Growing watermelons in the Far East open. Growing watermelons in Siberia. Transplanted into a greenhouse

Watermelons are no longer a curiosity in our gardens. Every year more and more gardeners learn that growing watermelons in a greenhouse is a simple process, similar to caring for cucumbers. Follow the agricultural practices of the berry, and it will delight you with sweet and environmentally friendly fruits.

Greenhouse conditions

Today, with the development of breeding and agronomy, it has become possible cultivation watermelons in Siberia in open ground. But greenhouse watermelons tastier and easier to care for. You just need to properly prepare the greenhouse.

Training

We are starting to prepare for the winter. What should be the greenhouse in order to grow a rich harvest in it?

the height of the structure should be about 2 meters, because the liana of the plant will curl vertically;
keep low humidity in the greenhouse, as watermelons are a drought-resistant crop, high humidity they are affected by fungal diseases.

As soon as the snow has melted, begin preparing the structure and land for planting seedlings. The plant loves heat very much, so make sure that there is no draft in the greenhouse. Apply manure to the ground - it will fertilize well and warm the soil, protect it in frost. Also prepare a covering material in case the temperature drops. Although you can use it even before planting seedlings - cover the ground with it so that it warms up. Watering immediately before planting is welcome. hot water.

Unusual way of landing

An alternative to the greenhouse is the cultivation of watermelons in the Urals in a barrel. Someone probably already tried to plant cucumbers or zucchini in a barrel. It turns out that the same can be done with watermelons. By growing in a barrel, you save space, protect the plant from high humidity and fungal diseases. Moreover, they do not need to be hung. Put compost and manure in it - the “bed” is ready.

seeds

The secrets of growing watermelons begin with the purchase of seeds. Which seeds are correct?

acclimatized to your area;
with a short ripening period - from the appearance of the ovary to the collection (no more than 80 days);
with fruits small size- up to 6-7 kg.

Pay attention to the date of their production: whether the expiration date is observed.

The best varieties

No matter what quality greenhouse you purchase, not all watermelon varieties will be able to ripen here. What varieties are suitable for the middle lane and for growing watermelons in the Far East?

Watermelon Spark - it is possible to grow it in middle lane. It has a fast ripening period, small berries and a sweet taste.
Watermelon Sugar baby - its cultivation is possible in northern regions. This is an early ripening, disease-resistant variety that will delight you with delicious fruits.

Sowing and caring for seedlings

You can sow watermelon seeds for seedlings in mid-late April. Soak the seeds in warm water so that they are not completely covered with water. You can use a growth stimulator when soaking - Epin or Zircon. Once the seeds have swollen, plant in peat pots whose circumference does not exceed 10 cm.

Lay the swollen seeds on their side so the leaves break through the hard shell more easily. If the seed is not swollen, it is useless to plant it.

When growing watermelon at home, follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners:

The optimum temperature for planting is 22-25 degrees.
Earth is a mixture garden soil and humus.
Fertilizers - twice, the first time - 10 days after sowing.
The place for seedlings is the sunniest.

Help growing seedlings with fluorescent lamps which will provide the plant with round-the-clock light. So it won't stretch.

disembarkation

The most common doubt when transplanting gourds: when should they be transplanted into a greenhouse? There is no need to hurry. When the frosts are behind and the daytime temperature reaches 20 degrees, move the seedling boxes from the house. She has already managed to grow enough, and peat pots will allow her to take root faster.

When planting watermelon sprouts, leave half a meter between them and pour warm water.

The technology for growing watermelons in open ground is almost the same as in a greenhouse. At first, cover street watermelons with a film.

Care

Growing and caring for an unpretentious watermelon in a greenhouse is quite simple:

Airing. AT hot weather(25-30 degrees) ventilate the greenhouse.
Watering. Water melons rarely, but plentifully - with warm water right under the root.
Fertilizer. As soon as the plant has grown to 30 cm, fertilize it with ammonium nitrate or nitrogen for the first time, the second time during flowering.
Formation. As soon as the sprout has a fifth leaf, pinch it. And when the ovaries are rounded and reach the size of a plum, leave one on each lash. In total, keep no more than 3 lashes.
Tying up. The trellis will save space and get rid of rotting. When the vine stretches along it, tie up the stem.
Hanging fruit. To prevent ever-growing watermelons from breaking the stem, hang them in a net.

Harvesting

By the end of summer, you can’t wait to try your own, Siberian or Ural, self-grown watermelon. When is it considered ripe?

with a bright and contrasting pattern;
with a dull sound when tapped;
with dried fruit.

Growing watermelons in the open field will also bear fruit. By planting them in both places, you can compare the result with the whole family.

Stop watering your watermelons a few days before harvest to make them even sweeter.

Sweet, fragrant fruit will make your whole family happy. And you will be calm for family health, because all the conditions for growing watermelons were met.

Seeds germinate at an air temperature not lower than 16-18 °C, the optimum temperature for this is 30-35 °C. In the latter case, seedlings appear 9-10 days after sowing, at low temperatures - only after 30 or more. best temperature air for the growth and development of plants 25-30 ° C, at 15 ° C and below, development is delayed. For seedlings, frosts down to -1 C are detrimental, for adult plants - a long decrease in temperature to only 3-10 ° C. Watermelon does not tolerate shading, less heat-resistant than melon and pumpkin.

AGRICULTURAL TECHNIQUE

Seeds are kept in the sun for 7-10 days, then soaked until pecking begins and hardened with variable temperatures: 12 hours at 15-18 ° C, 12 hours at 2 ... -2 ° C, and so on for 5-7 days. The most viable seeds after 1-2 years of storage, after 3-4 years they lose their sowing qualities. outdoor seeds early varieties sow on May 3-10 to a depth of 4-6 cm according to the scheme 1.4x1.4 or 2.1x1 m (Stokes 647/649-1.4x0.7 m). Under the autumn digging contribute, g / m2: ammonium nitrate- 20-25, granulated superphosphate - 30-35, potassium sulfate - 10-12 and manure compost 1-2 kg/m.

