16.09.2017 7 297

Juniper planting and care in the open field

beautiful juniper, planting and care in the open field, which are not too complicated at first glance, still require attention from the gardener in order to please the owners with a beautiful and healthy look, and you need to know how to do all this correctly, at what time, in autumn or spring, how to feed the plant, how to transplant to a new place, how to spray from yellowing and rust, how to trim, etc.

How to plant juniper in open ground

Landing in open ground a laborious process with many nuances, the observance of which will allow you to enjoy a beautiful plant in the country or in the garden.

The best time for planting juniper is early spring, when the frosts are over, but the weather is still not too warm. An excellent option would be the period when the snow melts. Of course, you can plant a plant later, but then there is a danger of burning out the needles. It should be said that in a later period, young growth should be planted.

Many are interested in the question of how to plant juniper in the fall. In this case, the plant may not have time to take root, as a result, it will die. It is important to note that if the juniper has a closed root system, then it can be planted at any time of the year.

When choosing a site for juniper, take care of the constant sun. The sun's rays should shine on the plant all day. Only on hot days summer days some varieties of juniper require shading.

How much light hits a plant affects how it looks. If the site is dominated by a shadow, then the plant will grow poorly. The variegated juniper will cease to have original color needles.

As for the choice of soil, here big role plays the type you choose. So, for Cossack, ordinary and Central Asian varieties of juniper, soil is required, which includes dolomite flour or slaked lime.

Siberian juniper loves sandy or sandy loam soil, for virgin - clay soil with compost is suitable.

The remaining species take root well if peat, sand, a protective layer with peat and wood chips to create an acidic reaction.

The plant is sold in various containers. The most suitable for planting are a plant in containers, with a volume of 5 liter pots with a closed root system. If you buy a seedling with an open root system, be sure to check the roots, they have White color and strong enough. Do not buy juniper if you notice damage on it.

When do you plan to plant big size, then here you will need certain skills or the help of a specialist. These plants are pre-grown in the ground and must be dug up to be sold.

True, experts do not recommend planting mature plants. This is due to the fact that during growth the roots go far into the ground, when digging out, the main root is often damaged, which leads to the fact that the juniper dies after transplantation. Therefore, an adult juniper should be planted in winter with a frozen soil clod. Disembarking at such a time allows you to increase the chances of good survival and healthy development in the future.

Remember, before planting, be sure to moisten the lump with plenty of water, somewhere 2 hours before planting.

Prepare the place in advance. Dig a hole in it, the size of which directly depends on the size of the plant. For example, for young plants fit a pit with a size of 1m × 1m, a depth of 50 cm. Experts recommend making a pit 2 times larger than a soil clod.

At the very bottom of the pit where the plant is planned to be planted, drainage is added, with a layer of about 20 cm (it is better to use broken brick, large pebbles and sand). The free space is filled with cultivated soil. This soil is suitable for any kind.

When placing, be very careful not to damage the root system and earthen clod. Make sure that in young plants the root neck is at the surface of the earth, and in adult specimens it rises by about 10 cm.

Then pour abundantly with water. The area near the trunk is covered with a protective layer (mulch), which can be peat, pine bark, wood chips, sawdust, crushed cones or pine nut shells. The mulch should be 10 cm thick.

Transplanting juniper from the forest is not very difficult, the main thing is to follow the rules:

1. Only young and small plants are suitable for transplantation, because. they have not yet formed a large root system
2. After choosing a plant, be sure to mark its sunny side (before digging it out so as not to get confused), and plant it on exactly the same side.
3. Dig up the plant together with a clod of earth, place it in a film or burlap, wrap and tie
4. Planting is carried out in the same way as in the case of a plant purchased in a nursery

Juniper, care in the garden and in the country

Summer residents appreciate juniper for its beauty and ease of care. By adhering to some rules of care, you can grow a healthy and beautiful plant.

Juniper long time does without water, but in the summer it should be watered at least 1 time in 30 days. As practice shows, this happens much more often, especially in hot sultry weather, you need to water the plants every day.

Sometimes it should be sprayed with plain water from a spray bottle. Spraying is best done weekly in the morning or evening, so as not to burn the green part of the shrub.

In spring, the soil is fertilized with nitroammophos in the proportion of 45 grams per 1 sq.m. In summer, you can also use mineral, if the plant requires it. Fertilize the soil if the juniper does not grow well.

As for the transplant, the juniper takes root very poorly, so it is carried out only if necessary. To do this, be sure to prepare the soil - mix sand in equal proportions, coniferous land and peat. Water well after transplanting.

Juniper does not require pruning, you only need to remove dry branches. If you want to create a beautiful crown, then you can not cut too much, the plant will get sick.

In winter, a young juniper is covered with lutrastil, an adult plant is simply tied up so that the branches do not break off under the weight of snow. If there is a lot of snow, then sometimes shake off the plant.

