Faucet aerator: its functions, device and modern innovations. Aerator for a water faucet or how to save water simply Benefits of using aerator nozzles

Virtually any faucet modern apartments- this is a mixer that connects the streams of cold and hot water into a liquid at a temperature comfortable or desired by the user. And now the fashionable word "aerator" is called, including a small threaded part wound on the spout of this mixer.

Why is it needed and why can it, and sometimes you need to buy it separately, choosing a “reinforced” option? Let's try to understand the details.

Table of contents:

Why do you need a faucet aerator?

The "official" purpose of any aerator is to reduce water consumption. That is why the second name of such a device is “economy”. The savings, according to the developers and sellers, is due to the mixing of the water jet with air. And if, under normal conditions, about 15 liters of water per minute go through a fully open tap, then the aerator corrects this figure to 6-8 liters, with virtually no pressure reduction.

In addition, the saving aerator can:

reduce the noise of the liquid flowing from the tap (air bubbles in the composition of the jet significantly soften its fall);
reduce the amount of splashes generated when the flow collides with the capacity of the sink or bath bowl (thanks to the same bubbles);
make the jet softer, more pleasant (especially important when it comes to water treatments for the face and body);
work as an additional coarse filter (by the way, all aerators are equipped with the simplest filters, without exception).

In general, all this is quite enough to think about choosing and purchasing such a device. Moreover, almost all of them have a universal design, which means they can be installed on any mixer.

And most of the aerators:

compact and not too conspicuous;
easy to use and install;
quite durable for the most part (if you do not make a mistake with the material, of course).

However, aeration devices also have disadvantages:

with low water quality in a centralized water supply system, any aerator needs to be constantly cleaned, repaired, or even changed;
a decrease in the incoming volume of water flow (and this may be important, for example, when you urgently need to fill some kind of container).

No other minuses behind the aerators were noticed.

How does a faucet aerator work?

A water aerator is a simple device, which nevertheless consists of 3 constituent parts: housing, cartridge and gasket. The latter provides a hermetic installation of the device. The main secret of the aerator is the scheme for manufacturing its cartridge. Depending on this, it can be:

slotted. In such a water-air mixture is formed using a special disk with technological slots. The flow of water, crashing into the deviating disk, passes through these narrow slots and breaks into small droplets. As a result, mixing with air occurs, and then the jet, passing through the divider, stabilizes.
Or disk, with a reflector. Such aerators have a different principle of operation. A disk with small holes divides the water stream into jets, which are mixed with air, breaking on a special reflector. A fine-mesh mesh acts as a divider in such devices.

Both methods of obtaining water-air mass are considered effective by experts. Therefore, manufacturers of aerators actively use both.

What are aerators: classification

Aerators are not particularly distinguished by a variety of shapes and technical modifications. But these devices still have a classification.

According to the material of manufacture, all aerators can be divided into:

Also, according to technological features, aerators are divided into:

internal devices for a crane equipped with external thread and screwed deep into the mixer;
external fixtures (already with an internal thread) that are screwed onto the end of the mixer from the outside;
swivel or flexible devices that extend the faucet nose (they look like a hose, and with a hand movement you can direct such a hose, and hence the water-air flow in the direction you need);
second type swivel fixtures, consisting of two parts and connected by a hinge (these are ideal for installation on bidet mixers);
illuminated devices that provide visual appeal to the flow of water mixed with air.

DIY aerator

Although store-bought devices for saturating water with air in order to save water flow are inexpensive, there is always a temptation for craftsmen to make a do-it-yourself aerator for a faucet. Moreover, the design of such devices is extremely simple, which means it is available for reproduction even by the most “terry” amateurs who have never created anything.

For such technical creativity you will need:

Housing of the future device ( perfect option- the most common nozzle on the crane).
A piece of dense, durable plastic (a gasket with holes to saturate the water with air will be made from it).
Simple tools for designing an aerator and its subsequent installation.

The manufacturing process itself can be divided into 3 stages:

Making a special gasket (making holes in a piece of plastic cut to the desired size).
Installation of the finished plate in the body of the future aerator.
Installation homemade aerator on the mixer.

It is clear that the plastic plate will play the role mesh filter- break the stream and saturate it with air. Thus, the main goal is achieved - saving water consumption. You can also save money on buying an aerator. Plus experience own forces, as a master capable of manufacturing and assembling very useful things in everyday life.

Aerator for saving: is there one?

It is believed that installing an aerator on a faucet (most often on a mixer) is the most affordable and safest way to save on water consumption by saturating its flow with air.

But is it really so? Is it really possible to significantly change the meter readings? Let's try to figure it out.

The aerator, as a device, got its name from the process that carries out. "Aeration" is translated from Greek as "air", and the operation implies the natural saturation of water with air. Such transmission air bubbles through a liquid (that is, the transformation of an elastic jet into a bubbling one) promises to reduce water consumption at the same pressure. And the recorded data of some studies conducted by reputable organizations allow us to talk about 50% savings in water flow, provided that an aerator is installed on the faucet. Therefore, there is definitely a sense in this device.

