Making a septic tank from barrels with your own hands. How to drain water from a frozen barrel with your own hands Make a drain well in the country from a barrel

Usually, before the onset of cold weather, the barrels are drained and removed to a secluded place, but here we are talking about large metal barrels with a volume of one cubic meter, installed under the roof gutters. Before the onset of cold weather, the barrels are usually already emptied and a small amount of water that gets into them during freezing will not bring harm. But the lingering autumn and a powerful cyclone filled two barrels completely in a week, after the bad weather came very coldy and the threat of losing large barrels from breaking through the ice became real. Attempts to somehow tilt a barrel frozen to the ground weighing more than a ton with their own hands did not lead to anything. But there is always a way out. If you remember physics and communicating vessels, then you can make a simple siphon and empty the barrel.

Instructions on how to drain water

1. We will need a piece of hose 2-3 meters long, the most affordable will be a corrugated plastic hose. The hose must be without damage to the walls and the absence of plugs in it from foreign objects and ice.

2. Attach a load to one end of the hose with your own hands so that the hose, when immersed in the barrel, is closer to the bottom of the barrel.

3. We cut a hole in the ice of the barrel with an ax. The end of the hose with the load must pass through the hole.

4. Lower the hose into the hole. There is a secret here. We lower almost the entire hose under water and observe the appearance of water at the level of the hole in the hose. then with a sharp movement we pull the hose and immediately lower it below the water level - water will begin to flow through the resulting siphon. If pad size allows thumb, you may plug the end of the hose and work more slowly. The main thing is not to wet your hands at -15 ° C.

5. We lower the hose below the bottom of the barrel and wait for the water to drain. Then you can either close the barrel from above or overturn. A small amount of remaining water will not damage the barrel.

6. If several drums need to be drained, the hose should be moved immediately to the next drum to avoid ice blockage. It was the rapidly forming ice that made it difficult to fill the hose in the video with water.

This method of draining water is a full-fledged life hack and is also suitable for barrels of a smaller volume, because when a metal barrel with water is overturned, the latter can be deformed, and the plastic barrel may crack. There is another beneficial effect. If your area is restless, then a barrel of ice along the walls and an ice plug becomes a very difficult object to move before a strong thaw.

Making a septic tank with your own hands from barrels is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to ensure cleaning Wastewater. Its manufacture does not require much time, and the materials are available. At the same time, a treatment plant of this type is quite effective and gives high quality removal of impurities.

In septic tanks of this type, wastewater is cleaned mainly by mechanical methods:

Partial clarification during the precipitation of the largest particles of impurities occurs mainly in the first of the three tanks connected in series.
Smaller inclusions settle in the second tank, where water flows from the top of the first barrel.
At the third barrel, the “native” bottom is usually removed, and when installing a septic tank in the lower part, sand, gravel or expanded clay is backfilled. This material acts as a filter.

Passing through the ground will achieve optimal results, but this method is not suitable for areas with groundwater close to the surface. To ensure sanitary safety in such cases, drainage of treated effluents through filtration fields is organized. Such structures are perforated pipes insulated with geotextile, which exit the third barrel at an angle of 45° to each other and are located in trenches parallel to the surface.

The use of septic tanks from barrels

It is advisable to build a septic tank in the country with your own hands from barrels in the following cases:

as a temporary structure at the stage of building a house before the sewer system is organized,
with a minimum number of drains, typical for periodic visits suburban area without permanent residence.

Such requirements are due to the small volume of tanks. The capacity of large barrels is usually 250 liters. therefore, the volume of the septic tank from the three tanks will be 750 liters. At the same time, according to the conditions of sanitary standards, the septic tank must contain three daily "portions".

It is advisable to build a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands also as a separate treatment plant, For example, for shower or bath.

The advantages of such structures are:

low cost (used containers are often used),
simplicity of device and installation,
smaller volume earthworks due to the small volume of tanks.

Pros and cons of the materials used

Do-it-yourself sewerage in the country house from a barrel can be arranged using plastic or metal containers. Usually use the most affordable option However, if there is a choice, the pros and cons of each option should be taken into account before making a decision.

Advantages:

light weight, easy to transport and install,
ease of making holes for pipes,
absolute water resistance, eliminating the possibility of soil contamination,
resistance to corrosion from water or aggressive substances that may be contained in detergents.