The onset of spring is a dangerous period, the sun can burn out the needles. To avoid this, shade the juniper with a cloth or burlap. When the snow completely melts, the burlap can be removed. Clean the trunk circle, remove the protective layer so that there is no rotting of the roots. Dig and loosen the earth. After the soil has dried, a new protective layer can be poured.

Now you know, dear readers, that juniper, planting and caring for which is not difficult, can delight you with a beautiful view for many years.

Juniper (in Latin Juniperus) belongs to the genus of coniferous evergreen shrubs. The smell of juniper is resinous, coniferous. He takes off headache, soothes the nerves, gives a calm and deep sleep. AT Ancient Egypt rooms were fumigated with juniper, and the floors were wiped with pine needles during epidemics. The Indians of North America carried their sick tribesmen under the juniper bushes. It was believed that it helps with skin and joint diseases.

Juniper is a long-lived plant, it can live up to 600-1000 years or even more. At the same time, it gives young growth throughout its life. The root system of almost all varieties is powerful and deep.

Types of juniper.

In total there are more than seventy species. Let's look at the common ones.

Juniper Cossack.

It grows in the mountains of Southern and Central Europe, in Siberia, in the Caucasus Mountains, in Asia Minor. The bush grows up to one and a half meters. It grows quite slowly. Creeping crown. Rooted by shoots lying on the ground and creates dense thickets. Dioecious. Likes neutral or slightly acidic soil. Frost and drought resistant. Good for dry air. Watering is needed only for young plants during the growth period. Likes abundant spraying of the crown with water. Often used to reinforce slopes. Most beautiful variety- Tamariscifolia. Well-known varieties include: Glauca, Rockery Gem, Buffalo.

Juniper ordinary.

It grows in the mountains and forests of Europe, North Africa, North Asia, and northeast Russia. The bush grows up to ten meters in height. But usually it does not exceed two or three meters. Grows slowly. Can live up to 200 years. The crown is cone-shaped, dense. Dioecious. Likes slightly acidic and neutral light soil. Grows well in moist soils. Does not tolerate dry air. Optimal time landings: spring. Winter-hardy, shelter is not required for the winter. The needles are hard. Cone berries are used in medicine, as they have phytoncidal properties. Popular varieties: Hibernica, Suecica, Sentinel, Arnold. The last two varieties are very compact and are used for landscaping. small flower beds or landscaping the porch.

Red cedar.

It grows in river valleys and on dry mountain slopes. Native to North America. Grows up to thirty meters. In Russia - no higher than six meters. Grows slowly when young, faster with age. Lives for a hundred years or more. Likes neutral or slightly acidic soil. The crown is columnar. With age, it becomes ovoid or oval. Most often monoecious. Tap root system with well-developed lateral processes. It tolerates shearing well and is suitable for the formation of tall, beautiful hedges. In the US, it is called "pencil wood" because its wood is resistant to rot and is used to make pencils. To popular varieties include: Glauca, Pendula, Canaertii, Burkii.

Juniper horizontal.

It grows on the sandy banks of rivers and lakes, as well as on hillsides. Low shrub - up to one meter. Grows slowly in youth, then faster. A creeping shrub with long, graceful branches. Dioecious. Rod, branched root system. Prefers acidic or alkaline sandy soils. Propagated exclusively by cuttings. Frost and drought resistant. Dislikes dry air. Watering is needed only for young plants. An adult plant prefers abundant spraying. It is used as a ground cover plant, as well as for decorating retaining walls. Known varieties: Gray Pearl, Glacier, Winter Blue, Limeglow, Golden Carpert, Green Carpert.

Juniper scaly.

It grows in Taiwan, Central and Western China, Eastern Himalayas. Low - up to one and a half meters. Grows slowly. Dense, creeping shrub. Dioecious. Propagated by seeds or cuttings. Likes slightly acidic or neutral soil. Frost and drought resistant. In youth and during periods of drought, watering is necessary. The needles are silvery blue above and dark green below. Known varieties: Blue Star, Blue Swede, Holger, Blue Carpet, Meyeri.

Juniper medium.

Interspecific hybrid of Cossack and Chinese junipers. Grows up to 3-4 meters. But there are shorter varieties - up to 40 cm. The crown is sprawling in youth, and over time - rising. Monoecious. Likes slightly acidic or neutral soil. Propagated by cuttings. Requires watering in dry weather. It is good for abundant spraying of the crown. Frost-resistant. The needles are either needle-shaped or scaly, with a bluish stripe, pointed. Popular varieties include: Pfitzeriana, Pfitzeriana Compacta, Pfitzeriana Aurea, Pfitzeriana Glauca, Old Gold, Variegata.

Coastal juniper.

Originally from the islands of Sakhalin and Kiu Siu. Grows on coastal sand dunes. Low, creeping shrub - up to 20 cm tall, often forms strong thickets. Dioecious. Propagated by cuttings, seeds, layering. Prefers slightly alkaline or acidic sandy soils. Drought tolerant. When young, watering is required. Does not respond well to dry air. Likes abundant spraying of the crown with water. The needles are hard, prickly, needle-shaped, gray-green in color.

Juniper rocky.

