Drain from a plastic barrel with overflow. How to make a shower drain in the country with your own hands. Pros and cons of the materials used

Content

The issue of draining for a shower in the country is solved by many in “old-fashioned ways”. Someone pours water under garden plantings, others lead the drain to the sewer, and some do not care about this problem at all, believing that it is enough to install a grate under the shower frame, and then all the waste water will seep into the ground. How to make a drain from country shower competently and efficiently?

Where to drain the water from the summer shower in the country?

Equally important in design summer shower drain for water. The easiest way is to connect the drain with a special gutter if it is located on the site. A tray made of galvanized steel should be installed at the base of the summer shower. sheet metal. The drip tray will prevent soil erosion under the shower.

There are several options for where to drain the water from the shower in the country: you can connect the drain to the central sewer, divert water into the drainage pit, there are other ways.

Before you make a shower drain in the country, if the pallet is located directly on the ground, you need to dig a small recess in the place where the building will be located. The pit should be covered with rubble, stones or completely concreted. Before concreting, this recess must be covered with roofing material so that the earth does not get wet. The pallet should be installed on, which can be used as large stones or other improvised materials.

Then it is necessary to connect the pallet to the gutter using a pipe laid in a trench. Sometimes a do-it-yourself shower drain in the country can be done together with a soapy water collector located outside the shower. Its volume must be at least 200 liters. Not far from the summer shower, you should dig an ordinary hole. Its walls must be strengthened, otherwise they can collapse very quickly during operation. It is better to make the bottom and walls of the collector concrete, then the water will not be absorbed into the soil, and erode it.

It is possible to arrange a septic tank for an outdoor shower, but it should not be located directly under the shower stall itself, because due to large volumes water, it will begin to fill with soapy water, and it will work worse. All this can lead to the destruction of the soil, and then the foundation of the summer shower. In order to preserve the soil and the structure itself, a drain for an outdoor shower must be built a few meters from the shower stall, and placed next to the drainage. The drain from the summer shower should be on a slope so that it goes towards the drainage tank or trench.

A do-it-yourself drain bed for a summer shower is recommended to be laid out with a waterproof layer using pvc film, which can be replaced with roofing felt or simply run concrete screed with a gutter reinforced with a metal mesh.

It is not recommended to use clay for the construction of a water-resistant drain layer, since over time it can erode and fill the drainage ditch. The drain must be constructed in such a way that it is ventilated. In this case, there will be no problems with unpleasant odors.

How to make a drain from a country shower based on a drainage well

How to make a summer shower drain the most in a simple way? The simplest drain for not too polluted water from an outdoor shower can be done on the basis of a drainage well. It is best to build it from an old steel barrel with a volume of 200 liters. The barrel should be buried in the ground.

To prevent the barrel from being pushed out of the ground in winter, it is recommended to install a special underground anchor that will prevent it from being pushed out. To do this, you need to cut the fourth part of the barrel with petals and bend them outward towards the bottom of the barrel. After its installation, these steel petals should be covered with a mixture of crushed stone and sand.

When the petals are cut out, you need to make drainage holes in a checkerboard pattern over the entire surface of the walls of the barrel using an angle cutting machine. Such work can be performed only in goggles and thick leather gloves.

In the bottom of the barrel should be cut round hole, and then insert the sewer pipe into it, treating the inside of the barrel with silicone sealant. Holding the pipe, you need to carefully pull on it coupling. Subsequently, the main drain pipe will be attached to it.

The barrel must be placed with the petals down and carefully wrapped with geotextile, which is a special fabric that allows liquid to pass through, but retains soil particles inside the barrel.

Geotextiles can be secured using synthetic twine. Then the barrel should be placed on a separate sheet of geotextile and wrap its edges behind the petals of the barrel. It remains only to dig a hole for the barrel with a diameter slightly larger than its own, lower the barrel into it and fill the hole with a mixture of rubble and sand. It turns out the simplest drain for a country shower in the form of a drainage well from an old steel barrel.

Such a drain can be supplemented with a septic tank in the form of a blind well, in which the water will settle and be processed by bacteria. Then the water will go into the drain, and the sediment will fall to the bottom. The overflow pipe should be arranged in such a way that liquid flows into it from the average height of the sump volume, where there are few suspended particles.

