How to plant onions in order to grow large bulbs. What can be planted in June without risking being late? Can onions be planted in July?

Carmen planted on June 4th.

I'm planting onions. Sevok. Auntie exclaims indignantly: you still haven't planted onions! When will it grow for you? All people, like people, put on May, and you just got ready.

Stuttgarden Risen planted on May 2.
To be honest, few people take my experiments with onions seriously. And I stubbornly plant onions almost any time from April to October. In April - on a green lane and an early turnip, in May on vacancies a little sevka, at the end of May - on a turnip for storage, in June and July in each vacant place in the garden. Moreover, I buy sevok for these purposes in June, when merchants already give it away for a pittance and you can safely demand to select it better. Well, in late September-early October, I plant sevok before winter.

So it turns out that all summer I have a juicy and young green feather, and a lot of turnips grow. Of course, when planting at the end of June or in mid-July, you won’t get a large turnip, but there are a lot of them for food and harvesting, albeit a small size. And I also make dried onions from such small onions - they turn out terribly tasty and sweet chips, it’s even a pity to throw them into the soup, we’re so crunchy, scaring all sorts of influenza microbes.

Carmen landing June 21st.

Of course, I don’t promote my own way of planting onions, I just tell summer residents and summer residents that if they didn’t plant onions in May, it doesn’t matter - plant when you have the opportunity and it will definitely please if not with a large turnip, then with a delicious feather. It is only important before planting to soak the sevok for a day in a solution of phytosporin or some kind of humate.

A mixture of planting varieties on July 13th.

Picking a bunch of green onions in early spring is not a pleasure. For owner country house or dachas to get a feather on the greens is easy. A polycarbonate greenhouse will speed up the process.

Types and varieties of onions that give thick greens

Dense greens give multi-germ varieties. Consider the most productive varieties - a multi-germ variety that gives a large amount of feathers per season and popular varieties of shallots:

Cipuccio

Chipuccio - precocious, productive variety shallot. Greens after planting can be cut in 2-3 weeks. The pen has original spicy taste. Bulb weight up to 50 g. Vegetation period 70 days.

Aristocratic

Aristocratic - shallots. From one sowing bulb in the nest, from 6 to 12 new pieces weighing from 50 to 100 g are formed. People call this species a family one.

The variety is early, full-fledged bulbs ripen in 70 days. Cut greens are ready in 4 weeks.

Variety Aristocratic is used to produce greenery on an industrial scale.

From one bulb of the Aristocratic variety, 6-12 new ones are formed.

Old Russian

Old Russian (red, yellow) - a type of shallot. Gives a powerful, bright green feather with a waxy coating. The seed material is stored well and for a long time (2 years). The variety is resistant to many diseases of bulbous crops. Up to 10 pieces are formed in the nest.

Reproduction is only vegetative, as arrows do not form. Gardeners consider this species the most cost-effective for forcing greens. Cut shallots are ready 20-30 days after planting.

Lilac ringing

Chives Lilac ringing is 7 kg greens per season from 1 sq.m. soil. The variety is early ripe, when grown in open ground, cutting is carried out after 20 days. During the summer, several cuts are made. The variety is frost-resistant.

Chives Lilac ringing

studgarten riesen

Studgarten Riesen is a multi-bearing, high-yielding variety with good immunity to most diseases. The productivity of the variety is high.

In the presence of 4-6 primordia in the seed from 1 square. m. receive up to 15 kg of greens.

When is the best time to plant onions outdoors?

For home consumption, turnip greens can be planted in open ground as early as the end of April, provided that the earth has warmed up and its temperature at night and in the morning is not lower than 12 degrees.

For commercial purposes, turnips for greens are grown in a greenhouse. If there is heating, distillation can be done throughout the year.

On an industrial scale, onions for greens are grown in greenhouses

The main thing you need to get a pen:

• quality seed;
• fertile substrate;
• watering;
• top dressing;
• backlight.

A full crop of green feathers is obtained at 12 hours light day. For growing in greenhouses, select varieties with short period rest.

With long daylight hours, the optimum air temperature 18-22 degrees. Yield drops at lower temperatures. With more high temperature air reduces product quality.

How to plant sevok

There are proven methods for planting turnips on greens. Experienced gardeners successfully apply planting methods:

• pavement;
• tape.

Bridge landing method

In addition to the landing method, it is important choose the right place and prepare fertile soil (substrate) before sowing any variety.

Choosing a place to grow

Choosing a place for planting sevka on greens, take into account the principles of crop rotation.

Plant after crops:

• cucumbers;
• zucchini;
• pumpkins;
• cabbage;
• tomato;
• potatoes.

In the shade, the onion grows poorly, the feather is pale and thin. Ridges are better placed outdoor, sunny place . During rains, it should not be stagnant moisture.

Proper soil preparation for planting

We prepare a bed for planting in the fall before planting. Determine the acidity of the soil. For acidity, add dolomite flour . Consumption - 50 g-sq. m. Onions love loose soils with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5.

With increased acidity of the soil, add dolomite flour

In the fall, for digging, add:

• Humus ½ bucket;
• Superphosphate 2 tbsp. l;
• Potassium chloride 1 tbsp. l.

Consumption is per sq. m. Dig up the soil by 20 cm with a shovel or walk-behind tractor. In the spring, dig again and add urea 10 gsm m. 7 days before sowing, pour the ridge with a solution blue vitriol. Pour 10 liters of water into a watering can and dissolve 20 g of the drug in it.

Planting onions for distillation on a feather

A good green growth will provide high-quality seed material.

Before planting, the bulbs should be stored in a warm room. Before planting seed sevka in the garden, they need to be sorted out. Reject damaged copies. Sort by size. Bulbs give the highest feather yield. 2 to 4 cm diameter, weighing from 15 to 40 g.

For growing onions on a feather, it is best to choose bulbs 2-4 cm in diameter

1. The selected material must be moistened and kept in a warm room at an air temperature of 25 degrees for 48 hours.
2. a quarter length trim the tops at the bulbs.
3. Dissolve 30 g ammonium nitrate in 10 liters of warm water (35 degrees), lower the bulbs into it for 16 hours.

Approximate seeding consumption with the bridge method 13 kg per sq.m. The consumption is large, because the bulbs are stuck into the ground tightly to each other. Aisles are not made. The advantages of this method are obvious:

• the landing area is saved;
• all the forces of the plant go to the formation of the feather.

The bridge method is especially beneficial to use to grow onions in greenhouses.

The tape method involves furrow formation at 10 cm intervals. The bulbs are placed in furrows close to each other or with a small indent of 1-2 cm. Furrows fall asleep thin layer earth (2 cm).

Ribbon method of planting onions

Care rules

The main care of the crop in the open field is in proper watering . In its absence, the feather is bitter and thin. With an excess of bulbs rot, the crop suffers.

To maintain the required humidity, take into account the weather and check the soil moisture at a depth of 3 cm. It is tentatively recommended to water 2 times a week in the absence of rain.

Water only in the evening. This will eliminate unnecessary heating of the soil. Onions do not like high temperatures.

If the soil is prepared correctly and filled with organic matter and mineral fertilizers, top dressing can be omitted. With the tape method of planting, loosen the ground between rows, remove weeds.

When to harvest green onions

The crop is harvested, focusing on the length of the pen. There will be seedlings of the same length on the entire ridge if the seeds were calibrated in size before planting and sets of the same variety were planted.

The commodity size of onion feathers is 24-42 cm

For all varieties, the requirements for the length of the feather are the same. Commodity is considered the size from 24 to 42 cm. When this length is reached, the feathers are cut for sale or own consumption.

It does not take much time and effort to get a feather green for home consumption. Before you engage in forcing turnips into greens on a large scale, it is worth evaluating your capabilities on a small scale. Choose the most productive variety, master the technology of preparing planting material and soil. With the right approach, success is guaranteed.

What meat broth without golden onions, what vinaigrette without squares of emerald green onions? Do you remember that the first meal of Pinocchio was a large sweet onion? Juicy, crunchy, tear-jerking, this best meat companion is always welcome on the kitchen table. Let's find out how and when to plant seeds and sets in open ground in order to get a high-quality crop of not only greens, but also heads. And so that spring chores in the garden turn into a mountain of strong onions, a video describing the correct landing is attached to the article.

How does the bulb relate to air temperatures

Onion is a plant "on its own mind", so if it is not stored and grown at the temperature it wants, it can give too small bulbs or even bloom - "go to the arrow." The explanation for this must be sought in the origin of the plant.

This is a typical inhabitant of the Asian semi-deserts, storing water in the succulent leaves of the bulb in order to survive the driest season. Its life cycle is built in such a way that in the first year of life the plant makes the most voluminous reserves of sugars, and in the second year it blooms and forms a “nigella” - small wrinkled seeds. But this is at home. In the conditions of the middle lane, with relatively poor sun, in the first year the plant manages to form only tiny bulbs - sets. The following summer, turnip onions are obtained from them, and seeds a year later.

planting material

The continental climate of Asia is quite severe in winter, so the onion is used to low temperatures during the dormant period. They contribute to the complete completion of the physiological maturation of flower buds. This means that if the bulbs were stored at 5-10 degrees, the culture will bloom in the spring. For the formation of vegetative buds, and therefore powerful greenery, higher temperatures are needed - 18-20 degrees. This corresponds to the storage of sevka in heated rooms, but not near the batteries.

Site selection and soil preparation

Remembering Asia, we select a site for onions where we can create conditions close to optimal:

• in no case is it a lowland and not clay;
• sandy loam or, in extreme cases, peat;
• a lot of sun;
• good ventilation;
• no fresh manure, only rotted;
• as predecessors - potatoes, cucumbers, peas.