Disadvantages:

due to their light weight, plastic barrels require reliable anchoring to the foundation in order to prevent them from floating up during a flood, which can lead to destruction sewer system,
due to the plasticity of the material, there is a danger of squeezing the soil reservoirs in the cold season.

iron barrels

Advantages of a septic tank from metal barrels:

high strength,
structural rigidity,
water resistance provided the integrity of the walls and bottom.

Disadvantages:

resistance to corrosion requiring performance waterproofing coating and periodic check his condition,
somewhat more difficult process making holes, requiring the use of power tools.

It should be noted that more often homemade septic tank from barrels are performed using plastic containers.

Materials and tools

Before you make a septic tank from a barrel, in order to avoid unplanned interruptions during the work, it is better to prepare everything you need in advance.

Main components:

metal or plastic barrels,
sewer pipes (most often used with a diameter of 110 mm), the total length of which is 1-2 meters longer than the length of the main,
tees corresponding to the pipe diameter,
sewer covers for barrels,
pipes for ventilation (in some cases, sewer pipes can be used),
heads for ventilation (purchased or self-made protective canopies),
corner fittings,
flanges, couplings.

Mounting materials:

glue for PVC (if plastic containers are used),
sealant,
cement,
sand,
rubble,
fastening cables or clamps.

Instruments:

Bulgarian,
shovel,
electric mixer.

Installation of a septic tank

Do-it-yourself sewerage from barrels requires certain preparatory work before starting installation. We will consider the option of making a septic tank from three barrels, but it remains the same for a septic tank from two tanks.

Technological holes are made in each barrel.

In each of their barrels, in addition, holes are made at the upper end (or lids, which are often supplied with tanks for ease of cleaning) for ventilation pipes.

In each tank, the inlet is located 10 cm above the outlet.

Important: Making a septic tank from iron barrels with your own hands, metal barrels for sewerage from the inside and outside are covered with an anti-corrosion compound.

The pit for the septic tank breaks out of the barrels in such a way that when installed on each side of any tank there is a gap of 25 cm. The bottom of the pit is covered with rubble or a sand cushion is arranged.

For pouring the foundation, a stepped formwork is installed. When placing barrels with a successive decrease in level (each is 10 cm below the previous one), the volume of the tanks will be fully used, which is very important with a small capacity of this type of septic tank. If the removal of the purified liquid is provided through the bottom filter of the third barrel, the last tank is installed directly on the rubble, without a foundation.
After pouring the foundation at the stage of solidification of the solution, rings or hooks are installed in it, to which clamps will cling to fix the containers. Just in case, it is better to “anchor” not only plastic, but also iron tanks.

If the drainage will be carried out through the filtration field, then trenches for laying corrugated pipes can be dug at this stage.

After the foundation has gained strength, you can begin to install and fasten the tanks, install pipes and seal the joints at their entrance. Experts recommend not using silicone for these purposes, preferring other types of sealants, such as epoxy.

The trenches of the filtration field are covered with geotextile, and after laying the perforated pipes, the material is wrapped with overlapping edges.

A fully assembled septic tank from barrels is covered with soil. plastic containers At this time, it is better to fill with water to avoid deformation. In the process of backfilling, the soil is periodically gently tamped.

In a separate article of the site, it is presented with it that it will be easier to create a treatment plant, but it will still not be possible to completely do without loading equipment.

Installation of a sewer system for a private house. Site selection, internal and external communications.

Types of plastic drainage wells are presented. Scope of application and installation.

Nuances of construction

When mounting septic tanks from barrels in the country with your own hands, you should take into account some of the nuances and rules:

Rules for choosing the volume and installation location of septic tanks

The daily rate of water consumption is 200 liters per person, and the septic tank must contain drains. Collected within 72 hours or 3 days. Thus, subject to permanent residence, a three-chamber septic tank from 250-liter barrels is only suitable for one person. Therefore, septic tanks of this type are used only for temporary residence or wastewater treatment from one point (for example, from a bathhouse). In most cases, they try in some way to increase the possibility of septic tanks, therefore, among the treatment facilities from barrels, there are practically no two-chamber options (they have too little volume).