Native to western North America. Grows up to 13 m. Grows rather slowly. The crown is columnar, rounded or pin-shaped, lowered to the ground. Propagated by cuttings and seeds. Likes neutral or slightly acid light soil. Grows well in moist soils. A young plant needs watering. Frost-resistant. The needles are scaly, pressed, not sharp, 2 mm long. Or needle-shaped, 12 mm long. Blue-green or green. Known varieties: Blue Haven, Blue Arrow, Moonglow, Scyrocket.

Juniper Sargent.

Originally from the Sakhalin Islands, southern Kuriles, Hokkaido, Shikoku, Hondo, Kiu-Siou. Grows on coastal rocks. Grows slowly. It does not grow above 0.8 m. The crown is creeping, with long barrel, and dense, branched lateral branches that overlap each other, forming a wide and dense crown. Propagated by cuttings and seeds. Prefers loamy, sandy, light, slightly acidic or neutral soil. Likes well-humidified air. Moderately demanding on watering. Winter hardy. The needles are gray or green, blunt, scaly.

Juniper Dahurian.

Grows on sandy shores and mountain slopes Far East, Northern Mongolia, Eastern Siberia. A low growing shrub up to 30 cm tall. It grows quite slowly. Crohn creeping, creeping, easily rooting. Propagated by seeds, layering, cuttings. Dioecious. Likes neutral or slightly acidic loams, sandy and light soils. Drought tolerant. Prefers wet air. Young plants require watering, adults love sprinkling the crown. The needles are needle-shaped, up to 8 mm long, sharp, not hard, prickly, bluish-green in color.

juniper chinensis.

Native to China, Korea, Mongolia and Japan. In nature, this is a fairly tall tree up to 10-15 meters in height. In culture, it is more often a shrub with a creeping or pyramidal crown. Dioecious. Grows slowly. Likes neutral or slightly acidic fertile soil. Propagated by layering or cuttings. Seeds are used only for propagation of the main species. Varietal qualities are poorly inherited with this method of reproduction.

Very sensitive to moisture. Adequate watering is required during the growth period. Does not tolerate dry weather. Loves spraying the crown with water. Quite winter-hardy, but freezes in severe frosts. In young plants, the needles are scaly, in adults - needle-shaped. Blueish green. Chinese juniper is often used for bonsai. The most common varieties are: Ames, Ketelerii, Spartan, Monarch, Obelisk, Stricta.

Landing.

When choosing a seedling, it is necessary to pay special attention to the condition and development of the roots, as well as the condition of the needles. The roots must be fresh, not dried and white. The entire container in which the seedling grows must be occupied by the roots. The needles should not be rare, dull, yellow. Juniper grows well in open areas of the garden or in the yard.

Almost all types of juniper love soft, peaty, moist soils and the sun. However, the plant variety must be taken into account. Some varieties Chinese juniper, for example, prefer dry, rocky soils. The seedling should be 3-4 years old. Any variety of juniper is planted in the spring, from April to May.

The first thing to do is to dig a hole twice as deep as the height of the seedling .. Next, you need to fill it with sod and peat soil along with sand in the proportion: 2 parts of earth to 1 part of peat and sand. It is good to add up to 300 g of nitroammophoska to the soil. This is a universal fertilizer suitable for all garden and vegetable crops.

Juniper is prone to fungal diseases, so it must be treated with special mixtures. After, straighten the roots of the seedling and carefully place it in the prepared hole. You need to get the seedling out of the pot right before planting. After the pit, fill it with earth under the root and make a bypass channel for irrigation. Pour 2 buckets of water with dissolved rooting agent. Cover with mulch: foliage, peat, ordinary newspapers. The layer of mulch should be 10-13 cm thick.

If it is necessary to plant several bushes, then a distance of 1.5 m is left between them for low bushes, and at least 2-3 m for tall trees. Knowing the size of the juniper in its adult state, it is easy to calculate the distance between the holes.

Care.

In order for the juniper to be healthy, the following conditions must be observed:

1 . Constant spraying and watering, especially during the hot period;

2 . The roots of the plant feed on oxygen, so the earth needs to be loosened quite often;

3 . In hot weather, it is better to cover the juniper with a canopy, otherwise the sun will burn the needles. In frosts - wrap with special material;

4 . In the spring, add up to 50 g of nitroammophoska per 1 square meter to the soil;

5 . Juniper does not need pruning unless it is used as a hedge. In spring and autumn, you only need to remove dried twigs;

6 . The plant is frost-resistant, however, seedlings in their first winter after planting should be covered with spruce branches;

7 . If the juniper has a spreading crown, for the winter its branches are tied with twine.

Juniper grows very slowly. In some varieties, the annual growth does not exceed 4-5 centimeters. This must be taken into account when cutting.

Reproduction.

Juniper is a plant, mainly dioecious. The sex is determined by the crown. In males, the crown is narrow, ovoid or columnar. In females - loose and sprawling. In late spring, yellow spikelets appear on male specimens, and green cones on female specimens. The fruits are up to 0.8 cm in diameter. They ripen from August to October. At first green, with time they become black-violet with a waxy coating. Inside the berry - 3 seeds.

seeds.