Attention! Make sure that other types of onions, garlic and carrots do not turn out to be the predecessor of onions.

Luke is hard to survive among the weeds, so in the fall it is necessary to carry out a merciless fight against them. After digging the site, we wait for weed shoots, treat them by leaves with the Tornado preparation (75 ml of the preparation diluted in 3 liters of water per 1 weave), remove half-dead plants, wait for the survivors to rise and dig again.

We introduce fertilizers carefully: phosphorus-potassium for autumn digging, and everything that contains nitrogen - for spring.

Preparing seedlings for the growing season

We divide the bulbs intended for planting into two fractions by size, simultaneously removing completely dried and diseased ones. Small ones will be planted earlier, around the end of April. Firstly, they need more time to turn into full-fledged heads, and secondly, due to physiological underdevelopment, they are unlikely to start flower-bearing shoots even at low temperatures.

Before planting onions, you need to properly store them.

We plant a large fraction later, in May, since they are more likely to bloom under the influence of frost.

With a high probability of infection with fungal diseases ( powdery mildew, peronosporosis) sevok before planting is treated with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Now let's decide what we want to get from our set: heads or feathers. In the first case, the bulbs are planted as they are, in the second, a few days before planting, the top must be cut off from them, this stimulates the growth of greenery.

As mentioned above, it depends on the air temperature during storage and in the initial period of growth whether the set will give a strong turnip or frail arrows. Therefore, we make sure that the temperature is:

• about 20 degrees during storage;
• about 40 degrees before planting - for this, the seeds are heated in the sun or even in hot water;
• the soil should warm up to 10-12 degrees at the time of planting.

Spring planting onions

The onion has a weak fibrous root system, so the soil under it must be ideally prepared: loosened, leveled and even rolled. On even beds, we draw furrows with a scoop handle in the west-east direction, leaving 20-25 cm between them.

Planting onions

Bulbs are planted at intervals of 8 to 12 cm (depending on the size of the fraction), we press them into the soil so that later there is at least 3 cm of soil above them. If they are higher, they can be pushed to the surface, which is fraught with death from lack of moisture. A deeper embedment is less harmful, but, as a rule, affects the shape of future heads: they are formed elongated, which, however, many cooks like.

We compress the bulbs with earth, sprinkle, level the soil. In the future, we take care of it, like any other crop: we water it, protect it from pests, remove weeds, and feed it.

Advice. Try growing onions on combs. To do this, close them very finely, and then rake the soil from the row-spacing into rows.

And how to get the sevok itself

Funny tiny bulbs of sevka are obtained by sowing nigella. Coal-black, similar to crushed anthracite, onion seeds are soaked for 12 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate (remember powdery mildew) and in the first days of May they are sown on the same ridges as the sevok itself, only close up smaller, within 1 cm.

A popular method of obtaining sevka seedlings. Seeds are sown in convenient containers with soil and kept on a windowsill under a fluorescent lamp. After germination, the temperature is reduced as far as possible, for example, the seedlings are rearranged on a glazed loggia.

Waterlogging is dangerous for onion seedlings, so it is better to water it with a spray bottle. For open ground, it will be ready with a feather height of 12-15 cm. Planting time is the earliest, as soon as the ground thaws enough to form holes in it for a plant.

Cut a plot for onions in your garden, provide him with proper care - and this doctor will repay seven ailments with kindness: in broth, in salad, and in fragrant frying, he will contribute to the good health of your family.

Planting onion sets: video

Onion sets: photo

Dear friends, the May spring sun is warming more and more confidently, which means that it's time to plant onions. We hope that you have already prepared onion sets.

This is the name of a one-year-old onion grown from seeds (nigella) and representing a small onion.

Sevok can be grown independently from seeds or purchased in garden centers and shops.

How to choose sevok

It is important to choose the right quality planting material. Bulbs should not be shriveled, already sprouted. In this case, their stock nutrients already went to the pen, and a good turnip will not work.

Also inspect them for damage and rot, this is important because such a set will not make a good onion head, it will be prone to disease, will not grow well, or even rot.

Here the principle applies: quality is more important than cheapness. It is better to purchase good planting material than discounted, but not meeting these criteria.

A good set of small size, dense, with a shiny smooth, whole and tight-fitting husk.

When to plant onion sets outdoors

The most popular month for planting onions is May. Specific dates depend on your climate zone. In central Russia, onions can be planted throughout May, while the spring moisture of the soil is preserved, which the onion respects very much.

When planting onions, it’s not even the date that is more important, but weather and soil temperature. No need to rush to land if the weather is cold and wet. Gotta wait warm days when the soil warms up to at least 15-20 degrees Celsius.

If you rush and plant the onions in the cold ground, then this will not lead to anything good. Although the onion tolerates frost and cold quite well, its character deteriorates because of this. He will certainly take revenge on you and, instead of a good turnip and greenery, he will grow flower arrows for you.

So it's better to wait for a steady warm weather no rain than no harvest. Pay attention not only to moon calendar as the ultimate truth, but also on the weather forecast, so it will be more accurate.

What to do so that the bow does not go to the arrow

Even before planting, it is important to know why the sevok goes into the peduncle and how to avoid it.

The reason for the fact that the bow shoots is the wrong storage temperature of the planting material, the lack of adaptation before planting, and the violation of the rules of care.

Let us explain in more detail: onion sets must be stored at positive temperatures, because it is the cold that provokes the onion to create arrows. This is a signal to launch a self-preservation program and give offspring as soon as possible. Therefore, as soon as you plant such a set, it will begin to produce flower stalks in order to give seeds faster.

The key to a large and strong onion turnip is storage in comfortable conditions, no cold stress.

But what if you bought an onion set in a store, and you have no idea how it was stored? No problem. Purchased onions need to arrange an adaptation period.

To do this, two weeks after the purchase, we keep the onion near the battery or in another warm place. And then we store before landing only when room temperature and in the dark, so that it does not begin to germinate ahead of time.

If there is no time to warm up the battery or the heating has already been turned off, then you can do the following: arrange a bow warm bath. In a bowl with warm water(40-45) degrees spread the onion and leave for 8 hours, periodically adding warm water. Then we take out the heads, dry it thoroughly and store it at room temperature until planting.

For planting on a turnip, choose medium-sized heads, because large ones are more prone to shooting and are best planted on greens. Do not plant in cold soil. For the same reason, watering should be avoided. cold water.

Processing and soaking onions before planting

First of all, when preparing a seed for planting, you need to carefully sort it out. Arm yourself with several containers for sorting.

It is necessary to reject all damaged and small specimens, leaving medium-sized bulbs for planting on the head. Large onions, small and even sprouted ones are suitable for greens. But empty, shriveled, missing - we throw it away.

Next, carefully cut off each dry tail at the crown with scissors. This simple operation will help them germinate faster and better. Well, you need to be afraid that an infection will get into the cut, because the sevok will be treated for diseases before planting.

Should onions be soaked before planting? And what is the best way to do it? Let's figure it out.

To feed the bulb so that it grows large, it is recommended to dilute complex fertilizer in water (40-45 degrees) and soak the onion there all night. When the sevok is saturated with usefulness, you can proceed to it. protective treatment and landing.

Most popular recipes:

• Soaking onions in potassium permanganate. We make a strong dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and soak the onions in it for 2-3 hours. After that, they will need to be washed under running water so that concentrated potassium permanganate does not damage future young roots. Potassium permanganate prevents fungal and bacterial diseases.
• Soaking onions in saline. 1 st. l salt diluted in one liter of water, immerse the bulbs in it for 2-3 hours. Salt also prevents decay and disease.
• Soaking in blue vitriol. 1 tsp of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water, for 10-15 minutes. Copper sulfate disinfects seedlings and protects them from diseases.

Processing onions before planting with salt, potassium permanganate and ash

On the three-liter jar warm (60 degrees) water we take 2 tbsp. l with a slide of salt + dark pink solution of potassium permanganate + 2 tbsp. l wood ash. Soak for 2 hours.

Processing onions before planting from pests with birch tar

The most nasty onion pest is, of course, the onion fly. Fortunately for us, she cannot stand the smell of birch tar. And if you want to protect your crops, then it would be useful to soak the onion in the solution as well: 1 tbsp. l. tar in a liter of water for 10-15 minutes.

With the same solution, you can additionally shed plantings during the growing season.

Onion planting and care in the open field

As we know, onions cannot be planted in the same place where an onion bed was also located last year. The probability of diseases in this case greatly increases, and such landings should be avoided.

Choose a place where tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, legumes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage were previously planted. The earth after them retains its nutritional value, and this is necessary for the onion to grow a good turnip. Onions and carrots have good neighborly relations, they scare away each other's pests, so you can plant them side by side.

He also prefers that the soil is not heavy, loose and nutritious. Places likes light, with good drainage, without stagnant moisture.

It is better to prepare the future onion bed in advance in the fall, loosen the ground well and add humus and compost. In the spring, one to two weeks before planting, we loosen the soil and spill it with organic humic fertilizers. Gumi Kuznetsova will do.

Planting an onion on a turnip (per head)

We prepare grooves about 8-10 cm deep. The distance between them is at least 15 cm.

We spill them with Fitosporin solution for disinfection. You can use both powder (1 tsp per 10 liters of water) and paste (1 tbsp of diluted paste per 10 liters of water).

We plant our seedlings in the spilled grooves at a distance of 10 cm from each other. We sit him down on what is called “on the shoulders”, i.e. not only to cover the roots, but much deeper. This is necessary so that the bulb has good contact with the soil and does not hang out, because. She won't have roots yet.

Sprinkle wood ash on top as fertilizer and disinfection. And we fill the grooves with earth.

Planting onions on greens (on a feather)

When we do not have a goal to grow a turnip, but we only want greenery, then to save space, we suggest that you use a bridge planting.

