How to grow large garlic. Growing garlic - revealing the secrets of a great harvest

Close relative onion - garlic. Of course, he has features of planting, care, storage and preparation for planting, like any vegetable crop. But growing garlic is not difficult. We'll figure out. There are arrowing and non-shooting, winter and spring varieties of garlic - this depends on the biological characteristics of the plant. Non-shooting garlic reproduces only with cloves, arrowing - plus air bulbs (bulbs) to them.

Shooting varieties are winter varieties. They give a good harvest when planted before winter. Among non-shooting varieties there are winter and spring varieties. Planting spring garlic in the fall leads to poor rooting of cloves, thinning of crops, and crop shortages. However, there are varieties that grow well in autumn and spring planting.

The main thing when growing winter garlic is to create conditions for a good wintering. This is provided the right choice planting sites, sowing dates, seeding depth. The culture should be placed on fertile lands with flat surface, clean from weeds not flooded by autumn or melt waters.

The best predecessors are crops that vacate the field early, under which organic fertilizers: cucumbers, zucchini, early cabbage, lettuce, legumes. Garlic is a good predecessor for all crops except onions, because they are affected by the same pests and diseases.

Preparing the garden for planting garlic

The soil in the garden is cultivated in advance so that it settles somewhat. Directly under plowing or digging, humus (40-60 t/ha), mineral fertilizers can be applied. Norm mineral fertilizers per 1 weave: 30-40 g ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate, 15-20 g of potassium chloride. Saltpeter is not applied in autumn, only in spring.

Preparation of planting material - garlic cloves, bulbs

For planting winter or spring garlic, three types of planting material are used:

• teeth,
• air bulbs (bulbs);
• sevok (single teeth grown from air bulbs).

Only garlic heads with healthy teeth are selected. All diseased, shriveled or sprouted bulbs are discarded. Large or medium-sized teeth are the most suitable material for planting.

Teeth prepared for planting are pickled, disinfected with a 1% solution blue vitriol or 3% suspension of TMTD for 10-15 minutes. If disinfection is not carried out, then it is useful to soak them for 12-24 hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Such preparation contributes to the improvement of planting material, protects it from diseases.

Planting garlic in the fall before winter - timing

In order for the garlic to take root, but not to germinate, it must be planted before winter two to three weeks before the onset of a steady cold snap. Optimal time planting winter varieties of garlic before winter is the third decade of October in the Kuban. With an earlier planting, for example, in September, sprouted teeth leave before winter with 2-3 true leaves. So that the leaves do not suffer from frost or cold winds, hilling of plants is carried out, and in early spring transverse harrowing to free the neck of the plants.

With a later planting, the teeth do not have time to take root - there is a large sparseness of crops from the influence of cold winds and frosts.

Check the timing of planting garlic with.

Air bulbs are sown in autumn or early spring. The so-called sevok grows out of them - these are not cloves, but roundish small onions. If you plant air bulbs in the fall, then most of them will give arrows in the summer, and during spring planting there is no arrowing, but round single-toothed bulbs (apples) are formed. They are planted in the fall, as they do not store well until spring.

Spring varieties are planted in early spring, as soon as it is possible to enter the field, as they are very demanding on soil moisture, low temperature at the beginning of growth. With a delay in planting, the growth and development of plants is delayed, the yield is reduced, and the commercial quality of products is deteriorating.

Norm and scheme of planting garlic

Garlic is usually planted in rows, the distance between which is 20-30 cm. The teeth are placed at a distance of 6-8 cm, but this distance depends on their size: for large ones, the distance is greater, small ones are planted closer to each other. One or two days before planting, the heads should be disassembled into teeth. If this is done, for example, a week before sowing or even earlier, then they will lose some percentage of germination.

How many teeth will be needed in order to plant, for example, 1 sq. meter garden, hard to say. The planting rate depends on the size of the cloves that you plant. Usually, agronomists call the figure 130-380 cloves per 1 m 2. They get the first number based on their average weight of one clove of 3 g, and the second - if it weighs 7 g.

Larger heads grow from larger teeth. Planting cloves weighing less than 3 g is not worth it, as small heads will grow out of them.

How deep to plant? It depends, firstly, on the size of the teeth, and secondly, on the timing of planting.

In autumn, before winter, winter varieties are planted. Large teeth are planted no deeper than 5-7 cm. Smaller teeth - no deeper than 4-5 cm. layer (5-7 cm) of mulch - straw or dry grass.

Spring varieties are planted in spring. The depth of planting spring garlic is 4-5 cm. Also, make sure that the layer of earth above the teeth is at least 3-4 cm. This will ensure optimal conditions for good rooting, to form heads of the correct shape.

Caring for planting garlic, top dressing

One of the secrets of growing garlic is top dressing.

In early spring, after the snow melts, as soon as the first warm days it would be nice to feed the crops with nitrogen fertilizers, for example, urea (1 tablespoon / 10 liters of water). Approximately 5 liters of solution should be used per 1 m 2.

