Growing strawberries from seeds in peat tablets. Growing seedlings of garden strawberries from seeds in peat tablets. Features of sowing seeds of garden strawberries for seedlings step by step

Seedlings of strawberries and strawberries at home

Photos used: Yulia Astanovitskaya, Bonnier Publications LLC / Iosif Kaurov
sowing strawberries in peat tablets, seedlings before planting

Seeds of large-fruited strawberry hybrids are expensive. In addition, the package contains from 3 to 10 small seeds. They are easy to lose in seed boxes and bowls, so it is better to sow the seeds of such strawberries in peat tablets. The method is also convenient because at the first stage it is not necessary to sift and steam the soil mixture and dive strawberry seedlings.

Strawberries - to sow seeds or not?

Do not think that growing strawberries from seeds is an unreliable and very time-consuming business. It's useful and fun!

Firstly, in one season you can get a lot of bushes of a new variety. Moreover, most varieties of alpine (small-fruited) strawberries do not give a mustache, but after 3-4 years they require rejuvenation.

Secondly, in this way you can get new varieties of strawberries. And now they are on sale a large number of, including large-fruited remontant varieties.

Large-fruited garden strawberries - "strawberries" - and small-fruited alpine strawberries are sown in the same way.

Dates of sowing strawberries for seedlings

At home, strawberries are sown for seedlings in late February-early March. In more early dates Strawberries are sown in nurseries when it is necessary to put up ready-made seedlings for sale at the beginning of the season. If there is no such goal, there is no need to rush. In the absence of additional illumination, start sowing in the first decade of March.

Preparation of strawberry seeds for sowing - soaking and stratification

Spread strawberry seeds between two cotton pads or pieces of clean cloth folded in 2-3 layers. Place them in a microwave container or other container, moisten, close the lid, having previously made several holes in it for ventilation. If you have multiple varieties, label them. Hold them for 2-3 days at a temperature of +15...+18°C, then put the soaked strawberry seeds in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

Some gardeners advise putting ready-made crops in the refrigerator. But it is much more convenient to stratify in a container: it takes less space. After 2 weeks, place the container in a warm (+18...+20°C) bright place. Check the seeds every 2-3 days so you don't miss the moment of germination.

growing seedlings of strawberries from seed peat tablets, seed soaking

When the strawberry seeds hatch, it's time to sow. Put the peat tablets in a container, fill them with water. Wait until they turn from pills into "columns". Add water until it is no longer absorbed by the tablets. Drain excess.

Spread the "pricks" into the recesses in the tablets. It is very convenient to do this with a toothpick. It is not necessary to cover the seeds with earth: strawberries sprout better in the light. Seeds are sprinkled only when sown in the summer in the garden, so that they do not die from overdrying.

growing strawberry seedlings from seeds in peat tablets, sowing seeds

It is important that the hatched seeds do not dry out. To do this, cover the container with a transparent lid or place it in a greenhouse. Put strawberry crops in a bright place with a temperature not higher than + 20 ° C.

Remove condensation from the lid daily, ventilate to prevent mold from forming. If you still notice the first signs of mold, carefully remove it with a toothpick and drop a solution of Maxim or another fungicide onto this place.

growing strawberry seedlings from seeds in peat tablets, maintaining air humidity

After the appearance of the first true leaves, the shelter can be removed. Sprinkle the strawberry roots (if they are bare) to the root collar with a small amount of earth. If you notice that the peat "pillars" are settling, add water to the container until completely absorbed, and drain the excess.

How to feed strawberries

Once every 2 weeks, add water to combine with top dressing. It is better to feed strawberry seedlings with humates or a solution mineral fertilizers for seedlings.

growing strawberry seedlings from seeds in peat tablets, seedlings

If the weather allows, from the end of April to the beginning of March, you can start hardening on the balcony or glazed veranda. At first, cover seedlings from direct sun rays and wind. A short-term night temperature decrease to +3...+5°C is even useful.

growing strawberry seedlings from seeds in peat tablets, seedlings ready for planting

Planting strawberries in the ground

You can plant seedlings in the ground after June 10. In well-developed seedlings, the roots are visible on the surface of the peat tablet.

