Poor garlic rises what to do. Growing garlic: the necessary conditions and subtleties of agricultural technology. How to grow garlic large, vigorous, so that it can be stored for a long time. Unusual Storage Methods

Winter garlic does not need advertising. Almost every summer resident tried to grow this vegetable, but not everyone succeeds. It is even more difficult to grow selected, large and healthy heads that delight others. Growing garlic has its own tricks and subtleties. Having learned them and putting them into practice, you can grow a real miracle garlic for everyone to enjoy.

Guess optimal time planting winter garlic is an art. It is planted in September. The exact dates depend on the weather.

The earlier the teeth are planted in the soil, the larger the heads will be next year. Knowing this, gardeners try to plant garlic early. But if you do it too early, then he will have time to rise before the snow falls, and then the crop will die.

To plant garlic on time, you need to remember what spring was like this year. With early spring, autumn colds will come earlier than usual. In such a year winter garlic can be planted in the first decade of September.

For planting choose large teeth without spots and traces of rot. A few hours before planting, the teeth are soaked in a slightly pink solution of manganese, and then, without drying, they are planted in loose soil, pressing with a finger or using a special planter. Planting depth must be at least five centimeters.

Manual planter - most useful device, which facilitates the planting of not only garlic, but also tulips, gladioli and seedlings.

Planting depth depends on soil composition. On sandy loose soil, the teeth are closed to a depth of 7 cm. On heavy clay soil, 5 cm will be enough.

If you plant teeth often, the heads will not be large. It is best to plant with a two-line tape, with a distance between lines of 30 cm. Leave at least 10 cm in the line. The row spacing can be arbitrary, but not less than 40 cm.

Planting material is better to grow yourself. In Russia, there are few varieties of garlic adapted to the conditions of a particular region, so buy planting material complicated. You should not try to experiment and plant garlic bought at a vegetable market where vegetables are sold for food. This culture does not adapt well to the new climate, so imported garlic dies.

It is safer to buy garlic for planting from friends who know how to grow it or from neighbors. Let the name of the local variety be forgotten or unknown - this is a common thing for garlic. The main thing is that this variety can grow in the local climate. On the next year you can select the largest heads from your own crop for planting, and then do selective selection.

If garlic is propagated only with teeth, then in a few years it will degenerate. The fact is that nematodes and spores of microscopic soil fungi that live in the soil accumulate in the teeth, which cause garlic diseases. To get rid of the infection, you need to propagate garlic every few years. air bulbs(bulbs). Bulbs are planted in the same rows as commercial garlic and grown using the same technology. In the first year, the so-called "single-toothed" grow out of the bulbs, and in the second - the heads.

Garlic beds can be sprinkled with organic matter only before winter, but not in spring.

Garlic will not grow well after tomatoes, potatoes and onions. The best predecessors for it are legumes, cabbage, pumpkin and green crops.

Compaction lovers can grow winter garlic with dill. To do this, after determining the teeth in the fall at the "place of residence", later on the same bed, you need to sow ordinary dill before winter, simply scattering the seeds on the slightly frozen ground and walking along the surface of the soil with a shallow rake.

spring dill will sprout along with garlic. Weeding such beds will be more difficult, you will have to limit yourself to pulling out only large weeds. But on the other hand, from one garden it will be possible to harvest two crops at once. By the way, garlic loves such a neighborhood very much and grows extremely large and healthy next to dill.

Harvesting winter garlic

When to harvest winter garlic? Harvesting begins when the leaves turn yellow and the stems fall. In order to know for sure that the time has come for harvesting winter garlic, several garlic arrows are left on the plantings as an indicator. When the inflorescences begin to open and mature bulbs appear in it, they begin to dig out the heads.

If you delay, the heads in the ground will fall apart into teeth and the garlic will lose its presentation, and it will be more difficult to remove it.

If there is not enough time for care

If you dig up a head of garlic, you can immediately notice that it has short and unbranched roots. The root system of garlic covers a very small amount of soil. Its roots never go deeper than 30 cm into the ground, so garlic is not able to extract food and water from the lower layers of the cultural horizon and is very picky about watering and nutrition.

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Winter garlic is a root vegetable that has a pungent taste and is a great addition to many dishes. It is used in traditional medicine and culinary. Has 4 to 12 teeth proper cultivation- large. Planting dates - autumn. Harvest lasts until February. Reproduction is done by teeth. Shoots of winter garlic withstand short-term frosts - up to -15 degrees. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the garlic is already activated, and when the temperature rises above 0 degrees, the first shoots appear. For their further development needed low temperatures. If the weather is warm and dry, then the heads form small, perhaps even with 1 clove.