Installing an aerator

Modern models of water aeration devices are durable, contrary to popular belief about their imminent failure. They are now made from appropriate materials using the latest technologies (for example, the holes in the disks today have a larger diameter than in predecessor devices), and therefore they last a long time. And besides, such aerators are equipped with multi-stage filtration systems, which means that they are rightfully considered multifunctional devices.

To independently install one of the models of such a device on the mixer, you need to fix the existing aerator at the very end of the tap using threaded connection, according to the diagram below:

Upgraded versions of aerating devices

For many users, it is the aesthetic, rather than economic, possibilities of aerators that are of key importance. For their faucets in kitchens and bathrooms, these people choose decorative devices. And most often we are talking about backlit aerators. After all, it is enough to open the mixers equipped with them so that the water jet changes shade.

Upgraded modern options aerating devices are equipped with a microturbine with an electric generator, as well as a temperature sensor. These aerators are designed in such a way that the color of the jet flowing from the tap depends on its temperature:

cool water (up to 31 ° C) turns green;
warm flow (up to 43°C) turns blue;
a hot water(from 45 ° C and above) comes out already red.

If you look at it, then such an effect has not only an aesthetic function, but also a practical one - it “informs” the user about the temperature of the liquid that flows from the tap.

As for the operating temperature range of devices of this type, it is limited to 60 degrees Celsius.

Other options

Families with small children often install toy aerators on faucets. Nozzles in the form of animals, as well as fabulous or cartoon characters, also have universal sizes and types of attachment, so they can be easily mounted on any crane.

The toys on the faucets look beautiful and unusual, and in addition to the aesthetic, they also have a practical option - with them it is easier to get addicted to water hygiene procedures even the most stubborn dirty.

The aerator model, created quite recently by a young London designer Simin Qiu, is also considered an innovative development. Its device turns the flow of water from a tap into bizarre spirals that create beautiful, bewitchingly unusual "grids" of liquid at the exit.

Cleaning and installation technology

As for the practical side of the work of any aerator, we must not forget that this device also acts as a filter. And if it becomes clogged, the water flow will simply dry up. This means that it is necessary to clean the aerator from time to time or change the device when it finally fails.

Dismantling

For cleaning and replacement, first of all, you need to dismantle the fixture. And in order to carry out dismantling efficiently and easily, you should pay attention to 2 faces located on the body of any aerator diametrically opposite to each other.

Holding these edges, you should rotate the device clockwise. If rotation by hand is difficult, you must resort to using a wrench or pliers. But you need to act carefully so as not to break the thread, do not damage either the aerator or the mixer.

Structural disassembly

It is easy to disassemble the aerator for cleaning. It is only necessary to take out one by one the mesh-gaskets laid in the body. But first of all, the rubber gasket is removed and its condition is assessed. Cleaning consists in high-quality washing of elements, removal of dirt, suspension, and other particles.

It is most effective to remove all unnecessary from the nets with an old toothbrush. And if something is not removed, you can use a wooden toothpick. mineral deposits are eliminated by a dissolving acidic medium (for example, if the filters are soaked for 30 minutes in apple cider vinegar). Rust is removed with special chemicals.

Reassembly

When all the elements of the aerator are cleaned, you need to assemble the device, and then install it in place. And here it is important to adhere to the rule: the filter meshes should be laid strictly in layers so that the wires forming the cells are at an angle of 45 ° relative to each other.

Before you install the nozzle, you need to lay a rubber washer and twist the aerator counterclockwise, but without undue zeal.

You can check the performance of the device only by opening the water. If a leak from under the head is obvious, you will have to slightly tighten the structure with pliers.

Faucet aerator is small device in the form of a strainer, fixed on the spout of the mixer and for mixing water with air and limiting the flow without a noticeable reduction in its intensity for the consumer.

Many owners, misunderstanding the purpose of this device, dismantle it, considering this device to be an analogue of a coarse filter and motivating it by the presence of a good one or by the fact that it limits the passage of water, while it is already underestimated. However, the aerator in the mixer, although it retains sand and salt particles, is not a filter, and removing it, the user makes a mistake.

Functions: why is it needed?

Small holes are placed around the perimeter of the aerator through which air is sucked in and mixed with water. As a result, foamy, saturated with air bubbles, aerated water comes out of the central part of the device.

Nozzle Advantages:

the noise level decreases - water mixed with air makes less noise;
affordable price: the average price for a regular aerator is from 2 to 10 dollars;
ease of installation / dismantling and maintenance
saving water, which is important for owners of water meters.

Flaw:

fragility, the device requires replacement every year, and if the house has old pipes, then every six months.

Important! By creating a highly efficient water jet, the aerator helps to reduce its consumption and improve quality, therefore, the consumer is interested not to dismantle the device, but to monitor it. good condition that is, timely cleaning and replacement.

