At what temperature can seedlings be planted in spring. When to plant trees in spring? Benefits of planting in the spring

" Trees

A transplant for a plant is a traumatic operation, which is best done during a period of natural dormancy, then it takes place practically “under anesthesia”. This is especially true for seedlings with bare roots.

Majority fruit trees better to plant permanent place after the completion of the vegetation processes - in the fall. Tentatively, this is a month before the freezing of the topsoil. Some trees are best planted in the spring. Let's talk in more detail about the timing of planting seedlings of fruit trees, how to fertilize and properly care for them.

Determining that a tree is ready for transplanting is very simple. The main criterion is that the tree dropped half of the leaves. They are guided when planting apple trees, as well as all berry bushes.

The roots of bushes and trees do not have a dormant period; they continue to grow in winter. Optimum temperature for rooting +4 o C and above. Given that the ground does not freeze so soon, root growth continues almost without a winter break.

Varieties of apple and pear trees with insufficient frost resistance, as well as all stone fruits(cherries, sweet cherries, plums, apricots and peaches), best planted in spring. Moreover, it is necessary to do this as early as possible - until the moisture has left and the buds have not blossomed.

In any case, the landing pits are prepared in advance - for spring planting, for example, from autumn (August - September). The deadline for preparing the pits is 2 weeks.

How to choose a seedling for planting in the suburbs and other regions

In order not to throw money away and grow a really productive fruit tree, the choice of a seedling should be approached with understanding and responsibly.

Choosing a seedling with an open root system

1. Primarily, variety must be zoned.
2. To increase the likelihood of buying the desired variety, buy them in a specialized nursery, and not "from the hands" by the road.
3. Roots must be no shorter than 25 centimeters fresh and undamaged. The more branched thin roots, the higher the likelihood of success.
4. On the roots there shouldn't be any bumps is a symptom of root cancer. The cut of the root should be white.
5. Carefully inspect the trunk for cortical damage.

When buying a seedling with leaves, carefully cut them off - the seedling will not lose moisture.

Wrap the roots with wet burlap or newspaper in several layers. If the seedling is still dry, immerse it in water for a day or two, until the bark returns to its fresh appearance.

You can treat the roots with stimulants before planting(Kornevin or Heteroauxin) according to the instructions.

Especially make sure that the roots are not soaked. These areas will probably rot - they must be carefully removed to a healthy part.

Choosing a seedling in a container

Such planting material expensive. If you choose it correctly, you can land at any time convenient for you. Survival guaranteed...

How not to make a mistake

The easiest way to check how long a tree has been growing in a pot is to gently lift the plant by the root part. If the earth ball is removed along with the roots, you need to buy - the seedling "lives" in the container for a long time.

Additionally, it will help you make sure you make the right choice. a root that has grown through a hole in the bottom of a container.

When choosing a container seedling, of the two - take the younger one in age. Its roots are most certainly not pruned before planting in a pot for sale.

The tree is installed in a prepared planting hole, without violating the integrity of the earth coma. Watered and covered with prepared soil mixture without deepening the seedling.

Rules for planting a seedling in a garden plot at different times of the year?

The choice of a place for planting a fruit tree - it is produced once and for all, success or disappointment depends on this choice. If the place turns out to be unsuitable for a fruit tree, after a few years it will be impossible to correct the mistake.

Choose to board sunny place protected from the wind. Proximity ground water unacceptable - a tree can successfully develop for 5-7 years, and when its roots reach the aquifer, it will die from decay. At this age, replanting a tree is already incredibly difficult.

Preparatory activities

Even the choice of soil is not so critical for planting a fruit tree. By improving the soil structure and correct dressings almost any area is suitable for gardening.

Landing hole preparation

Even in the case of fertile black soil, it is necessary to start planting a tree by preparing a landing pit. It must be dug at least a month before planting a seedling. During this time, the dug up earth will have time to compact. This is a factor of extraordinary importance - there will be no problems with the correct deepening of the root neck of the seedling.

Root neck - where is it?

It would be useful to clarify what this “root neck” is. Often not experienced gardeners the place of vaccination is taken for the root collar, and as a result, the seedling is buried by an extra 10 centimeters. In fact, this is the area where the trunk meets the root. At this point, the dark color of the root turns into a lighter bark of the bole.

The most common mistake is landing in a fresh hole. Strictly speaking, it's not in the pit itself. Until the earth sags, it is very difficult to properly deepen the root collar of the seedling. It is known that it can neither be deepened nor exposed - the tree will not be able to develop normally in both cases.