This is when the bulbs are planted one to one very tightly and not very deep. At the same time, landing in open ground is not necessary, you can use a container with earth. Or select a small place in the garden.

Mixed nib and head fit at the same time

When we don’t have a lot of space, but we want to good bow grow and eat greens, then this method will come in handy. We make grooves as usual, but we plant sevok in them in a checkerboard pattern and quite often.

With such a goal that some of these seedlings will grow on a turnip, and some can be pulled through as they grow, not greens and consumed fresh.

The rest of the steps are the same as for classic fit on a turnip (see above).

Onion care

When we have organized a good bed, in a lit place, with nutritious loose soil, we only have to weed it in time so that the weeds do not interfere with the growth of the crop. Watering is carried out after planting once a week.

Onions also need frequent loosening of the soil (between rows and between plantings, especially after rain, so that the earth does not turn into a crust) and top dressing.

At the end of May, it is necessary to feed it with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, in mid-June, it needs potassium fertilizers and ammonium nitrate. For those who prefer to do without chemicals, green fertilizers from weeds and nettles, biohumus and ash are suitable.

Feeding is also effective. ammonia: 2 tbsp. l of ammonia dissolve in 10 liters of water, it is necessary to water with such a product on wet ground, and not on dry ground. Therefore, we pre-moisten the beds. Ammonia will drive away pests and nourish your plantings with the necessary nitrogen.

We do this top dressing three times with an interval of 10 days. And you will forget about the yellowing of the onion feather, and the onion fly will not stick its nose into your beds.

So dear friends, there is nothing complicated in growing onions, you will definitely succeed.

How to treat onion flies

Planting onions in the spring - onion passions!

Planting onion sets in the spring - what is a set?

​Related Articles​​As soon as the soil begins to thaw, the entire layer of mulch or branches should be removed from the beds. Under them, the soil will warm up much longer! Instead, you can sketch out snow that has not yet melted - let the melt water water the earth properly. If you notice that in some places the onion greens did not appear, plant the bulbs previously soaked in water in the free holes - do not stand idle for nothing. Do not forget about the predecessors - tomatoes, cabbage, peas, green manure are considered good, all bulbs are bad , cucumbers and carrots.

Consisting of 1 kilogram of salt and 5 to 6 liters of water. Place in brine your sevok for 2-3 hours, then rinse it repeatedly. The procedure will help you get rid of any fungi, and also kill onion fly larvae. Without drying, put the sevok in bags before planting about 6-12 hours before planting. During this time, the beginnings of roots appear. Have a good harvest.

When to plant onions in spring - loose soil and warm sun!

Onion care Immediately before planting the sets, pour boiling water over them for about two seconds. Pay attention to the change in temperature, if there is a significant drop in temperature after planting the seed, then dousing with boiling water will not affect the yield;​

put under the film.

Is it necessary to cook bulbs - what are gardeners afraid of?

Seeds are sown mainly

A very good soil for growing onions is loamy, but acidic soil is unsuitable for growing.

The site must first be fertilized with mineral organic matter or manure. Do not bury the bulbs deep in the soil, their neck should remain outside. Immediately after planting, water the onion with lukewarm water.

How to plant green onions

Planting onions in the spring on the head of gardeners is frightening with the possible shoots of "arrows" - coarse stems with a flower ovary. Well, when there are only a few of these flowers in the whole garden, however, a large number of them can significantly reduce your crop, because the ovary will take all the strength, and the bulb will grow completely inconspicuous, but besides this, its core will be solid. Such an onion will not last until spring - the core, as a rule, dries up and begins to rot, and the bulb rots with it. Large onions grown from seeds are most prone to the appearance of arrows. Therefore, before disembarking, sort future harvest by degree of size. Planting a seed or planting on a head is one and the same process, characterized by planting small bulbs obtained by planting seeds a year earlier. Experienced gardeners can grow crops from seeds in one year, but this process takes a lot of time and effort, so the vast majority plant sevok. ​

Instruction

• By the way, caring for winter onions is much easier - shoots begin to appear literally from under the snow cover, and weeds simply cannot keep up with them. active growth. When the weeds start chasing, it will be much easier to pull out this unnecessary greenery - the onion is already strong, well-rooted, and pulling it out together with weeds will not work even if desired.
• The earth should be loose, neutrally acidic - in heavy clay soils onions do not grow well in the winter. A place for winter planting should always be chosen in a well-lit, elevated place - this recommendation applies to any crop that is sent to the ground in late autumn. In the spring, the bed should be the first to free itself from snow and substitute a black canvas of earth sunbeams. If the landscape on your site is the same, then in the spring the bed can be covered with black agrofiber, which perfectly warms the soil under it. Another important nuance- moisture should not stagnate in the garden, since excessive moisture has an extremely bad effect on the bulbs.
• Many summer residents who are accustomed to planting onions in the spring will be very puzzled by their winter planting - is it worth sending the onions to the ground in the fall? There is a point, especially if the previous harvests year after year did not please you, many bulbs shot arrows, pests annoyed, and so on and so forth. As you know, if you want to get a different result, you need to perform other actions! Of course, we recommend practicing first in small beds, leaving room in the garden for the spring planting of this crop - there are many nuances in winter planting, you won’t take everything into account at once, so get ready to learn from mistakes.
• During germination, it consists in weeding it from weeds and timely watering, as well as loosening to a depth of no more than 3 centimeters. The crust of the soil, which turned out after rain or watering, must be carefully broken without damaging the onion, otherwise it can be harmful and slow down its growth.
• It is necessary to plant in moist soil warmed from 7 to 8 degrees Celsius.

When and how to plant onion sets in spring

If you decide to plant in open ground, then it is better to choose a time around mid-May. It is better to carefully monitor the condition of the soil. The most favorable moment is when the earth is dry on top, but inside is still wet and when squeezed in the hand, a lump forms. This period just falls on the time of planting carrots. When planting by alternating onions with carrots, you will save onions from many pests, as carrots release phytoncides that repel harmful insects.

Stages when spring planting onions

1. wide band
2. Luke loves the light
3. Use top dressing in the form of ammonium nitrate (dilute 20 grams of nitrate per 8 liters of water), potassium chloride (15 grams per 7-8 liters of water), superphosphate (15 grams per 8 liters of water). The first top dressing is necessary already a week after planting the onion. The second - 8-10 days after the first feeding. The duration of growing green onions in the spring is about a month. After the onion feathers have reached a length of 30-40 centimeters, it is harvested by hand.

Preparing the land for sowing or planting onions

You can correct the situation even before disembarkation - experienced gardeners it is recommended to dip large specimens for one minute in water heated to 50 ° C. Potatoes, peas and beans, cabbage are excellent predecessors for onion beds, but it is impossible to re-plant it in the same place even for two years otherwise, caring for onions planted in such an unusual way is no different. Watering onions in a dry season should be as soon as you notice that the greens are bent in places - this indicates the plants are wilting. However, in the second half of May - early June, watering is already completely stopped, since at this time the bulbs begin to ripen. On poor soils, top dressing, which is applied in the form of irrigation, will not be superfluous. For a nutritional composition, a glass of bird droppings or mullein is diluted with 10 liters of water, and a tablespoon of urea will not hurt either. Three liters of this liquid should be distributed over square meter landings

So, as soon as the right weather forms, you will have everything ready for landing! By the way, this way you also win a lot of spring time, when you need to plant everything at once - after all, the onion is already in the ground. In no case should sevok be soaked before planting - plant it without any manipulation. Melt water, which in the spring will water the bed in excess, is an excellent growth stimulator and kills many pathogens. Nature has taken care of everything, hasn't it? The first advantage that you will notice when sowing in winter is savings on planting material. If larger, more impressive bulbs are planted in the spring, then in this case you will need the smallest set, whose average diameter is less than 1 centimeter. They try to get rid of it in the fall in the first place - by spring it simply will not survive, it will dry out, and therefore they are sold at the lowest prices. A liter jar holds so much of this planting material that you get tired of planting it. Harvest should be started at the end of summer or at the beginning of autumn, when green feathers gain growth and full strength. With a strong desire, feathers can be plucked earlier, then these will be very young small shoots.

Sowing onion seeds

To begin with, before planting a sevka, you need

Sevki are small onions. The distance between the centers of the strips should be 30 centimeters, while the seeds themselves are laid to a depth of about 2 to 3 centimeters into the ground. There is a little trick, if after two weeks you make the next sowing, then you will get a continuous crop of green juicy onions, so the place should be sufficiently lit. The interval for growing onions in one place should be no more than 3-4 years. Therefore, plan a landing site, coordinating in advance with other perennials. Onions grow well if vegetables such as legumes, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and potatoes were grown in the ground before it.

Onion planting and care

In spring, onions left in storage begin to sprout. In order not to throw it away, you can grow green onion at home. Fill a box or pot (depending on the amount of planting material) with peat soil and plant the bulbs in it, close to each other. Water well and after 10 days put in a well-lit place (windowsill). It is necessary to water the onions 1-2 times a week. If the bulbs are not sprouted, then they should be pre-soaked in warm water for a day, then cut off the neck and planted in the ground. Then they should be kept in warm wet tissue day, and two more days in water at room temperature. The rest of the planting material will not hurt to withstand three days at the radiator, because even small onions can shoot an arrow without warming up. You can also soak the sevka for 10 hours in a solution of complex fertilizers. If you want to decorate the table with homemade onion-feathers in the spring, then you can cut off the tops of large onions.