Aerator device

Any aerator consists of:

corps
plastic module with filter system
rubber or silicone gasket

Grids with cells are folded into a cylindrical module one after another in a certain sequence. The first two meshes direct the jet of water and simultaneously perform a cleaning function, while the rest are designed to mix water with air.

Materials for the production of aerators:

metal- designs from it are the most common and inexpensive. The disadvantage is that the device quickly collapses from exposure to water and impurities, corrodes and rusts to holes;
polymer materials, their advantages: good quality and acceptable price, perfectly withstand the destructive effect of water. There are different designs: from simple dividers to complex "tunnel";
ceramics and non-ferrous metals(brass or bronze) - the most expensive, differ high quality and long service life.

Photo: aerators after 3 years of use

Maintenance and cleaning

For the qualitative performance of its functions, the aerator for the mixer must always be technically sound. Over time, under the influence tap water the impurities contained in it, salt particles and iron oxides are deposited on the surface of the filter meshes and the device ceases to perform its functions.

Signs of a bad aerator:

absence of the characteristic hissing sound of flowing water
weak water pressure

In this case, the device requires cleaning or replacement.

How to clean the aerator:

Read about in the next article.

There is practically not a single natural source left on earth that would contain water suitable for prolonged use. This fact has been repeatedly confirmed by the relevant departments. Therefore, the organization of water treatment is one of the main tasks facing the owners of suburban areas. Of course, you should create a water treatment plant only based on a comprehensive laboratory analysis of water from your source. But given that the iron content exceeds allowable norms almost everywhere, without an aerator, not a single water treatment system can be called a full-fledged one.

Today we will talk about assembling a water treatment plant based on an aerator (non-pressure aeration column) on our own.

Briefly about aeration

Aeration is usually called the process of saturating water with oxygen (basically, the process is forced) in order to purify it from iron, manganese and other oxidizable compounds. Simply put, we are talking about substances that, after reacting with oxygen, take insoluble forms and precipitate as a precipitate. Subsequent filtration or settling allows you to rid the water of the resulting sediment, which contains harmful impurities.

In the process of aeration, the main catalyst for removing harmful impurities from the water is the oxygen contained in the air. In other words, aeration means non-reagent deironing of water - the most economical of the known methods of deferrization.

Another cleaning method, the effectiveness of which is beyond doubt, is the following: iron removal using chemical catalysts (passing water through activated carbon, porous aluminosilicate with a special coating or other special filler).

Together, both listed ways help achieve excellent results.

MTT FORUMHOUSE user

In serious water treatment systems, aeration is only one of the stages in the process of iron removal and demanganization. At this stage, the water is saturated with oxygen (for further and complete oxidation of iron with the help of catalysts), and the removal of dissolved gases occurs.

Distinguish between non-pressure and pressure aeration systems. The design of pressure aeration systems provides for the presence of a closed aerator (contact chamber), in which water is saturated with oxygen using a compressor. In such a system, there is no loss of water pressure, therefore, water enters the distributing line under pressure, which creates a pump (pumping station) of the first lift. For a pressurized system, a second lift pump is not needed.

The main elements of the pressure aeration system:

The supply line with a mud filter.
Compressor that pumps air into the aeration column.
Aeration column with air valve(with air vent).
Iron filter.

It is more difficult to make a pressure aeration system on your own than its non-pressure counterpart. At the same time, its reliability in comparison with a non-pressure aeration system can also be called into question.

Andre.voda FORUMHOUSE user

Non-pressure aeration works better and more reliably than pressure! Consider the option with pressure aeration: what are the leaks arising from clogging of the air vent .... And the failure of check valves, and failures of the flow sensor .... If the compressor stopped in pressure aeration, then everything is kirdyk: there is no oxidation, and iron does not fall out.

Considering all of the above, we will consider the option of installing a pressureless aeration system, especially since most of the "experimenters" of our portal practice.

In the case of non-pressure aeration, an aerator is used open type where water pressure is lost. Therefore, such systems need to be available additional pump(pumping station) of the second rise, supplying water to the distributing line. The aerator in this case performs the function of a storage tank, at the same time allowing you to solve the issue of providing a certain supply of water for the plumbing system.

Scheme of a water treatment system based on a non-pressure aeration column

Schematically, a water purification system operating on the principle of non-pressure aeration is as follows.

Supply line with first lift pump and mechanical sump filter.
Aeration unit with second lift pump.
Iron filter.
Block fine cleaning water.
Drainage line for flushing the system.

Let's consider the presented elements in more detail.

supply line

The main element of the supply line (if you do not take into account the pipes themselves) is the pump (pumping station) of the first lift. This device can be dispensed with only if water is supplied to the installation from a centralized water supply system. If the water is pumped from a well or a well, then an ordinary deep pump can be installed in the supply line.

Everyone determines the need to install a mud filter for himself.