After planting, the seedling should not experience a lack of nutrients, at least until it takes root. At this stage, very often, out of good intentions, gardeners “overfeed” seedlings with fertilizers.

It is especially dangerous for young plants to add fresh organic matter to the pit and too a large number of mineral fertilizers. These two extremes act equally depressingly on soil microorganisms, namely, they help the roots of the seedling to absorb nutrients from soil and air.

1. For a conditioned seedling of 1-2 years of age, it is necessary dig a hole about 80x80 centimeters in size and the same depth. In the process of digging a hole, fold the upper, more fertile layer separately from the lower one. Remove all stones and roots of perennial weeds. The bottom of the pit must be dug up with a shovel bayonet.
2. To the bottom of the pit for improvement water balance desirable pour last year's leaves, house garbage, wood ash . This will not only be good drainage, but also an excellent additional top dressing for the tree.
3. into the pit add 2 buckets of compost or humus, and proceed as follows.
4. One bucket is mixed with the more fertile soil of the upper layer and poured into the bottom of the pit. You install a seedling on this mound, straighten its roots and pour the second part of the compost directly onto the roots. At the same time, shake the seedling so that there are no air voids that are not filled with soil.
5. I water well t (minimum 2 buckets of water).
6. The pit is filled to the top. For this, only the upper fertile layer is used.
7. From the bottom layer of the earth form a root hole around the trunk circle.
8. Water again into the formed hole and cover it with mulch(peat, rotten sawdust, foliage, wood chips), this will not only retain water, but also prevent a dense crust from forming.

When planting, it is better to deepen the root neck insufficiently. This option is easy to fix by pouring earth into the trunk circle.

Planting scheme for fruit trees and shrubs

The density of planting trees depends not only on the species, but also on:

• type of root stock of a seedling,
• way of further formation,
• site planning features.

The most common mistake novice gardeners make is planting too tightly.. It is very difficult to see trees at least 2.5 meters high in twigs of one-year-old seedlings in 10 years. The recommended scheme for planting shrubs and trees is given below.

and pears on vigorous rootstocks are located at a distance of 5 meters, medium-sized - 3.5-4 meters, dwarf - 2.5-3 meters. Columnar forms can be planted even after 0.5 meters in a row.

No less distance should be laid when planting seedlings near the house, this especially applies to tall fruit forms, and especially pay close attention to the location- over time, it will be a 10-meter sprawling tree.

To rationally use the area between the seedlings, plant currant bushes between the rows for the time being (in 10 years it will still have to be uprooted - the bush will grow old) or garden strawberries.

Caring for a newly planted tree in spring and autumn

After landing young tree in addition to feeding the seedling, it must have proper aftercare. The first time after planting, most seedlings need watering. There is an opinion among experienced old school gardeners that seedlings need watering for 2 years, even if they have taken root successfully. Even trees planted in autumn need to be watered until frost.. Only then will the tree grow strong and healthy.

No matter how great the desire to try the harvest from a young tree, the first flowers must be removed. This is especially true for the first year after planting, otherwise the tree will give all its strength to the first few fruits, and it will not be able to grow the root system and a developed crown.

In addition to watering young tree requires preventive measures to protect against pests and fungal diseases. Do not bypass them during each garden treatment. The loss of branches and leaves from pests or disease can be critical for a young tree.

Preparing young trees for winter includes:

• mulching trunk circle,
• whitewashing the trunk for the prevention of solar and frosty winter burns,
• rodent protection and hares.

The mulching layer must necessarily cover the near-stem circle, not only in summer period to retain moisture in the root zone. Mulch is especially necessary in autumn-winter period. Even under conditions Middle lane and Moscow region, the roots of a tree or shrub seedling may suffer from freezing, especially if the snow cover is negligible.

Fertilizers and top dressing for a fruit tree

A well-filled planting hole provides nutrition for a planted tree for 2 years. In practice, it only needs watering.

Fertilizing the garden is carried out according to the established rule:

1. spring- nitrogen and organic fertilizers,
2. autumn- potassium and phosphorus.

Fertilization is usually done in trunk circles early spring (1) or autumn (2).

Fertilizers are applied to the root zone at the rate of 1 hectare of the garden:

• organic 300-500 kg (every 2-3 years),
• inorganic N:P:K in proportions 1.5:1:0.6 (in terms of kg of chemically pure substance).