To grow a juniper from a seed, it must be stratified. To do this, in the fall, the seeds are sown in boxes with soil. The boxes are stored outdoors, under snow, for up to 150 days. In May, the seeds are sown in the beds. Shoots will appear in a year.

cuttings.

cuttings - universal way reproduction of all varieties of juniper. Cuttings are best done in the spring. Harvesting is carried out in cloudy weather, as the sun can have a negative effect on the cuttings, and on the juniper itself, from which they were cut. You can cut the cuttings at the end of summer, when the young shoots are already ripe and woody. But in this case, they will have to winter indoors.

For cuttings use the tops of the shoots. In creeping varieties, any shoots are cut. In pyramidal and columnar varieties, vertical shoots are cut off. The cuttings should be cut with a sharp knife, 10-15 cm long, together with the shield (that is, with the bark). The resulting shoots are freed from needles to a height of 3-4 cm from the shield. Cut cuttings should not be stored. They must be planted immediately. If it doesn’t work out, then they can be put in water for one to two hours or put in the refrigerator, wrapped in a damp cloth.

There are recommendations to soak cuttings before planting in growth stimulants. But it is better not to do this, since the bark of the juniper is very tender. In water, it can exfoliate, which will lead to a decrease in the productivity of the workpieces. It is better to plant shoots in the soil and water it with sodium humate. This will speed up root formation.

The substrate in which the cuttings will be placed must be air and water permeable, loose. A mixture of coarse sand and peat is ideal, in a ratio of one to one. Cuttings are buried in a box with a substrate, at an angle of 60 degrees. The boxes are stored in a dry and warm greenhouse. Before bud break, the temperature in the greenhouse should be in the region of 16-19 degrees, and after blooming - 23-26 degrees.

Direct sunlight for shoots is detrimental. If the greenhouse is in the sun, it is advisable to make a canopy over the boxes with cuttings. The first roots will appear no earlier than 60-90 days after planting. It is advisable to leave the seedlings in boxes for another 1-2 years, so that the roots grow and get stronger. It is necessary to transplant the cuttings very carefully, taking them out together with the ground and moving them into the planting holes with it.

layering.

Propagated by layering creeping varieties juniper. This is done at any time during the growing season. For layering, you need to choose young branches, as lignified ones take root poorly. The soil around the plant is dug up, loosened, and fertilized with acidic peat and sand. Selected young shoots are cleared of needles at a distance of 15-20 cm from the base of the branch. After they are pressed to the ground with the cleaned part and attached with studs. The pinned shoot is spudded and watered. Layers take root in six months to a year. Young shoots will appear on them, which must be detached and transplanted to a permanent place.

Graft.

Valuable varieties are propagated by grafting, which are grafted onto the common juniper. The cut scion (shoot) is pressed against the rootstock. The junction is tightly tied with a rope or tape. The survival rate of the scion is low.

Diseases and treatment.

Fusarium.

Fusarium juniper is caused by fungi. The disease leads to rotting of the root system. Fungi penetrate the vessels of the plant and fill them. Juniper roots turn brown. The supply of nutrients to the crown stops. The needles turn yellow, redden, and eventually fall off. The plant dries up. Diseases are most susceptible to young plants. The fungus spreads through the vessels, and it may not be immediately noticeable.

The infection persists in plants and is spread by infected soil or infected planting stock. Low areas with stagnant water, heavy clay soils, constant shade create good conditions to spread the disease.

Fight method.

For preventive purposes, before planting, seedlings are treated in a solution of Vitaros, Baktofit, Maxim. Preventive spraying is carried out with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. At the first signs of the disease, the soil under the plants is watered with a solution of Gamair or Fitosporin-M. If all else fails, the infected plants are culled and destroyed along with the roots and affected plant debris.

Rust.

The causative agents of the disease are fungi. They develop on juniper, but their intermediate “hosts” are rosaceous:,. Fungal spores germinate on skeletal branches, on shoots, cones and needles, forming a wintering mycelium. In the spring, when there is still snow, brown growths up to 0.5 cm appear on the trunk and branches, which swell after rain and become covered with mucus. In these growths, fungal spores develop, which then germinate and form an orange coating. Hence the name of the disease. Branches affected by rust dry out, the needles acquire a pronounced brown color and crumble. The disease is practically incurable.

Fight method.

Cut off affected branches. Disinfect wounds and cuts with a 1% solution of copper sulphate. Cover wounds with pastes, such as Runnet or garden pitch. All pruned branches are collected and burned. In spring and autumn, preventive spraying is carried out with a 1% Bordeaux solution or its substitutes. Don't plant juniper next to rosaceae and it won't get sick.

Brown coat.

The disease affects the plant under the snow, at positive temperatures. In the spring, when the snow melts and the branches of the juniper are freed from it, brown or yellow needles are found on them. The disease is caused by fungi. With the course of the disease, black spots appear in the affected needles. small balls- fruiting bodies of the fungus, which is in the wintering stage. The development of the disease contributes to the thickening of the bushes and high humidity.