If a float valve is used to regulate the water supply in the aeration tank, then the coarse filter (sump), retaining large mechanical impurities, protects the valve from sticking. If automation is used to control the first lift pump, then the supply line can even work without filters.

Operator FORUMHOUSE user

Installing filters is the time to wash and maintain them. Without filters, all debris from the well and iron deposits remain in the storage tank. For a year, I have about 5 cm sediment at the bottom there. In the summer, I open the drain and flush all the sediment down the drain. Otherwise, all this will have to be cleaned out of the filters. So I removed all the filters that I foolishly put in the filling system. I pump everything from the well into the tank. Debris remains at the bottom.

aeration block

The main element of the aeration block is the aeration tank, in which water is saturated with oxygen, iron is oxidized and primary sediment is deposited.

To create an aerator, you can use a container that has a specialized purpose and has a design that provides for the possibility of backwashing. For example, the photo shows a specialized container with a volume of 1 m³.

Also, an aerator can be made from a container designed to filter water in pools. At the same time, some users of our portal use the usual plastic barrels for food storage.

valexs FORUMHOUSE user

From the well, water is supplied by a deep pump into a barrel of 250 liters.

The volume of the working capacity is a very important indicator. According to user valexs, an aerator with a capacity of 250 liters provides water for a family of 4 people. At the same time, no one experiences a shortage of water. Approximately 94 m³ of water is consumed per year (200-300 liters per day).

As you can see, the system is quite functional. If you have more planned water consumption, then the volume of the tank can be increased. A 1000 liter aerator, for example, allows you to provide purified water not only Vacation home, but also a system for watering the garden. Some users practice the creation of an aeration unit from two containers: water is settled in one, and water is consumed from the other.

The ordinary showering method will help start the aeration process in the tank. We are talking about the spraying of water entering the tank under a certain pressure.

Operator FORUMHOUSE user

A very simple way: from the well you collect a tank through a shower diffuser. Water does not just pour, but pours out of the shower under great pressure, saturated with oxygen. Almost immediately, the water becomes cloudy, and iron begins to precipitate.

It is very important to let the water settle after filling the container. Otherwise, all main filters located in the cleaning system after the aeration tank will quickly become clogged.

According to our users, it takes at least 36 hours to fully settle the water. Therefore, the larger the volume of the aeration tank, the more convenient it is to operate. After all, if you adjust the equipment to fill the aerator in small portions, then the time spent on settling water will practically not be felt.

The efficiency of the shower head can be significantly increased. So, for example, the user valexs did. He installed an ordinary plastic bucket (upside down) on top of the aeration tank. Water from the sprayer under high pressure hits the bottom of the plastic bucket. This leads to the formation of water mist and more efficient mixing of the liquid with oxygen.

The atomizer is built into the lid of the container, in which holes are drilled for draining water enriched with oxygen.

A corrugation is mounted on top of the bucket. It provides a connection of the tank with the atmosphere and prevents splashing of incoming water.

Water extraction and aerator filling

The water outlet from the tank must be installed at a level that will not allow the formed sediment to enter the water main.

Operator

Water from the tank should not be taken from the bottom, but about 30% above the bottom. Then the sediment does not enter the system.

Concerning the activation and deactivation levels of the first lift pump: the pump activation sensor must be located above the level of water withdrawal from the aerator. This will create a certain reserve of settled water, which can be used even in the process of filling the tank. In this case, the amount of unsettled water entering the water main will be minimal, and fine filters can easily cope with mechanical suspensions.

kilby FORUMHOUSE user

The water supply switch-on level sensor is installed so that between it and the water intake level at pumping station there was at least 100 liters of water. This volume and contact time is quite enough for the smooth operation of the system.

The water supply control system is of two types: mechanical and automatic (based on electronic sensors).

Example mechanical system- This is an ordinary float from the toilet tank. Its design is extremely simple, and the shortcomings are immediately evident. It is almost impossible to adjust: the pump turns on as soon as the water drops below the upper level. This process occurs with an "enviable" frequency, which does not allow water to settle qualitatively.

Automatic system consisting of electrical sensors, allows you to turn on and off the water supply when certain levels are reached. Which is much more practical.

Konstantin11 FORUMHOUSE user

A bar with control frogs (there are four frogs in total: two working and two emergency). The tank is filled to 80% (maximum). Deep pump turns on when about 100 liters of water remain in the tank, and turns off when about 800 liters of it are collected.

Reinsurance in the form of installation of emergency sensors is important point. If the pump does not turn on in a timely manner, nothing terrible will happen. A real disaster can befall the owner of the aeration unit if the pump does not turn off after filling the tank.

This is how one of our users insured his premises against a possible “flood”.

Operator

I also have a three-level barrel overflow insurance system: an electric float, a mechanical float, and a drain to the street into a storm drain.

Second lift pump

The second lift pump provides a stable pressure throughout the plumbing. Also, with its help, water is supplied to the deironing filter and fine filters.