In addition to root dressings, gardeners often practice foliar dressings. In this case, the so-called “tank mixtures” are used - joint solutions chemicals, for example, against pests and a complex of foliar dressings.

Foliar dressings, unlike root dressings, have an effect almost instantly. Through the surface of the leaves, they are absorbed by the garden plant after 4 hours. This process is especially active on the underside of the sheet.

Another "plus" of such processing- fertilizer consumption is minimal. For example, for nitrogen fertilizing, a solution of 1 tablespoon of saltpeter is prepared for 1 bucket of water.

The only inconvenience is that it cannot be processed immediately before the rain.

Another important point, it is better to “underfeed” the garden with any fertilizer ...

Conclusion

The optimal time for planting fruit trees depends on many factors:

• From climatic conditions your region.
• From the winter hardiness of the seedling.
• From the type of seedling - container or with a "bare root".

In order not to get confused, Ukrainian gardeners have an old rule, which is all the more necessary for colder regions- all stone fruits are planted in spring, pome fruits - in autumn.

breakdown orchard- is a tedious process. Before planting seedlings of fruit trees, there is a lot of work to be done: choose the right planting material, decide on the deadline, prepare the pit in advance, take care of the support. And, of course, there will be a lot of worries in the future: caring for any plants is not easy, but carefully grown crops in the garden will surely thank you with a bountiful harvest.

Traditionally, spring is the main time of the year when summer residents plant and transplant garden plants. No wonder a well-known proverb says that a man must not only build a house, raise a son, but also plant a tree. Planting seedlings can be considered a real art, and before you carry it out, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of this process.

How to plant seedlings of trees so that they grow strong, healthy and prolific?

How to choose fruit tree seedlings

Seedlings for planting should be chosen wisely. Of course, it is best to purchase plants for planting in specialized farms or from reputable sellers who, if necessary, will help with advice.

When buying seedlings of fruit trees for planting in the garden, pay attention to the label that is attached to the seedling - it should contain information about the breed and variety of the plant. Inspect the seedling before you buy it. It should have an even trunk, the crown should not be skewed, the branches should be evenly distributed throughout the trunk. Count skeletal branches- there must be at least three of them. The plant should not show any signs of disease or damage.

If the seedling is planted in a container, inspect it as well. Roots should not peek out of the drainage hole. If the seedling is packed, then the clod of earth should be dense and proportional. If possible, inspect the roots of the plant. They should not be damaged, withered parts and signs of disease.

Terms of planting seedlings of fruit trees

There are only two terms for planting seedlings of fruit trees - in autumn and spring. In autumn, seedlings are planted with an open root system, winter-hardy varieties apple trees, pears, as well as currant, chokeberry, raspberry, gooseberry bushes.

If seedlings have an open root system, but they do not belong to winter-hardy varieties, it is better to plant them in the spring. This is an apple tree, sea buckthorn,. When planting seedlings of fruit trees in the spring, it is especially important to ensure that the soil does not dry out after planting. Therefore, work should be done in early spring when the ground is still quite wet, and the buds have not yet blossomed. landing pits it is better to prepare in advance - experienced gardeners do it in the fall.

seedlings fruit trees with a closed root system, if the roots are covered earthy clod, can be planted both in spring and autumn. In this case, you should not rush. You can start work from mid-April. If the plants already have leaves, it is necessary to choose a cloudy day for planting or shade the crown for the first time with gauze.

If you purchased seedlings in containers, you can plant them in the summer, while the main thing is to make sure that the roots are not overdried.

How to plant seedlings of fruit trees

Before planting fruit trees in spring or autumn, you need to map out a place. Keep in mind that the tree will continue to grow and develop long years, therefore, the scale of its growth and development should be foreseen in advance. The hole to be dug should be twice the diameter earthy coma with roots. When digging a hole fertile upper layer soil is sent in one direction, and the bottom layer in the other. The earth at the bottom of the finished hole should be loosened so that the roots can go deep into it.

Planting land must be fertilized. To do this, the top fertile soil layer is mixed with humus or ripened compost and a suitable mineral fertilizer is added to it.

When planting tree seedlings in autumn, summer or spring, a stake is first driven in. This must be done before planting so as not to hurt the roots. big plants then they will rest on a support. Now you can put the seedling at the bottom of the pit. First you need to pour a little prepared earthen mixture, and place a seedling vertically on it. The root ball should not be sunk into the ground.

The hole is covered with earth. At the same time, the level of the earth around the trunk should be 5 cm higher than the level of the soil around it. This is done taking into account the fact that the earth will settle in the future.