For water from a summer shower, 1-2 stages of purification will be enough. She will be saturated necessary elements, therefore it is allowed to be used for watering decorative garden plants. Instead of a drainage system, a septic tank can be supplemented with a storage pit.

For better work such a structure at the inlet of the drain pipe, it is recommended to place a fine mesh filter.

You should not place the drain of the summer shower in the country next to perennials with deep root system. The roots can easily penetrate the pipes, forming plexuses there and blocking the cross section of the pipes.

For a summer shower intended for 2-3 people, it is quite enough to arrange only a drainage ditch into which it is necessary to bury a sewer pipe large diameter by making holes in it. In addition, it should be wrapped in geotextile to prevent soil from clogging the holes. From above, the drainage ditch must be covered with sand, and then covered with soil.

Waste water from the summer shower can be diverted to drain hole, the depth of which should be about 2 m. In order for its walls not to crumble, it is recommended to lay 6-8 old car tires with a diameter of 1 m. They will give the system rigidity.

A sewer pipe for draining used water from a summer shower must be inserted into a pre-cut hole between the 3rd and 4th tires. To prevent water from stagnating, holes should be made along the sides of the tires.

If it is supposed to use a shower in cool weather, then it is recommended to lay the drain pipe into the ground to a depth of 1-1.2 m. From above, the pit must be covered by creating an overlap of dense material.

This way of creating a drainage system from old tires or an inverted barrel is more suitable for a summer shower, which is used by no more than 2-3 people. With economical use of water, such drain system can last quite a long time, especially with sandy soil.

Not only helps to save money, but is also much more useful for garden plantings than tap water. Today we will see how from an unsightly metal or plastic barrel to make an aesthetic and very convenient addition to your dacha.

To you will be required:
- A barrel with a tightly closed (or even better screwed) lid;
- Perforator;
- Drill with a diameter of 2.5 cm (for the diameter of the faucet inlet plus a layer of sealant);
- A faucet with a diameter of 1.9-2 cm (for example, a boiler valve; brass is optimal for these operating conditions);
- A tube of transparent silicone sealant;
- Brass nipple-adapter for pipes with a diameter for the diameter of the crane - 1.9-2 cm;
- 2 plastic "female" adapters for pipes for tap diameter - 1.9-2 cm;

1 plastic cap-plug, same diameter;

Hole saw with a diameter of 7.6 cm;
- 30 cm window insect screen (it is tough and stronger);
- Scissors;
- 5 cinder blocks or wall blocks;
- Level;
- 30 pointed fence boards (each about 90 cm high);
- About 4.5 liters of a mixture of exterior paint and primer (or a commercial composition with similar properties - 2-in-1);
- Roller for paint;
- About 140 m of twine;
- 4 cords about 61 cm long with a bungee mount (or any equivalent, for example, a strap for securing a load with hooks at both ends);
- A plastic pipe-accordion (optional - it is most convenient to arrange a drain from the gutter with it).

Adviсe:

If you intend to water fruits / vegetables and edible herbs (and, in principle, in order not to poison the soil in your area and not only), choose barrels from food contents so that there are no toxic substances in the water later (and they often remain, even if you try to wash the barrel very thoroughly from the inside);

It is most convenient to take barrels with an already inserted spout-drain in the lid;

Prepare and clear the area near the drain for the barrel in advance and clean the drain itself so that the water is as clean as possible; decide whether you will cut the existing drain pipe or remove it completely and run a new accordion pipe straight from the gutter;

Always keep the lid of the barrel closed so that children and pets, insects, stray birds do not climb inside and coarse dirt does not get inside;

The rainwater accumulated in the barrel is suitable for plants, but it is in no way intended for people and animals, neither for drinking, nor - in principle - for washing!

1. We do proper drain in a barrel. If you correctly position the drain-faucet in the barrel, then you can connect to it a hose that is not too long (otherwise the “pressure” of water may not be enough) for the convenience of watering the city. So, we drill a hole in the barrel at a distance of about 12-13 cm from the bottom with a drill with a diameter of 2.5 cm. If there is a bend in your barrel from below, drill right above the bend! We remove all excess plastic from the hole.

2. On the thread right next to the faucet, generously apply silicone sealant, screw the faucet directly with sealant into drilled hole. It may take a little effort to do this.