• If there are rampages in your area fungal diseases, be sure to spray the plants with an antifungal when they reach a height of 15-18 cm. For spraying, you can use the good old blue vitriol or more modern antiseptic preparations. Vitriol is diluted in the proportion of 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water and a tablespoon must be added liquid soap so that the product adheres well to onion feathers.
• Of course, for a good harvest you need good grade Luke. Any zoned one, preferably one you have tested in spring plantings, will do. Unless absolutely southern varieties that are afraid of frost do not fit. Today you can already find a special set for winter plantings, but so far this is a rarity. In central Russia, varieties such as

​The second advantage that owners of small plots of land will especially like is the very early harvest. Already in July, your onion will fully ripen! After harvesting, the garden bed can be planted with early ripening crops, greens - they will have plenty of time to grow. Another plus of early ripening is the absence of an onion fly at the time of the appearance of the first shoots. The active breeding season of the onion fly falls in the second half of May, and by that time the winter onion will get stronger, the greenery will become denser and more resistant, the larvae will no longer be as scary as spring plantings. And one more nice bonus - in July, when the time comes to remove the onions from the garden, you will have plenty of time, because the bulk of the crops are still green with might and main.

Sevoc can be grown by yourself make grooves in the ground

• , which are obtained from the first harvest of seeds. To obtain good harvest bow and prevent pasture in the arrow of greenery, you must adhere to the following requirements: Based on the opinion of professional summer gardeners, Before plowing the soil, on it
• Greens are very useful for our body, as it contains great amount useful substances. Therefore, everyone tries to plant a different number of crops in their garden, such as dill, parsley, onions, cabbage and others. Apart from useful qualities, greens also spice up dishes and refresh the table. Onions play a huge role in the treatment of various ailments and stimulate appetite during meals.
• ​Onion

Even in one season, pathogenic bacteria and microorganisms that harm this particular plant are concentrated in the ground under the onion. Pests also join the whole "bouquet" of diseases. Against this background, the impoverishment of the top layer of soil after the onion does not seem to be such a big problem. Therefore, plan your beds so that the onions change their place of "residence" annually and land away from the previous place, at least through one bed. Undesirable predecessors for it will be garlic and carrots, you can’t plant them in the places where cucumber seeds grew, so it’s very important to carefully plan the garden. Harvest should be done after the formation of new feathers has stopped, the stems have fallen together, and the bulbs in soil acquired a characteristic color for the variety. This is best done in dry weather. Stems and roots should be immediately cut with a knife or scissors. Onions must be dried in a shaded, ventilated room, and only after this procedure be sent for storage in a dry corner of your cellar or attic. It is quite possible that this experiment will become your favorite way to plant onions. Danilovsky, Strigunovsky, Arzamas.

Winter planting will surely appeal to those who grow onions for sale - an early harvest allows you to earn much more money for it than at the time when this crop ripens in everyone's garden. And don't worry about storage - although most early vegetables are not suitable for long-term consumption, these onions, once dried, will feel great all winter.

or you can buy it on the market. When buying, try to choose the sets yourself, if the seller allows. If not, then be sure to sort at home, while removing the rotten, crooked and dry sivok, as well as the one that seemed suspicious.

and sprinkle them with ashes. Between sets, the distance should be approximately 8 centimeters. When planting seedlings, it is strictly forbidden to press in, as over time the soil will push it out. When planting, the bulbs should be the top almost at the surface of the soil and, therefore, about 2 centimeters deep. Before planting, about two weeks before planting, the seedlings must be heated for 10 to 12 hours to a temperature of 45 degrees Celsius, using closed heating elements, such as for example, like a room battery or a stove. Then the sevok should be viewed and removed the sick and dry. This is necessary in order to

best time to land

scatter wood ash Land preparation for sowing or planting onions;

considered one of the few cultivated plants which is cold resistant. He carries it quite easily. spring frosts. Green onions contain a large amount of vitamin C and minerals necessary for the health of every person. The use of greens during the period of spring beriberi helps to increase immunity and fight colds. And how nice it is to pinch off the young feathers of green onions grown in your own summer cottage.

​Of course, there cannot be the same landing conditions for each region, but you can navigate by weather signs. If frosts are no longer expected, the spring turned out to be early and warm, you can plant onions as soon as the soil warms up a little. With more late spring landing takes place throughout April and even at the beginning of May, the same dates are relevant for larger bulbs. In the spring I plant as early as possible and the heads are 2-3 cm in diameter. They usually make a good green mass. I plant smaller onions in parallel or a little later, but it also fits later and not so evenly. We have enough beds for the family with total area 7-8 square meters. It is better to plant onions every 10-14 days throughout the spring, so you will have green onions on the table longer. However, on the market you will probably be offered a mixture of the most different varieties- we need the smallest one, and it is often considered waste.​

Landing before winter - experimenting with onions

The essence of the experiment - what will we get?

The choice of the moment of winter onion planting is the most important nuance in this whole experiment. name the exact date simply impossible! In the middle lane, frosts usually begin as early as mid-October. But from year to year, the weather can bring the most unexpected surprises, such as a prolonged thaw after falling snow or prickly frosts during a period when, according to all forecasts, it should still be warm. Therefore, be guided strictly by the current situation - the situation is considered optimal for planting onions when frosts make themselves felt every night, but there are still several weeks of relatively warm weather ahead.

Make a purchase two to three weeks before planting. Purchased sevoc must be stored at room temperature and in the light, you can also keep in the sun. Experience shows that after such storage, it sprouts for a week and ripens ten days earlier.

If planted under a film, then the landing is made two weeks earlier. And the landing and care procedure is no different from the one described above.​

save healthy sevok

We choose a good time - plant or wait?

- this is the month of May, since the probability of frost is already minimal, severe flooding and flooding of the soil and other negative nuances are much less than in the rest of the spring months. It is necessary to decide on the landing method, namely:

With the expectation of 5 square meters, about one bucket. This leads to a decrease in all kinds of pests in the soil, and also fertilizes the soil. In this case, the greatest result will be if the ash is dry and fresh. Also, before planting on the ground, it is advisable to apply humus 2-3 years old about 3-4 kilograms per square meter, then you will get juicy green onion feathers. grow not only in open ground in summer, but also in autumn and winter period in panics, greenhouses and even in room conditions. To grow onions on a feather, choose one of the following varieties: Arzamas, Bessonovsky or Rostov. A large-sized set or onion samples are landing. Best Harvest obtained when using a sample, the diameter of the bulb should be 3-4 centimeters.

The earliest possible beginning of April in the greenhouse. Take onions, both sprouted and unsprouted, whichever you have. Leave the germinated so, and cut off the unsprouted top with a knife. Then pour all this over night in a bucket with cold water. The next day, drain the water, and plant this onion in the greenhouse. Not too deep, the very top should not be underground. And in 2 weeks you will have an excellent green onion.

The nuances of a winter landing - do not lose sight of it!

It is important to sort out the onions before winter - calibrate the planting material, discard dried and diseased bulbs. First, you plant a large fraction, then a medium one, and separately - the smallest one, which usually goes to the greens. Calibration significantly improves the yield - the onion sprouts more amicably, grows everywhere at the same speed. It should be planted deeper than we do in the spring - in grooves 4-5 cm deep. A less deep planting is fraught with freezing of the set, because, compared to the same garlic, the winter hardiness of the onion is much lower. If you hurry up and send the set into the ground ahead of time, it can not only take root, but also sprout. Greens, alas, will freeze out already at the first serious frosts. If you are late, then the onion will not have time to take root before the winter and will simply lie in the ground in a state of deep sleep until spring - in this case, almost all the advantages of such a planting will be leveled. Before planting a purchased set, gently exfoliate everything that can peel off. If you are going to plant an onion on a feather, you need to cut off the entire neck before planting, but if on a turnip, you can not cut anything.

After the sowing has been planted, the beds are abundantly watered with water. Do not forget that in dry and even hot weather, the onion must be watered quite often, but without flooding it.

From the so-called transferorosis or in the popular way - powdery mildew. It manifests itself on onions in the form of brittle feathers, yellowing and stunting, and also strikes during a period of prolonged oversaturation with moisture;

Spring chores with winter bow

plant in open ground;

The temperature at which the seeds germinate must be at least plus two degrees Celsius, therefore perfect time onion seed sowing - this is after the frosts have passed at night. It is also possible to sow onions earlier in order to get an early harvest, but when the temperature is already above zero during the day, and wrap the onions with a film at night.

Planting onions and caring for them.

Planting onions is done in early spring, you can do it in autumn (in winter). In this case, it is important to root the bulbs well before the onset of frost. Plant the bulbs in rows, 10-15 centimeters apart, with a distance of 6-8 centimeters between rows. Approximately 5-8 kilograms of onions are planted per square meter. On highly fertile soil, onions can be planted in another way - bridge. In this case, the bulbs are planted close to each other, and the planting material will take much more.

In this case, it is important not to overdo it with waiting - if you are late with the landing, the bow will begin to release a lot of feathers, while the root system will lag behind the upper part. After a while, the greens, of course, will wilt, but the bulbs will no longer be able to achieve greater growth. But also too early, when there are frosts in the mornings, bulbs should not be planted, otherwise they may suffer from too long a stay in the ground without growth. The first shoots may appear both in a few days and in a week, depending on the soil temperature.

How to plant onions on greens in spring?

Olga Voronova

I wonder why not a word about the perennial onion-batun? Once planted (sown), and for 3-4 years we only cut and water, over the summer you can cut 3-4-5 times, and it keeps growing. Sample onions can be sown in the first year of sowing a batun, since there will be almost no harvest in the first year, and then it will be a problem to have time to use it - otherwise it will begin to bloom. After 3-4 years, the bushes grow strongly and they can already be transplanted and rejuvenated. The transplanted bushes will produce crops in the same year, that is, there will be no further break ...