In April, when the seedlings grow up, top dressing is carried out twice, for example, this is the middle and end of April. The first feeding should contain more nitrogen. Its composition may be as follows: half a liter chicken manure+ 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitroammophoska in a bucket (10 l) of water. In the second feeding should be more phosphorus and potassium. The composition is: 1 tbsp. spoon of double superphosphate + 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate + 1 teaspoon of urea per bucket (10 l) of water. For 1 m 2 we also consume about 5 liters of solution.

Be sure to loosen the soil between the rows after top dressing the next day, after a week and a half, loosen again, if the soil is dry, water it. Garlic loves loose soil without - oxygen must be supplied to the roots and bulbs of the plant, so loosen the soil between rows after each watering or after rain. By the way, if there is no rain, then watering should be carried out at least weekly. Water abundantly - 12-15 liters per 1 m 2.

Mulching row spacing can facilitate the work of a gardener. Mulch will retain moisture, and the soil under the mulch will always remain loose.

In order for you to grow large heads, the arrows must be broken out in time. Try to break or cut them, and do not pull them up - this way you can inadvertently pull out the whole bulb or damage its root system. Break the arrows when they have reached a length of 12-15 cm, the breaking point should be as close as possible to the rosette of leaves. If you break it of a shorter length, then it will continue to grow - you will not get a large head.

Breaking out arrows is a special agricultural technique that allows not only to increase the size of the head, but also accelerates their maturation.

By the way, do not throw away the broken arrows - they can be used when canning blanks, as a seasoning for food.

For example, add finely chopped garlic cloves to boiled potatoes, after you have drained the water, slightly dried it. Add butter or sour cream, mix and serve. Once upon a time, I read this recipe - it was called "Phytoncide Potato". Since then, it has been one of our family's favorite dishes.

Finely chopped arrows can be added to boiled hot pasta or vermicelli - this is also tasty, healthy, especially in spring, when there are so few vitamins.

Harvesting garlic when it should be done

Usually at the end of July, the leaves of the garlic begin to turn yellow. This indicates that it is time to clean up. Gardeners have an unwritten rule: it is better to clean sooner than later. Even a delay of 5 days matters. With earlier harvesting, it is left outdoors under a canopy for ripening. Do not cut off the leaves just yet. Wherein nutrients from the leaves enter the bulbs, which increase their mass. In this case, the heads are dense, covered with dry integumentary scales on top, of a good attractive appearance. And if you are literally 3-5 days late with cleaning, then the scales covering the heads burst, the teeth crumble, the head itself becomes loose. Such garlic will not be stored for a long time.

But I want to talk about the timing of cleaning separately. There are many varieties that different dates maturation - it means that they should not be removed all at once, but in turn. No matter how much I talked with my gardeners I know, almost no one knows what variety they grow. By the way, me too. But the differences of the variety can be seen by the color of the outer shell of the head, by the number of cloves in the bulb. I try to sort the heads before planting in order to at least approximately plant the varieties separately.

How do you know when it's time to remove the garlic from the beds?

Very simple. I always leave a few arrows, I don't cut them off when they start to grow. At first, during growth, the arrows are fancifully bent, curly. But as soon as I noticed that the arrow straightened up, stands vertically up - this is the first sign that it's time to dig out the garlic.

There is another sign - the flower heads, which have already formed bulbs, have burst - for now, clean them up.

Thus, knowing these signs of ripening, no matter where you live, you will never be late to harvest garlic on time. Although the timing of cleaning will be different for everyone.

Ripening and storage of air bulbs (bulbs)

To on next year you had your own garlic for planting, leave some part of the plants with arrows in the garden, do not break them out. These plants with left arrows should be left in the garden for another one to two weeks after harvesting the main crop. Then the arrows with air bulbs are cut off. You can tie them in small bunches, hang them under a canopy (not on open sun) for drying. This is how garlic arrows with air bulbs are stored for 20-30 days. During this time, there is an outflow of nutrients from the arrows into the bulbs, they are covered with dense scales, become light straw or purple in color (the color depends on the variety). Bulbs are very large, the shell bursts. If you are going to plant them in the fall, before winter, then clean them, sort them by size. And if the bulbs are intended for spring-summer planting, then it is best to continue to store them in bunches until spring, since when cleaning, sorting in the fall, the bulbs are injured, they can dry out, lose their germination. They should be stored in a dark cool place.

Ripe, mature, well-dried heads with intact scales are selected for storage. best temperature for storage at home - + 18 ° С. It is better to store garlic in mesh bags, pigtails or cardboard boxes.

How can you get single clove garlic?