The seedling must be tied to a support with a soft twine, from which a loop in the form of a figure eight is knitted. For proper fit tree seedlings in spring or other seasons, do not wrap the trunk too tightly. Now you can compact the earth around the trunk, make a circle of soil in a circle and shed the planting well. At the last stage, it is necessary to sprinkle the trunk circle with humus or peat with a layer 5 cm thick.

Many experienced gardeners plant fruit trees with equal success in autumn and spring. True, it is believed that the autumn planting of fruit trees is suitable mainly for southern regions, for Siberia and the Urals (there, freshly planted plants are protected from severe winter frosts by a solid snow cover). For northern and central regions spring planting is more suitable - in extreme cases, the boles of seedlings are strengthened, hilling them for the upcoming winter.

When to plant?

The main rule of landing is that it should be carried out during the rest period. In the spring - this is the time from thawing the soil to the start of active sap flow, in the fall - after leaf fall, in preparation for winter sleep. The second dormant period lasts longer, and this is already a point in favor of the autumn planting.

In the spring - this is the time from thawing the soil to the start of active sap flow, in the fall - after leaf fall, in preparation for winter sleep

But usually the choice of gardeners is influenced by the fact that in autumn the range of seedlings offered by nurseries is much richer than in spring, and prices are usually more attractive. And it makes little sense to buy seedlings in the fall and leave them in a prikope until spring - the climate in last years unpredictable, and abnormally warm, and abnormally Cold winter could be fatal for such a winter.

toliam1 FORUMHOUSE Consultant

Both I and my clients plant everything only in the fall. Before winter is far away, the seedlings have time to get used to the ground, in warm winter Root growth is also possible. And in the spring immediately "to battle." When planting in the spring, one season is lost.

What to plant?

Planting trees in autumn has its own characteristics. For her, it is better to choose 1-2 year old seedlings with mature shoots - then the likelihood increases that the plant will endure the winter better. The shoots of the seedling along the entire length should be lignified, with fully formed buds.

Three-year-old seedlings are sold less often, but it’s for the better: at this age, the apple tree already has pretty decent roots, and when the plant is dug up for sale, they have to be severely cut. That is, serious wounds are inflicted on the tree, and it takes root much worse.

lulu FORUMHOUSE User

The older the apple tree, the longer and thicker its roots, the more wounds are inflicted during digging.

Zoned and winter-hardy varieties of fruit trees are suitable for autumn planting, for example, Siberian and Ural selection.

How well a plant will take root depends on the condition of the root system. Unfortunately, many have encountered the fact that plum or cherry seedlings freeze even during transportation to the country house, because their absorbent roots do not tolerate temperatures as low as +3 - +4 degrees. Unlike seedlings with ACS, seedlings with a closed root system practically do not suffer during planting (in fact, this is the same transshipment, and often plants hardly even notice it). But seedlings with ZKS must be of high quality: the root system is tightly held in a coma of the earth, but does not braid it around, the seedling is not removed from the container easily and freely. It happens, unfortunately, and so, the seller does not grow a seedling in a container, but places it there before planting.

Tatuniki FORUMHOUSE User

When buying a seedling with ZKS, you should check if it grew in a pot, or if it was stuffed there before selling.

If you are not sure about the quality of such a seedling, it is better to buy good seedling with OKS.

The optimal time for the autumn planting of a fruit tree is two, or better, three weeks before frost. Depending on the region, this may be either the end of September or the end of October. During the “rest period”, the aerial part of the tree stops growing, but the roots grow until the soil temperature is higher than +4 degrees. It turns out that if you guess with the planting date, then before the onset of frost, new trees in your garden will have time to grow absorbent roots. And this means that in the spring they will begin to grow earlier than those planted in the spring, and the traditional spring vagaries of the weather will be met already strengthened.

If the roots of the seedling have dried up, it will be necessary to hold them in water for a day before planting.

How to plant?

FORUMHOUSE user Tamara Nikolaev plants fruit according to all the rules of horticultural science: with an assistant, in well-prepared pits measuring 1.5x1.3. And on average, the dimensions of the landing pits are usually as follows:

For trees on vigorous rootstocks:
120x80 cm (apple and pear),
100x60 cm (plums and cherries).
For semi-dwarf and dwarf:
80x50 cm.
The pit for the seedling with the ZKS should be twice as large as the container.