Considering that remontant varieties of strawberries bear fruit all season, the soil for it should be loose and fertile. It is advisable to add humus or well-rotted compost. Its amount depends on the initial state of the beds. If it is cultivated garden land, 0.5 buckets of humus and peat per 1 sq.m. are enough. If the soil is clay, double the amount of humus and peat and add 0.5 buckets of sand. The application rate of complete mineral fertilizer is 30-40 grams per 1 sq.m. Carefully dig a shovel onto the bayonet and level it so that there is no slope.

growing strawberry seedlings from seeds in peat tablets, fertilizer and soil preparation

To make the rows even, pull the planting cord over the bed. Mark the row with a shallow groove.

cultivation of strawberry seedlings from seeds in peat tablets, preparation of seats

Make holes at a distance of 30 cm. Install peat tablets with seedlings.

growing strawberry seedlings from seeds in peat tablets, seedling planting scheme

Gently fill the remaining space in the hole with loose earth so that the growing point of the strawberry (heart) is at ground level. Seal.

growing strawberry seedlings from seeds in peat tablets, planting strawberry seedlings

Carefully, so as not to blur the ground around the bush, water the strawberry seedlings.

growing strawberry seedlings from seeds in peat tablets, watering

And one more tip: it is convenient to grow small-fruited strawberries on narrow beds no more than 2 rows. The distance between the rows is 35-40 centimeters. Can be grown in 1 row along the edge of other crops or fruit bushes, retreating from them by 50-60 cm.

Large quantity rows makes it difficult to regularly pick berries and process plants after the next wave of fruiting.

Growing strawberries from seeds in peat tablets

Seedlings of strawberries and strawberries at home

Photos used: Julia Astanovitskaya , LLC "Bonnier Publications" / Iosif Kaurov

Seeds of large-fruited strawberry hybrids are expensive. In addition, the package contains from 3 to 10 small seeds. They are easy to lose in seed boxes and bowls, so it is better to sow the seeds of such strawberries in peat tablets. The method is also convenient because at the first stage it is not necessary to sift and steam the soil mixture and dive strawberry seedlings.

Strawberries - to sow seeds or not?

Spread strawberry seeds between two cotton pads or pieces of clean cloth folded in 2-3 layers. Place them in a microwave container or other container, moisten, close the lid, having previously made several holes in it for ventilation. If you have multiple varieties, label them. Hold them for 2-3 days at a temperature of +15...+18°C, then put the soaked strawberry seeds in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

Some gardeners advise putting ready-made crops in the refrigerator. But much more convenient: it takes up less space. After 2 weeks, place the container in a warm (+18...+20°C) bright place. Check the seeds every 2-3 days so you don't miss the moment of germination.

When the strawberry seeds hatch, it's time to sow. Put the peat tablets in a container, fill them with water. Wait until they turn from pills into "columns". Add water until it is no longer absorbed by the tablets. Drain excess.

Spread the "pricks" into the recesses in the tablets. It is very convenient to do this with a toothpick. It is not necessary to cover the seeds with earth: strawberries sprout better in the light. Seeds are sprinkled only when so that they do not die from overdrying.

It is important that the hatched seeds do not dry out. To do this, cover the container with a transparent lid or place it in a greenhouse. Put strawberry crops in a bright place with a temperature not higher than + 20 ° C.

Remove condensation from the lid daily, ventilate to prevent mold from forming. If you still notice the first signs of mold, carefully remove it with a toothpick and drop a solution of the drug onto this place. Maxim or .

After the appearance of the first true leaves, the shelter can be removed. Sprinkle the strawberry roots (if they are bare) to the root collar with a small amount of earth. If you notice that the peat "pillars" are settling, add water to the container until completely absorbed, and drain the excess.

How to feed strawberries

Once every 2 weeks, add water to combine with top dressing. It is better to feed strawberry seedlings or with a solution.

If the weather allows, from the end of April to the beginning of March, you can start hardening on the balcony or glazed veranda. At first, cover the seedlings from direct sunlight and wind. A short-term night temperature decrease to +3...+5°C is even useful.

Planting strawberries in the ground

You can plant seedlings in the ground after June 10. In well-developed seedlings, the roots are visible on the surface of the peat tablet.

Considering that remontant varieties of strawberries bear fruit all season, the soil for it should be loose and fertile. It is advisable to add humus or well-rotted compost. Its amount depends on the initial state of the beds. If it is cultivated garden land, 0.5 buckets of humus and 1 sq.m. If the soil is clay, double the amount of humus and peat and add 0.5 buckets of sand. The application rate of the full -30-40 grams per 1 sq.m. Carefully dig a shovel onto the bayonet and level it so that there is no slope.