Air bulbs can be planted in autumn or spring to obtain a single tooth. It should be remembered that when autumn sowing part of the bulbs freezes, rots. Therefore, sparse seedlings are obtained. At early spring sowing shoots appear on the 10-20th day, as a rule, friendly. Sowing scheme: distance between rows 20 cm, continuous planting of onions in a row. Care consists in watering and subsequent shallow loosening, top dressing complex fertilizers. Single-toothed bulbs are harvested as soon as the leaves begin to fall. After ripening (10-12 days), drying, cut off the roots, dried leaves. The single tooth is stored at a temperature of 16-18 ° C, relative humidity 70-75%.

One last thing… Avoid planting garlic from greengrocers or supermarkets as you run the risk of introducing serious viral diseases to your area.

Garlic is one of the oldest vegetable crops, whose homeland is the foothills of the Central Asian regions. It is both a seasoning, and a burning spice, and an excellent medicine. Therefore, not a single garden is complete without planting this representative of the Lukovichny family. Growing garlic outdoors usually does not cause big problems at gardeners. It is believed that there is nothing complicated in this. Still, it is not easy to grow a good crop. Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology, technology and planting care is necessary for the successful growth of this wonderful vegetable crop.

Garlic: plant history

It is impossible to establish exactly since when garlic has been present in people's lives. Already in ancient times it was grown in India and used as medicinal product. Historians claim that they began to eat it about 5 thousand years ago: the manuscripts found speak of the cultivation of garlic in Ancient Rome and Greece, Assyria and Judah, Egypt and Arab countries. It was found in the tombs of the pharaohs. It is mentioned in the Bible and the Koran, which testifies to the high recognition of this magnificent bulb as a spice and medicinal plant for ancient civilizations. And today it is difficult to do without this crop, so let's deal with the intricacies of growing such a wonderful plant as garlic.

Landing: choose a place

The site for landing is of decisive importance. It should be flat, not flooded by spring floods and be on sunny side. It is imperative to follow the crop rotation order: garlic should be grown in the same place for no more than 2 years. Ideal plant precursors are zucchini, peas, potatoes, cucumbers.

The soil should be moderately fertile and well drained. General rule when planting, the intervals must be observed: 8-10 cm between the cloves and 18-20 cm between the rows. Access to air and light - necessary condition good growth culture. In addition, such distances are optimal for subsequent fertilization and weeding.

Seed preparation

An indispensable rule for the quality selection of garlic cloves for planting is the choice of the desired variety. There are two varieties of bulbs - winter and spring.

You can plant in the spring - then you need spring garlic. Planting before winter, of course, involves winter varieties. Bulbs should be selected large, without damage. Divide them into cloves should be immediately before planting. A feature of winter garlic is that it needs long-term stratification for successful growth, i.e., being in cold conditions for several months. That is why it is planted before winter. For high-quality vernalization of garlic at the beginning of development, it is also required low temperatures, and this regulates the timing of sowing spring garlic. It is planted in early spring, as soon as the snow has melted, so that the vernalization time (up to 40 days) passes at an air temperature of + 5-10 ° C.

Planting garlic before winter

Among Russian gardeners, the main representative of bulbous plants planted before winter is winter garlic. Growing it is a responsible matter: it is necessary to work in the fall, observing the conditions of planting, taking into account the time and place, tillage and application necessary fertilizers, and in addition, the choice of a suitable variety.

A bed for planting garlic should begin to prepare a month before planting. The earth needs to be dug up well, weeds and roots must be removed. Then the soil must be carefully leveled and shed for nutrition and disinfection. After 10 days, humus or well-aged manure infusion is added at the rate of 10 liters of fertilizer per 2 square meters. m. The earth must be loosened, shed and grooved, then ash and sand should be added to them to prevent the formation of rot.

Terms and technology of planting winter garlic

Favorable time for landing in non-chernozem regions of Russia is the third decade of September. You can not plant garlic earlier - the cloves will have time to release the greens and freeze, and the roots will weaken. If planted later, the garlic will not have time to take root. Garlic is planted, deepening it by 10 cm, into prepared grooves, well spilled with water in advance.

Important! Growing garlic in open ground involves some features. When planting, you can’t force the cloves to be pressed in (this is often a sin for summer residents) - starting from the compacted soil, the germinating roots will begin to push the bulb up, which will lead to freezing. The final stage of planting is leveling the soil, mulching with peat, sawdust and insulation from above with spruce branches. In dry autumn, garlic should be watered once a week. A large harvest of garlic can be expected with a good winter with snowfalls. Therefore, if the winter is not snowy, and the planting areas for garlic are small, snow should be thrown onto the beds. Subject to these simple rules future harvest garlic will be reliably protected from adverse effects.

Spring garlic: cultivation and features

To activate the growth processes, the separated cloves are treated as follows: they are soaked for 10-12 hours in a growth stimulator solution with the addition of several grains of manganese to prevent diseases.