To operate the pumping station of the second lift, you should use a pump equipped with an automatic on-off system, triggered by a signal from pressure sensors (which it is desirable to duplicate).

Konstantin11

The photo shows the pump of the second lift (it stands to the right of the tank). The drain line is clearly visible. Pressure sensors are also clearly visible, which, due to the tendency to stick, stand with the covers removed. It's good that they are duplicated, and their sticking does not affect the performance of the system. Poorly visible mud trap and check valve but they are needed.

In almost all systems, the pump is located at the outlet of the aerator. But the users of our portal have their own view of things. For example, there is an opinion that if the pumping station is located immediately after the aerator, then underoxidized iron accumulates in it, which clogs not only the pump, but also the control sensors. For this reason, it is advisable to place the pumping station after the deironing filter. It is difficult to disagree with this conclusion, especially since the author of the concept (the user - the Operator) was able to assemble a working installation in accordance with such a non-standard scheme.

The second lift pump should be selected based on the hydraulic characteristics of the device. Also important is the reputation of the manufacturer.

Filter-deironing agent with filler

The bulk of the iron contained in the water precipitates to the bottom of the aeration tank. But for better cleaning, we will definitely need a system of additional filters. To get rid of the remnants of unoxidized iron, an iron-removing filter is used. It is a vertical column with bulk content.

morteh FORUMHOUSE user

The column represents plastic pipe with a diameter of 300 mm and a height of 2000 mm. bottom ( stainless steel b = 8 mm) is screwed through the rubber seal with M8x40 bolts with a pitch of 40 mm. The lid is the same as the bottom, only in the center a 3/4" stainless steel screw is welded in, and the second one is the same 60 mm from it.

In this case, used polyethylene pipe, while the design of serial units involves the use of fiberglass.

When determining the volume of the filter for your system, you should be guided by the size of standard installations: their diameter varies from 6 to 16 inches, and height - 17-65 inches. The exact volume of the filter (as well as the volume of the media) can be calculated by knowing the characteristics of the backfill, the water flow and the level of impurities.

When determining the level of filter loading, it should be taken into account that during washing or regeneration, the filler layer increases under the action of the back pressure of water. Taking into account the expansion coefficient, the filter should be filled with catalytic filler to approximately 60%.

The internal design of the iron remover is designed in such a way that water enters it from above, then passes through a layer of catalytic backfill and only then enters the water main (through the lower intake pipe).

morteh

A pipe is screwed to the central bend of the cover, a slotted filter is screwed to the end of the pipe. assembled. When the cover is installed on the column, this filter does not reach the bottom by about 30–50 mm. A slotted filter is also placed on the drainage squeegee screwed into the lid. It is needed so that during backwashing, backfill is not washed out of the column.

The intake tube passes through the entire layer of catalytic filler.

In some cases, it is possible for mechanical impurities to slip from the aerator into the deironing filter (if the water in the aerator has not yet had time to settle, if the tap was turned on in the house at the time of filling the aeration tank, etc.). Therefore, it is desirable to protect the iron remover by installing a mechanical filter at the outlet of the aerator.

Konstantin11

For example, after the tank (or rather, between it and the second lift station) I have an ordinary mud sump.

It is better to choose a filler for an iron remover that does not need additional regeneration. It is characterized by ease of maintenance, which comes down to periodic washing of the filter with a reverse flow of water. On the market, fillers of this type are presented in large quantities.

With a low iron content for iron removal, you can use quartz sand. The following fillers have also proven themselves well: activated carbon and aluminosilicate coated with iron and manganese oxides.

An example of a filler that requires periodic regeneration with acids or common salt is an ion exchange resin.

In order to determine the type of filler and its quantity, it is necessary to conduct a comprehensive analysis of the source water in the source and study the properties of a particular backfill.

Konstantin11

I chose the filter materials myself - based on water analysis and technical descriptions filter media. In the left column: quartz sand at the bottom (a tube sits in it), then industrial filler. On the right is a softener.

The user implemented a two-stage cleaning system with a combined filler. The first stage is used to remove iron residues (which have not had time to oxidize in the aerator) and for mechanical cleaning, the second stage is used to soften water.

Pressure gauges built into the line allow you to control the degree of clogging of the filters.

Filter washing

Even if the backfill of the deironing filter does not need regeneration, the owner will still have to periodically rinse it during operation. Therefore, all self-cleaning filters (including iron removal and aeration tanks) must be equipped with a bypass and drain lines.

It is worth installing a few additional taps, and the flushing line will let the water flow into reverse direction(almost directly from the source). Drain lines can be brought out to sewer system or a storm drain.

Operator

The catalyst barrel is regularly backflushed. There's a six-position tap on the barrel. And at the exit from the iron remover there is a regular filter - a cartridge of 0.5 microns. For the aerator, I made the following flushing system: at the bottom of the barrel, a drain with a tap, once a year I open the drain and at the same time pour it, washing the sediment down the drain.