To make the rows even, pull the planting cord over the bed. Mark the row with a shallow groove.

Make holes at a distance of 30 cm. Install peat tablets with seedlings.

Gently fill the remaining space in the hole with loose earth so that the growing point of the strawberry (heart) is at ground level. Seal.

Carefully, so as not to blur the ground around the bush, water the strawberry seedlings.

And one more tip: it is convenient to grow small-fruited strawberries in narrow beds in no more than 2 rows. The distance between the rows is 35-40 centimeters. It can be grown in 1 row along the edge of other crops or fruit bushes, retreating from them by 50-60 cm.

A larger number of rows makes it difficult to regularly pick berries and process plants after the next wave of fruiting.

Seeds of large-fruited strawberry hybrids are expensive. In addition, the package contains from 3 to 10 small seeds. They are easy to lose in seed boxes and bowls, so it is better to sow the seeds of such strawberries in peat tablets. The method is also convenient because at the first stage it is not necessary to sift and steam the soil mixture and dive strawberry seedlings.

Strawberries - to sow seeds or not?

Spread strawberry seeds between two cotton pads or pieces of clean cloth folded in 2-3 layers. Place them in a microwave container or other container, moisten, close the lid, having previously made several holes in it for ventilation. If you have multiple varieties, label them. Hold them for 2-3 days at a temperature of +15...+18°C, then put the soaked strawberry seeds in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

Some gardeners advise putting ready-made crops in the refrigerator. But much more convenient: it takes up less space. After 2 weeks, place the container in a warm (+18...+20°C) bright place. Check the seeds every 2-3 days so you don't miss the moment of germination.

When the strawberry seeds hatch, it's time to sow. Put the peat tablets in a container, fill them with water. Wait until they turn from pills into "columns". Add water until it is no longer absorbed by the tablets. Drain excess.

Spread the "pricks" into the recesses in the tablets. It is very convenient to do this with a toothpick. It is not necessary to cover the seeds with earth: strawberries sprout better in the light. Seeds are sprinkled only when so that they do not die from overdrying.

It is important that the hatched seeds do not dry out. To do this, cover the container with a transparent lid or place it in a greenhouse. Put strawberry crops in a bright place with a temperature not higher than + 20 ° C.

Remove condensation from the lid daily, ventilate to prevent mold from forming. If you still notice the first signs of mold, carefully remove it with a toothpick and drop a solution of the drug onto this place. Maxim or .

After the appearance of the first true leaves, the shelter can be removed. Sprinkle the strawberry roots (if they are bare) to the root collar with a small amount of earth. If you notice that the peat "pillars" are settling, add water to the container until completely absorbed, and drain the excess.

How to feed strawberries

Once every 2 weeks, add water to combine with top dressing. It is better to feed strawberry seedlings or with a solution.

If the weather allows, from the end of April to the beginning of March, you can start hardening on the balcony or glazed veranda. At first, cover the seedlings from direct sunlight and wind. A short-term night temperature decrease to +3...+5°C is even useful.

Planting strawberries in the ground

You can plant seedlings in the ground after June 10. In well-developed seedlings, the roots are visible on the surface of the peat tablet.

Considering that remontant varieties of strawberries bear fruit all season, the soil for it should be loose and fertile. It is advisable to add humus or well-rotted compost. Its amount depends on the initial state of the beds. If it is cultivated garden land, 0.5 buckets of humus and 1 sq.m. If the soil is clay, double the amount of humus and peat and add 0.5 buckets of sand. The application rate of the full -30-40 grams per 1 sq.m. Carefully dig a shovel onto the bayonet and level it so that there is no slope.

To make the rows even, pull the planting cord over the bed. Mark the row with a shallow groove.

Make holes at a distance of 30 cm. Install peat tablets with seedlings.

Gently fill the remaining space in the hole with loose earth so that the growing point of the strawberry (heart) is at ground level. Seal.

Carefully, so as not to blur the ground around the bush, water the strawberry seedlings.

And one more tip: it is convenient to grow small-fruited strawberries in narrow beds in no more than 2 rows. The distance between the rows is 35-40 centimeters. It can be grown in 1 row along the edge of other crops or fruit bushes, retreating from them by 50-60 cm.