3. We make a drainage hole. It depends on you exactly where it will be located, but it is optimal to hide it somewhere in the back, between the barrel and the wall, so that it is not visible. On the other hand, you don't want water to undermine/erode the foundation of your house, so decide based on your specific conditions. In any case, place the start of the drain approximately 7.6 cm below the top edge of the drum. The hole is drilled with the same drill. Then we also cover the threads of the adapter nipple with silicone and screw the nipple into a new hole. Outside, the nipple can be closed with a cap-plug so that bugs do not climb inside and dirt does not get in during bad weather. Or you can hermetically attach a hose to the nipple, then take the opposite end of the hose to where it is best to drain excess water on site during rain.

4. The thread on the drain inside the barrel is again covered with sealant. Now we screw one of the adapter adapters onto it inside the barrel. When doing this, have a second person help you by holding the drain out so that the nipple remains completely static. Do the same from the inside of the barrel with a tap thread.

5. Making filters. Thanks to them, the barrel, faucet and drain will not only not be clogged with rubbish from the gutter (and not only), but insects will not get inside, and the water used will be cleaner and the chance that the water will bloom will decrease.

If the lid already has a drain spout, there is probably a filter inside it in one form or another, so you can immediately proceed to connecting the accordion pipe coming from the gutter to the spout. If not, draw on the lid at approximately the same distance from each other 3 holes with a diameter of 7.6 cm, preferably as close to the center as possible (just do not leave too thin bridges between the holes so that the lid lasts longer). Further circular saw cut out these holes. In the picture, the holes were not cut, but used drainer in the lid of the barrel.

Continued in the second part of the article:

Someone struggles with abundant runoff water on a site on a slope, someone carefully collects rainwater for a vegetable garden, while others simply want to divert stormwater from the foundation of the house.

The most simple system a drainage system is a drain, it directs all rainwater from the roof to the ground.


Instead of a traditional gutter, gutter chains, which you can do yourself, do the same job well - this, in comparison with drainpipe, easy and inexpensive.

Working with power tools garden plot, protect the connection points from rain and water with a disposable polymer box (for example, in which semi-finished products are sold), by making two cutouts for wires in its walls. Such a connection is not afraid of dirt, wet grass, or even rain.

Traditionally, gardeners collect rainwater for irrigation.

Nowadays, water is gradually becoming more expensive, and if you have small garden with a garden, hot summer water consumption can be considerable. Therefore, at a minimum, rainwater collection is needed for irrigation.

You can slightly improve the usual barrel for water: at the bottom we will add an outlet for garden hose, from above we lower the hose for overflow, and we will lead the drain itself directly into the barrel. To do this, it is more convenient to use a flexible module for the drain.

Rain water collection

When it rains often, then everything is simple - I bought a couple of containers and use it to your health.

General principle of rainwater harvesting:

Legend:

• 1 - debris filter,
• 2 - water supply to the tank and air separation,
• 3 - float switch of the pump 7,
• 4 - drainage overflow into the drainage pit 5,
• 6 - water level meter (optional),
• 7, 8, 9 - Appliances and the pump
• 10 - return of "gray" water to the storage tank.

Yes, "gray" water (for example, from under the shower) can be equated to rainwater and reused in the process water supply system. No bathroom or washing machine they won't be harmed at all.

Of course, there are gigantic containers of 10,000 liters (ten m3) and more. But they cost...

Tire well.

Another option for a home-made storage tank is the same pond, but covered. So, on sale there are special films for ponds. Your task is different in that you need to make the pond deeper, leave room for the roof boards in the ground, and cover the roof with earth (or bags of sawdust if you want to look under the cover).

A more expensive and longer lasting option, but much more durable, is to cement the dug hole in a thick layer reinforced concrete. Here the procedure is simple - formwork, pouring, exposure - and that's it, you can use it. It is worth considering the technological holes in advance, if any, so as not to drill concrete later.

The third, even more expensive, but even faster durable option - concrete rings. There are up to 2 meters in diameter; bottom separates from top rubber gasket. At the bottom - a concrete cover. If soils allow, you can make at least 20 meters deep.

Another problem with rainwater accumulation is debris clogging drains, gutters and pumps. Garbage is dust, branches, volatile parts of plants such as seeds. Especially "dangerous" are maple seeds (lionfish), which can easily clog the widest spillway.