Why winter garlic did not rise

As soon as the soil warms up to 7 degrees in spring, garlic begins to grow. If there are no garlic sprouts when positive temperatures are established and the snow cover is melting, then it's time to ask why winter garlic does not sprout.

Garlic sprouts poorly in spring reasons:

1. The seed material is frozen.
2. The garlic is rotten.
3. The sprouts have not sprouted yet.

Let's try to understand each of the reasons.

The seed material is frozen
Teeth can freeze for several reasons:

• Winter was unfavorable for this crop: little snow cover, low temperatures. All this could be the reason that the garlic did not sprout in the spring.
• An incorrect planting depth has been selected.
• The beds were not mulched.
• Selected planting material not adapted to climatic conditions landing region.

The garlic is rotten

The soil for garlic must meet the following requirements: the soil must be sufficiently loose and fertile, without flooding, it is better to choose sandy or loamy soil types.

One of the reasons why winter garlic does not sprout in the spring may be the choice of the wrong soil. Also, waterlogging can cause the death of planting material.

The sprouts did not germinate

Garlic does not sprout what to do? In order to make sure that everything is in order with the garlic, and he just did not have time to get out, it is enough to dig out one or two cloves. It is better to do this from the edge of the garden. If everything is in order with them, the roots have grown, then we must wait for further shoots, the planting technology was simply violated. In the event that the garlic is gone, you can still have time to dig up the bed and plant something else.

Need to dig out a couple of cloves

From all of the above, it is clear that garlic sprouts well, it is important to follow the rules and terms of planting. It must be planted at least 2 weeks before establishment. sub-zero temperatures. If night frosts are predicted after planting, then mulching can save the crop. For these purposes, straw and sawdust are used.

It is important to choose soils with a neutral balance. To receive the right soil you can add lime or, conversely, acidify. If this is not done, then the planted cloves will adapt to the soil for a long time and will not be able to gain strength for wintering. Seed material must be acclimatized to the planting region.

To activate growth immediately after the snow melts, top dressing is carried out. nitrogen fertilizers. They are simply scattered on wet beds. In the event that the spring is dry, then the bed should be watered.

Planting in the beds

How to fix the situation

Winter garlic did not rise, what should I do? Do not panic, the procedure is as follows:

1. Initially, it is necessary to determine the cause, for this the bed is dug up a little and the condition of the planting material is assessed.
2. If the cause of non-germination is the freezing of the cloves, then they should be replaced with new ones.
3. The same applies to rotten garlic, it is also replaced with a healthy one.
4. If the teeth are in order, then it is likely that the landing was made shallow. In this case, you should not worry, shoots will appear a little later.

Spring garlic transplant

Very often, looking at their beds in the spring, gardeners wonder why they didn’t ascend. winter garlic? As mentioned, there are several reasons: this is the wrong landing, and the choice of an unsuccessful place and not acclimatized seed. But there is always a way out. You can just plant the garlic again.

It is not difficult to do this, because he is quite unpretentious. Work is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Seating is being prepared. Do not forget the recommendations for soil preparation.
2. Dig out the fruits of garlic. Do it carefully to root system left intact. Such garlic can be taken at the previous planting site, very often undigged heads remain. Quite often, gardeners plant winter garlic between strawberry bushes or along raspberry plantations.
3. Planting material is placed in prepared holes and watered.
4. They fall asleep with earth, compact the earth near the roots.

Important! In order for the root crops to be able to transfer the transplant as painlessly as possible, it is necessary that the soil be moist.

In the future, top dressing is needed. To do this, use urea and complex fertilizer. The first time fertilize after the appearance of 3-4 leaves. The second time - in 15-20 days. The third time is at the end of June.

As always, the most effective are the tips ordinary people, who have been doing what they love for several years, they know a lot about how to grow this root crop. Here's what people say about how to avoid poor germination of garlic.

Landing dates

The most important thing to do in order for garlic to please with a good ascent in spring is to plant it on time. If you plant him too late, he will not have time to gain strength and simply freeze. And when early landing- will rot. That is why it is so important to plant within the time limits that have been established through many years of practice.

Planting garlic in October

If we talk about a specific date, then best option is landing from the third decade of September to the middle of October. At this time, the garlic will have time to take root, the root system will grow 10 cm deep, but at the same time shoots will not appear yet.

Place to land

The soil for planting should be rested. She is released from the previous culture at the end of July. Garlic is planted a month and a half before the first frost. It is also recommended to compare landing dates with lunar calendar and plant on auspicious days.