A larger number of rows makes it difficult to regularly pick berries and process plants after the next wave of fruiting.

Until recently, many gardeners preferred to propagate strawberries by dividing a bush or by a mustache. Growing from seeds was considered complex process, which did not guarantee a good result at all. The appearance of peat tablets changed the situation and made it possible to grow fragrant berries conveniently and without problems. seed way.

Growing strawberries from seeds: pros and cons

Reproduction of strawberries by seeds is gaining more and more popularity. Online stores and specialized centers for gardeners offer big choice seeds different varieties garden berry. In addition, growing strawberries from seeds has a number of undeniable advantages:

  • unlimited choice of seeds and the opportunity to acquire a rare or elite variety of strawberries;
  • the ability to grow a healthy berry, since genetic diseases of plants are inherited only when propagating by mustache or dividing the bush;
  • significant savings - seeds are much cheaper than seedlings.

Both remontant (small-fruited) strawberries and large-fruited ones, often called strawberries, are propagated by seeds. The growing conditions for both species are similar. It is only worth noting that the seeds of small-fruited strawberries are cheaper in cost and have better germination.

The main disadvantages of growing garden strawberries From seeds, the complexity and laboriousness of the process, as well as the long germination of seeds, are considered. However, peat tablets come to the aid of a diligent gardener, which greatly simplifies the process of growing seedlings.

It is important to know that growing strawberries from seeds in peat tablets involves some difficulties. Seeds of large-fruited varieties germinate much more slowly and require longer preparation for sowing.

Peat tablets are the perfect choice

Increasingly, when choosing a substrate for sowing seeds, gardeners prefer peat tablets. Especially in the case of cultivating such capricious plant like a strawberry. Growing strawberries from seeds in peat tablets made it much easier for the gardener and has a number of advantages:

  • peat tablets contain the whole set nutrients necessary for seed germination and their further development;
  • there is no need to pick seedlings, therefore root system plants are not damaged during transplantation;
  • the best conditions for obtaining strong and strong seedlings;
  • peat tablets are characterized by high water and air permeability, which ensures the free development of the root system for plants;
  • the use of tablets saves time, labor and effort of the gardener.

Peat tablets are made by pressing. They consist of fertile peat with the addition of mineral fertilizers and growth stimulants that contribute to the healthy development of plants.

Several sizes of peat tablets are available, the diameter of which varies from 24 to 44 mm. For growing strawberries, it is recommended to choose tablets with a diameter of 24 to 33 mm.


Strawberries from seeds: growing in peat tablets

The right choice of seeds

To grow strong, healthy and high-yielding strawberries, you need to choose the right seeds. There are three seed options to choose from:

  1. Small-fruited or alpine remontant strawberries - bears fruit from June until the first autumn frosts.
  2. Large-fruited strawberry - gives strong plants with large fruits but its seeds are quite expensive.
  3. personally harvested seeds- there is no guarantee that "children" will inherit parental traits.

When choosing seeds, it is desirable to give preference to varieties from well-known manufacturers. When buying seeds, you should pay special attention to their suitability in order to be sure of their freshness and germination. Gardening shops offer a huge selection of strawberry varieties for every taste. The following varieties of fragrant berries have proven themselves very well:

  • Alexandria is one of the best varieties remontant alpine strawberries. This is a fruitful, unpretentious and responsive berry that does not form a mustache;
  • Ali Baba is another hairless alpine strawberry variety. This variety is characterized by high yield, as well as resistance to drought, diseases and pests;
  • Lesnaya skazka is a high-yielding small-fruited variety with compact bushes with continuous flowering and fruiting;
  • Ruyana is an early ripe beardless variety. Its first fruits ripen as much as two weeks faster than other varieties. It has high yield and bears fruit all season;
  • Baron Solemacher - an early small-fruited variety, continuously fruiting and having sweet berries without sourness;
  • Rügen is a small-fruited dessert variety with early flowering and berries with a unique aroma and taste;
  • Big Boy is a variety from American breeders. It grows quickly, multiplies well and gives a high yield in the second year;
  • Rusanovka is a super early variety that is very easy to grow;
  • Olvia is an ultra-early variety, characterized by unpretentiousness and good yield;
  • White Swan- remontant beardless variety from Japanese breeders. It bears fruit with white fragrant berries.

And this is only a small part of the many varieties of strawberries that today's horticultural market offers. Everyone can choose strawberries for themselves according to taste, size, color and the presence or absence of whiskers.