To protect against spring waterlogging, Tamara pours 30-40 cm of expanded clay at the bottom of the pit and prepares the soil in advance:

-3 buckets of rotted manure;
- 1 bucket of "native" soil;
- 2 buckets of good vegetable soil.

Any trees can be planted in such soil, and in the first year there will be no need to feed them. When preparing the soil, we must forget the phrase " nitrogen fertilizers”- and we remember that they include chicken and other bird droppings. In general, fertilizers must be applied very carefully when planting, as they can burn the roots. You can separate them from the roots with a layer of neutral soil, or you can not make them at all - wait until the trees "come to life" and bring them into the punctures. Sometimes it is recommended to apply peat - FORUMHOUSE experts say that it acidifies the soil, therefore, before applying, it will definitely need to be deoxidized.

Landing Tamara does this: expanded clay is poured into the bottom of the pit, leveling it; on top of a third of the pit, he adds the prepared soil, compacts it, spills it with water, pours the dry soil into a mound, gently spreads the roots over it.

The root neck of the planted seedling should be located exactly at the level of the soil, not deeper and not higher. .

A board is placed on top of the pit and the level of the root neck is checked - it should be located EXACTLY at the level of the board. That is, the root collar of the planted seedling should be located exactly at the level of the soil, not deeper and not higher. .

lulu FORUMHOUSE User

Look at the place where the trunk ends and the roots begin directly. This point of transition of the trunk to the roots should be at ground level. Strictly.

If the root neck is located high, the roots will be exposed, and over time the apple tree will dry out. If you deepen it, then it will constantly get wet and rot. Such a tree will turn green and even bloom, but you will not wait for the fruits from it.

After checking the level of the root neck, the assistant fills the hole with prepared soil and compacts it, then, regardless of the weather (let the soil settle quickly), the tree is well watered, tree trunks are formed and mulched with peat.

Let's go back to the root neck again. Beginning gardeners often confuse it with grafting. There is such a gardening trick: take a damp cloth and rub it on the seedling where the root goes into the trunk. You will see a place where the brown root turns into a greenish trunk. This is exactly what this place is about.

When planting seedlings, it is important how the groundwater level is located on your site, and what is the composition of the soil. If the GWL is close, the roots of your young trees may be in the water. In principle, this can be avoided.

On the question of when to start planting seedlings in the ground, there are different opinions. Someone focuses on personal experience or advice from older relatives, for someone good example– neighbors who receive from year to year excellent harvest. As for specialists, their numerous disputes do not subside, since everyone has their own point of view.

But if we sum up the various opinions, it turns out that for most of the territory of Russia it is spring - best period for planting "young growth" of almost all fruit trees.

The fact is that the peculiarity of our climate is such that many seedlings planted in the fall do not have time to “take root” well. One of the reasons is that in order for the plant to independently extract moisture from the soil with all the substances necessary for the full development, it takes at least 2 months.

Unfortunately, early frosts do not give this time. As a result - "freezing" or drying of "young growth". Therefore, the recommendation for autumn planting seedlings has many opponents.

Let's take a closer look at the procedure for spring planting seedlings of fruit trees in the country or in the garden of your home.

Plot layout

Some features of the landing must be taken into account in cases where the territory is already equipped. The principle of "where there is free place' does not apply here. What to consider:

Type of seedlings. Each of the plants is characterized by a certain height, features of the crown and root system. If you do not take into account the specifics of development, then there is a possibility that subsequently the trees will "interfere" with each other. For example, taller ones to shade undersized, intensively growing sideways will be intertwined with branches.

Compatibility. Gardeners who do not have sufficient experience do not take this factor into account. But there are special tables with recommendations on which plants can be planted nearby, and which are not worth it. On any suburban area(namely, we are talking about them, since a professional does not need tips), in addition to fruit trees, there are beds with their own plantings, and various shrubs(fruit, decorative).

Place in the garden. If there are any buildings on the territory or it is shaded by something (for example, other trees growing on the adjacent one), then it is advisable to place the seedlings so that they are illuminated by direct rays for most of the day.

Preparation of "landing" pits

Since the conversation is about spring landing tree seedlings, then it is necessary to prepare a place in advance, since autumn (although this is not necessary). In this case, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil. Depending on this, the sizes of the holes are selected. Recommendations are different. For example, if the soil is soft and fertile, then the side of the conditional “cube” of the hole is about 70 cm. On loams and sandstones, it increases to 1 m.

You need to understand the meaning of landing. In chernozem, the hole does not have to be wide and deep. The roots of the plant will "find their way" themselves, and the soil is already a nutrient medium. If the soil is “depleted”, then enriched soil will have to be poured into the pit, therefore its dimensions should be larger.