Frans Khasanovich Khalilov, Bugulma

Keep the distance between the grooves at least 15 cm, and between the bulbs - 5–7 cm. It may seem that there is too much space between the sets, but if you do everything right, then in May the onion will be large and will take everything free space assigned to him. You can plant thicker if part of the onion goes to the greens. To protect the bed from freezing, it should be covered with spruce branches, or with a large layer of foliage from forest trees, straw or plant stems. This should be done after the first frosts grab the soil - by covering the ground hard from frost, we will eliminate the risk of the seedlings getting wet.

We prepare the solution

You can grow green onions at home in winter, but spring comes and we are drawn to our dachas and plots. Bow on their household plots many grow. However, not everyone is planting onions correctly.

And from this the amount of the crop is less than it could be. in central Russia and the methods are described in this article.

Planting and growing onion sets

Onions, as a rule, are grown from sets in the middle lane. In order for the harvest to be good, zoned varieties are used for planting. Sets are sorted, and dry, diseased and sprouted bulbs are removed. Planting onion sets is not very difficult.

Any variety of sevka before planting warms up in the sun or near the battery, and is planted only in well-warmed soil. If this is not done, the bow will begin to shoot. It is best to plant in the first decade of May.

If you tighten the planting, the yield will inevitably decrease. The bulbs are soaked for 12-20 hours before planting. And so that the onion grows well, it is cut off at the shoulders sharp knife. As a result, plants mature and develop simultaneously, resulting in a good long-term harvest. Recommended planting parameters:

• It is better to plant sevok in rows 8-10 cm apart. The gap between rows is 20-30 cm. The onion is planted to a depth of 2-3 cm.

With a deeper planting, onion formation is delayed, and with a shallow one, growth slows down. If the bulbs get into a dry layer of soil, they stick out and may die. The soil for onions should be rich in humus, with a minimum of clay. Some craftsmen manage to grow just huge onions, read about this in this article.

Planting onions directly into the soil

In some regions of Russia, for example, in the south and in the middle lane, onions are obtained by sowing seeds directly into the soil, but it is better to germinate the seeds first. The bed for this is prepared in advance.

In autumn, the earth is dug up, stones are removed from it. In spring, the soil is loosened and fertilized with mineral fertilizers. Seeds are planted to a depth of no more than 2 cm. The first shoots will appear in 20 days.

Under the film, onions are sown three weeks earlier.

Features of planting and growing leeks

Leek is very popular in Europe. However, in Russia, the leek is not so widespread, and few people know the rules for planting it. Leek - perennial with long, flat, semi-folding leaves in the center.

Leek has a lot of fiber, proteins, sugars and vitamins. Leek tastes sweetish. Leek is recommended for people with overweight, as this onion variety improves metabolism. Unlike other varieties, leeks contain little essential oil, and there are few calories in it. leek long growing season, so it is grown in seedlings.

Seeds for seedlings are sown in March. Leek is planted in open ground only with the arrival of heat, when the earth is no longer cold. Green young leek leaves are eaten, but the false bleached stem that forms the lower leaves is especially valuable.

Actually, because of the stem, the leek is grown. The length of the stem is usually 10 cm, in some varieties, however, it reaches 60 cm. useful properties a leek can take half a year. To get a leek crop in October, the seeds must be sown in March.

So that they rise well, they are soaked for a day in warm water, and then dried. The beneficial properties of onions have been known since ancient times. He is a favorite not only in the beds, but also on the table and is used in numerous folk recipes beauty and health. Do it right, and he will delight you with a rich harvest! Planting is half the battle, now it’s important good care for onions. Do not forget about such an unpleasant pest as the onion fly. Read the article on how to deal with the onion fly.

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What to plant in June?

tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and zucchini are recommended to be planted in June. Even if May was hot, then there is still no need to rush to plant these crops, because the weather can be changeable.

Choose elevated and sunny places for planting, as crops do not like an abundance of moisture, but due to a lack solar heat productivity decreases. If you planted root crops not in spring, but in early summer, then they will be better stored. Pay attention to some subtleties of cultivation.

Plant radish until June 20, after planting, water this crop regularly. carrot planted in June, harvest in September. If you miss the time, then the root crops may lose juice. Chinese cabbage should be planted in late June or early July.

In autumn, you will get juicy and large heads of cabbage. Plant beets in a sunny place, soaking the seeds before planting. When the sprouts erupt, let the seeds dry out, and after that plant them.

Weed beet beds in a timely manner, as this crop especially does not like weeds. Plantings must be thinned out twice a season. Harvest must be harvested before the first frost - this is important.

If the beet care is correct and of high quality, then the culture will ripen in about two and a half months after planting. In June, be sure to sow dill to greenery and twigs have gained strength by the time you start canning vegetables for the winter. Also make beds with asparagus beans , peas, spinach and lettuce. Plant onion on pen and onion.

shrubs, whose root system is closed, can also be planted in open ground in June. Remember that the sun is quite insidious this month, so young plants will need to be shaded. To keep recruits warm, watering can be increased. Subscribe to new articles - enter your e-mail

GROWING ONIONS FROM SEVKA

To obtain a large turnip, the best planting material is a set of 1.5-2.5 cm in size. PREPARATION OF SEVKA FOR LANDING

Before planting, the onion sets are sorted out, all dry, bare, diseased, damaged, cut, sprouted bulbs are removed, the remaining ones are sorted by size so that the seedlings are uniform. First, large, then medium and small bulbs are planted in the garden.

If for planting you take your onion sets, which were stored at a temperature of 18-20, then its additional heating is not required. If you buy planting material, then 2-3 days before planting, be sure to warm the bulbs near the heaters at an air temperature of 30-40 "C.

You can carry out another treatment: just before planting, pour the seeds into a bucket, pour for 1-2 minutes hot water(55-60 ° C), and then lower for 1 minute in a cold one. If you do not do any processing, then the planted onion sets can go to the arrow.

After heating, the bulbs are soaked in a nutrient solution. In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska, or nitroammophoska, or "Growth-1", or any complex fertilizer, stir well and dip the bulbs in a cloth bag into this solution for 8-10 hours.

Then, for the prevention of fungal diseases, a bag of onions, without washing, is dipped for 5-10 minutes in a solution of copper sulphate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water) or in a solution of cherry-colored potassium permanganate. Processed bulbs are rinsed clean water and start landing.

BED PREPARATION A bed for planting onion sets has been prepared since autumn. Its width is 100 cm. All plant waste is removed from the garden, sprayed with a disinfectant solution of copper sulphate (1 tablespoon of copper sulphate, or copper oxychloride, or polycarbocin per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1-1.5 liters per 1 m2.

Onions grow well in neutral soils. Therefore, dolomite flour or chalk or a ready-made deoxidizing substrate (available at the Seeds store) is added to acidic soil, at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 1 m2. Then the bed is dug up with a pitchfork.

Before frosts, the bed is additionally shed with water, and in winter it is not bad to throw snow from the bed. All this is done for good freezing of the soil. As a rule, on such a bed, onions are less damaged by diseases and pests.

In the spring, organic and mineral fertilizers, depending on the composition of the soil: m2 5-6 kg of humus, 4-5 kg ​​of peat, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea or crystallin; - per 1 m2 5-6 kg of humus, 5-6 kg of peat, 8-10 kg of coarse-grained river sand, 100-150 g of expanded clay drainage, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea; - per 1 m2 5-6 kg of humus or compost, 8-10 kg of coarse river sand, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea; - per 1 m2 1 bucket of humus or compost, 1 bucket of peat, 1 bucket of loamy or clay soil, 2 tablespoons of dry fertilizer "Breadwinner" and 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska. The bed is dug up to the depth of a bayonet shovel, leveled with a rake, slightly compacted and disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1 liter per 1 m2.

The prepared bed is covered with a film for 2-3 days to better warm the soil, since the sowing planted in cold soil (below 12 ° C) can go into the arrow. LANDING ONION SEVKA

In the southern climatic zones onion sets are planted in the third decade of April, in other areas - in the first decade of May. It is impossible to be late with planting, otherwise, due to lack of moisture and high temperature, the onion will develop slowly.

Before planting the bulbs, the bed is marked: grooves are made to a depth of 4 cm with a distance of 20-25 cm between them. The soil is watered from a watering can with a fine strainer with water at room temperature (20 ° C) at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m2.

The bulbs are planted in grooves with a distance of 8-10 cm from each other so that the soil layer above the shoulders of the bulbs is no more than 2-2.5 cm. If the planting is too deep, the ripening will be delayed, and the bulb itself will change shape.

With a shallow planting, the bulbs are exposed and their growth stops, especially in hot, dry weather. Shoots appear 5-6 days after planting. CARE OF ONION-TURP Care consists in watering, weeding, loosening, feeding and processing.

Onions are quite picky about watering, especially in the first 2.5 months (May, June and half of July). In May, it is watered every week from 6 to 10 liters per 1 m2, in June - every 8-10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters per 1 m2. in the first half of July - every 8-10 days at the rate of 8-10 liters per 1 m2.

If the second half of July is hot, then you can water it 1-2 times in 8-10 days at the rate of 5-6 liters per 1 m2. Water from a watering can with a small stream so as not to break the leaves. Watering is completely stopped 15-20 days before harvesting.

You can not water the onion with cold (below 18 ° C) water in order to avoid disease with downy mildew. Keep weeds out, they create high humidity and conditions for fungal diseases.

Weeds are best removed from moist soil when they reach a height of 3-5 cm. Onions grown in unweeded areas have a thick, juicy neck, which makes them difficult to store.

Every two weeks, the bed is loosened, especially after watering and rains, in order to maintain good air access to the root system. Loosening is usually carried out to a depth of 2-3 cm.

During the growing season, 2-3 top dressings can be done. it is recommended when the onion leaves grow weakly, have a light color. In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tablespoon of urea and liquid fertilizer "Ideal" and spend 2-3 liters per 1 m2. given 12-15 days after the first.