One way to fight steel mesh. The other is a special grid, like this one:

Another difficult moment with the collection of rainwater is the overflow of the tank. Usually weirs are located near places where water flows further on its business without causing trouble. And when water overflows from the tank, it can flow out to the wrong place. Therefore, you can use the following overflow system:

It takes effort to do it, but defense is also important. And you can buy a ready-made valve.

The easiest way is to put storage barrels under the gutters of the house.

The system looks something like this (if the pipe enters the tank, the water does not splash):

It is important here that the connecting pipes are thick enough (thicker than 1 inch), otherwise the water simply does not have time to flow from barrel to barrel.

In the figure, the connection of barrels is on top. It is better to do it on the bottom so that the second barrel has time to fill on a par with the first.

Clear gutter, clogged with foliage, you can use a hook attached to a stick. The hook is best made from a steel strip or hard wire.

If you just need to divert rainwater from the foundation of the house, then you can make a simple drainage: a shallow trench with sand and pebbles will reliably drain excess water by 3-4 m.


If on your suburban area the groundwater level is quite high - 50 cm, then this type of drainage will not suit you. In addition, for clay area add gravel to the bottom.


Planted in the rain garden wild plants, usually they calmly endure a large number of moisture, and can grow in dry conditions. For a new flower garden, we mulch plantings with heavy mulch - needles, etc., so that the water does not carry it away.


In the rain garden, you can plant not only herbs and flowers, but also shrubs, which are best planted at the edge of the inflow of water - this way they will slow down the flow of water and prevent smaller plants from washing away.

It is not enough to bring water into the house, after use it needs to be put somewhere. It’s hard to take out buckets, and it’s somehow pointless: water comes into the house by itself, and then it is taken out on foot. At least elementary sewerage is needed for a house or a summer residence. The option to simply remove the pipe from the house and drain the water to the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look good, and bad smell from this puddle or pit is practically guaranteed. What to do?
So, we will need: an old metal or plastic barrel, a certain amount of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably PVC 110mm), a tee, a branch, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium fraction crushed stone, a shovel and a few hours of our precious time.
We choose a place for our drainage well. Preferably, no closer than 5 meters from the house, no closer than 20-25 meters from a well or well and downstream of them downstream of groundwater. We dig a hole with a diameter greater than the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m (diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height 0.9 m, volume 0.2 cubic meters) and a depth of about 1.5 m (preferably deeper). We make holes in the walls of the barrel, if metal, then with a grinder, if plastic, then with a hacksaw for wood with a small tooth. We make a hole for the incoming sewer pipe in the wall, not far from the bottom of the barrel. We fill at least 20 cm of gravel at the bottom of the pit and put the barrel upside down, orienting the hole under the pipe towards the house.
Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, leading it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation, or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe, the water flowing through it will warm it perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we put a tee with a small piece of pipe coming out above the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and let air out of the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We lead the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with gravel to the entire height of the barrel. At the bottom of the barrel, it is advisable to put some non-rotting material (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the pit with soil, carefully tamping it down. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally leading the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. A piece of pipe sticking out of the ground near a buried barrel can be equipped with plastic fungus, which is difficult, but can be found in stores.
And now the nuances.
This is an exclusively drainage sewer for the house, it will not cope with fecal effluents, it cannot be cleaned or serviced in any way, and it is not intended for this. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or from the bath. The same device has drainage wells from a septic tank.
The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: the depth of soil freezing + the height of the barrel + the height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region: 1.2m + 0.9m + 0.2m = 2.3m). But digging so deep is hard and not necessary. Drains also heat the barrel.

If the soil at the installation site of the sewer is clayey, and the water from the barrel leaves slowly, then the sewer for the house can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer, and preferably a drainage pipe. This pipe may lead water to a drainage ditch at the boundary of the site, or it may not lead anywhere, ending in a dead end. The task of this pipe is to remove excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of ​​water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone pillow and is also covered with crushed stone, and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be spoiled with a certain number of holes in the lower part to improve the flow of water, making it look like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is led into a drainage ditch.

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1. To be honest, I'm a little surprised that someone's sewer can freeze. Sewer pipes, in principle, cannot freeze, there ...

Reviews (38) on "The simplest drainage sewage system for a summer residence."

thanks for the useful article and adequate answers. tomorrow I’ll start doing it. I hope the pipe will not freeze in our Transbaikalia. Of course, I agree with you that you need to make a significant slope.