The frequency of washing the iron remover and other filters, everyone determines for himself. It depends on the degree of water contamination, on the volume of its consumption and on the characteristics of the backfill (on its tendency to caking). You can read more details in a special section of our website.

To ensure high-quality flushing, the water flow rate in the return flow should be 2–3 times higher than the flow rate of the working flow. The pressure in the flush line must be at least 2.5–3 atm. (more is possible, but at the same time it is necessary to ensure that the backfill does not end up in the drainage).

If the second lift pump does not have sufficient power, an additional pumping station can be installed for flushing.

Filler regeneration is a little different from normal flushing. After all, in the process of regeneration, special reagents(which ones - depends on the type of filler). First, the filler is washed with water from mechanical impurities and loosened at the same time (for 15–20 minutes). Then, a reagent (a solution of salt, acid, etc.) is supplied to the flushing line using a pump and an additional container. At the last stage of regeneration, the filler is washed from the reagent.

You can read about how in the corresponding FORUMHOUSE topic. Here, users of our portal share their tips and practical experience. can be found in a section specially created for this purpose. The article will talk about simple and affordable way, allowing you to provide water to your country house. And in the video about the creation of the caisson, practical idea, allowing you to organize a modern and reliable system for supplying water from a well to a country house.

A few years ago, when buying a faucet for a kitchen or bathroom, sometimes you could see kits with a removable or built-in aerator on sale. Many, considering them to be an ordinary filter, independently removed this modification from the tap, citing the fact that they already have a built-in filter installed.

Today it is quite difficult to purchase any mixer without this additional element, which performs not only its direct function (filters and saturates water with oxygen), but also contributes to a significant reduction in water consumption.

Description and features

A faucet aerator is a small strainer mounted on a spout. This device allows you to saturate ordinary water with air microparticles, that is, to aerate it. An aerator is often referred to as a "diffuser" because it divides one large stream of liquid down the spout into many smaller streams.

The main details of such a device are:

case (most often made of metal or plastic);
filters for additional purification of water from small litter;
water and gas mixer (with the help of holes along the perimeter, air is sucked into the housing);
outer mesh (for dividing the main jet into many small jets);
various bushings and seals (for a tight connection).

The aerator allows you to create different types water flow:

aerated - voluminous soft jet without splashing;
laminar - intense crystal clear jet;
spray - a lot of miniature jets.

Purpose

The main function of the tap water aerator is to saturate it with oxygen microparticles. This not only significantly changes its taste properties in better side, but also contributes to faster weathering of chlorine if the water in the region is chlorinated. In addition, the jet itself falls more gently on the bottom of the sink and on objects placed in it, which significantly reduces the splashing of liquid on the surrounding space. If the kitchen has rotary aerator then washing the major kitchen utensils simplified several times, the water flow reduces its striking force and more gently washes away cleaning products from the soaped surface.

Another function of the faucet aerator is water saving. Although the device itself is not very reliable and often needs to be replaced (at least once a year), it reduces water consumption by a factor of two or more.

At the same time, the convenience of washing dishes with such savings does not become lower, but even increases due to more high efficiency use. With a wide jet, dishes are washed several times faster, which also saves time on cleaning. homework. The second disadvantage, in addition to frequent replacement, can be called slow speed a set of water in a container, but this disadvantage is so insignificant that it can be safely neglected.

What are there?

The simplest aerator is a small round atomizer with a metal mesh screwed into the faucet spout. Today, such a standard device is included with any purchased mixer and, like a foot valve, will reduce water consumption by at least 30 percent. It will last about six months, after which it needs to be replaced with a similar or more complex device.

Rotary aerators are also called flexible, as they can be rotated in different directions. One of the options for such a device is a special elongated hose tube, which is attached to the spout spout. Such a device allows you to collect liquid even in those containers that do not fit in the sink bowl.

The second option is an aerator in the form of a small watering can, similar to a shower head. Adjustable in length, it can be moved around the sink area and used in spray and jet modes. By adjusting the inclination of the aerator head and the water pressure, you can achieve perfect result in each specific situation.

A jet of liquid in an interesting illuminated device is illuminated depending on its temperature. Cold water (up to 29 degrees) is highlighted in green, warm (from 30 to 38 degrees) - blue, and hot (above 40 degrees) highlighted in red. This is implemented due to internal thermal sensors that do not require connection to the mains. The built-in turbine that feeds the LED lamps rotates due to the flow of water when the tap is opened, therefore this method of saturating water with oxygen is also called ejector.

Illuminated devices are especially convenient for families with small children, as they allow you to immediately find out the temperature of the liquid by the color of the stream when you open it. Besides bright colors will help to attract the attention of the child, and bathing will take place in a more relaxed atmosphere. Also, a backlit aerator is often installed on sensorless touchless faucets in order to immediately see what temperature water is pouring from it.