In the middle lane, in Western Siberia, in the Far East, watermelons are grown through seedlings planted under film shelters. Germinated seeds for seedlings are sown to a depth of 5-7 cm in 10x10 cm pots with a nutrient mixture of rotted manure (humus) and soddy soil in a ratio of 3:1. The temperature is maintained: until germination 25 ° C, then 4 days 18; then in the daytime 22, at night 18 °C. 5-6 days after germination, they are fed with chicken manure (1:15) with the addition of 5 g of phosphoric and 30 g potash fertilizers according to the active substance (according to the active ingredient) per 10 liters of water. 25-30-day-old seedlings are planted in the soil from ventilated lowland peat, sawdust and mullein in a ratio of 4:3:3 with the addition of three tablespoons of nitrophoska and one superphosphate or two buckets of manure with the addition of three tablespoons of nitrophoska and one superphosphate per 1 m2. The scheme of planting seedlings in film shelters and greenhouses 0.7x0.7 m.

In the absence of insects, pollinate by hand at an air temperature of 18-25 ° C, picking male flower and applying anthers to the stigma female flower. Watermelon fruit can accumulate a lot of nitrates. They are contained mainly in the crust and adjacent parts, but with excessive application nitrogen fertilizers may accumulate in the pulp. In the latter case, the clearly marked light thin nutritive threads of the pulp acquire an unpleasant orange-yellow color.

VARIETIES FOR OPEN GROUND

early ripe. Rose of the Southeast. The plant is large. The length of the main lash is 2 m or more. The fruit is spherical and elongated-spherical, weighing 2.5-3.6 kg. The surface is segmented or smooth, in some years it is prone to cracking, the background is light green, the pattern is wide green blurred stripes that almost cover the background. The bark is of medium thickness (up to 1.5 cm), flexible. The pulp is carmine-red, granular, juicy, sweet. Contains dry matter - 8.6-13%, sugars - 7.9-9.6%, vitamin C 4.4-5.1 mg%; fruit taste - 4.4-4.8 points. Seeds of medium size (1.3-1.5 cm in length), grayish-yellow, weighing 44-46 g in one fruit. From full shoots to the first harvest, 78-83 days pass. Productivity is 1.9-2.6 kg/m2. Marketability 84-93%. Transportability is good. Lightness is weak. Powdery mildew and Fusarium wilt affect the variety to a moderate to severe extent.

Stokes 647/649. One of the fastest. The plant is short-branched - the length of the main lash is 1-1.5 m. The fruit is small, weighing 1.4-2 kg. The surface is smooth, the background is dark green, the pattern is blurred dark green stripes, difficult to distinguish from the background. The pulp is orange-red, tender, juicy, medium sweetness. Contains dry matter - 7.4-9%, sugars - 6.3-7%; fruit taste - 4-4.5 points. Consumer ripeness of fruits occurs earlier than seeds ripening - after 73-87 days. Productivity is 1.3-2.1 kg/m2. Marketability 89-92%. Transportability and keeping quality are weak. The pulp during storage quickly mucilages.

Varieties with yield, kg/m2 are also zoned: early ripening - Volgar - 1,7-2,3, Kamyzyaksky - 1,7-3, Radiant - 2,8-3,8, Nice - 4,4-5,0, Winner 395-1,0-1,5, Early - 1,7-2,3, Firework - 1,6-2,4, whole leaf - 2,5-4,4, Yarilo- 2.4; precocious spark- 1,7-2,6.

mid-early. Favorite Farm of Pyatigorsk 286. Mid-early or early ripe, depending on the zone. The term for sowing seeds is May 3-10 according to the scheme 1.4x1.4 m or 2.1x1 m. Features of care: double breakthrough, watering, 5-6 loosening in rows. Medium climbing - the length of the main lash is up to 2 m. The fruit is spherical, slightly flattened from the stalk to the flower end, weighing 3.4-4.5 kg. The surface is smooth, the background is dark green, the pattern is narrow black-green sparsely spiky stripes. The bark is thin (up to 1 cm), leathery. The pulp is intense pink or pink-red, tender, juicy, sweet. Contains dry matter - 9.7-11.3%, sugars - 7.9-8.8%, vitamin C - 6.9-8.4 mg%; fruit taste - 4-4.4 points. Seeds of medium size (up to 1.3 cm in length), smooth, cream with a black rim and spout. From full shoots to the first harvest, 75-90 days pass. Productivity is 1.5-2.8 kg/m2. Marketability 87-92%. Transportability is average, keeping quality is poor. Powdery mildew and Fusarium wilt are moderately affected.

Mid-season. Astrakhan. Demanding to heat throughout the growing season. The plant is long-branched, of medium power. The fruit is spherical, somewhat flattened from the stalk to the flower end, slightly segmented, sometimes tuberous, weighing 3.4-5.1 kg. The background is light green and green, the pattern is prickly dark-colored stripes of medium width. The bark is thick - up to 2 cm, elastic, dense. The pulp is densely pink, coarse-grained, juicy, sweet. In large fruits, voids sometimes form, but this does not affect the taste. Seeds are wide, brown, weighing up to 40 g from one fruit. Contains dry matter - 8.2-11.4%, sugars - 7-9%, vitamin C - 6.6-8.7 mg%; taste - 4-4.8 points. From full shoots to the first harvest, 86-93 days pass. Productivity is high - 2.7-5.5 kg / m2. Marketability 89-94%. Transportability is good, keeping quality is average. The variety is affected by Fusarium wilt and powdery mildew in the middle, anthracnose - in a weak degree.