Sowing dates

The recommended time for sowing strawberries is the end of February or the beginning of March. You can plant a berry earlier, but then you will need additional illumination. Strawberries planted in January will need at least 12 hours daylight hours. perfect time for landing - the first decade of March, when daylight hours are already quite long.

Preparing seeds for sowing

As we already know, the seeds of large-fruited strawberry varieties sprout very slowly. Therefore, they need mandatory soaking and stratification. This procedure will not interfere with the seeds of small-fruited varieties. It will significantly speed up their germination.

We prepare strawberry seeds for sowing as follows:

  1. We spread the seeds on a damp cloth folded in three layers, and cover them with another damp cloth.
  2. We place the seeds soaked in this way in a container with ventilation holes made in it.
  3. We stand the seeds at a temperature of 15 to 18 ° C for 3 days, and then place the container with the seeds on the vegetable shelf in the refrigerator for two weeks. Do not forget to ventilate the seeds and provide them with constant, but moderate humidity.
  4. After two weeks, we expose the container to a bright and warm place with a temperature of 18 to 20 ° C.
  5. We check the seeds every two or three days and wait for them to hatch.

Sowing seeds in peat tablets

The hatched seeds are a signal for sowing strawberries in peat tablets and a guarantee that they are viable and can be planted with confidence in the result. We sow the germinated seeds into tablets and grow the first shoots, adhering to the following algorithm of actions:

  1. We place the peat tablets in a container, fill them with water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate and wait for them to turn into swollen "columns". We drain the remaining water, and squeeze the tablets a little to remove from them. excess moisture.
  2. We lay out the seeds in the recesses of the tablets and do not sprinkle with anything - strawberry seeds sprout in the light. It is convenient to sow seeds with a toothpick.
  3. We cover the container with seeds with a lid or film, thus creating a "greenhouse" for future plants.
  4. We place the crops in a bright place, maintaining the temperature no higher than 20 ° C. We regularly ventilate the "greenhouse", remove the condensate and maintain the constant humidity of the tablets, adding water to the pan as necessary. Do not allow the tablets to dry out, which, shrinking, can seriously damage the roots of the seedlings.
  5. We expect the first shoots in 10 days. Full germination should be expected after 20 or 30 days.

An important point - due to excessive moisture, mold may appear on the tablets. Do not despair! It is necessary to carefully remove the mold with cotton wool soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate, and treat the tablet with an antifungal agent, for example, Maxim or Previkur.


strawberry seedling care

After the appearance of true leaves, the "greenhouse" can be opened. If the roots of the seedlings are bare, you need to sprinkle them with earth to the root collar. As the seedlings grow, it is recommended to feed them twice a month with a solution of mineral fertilizer for seedlings.

When 3 or 4 true leaves appear on the seedlings, you need to transfer them along with the tablets to individual containers with special soil for seedlings. Quite fit plastic cups with holes in the bottom. Elongated seedlings need to be buried in the ground to the cotyledons. When transshipping, it is important not to cover the growing point of the cotyledon leaves with earth.

From the end of April, it is necessary to carry out the procedure for hardening seedlings. It should be taken out for a while to a glazed veranda or balcony, protecting the seedlings from drafts and the active sun. The hardening temperature should not fall below 0 °C. With coming warm days seedlings can be left on the balcony all night.

Planting strawberry seedlings in open ground

It is recommended to plant seedlings on the site in early June, when the night temperature no longer drops below 5 ° C. Seedlings should have 6 true leaves by this time. Before planting in the garden, the seedlings should be placed in shady area garden to get used to the sun and the open air.

The soil for strawberries should be loose and fertile. It is recommended to add compost or humus to it. For garden soil half a bucket of peat and humus per 1 square meter is enough. For clay soil, you need to double the amount of peat and humus and add half a bucket of sand to them.

Planting seedlings of strawberries open ground in the following order:

  1. We mark the rows with a shallow furrow using a planting cord. Optimal Distance between rows - from 35 to 40 cm.
  2. We make holes in the rows with an interval of 30 cm and install a peat tablet with a seedling in each of them. The mesh from the tablet must be removed, and the tablet itself will eventually dissolve in the ground.
  3. Carefully fill the remaining space in the hole with earth. The growing point of strawberries should be above the ground.
  4. We compact the ground and carefully water the seedlings, trying not to erode the soil around the bush.