So, having chosen the variety you like, having processed it accordingly, proceed to spring planting. Note that early boarding garlic is also explained by the temporary reserve for the possibility of full ripening of the bulbs, which is a guarantee of their High Quality and an excellent level of keeping quality. There is an opinion that spring garlic is more useful than winter garlic, and does not lose its medicinal properties and presentation during storage. Growing garlic in the open field, especially from the early spring days, involves the same maintenance of intervals as when planting before winter, and subsequent careful monitoring of germination and the condition of the sprouts.

Garlic is extremely sensitive to soil acidity, so fresh manure cannot be applied. As top dressing, only humus should be used. When spring planting garlic in water for irrigation, it is useful to add urea at the rate of 30 g. for 10 liters of water. This amount of solution is enough for 2 square meters. m. Except nitrogen fertilizers, potassium-phosphorus are also needed. The first sprouts appear after 12-18 days. During the formation of leaves, top dressing is necessary. wood ash. In addition, it is an effective pest repellent.

Caring for garlic after planting

Agrotechnics for growing garlic is simple. The main condition good development bulbs is a timely top dressing. But it is equally important to ensure planting with regular watering. The lack of water has a detrimental effect on the development of the bulb, so the main issue is to ensure optimal humidity landings. It is important not to overdo it - excess water is harmful. The norm is watering in the amount of 10 liters per m². By the ripening of garlic, watering is gradually reduced, in the last 2-3 weeks before harvesting, the need for water disappears. Equally important are regular weeding and loosening of row spacings. carried out during the completion life cycle plants - between yellowing of the leaves and their drying.

Growing garlic from bulbils

The number of cloves in the bulb is limited, so the most promising is the propagation of the culture by bulbs or air bulbs. Their use increases the possibility of propagation of garlic several times. In northern and temperate latitudes In Russia and Siberia, air bulbs are planted in the spring, and it is very important to preserve them in the winter. They are well stored in inflorescences at a temperature of 15-20°C. Two months before planting, in early March, they are moved to a cooler place. predetermines several conditions: the onions must ripen and be well preserved.

They are planted in five lines with ribbons, deepening the bulbs by 3 cm, and then mulching the bed with humus. Seedlings are cared for in the same way as for spring garlic, that is, they are weeded in a timely manner, watered and fed with any organic matter. In autumn, single-toothed teeth ripen, which are not harvested, but left to winter, not forgetting to cover the crops and organize snow retention. In the spring they germinate and produce a crop in July-August. Growing garlic from bulbs occurs in a two-year cycle, resulting in an excellent culture.

Rare culture - rocambole

Popular in Europe and Asia, the culture of rocambole, or hair onion, is still rarely found in Russia. But gardeners who have already become acquainted with this culture appreciated its excellent pleasant taste. By their own biological features this plant is suitable for cultivation in all Russian regions.

Rocambole is a representative of the lily family, but outwardly resembling large cultivation which practically does not differ from the usual garlic, also loves fertile neutral soils, is responsive to organic top dressing and weeding. At proper care bulbs of this culture reach 250-300 gr.

Diseases and pests

Growing garlic in the open field involves carrying out simple, but requiring attention, operations, the implementation of which guarantees good harvest wonderful culture.

Garlic is divided into winter and spring. Each has pros and cons. Winter gives big harvest but poorly stored. Spring yields a smaller crop, but lasts until next year.

plant species

How to distinguish spring from winter appearance? From the middle of the bulb winter crop a rigid rod sticks out - the rest of the arrow. The spring one does not have such a rod, so it does not shoot. The teeth of the winter bulb are large and form one layer. The cloves of a spring bulb are small and can be arranged in two or more layers. And the main difference is the different landing times. Spring is planted in spring, and winter - in autumn. And now about the main thing - about the rules of landing.

Video about growing garlic

The technology of growing garlic is constantly being improved. So there were several landing methods, which we will now tell you about.

Method number 1 - traditional

Under the culture, a place is taken from under the early harvested plants: cucumbers, early cabbage, radishes, legumes. The site should not be located in a lowland and flooded with melt water in the spring - the teeth will rot and die. The soil is fertilized: humus or rotted manure is introduced, a shovel is dug onto a bayonet and furrows are made every 25 cm. Uncleaned teeth are planted every 10-12 cm. Plantings are closed, watered and mulched.

Photo of planting winter garlic

Method number 2 - double landing

Double planting garlic is relevant for small areas. The main secret is that garlic is planted in 2 levels (tiers). This is done in the fall or at the end of August. The first row is located below, the second - above. We dig a groove deeper and lay out the first level of teeth at a depth of 11-12 cm. Someone will say - deep. Do not worry. They will feel great there.

We fall asleep with earth and lay out the second row at a depth of 6-7 cm. Between the teeth we make a distance of 10-15 cm, between the grooves - 25 cm. Sprinkle with earth. It turns out one tooth over the other. No one interferes with anyone, everything is enough for everyone.

Method number 3 - sowing

You can also not stick teeth into the ground, but sow, that is, lay them on a barrel or just throw them in rows. The only thing that may confuse you is the garlic head lying on its side and the crooked neck. But this does not affect the quality of products, the taste and size of the bulb.