The vacuum aerator is considered the most economical, it allows you to reduce the amount of water used by half. The price of such nozzles significantly exceeds the usual ones, but quickly pays off. vacuum system compresses the water with a special valve, after which it forms a strong jet passing through the filter cells under a stronger pressure than the pressure in the central system.

In addition to the design of the device itself, aerators may differ in the type of nozzles. Disc fixtures They are nozzles with a round disk, in which there are small holes for liquid. With their help, the main flow is divided into thin streams and dissected by a reflector ( metal mesh). The slotted aerator saturates the liquid with air by breaking the water flow into separate drops through special slots in the deflecting disk, after which the oxygen-enriched jet is cut through the metal mesh of the filter.

Since the device of any aerator includes various filtering and separating grids, then the difference may be due to the type of material from which they are made:

From metal. The simplest and cheapest elements that have the shortest service life.

From polymers. Polymer dividers can be either simple disks similar to metal ones or complex “tunnel” systems. The plasticity of the material allows you to create not only round aerators, but also rectangular, hexagonal and devices complex shape. They practically do not oxidize from contact with water and air, which significantly extends their service life, but at the same time increases their price. In addition, polymers are most often quite fragile and can break from a little pressure when washing plumbing.
From non-ferrous metals. Brass, bronze aerators are expensive to manufacture, as a result of which they have a rather high price. However, the service life and reliability of the design perfectly compensate for their cost.
Grids made of plastic and extruded aluminium. Both of these options have many disadvantages: brittle, short-lived, aluminum is highly oxidized and tightly welded to inner surface spout pipes, plastic can be deformed when high temperatures. Their only merit is low price, however, the risks posed by the choice of such low-quality products are too high.

According to the installation method, it is possible to distinguish between an internal aerator (screwed into the spout) and an external aerator (screwed onto the spout).

Diameter

In addition to differences in design features and materials, aerators differ in thread sizes. Since its size must correspond to the diameter of the spout pipe, it is very important to choose the necessary parameters correctly (an aerator with a thread of 18 mm will not fit on a tap with a spout diameter of 22 mm and vice versa). The diameter of the aerator can vary from 12 to 1200 mm. The height of the device is 14-2000 mm, and the diameter of the air channel is from 20 to 2200 mm. The thread size is indicated alphanumerically (M20, M24, M28, and so on) and is indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer.

Most often, three standard thread diameters are used: 28/26, 24/22 and 18/16 mm. It follows from this ratio that if an external thread of 28 mm is used, then the internal thread for the same tap will be 26 mm. Another important point is to buy an aerator with an external thread for a spout with an external thread, respectively. The same is true for spouts with internal threads.

Manufacturers Overview

How more reliable manufacturer, the less likely it is to buy a marriage or a fake, so when choosing a mixer nozzle, it is best to choose companies that top the rating of the best according to customer reviews.

Grohe. Sanitary fittings made in Germany are of high quality, wide operational modifications and original design.
Jacob Delafon. French nozzles, predominantly made of sanitary porcelain, are considered elite equipment. The high price guarantees long term service and excellent product quality.

Finnish aerators Timo created using modern technologies from various materials, including both complex polymers and bronze or brass. For products of various shapes, sizes and colors, a five-year warranty card is provided, which indicates a serious approach to the quality of products.
Oras. Aerators manufactured in Poland, Finland and Norway with innovative approach not so long ago they entered the domestic market, but have already firmly taken a leading position in it. Plumbing accessories of this brand are equipped with automation and are easy to use, and the price can compete even with Chinese counterparts.

Depending on the design of the material and the manufacturer, the cost of aerators in the construction market ranges from 2 to 10 dollars.

How to choose?

In order to choose a suitable aerator, it is necessary to focus primarily on the quality of the product and its price. The cheapest, but least reliable plastic and aluminum nozzles will last from a couple of months to six months. Slightly more reliable are considered more expensive metal and ceramic aerators. However, they are also highly susceptible to corrosion and their service life leaves much to be desired. Brass nozzles are considered the most durable and reliable.

The second thing you should pay attention to is the fastening on the faucet spout. The device can be with an external or internal thread and is selected depending on the thread of the mixer itself. Last but not least important aspect is the presence additional features. In the bathroom, an aerator with lighting will look good, and in the kitchen, any hostess will be delighted flexible device, which allows you to comfortably wash even the largest pot in the sink.

Can you make your own?

Knowing the principle of operation and the scheme of the purchased aerator, in order to save money, you can try to make it yourself. In order to make such a nozzle, you must have an empty case from any nozzle on the faucet and a strong plastic plate. Gaskets are cut out of plastic, matching in size with the inner diameter of the nozzle.

With the help of a red-hot needle or a sharp awl, many holes are made in such a gasket so that it resembles a fine mesh. Ready nets are placed in the empty body of the nozzle instead of conventional filters, and the nozzle is attached to the spout. Such an aerator will perform all the functions assigned to it, however, its service life is significantly lower purchased products, especially with brass nets.