Fight method.

timely, seasonal pruning. Preventive spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Beneficial features.

Juniper occupies a worthy place among medicinal plants in folk medicine. Its berry is used to stimulate appetite. Juniper is also used for flatulence, diarrhea, heartburn, cough, and in the complex treatment of biliary tract diseases. Extracts, decoctions, powders, infusions are made from juniper. They treat disorders, diseases of the kidneys and liver, dropsy.

Juniper berries contain essential oils, sugars, resins, organic acids and trace elements. Juniper needles are rich in ascorbic acid. The roots are rich in tannins and essential oils. Juniper is used for circulatory disorders and edema, as it has a diuretic property. Fresh berries have anthelmintic properties. Decoctions of juniper can improve blood composition. Berries are part of various tea collections. Together with other plants, it has an anti-inflammatory, bactericidal effect.

Juniper can not be used for ulcers, nephrosis, nephritis. Before treatment with juniper, you should consult a doctor and undergo an examination.

The content of the article:

Juniperus (Juniperus) botanists attributed to the genus of evergreen coniferous plants with a shrub or tree-like life form, and included in the Cypress family (Cupressaceae). Almost all representatives of the genus are distributed in the Northern Hemisphere, from the Arctic lands to mountainous regions with a subtropical climate, with the exception of only the East African juniper variety (Juniperus procera), which can be found on the African continent up to 18 degrees south latitude. And only the common juniper occupies rather large areas of growth, but the rest differ in that their ranges are rather limited, for example, only in mountainous areas.

A variety of common juniper is also known under the name veres, and the Turkic peoples also have a name for tree-like representatives, which was included in scientific works as "archa". The Latin name (according to one version) comes from joini-parus, which means "giving branches suitable for weaving", but there is other information that the term Juneprus will be translated as "thorny", all due to the fact that the leaves of some plant species have thorny outlines.

The juniper is tree-shaped, has a large size, with a height of 10–20 m. Other varieties of this plant can take the form of smaller trees or tall shrubs that settle in deciduous or coniferous forests. There are also stunted junipers in the genus or even with creeping shoots that feel good on rocky slopes and rocky surfaces, which are located at the upper border of the forests. The height of the juniper starts from half a meter.

The buds of the plant are bare, devoid of scales, occasionally they are surrounded by pressed, rather short leaves, and only in a variety of stone fruit juniper (Juniperus drupaceae) is present big number dense scales. Leaflets are collected in whorls of three units, their outlines are needle-shaped and scaly, they grow spaced, linear-lanceolate. At the base, the leaf is running down, and in its upper part there is a stomatal strip, there is also a median longitudinal vein, which takes on an undivided or divided look. When the plant is young, its foliage has the shape of needles; over time, juniper leaves look like small scales that grow, clinging to the shoots. Their location occasionally in three-membered whorls or they grow in opposite pairs.

The plant is dioecious. male flowers have the appearance of spikelets or earrings, they can grow both singly and in several pieces. Location on last year's or side shoots in the leaf axils. Scale-like stamens (3-4 pieces), connected in pairs-opposite or in whorls of three pieces. Each stamen has 3–6 longitudinally opening anthers. female flowers, crown shortened branches or grow terminal, taking the shape of cones. The flowering process occurs in June.

When fruiting, the cone ripens with the shape of a berry, it is called a cone berry. This fruitlet is indehiscent, its scales are fleshy and tightly closed, the shape is spherical or with a slight elongation. It contains 1-10 seeds inside, which grow separately, and in stone fruit juniper - with intergrowth. Full maturation of the cone comes in the second year from its formation. The plant bears fruit only from August to September.

