawers (not facades) are also processed.

On the front ends of the facade and drawers, it is better to use PVC 2 mm, and on the visible sections of the shelves - PVC 1 mm. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.

How to glue the edging with glue yourself

The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge, it happens on PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine ones are easy to glue.

We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, a dense cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. For this purpose, a building hair dryer is also suitable. We put the iron on about “deuce”, while it is heated, cut off a piece of tape. Length - a couple of centimeters more than the workpiece.

We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it. Small pieces should hang down from both sides. We take an iron and, through a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, warming up until the glue melts. It is necessary to warm up evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.

The edge can be cut with a knife, both sharp and blunt side. Someone uses a regular metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.

So, we take the tool of your choice, cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are perfectly cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges are possible, if any. This guarantees good result in a short time. Longer processing will last if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.

One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, because of which all defects are visible. Therefore, first go through the cuts with sandpaper, then carefully dedust, degrease. Only after that you can glue.

Edging with PVC tape (without adhesive on the reverse side)

With this method of self-gluing PVC edges, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue, perform all the actions on the recommendation. For example, for Moment glue, it is necessary to apply on the surface and distribute the composition, wait 15 minutes, press the surfaces to be glued strongly.

Apply glue and wait - no problem. To firmly press the edge to the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a bar, you can take a construction grater, and also attach felt to its sole. In extreme cases, you can roll up a dense fabric in several layers and thereby press the tape to the surface.

The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all the weight, pressing it against the chipboard surface. The movements at the same time are stroking. So iron the entire edge, achieving a very snug fit. In this form, the part is left for a while - so that the glue "grabs". Then you can start processing the edge.

An easy way to stick PVC edge

The easiest way to stick a PVC edge is to order hot melt glue to be rolled onto the edge in any furniture workshop. Then glue it, heating it with an iron or a hair dryer (naturally, not with an ordinary hair dryer, but with a technical one, which gives 500-600 degrees at the output). I myself did not use this method, so about negative sides I can only speculate, based on my experience with the material.

I glue the PVC edge on the usual rubber glue sold by us in bulk. Best for "Moment", "88" is also suitable.

Knife and other hand cutting tools not suitable for PVC processing. Even if you manage to cut the edge with a knife, then, I assure you, neither the effort nor the time spent on this thankless task will pay for itself.

To process such an edge, you will need a router. In fact, a special edge router is used for these purposes:

But if you are not going to open your own production, then there is no need to buy such a machine. It is better to purchase a normal, large milling cutter. In addition to processing PVC, it is useful for finishing the ends, and for grooving - both at the ends of the panels and on the layer. And if you work with wood, then you simply need a router!

It is not necessary to buy a cool and expensive, quite good Phiolent routers - a reliable semi-professional

Cutter cutter ABS edging

For processing PVC edges, the following cutter is used:

Therefore, the first step will be to slightly modernize our router by adding a step to the platform. . It can be made from textolite, plywood, at worst, from fiberboard - in a word, from any sheet material 4-5 mm thick. You can fix it on screws, screws, etc., the main thing is to drown the hats or glue!

Now you need to adjust the cutter height. On the processed panel, this should not be done. It is unlikely that the first time you will be able to accurately adjust the height. Take some scrap (but not very narrow, so that the router platform does not swing), glue it with an edge, and set it up on it.

Usually, no matter how you set it up, a small protrusion remains after processing. This is not scary, just try to keep this protrusion to a minimum so that it can be easily cut off with a knife. When you finish tuning, do not throw away this cut - it will come in handy next time. When it becomes necessary to re-adjust the height of the cutter, simply turn the cutter perpendicular to the face and lower the platform so that the cutter rests snugly on the machined edge.

The cutter is set, you can start processing the panels. You need to process in two passes. After the first pass, the cut will most likely be uneven, with the second pass we align all the protrusions and depressions:

It's in that order! If you change the pass order, the cutter will knock out and chip off the edge. From time to time, clean the cutter bearing and edge from adhering chips - the bearing can bounce on it and the cut will be uneven.