1. Depends on the distance and features of the problem being solved. It is better to make the 110th PVC, it is more reliable, although more expensive. At distances up to 5 (five) meters, you can make the 50th (fifty dollars), but, preferably, also PVC (not always available in stores) - as more durable and frost-resistant. This is still an external sewage system, not an internal one.

1. And what can happen to the 50th pipe? Silt up.-get fat-zamylitsya? Or will it crash hard?
2. Red (I mean for external wiring) or gray (for internal wiring), since it will be used only in summer? The store said that it is better to look for black (Soviet) -PVD -polyethylene high pressure. What do you say?
3. I have a plot with a slope. Along the fence just down the slope. I realized that it is better to dig in.
4. Soil - loam. Where are they usually sent? rain water from the roof? To another hole?

1. Answers Vladimir.
   1. And not only that, Vladimir, especially in loam, even on the surface. For example, it can be bent by swelling of the soil so that the slope in some area is broken. The consequences are the same, it will clog in general ... If it doesn’t break.
   This also happens with a 110-pipe, but much less often, of course, subject to the elementary laying rules.
   2. For "internal wiring" it will definitely not work. Need PVC for outdoor sewerage. For internal sewerage usually use PP. You won't dig it up for the winter...
   A “black pipe” is usually a HDPE pipe, not a PVD pipe (I haven’t heard anything about PVD pipes until now, maybe I don’t have much experience). In principle, you can do it, if you find it, only there may be problems with joining pipes with bends (turns) and leaving the house. If you are not a "specialist", then it is better not to experiment.
   4. Rain runoff is usually directed to the drainage system around the house, and it brings them to the drainage ditch. Other pipes are used there - "drainage", corrugated plastic pipes with perforation and protection with geotextile.
   In loamy soil for house drains, it is imperative to make at least a small irrigation field (small drainage system just for that). Because loamy soils do not absorb water well. On the other hand, if you are “on arrivals”, then the usual crushed stone dressing around the barrel (simplified drainage system) should be enough for a long time.

   Of course, you can bring rainwater into this sewer system, but ... Then there will be a high probability of damage to the pipes by autumn and spring waters during “zero crossings”, because you do not control the volume and composition (maybe already with ice) of these waters. Therefore they do drainage pipes perforated, i.e. "leaky" so that the water can go away by itself. And if we lay drainage pipes instead of sewer pipes, then these holes will quickly become clogged with house drains (“silt up and get fat”), and will not work. This is not to mention possible unpleasant odors along all 20 meters of the pipe. So that better sewerage separately, and rainwater drainage separately.

Thanks for answers. I will think.
And the last question:
It is impossible for me to go outside through the basement (floor slabs and 60 cm concrete blocks on the foundation).
I will just make holes in the side of the log house and then go on with external wiring. Accordingly, I do not want to make holes at 110. I will go out 50. 110 PVC will go along the ground.
And how to connect the exit through the log house and PVC-110 according to outer wall Houses? This is three meters in a straight line and all five with turns.

1. I didn't quite understand the question, Vladimir. Inside the house, you put in fifty kopecks for the inside, i.e. PP pipe. You let her out into the street through the wall of the log house, just carefully “foam” the gaps, there should be no drafts. And then the transition to the 110th PVC, and you are already driving it. From the exit from the log house to the 110th PVC, you can start up the same fifty kopecks, only not far. For example, lower it with turns down to the foundation (it’s hard to say without imagining a possible route), then an oblique tee with a revision, just in case, into which to insert an eccentric transition from fifty dollars to a hundred. And I went 110th.
   In principle, it is permissible to put fifty kopecks on the street “in plain sight” (if I understand correctly, this is the problem), but it is desirable that this is also a PVC pipe, otherwise there may be the same problems as “under the fence”. Yes, and you need to fasten it well and carefully, making gaps for thermal expansion. Fifty PVC PVC is sold, but not everywhere, you have to look.
   And general advice, just in case, avoid right angles. Make them, if necessary, prefabricated, for example, 45 plus 45, and inserts between them. Right angles clog well, but are difficult to clean.