Caring for young strawberries

The healthy development of young strawberry bushes largely depends on proper care. Strawberries should be watered moderately and as the soil dries. Dry and crumbling soil in the hands is a signal for watering. It is important to prevent waterlogging of the soil, which adversely affects developing plant. Watering should be carried out under the root or drip method.

It is recommended to cut off the first flowers so that the young bushes get stronger, grow leaves and lay the harvest of berries for the next year by autumn. Also, this procedure will allow strawberries to gain strength for wintering. Regular weeding, cleaning of dry leaves and removal of mustaches that have grown in the aisles - important conditions for the healthy development of young plants.

In the first year, strawberries do not need to be fed, as the soil is fertilized before planting. The resulting nutrients will be enough until the fall. In the second year, starting in spring, top dressing can be carried out - at least three times per season. In the spring, you can feed the plants with mineral fertilizer, during the period of the nomination of peduncles - with mullein (1:6) or bird droppings (1:20) with the addition of ash, and at the beginning of flowering - with mullein (1:8).

In order to avoid damage to the berries by gray rot, it is recommended to tie strawberry brushes to pegs at the branching points. For low-growing varieties of strawberries, it is necessary to mulch the beds with sawdust, fresh shavings or straw.

As a rule, strawberries bear fruit well for only three years, not counting the year of planting. After that, its berries become small, the yield drops, and the bushes begin to hurt. Therefore, it is recommended from the second year of fruiting to propagate the bushes of the varieties you like. After removing old plants, young strawberry bushes will bear fruit for the second year.

Valentina Kravchenko, expert

As you can see, growing strawberries from seeds in peat tablets is not at all difficult and very exciting. Knowing all the subtleties of this process, you can cultivate any variety of fragrant and sweet berries on your site.

Have you already tried to grow strawberries in peat tablets? Which varieties perform best? Share your experience in the comments!

Small-fruited remontant varieties of strawberries are usually propagated by seeds, especially those that do not form a mustache. But it is not easy to grow an adult, well-bearing plant from seeds. Small-fruited strawberries transmit parental traits through seeds, which cannot be said about large-fruited garden strawberries (strawberries). I can say with confidence that when propagating seeds of large-fruited varieties of strawberries, "children" do not repeat the signs of "parents", especially if the seeds were collected from a bush in a private area. When propagating large-fruited garden strawberries with seeds, there is no guarantee that the characteristics and characteristics of the variety will be preserved. Do not forget that strawberries are pollinated by insects, which means that the seeds will be pollinated by sorting from neighbors. Such plants very quickly pass into the wild form, in short, degeneration occurs. Varieties lose their characteristics, the berries change shape, shrink.

Another thing is modern varieties of remontant small-fruited strawberries. They form flower buds and fruit continuously throughout the summer (from late May until frost). So at least 5 months of pleasure from fresh strawberries is guaranteed. And her berries are beautiful, fragrant and very tasty. In size, they are 4-5 times larger than wild strawberries, but they have the same strong taste and aroma inherent only in wild berries. It should be noted that this berry is very rich in iron, as well as pectins, which remove radionuclides and other substances from the human body. harmful substances. Do not forget that in addition to berries, flowers, leaves and rhizomes of the plant are also very useful. In addition, the bushes of small-fruited strawberries also bring aesthetic pleasure, because they can plant paths and flower beds. It's nice to admire on such bushes and massive lush bloom, and elegant berries.

Winter start is better. To date, there are many varieties of small-fruited remontant strawberries. But when buying, you must definitely pay attention to the expiration date of the seeds, they should not be expired. By palatability I especially like the following varieties: Ruyana, Baron Solemacher, Pineapple, Rügen, Alexandria, Renaissance, White Swan, Yellow Miracle, etc. Among them there are varieties with berries of different colors (red, yellow), there are bush (beardless) and "whiskered » varieties. Since the beardless strawberry, as the name of the species implies, does not give a mustache, it is propagated by seed or vegetatively by dividing the bush. To do this, I dig up a two- or three-year-old bush and divide it into smaller bushes, as a rule, these are 10-20 seedlings from one bush, which I plant in a new place. It is very convenient to care for such varieties, because they do not form a mustache. But the yield of such bushes is high. From a well-developed bush, with the right agricultural technology, I collect at least 200 berries (or 4 glasses) of strawberries per season.