Pictured is planting garlic

The teeth were planted and mulched. In the spring they immediately begin to grow. The tooth that turned out to be lower is more favorable conditions. He is deeper and he is warmer there. He developed the root system better. And the one that is higher warms up faster in the spring.

When to harvest garlic? The bulbs are harvested when the arrow bursts. Why then break out the arrows? If they are left, then the garlic heads will grow less. The arrow takes on food, as bulbils form on it, but it’s worth leaving a few. Garlic arrows will show you when it's ready to be harvested. The arrows are broken out not when they just appeared from the stem, but when they made a circle.

When to plant garlic?

Every autumn this question arises in all gardeners. And here, as they say, how many people, so many opinions. Someone prefers to plant a bulb 2-3 weeks before the ground freezes. The tooth manages to take root and in the spring willingly starts growing. But the early August and September planting is considered not correct, since the tips of the feather begin to turn yellow early in the plant. We will not convince you of the correctness or incorrectness of a particular method. We will tell you about our interesting experience.

We planted garlic in three terms: August 20, September 20 and October 20. Most best harvest gave the August landing. He overwintered the best. If you think about it, it immediately becomes clear why this is so. We planted him early, he managed to take root well, gained strength and immediately drove him into growth in the spring. And the worst harvest was from the October planting. It did not really take root, overwintered poorly and grew little.

If the plant managed to sprout from the August and September planting, then nothing terrible happened. That's the way it should be. To check if the August planting is so effective, plant some of the teeth early, and some when it seems right to you, and then compare the results.

You ask why sprouted garlic does not freeze? When he gave roots, the composition of the cell sap changed, there was more sugar in it. Try freezing the syrup. The syrup won't freeze, but the water will. That is, after germination, it passes into another state, it simply “falls asleep” for the winter.

top dressing

Feeding garlic in the summer closer to harvest is already useless. If you are going to feed him, then this should be done in May - June. Then he gains the weight of the bulb itself from the pen. When he wakes up, he needs it. As a top dressing, take an infusion of biohumus or horse manure. It is desirable to mulch plantings with humus or straw cut into pieces.

The aisles are sprinkled with ash from pests. Mulching helps retain moisture in the soil and protects the bulbs from overheating. You can not mulch the garlic. Cultivation and care then consist of top dressing, regular loosening, weed removal and watering.

Another rule: for planting, choose the largest teeth. Let's plant small - small bulbs and get. If the tops turn yellow, then this indicates damage to the root system. Causes: gnawed roots by pests or the action of soil rot.

If the plantings are mulched, then there is no need to water them. Under normal weather conditions enough rain water. After all, the clove has already grown roots, it will draw moisture out of the soil, and form a good bulb.

Also prefers fertile land. If necessary, humus or rotted manure is added to the soil in the amount of 3-5 kg/m2. The teeth are planted in rows at a distance of 6-7 cm from each other. A distance of 25-28 cm is maintained between rows. The approximate depth of embedding garlic cloves is 3 cm. We will describe two methods.

Method number 1 - traditional

Planted in spring in early spring on April 15-25. Before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and sorted by size. Slices of each size are preferably planted in separate grooves. Care consists in regular loosening of row-spacings, watering and removal of weeds. If the plantings are mulched, as mentioned above, there is no need for watering.

Method number 2 - sprouted teeth

Garlic heads are stored all winter at a temperature of 20 0 C. At the end of March, the onions are disassembled into slices, soaked for 3 hours in water at room temperature, taken out to the cellar, where they are laid out in one layer and covered with rags or film. When the roots grow 2-5 cm long, the teeth are planted in moist soil.

Photo of planting garlic

Spring plants are fed, as well as winter plants, with infusion of mullein, biohumus or horse manure. From inorganic fertilizers, urea is used at the rate of 1 Matchbox on a bucket of water when shoots appear, then after 10 days and a third time at the end of June. From pests in the aisles, ash is scattered.

Harvest spring bulbs during mass drying of the feather lower tier plants in the third decade of August - the first decade of September. The bulbs selected from the soil are laid out in one row for drying under a canopy. The tops must be completely dry. Do not rush to cut the green shoots of garlic, as the bulb receives nutrition from them and continues to grow during drying. Dry tops are cut off, leaving 5 cm.

Garlic tends to degenerate, like potatoes. When propagated by teeth, diseases gradually accumulate in the culture, the yield decreases. To prevent this from happening, from time to time garlic is renewed from bulbs (air). In the first year, single teeth are obtained from the air. In the second year, full-fledged bulbs grow from them. Garlic turns out to be healthy and you don’t have to run around looking planting material especially since it is quite expensive.

Photograph of garlic

Bulbs are taken from plants in which the arrow was left. When the inflorescence bursts and the bulbs turn into the color characteristic of this variety, the inflorescences are broken out, put in a dry place for ripening. Bulbs with a diameter of 4-5 mm are taken for landing.