Growing juniper on the site: planting and care

1. Boarding and seating. It is recommended to plant Veres in early spring as soon as the snow melts. You can plant young plants later, but then the needles can burn in the sun. If the landing is carried out in the fall, then there is a possibility that the juniper will not take root. When the root system of a plant is closed (that is, the root system is in an earthen coma), then planting is carried out at any time, even in summer, but it will be necessary to shade at noon from the scorching sun. The landing site should be sunny throughout the day. Only for a variety of common juniper, light shading is possible.
2. Soil for planting Veres. The acidity of the substrate is highly dependent on the type of plant. Ordinary, Cossack and Central Asian need alkaline soil. To do this, slaked lime or dolomite flour is introduced into the soil. The rest will need acidic soil, so peat and sand are added to the ground, they are also mulched with peat and sawdust. Sandy and sandy loamy soil is needed for the Siberian species, and the virgin one is suitable, clay soil into which compost is mixed. When planting in a hole, drainage is placed on the bottom from broken brick, large pebbles, expanded clay and sand. Layer thickness 15–25 cm.
3. Rules for planting juniper. When landing young plant, it is better that it is in a container up to 5 liters. So their engraftment is more successful, and planting is easier, especially if the veres has a closed root system. Adult specimens are planted with greater difficulty. Before planting, the earth lump should be moistened with plenty of water a couple of hours before the operation. To plant a juniper, the hole should be 2-3 times larger than the soil clod of the plant in width, length and depth. Fitted to the bottom drainage layer. Then the prepared soil is poured, in accordance with the type of heat. If the specimen is young, then the root neck should be located at the very surface of the substrate, in adults it should be 6–12 cm higher. After planting, the plant is watered abundantly, and it is recommended to mulch the near-stem circle. Suitable as mulch peat, wood chips, sawdust or pine bark, chips, carefully crushed cones or pine nut shells. The thickness of the mulch layer is 5–10 cm. When planting several specimens side by side, the distance between them depends on the variety: for small junipers - at least 0.5 m, if the species is large and sprawling - 1.5–2.5 m.
4. Watering. Juniper is quite drought-resistant, but if the summer is dry, then it should be watered once a month. You can carry out "shower" washings under the jet of a spray gun, garden hose or other sprayers. But such procedures are carried out in the morning or in the evening, so that the sun's rays do not harm the needles.
5. Juniper fertilizers. In spring, it is recommended to apply nitroammofoska to the soil under the bushes - 45 grams per 1 m2. Throughout all summer months Veres needs to be fertilized with mineral complexes and organics, with a frequency of once every 30 days. These top dressings are necessary if the plant grows more slowly than expected.
6. Transfer. For juniper, it is not recommended to disturb the root system, so it is not necessary to replant the plant. But if this is necessary, then the substrate is prepared on the basis of peat, sand and coniferous soil (equal parts). After transplantation, abundant watering is needed.
7. General care. Pruning is not required, but if a crown is formed, then the extra branches are removed. You can not cut off many shoots at once - it is fraught with diseases of Veres.

For the winter, juniper is covered in the first couple of years from planting with litrasil or agrofibre. For adult specimens, the crown is tied with a rope so that the snow cap does not break off the branches. It is recommended to periodically shake off the snow from the crown.

With the advent of spring, the shelter is not removed until the snow has completely melted (from the activation of the sun and the arrival of spring, they cover the crown with burlap), since the bright sun can burn the needles. As soon as the soil is completely freed from the snow cover, the shelter is removed, the debris from under the bush is removed, and the soil is loosened and a new layer of mulch is poured.

How to propagate juniper yourself?

You can get a new veres by sowing seeds or cuttings.

At seed propagation biennial cones are taken, during the period when they are darkening. If you collect completely dark fruits, then they will sprout for a very long time, as they "left" to rest (into "hibernation"). But even the seed material, which is collected according to the rules, sprouts for a rather long time. Then the seeds are stratified: they are placed on the surface of the soil, poured into a box, consisting of sand, peat and sphagnum moss. From above, the seeds are also sprinkled with the same substrate. For the winter, it is necessary to take the box outside and leave it there for 5 months under the snow.

In May, seeds can be planted on prepared beds in open ground. When the seedlings grow up, they are transferred to a permanent place.

When cutting in spring time the top of annual branches is cut off, but always with a part of the parent juniper. The length of the workpiece should not be less than 10 cm. The needles are removed from the handle and placed in a solution of a root formation stimulator. After a day, the cuttings are planted in a pot with a substrate of peat and sand. The soil is moistened, and the cuttings are placed under a cut plastic bottle or plastic bag. The place must be shaded.

It is recommended not to forget about airing and moistening the soil. After 30-50 days, the cuttings should take root. Then young veres seedlings are planted in open ground in a prepared place. For the winter, for support, you will need a shelter made of spruce or pine spruce branches. But such plants are planted in a permanent place after 2-3 years.

Diseases and pests that occur when caring for juniper

Of the diseases that affect varieties of heather, there are:

• rust, which arises from salting the substrate, the needles acquire a dirty orange color;
• when waterlogged, the needles turn yellow and then fly around, but drought also leads to the same;
• from rusty growths, immunostimulants and microfertilizers are used after the affected parts of the plant are removed;
• Schutte's fungus appears as small black growths on last year's needles, it will be necessary to cut and burn the affected parts, and treat them with copper and sulfur preparations;
• to prevent various fungal diseases, it is recommended to use copper sulfate.

The plant can be affected by aphids, scale insects and spider mite. For the fight, insecticidal and acaricidal agents are used.

There are specimens of juniper that live up to 600 years.

Where juniper grows, the air becomes much cleaner, in just 24 hours 1 hectare of thickets of these plants evaporates up to 30 kg of phytoncides - and this indicator, with which you can clean the atmosphere in a large city from pathogens and bacteria.

Veres cones are known for their beneficial properties to folk healers (namely, a variety of common juniper). Preparations that are made on their basis are used for diseases of the kidneys and bladder, due to the strong anti-inflammatory effect. A decoction of juniper is used externally, mainly for symptoms of dermatitis and eczema of various forms. Essential oil obtained from needles and shoots of juniper will help with the manifestation of rheumatism, polyarthritis, neuralgia and sciatica. Preparations made on the basis of veres roots are prescribed for the treatment of bronchitis, skin diseases and pulmonary tuberculosis. A decoction of the branches is also used for allergies.