In the process of work, the earth is “stored”, for which the top layer of the excavated soil (fertile) is laid separately from the “internal”, since the latter will have to be “feeded” (mixed with compost, humus).

A separate conversation is about areas where underground layers of water come close to the surface (read about). The plant should not be buried on them, otherwise there is a risk of root rot. In such cases, compost is used, a mixture of earth with peat or black soil, which are poured in a heap.

The bottom of the hole "softens up". To do this, it is dug up with a shovel by at least half of the bayonet.

Preparing stakes and seedlings

They will definitely be needed for gartering young animals. The wood is dried and processed; at least that part of it that will be immersed in the ground. So that such a support does not rot ahead of time, you can dip it into liquid tar, burn it, tar it - there are enough options for protection against liquid.

Each of the trees must be carefully examined, especially the roots. The dried shoots are immediately removed, after which the root system is immersed in warm water for a day.

Planting a seedling

First, a support is installed at the bottom of the hole, after which water is poured. After it has been absorbed into the soil, a mixture of earth with humus or something else (this has already been said) is poured into the soil with the expectation that a tubercle forms. A seedling (with straightened roots) is placed on this mound, its base is sprinkled and slightly crushed, after which it is spilled with water. Such work is carried out in several stages: a layer of earth - light compaction - watering.

It should be taken into account that the root neck should be flush with the surface after the "subsidence" of the soil. Therefore, when a plant is placed in a hole, it rises about 50 mm above the ground.

After the end of the landing along the perimeter, the hole is surrounded by a shaft of earth so that the sides of such a kind of bowl are formed. In this case, during subsequent irrigation, the water will not spread over the territory.

Mulching

Roots young plant very delicate, so they should be protected even after they are sprinkled with soil. It is for this purpose that a protective layer is poured around the tree. Its task is to prevent overheating of the soil in this place. You can use everything that is at hand - chopped wood or bark (sawdust, shavings), dry needles, humus from.

Further care

After a day or two, you need to add a mixture of humus and soil under the tree and shorten the support if it is too long. In conclusion, tie a trunk to it.

Well, how specifically to care for the "young" in the process of growth is a topic for a separate discussion. For example, how to protect young leaves from burns, with what intensity to water and fertilize, and so on.

So let's recap everything important points things to consider when boarding:

Time

Any person, even not a specialist in the field of crop production, has heard of the so-called "lunar cycles". Special calendars go on sale every year, aimed primarily at people who are involved in varying degrees of caring for plantings, whether it's beds on the site or home flowers on the windowsill.

They have all the necessary information lunar days, phases, signs of the zodiac in which the “heavenly Goddess” is currently located) and recommendations for planting various kinds plants depending on these factors. Similar information can be found in almost any "tear-off" calendar.

It is not worth working with seedlings on any free day. Right choice planting time will determine how the seedling will “take root” and develop, and what crop can subsequently be expected. These rules should not be neglected, especially since these are the laws of nature, and all of them have been repeatedly tested by practice. For example, trees best planted in the ground before the full moon. Anyone who really wants his work to give the desired effect should be guided by the data from the lunar calendar.

But that's not all. For example, several days in a month are suitable for planting seedlings. Which to choose? Here you should also ask about the weather forecast or just look out the window (if the event is planned for today). The most the best weather is windless, besides, when the sky is "covered" by clouds. Seedlings (especially the root system) are easily exposed to external influences(scorching rays, gusts of wind), and this must be taken into account.

There is one more rule. It is necessary to "guess" so that the shoots have not yet grown, and the ground has already thawed. At this time, if all the above conditions coincide, you can start planting.

Seedling Features

Any plant, regardless of species and variety, develops unevenly. Even the smallest branches that "looked" to the south will look stronger, therefore, the future crown will be asymmetric. To avoid this, when planting "young animals" you need to make sure that those that are stronger are oriented towards north side plot, and "stubby" - to the south.

Purchase of seedlings

In order to guarantee that the tree will develop well and bear fruit, you need to pay attention to such points:

• "youngsters" must be adapted to local conditions, therefore, it is not worth buying imported trees;
• the best age for a seedling is considered to be a period of 2 years;
• you should carefully examine the trunk. It should not have mechanical damage, burns, signs of disease;
• the root system has 4 - 5 branches, no less. Them optimal length- about 25 cm. If they look shrunken and break easily, then you should refuse to buy.