A significant disadvantage of growing strawberries from seeds is the complexity of the process itself. Strawberry seeds must be stratified at a low positive temperature (in the refrigerator) in a humid environment. Then they long time germinate in the soil (up to 40 days). All this time the earth must be wet, and this is also ideal conditions for the development of fungi and mold, which always strive to destroy crops. Of course, if there are a lot of cheap seeds, you can risk sowing in the ground, but if there are only 3 seeds in a bag of seeds, you want to get a result, and not just experience.

The optimal time for sowing strawberry seeds in peat tablets is from the 20th of January to the end of February. In fact, seedlings can be grown at least all year round, but, sown in these terms, it will gain a sufficient mass by the time it is planted in the ground, forms a good root system, which will allow it to begin to bear fruit this year at the end of June and delight with an incomparable berry for the whole summer until frost. For comparison, last year I sowed strawberries on January 20 and February 25. In the process of growth, the January seedlings were ahead of the February ones and were ready for planting in open ground in May, and the berries on them ripened 2 weeks earlier.

However, when sowing early, seedlings should be illuminated with light bulbs. daylight, because in winter there is a short daylight hours, and strawberry seeds germinate only in the light. If you do not illuminate the seedlings, then you need to sow the seeds in March-April. It should be noted that if you plant strawberries late spring, then the harvest will not be in this, but in next year. After all, at least 5 months pass from the emergence of seedlings to the collection of berries. Although with good weather conditions a small harvest in autumn is possible.

Seedling tablet. I grew strawberries in different soil mixtures and different ways, however, the germination did not always please me, because even despite the warming up and steaming of the earthen mixture, many seedlings disappeared due to the black leg. Most best results achieved by sowing seeds in peat tablets. I was convinced that difficult-to-germinate and capricious strawberry seeds in peat tablets develop magnificently. In addition, it is very practical, because then you do not need to dive, but you can immediately plant seedlings in open ground or a larger glass. Seedlings grown in a tablet are very convenient to transplant. A thin mesh shell enveloping the tablet keeps the peat from spilling. In addition, the tablet contains a complex of mineral fertilizers that are able to nourish young plant for several weeks. The advantages of tablets are the natural qualities of peat - it is water and air permeability along with the possibility of unhindered development of the root system of plants.

Growing seedlings in tablets, I get a healthy, strong plant, which is transplanted into open ground without difficulty. The main advantage of peat tablets is that the root system of the plant is not injured during transplantation: seedlings are planted along with the tablet, the roots penetrate the retina, which then decomposes in the ground. However, according to my observations, it is still better to remove the mesh from the tablet - this is how small plants develop better. I do this with small nail scissors. The stress of transplanting the plant is then minimized, so that the root system remains intact and the plant continues to grow and develop. Another plus is that there are enough nutrients in the tablets for germination and growth, you just need to water it on time.

Peat tablets are different diameter- 24, 33, 38, 41, 44 mm. Given that the strawberry root system is not as powerful as other plants, I plant it in tablets with a diameter of 24 or 33 mm. For successful germination of seeds, it is necessary to provide a sufficient amount of water, air and maintain the microclimate parameters within the required limits: temperature, relative humidity, illumination.

After placing the tablets on a pallet or in cassettes (at the same time, you should pay attention to the fact that the recesses for the seeds are at the top of the tablets), they must be filled warm water. Tablets completely swell in 5-10 minutes. In this case, the tablet increases in height by 7 times, retaining its original diameter, turning into a peat cylinder. After 5-10 minutes, the excess water must be drained and placed with a toothpick in the recess at the top of each tablet seeds (one in each). Strawberry seeds germinate only in the light, so they can not be buried in the ground. The light coming from the window is still sufficient for germination. Tablets should be placed in a greenhouse or mini-greenhouse.

Germination of seeds in tablets should occur under conditions of a slightly higher (than room) temperature and relative humidity, which is achieved by covering containers plastic wrap, plastic or glass. The main goal is to create an airtight structure so that it is warm and humid inside. It is better to take a transparent and plastic container for seedlings, because it is the least susceptible to the spread of fungi. It should be thoroughly washed and disinfected - wipe strong mortar potassium permanganate. Great for this plastic containers, in which salads, plastic boxes for cakes, pastries and other things are packed. Suitable even five liter bottle laid on its side and cut in half. It is very convenient to buy a special micro-greenhouse in the store.