Melitopol 142. The plant is large. The length of the main lash is 3 m or more. The fruit is obtusely elliptical in shape, large, weighing 4.4-5.2 kg. The surface is weakly segmented, the background is green, the pattern is dark green spiny stripes of medium width. The bark is of medium thickness (1-1.5 cm), hard. The flesh is intense pink and raspberry, granular, very sweet, juicy, medium coarse. Contains dry matter - 8.7-9.9%, sugars - 7.9-9.5%, vitamin C - 6.1 -10.2 mg%; the taste is excellent - 4.1-5 points. The seeds are wide, medium in size (1-1.3 cm long), smooth, red, without a pattern. From full shoots to the first harvest, 85-102 days pass. Productivity is 1.6-3.2 kg/m2. Marketability 82-92%. Transportability is good. Fruits are stored after harvesting 3-4 months.

Varieties with yield, kg/m2 are also zoned: mid-ripening - Bagaevsky Murashka 747/ 749 - 1,6-3,5, Bykovsky 22 - 2,1-3,6, Dessert 83-1,8-2,5, Donskaya Sweet-1,8, Favorite of Krasnodar-1,6-3,0, Muravlevsky -2,6-4,2, Jubilee 72-1.9-4.9; mid-late Biryuchekutskaya 775-3.0; late-ripening Volzhsky 7-1,9-3,4, Kholodov's gift - 1,8-3,6.

VARIETIES FOR PROTECTED GROUND

mid-early. Spring. For winter greenhouses in winter-spring turnover. Bee-pollinated, the main whip is long, weaving is average. The fruit is elongated-spherical, weighing 2 kg. The surface is smooth without mesh; olive green background. The bark is thin and medium thick. The flesh is bright red, granular, tender, sweet, juicy. Seeds are oval, medium size, dark brown, smooth. Taste 4.4 points. From germination to the first harvest, 103 days pass. Productivity is 9.1-9.3 kg / m2, with a friendly fruiting of 5.8 kg / m2 per month.

spider mite damages the variety below the average degree.

An early ripening variety is also cultivated. Stokes 647 / 649 and precocious spark.

Growing watermelon seeds and seedlings

Watermelon seeds are kept in the sun for 7-10 days, then soaked until pecking begins and hardened with variable temperatures: 12 hours at 15-18 ° C, 12 hours at 2 ... -2 ° C, and so on for 5-7 days. Watermelon seeds are most viable after 1-2 years of storage, after 3-4 years they lose their sowing qualities. In the open field, seeds of early varieties are sown on May 3-10 at a depth of 4-6 cm according to the scheme 1.4x1.4 or 2.1x1 m (Stokes 647/649-1.4x0.7 m). For autumn digging, they add, g / m2: ammonium nitrate - 20-25, granulated superphosphate - 30-35, potassium sulfate - 10-12 and manure compost 1-2 kg / m.

In the middle lane, in Western Siberia, in the Far East, watermelon is grown through seedlings planted under film shelters. Germinated watermelon seeds for seedlings are sown to a depth of 5-7 cm in pots 10x10 cm with a nutrient mixture of rotted manure (humus) and soddy soil in a ratio of 3:1. The temperature is maintained: until germination 25 ° C, then 4 days 18; then in the daytime 22, at night 18 °C. 5-6 days after the emergence of seedlings, they are fed with chicken manure (1:15) with the addition of 5 g of phosphorus and 30 g of potassium fertilizers according to the active substance (a.e.) per 10 l of water. 25-30-day-old seedlings are planted in the soil from ventilated lowland peat, sawdust and mullein in a ratio of 4:3:3 with the addition of three tablespoons of nitrophoska and one superphosphate or two buckets of manure with the addition of three tablespoons of nitrophoska and one superphosphate per 1 m2. The scheme of planting seedlings in film shelters and greenhouses 0.7x0.7 m.

In the absence of insects, watermelon is pollinated by hand at an air temperature of 18-25 ° C, picking off the male flower and applying the anthers to the stigma of the female flower. Watermelon fruit can accumulate a lot of nitrates. They are contained mainly in the crust and adjacent parts, but with excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers, they can also accumulate in the pulp. In the latter case, the clearly marked light thin nutritive threads of the pulp acquire an unpleasant orange-yellow color.

Varieties of watermelon for open ground

Early ripe varieties of watermelon:

Rose of the Southeast. The plant is large. The length of the main lash is 2 m or more. The fruit is spherical and elongated-spherical, weighing 2.5-3.6 kg. The surface is segmented or smooth, in some years it is prone to cracking, the background is light green, the pattern is wide green blurred stripes that almost cover the background. The bark is of medium thickness (up to 1.5 cm), flexible. The pulp is carmine-red, granular, juicy, sweet. Contains dry matter - 8.6-13%, sugars - 7.9-9.6%, vitamin C 4.4-5.1 mg%; fruit taste - 4.4-4.8 points. Seeds of medium size (1.3-1.5 cm in length), grayish-yellow, weighing 44-46 g in one fruit. From full shoots to the first harvest, 78-83 days pass. The yield of watermelon is 1.9-2.6 kg / m2. Marketability 84-93%. Transportability is good. Lightness is weak. Powdery mildew and Fusarium wilt affect the variety to a moderate to severe extent.