In 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska or organic fertilizer"Fertility" and spend 3 liters per 1 m2. carried out when the bulb is formed with a diameter of Walnut: 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of Fertilizer for 10 liters of water at the rate of Zl per 1 m2. When the leaves (feather) reach a length of 12-15 cm, it is necessary to do preventive treatment against fungal diseases (downy mildew).

In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate or copper oxychloride and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap, spray on the leaves at the rate of 0.5 liters per 1 m2. by the most effective method against downy mildew is the treatment with the Allett fungicide, but they do not allow the treatment of onions used on the feather.

CLEANING AND STORING ONIONS The onion is ready for harvest when the formation of young leaves has stopped, their lodging has begun, the bulbs are fully formed and have acquired the color characteristic of the variety.

Onions are harvested from mid-August to the first decade of September. If you are late with harvesting, then after 8-10 days the growth of onions resumes, and such bulbs are unsuitable for storage. Cleaning should be done in dry weather.

Onions are dug up with a pitchfork and carefully pulled out of the soil by the leaves. The earth remaining on the bulbs is removed by hand, and not shaken off, since the bulbs rot during storage due to mechanical damage.

Then the onion is laid out in an open sunny place to dry for 12-15 days. After that, the leaves are cut off, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long. The cut onion is dried again at a higher temperature (30-35 ° C) for 5-6 days.

This drying will reduce the number of bulbs affected by neck rot. Onions can be braided if the leaves are not diseased. With this method of storage, the leaves do not need to be cut, but they should be dried well before braiding.

Onions can also be placed in baskets or boxes of 10-12 kg and stored at room temperature in a dry place at home.

Is it possible to plant onions in June?

Carom 1 week ago Tsvetrana 1 week ago

Onion sets intended for long-term storage should be planted in May. The best day is May 5, St. Luke's day. If a bow is needed for a green feather, then the timing does not matter.

For example, a batun sown in July will please excellent harvest greenery in autumn.

comment Cannon 1 week ago

Much here may depend on the region in which the landing will be made. If these are rather warm places, then onions can be planted even in June (but at the beginning of June), but if by the end of September you have cold weather, then the onions will not have time to ripen, so this must be taken into account.

If you want to have a young onion, then you can plant here almost at any time of the year - the onion grows quickly by the young. In winter, you can also plant, but in a greenhouse or on a balcony and an apartment in some kind of containers.

• It is best to plant onions on a turnip in May, but if your climate allows, then it is possible in early June. For young onions, planting time does not matter. In the cold season, you can grow in a greenhouse or apartment.

comment

Onion. Growing.

Onions have a sharp taste, a peculiar smell and have healing properties, as they contain special substances - phytoncides that kill pathogenic bacteria. As our grandfathers said: "Onions - from seven ailments."

It improves the taste of food, promotes its rapid digestion and assimilation. Grow onions everywhere.

To get a large onion-turnip, you need to spend a lot of time and effort. In the first year, seeds are sown, from which small (1 to 3 cm in diameter) bulbs grow, the so-called sets. In the second year, the sets are planted and large onion heads are harvested in the fall. turnips. In the third year, the resulting turnip is planted in the spring.

It gives flower-bearing shoots, in the inflorescences of which seeds ripen, the so-called nigella, which got its name for its black color. Growing onion sets from seed. Preparing seeds for sowing. 3 months before planting, the seeds are checked for germination.

Take 15-20 seeds and keep in a damp cloth for 2-3 weeks. Before sowing, to protect the seeds from fungal diseases, dip the seeds wrapped in cloth, first for 15 minutes in hot water (45-50 ° C), and then for 1 minute in cold water. After that, soak the seeds in warm water (22-26 ° C) for 24 hours. Then drain the water and keep them for 1-2 days at room temperature.

It is necessary to ensure that the fabric in which the seeds are wrapped is constantly wet. Seeds can be prepared for sowing in another way. The container is filled with water, oxygen is supplied under pressure and the seeds are lowered for 18-20 hours. Then the seeds are dried in air for 15-20 minutes until they flow and are immediately sown on a previously prepared bed.

Seeds are sown on April 20-25. All of the above in equally also applies to chives Onion care.

Preparing a bed for growing onions. A place for sowing is chosen open, sunny, dry. Onions are sown where cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, beans, hillocks used to grow, on loamy soils seasoned with organic and mineral fertilizers. Ridges are made low (12-15 cm), no more than 100 cm wide.

They dig and add 3-4 kg of manure humus or compost and 2-3 kg of peat per 1 m2. From mineral fertilizers, add 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and nitrophoska or nitroammophoska and a glass of wood ash.

The bed is again dug up to a shallow depth, mixing all the fertilizers with the top layer of soil. The prepared bed for growing onions is leveled, tamped, watered with solutions of copper sulphate at a temperature of at least 50 ° C (for 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon of copper sulphate or copper oxychloride ) at the rate of 2 liters per 1 m2 and cover with a film before sowing for 2-3 days. Sowing seeds.

Before sowing, the bed is marked: they retreat from the edge of 10 cm and make three grooves along with a distance of 5 cm from each other and a depth of 2 cm, then they retreat 14-15 cm and again make three grooves, etc. Seeds are sown in grooves after 1- 1.5 cm. After sowing, the soil in the garden is slightly compacted and carefully watered from a small watering can with water at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m2. cm or cover with material (lutrasil). The shelter retains soil moisture and accelerates the emergence of seedlings. When leaving the ground, onions look like a loop (cotyledon).

Some gardeners bury the seeds very deeply into the soil, as a result, not the cotyledons, but the roots, come to the surface. Such plants die. The same phenomenon can be on very dense clay soil.

If onions are often sown, then the seedlings must be thinned so that the distance between the seedlings is 1.5-2 cm. The loops (cotyledons) straighten after 12-16 days, then the first true tubular leaf appears. From the base of the first sheet comes the second, and so on. Onion set care.

How to care for onions? Care for onion sets consists of watering, weed control, pests and diseases. Onion sets are watered in May-June once a week, in hot, sunny weather - 2 times a week at the rate of 5-10 liters per 1 m2.

In July, watering is sharply reduced, as the onions are ripening. In hot weather, water once a week with a small dose so that the bulb does not wilt.

Watering is carried out carefully, from a small watering can by sprinkling so as not to break the feather. Usually onion sets are not loosened, but if the soil is compacted, then loosening in wide aisles is done to a depth of 2-3 cm. growing onions his crops must be clean, so you need to destroy the small weeds that have appeared, since when weeding large weeds, the bulbs can be moved and they will stop growing. Before weeding, the onion must be well watered.

If the growth of leaves is slow, you need feeding onions. In 10 liters of water, a glass of mushy mullein or bird droppings, a tablespoon of urea or crystals are diluted, stirred and watered at 3-4 liters per 1 m2.

Cleaning and storage of onions.Cultivation of onions is not all. Onions must be collected correctly and on time. A sign of onion ripening is lodging and yellowing of the leaves. Seeds are harvested from July 20 to August 10, depending on its ripeness.

Even if the leaves have not completely turned yellow, the onion must still be pulled out and spread out in a thin layer for 12-15 days to ripen and dry. The onions are dried in the sun, then the dried leaves are removed, and the heads are additionally dried for 2-3 days at a temperature of 30-35 °C near heating appliances or a Russian stove. Such thorough drying protects the onion from cervical rot and downy mildew. After all these operations, the onion sets are sorted.

Small bulbs 1.0-1.5 cm in size are best planted before winter in early October. Large sets, over 1.5 cm, fall asleep in boxes of 10-15 kg or in canvas bags of 15-20 kg.

Canvas bags are tied, placed in plastic bags and stored in a dark place at a temperature of 17-18 ° C. Once a month, the onions are examined to eliminate rotten, dried heads. into the arrow. Growing onion-turnip from sevka.

To obtain a large turnip, the best planting material is sevok (bulbs 1.5-2.5 cm in size). Preparing sevka for planting. Before planting, onion sets are sorted out, all dried, bare, diseased, damaged, cut, sprouted bulbs are removed, the remaining ones are sorted by size so that the seedlings are uniform.

First, large, then medium and small bulbs are planted in the garden. If for planting you take your onion sets, which were stored at a temperature of 18-22 ° C, then additional heating is not required. If you buy planting material, then 2-3 days before planting, be sure to warm the bulbs near the heaters at an air temperature of 30-40 ° C. You can carry out another treatment: before planting, pour the onion sets into a bucket, pour for 1-2 minutes hot water (65-70 ° C), and then lower for 1 minute in cold water.

If you do not, then the planted onion sets will go into the arrow. After warming up, the bulbs are soaked in a nutrient solution. A tablespoon of nitrophoska or nitroammophoska, ROST-1 or any complex fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water, mixed well and the onions are dipped in this solution in a fabric bag for 8-10 hours. Then the bag with onions, without washing, is dipped for 5-10 minutes for the prevention of fungal diseases in a solution of copper sulfate (for 10 liters of water - 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate).

The treated bulbs are rinsed with clean water and planted. Preparing the beds. When growing onions, a bed for onion sets is prepared in the fall.

All plant waste is removed, sprayed with a strong disinfectant solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons of copper sulfate, copper oxychloride or polycarbacin per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1-1.5 liters per 1 m2. Onions grow well in neutral soils.

Therefore, dolomite flour or chalk is added to acidic soil at the rate of 1 glass per 1 m2. Before frosts, the bed is additionally shed with water, and in winter it is a good idea to discard snow from the bed. All this is done for good freezing of the soil.