So, the panel you have processed with a milling cutter, but this is only a small part of the work. Now you have a long manual processing which takes two to three times longer. First you need to trim the hanging ends of the edge. This can be done with large scissors or simply broken off by first cutting with a knife. When breaking off, do not forget to firmly press the edge at the edge of the butt so that it does not peel off. Cut not at the very root, but retreating somewhere by 0.5 mm. It is better to spend time sanding or sanding than cutting more than necessary.

No router cuts PVC perfectly. In any case, bumps will remain that will be clearly visible in the light. In most companies that manufacture furniture for sale, no one bothers with further processing - they cut off the remaining protrusion with a knife, strike a couple of times with the back of the knife along the cut and that's it.

But are you doing it for yourself? So get ready to spend the same amount of time to bring the cut to perfect condition. First of all, cut off the protrusion remaining after the router with a knife (if the height of the cutter is set correctly, then you will have to cut off a thin thread).

If you glued PVC on contact adhesive, then most likely there will be streaks and streaks of glue on the panel. Be careful when cutting them. And it is better to first remove them with a cloth moistened with solvent or gasoline. After that, walk along the cut with a fine sandpaper, aligning all the “ripples”, then polish it with felt.

Now you have finished panel, which is not inferior in quality to the one made on furniture factory, and maybe surpassing it!

Everyone who has ever encountered laminated chipboard knows that a plate made of this material has smooth surfaces with a textured pattern, while its end parts are a hodgepodge wood chips with glue. In order to give the parts sawn from such a plate a presentation, a process such as chipboard edging was invented. It is a gluing on the ends of the details of a decorative strip - "edge", which can be either in color with the chipboard decor or different from it.

To date, two main types of edges are used:

• PVC edge
• melamine edge

PVC edge used in the factory manufacture of furniture, it is more reliable, durable, durable, but the edging procedure when using it is quite laborious. AT furniture workshops special edging machines are used. PVC edge thickness is 2 mm and 0.4 mm. The width also varies depending on the thickness of the chipboard sheets.

Melamine edge less durable, but requires a minimum of tools to stick and is widely used among home furniture makers. But due to the low mechanical resistance, its use is limited. Personally, I glue the melamine edge mainly on drawers. On the reverse side of the melamine edge there is always a hot-melt adhesive applied, and it itself is sufficiently resistant to elevated temperatures, so a simple iron is enough to stick it. It is only thin (0.4 mm) and has never been seen wider than 20 mm.

Since our site is devoted to a greater extent to work at home, first we will analyze how.

So, for work, we need the edge itself, an ordinary iron, a metal ruler, a clamp or a vise (optional), small sandpaper on the bar.

The edge sticker technique itself is as simple as a nail:

Now let's figure out how to glue PVC edge with your own hands, i.e. without use edging machine. Such an edge will last much longer than melamine, besides 2 mm and looks "richer". It is worth mentioning that the PVC edge can be either already with an adhesive layer (hot melt adhesive) or without it. In the first case, edging occurs using building hair dryer, and in the second case - you need to purchase glue. Let's consider the second method in more detail, because. it is more economical.

Let's start with gluing 0.4 mm PVC edges. To fix it, it is best to use contact types of glue, for example, 3M ™ Scotch-Grip, Moment Crystal, Titanium or "88". It should be noted that it is more convenient to work with liquid glue (3M), it is easier to level and its consumption is much less. We work with glue according to the instructions indicated on the package.

Contact adhesive can be replaced with hot melt adhesive. For this you will need glue gun with a set of rods and an industrial hair dryer.

For work, we need a roller to press the edge (it can be successfully replaced with a rag or a piece of felt boots)), the glue itself, a spatula for leveling the glue or a simple brush, as you like, a wide chisel or a knife from a planer to remove excess edges, a sanding block with a fine sandpaper .