Stokes 647/649 . One of the most early maturing varieties watermelon. The plant is short-branched - the length of the main lash is 1-1.5 m. The fruit is small, weighing 1.4-2 kg. The surface is smooth, the background is dark green, the pattern is blurred dark green stripes, difficult to distinguish from the background. The pulp is orange-red, tender, juicy, medium sweetness. Contains dry matter - 7.4-9%, sugars - 6.3-7%; fruit taste - 4-4.5 points. Consumer ripeness of fruits occurs earlier than seeds ripening - after 73-87 days. The yield of watermelon is 1.3-2.1 kg / m2. Marketability 89-92%. Transportability and keeping quality are weak. The pulp during storage quickly mucilages. Varieties of watermelon with productivity, kg/m2, are also zoned: early-ripening - Volgar - 1.7-2.3, Kamyzyaksky - 1.7-3, Radiant - 2.8-3.8, Nitsa - 4.4-5.0 , Winner 395-1.0-1.5, Early - 1.7-2.3, Salute - 1.6-2.4, Whole-leaved - 2.5-4.4, Yarilo - 2.4; early ripening Light - 1.7-2.6.

Mid-early varieties of watermelon.

Favorite Farm of Pyatigorsk 286. Mid-early or early ripe variety of watermelon, depending on the zone. The term for sowing seeds is May 3-10 according to the scheme 1.4x1.4 m or 2.1x1 m. Features of care: double breakthrough, watering, 5-6 loosening in rows. Medium climbing - the length of the main lash is up to 2 m. The fruit is spherical, slightly flattened from the stalk to the flower end, weighing 3.4-4.5 kg. The surface is smooth, the background is dark green, the pattern is narrow black-green sparsely spiky stripes. The bark is thin (up to 1 cm), leathery. The pulp is intense pink or pink-red, tender, juicy, sweet. Contains dry matter - 9.7-11.3%, sugars - 7.9-8.8%, vitamin C - 6.9-8.4 mg%; fruit taste - 4-4.4 points. Seeds of medium size (up to 1.3 cm in length), smooth, cream with a black rim and spout. From full shoots to the first harvest, 75-90 days pass. The yield of watermelon is 1.5-2.8 kg / m2. Marketability 87-92%. Transportability is average, keeping quality is poor. Powdery mildew and Fusarium wilt are moderately affected.

Mid-season varieties of watermelon

Astrakhan . Demanding to heat throughout the growing season. The plant is long-branched, of medium power. The fruit is spherical, somewhat flattened from the stalk to the flower end, slightly segmented, sometimes tuberous, weighing 3.4-5.1 kg. The background is light green and green, the pattern is prickly dark-colored stripes of medium width. The bark is thick - up to 2 cm, elastic, dense. The pulp is densely pink, coarse-grained, juicy, sweet. In large fruits, voids sometimes form, but this does not affect the taste. Seeds are wide, brown, weighing up to 40 g from one fruit. Contains dry matter - 8.2-11.4%, sugars - 7-9%, vitamin C - 6.6-8.7 mg%; taste - 4-4.8 points. From full shoots to the first harvest, 86-93 days pass. Productivity is high - 2.7-5.5 kg / m2. Marketability 89-94%. Transportability is good, keeping quality is average. The variety is affected by fusarium wilt and powdery mildew in the middle, anthracnose - in a weak degree.

Melitopol 142.The plant is large. The length of the main lash is 3 m or more. The fruit is large, weighing 4.4-5.2 kg. The surface is slightly segmented, the background is green, the pattern is dark green spiny stripes of medium width. The bark is of medium thickness (1-1.5 cm), hard. The flesh is intense pink and raspberry, granular, very sweet, juicy, medium coarse. Contains dry matter - 8.7-9.9%, sugars - 7.9-9.5%, vitamin C - 6.1-10.2 mg%; the taste is excellent - 4.1-5 points. The seeds are wide, medium in size (1-1.3 cm long), smooth, red, without a pattern. From full shoots to the first harvest, 85-102 days pass. Productivity is 1.6-3.2 kg/m2. Marketability 82-92%. Transportability is good. Fruits are stored after harvesting 3-4 months.

Varieties of watermelon with a yield, kg/m2, are also zoned: mid-ripening - Bagaevsky Murashka 747/749 - 1.6-3.5, Bykovsky 22 - 2.1-3.6, Dessert 83 - 1.8-2.5, Donskaya Sweet -1.8, Favorite of Krasnodar - 1.6-3.0, Muravlevsky - 2.6-4.2, Yubileiny 72 - 1.9-4.9; middle-late Biryuchekutskaya 775-3.0; late-ripening - Volzhsky 7 - 1.9-3.4, Kholodov's Gift - 1.8-3.6.

Varieties of watermelon for protected ground

Mid-early varieties of watermelon

Spring. For winter greenhouses in winter-spring circulation. Bee-pollinated, the main whip is long, weaving is average. The fruit is elongated-spherical, weighing 2 kg. The surface is smooth without mesh; olive green background. The bark is thin and medium thick. The flesh is bright red, granular, tender, sweet, juicy. Seeds are oval, medium size, dark brown, smooth. Taste 4.4 points. From germination to the first harvest, 103 days pass. Productivity is 9.1-9.3 kg / m2, with a friendly fruiting of 5.8 kg / m2 per month. The spider mite damages the variety below the average degree.

The early ripe variety of watermelon Stokes 647/649 and the early ripening Spark are also cultivated.

Watermelon is a heat-loving plant belonging to the gourd family. Growing is hard work. But at good care this plant can bear fruit excellent quality. There are a lot of them in stores, but among them there may be unsweetened, low-quality or even dangerous goods. Therefore, it is more reliable to grow this fruit on your own plot.

Growing watermelons in central Russia is not an easy task.

With independent cultivation, you can achieve a good harvest. To do this, it is necessary to properly prepare the planting site and the seeds of the plant. Agrotechnics for growing watermelons prescribes to analyze the soil for its acidity. The optimal indicator is 7. Choose a sunny place for planting, some distance from bushes and trees, with south side site. It is desirable to choose the earth not too clayey and not very dense. The best predecessors are legumes, onions or cabbage.