I close the greenhouse with a lid (bag, film or glass) and place it on the window. Optimum temperature for germination 20 ... 22 ° C, then fog forms on the transparent lid or glass, but more often you can see drops that must be removed both from the lid and from the walls. If the temperature is less than 20°C, nothing will grow except mold. Before the sprouts come to the surface, I moisten the containers, pouring water into the pan as the tablets dry. For irrigation, I use soft snow or boiled water, since an excess of any mineral salts negatively affects the growth of strawberry seedlings. It is necessary to carefully control the humidity of peat, it should not dry out, and should not be waterlogged. Sufficiency of watering can be determined by the appearance of a dark spot on the surface of the peat column. It is important that the peat dry out a little between waterings. You should regularly remove condensation (i.e. excess moisture) from the lid and from the walls with something that absorbs moisture well, such as a paper towel or napkin. After all, water drips onto the sprouts from above, and so that they do not get sick with a black leg, it is better to remove the condensate, and water it into the pan. Do not forget to ventilate the greenhouse daily for several minutes, this can be combined with the removal of condensate. If the peat tablets are very wet, then under them you can put paper towel when it gets wet, change it. If a direct hit hits the greenhouse sunlight, drops will form on the lid, even if the peat tablet is completely dry - this should not be allowed (you can scatter sunlight by placing a sheet of paper on the glass). I turn on additional lighting when a hatched sprout appears.

The first, unfriendly shoots of small-fruited strawberries may appear after 7-10 days, and they all hatch completely after about 20-30 days. It depends on the quality of the seeds and the conditions of their germination. Regarding lighting - it is advisable to bring the seedlings closer to the light or put additional fluorescent lamps or fitolamps. Without light, development is slower and seedlings are more likely to get sick. Strawberry seeds germinate in the light, and daylight is not enough in winter. Additional lighting at 12-14 hours for strawberries is enough. In clear weather, the light can be turned off for several hours, in cloudy weather it should be left on all the time. It is necessary to monitor the humidity in the greenhouse and remove condensation from the walls.

It is important that the tablets do not dry out. After germination, I pour water into the containers from below, since moisture on the leaves and stems stimulates the development of diseases. Overflows are practically excluded. And this is important, because with excessive moisture, the plants get sick with a black leg and die. If the tablet turns green, blackens, or cobweb fibers of white mold begin to form, it is urgent to get rid of the fungus. To do this, remove the foci of the spread of the fungus with soft paper or cotton wool moistened with potassium permanganate. After that, it is advisable to water for some time with antifungal agents, for example, previkur, and then monitor the ventilation.

After the appearance of the 2-3rd true leaf, the greenhouse can be opened - at this time, the plants should already develop a small root. I feed strawberries when the second real leaf appears, with kemir fertilizer or a master for fruit crops. Other will do complex fertilizer with low nitrogen content. Direct sunlight should be avoided.

When 3-4 pairs of true leaves appear, the seedling is transferred into a cup with purchased universal soil for seedlings. For this, ordinary plastic disposable cups with holes made in the bottom (cassettes can be used). The transparent walls of the cup will allow you to monitor the moisture content of the earth both on the surface and in depth. If the seedling is slightly stretched, it should be filled with soil to the cotyledon leaves. When picking seedlings, it is very important not to fill up the growing point of strawberries, from which these leaves grow.

After the plant gives roots, it must be accustomed to natural light and fresh air, that is, hardened. From April, preferably during the daytime, it is necessary to take the seedlings to the balcony for several hours, but make sure that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C. First, the period of access to fresh air should be short, then, with warming, it is extended until it is completely abandoned on the fresh air for the night. Before planting young plants in the ground, I install cups with strawberry seedlings outdoors in the shade. Gradually I accustom them to the sun, and then I plant strong and grown rosettes of strawberries in the garden.

It can be planted in the ground when the temperature at night does not fall below 5-7 ° C. I transplant into open ground after the appearance of the 6th true leaflet. The distance when planting should be about 25 cm. As a rule, I choose a place for planting strawberries that is sufficiently lit and the soil is fertile. During the dry season, I spend regular watering for the qualitative development of strawberries.

In young bushes planted in open ground no earlier than September, it is advisable to remove flowers and mustaches this year so that the seedlings take root well and overwinter safely.

You can buy imported strawberry seeds (USA, China) in our store.

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