Method number 1 - traditional

Bulbs are sown in the first days of October. Humus 3-4 kg per 1 m 2 is introduced into the soil, dug up. Make rows up to 4 cm deep at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The rows are watered, every 3 cm air is laid out and sprinkled with earth. In spring and summer, care for crops is the same as for ordinary garlic. By the beginning of August, single-toothed bulbs grow from the bulbs, which are dug out when the tops turn yellow. They are dried and used for autumn planting for a complete bow.

Method number 2 - direct

In the first year of air traditional method single-toothed are grown. In August, single teeth are not dug up, but left for the winter in the soil. next spring plants are carefully thinned out, thus increasing the distance between the remaining bulbs. By the end of May, the distance between rows should be 25 cm, and between single teeth in a row - 10-12 cm.

Video about growing garlic and caring for it

Method number 3 - growing through winter

Bulbs are sown in the first half of June. Until then, they are stored unthreshed in the refrigerator. By the second decade of September, the plants already have 4-5 leaves, a good root system and a thick, pencil-thick stem. In October, winter plants harden and overwinter well. The following year, full-fledged bulbs develop from them.

We shared with you all the secrets that we used ourselves. Now you know how to grow garlic. It's up to you. Choose the method you like, and preferably a few, so that later you can compare the results and grow a huge crop, to your delight and your neighbors to envy.

" Garlic

Garlic belongs to the onion family. It is widely used in cooking and traditional medicine. The plant has a spicy taste and smell, is an excellent antiseptic. Its agricultural technique is quite simple. and its cultivation is not a problem even for inexperienced gardeners. In this article we will talk about landing summer garlic spring.

There are two groups of garlic - summer and winter, they are also called spring and winter. The division of groups is very simple - according to the timing of landing.

The differences between them are as follows:

• winter forms arrows with air bulbs through which it reproduces; summer shooter does not form and reproduces by teeth;
• the summer bulb has a large number of cloves (up to 30 pieces), the winter one has about 10 cloves;
• the main advantage of summer is long storage periods; it can be stored until the next harvest;
• planting dates for summer garlic: end of April - beginning of May, winter: mid-autumn.

To get a good harvest, you need to plant summer garlic in open ground after the soil reaches a temperature above + 5-6 ° С.

This is explained by formation and active growth its roots and leaves occur only at low temperatures.

If the dates are shifted even by 1-2 weeks, the leaves and roots stop their active development, which will adversely affect the yield.

How to plant in spring in open ground

Correct Plot for planting summer garlic should be on the sunny side. The soil should be fertile, with a neutral environment.

Acidic soils require liming with ash. The crop grows best on loamy soil..

Preparing bulbs for planting

Warm storage bulbs(stored at room temperature) are slightly underripe. 2 months before planting, they are placed in the refrigerator.

With bulbs of cold(cellar) storage, such a procedure is not necessary.

Before planting, the cloves are inspected and only healthy and strong are selected. At the same time, the sick, deformed and degenerate (with two tops) are weeded out.

After that, the selected cloves are sorted by size.

All teeth pass disinfectant treatment copper sulphate solution. 8 hours before planting, the teeth are soaked in warm solution nitroammophos; the concentration is 5 g per 10 liters of water.

Bed preparation

The predecessors of garlic can be legumes or cruciferous plants. Also, the culture takes root well on soils where pumpkins or cucumbers were cultivated before it.

The use of nightshade plants (potatoes, tomatoes) as precursors is undesirable due to infection of garlic.

Insofar as root system small bulbs, beds for him should not be more than 15 cm high. The width of the beds is selected 80-90 cm.

Preferably before boarding irrigate garden beds with saline(150 g of salt per 10 liters of water).

How to plant

Pre-required make furrows 5-8 cm deep on the beds. Landing is done with the tip of the tooth to the top.

It is necessary to plant it in the ground to a depth of 2-3 cm from the surface to the tip of the prong. The distance between the teeth is about 10 cm, between the rows - 15 cm. Large teeth are planted separately from small and medium ones.

After planting and filling the teeth with earth, it is necessary to feed the beds with ammonium sulfate(20 g per 10 liters of water) in order to prevent pests from spoiling the seed.

Spring planting garlic:

Growing and caring for the future crop and first shoots

After the appearance of the first shoots culture needs care and feeding. Nitrogen fertilizers are preferred.

A typical composition of the mixture is as follows: 25 g of urea and a glass of mullein must be dissolved in ten liters of water.

Calculation required amount complementary foods are determined based on the area of ​​sowing: per 1 sq.m. you need 3 liters of the mixture. Feeding is repeated after 10 days.

During May and June, the beds should be watered every 5-6 days.. During this period, watering is carried out once, but in such a way that the soil is moistened all the time.

During the entire growing season, to loosen the beds and remove weeds from them. Loosening is done the next day after watering.