It is important to observe sanitary requirements regarding the permissible distances from the septic tank to certain objects. For example, the distance from the source drinking water must be at least 50 meters. garden plants and fruit trees must be located at least 3 meters from the treatment plant. The distance to the road is at least 5 meters.

Terms homemade pump for pouring water...

To get started, I suggest you watch a video about this homemade:

Probably many people have ever had the problem of pouring water from one vessel to another... Of course, you can simply lift and turn one vessel over another, but... this method is not always good, since the vessel can be large, that is there will be a lot of weight on the container and you simply cannot physically lift the container ...

The second way is to pour, well, for example, in circles ... But this method is also not always good, since, for example, the shape of the vessel may not allow drawing water in circles or any other circumstances ... And then the old proven the way to transfuse liquid is to take a flexible hose, lower one end of the hose into a container of water, and take the other end of the hose into the oral cavity and blow air sharply into yourself ... Pressure will be created and then water will pour out of inertia from one vessel to another until you don't pull the hose... simple physics, but... this method is not very hygienic, besides, under bad circumstances, you can even choke on water... Therefore, this method is quite dangerous...

So, let's begin...

In order to make a pump we need:
- a cap from under a bottle;
- drill and drill 8 mm;
- scissors or knife;
- "neck" of the bottle with a thread;
- flexible hose;
- a small piece of pipe ...

To begin with, remove the gasket from under the cover and cut off its edges as shown in the photo, leaving a small "tail"...

Now we carefully place the cut gasket inside the lid and twist it as shown in the photo ... Our cut gasket will serve us as a valve ...

From the other bottle we cut off the “neck” and do something like a turbo water intake ...

Now we put on a flexible hose from the other end of the pipe ...

That's all!!! Our water overflow pump is ready...

Now we lower that side of the pipe where we have the valve into the container with water, and with sharp movements up and down we build up pressure ... Water flows through the valve into the pipe and then into the hose, and from there it already pours out ...

If close to your suburban area there are no centralized sewerage and water supply networks, then for a comfortable stay in the house it is necessary to build an autonomous water supply system and a local treatment plant - a septic tank. Today we will talk about septic tanks. Thanks to them, wastewater will be disposed of in accordance with sanitary standards without harm environment. It is easier and cheaper to make a home-made treatment plant from improvised materials, for example, a septic tank from barrels. The design can be designed for any volume of drains, depending on the number of people living in the house. In our article you will find a description of the nuances of making a cleaning device from this material, and the video at the end of the article will help you understand the process more clearly.

A septic tank from a barrel can be made with your own hands from different materials. The barrel can be plastic or metal. But last option not the best, since the metal quickly corrodes in conditions of constant humidity, so the design will turn out to be short-lived. It is better to make a septic tank for small dacha from polymer containers with a volume of 200-250 liters. If many residents live in your dacha or the building can be used year-round, then the volume of containers should be even larger.

There can be many options for self-construction in the country of water supply and sewerage. So, water supply can be equipped from a well or a well, and the choice of a septic tank design depends on the characteristics of the effluents, the hydrogeological conditions at the site and the required quality of wastewater treatment. A septic tank from barrels can be:

Single chamber. This homemade septic tank is, in fact, an ordinary cesspool. It can be with or without a bottom, depending on the type of soil and the level of standing groundwater. Wastewater from the sewerage system enters the tank, where it is either pumped out by sewers as it accumulates, or filtered into the ground through a special layer of gravel and crushed stone at the bottom. Such a septic tank is suitable for a shower or bath without a toilet. The thing is that this septic tank will not harm the environment, only if fecal sewage does not get into it.

Important: structures without a bottom can only be used on sandy soils with good absorption capacity. On the clay soils drains using drainage pump after settling, they are pumped into the filtration well.

Two-chamber. A septic tank of two containers is more perfect. For a small cottage, two barrels of 200 liters are enough. Drains immediately from the sewer enter the first chamber, where they settle, as a result of which the heavy components settle to the bottom. In the second chamber, the clarified waters undergo a post-treatment process. A septic tank of two containers can be made with a bottom in both chambers or only in the first of them. Then a filtering layer is arranged at the bottom of the second chamber, and water is discharged into the ground.
Three-chamber. Most the best way- sewerage for a summer residence from three containers with a volume of 200-250 liters each. In this design, the necessary degree of wastewater treatment is achieved, which does not contradict sanitary standards. Such effluents can be discharged into the ground without the risk of environmental degradation. Drainage from the sewerage is settled in the first chamber. Then the pre-treated waters flow into the second compartment, where they are further purified by the biological method. There is also a small precipitate of small impurities. Only then the purified water enters the filtration chamber, where it is discharged through a layer at the bottom into the ground.