Land for watermelons is recommended to be prepared in advance. In autumn, after harvesting, the soil is dug up and rotted humus is scattered on top. And the best option is to make a kind of multi-layer cake, in which sand, earth, hay and humus alternate. In the spring, all this needs to be dug up again and leveled with a rake. The soil can be prepared in early spring. This is done immediately after the snow melts. The earth must be carefully dug up and sprinkled with humus.

With independent cultivation, you can achieve a good harvest. To do this, it is necessary to properly prepare the planting site and the seeds of the plant.

To receive guaranteed harvest delicious berries you need to prepare high-quality seeds. The term of their germination lasts from 3-5 to 10 days. With this in mind, the landing time can be calculated. After seed germination, seedlings are planted in the ground after 25 days. It is advisable to do this in the middle or at the end of May. Seedlings take root rather poorly, so each plant should be planted in a separate pot with a capacity of about 1 liter. Pots can be taken both peat and plastic. A mixture of soil can be made to fall asleep in pots on its own. To do this, for 20 kg of the finished mixture you need to take:

1 part of humus;
the same amount of peat;
the same amount of soil from the garden;
the same amount of clean river sand;
0.5 kg of wood ash.

You can also buy ready-made mixtures for planting pumpkin crops.

How to plant watermelons

Before sowing, the seeds are soaked for 12 hours in water with potassium permanganate. You can completely germinate them in a solution of potassium permanganate. The prepared soil mixture is poured into pots and moistened. Seeds 2 pcs. deepen into the soil to a depth of about 2 cm. The pots are covered with a film, which is removed after seed germination. Dishes with seeds are best placed on a windowsill with sunny side. The temperature in the room should not exceed 24˚С. After 4-6 days after germination, a weak sprout must be removed from each pot. For renewal daylight hours lamp is installed daylight. Plantings should be watered every other day with warm water, the temperature of which is 25 ° C.

About 10 days after germination, young plants should be fed. Fertilizer is made from the following components:

warm water - 10 parts;
mullein - 1 part;
superphosphate - 1 tbsp. l.;
ammonium nitrate - 2 tsp

All components are thoroughly mixed, pots with seedlings are watered with this composition. The second top dressing is done a week after planting the seedlings in the ground.

It is necessary to strictly ensure that the fertilizer solution does not get on the plants themselves - this can lead to their severe burns.

Before planting seedlings in the ground, you need to reduce the intensity of watering. 2-3 days before planting, watering is completely stopped. At the same time, the temperature in the room gradually decreases. Seedlings are transplanted into soil with a temperature of at least + 12 ° C only after the appearance of 5 leaves. The earth is divided into squares 50x70 cm. Holes are made at the intersections where plants are planted. Such a scheme for planting watermelons allows you to place growing lashes in the aisles. Planted plants are abundantly watered with warm water and covered with spunbond. To prevent the film from touching the plants, special arcs are installed for it. A film is also placed on the soil, which will heat the earth. Holes are cut in it for plant growth. On the onset warm weather film is removed.

Water the plants in the ground about 1 time in 7 days. Water should be well settled before this. For top dressing, a new solution is prepared:

water - 10 l;
ammonium sulfate - 30 g;
potassium salt - 20 g;
superphosphate - 50 g.

About 2 liters of feed mixture is poured under each plant. 15 days before the ripening of the fruits, top dressing is stopped.

Before planting seedlings in the ground, you need to reduce the intensity of watering.

plant care

After the formation of the 5th leaf is completely over, the growth point should be removed. After the appearance of the ovaries, the fruit the size of a plum is left, the rest are removed from the whip. Each plant cannot have more than 6 fruits. Pinching watermelons is very easy. After the berries remaining on the branch, you need to count 4 leaves and pinch off the tip of the whip in this place. Overgrown lashes that tend to go beyond all conceivable limits are removed completely.

The fruit harvest largely depends on the correct and timely pollination. Therefore, when flowering, you need to remove the film for a while in any weather. You need to water the plant very carefully so as not to touch it with your hands, otherwise numerous pests may appear, followed by diseases. These include:

fusarium;
bacteriosis;
olive blotch;
powdery mildew;
botrytis;
anthracnose.

These diseases are treated Bordeaux liquid, colloidal sulfur or cineb. Phosphamide, Keltan and Karbofos are used to control the following pests:

wireworm;
spider mite;
melon aphid.

Pests of watermelons can spoil the crop very much, so they need to be dealt with.

If putrefactive spots appear on the plants, they are sprinkled with lime or ash. You can also process landings blue vitriol(5% solution). With black rot, all diseased parts of the plant are completely removed. The remaining parts must be treated with copper chloride. root rot requires spraying with a solution of foundationazole (0.1%). To prevent all these troubles, weeds should be removed in time.

Secrets of planting watermelons (video)

Harvesting

Watermelons usually ripen in mid-August. Ripe berries become shiny and stop growing. The side of the fruit, on which it lay on the ground, is painted in a yellowish tint. When you press the berry, you can hear the crackling of the pulp. If you knock on the fetus, a clean and ringing sound. Ripe fruit does not sink in ordinary water. His tail is drying up. If you run your fingernail along the crust, upper layer filmed well.

A melon grower is a profession of a person who breeds watermelons in southern regions. Fields where sweet fruits can be grown are called melons. Melon growing includes the cultivation of not only watermelons, but also melons and pumpkins. AT agriculture it's a whole industry. You can grow a watermelon from a stone in the country in the Moscow region, in Siberia, in the Urals. This is what amateur gardeners do.