As a rule, on such a bed, onions are less damaged by diseases and pests. In the spring to the garden as a future feeding onions organic and mineral fertilizers are applied depending on the composition of the soil. The soil is loamy - 3-4 kg of humus, 4-5 kg ​​of peat, 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea or crystallin. Clay soil - 5-6 kg of humus, 5-6 kg of peat, 8-10 kg of coarse-grained river sand, 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea or crystals. Peat soil - 5-6 kg of humus or compost, 8-10 kg of coarse-grained river sand, 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea or crystals. Sandy soil - for 1 m2 add a bucket of humus or compost, a bucket of peat, 2 buckets of loamy or clay soil, 3 st. spoons of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea or a crystal. The bed is dug up to the depth of a bayonet shovel, leveled with a rake, slightly compacted and disinfected with a warm solution of copper sulfate (for 10 liters of water - 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate), at the rate of 1 liter per 1 m2. A prepared bed for 5-6 days, cover with a clean film for 1-2 days. Onion care.

To grow a good onion, it is necessary to withstand the timing of planting the seedlings. In the southern climatic zones, onion sets are planted in the third decade of April, in other areas - in the first decade of May.

It must be remembered that onion sets cannot be planted in unheated soil (below 12 ° C): it will go into the arrow. And it is also impossible to be late with planting, otherwise, due to lack of moisture and high temperature, the onion will develop slowly. Before planting the bulbs, the bed is marked: grooves are made to a depth of 4 cm and with a distance between them of 20-25 cm.

It is watered with water at room temperature (20 ° C) at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m2 from a watering can with a fine sieve. The bulbs are planted in grooves with a distance of 8-10 cm from each other and covered so that the soil layer above the shoulders of the bulbs is no more 2-2.5 cm, since with deeper planting, ripening will be delayed, and the bulb itself will change shape. With a shallow planting, the bulbs are exposed, and their growth stops, especially in hot, dry weather. Caring for turnips.

Shoots appear 5-6 days after planting. Turnip care consists of watering, weeding, loosening, feeding and processing. Bulb onions are demanding on watering, especially in the first 2.5 months (May, June and half of July).

In May, in dry hot weather, it is watered every week from 6 to 10 liters of water per 1 m2. In June - every 8-10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters per 1 m2, in the first half of July it is watered every 8-10 days at the rate of 8-10 liters per 1 m2.

If the second half of July is hot, then you can water it 1-2 times in 8-10 days at the rate of 5-6 liters per 1 m2. Water from a watering can with a small stream so as not to break the leaves.

3a 15-18 days before harvesting the onion, watering is completely stopped. Onions should not be watered with cold water (below 18 ° C) in order to avoid onion disease with downy mildew. Avoid weeds, they create high humidity and conditions for fungal diseases. Onions, grown in unweeded areas, has a thick, juicy neck that makes it difficult to store. Weeds are best removed in moist soil when they reach a height of 3-5 cm. Onion care.

Onion feeding During the growing season, 2-3 onion top dressings can be done. The first onion top dressing is recommended when its leaves grow weakly and are light in color. In 10 liters of water, a glass of mushy mullein or bird droppings and a tablespoon of urea or crystal are diluted, pouring 2-3 liters per 1 m2. The second top dressing of onions should be carried out 12-15 days after the first.

In 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska, pouring over 5 full 1 m2. The third top dressing of onions is given when an onion with a diameter of a walnut is formed.

In 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, pouring 5 liters per 1 m2. When the onion leaves (feather) reach a length of 12-15 cm, it is necessary to make preventive treatment against fungal diseases (downy mildew). In 10 liters of water, a teaspoon of copper is diluted. vitriol or copper oxychloride and a tablespoon of liquid soap, sprayed on the leaves at the rate of 0.5 l per 1 m2. Cleaning and storage of onions.

The onion is ready for harvest when the formation of young leaves has stopped, lodging has begun, the bulbs are fully formed and have acquired the color characteristic of this variety. Onions are harvested from mid-August to the first decade of September. If you are late with harvesting, then after 8-10 days, onion growth resumes, and such bulbs are unsuitable for storage. Growing onions should be harvested in dry weather.

Onions are dug up with a pitchfork and carefully pulled out of the soil by the leaves. The earth remaining on the bulbs is removed by hand, and not shaken off, since the bulbs rot from mechanical damage.

Then the onion is laid out in an open sunny place to dry for 12-15 days. After that, the leaves are cut, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long. The cut onion is dried again at a higher temperature (30-35 ° C) for 5-6 days.

This drying will reduce the number of bulbs affected by neck rot. It is advisable to powder the onion with chalk. Onions can be braided, and also laid out in baskets or boxes of 10-12 kg and stored at room temperature in a dry place.

Came first summer month. It happens that by this time some gardeners despair of getting a crop this season: a person did not have time to plant all the desired ones In vain! The time of many vegetables is not over yet. And after June 10, when the threat of repeated frosts is guaranteed to pass, you can act boldly. What can be planted in June in our gardens? The main types are listed below

1. Cabbage of mid-season varieties, cauliflower, kohlrabi

First you need to prepare the wells, add double superphosphate (10 g) or vegetable (1 tbsp) to each. Seedlings are planted in these holes.

2. Potato

Continuation of the landing campaign. Particular attention - potatoes "for seeds". What is needed here is not the quality of tubers (large sizes), but their quantity (the more the better). This is achieved by planting whole large tubers, they do not need to be cut. The example of potatoes clearly shows: the main thing is not what can be planted in June, but how.

In the first decade of the month, late 25-30-day-old seedlings are planted under the film. In the second decade, the seeds of the future autumn harvest are sown in open ground. It remains to wait only 55-90 days.

Seedlings are planted after June 10 in open ground with pre-prepared holes or grooves. Superphosphate is added to the tomato plot at the rate of 20 g per 1 m. To facilitate plant care and feeding, the row spacing should be at least 70 cm. If tomato seedlings are low or early varieties, they must be planted directly. If she is stretched out or tall varieties- obliquely, orienting the tip towards the south. Sluggish seedlings are stepsoned before planting, and the roots are soaked in Kornevin.

5. Eggplant, pepper

Seedlings are planted after June 10 in open ground directly, deepened by no more than 1 cm.

6. Carrot

The bed for it is prepared in the same way as in April. Dig to the depth Then add the mixture: aged peat, sand, compost (3:2:2); in addition, two glasses of lime and ash, nitrophoska (150 g), superphosphate (40 g), (30 g). Mix everything, form beds and sow carrots in them in the first decade. Large and sweet, it will ripen by mid-October, after which it can be sent for long-term winter storage.

7. Dill, parsley

From what you can plant in June, you should pay attention to these plants. It is only necessary to collect radishes and lettuce in time (June is the time for their harvesting), and sow greens in the vacant place. In late autumn, it can be served at the table or prepared for the winter.

8. Radish

It can still be sown until June 15 - and subsequently get a second crop this year. It should be noted that its own radish can be present on the table all the time, from spring to autumn. To do this, it must be sown every three weeks. However, you will first have to select varieties according to the length of the day.

What can be planted in June without being late? Gardeners also recommend planting peas, zucchini, onions, shallots, table beets, beans.

Let's not forget about flower growers. What flowers to plant in June? First of all, dahlias and seedlings of annuals - aster, marigolds, salvia. Also, until June 10, you can catch the sowing of alyssum, calendula, cosmea, matthiola, nasturtium. Houseplants- begonias, pelargonium, fuchsia, chlorophytum - can also be identified in a flower garden. Perennials such as aquilegia, campanula, lupine, daisy, primrose are sown on ridges with the expectation of flowering next year.

So, never stop, even if it seems to you that all the deadlines have already passed. Everything that can be planted in June should be planted!

It is believed that it is possible to plant onion sets almost immediately after the snow melted, and even in late April - early May for sure. But if you plant onions on a turnip, you should wait a bit until the possible May frosts have passed: if the onion sets were stored incorrectly or fell under frost, it can shoot, and you will have fewer bulbs. Everything about planting onions in the spring, the fight against onion fly and other onion pests and diseases - in the book by Galina Kizima "Dream Dacha".

Onions come from Asia, hence the requirements for growing conditions: dry air and soil at the time of bulb ripening, good sun exposure all day long, as it is one of the most light-loving crops, and fertile soils with a slightly alkaline reaction (pH 7). In addition, you also need to know that onions are a potassium-loving culture.

In the Northwest, where I garden, the conditions for growing onions are not suitable. At the time of the most intensive growth in June, it is usually dry and hot weather, and the onion begins to lay the turnip prematurely, and since the feather is still not enough, then a small turnip is formed. Neither watering nor loosening will help stop this process.

In July, when the bulb should develop, it starts to cool and rain, which leads to the re-growth of greens and bulbs. In this case, the bulb usually does not ripen, its neck, as a rule, does not close (thick neck) - such an onion is not stored, it should be used for autumn preparations for the winter.

Acidic soils, especially clay, onions do not tolerate. Fresh manure, excessive doses of mineral nitrogen (for example, urea), too much humidity in the air and soil are harmful to him. We have all these charms in the North-West, and even in addition to the lack of solar energy.

Growing onions

From a small set (1 cm in diameter), medium-sized bulbs grow. Usually flower arrows are not laid in the set, and such an onion does not bloom.

Bulbs larger than a set (more than 2.1 cm in diameter) are called a sample. It has flower arrows, and it can throw them away if stored improperly or when it freezes.

Small sets can be planted before winter, covering the plantings with an old double lutrasil. Personally, I drop it off before returning to the city, usually in early October. It winters well, and already at the very end of April we begin to pull it out of the soil for food. At the time of flowering of the coltsfoot, we plant the next batch and plant the sevok again at the end of June.

We usually plant sevok at a distance of 5 cm from each other, then we pull it out for food through one plant, so that a distance of about 10 cm remains between the bulbs.