Once bulbs start to form, it must be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.

To do this, prepare a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 80 g of double superphosphate and 35 g of potassium chloride. The approximate consumption of the composition is 5 liters per 1 sq.m.

Fertilization is repeated after 10 days. In the interval between applications, best of all on the 3rd day, wood ash is added to the soil.

Even when planted at the end of April, the garlic does not always manage to ripen. It is necessary from the end of July to control the degree of maturity of the bulb by the leaves.

If they began to dry out in early August, the garlic has time to ripen. If the leaves are still fresh during this period, its ripening should be accelerated.

There are two ways to speed up the ripening of bulbs.. The first is to partially pull the bulbs out of the ground. In this case, part of the roots is injured, and all the forces of the plant go not to the growth of leaves, but to the ripening of the bulb.

In the second method, the leaves of each bulb are tied in a knot, their growth stops, and nutrients begin to intensively accumulate in the bulb. Any of these procedures is carried out in mid-August.

Diseases and pests

The main crop pests are onion fly and black mold. And although garlic has an excellent protective function, it is advisable to monitor its condition.

Helps with onion flies watering with saline (200 g of salt per 10 liters of water).

Against the fungus black mold spraying plants with a Bordeaux mixture was well recommended.

Cleaning and storage

Traditionally, crops are harvested in mid-September. After harvesting, the plants are dried: the first hour in the garden, then under a canopy or in a well-ventilated area.

Do not dry garlic in the sun. This is fraught sunburn and reduced shelf life.

He is tied up in braids and dried in limbo.. At the end of the drying process, it is sent for storage, having previously cut the dry leaves at a distance of 5-7 cm from the top of the head.

store garlic in the coldest corner of the apartment (warm storage) or in the basement or refrigerator with a temperature of +1-5°C (cold storage).

Tips for harvesting and storing garlic:

When to plant winter garlic? “It’s late in Norilsk, early in Derbent,” they joke In most other cities and regions of our vast country, garlic is planted right now, in the first half of October, when about a month remains before the cold weather. Some users garlic is planted two weeks before frost, others - forty days. Most of our gardeners endure a period of three weeks: during this time, the garlic has time to take root, but not time to sprout.

Mariska FORUMHOUSE Member

When do more or less stable frosts usually occur in your area? So "count back" from this period. Garlic should take root well before the onset of this winter, but it does not need to germinate.

In such a business as growing winter garlic, agricultural technology is much more important than the variety. Mariska always grows whole mountains of winter garlic - it is easier to process it into marinades, fermentations and seasonings, which she makes in in large numbers. Seed material buys in the vegetable department of the supermarket.

Mariska FORUMHOUSE Member

For planting before winter, I use Chinese garlic, which I buy in the usual vegetable department of the supermarket (it grows with a bang). There is usually not enough garlic for annual "plantation" plantings (massively "leaves" for processing). And I store winter garlic (3/4 kg "winter supply") no worse than spring garlic, in a pantry on the terrace at + 10-12 t.

Garlic bought in the vegetable department of the supermarket or on the street from the grandmother can give beautiful harvest, perfectly stored and surprising with good palatability. The main thing is to do everything right.

Wernner Member of FORUMHOUSE

Plant at double the depth of the head (if the height of the head is 4 cm, plant the teeth at a depth of 8 cm), observe the "polarity": bottom down.

Tear off all the roots at the head of garlic, they are superfluous, they only store the infection, cut the stem from the head by 10 cm and store it that way. Directly on the day of disembarkation, divide the head into slices without damaging the peel.

Garlic is disassembled into slices right before planting. If you dismantled it before, check if everything is in order with the planting material - if the bottoms are damaged. And keep the garlic in a cool place so it doesn't dry out.

Squirrel FORUMHOUSE participant

It's okay if your garlic is stored dry (so that the roots are not thrown away), and this is not so scary. I always collect large cloves from those heads that I send for cooking. They lie and wait in the wings when I plant them.

People who are seriously engaged in the garden, every year about a third seed are replaced with single teeth, growing them from bulbs.

Iriska11 Member of FORUMHOUSE

By planting bulbs and cloves, I not only renew the garlic, but also choose the best of the best. I have more options to choose from. (By the way, once in 10 years from one variety of light purple garlic, only by selection, I ensured that part of the garlic was in a very dense white shirt with purple streaks, and part remained light purple. The first were larger, but with 3-5 cloves, and the second -normally). And for 4-5 years I will have the garlic that suits me. Large, healthy, lean.

Bulbs are sown two weeks earlier than single cloves or garlic cloves are planted - about five to six weeks before frost. Good, large bulbs grow into strong bulbs in two seasons. From small bulbs in the first year, small single teeth can be obtained, in the second - large single teeth, and only in the third - full-fledged heads.