After the formation of the 5th leaf is completely over, the growth point should be removed

You can grow watermelon in our country. But the cultivation of watermelons in the Far East, in the middle lane is possible only with the help of seedlings. You need to choose the right seeds and prepare the land. Seedlings are first grown in pots on a windowsill, then transplanted into a greenhouse or open ground. For more confident growth, a watermelon can be grafted onto a local plant. For its production, special clips for grafting are often used. It is possible to vaccinate watermelon for lagenaria. Large berries are unlikely to grow, but 2-4 kg is quite a possible weight. Good predecessors for this crop are onions, legumes and cabbage, alfalfa, winter wheat.

Lots of people love this sweet berry. This fruit is eaten fresh, in salty, boiled from it delicious jam or watermelon honey. Native of the countries South Africa got to us. A seed in a pot germinates in about 5 days. Weak shoots should be removed immediately. Plant care consists of watering, weeding and fertilizing. It is necessary to carefully monitor the possible appearance of pests and diseases and immediately take measures to eliminate them. Ripe fruits are harvested around mid-August. The same culture can be planted only after 6-8 years. But root crops and tomatoes, eggplants and peppers, onions and legumes, greens will grow well in this place.

Watermelons in Siberia growing video

Grow watermelons in the Far East, the Urals and Siberia

The cultivation of this crop is mainly carried out in southern regions, in the Far East, Siberia and the Urals it is bred not in industrial scale. Grow watermelons in the Far East- can!

For its cultivation, raised manure or in-depth warm beds. Watermelons in the Far East in Siberia or the Urals often do not have time to keep up.

To do this, many gardeners resort to planting early-ripening varieties of watermelon, such as Crimpson, Sweet baby, Shuga baby, Spark. The most effective are Gypsies and Stripes. Amur Garden wishes you success!

Planting seedlings of watermelons

melon cultivation in siberia

I plant sprouts one at a time in fertilized holes (pour 2 handfuls of humus and a handful (quick ash) into each hole). The holes should be located at a distance of 0.7-0.8 meters, the distance between rows - 1.5-1.7 meters.

If you are afraid of frost, cover the planted seedlings of watermelons with a film. Important! The earth in the garden should be covered with black for the whole summer polyethylene film by making slots in which you can plant watermelon seedlings.

watermelon care

You can accelerate the growth of seedlings in the ground by top dressing. 7 days after planting in Siberia or in the Far East of watermelons, pour infusion of cow dung on water into the soil.

The concentration should be 1 to 10. Somewhere by the end of July, beginning of August, to accelerate the growth of the berry and improve palatability spend 2-3 feedings, the interval between them should be about 7 days. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers can be added to the soil.

The concentration should be 1 Matchbox for 1 square meter or prepare a watering solution at a ratio of 1 box to 10 liters of water and water your watermelons.Watermelons need to be watered often but not much. By August, watering should be stopped and watermelons should be allowed to ripen.

Get a harvest of watermelons in Siberia

For the speedy formation of fruits and their normal growth it is necessary to carry out pinching watermelons. There should be two stepchildren on one plant, which will bear fruit in the future. This will noticeably accelerate the growth of the sweet berry.

If the rest of the stepchildren are not pinched off, they will pull the nutrient moisture and minerals onto themselves. During the formation of the delivery, when the fetus becomes the size of an egg, it is necessary to pay personal attention to each future fetus. Under each berry, you can put a wooden or plastic plank - this will protect the fruit from rotting.

Varieties of watermelons for the Far East, Siberia and the Urals

Gypsy is an ultra-early variety. Watermelons on this plant begin to sing by August 10th. Its features are: sweet pulp, bark 5-8 millimeters thick, inner color - raspberry, outer - dark green with blurry darker stripes.

Berry weight - 2-3 kg. Striped - Its features are: with pink-red sweet pulp. Appearance- light green with bright green stripes, thin crust (about 10 mm).

The variety is early ripening, the removable ripeness of fruits occurs at the end of August. Cultivation of two varieties with different growing seasons at the same time is very convenient, the period of consumption of fresh watermelons increases. Gives fruits weighing 4.5-5 kg

We all love summer month– August. It is during this month that nature pampers us with fresh, juicy fruits. But there is not always time and opportunity to walk around the market for a long time and choose them.

In addition, we are often simply not sure about the quality of the products that we are offered. But it is worth approaching the issue differently: it is in your power to grow these delicious fruits summer - watermelons, moreover, you will not only be able to feast on them earlier than others, but even build your own business selling melons. Of course, the first question that comes to your mind will be: “How to grow watermelons in a greenhouse?”.

Everything is not as difficult as it seems. In this article we will tell you about all the stages of growing melons in greenhouse conditions.

First stage. Basics of melon growing

Melons, as a plant culture, came to us from South Africa. It was there that they first began to grow these tasty and satisfying plants. There, they can still be found in the wild. But you should not assume that this berry is exclusively southern.

In greenhouse conditions, it can be grown in any climate. And the principles of growing are so simple that they become available to everyone. So, what do you need? First of all, it is, of course, a good, fertile soil with high-quality drainage (see.

Land in a greenhouse: soil selection and care). The level of its fat content and the degree of neutrality of the soil are important here. Attention: Prepare the seedlings in advance. Drop her off at plastic cups, you can buy them, or you can make them from unnecessary old bottles.

In each such container at the very beginning of April, place 2 watermelon seeds, cover the pots with foil, and place in a warm, humid place with a temperature not lower than 24.°С and not higher than 26°С.And, behold, the first shoots appear. Remove the film, remove weak sprouts and leave one or two of the strongest and largest.

Change the location of the containers, put them in a greenhouse or on a windowsill, in the warm season you can take them outside (see Mini greenhouse on a windowsill for growing seedlings).