Requirements for a septic tank

To build an effective septic tank with your own hands from barrels, you must adhere to the following rules:

For high-quality wastewater treatment, the septic tank must be multi-chamber. As you understand, single-chamber septic tanks are contrary to sanitary standards. In a multi-chamber design, the effluents in the first compartment undergo mechanical cleaning under the action of gravitational forces, and in the second chamber, due to microorganisms, they are split organic compounds. In the last filtration chamber, the final post-treatment of the liquid takes place, and the effluents are discharged into the ground.
The septic tank from the barrel must be completely sealed, with the exception of the bottom of the last chamber. This is the only way to guarantee the safety of the entire structure.
When choosing a place for a septic tank, it is worth adhering to the standard distances. So, from the source where the water for the water supply is taken, it should be at least 15 m. It is worth retreating at least 5 m from the foundation of the house. You should not lay sewer pipes near the water supply. The septic tank should be located at a distance of 1-2 meters from roadways and parking lots.

Tip: do not place the treatment plant too far from the house, as there will be problems with observing the slope of the sewer pipes. As a result, it may turn out that they enter the treatment plant at a very great depth, so the septic tank will have to be deeply buried in the ground.

It is necessary to correctly determine the dimensions of all tanks of the treatment plant. The volume of the first chamber of the sump must be equal to the volume of the daily discharge, which is determined from the fact that one tenant consumes 200 liters of water from the water supply per day. This number must be multiplied by the number of residents and by 3 (so many days the drains are in the septic tank). As a result, we get the working volume of the septic tank. The actual volume is usually a little more, but not less.

Necessary materials

After performing preliminary calculations - determining the volume of the septic tank, the length of the sewer pipeline, the hydrogeological state of the soil, the depth of freezing, the dimensions of the pit and the required slope - you can begin to build a septic tank from plastic barrels.

For work you will need the following materials:

Two or three barrels of polymer material volume of 200 liters or more. In addition, you will need a plastic corrugated pipe or another barrel for the well.
To close the barrels on top, you should take three sewer covers (also made of plastic).
Pipes for sewerage with a diameter of 110 mm. The length must be determined from the distance from the house to the septic tank plus a couple of meters of stock.
Ventilation pipe with a cap with a diameter of 110 mm. The length of the pipe is not more than 1.5 m.
Angle fittings and tees for the diameter of the pipes used.
Flanges and couplings.
Small crushed stone with a fraction of elements not more than 40 mm.
Sand.
Adhesive for joining PVC elements.
Epoxy based sealant.
Rubber seals for sealing the entry of pipes into the septic tank.
Cord and pegs.
Shovel.
Roulette.
Bulgarian.
Level.

If in your area ground water stand very high, then the bottom of the pit will have to be concreted. For this you will need cement-sand mixture, electric mixer, mixing tank, fittings and steel cables for fixing barrels at the bottom.

If the soil is loose, then the walls of the pit will need to be strengthened wooden formwork or steel fine mesh. To insulate the treatment plant and sewer pipeline, you will need mineral wool for pipes, foam plastic or foam plastic for a sewage treatment plant.

Mounting

Before starting excavation, you need to remove from the house sewer pipe. It is from this place that you will dig a trench with a slope to the septic tank. Next, we make a septic tank from a barrel in the following sequence:

From the place where the sewer is removed from the house, we dig a trench 1 m wide to the place where the septic tank is installed. At the same time, we make the slope of the bottom of the trench taking into account 2 cm of difference for each meter of length. Under the septic tank, we dig a pit. Its dimensions must be 20 cm larger than the size of the barrels. At the bottom of the pit, we make ledges 10 cm high to install each communicating container on different depth. The first camera will be at the top.
Since the septic tank has impressive dimensions, but low weight, groundwater can easily raise the tank to the surface. To prevent this from happening, a concrete pad is made at the bottom of the pit. To do this, first knead cement-sand mortar, then at the bottom of the pit, sand cushion 10 cm high. It is leveled and rammed. After that, a reinforcing mesh with outlets for fastening the septic tank is laid at the bottom. The bottom is poured with a layer of concrete 150-200 mm high.
After the concrete pad has hardened, you can proceed with the installation of the barrels. Each barrel is mounted on a separate step so that the next container is 10 cm lower. There should be a distance of 100-150 mm between the chambers. We attach the barrels to the outlets of the reinforcement in the bottom with a steel cable.
In the first chamber, at the desired height, we cut a hole for the supply pipeline with a diameter of 110 mm. We put a rubber seal in the hole and additionally seal it with mastic. Now insert the tee into the resulting hole. Then we connect the supply sewer pipe and ventilation to it.
At a height below 100 mm from the first hole on the other side of the first barrel, we make another hole for overflow. It is also sealed rubber seal and insert the corner fitting.
We cover the first barrel with a lid and install a ventilation pipe.
Now cut a hole on the side of the second chamber and insert the corner fitting into it. We seal the hole rubber gasket. We connect two daughters with fittings with an overflow pipe.
With reverse side the second container, we make a hole at the level of the middle of the barrel to install an overflow into the third chamber. We install the cover.
The third chamber is a sealed well with an overflow hole from the second chamber. We connect the second and third chambers with a pipe. We mount the cover. If instead of the third camera will be used drainage well, then for its arrangement it is necessary to take corrugated pipe with a diameter of 1 m. An overflow hole is cut in its wall, and a gravel-sand layer 300 mm high is arranged at the bottom. It is better to lay a layer of geotextile under the layer. Through it, water will be filtered into the ground.
Backfilling of the septic tank is carried out with alternating layers of sand and concrete. After making a layer 200-300 mm thick, it is wetted with water and rammed.

Important: as the backfill is completed, the barrels must be filled with water 20-30 cm above the backfill level. This will protect the septic tank design from deformation under soil pressure.

The upper part of the treatment plant is insulated with foam plastic and backfilled. Only manhole covers and ventilation pipes should remain above the ground.

Video guide for the construction of a septic tank from barrels:

Consumption ecology. Homestead: Rainwater storage is great way using the collected rainwater to irrigate the garden, lawn or even indoor plants. To create a drive, we took plastic barrel, boards and rope - to give decorativeness.

A rainwater tank is a great way to irrigate your garden, lawn, or even houseplants. To create the drive, we took a plastic barrel, boards and a rope - to make it decorative.

Buy new plastic barrels, old ones will do just fine. The main thing is that they are not full of holes. To make the faucet we'll use to fill a watering can or attach a garden hose, measure 30 cm from the bottom of the barrel. Drill a hole using a 1" drill bit (the hole will be approximately 30mm in diameter). Use a knife to cut if necessary Seal the hole silicone sealant and insert the tube. The addition of a bottom drain with a garden hose adapter allows the barrel to be completely drained as needed, and it can also be used as a permanent hose attachment. To do this, measure 2" from the bottom and drill a 1" hole directly below the drain. Punch into 3/4" (20mm) garden hose adapter (treat with silicone sealant) and thread it into the hole using an adjustable wrench. Choose a location along the trailing edge where overflow is most comfortable, measure 2" from the bottom of the lid, and drill a 1" hole. Lubricate the hose thread adapter with silicone sealant and tighten with a wrench. In the next step, you will need an assistant. Treat three washers with silicone and the junctions of both hoses, adapters inside the barrel. Using an adjustable wrench, tighten the pipe adapters onto the threads and install the hose adapter to stiffen the assembly from the outside. Turn until it is firmly in place, but be careful not to overtighten to avoid cracking. Use a pencil to draw perpendicular lines on the cylinder head, intersecting at the center. Use the round nozzle to cut four holes, each 3 inches in diameter, centered on the drawn lines and equidistant from the center and edge of the lid. Now the rainwater barrel is functional, but the look of it is in style. wooden barrel will make your site even more attractive. Start by placing the barrel on the cinder blocks. Measure the height from the cinder block to the edge of the barrel, and add another 5 cm, then saw off the boards of the required height. Surround the barrel with fitting boards, mark the places where the nozzles are, then drill holes in the boards for them.

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