Before planting, make furrows 3–4 cm deep, fill them with sand 2–3 cm high, “salt” the furrows with AVA fertilizer powder or put one granule of this fertilizer under each bulb, spread the bulbs and cover them with a mixture of sand and soil.

When applying fertilizer "AVA" no top dressing or watering of the seedlings is required, except for watering in very long dry weather. Watering the onions over the leaves is not recommended. Watering should be done under the root and only in the initial period of growth in dry weather, and if it rains, then a tunnel shelter should be placed over the plantings.

If, during storage or planting, the onion came under frost, then it will shoot. Frozen onions necessarily give a flower arrow, and no matter how much you pluck it, it will appear again and again. Such a bow does not lay bulbs at all. It will have to be used all on a pen.

How to feed onions

Why do the tips of the leaves turn white on onions and garlic?

There may be several reasons for this phenomenon.

• acidic soil, it is urgent to deoxidize it. To do this, take 3 tablespoons of calcium nitrate, dilute in 10 liters of water and pour at least 1 cup under each plant. If you do not have calcium nitrate, use lime - 1 cup per 10 liters of water.
• Bow is experiencing lack of nitrogen. In this case, the leaves not only have white tips, but the leaves themselves have a slightly yellowish or light green color. The fastest top dressing is spraying the leaves in the evening with ammonia (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) or fertilizing the soil with calcium nitrate (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). You can feed with urea - 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water, pour from a watering can directly over the foliage.

• When only the tips of the leaves turn white, the plant experiences copper deficiency. Most often this happens on peat soils or when using peat to create soil. It is necessary to water the soil under the plants with a solution of "HOM" (copper oxychloride), dissolving 1 teaspoon of the drug in 5 liters of water (0.1% solution). You can also use "Oksihom", "Polyhom", blue vitriol or Bordeaux mixture. But after copper spraying, greens cannot be eaten for 3 weeks, that is, this technique is not suitable for growing green onions.
• This may happen when lack of potassium. At the same time, the sheet is slightly twisted. This is especially evident on the leaves of garlic. In this case, you need to make potassium top dressing. Onions and garlic tolerate chlorine quite well, so potassium chloride or any other fertilizer containing potassium (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) can be used. As mentioned above, 1 cup of top dressing per plant is required.

Sometimes it is recommended to use potassium permanganate as a potash fertilizer. But you should know that this drug acidifies the soil very much, in addition, manganese kills all living things, including harmful and beneficial microorganisms in the soil. Therefore, it can only be used in the form of a slightly pink solution on the leaves. This drug contains little potassium, and a lot of manganese.

Try to take your time and add top dressing under the plant, and not pour on top of the leaves from a watering can. All top dressing and watering, of course, should be done in the evening, while if the weather is dry, then before pouring top dressing, you first need to water the plants.

If the onion came under frost, it is clearly visible that the entire stem, along with the leaves, has taken on a light shade. The plant will be helped by feeding with potassium nitrate (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). You can use urea in the same proportion. But urea can be used only if the frost has passed.

• If the lightening of the whole plant and the whitening of the tips of the leaves occurred after the spring frosts had passed, the reason is not freezing, but that the larva damaged the bulb onion fly. Vegetable flies fly for the first time in the spring during cherry blossoms, the second time in the summer, simultaneously with the flight of the white butterfly (approximately in mid-July). The easiest way to protect onion plantings from flies (garlic does not damage a fly) is to cover them with a spunbond or other nonwoven fabric during the flight of pests. During the second flight, it is necessary to rake the soil from the bulbs and water the plantings with a solution of table salt. In a dry summer, this will not be necessary, since the fly larva, deposited on the soil near the bulb, dries up and dies. Flies are dangerous in wet summers.

Diseases and pests of onions

What other onion pests are there?

Secretive Trunk- the beetle makes an incision in the feather and lays a larva inside the leaf. It eats away the flesh of the leaf, and this is clearly visible, in addition, the "seams" that appeared at the site of the cuts of the leaves are also visible.

Since the pest is inside the leaf, all contact, external preparations are not suitable. We need systemic drugs that are absorbed by the leaf. The safest of them are Fitoverm and Iskra-bio. 48 hours after treatment with any of them, onions can be eaten. It takes about 3-4 hours for the drug to be absorbed, therefore, after spraying, there should be no rain during this time. If it still rains, then the treated plantings must be covered with a film.

Do onions get powdery mildew?

The most common onion disease is downy mildew, which appears as a grayish coating on the leaves. Then appear rust spots that are rotting. Spraying with biopreparations "Fitosporin" or "Fito-plus" helps well. After spraying, onions can be eaten after two days.

Preparations containing copper (copper sulfate, copper oxychloride or Bordeaux mixture) also help well, but after spraying them, onions should not be eaten for three weeks. However, you can use the biological product "Zircon", after spraying the onion can be eaten after 48 hours.

There are some rusty stripes on the leaves of the onion, what is it?

Rust onions fall ill mainly in the southern regions. The disease appears as yellow streaks on the leaves. The same drugs help as against powdery mildew.

What is neck rot?

This is a fairly common disease of onions, usually affects the bulbs already during storage. The causative agent of the disease penetrates into the not closed "thick" neck of the bulb. Most often this happens in rainy summers. Such a bow cannot be stored, because it will rot anyway, so it must be used immediately after harvesting for winter harvesting.

When storing the onion, black strokes were found between the onion plates. What could it be?

This disease excites the fungus. The spores of the fungus are stored between onion scales. If you stripped the onion naked before storing it, then almost all pathogens of onion fungal diseases remained among the discarded scales.

Why does the bottom of the bulb rot?

Bottom rot in onions and garlic is most often manifested in southern regions. Usually the disease is provoked by an onion fly that has damaged the bulb. The bulb softens and rots during storage. Bulbs must be stripped naked before storage. If there were patients among them, spray it with "Fitosporin" before drying.

If at cleaning If the onion grown on a turnip is rainy, then the bulbs must be washed after digging, immediately cleaned of husks and feathers, cut off the roots. Lay out to dry in a dry, ventilated area in one row.

After 2-3 weeks, the bare bulbs will be dressed in a new golden "shirt" in just one layer. Such a bow is well stored simply in a box on kitchen cabinet. It is clean, without any excess husk. There are no pests or diseases on such bulbs without husks.

In addition, bulbs with a thick, not closed neck are very clearly visible. Naturally, they must be discarded or immediately used for food and preparations.

Author Galina Kizima Enthusiast gardener with 50 years of experience, author of original methods

Comment on the article "When to plant onions on a turnip? So that onion sets do not shoot"

So that the onion sets do not shoot. How to feed onions when planting in the spring? Fighting onion fly.

Onion sets from OBI. This year I tried to plant a little before winter along with garlic, I don’t know what will happen, but I’ll also plant it in early spring, we plant sevok on the turnip on May 9, not earlier, in warm ground, but we have a northeast, far away, to us spring comes later...

They planted onion sets, a little remained, and the husband stuck it around the perimeter of the garden with garlic. Two days later, on this bed, he lay neat. Didn't find what you were looking for? See other discussions on the topic "what kind of animal digs onions out of the ground and stacks them in heaps"

question: onion sets. I read articles about planting and growing onions, everywhere they write that when sorting before planting, sprouted onions are thrown away along with rotten ones ...

Does anyone have an extra onion set? On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. onion sets red baron, centurion, shallot. production Holland. remnants in the warehouse of 10 bags packing of 25 kg price of 50 rubles kg Real Estate Shops and sales Equipment I will give away Exchange...

question: onion sets. I read articles about planting and growing onions, everywhere they write that when sorting before planting, the sprouted onions are thrown away. Plant the entire set, only do not mix high-quality sets with sprouted. Popular discussions in 2012.

Family bow - for planting. I offer planting material for family onions 0.5 - 50 Growing carrots We must try to plant carrots before winter. For interest. Onion sets from OBI. This year I tried to plant a little before winter along with garlic, not ...

They planted onion sets, a little remained, and the husband stuck it around the perimeter of the garden with garlic. Two days later, on this bed, he lay neat Onions - does anyone have an extra set ?. On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and country plots: purchase, improvement, planting ...

That is, carrots, onions and beets can already be planted? From those terrible Soviet and early post-Soviet times, when I planted and harvested potatoes in my garden, boiled, I planted onions on greens, and I’m thinking of planting perennial flowers - aquilegia and lupine. Strawberry saga part 1.

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How to plant onions? On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs If you already buy onion sets in the store, then also in late April-early May I plant with my family in WARM heated beds.

In general, I'm asking for advice here. I have never had a dacha, but this summer we rented a dacha. I would like to plant onions, herbs, radishes and other little things there. What do you need to buy? If you need green onions, then buy onions? What sort of? Maybe something should be taken in seedlings?

Where did all the onion sets go? On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: buying, landscaping, planting trees and I would be grateful for the addresses, maybe someone bought by mail, I bought onions for planting in Can you tell me where to buy garlic for winter planting?

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the question is the amount of planted vegetables. We plant onions - a sevka kilogram and garlic the same amount. where to buy garlic? for landing. not Chinese white, but ours, good. otherwise I bought onion - sevka in the spring at Belaya Dacha, but I don’t remember in OBI or in the world of hobbies ...

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Does anyone have an extra onion set? On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Summer cottage and summer cottage plots: purchase, improvement, planting trees When to plant onions - sets? We decided to buy sevok this year. Diameter 1.5-3 cm. You can plant in the fall - before winter for early germination in the spring.

They planted onion sets, a little remained, and the husband stuck it around the perimeter of the garden with garlic. Two days later, on this bed, he lay in neat heaps. the husband stuck it In the garden where the onion grows by itself, no one digs it up and does not put it in piles. What could it be?