Yes, you got it right. It's just that not a single seller in stores (he went around about five) did not meet PVC-fifty. I will search further. From the exit from the log house to the location of the 110 pipe, I need to walk five fifty meters along the wall (check in the garage from below). We need to find PVC.
But the old Soviet black pipes that were laid earlier in apartments (50) are not PVC by any chance? They were still standing cisterns hung above the head

1. No, Vladimir, “old Soviet black pipes” are polypropylene, very rarely polyethylene low pressure, just the dye was different. Look in specialized stores, at construction sites, where they sell professional 4 and 6-meter sewer pipes, it is possible without sockets. I'll show you how to connect them, it's not difficult. The Internet has tips for everything. Look in the store at: Ufa, Oktyabrya Avenue, 97, All Instruments store. They promise three-meter 50 mm PVC for 202 rubles, however, for electricians. In extreme cases, you can also put 50 mm internal PP pipes, you just need to look after them. Check in the spring.

Thanks for the advice!
I know this store and have been there. This is an online store. All goods must be ordered and received upon arrival of the goods. I will definitely check out their website.
Only in passing the question: I will finally find fifty dollars pvc pipes. But all sorts of turns and stuff also need PVC? This is probably unrealistic. I'll look online and on their website.
Thanks again for your attention.

1. Hello again, Vladimir.
   I ask your forgiveness. Having “surfed” the Internet in search of a fifty-kopeck piece of PVC, I really discovered that these pipes are only in St. Petersburg and Moscow, and not always of local production. I live almost in St. Petersburg. Therefore, well, put fifty dollars on PP, just look not for standard-cheap PP 1.8 mm, but 2.0 or 2.2 mm, at least some margin of safety. In principle, in non-responsible sections of the sewerage system, a fifty-kopeck piece of PP is installed without thinking about the consequences. You just have to keep an eye on this site, as I already wrote, mainly in the spring, at the opening of the summer season.
   The PVC I found in Ufa are unlikely to fit, they are for protection electrical wires. Their wall thickness is only 1.5 mm. Why the search engine gave them to me as a sewer (!), Is a mystery to me. So do from home to the fence fifty dollars of PP. This is not possible, but if it is very necessary, then ...

Thank you for this article for the tips. I just had a situation that I bought myself a multistage pump. The plumber came and installed it. Everything worked like clockwork, no where not dug. When I got tired the next day and looked into the mine, there was water there and the water almost flooded the pump. And if I had a water outlet, then this would not have happened. You will need to redo your mine.

Making a septic tank with your own hands from barrels is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to provide wastewater treatment. Its manufacture does not require much time, and the materials are available. At the same time, a treatment plant of this type is quite effective and gives high quality removal of impurities.

In septic tanks of this type wastewater are cleaned mainly by mechanical means:

• Partial clarification during the precipitation of the largest particles of impurities occurs mainly in the first of the three tanks connected in series.
• Smaller inclusions settle in the second tank, where water flows from the top of the first barrel.
• At the third barrel, the “native” bottom is usually removed, and when installing a septic tank in the lower part, sand, gravel or expanded clay is backfilled. This material acts as a filter.

Passing through the ground will achieve optimal results, but this method is not suitable for areas with close to the surface groundwater. To ensure sanitary safety in such cases, drainage of treated effluents through filtration fields is organized. Such structures are perforated pipes insulated with geotextile, which exit the third barrel at an angle of 45° to each other and are located in trenches parallel to the surface.

The use of septic tanks from barrels

It is advisable to build a septic tank in the country with your own hands from barrels in the following cases:

• as a temporary structure at the stage of building a house before the sewer system is organized,
• with a minimum amount of drains, typical for periodic visits to a suburban area without permanent residence.

Such requirements are due to the small volume of tanks. The capacity of large barrels is usually 250 liters. therefore, the volume of the septic tank from the three tanks will be 750 liters. At the same time, under the terms sanitary norms the septic tank should hold three daily "servings".

It is advisable to build a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands also as a separate treatment plant, For example, for shower or bath.

The advantages of such structures are:

• low cost (used containers are often used),
• simplicity of device and installation,
• smaller volume earthworks due to the small volume of tanks.

Pros and cons of the materials used

Do-it-yourself sewerage in the country house from a barrel can be arranged using plastic or metal containers. Usually use the most affordable option However, if there is a choice, the pros and cons of each option should be taken into account before making a decision.

Advantages:

• light weight, easy to transport and install,
• ease of making holes for pipes,
• absolute water resistance, eliminating the possibility of soil contamination,
• resistance to corrosion from water or aggressive substances that may be contained in detergents.