The type of Cossack juniper is poisonous!

Due to pretty strong aroma juniper has long been used as spicy herb when preparing meals. Cone berries give meat and game a specific taste. In the wine and vodka industry, Veres is used to flavor gin.

Wood is also used by mankind, it is customary to make canes and pencils from it.

Important!!! In no case should juniper-based preparations be taken by pregnant women, as they can provoke a miscarriage.

Description of juniper species

Since there are quite a lot of juniper species, we will focus on the most popular ones.

Common juniper (Juniperus communis) is also referred to as Veres, the most common variety. Can withstand any adverse weather. It is a tree, with a height of 18 m, with many stems. Or it takes the form of a shrub, the branches of which can be 6 m in height, but these parameters depend on the plant variety. Crown conical or ovoid male plants it is narrower than that of women, more or less prostrate, or may be ascending. Branches at the ends hang down to the soil. The bark is dark gray or grayish-brown, there is longitudinal peeling, and shoots with a reddish-brown tint. Branches grow chaotically, sprawling.

Leaf plates with a length of 1–1.5 cm and a width of 0.7–7.5 mm. They grow sessile, with a hard surface, the shape of the leaf is linear-styloid or styloid-pointed, prickly, almost trihedral, the leaf is dense to the touch, shallow grooved at the top. There is also one undivided or divided to the middle whitish oyster strip, which follows along the central vein, in the lower part, painted in a brilliant green tone, there is a blunt keel. The arrangement of leaves on the shoots is ring-shaped, there are three pieces in each ring, they tend not to fall off for 4 years.

When flowering, buds appear with petals of yellow and light green color, monoecious, but more often dioecious. Male cones, which are called microstrobili, practically sit on the shoot, female cones are called cone berries, their number is multiple, they reach 5–9 mm in diameter, the color is first pale green. Their shape is oblong-ovoid or spherical, with a bluish-black tint and a waxy bluish coating when ripe (there may not be a coating). The pulp of cones is curative, viscous, but the fruits ripen for about 2–3 years. They consist of 2-3 scales and crown a short leg. There are 2–3 seeds in a cone, with a trihedral surface, their shape is elongated-ovoid or ovoid-conical, color is yellow-brown.

Growth areas fall on the lands of the Northern Hemisphere with a temperate climate.

Cossack juniper (Juniperus sabina) has a shrubby form of growth with creeping shoots. The height of this dioecious plant is 1–1.5 m. It grows at a high speed in width, creating dense thickets. Very rarely it can grow as a tree with a height of about 4 m, then the trunks are strongly curved. Reddish-brown bark peeling off. In the shoots there is essential oil they are poisonous.

The needles of two types: the length of the leaves in young plants is needle-shaped, erect with a pointed tip, equal in length to 4–6 mm, the color is bluish-green on top, the median vein stands out well; when the juniper becomes an adult, then its needles are scaly, it is located like a tile. It has a strong odor when rubbed. It stays on the branches for 3 years.

This variety is dioecious. Cone berries of drooping outlines, with a diameter of 5–7 mm, their color is brown-black, on the surface there is a bluish coating, their shape is round-oval, often there are two seeds inside. Seed maturation is in autumn period and spring the following year.

Grows in forests and groves located in steppe zone, as well as rocky mountain slopes and sand dunes, this variety can be found in the lower mountain belt and up to the upper one at altitudes of 1000-2300 meters above sea level.

For more information about planting juniper and caring for it, see the following video:

Popular varieties
Varieties of common juniper:
- ‘Green Carpet’. Creeping dense plant from 0.2 to 0.3 m tall and 1 to 1.5 m wide with dark green needles. Juniper ‘Green Carpet’ is very hardy.
- ‘Hibernica’. Dense, compact, slow growing shrub 3 to 4 m tall and 0.8 to 1.2 m wide. The color of the needles is from gray-green to bluish-green. Hibernica juniper must be harvested for the winter, as it may suffer from snowfall. Juniper ordinary Hibernika has a dense shape and almost does not change the color of the needles.
- ‘Meyer’. Compact, later openwork, vertically growing, columnar or conical shrub 3 to 5 m tall and 1 to 1.5 m wide with silvery green needles. It has a beautiful columnar shape.
- ‘Repanda’. A flat, carpet-forming shrub, 0.3 to 0.5 m tall and 1.5 to 2 m wide, with dark green needles. It grows very slowly. This variety is used as a groundcover.