By people's councils, a place so that the root crop can successfully overwinter, they choose sunny, with dry and fertile soil.

Important! Do not use fresh manure. This makes the garlic worse. The site for garlic is fertilized no later than 14 days before planting.

Ideal predecessors are zucchini, pumpkins, peppers, cucumbers and other annual crops.

What do people advise when choosing a landing site:

1. You need to choose a site in winter, snow cover should remain on it for a long time.
2. AT winter period there must be ice.
3. Where pets don't run.
4. The sun should rise over the site for most of the day.
5. The site has a fence.

When combining all these parameters into a single whole, we can conclude: in order to grow good heads, it is worth choosing a place with north side next to the fence. In this case, the sun will illuminate the garlic area for a long part of the day, the fence will prevent snow from blowing, and the snow cover will remain for a long time, and there will be no question why garlic does not come out after winter.

Seed material for planting

The cloves are taken whole, the skin is intact, it is not necessary to germinate them in advance. Planting material is disinfected and hardened. Hardening is carried out as follows: the cloves are placed in the cold for 1 month. Dry the roots before planting.

Landing pattern

Landing is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Furrows are made on the prepared site. The distance between rows is 25 cm, the depth is 20 cm.
2. Pour a layer of sand into the furrows. Thickness - 3 cm, so the garlic is protected from rot.
3. Now you can plant cloves. If the seed is large, the distance from the root crop to the root crop is 12-15 cm, if it is small - 8-10 cm.
4. The most important thing is that the garden bed must be mulched. Mulch thickness - 2 cm. Mulch will protect from frost and retain moisture.

Observing all the planting technology and following the recommendations for choosing a place and seed, you can not be afraid that in the future the question will arise why the garlic planted before winter did not rise.

At the end, you need not only to plant garlic in compliance with all the rules so that it sprouts in the spring, but also to get good harvest take good care of him.

Varieties of garlic that expel arrows are always winter. But those who do not have arrows at all, not all spring ones. Among them there are also winter ones. Considering that we plant not varietal material in the gardens, but regrading (planting material is not sold in seed stores, we grow what we bought on the market), it is quite possible to make a mistake and plant winter garlic in the spring, along with spring garlic.

No. 2. Plant immediately

It is impossible to plant teeth immediately after digging up the beds. Yes, these are not small seeds, and they cannot lie to a “unsimilar” state. The earth will still sag, and the teeth will go deeper into the soil. That is, they will all be different depth. As a result, some of the plants in the spring will begin to outstrip the rest and oppress them. The yield per unit area will immediately fall sharply. In order for the seedlings to be leveled, prepare the bed in advance, at least a week in advance, so that the earth settles a little under the influence of rains.

Planting garlic is very simple - an average of 5-8 cm deep, and at the same distance from each other in a row. The larger the teeth, the greater the distance and the deeper the landing. Row spacings are made from 20 to 40 cm. Bulbs are also planted in much the same way, only smaller and denser - they are left 2-3 cm deep and between plants in a row. At the same time, row spacings are made at least 20-21.5 cm.

No. 3. Too early

With garlic, they act according to the principle - better late than never. This is a very flexible culture. If it is planted in August, the plantings will not die. Of course, the overgrown feather will disappear during the warm period, the plant will be weaker in the spring. The harvest will be small, but the garlic will survive. How should it be planted?

Calculating the right moment is very difficult. You need to monitor the weather and plant the teeth in the soil 2-3 weeks before frost. In such a way that it develops roots, and the feather does not come out. Miscalculate - garlic will rise unproductively, spending a significant part of the stored nutrients, the crop shortage will be significant.

No. 4. Or it's too late

If frosts come right after planting, it's not as bad as planting early. Roots may well grow in long autumn or spring thaws. And if they don't? Then there will be a crop shortage, but not as serious as with too early planting. Plants will begin to develop later, not having time to fully use the winter moisture reserves.

No. 5. Bulbs should be planted at the same time as the teeth.

When planting garlic, there is general rule- air bulbs are planted a little earlier than the teeth. The teeth can start rooting almost immediately, but the bulbs do not germinate for longer, and they need 3-4 weeks to awaken and develop roots.

No. 6. Plant everything

Teeth must be sorted. For landing, you need to choose those that are larger, but of the same size. Otherwise, there will be the same result as with landing immediately after digging. It is better not to use the largest teeth. You can allocate for them a separate bed-hole, where they will not oppress their neighbors.