Installation instructions

Installation of the aerator is not particularly difficult even for a person who has never encountered this device. In order to install a new or replace an old aerator, you must adhere to a certain algorithm.

First you need to remove from the mixer all the nozzles installed on it earlier. Unscrew the body and remove the old rubber gasket placed on the spout spout. The joint must be thoroughly cleaned and washed, and then allowed to dry slightly.

In the package with the device, you must find a seal in the form rubber gasket and put it on the faucet spout. If there is no such seal in the kit, you will have to buy it yourself. It should be of such a diameter that it fits the mixer. If the diameters of the aerator and the mixer itself are different, then you must additionally purchase a special adapter and additional gaskets. The material of the adapter must match the materials of the faucet and aerator. After the adapter, a rubber gasket is also placed on it.

When building a private house or cottage, sooner or later you have to think about equipping your home with everything necessary for a comfortable stay.

These primary needs include: gas, heating, electricity and clean, potable water.

Home supply clean water can be achieved in three main ways:

central water supply;
well;
well.

When water enters the house from a well, it needs thorough cleaning. Usually it contains a high content of iron, manganese, sand, hydrogen sulfide, and this is only a part of those harmful and dangerous substances that unfiltered water is rich in.

The level of water pollution depends on what equipment is best used to purify it:

aerators;
settling tanks;
filters.

To select the most suitable equipment for water filtration, it is necessary to make its chemical analysis. And be as detailed as possible. Modern methods water filtration can significantly increase its quality characteristics, even in cases with great content gland.

But, unfortunately, not everyone can afford equipment, the cost of which sometimes amounts to tens and even hundreds of thousands of rubles. Therefore, people are increasingly making all kinds of filters, aerators and water sumps with their own hands. How to make an aerator for a well or a well with your own hands, we will consider in this article.

The principle of water purification

The process of removing iron and other unnecessary elements from the water is that the ferrous iron contained in the water must be changed to trivalent, which then accumulates in the form of rust and dirt at the bottom of the tank.

As everyone knows from school curriculum in chemistry, ferrous iron becomes trivalent during the oxidation reaction with oxygen.

Also an additional plus to the oxidation of iron will be the purification of water from hydrogen sulfide and other undesirable chemical elements.

Self-assembly

Water aerator installation diagram. (Click to enlarge) In order to create conditions for maximum interaction of water with oxygen, you will need to assemble a simple aerator.

The basis of the aerator will be a simple tank (it is better to choose a container made of food-grade polyethylene), which is best placed in the attic of the house.

It is advisable to buy a tank of as large a volume as possible, so that in which case there is a supply of water for several days. Keep in mind that a maximum of 75% of the available water can be used because sediment and sediment collect at the bottom.

Water enters the tank directly from a well or well, bypassing the solenoid valve. The valve should be chosen larger to obtain a better pressure, and therefore faster filling of the tank.

Expert advice: it is highly desirable to make a shut-off valve in front of the water supply to the tank so that it can be cleaned when the need arises.

The main function of the aerator is that water is supplied to the tank through special sprayers, which ensures maximum contact of water molecules with oxygen. As a sprayer, it is best to use a piece of stainless steel perforated with many small holes.

Additional aeration

For faster oxidation of iron and high-quality aeration of water, it will not be superfluous to install a compressor in the tank (an aquarium one is quite suitable).

You can fix the compressor in many ways, and we will not stop there.

It is important to ensure that the compressor nozzle (air diffuser) does not touch the bottom, otherwise this may harm the subsequent operation of the aerator.

In order to prevent dust from entering the storage tank, it is necessary to take care of the presence of a cover. If a lid was not provided with the tank, then you should make it yourself from food-grade plastic or stainless metal.

Draining water from storage tank

Since sediment accumulates at the bottom of the tank, it would be more correct to drain the water into the water supply at home at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bottom.

And you can always adjust the water supply parameters by bending the inner section of the pipe in the desired direction.

To drain precipitation and rust, it is prudent to make a hole with a diameter of about 10-15 cm in the bottom of the tank and install a tube with a drain cock into it.

Additional water filtration

Flow filter mechanical water purification When the water in the tank has settled for at least a day, all rust should already accumulate in the form of sediment at the bottom of the aerator.

If the concentration of iron in the water is excessively high, then it would be better to additionally install a mechanical water filter.

And remember that the larger the diameter of the filter mesh, the lower the resistance of the incoming water.

That, in general, is all that is needed to obtain water of acceptable quality from a well or well. Reviews about this aerator vary, but most people say that using it in the country or in country house quite convenient and the quality of the filtered water is satisfactory. Yes, and the cost of components for the aerator is more than paid off in one season.

Having made an aerator for water filtration, you not only purify water from iron, hydrogen sulfide and other impurities, but also get a container with a supply of water for several days, in case of unforeseen circumstances.

Watch the video in which an experienced user explains in detail how to make a do-it-yourself aerator for water from a well:

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