Disadvantages:

• due to their light weight, plastic barrels require reliable anchoring to the foundation in order to prevent them from floating up during a flood, which can lead to destruction sewer system,
• due to the plasticity of the material, there is a danger of squeezing the soil reservoirs in the cold season.

iron barrels

Advantages of a septic tank from metal barrels:

• high strength,
• structural rigidity,
• water resistance provided the integrity of the walls and bottom.

Disadvantages:

• resistance to corrosion requiring performance waterproofing coating and periodic check his condition,
• somewhat more difficult process making holes, requiring the use of power tools.

It should be noted that more often homemade septic tank from barrels are performed using plastic containers.

Materials and tools

Before you make a septic tank from a barrel, in order to avoid unplanned interruptions in the process of work, it is better to prepare everything you need in advance.

Main components:

• metal or plastic barrels,
• sewer pipes (most often used with a diameter of 110 mm), the total length of which is 1-2 meters longer than the length of the main,
• tees corresponding to the pipe diameter,
• sewer covers for barrels,
• pipes for ventilation (in some cases, sewer pipes can be used),
• heads for ventilation (purchased or self-made protective canopies),
• corner fittings,
• flanges, couplings.

Mounting materials:

• glue for PVC (if plastic containers are used),
• sealant,
• cement,
• sand,
• rubble,
• fastening cables or clamps.

Instruments:

• Bulgarian,
• shovel,
• electric mixer.

Installation of a septic tank

Do-it-yourself sewerage from barrels requires certain preparatory work before starting installation. We will consider the option of making a septic tank from three barrels, but it remains the same for a septic tank from two tanks.

Technological holes are made in each barrel.

In each of their barrels, in addition, holes are made at the upper end (or lids, which are often supplied with tanks for ease of cleaning) for ventilation pipes.

In each tank, the inlet is located 10 cm above the outlet.

Important: Making a septic tank from iron barrels with your own hands, metal barrels for sewerage from the inside and outside are covered with an anti-corrosion compound.

The pit for the septic tank breaks out of the barrels in such a way that when installed on each side of any tank there is a gap of 25 cm. The bottom of the pit is covered with rubble or a sand cushion is arranged.

• For pouring the foundation, a stepped formwork is installed. When placing barrels with a successive decrease in level (each is 10 cm below the previous one), the volume of the tanks will be fully used, which is very important with a small capacity of this type of septic tanks. If the removal of the purified liquid is provided through the bottom filter of the third barrel, the last tank is installed directly on the rubble, without a foundation.
• After pouring the foundation at the stage of solidification of the solution, rings or hooks are installed in it, to which clamps will cling to fix the containers. Just in case, it is better to “anchor” not only plastic, but also iron tanks.

If the removal of drains will be carried out through the filtration field, then the trenches for laying corrugated pipes can be dug at this stage.

After the foundation has gained strength, you can begin to install and fasten the tanks, install pipes and seal the joints at their entrance. Experts recommend not using silicone for these purposes, preferring other types of sealants, such as epoxy.

The trenches of the filtration field are covered with geotextile, and after laying the perforated pipes, the material is wrapped with overlapping edges.

A fully assembled septic tank from barrels is covered with soil. plastic containers At this time, it is better to fill with water to avoid deformation. In the process of backfilling, the soil is periodically gently tamped.

In a separate article of the site, it is presented with it that it will be easier to create a treatment plant, but it will still not be possible to do without loading equipment.

Installation of a sewer system for a private house. Site selection, internal and external communications.

Types of plastic drainage wells presented. Scope of application and installation.

Nuances of construction

When mounting septic tanks from barrels in the country with your own hands, you should take into account some of the nuances and rules:

Rules for choosing the volume and installation location of septic tanks

The daily rate of water consumption is 200 liters per person, and the septic tank must contain drains. Collected within 72 hours or 3 days. Thus, subject to permanent residence, a three-chamber septic tank from 250-liter barrels is only suitable for one person. Therefore, septic tanks of this type are used only for temporary residence or wastewater treatment from one point (for example, from a bathhouse). In most cases, they try in some way to increase the possibility of septic tanks, therefore, among the treatment facilities from barrels, there are practically no two-chamber options (they have too little volume).

It is important to observe sanitary requirements regarding the permissible distances from the septic tank to certain objects. For example, the distance from the source drinking water must be at least 50 meters. garden plants and fruit trees must be located at least 3 meters from the treatment plant. The distance to the road is at least 5 meters.