No. 7. Nitrates are evil

good garlic difficult to grow without mineral fertilizers. The thing is that it begins to grow immediately after the soil thaws. And even in the most fertile, manured areas, nitrogen is not available to the plant at this time. Gardeners are surprised to see the yellowing and drying leaves of garlic, which otherwise looks quite healthy. Replenish temporary nitrogen deficiency ammonium nitrate(urea will not work - it does not start working immediately). It is scattered over the "shard" (frozen upper layer soil), or water the beds with an aqueous solution from a watering can ( Matchbox per 10 liters of water).

No. 8. Possible without scales

Garlic, like fish, cannot be without scales. If the teeth have damaged scales, then they can begin to rot. Some gardeners, on the contrary, believe that scales prevent teeth from growing. This is a big mistake. It is not the scales that prevent the teeth from growing, but the remains of the old bottom from below. They need to be carefully cleaned, but the scales cannot be damaged in any way.

No. 9. Do not break arrows

The size of the garlic cloves is directly proportional to the resulting bulbs and inversely proportional to the number of air bulbs formed. Therefore, the arrows are always removed - immediately when they appear. If the arrows have time to grow more than 10-11 cm, the garlic head will no longer be large.

No. 10. Wait for degeneration

You can not wait until the garlic is crushed. Plant a couple of the largest cloves every year to get air bulbs, through which you can heal the planting material.

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In the spring we came to the garden and found that our garlic had risen very poorly. We planted three different “varieties”: one of our own and two others bought on the market. Great hopes were placed on large garlic, which is usually traded by southerners. It had white bulbs and very large teeth. All three varieties were planted on the same bed one after the other. Southern garlic died completely. Our own rose, but rarely. Garlic bought from a pensioner proved to be the best. He was not so big, but lilac. Lilac garlic is said to keep well.

At the beginning of May, we planted several more rows of our winter garlic, which lay with us until spring. But when they began to harvest, they found that the bulbs of the new garlic did not start. One thick stem grew, like a leek. Why did this happen? After all, we planted our garlic, that is, the same as in the fall. In autumn, normal bulbs have grown (pictured). Now it is clear that garlic will again have to be purchased for planting. Tell me, which garlic to choose so that it winters well? N.P. Maslova, Nizhny Novgorod region

In our newspaper, we have already discussed the topic of poor wintering of garlic (Magic Bed No. 8 (185), 2010). The reason is that in Nizhny Novgorod region December was freezing cold without snow. If the garlic was planted shallowly and not covered with tops or other mulching material, then in most cases it froze.

Now about what different varieties garlic overwintered in different ways. Large garlic bought at the market was most likely overfed organic fertilizers. Under these conditions, he grows very large onion(gardeners say, “inflated”). This is good for sale: garlic quickly gains weight and gets an excellent presentation. But it is not suitable for storage. Usually such bulbs are poorly stored and do not winter well.

At the same time, there are examples when garlic brought from the south (but grown with normal doses of fertilizers) winters normally. Naturally, subject to the conditions of planting: a depth of 5 cm and mulching the beds.

And finally main question: why did the bulbs of the garlic planted in the spring not start? Varieties of garlic are divided into winter and spring. Almost no difference in taste. By appearance you can distinguish: the spring has a lot of small teeth and very thin, “papery” scales (in the winter they are dense).

The main difference is in the timing of landing. Winter garlic is planted two weeks before hard frosts (in middle lane it's about mid-October). Spring garlic is planted in the spring, as soon as the ground allows (usually in April). The point is that for normal growth winter garlic must go through a cooling period. Only in this case does he tie an onion. When planting in the spring, and even in late dates(in May), the bulb does not form. The plant simply thickens the base of the stem. Such plants will not winter, they will simply rot. But you can eat them and put them in pickles in the same way as ordinary teeth.

If a lot of “stem” garlic has grown, try salting it. To do this, finely chop and sprinkle with salt. You can simply leave the garlic in the garden and consume as needed. Unlike the “normal” garlic, the leaves of the “spring” garlic have not dried up yet. As long as they are green, the plant continues to grow.

When choosing garlic to plant, try to buy it at garden shows or nursery stores. Or buy from gardeners you know, if you know that they store garlic well.

When buying, carefully inspect each bulb so that it is not soft, without dark spots. When planting garlic, it is recommended to remove the shell from it and discard all the teeth with dark spots. Better yet, do not plant such garlic at all. If the bulb is infected with a disease, then it is also present on clean teeth, it just has not yet manifested itself. for landing and long-term storage only perfectly healthy bulbs are suitable.

Remember, only healthy garlic will keep well. To grow this, do not plant garlic in its original place and follow the planting rules.

You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Garden" 2010 No. 16.