So the seedlings should stand until the first leaves appear on it. In mid-May, start preparing the soil, for this, first dig square holes. Pour humus and soil into each of them in a layer of 2-3 cm.

This will warm the ground well, after which it will be possible to make holes to place a clod of earth with a watermelon sprout there. It is very important not to shake off the “native” land of the sprout, otherwise it may die in an unfamiliar environment. Lower each sprout to a depth of 3-5 cm.

So: in each hole there are 4 sprouts, between which you put the bottom of a large 5-liter bottle of water. Why is this needed? Evaporating, the water will protect the watermelons and melons in the greenhouse at any extreme high or low temperatures.

Then cover the hole with acrylic sheeting, hammer in the pegs on the sides. The first stage has been completed.

Second phase. seedling development

And now, the 5th leaf appears on your sprout. You find the highest point of growth and simply remove it, as you would do with cucumbers, for example. After another two weeks, you will see the processes of the first row, just remove some of them and leave only the strongest ones.

How is the further formation of watermelon in the greenhouse? Everything will depend only on you. Water the plant carefully so as not to fall on the leaves themselves. When the ovaries are large enough (the size of a plum), start the selection.

On each lash of gourds, select those that will be the most correct in shape, checking, for example, with a reference book or watching a video on how the correct ovary should look. Feel free to remove all the rest, along with flowers. Ideally, one watermelon should grow on one lash. The growth point on the main shoots must also be removed, and a piece of board should be placed under each ovary so that it does not touch the ground, thereby protecting it from decay processes and pathogenic microorganisms.

How to care for greenhouse watermelons?

In order for your melons and watermelons to grow quickly in a greenhouse, they need to be watered regularly. You can determine this by the leaves, which will be quite simple - if the leaves are a little grafted, then the plant needs moisture.

But excessive moisture can cause cracks on the ovary itself, so it is important not to overdo it. For the normal cultivation of watermelons in a greenhouse, it is necessary to feed weekly. Also, be sure to pay attention to whether the earth turns green in the greenhouse.

Alternate infusions for this (mullein, herbal, chicken). Don't Forget to Fertilize wood ash- then the fruits are guaranteed to be sweet. And now, when they are already ripe, stop feeding and reduce the amount of watering. How to understand if a melon or watermelon is ripe?

Firstly, this is a typical smell of gourds, and secondly, these are ring cracks on the tail. You can store such berries in boxes where you also place a thick cardboard between each fruit. So you keep the berries until October.

How to choose the right type of watermelon?

Watermelon in a greenhouse variety is a huge variety of shapes, colors and tastes. Your choice will depend directly on climatic conditions where you live. A watermelon in a greenhouse in Siberia is also quite realistic, but it is important to choose the right variety.

WATERMELONS and MELONS in Siberia? Easily!

We live in Siberia Altai region). Our summers are usually hot, but very short. Night frosts on the soil occur until June 10, and in August there are already cold nights. There are a lot of imported watermelons and melons for sale, but I want my own, environmentally friendly, without nitrates and pesticides.

I used to try to grow seedlings at home, but they practically do not take root, they get sick for a long time and it is difficult to get a harvest from such seedlings. Last summer I received a wonderful rich harvest of southern melons. Watermelons grew sweet, 5-7 kilograms each.

Watermelons that usually grow with me: Ogonyok, Sugar baby, Odintsovsky, Honey couch potato, Beijing joy, Emperor's hat. Melons: Cappuccino, Cinderella, Collective Farm Girl, Tasty morsel, Honey Tale, Nectarine, Eclair, Turkmenka.

Southern varieties with a ripening period from seedlings over 100 days will give good harvest in Siberia not every year - they need a temperature above 28 ° C for a long time and mainly sunny days from mid-May to September. Last year the summer was just like that, and the harvest of overseas southern varieties, fortunately, was also a success.

Triangular watermelons are grown in the Stavropol Territory

April 29-30 soak at room temperature for 2 days, seeds of watermelons and melons in the first days of May, we prepare holes: dig up, loosen the ground, add a little rotted manure (or peat) and 2-2.5 kilograms of sand to each hole, cut the bottom (1/3 of the bottle height) and unscrew the caps from two-liter plastic bottles, spill the wells with hot water (not boiling water, 60-70 degrees) from a kettle (1.5-2 liters per well), let the water soak into the ground at a temperature of 35-40 ° C (check by touch) stick the swollen seeds to a depth of about 1 cm and immediately cover with a cut bottle (neck up). Press the lower edge of the bottle into the ground for a couple of centimeters; if frosts on the soil are possible in the coming days, then we cut the soft covering material into ribbons like a wide scarf and put it between the bottles; the earth in the holes did not dry out, water with warm water when the threat of frost has passed, we remove the bottles and grow watermelons and melons as usual, watering frequently and plentifully, in the heat it is imperative to water in the morning and evening with warm water From the beginning of August, you need to constantly pinch the tops of the lashes and remove the newly growing side shoots

How to grow watermelons outdoors?

Sunny studio - Igor Yaruta, Shutterstock.com

Watermelon belongs to the melons of the gourd family. For normal growth, it needs a lot of light and heat, especially at the first stage of plant development.

Therefore, it is not always possible to get a good harvest of ripe, juicy and tasty watermelons in central Russia in the open field. If the summer falls cold and cloudy, then no care will help to get a real ripe, ripened watermelon.

Grow, then the fruits will grow, but the watermelon pulp may not reach a rich red color, but only turn out to be pink shade. And yes, it won't taste the same. But even in this case, a real gardener does not despair, and uses unripe fruits for pickling.

If such watermelons are properly salted, then a real delicacy is obtained! But if the summer comes hot, then you can enjoy plenty of magnificent ripe watermelons with amazingly beautiful bright red flesh. And the taste of a ripened, freshly picked watermelon, and from its own melons, cannot be expressed in words!