Seven Member FORUMHOUSE

Polinka FORUMHOUSE Member

I usually pour everything into the ground when I run out of patience to choose only large ones, and there are still lots of places. So, really nothing worthwhile grows out of this trifle, you are tormented by choosing these kids.

Bulbs are planted in winter in the same way as ordinary garlic, only the planting depth is smaller, about four centimeters, and the distance between them should also be small - about seven centimeters.

Seven Member FORUMHOUSE

If the bulbs are the size of a match head, then little will come of it. It is recommended to plant bulbs at least 5 mm in diameter. You can, of course, plant smaller ones, but then you are unlikely to get good single-toothed ones.

A bed for garlic is prepared in advance, about a month before planting. Humus is applied in the amount of half a bag per bed (3 meters per meter).

HDD Member FORUMHOUSE

It is better to prepare the bed in advance, about a month before planting - humus or compost (what is), add ash, you can superphosphate.

Do not bring fresh manure under any garlic and do not plant it in the shade. Veseloff after harvesting, he sows mustard on garlic beds, then digs up and adds superphosphate. The owner of the garlic farm Svetlana Dmsnik recommends disinfecting garlic beds by planting a vetch-oat mixture.

Dmsnik FORUMHOUSE member

After harvesting the garlic, plant a vetch or vetch-oat mixture (not vetch-rye!) or lupins. As it grows by 20-30 cm, cut it off with a trimmer, and after it wilts, plant it in the soil. Vika disinfects the soil well, and it is not without reason that it is planted on cattle burial grounds anthrax. It is almost impossible to find pure vetch in stores; basically, there is a mixture (vetch-oatmeal). When embedding in the soil, add limestone flour (unlike dolomite, it has more magnesium) and a double portion of fertilizer for onions and garlic. When it's time to plant, feel free to plant.

It is not necessary to germinate garlic, but it will not be superfluous to soak it for a short time in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Dmsnik recommends briefly soaking it in a seed treater before planting (protects plants from diseases, and also stimulates their growth and strengthens the immune system). Seven uses salt and copper sulfate solution .

Seven Member FORUMHOUSE

Somewhere they write that it is necessary to soak in salt water (5-10 minutes) and then - in a solution of copper sulfate (the same amount), I soaked it this way in past years. But then they suggested that it is better to soak in a seed treater for bulbous seeds, I bought it this year and will soak it in it. Although there is such a preparation for garlic, I suspect that this is the same thing.

Jasmin FORUMHOUSE member

I think that a solution of manganese will never hurt. Disinfection or...

According to the experience of the garlic growers of our forum, garlic can be soaked before planting: in Fitosporin (for 5-6 minutes); in saline solution (3 tablespoons of sodium chloride per 10 liters of water, lower the entire head for 10 minutes, rinse in running water and only then divided into cloves); in a warm pink solution of potassium permanganate; for 3 minutes– in a solution of common salt (1 tablespoon per 2 liters of water), and then– for 3 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate (1 tsp per 2 liters of water).

AT last years the "miner's" method of planting garlic is gaining popularity, when it is planted early, still warm, but deep.

Mariska FORUMHOUSE Member

Garlic is planted in late August - early September like this:

Mark rows in the garden;

In these rows, they “make holes” with a depth of 12-15 cm with something;

A tablespoon of sand is poured into each "hole", a clove of garlic is "crammed" (bottom down) and a tablespoon of sand is poured on top;

The planted bed is leveled with a rake.

They write that with such an early, but deep planting, garlic takes root well, but does not rise before winter. In the spring, such garlic sprouts without problems, grows healthy and large, ready for harvesting in early July.

The traditional planting of garlic in recent years, due to anomalous "winter autumns", gives a lot of experiences - that year garlic goes under the snow with leaves of 10-15 cm. So, I'm looking for ways to "non-experiential" growing winter garlic.

Some members of the forum grew garlic in this way. The result was different each time, but there are more disappointed in this method than satisfied.

According to the experience of the forum participants, garlic can be planted in the same place for three years, no more, then take a break for 4-5 years. You can not plant garlic on potato beds - there is a risk of infecting it with fusarium and nematode, and on beds where other onion crops grew - due to the abundance of common pests and diseases. And the best predecessors of garlic are pumpkin, cabbage, legumes, cucumbers and early cabbage. But crop rotation can only protect garlic from diseases; it is powerless against pests.

dmsnik FORUMHOUSE member

About pests. The quarantine zone, for example, for the onion fly is 1 km, so there is no crop rotation for summer cottages there can be no speech. If a neighbor has it, it will be in all suburban areas. Carrots, marigolds and other crops (probably a lot of them) in the fight against onion fly will not help in any way either as a preventive measure, or, even more so, as a treatment! And, of course, all planting material must be dressed in a good dressing agent.

From time to time, strange myths pop up in the horticultural community about how to plant garlic. In recent years, for example, an inexplicable fashion has appeared to plant it root up. “Well, people, they themselves would stand on their heads and walk!”,- the user is affected Polinka.