Varieties of Chinese juniper:
- ‘Blaauw’. Broadly columnar shrub 1.5 to 2.5 m tall and 1 to 2 m wide. The needles are bluish-gray or bluish-green. Grows in the sun. Winter-hardy.
- ‘Blue Alps’. Upright, dense shrub 2 to 4 m tall and 1 to 2 m wide. The needles are prickly, silver-blue or bluish-green. Juniper ‘Blue Alps’ is winter-hardy.
- Cold Coast. Compact flat shrub 1 m tall and 2 to 3 m wide with golden needles. Grows in the sun.
- ‘Plumosa Aurea’. A stocky shrub 2 to 3 m tall and 3 to 4 m wide (funnel-shaped, prostrate or asymmetric). The needles are golden green in summer, yellow or bronze in winter. Grows in partial shade.
- ‘Spartan’. Slender, columnar, somewhat asymmetrical, dense shrub 1.5 to 3 m tall and 0.8 to 1.2 m wide. Juniper ‘Spartan’ has green or dark green needles. Of the variety of columnar junipers with gray needles, Chinese juniper ‘Spartan’ stands out for its green color.

Varieties of juniper horizontal:
- ‘Andorra Compact’. Initially cushion-shaped, then prostrate shrub 0.4 to 0.7 m tall and 2 to 3 m wide. The color of the needles is gray-green in summer and blue or crimson in winter. Juniper ‘Andorra Compact’ is very decorative, its branches rise up.
- 'Prince of Wales'. Dense, prostrate shrub 0.3 to 0.5 m tall and 1.5 to 3 m wide. The needles are pale green, changing color in winter (bronze-green). Very winter-hardy variety of juniper.
- ‘Wiltonii’. Widely procumbent, cushion-shaped, dense, dwarf shrub with creeping shoots. Height - from 0.2 to 0.3 m; width - from 1.5 to 3 m. Numerous blue berries with a bluish bloom are formed on the plant.
Varieties of juniper medium
- ‘Hetzii’. Broad shrub or asymmetric tree 2 to 5 m tall and 3 to 6 m wide with bluish-gray needles. A very picturesque variety of juniper with numerous dove-colored fruits, which are poisonous. Very hardy and hardy shrub.
- ‘Mint Julep’. Broad asymmetrical shrub 2 to 3 m tall and 2 to 4 m wide with very decorative bright green needles.
- ‘Old Gold’. Compact, broad shrub 1 to 2 m tall and 2 to 3 m wide. The needles are golden yellow in winter and bronze yellow in summer. Juniper ‘Old Gold’ is hardy.

Varieties of juniper Cossack:
- 'Mas'. Small, very winter-hardy, durable shrub 0.8 to 2 m high and 2 to 6 m wide. The shoots are short, horizontal, then inclined or vertically growing, the ends of the shoots are drooping. The needles are scaly, dark or bluish-green; bronze in winter. The plant does not tolerate salinity and stagnant moisture.
- 'Rockery Gem'. prostrate, dwarf variety juniper Cossack with creeping shoots from 0.4 to 0.8 m high and from 1.5 to 3 m wide. The needles are needle-shaped, gray-green or bluish-green. Resistant, winter-hardy plant; does not tolerate salinity and waterlogging.
- ‘Tamariscifolia’. Small, cushion-like shrub 0.5 to 0.8 m tall and 1.5 to 2 m wide with horizontal shoots. Juniper Cossack ‘Tamariscifolia’ is undemanding and very winter-hardy. The needles are needle-shaped, dark or bluish-green.

Varieties of juniper scaly:
- ‘Blue Carpet’. A prostrate dwarf shrub with creeping shoots from 0.3 to 0.8 m tall and 1.5 to 2.5 m wide. Juniper ‘Blue Carpet’ grows fast. The color of the needles is intense blue. Juniper ‘Blue Carpet’ is very resistant.
- ‘Blue Star’. A small, cushion-shaped, compact juniper ‘Blue Star’ reaches a height of 0.5 to 1 m; its width is from 0.7 to 1.5 m. The color of the needles is bright, silvery blue. Juniper ‘Blue Star’ lends itself well to molding.
- ‘Meyeri’. Large, upright, asymmetrical shrub 3 to 6 m tall and 2 to 4 m wide. The needles are bright, silver-blue. Ideal for topiary haircuts, becomes denser after trimming. Does not tolerate heavy soils. It is better to plant in places protected from the wind.

Varieties of rocky juniper:
- ‘Skyrocket’. Dense columnar shrub 5 to 8 m high and 0.5 to 1 m wide. The needles are scaly, gray-green or bluish-green. Juniper rocky ‘Skyrocket’ does not tolerate shade, grows only in the sun. Juniper rocky ‘Skyrocket’ has a very deep root system, therefore it is resistant to gusts of wind. The shrub is frost-resistant, drought-resistant, tolerates high temperatures. Juniper ‘Skyrocket’ grows in any well-drained soil.
- ‘Blue arrow’. Juniper ‘Blue arrow’ is a narrow-columnar shrub from 5 to 8 m high and 0.5 to 1 m wide. Rocky juniper ‘Blue arrow’ grows in the sun, does not tolerate shade. The plant is undemanding to soil conditions, grows on well-drained substrates. Juniper ‘Blue Arrow’ is similar in its characteristics to rocky juniper ‘Skyrocket’, but has a denser columnar shape. Rock Juniper ‘Blue arrow’ is resistant to snow damage.

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