Well, very tasty! Eat such watermelons at least every day from morning to evening - and do not get bored! Therefore, I still grow watermelons in Siberia (in Altai) in the open field. In autumn, I choose a place in the garden for mini-melons so that onions, cabbage or potatoes would be the predecessors of watermelons.

I grow watermelons in holes, and in the places designated for them I bring one bucket for each hole of perennial humus chicken manure, humus from compost and sand. The land in my area is heavy, so sometimes I bring in two buckets of sand.

I mix everything right on the surface of the soil and leave it without digging until spring. I select varieties of watermelons that are hardy and early ripening, suitable for the short Siberian summer. Showed well in last years varieties such as Siberian Lights, Sugar Baby, Olginsky .

In order to prevent cross-pollination, different varieties I don't place next to it. I always take one or two holes for larger-fruited varieties, for example. In the hot season, they ripen well and produce rather large fruits. In the spring, when it is already warm enough (May 15-20), I plow the intended areas for the holes with a cultivator, and I try to walk on melons as little as possible and not compact the soil.

I immediately form holes with a diameter of 1 meter, free space between the holes I leave 1.5-2 meters (between the edges). I immediately sow dry seeds of watermelons in each hole (at least 10 seeds) to a depth of 3-4 cm. I water the holes with warm water heated in the sun and mulch with peat.

In some holes I plant grown seedlings of watermelons (with 2-3 real leaves), and between seedlings I still sow seeds. A week later, I repeat the sowing with seeds in all the wells in exactly the same way.

Now, if the seedlings or the first shoots die or start to get sick from the cold, then the second echelon of sprouts will survive. It often happens that shoots of later sowing overtake even seedlings in development, and it is they who give the best fruits.

I sow so thickly into the holes so that later, in the conditions of fierce competition, it would be possible to leave the most strong plants. The seed consumption is large, but since I harvest the seeds on my own and always with a margin, this is not a problem for me. When watermelon seedlings appear and begin to gain strength, I gradually thin them out and leave 3-4 true leaves in the hole by the time the plants appear one by one.

Sometimes two. At this time, some of the young watermelons can be transplanted to another place, and this despite the prevailing opinion that watermelons cannot be transplanted! If this is done correctly, then they do not get sick at all and give excellent yields.

In our area in the first decade of June, dangerous night frosts still occur. In such cases, the melon has to be covered at night. I use for this nonwoven fabric cut into strips. I water the growing watermelons regularly, in hot weather 2-3 times a week.

Watering should be plentiful! Moreover, it is necessary to water not only the holes themselves, but the entire area of melons. I very carefully weed and loosen the holes, but only at the very beginning of the growing season.

In general, it is better not to walk between the holes (only as a last resort), because the roots of watermelons diverge widely to the sides and it is very easy to damage them. When the watermelons grow, the weeds can no longer do any harm to them, and I simply don’t pay attention to them. In June, when 2-3 true leaves appear on the watermelons, I feed the plants with a solution of fresh chicken manure (1 to 15), at the rate one bucket per hole.

I do the second same top dressing in a month, but only if the plants do not grow green mass well. I pinch the lashes only once, again, in order to stomp less on melons.

When watermelon ovaries appear and reach the size of a large apple (10 cm in diameter), then on each plant I leave 2-3 lashes with such ovaries, with no more than 2 fruits on each lash. After the ovary, I leave 3-5 leaves, and remove the tip of the whip.

Harvest is obtained no more than 3-6 fruits from one plant. This is quite enough, but the watermelons grow large and ripen perfectly. In August, when the watermelons begin to ripen, I periodically (every 7-10 days) gently turn the fruits upside down to the sun.

This is done so that the watermelons ripen evenly. And so that they do not rot, in wet weather I put small boards under them. Watering, especially in hot weather, in no case do not stop until the very end of the season.

I finish watering only 3-5 days before harvesting. If anyone thinks that at the same time watermelons will be unsweetened, then they are very mistaken! Quite the opposite: if there is not enough moisture, then the watermelon will be tasteless.

And in order for a watermelon to grow sugary, it needs a lot of sun and plenty of water. In the last fruitful year for watermelons, about 40 fruits were collected from mini-melons from 6 holes (10 plants in total). Of these, 20 pieces - 5-6 kg each, the rest - 2-3 kg, well, the two most-most - 8 and 9 kg!

Almost all watermelons are fully ripe, of which a few (about 10) were allowed to pickle. And not a single one turned out to be completely green and unripe. And they ate watermelons, ate - to their fill and plenty!

I still remember! And how can you forget, because fresh, ripe, delicious watermelon, grown with your own hands - it's just a real miracle!

From what I will describe and demonstrate to you, it should be understood that watermelons can also be grown in Siberia. Of course, these will not be luxurious melons, but you can grow a few real watermelons.

Sometimes it doesn't matter how much crop you grow, what matters is what it is. exotic fruit for your region. In this case, you will get more pleasure from simply admiring the watermelon in your garden. It's no less fun than just buying it on the market.

Summer in Siberia is as hot and dry as in the southern regions, but only very short. Therefore, it is important not to miss a single warm day and prepare for planting watermelons long before the onset of stable heat. First of all, you need to decide on the seeds.

For Siberia the best option cultivation of watermelons is the use of early varieties. First you need to grow seedlings and select the strongest sprouts, which then will need to be planted in open ground. But at the same time, it is necessary to provide for measures to shelter the plant in case of unexpected night cold snaps, which often happen even in the month of July. I suggest watching two videos that will not only convince you of the possibility of growing watermelons in your garden, but also give helpful tips how to do it in a greenhouse and in the open field.http://rutube.ru/tracks/5283654.html

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