Mother bush of strawberries. How to get seedlings of garden strawberries - propagation of strawberries with a mustache. Reproduction by arcuate layering

Crocus refers to bulbous plants and is prominent representative family of iris (iris). Found in Europe, Front and Central Asia, Crimea, Azerbaijan.

Crocus is a short, narrow-leaved plant with tubular flowers. Inside unisexual flower hidden stigmas with three stamens. The flower has a bright corolla 6-parted perianth.

Crocus (saffron) is famous for having edible bulbs that are eaten after baking, boiling, however, crocus stigmas are of the greatest value, which are famous for their valuable healing properties and act as a food seasoning and dye.

300 varieties of crocuses can be divided into autumn-blooming and spring-blooming.

CROCUS (SAFRAN). LANDING.

To obtain beautiful flower, you need to know how to select bulb for planting. The bulb should be: without rot, spots, have an even color, without mechanical damage, without germinated roots on the bottom.

For planting, it is better to choose well illuminated places without stagnant water, which can contribute to the decay of the bulb. Crocuses do not like moisture: it is better for them to receive less than to experience its excess.

Basic requirements for the soil: it must be breathable and not acidic. If your garden is heavy clay soil, then it must be cultivated: add sand, peat, use fine gravel or a layer of sand as drainage. If the soil is light, apply humus, soddy soil, and apply basic fertilizer before planting.

If you have a spring-flowering variety, then plant crocus in September-October, autumn-blooming ones should be planted in July-September. The depth of planting is determined by the diameter of the bulb and should be equal to 2-3 of its diameters, and the distance between the bulbs should be at least 10 cm.

CROCUS (SAFRAN). CARE.

Crocus is able to withstand temperature to minus 18 degrees and has a positive attitude towards drought. However, this does not mean that it can not be water: just crocus needs moderate moisture. and tolerance for sub-zero temperatures it is not yet a reason to leave the bulbs planted in the winter unattended. They must be covered either with a layer of peat or foliage.

In order for a plant to develop normally, it must feed: compost soil or decomposed humus, which are brought into the ground before sowing flowers, is suitable for this.

From the moment of planting until the beginning of flowering, they are brought to the site where the flowers were planted, mineral fertilizer, where phosphorus is twice as much as potassium at the rate of 80-100 g per 1 sq. km. m. During the budding period, a second top dressing is done in the same amount, but the ratio of phosphorus and potassium is already 1: 1. And when the crocus is already in bloom, it is fed at the rate of 30-35 g per 1 sq. m in a ratio of 1:1.

Many gardeners, in the hope of getting larger flowers, dig up crocus bulbs, sort them out, removing the sick and weak, and keep them in the basement until the next planting.

CROCUS. REPRODUCTION.

Like all bulbs, crocus reproduces by baby bulbs, and besides this, also seeds.

A box with seeds formed underground, over time, is pushed out by the plant itself to the surface, where the seeds are already ripening. If you miss the time to collect the seeds, they will fall into the ground on their own. Provided that you have collected the seeds, you must dry them for a week, and then the seeds should be planted to a shallow depth - no more than 1 cm at a distance of 4-5 cm. Flowering with such a planting will occur in the 3rd year.

CROCUS AT HOUSE + PHOTO

If you want to receive flowering plant crocus in winter, use spring-flowering varieties of Dutch selection for forcing.

In this case, the bulbs should be of the same variety and size: this will allow you to get plants that are the same in height and bloom at the same time.

For forcing in the winter at home, the following types and hybrids of crocuses are used:

Crocus spring (Crocus vernus)	With coloring: white flowers - ", Jeanne d" Arc "
Purple flowers - "Remembrance"	Golden - "Mammoth Yellow"
White flowers with purple veins - "Pickwick"	Silver lilac - "Vanguard
Crocus beautiful (Crocus speciosus)	"Flower Record"

As well as the following popular varieties:

If you want your crocuses to bloom in February-March next year, then already at the end of May current year bulbs dug out after withering of the aerial parts of plants should be determined for the whole summer in good ventilated a room with an air temperature of + 20 ° C in a closed room with sufficient air access. Starting from September, the storage temperature for bulbs is reduced to + 15-17 degrees.

In October, the bulbs can be planted in pots with soil consisting of soddy and leafy soil and coarse-grained river sand at the rate of 2:2:1. The main requirement for the substrate is lightness, breathability and moisture permeability.

A small amount of bone meal will not be superfluous for the substrate. Before planting the bulbs in a pot, for better rooting bulbs are watered with a special solution for this.

Bulbs planted at a distance of 2.5 cm are sprinkled with a substrate, but not more than 2.5 cm thick.

Until the first sprouts appear, the pot with bulbs is stored in the refrigerator section, avoiding watering.

With the advent of sprouts, the pots are placed in bright room, where the air temperature is not lower than + 12-15 degrees and watering begins.

For plants to have decorative look and respond appropriately to changing temperature conditions, they are covered with caps made of, for example, plain paper.

After removing the caps, the desired lighting can be provided using lamps artificial lighting that can be fixed on the window frame.

To prolong the flowering process, crocuses are placed in a cool place for 3 days.

Enhanced nutrition for crocuses is provided by fertilizers for bulbs, which are produced during every second watering from the moment the sprouts appear until the buds appear. Top dressing is stopped during flowering and resumed after its completion until the stems wither at the rate of once a week.

As soon as the withering of the aerial parts of the crocus begins, watering is reduced, the bulbs are removed from the pots and put into storage for storage. summer period. Bulbs are stored in a well-ventilated area at a temperature of +20 degrees.

With the onset of September, the storage temperature is lowered to 15-17 ° C, and in October, crocus bulbs are planted in pots filled with a new substrate.

To obtain blooming crocuses by March 8, plant the plant in late November - early December. The sprouts that appear in February will allow you to admire the flowers in early March.

So let's recap:

We buy bulbs

We select the largest and healthiest

Pour drainage into the prepared wide shallow pot, then the soil and impregnate the soil with a fertilizer solution that stimulates the growth of the bulbs

The bulbs themselves are also soaked for half an hour in a solution to stimulate the germination of bulbous plants.

We place the bulbs in a pot at a distance of 2 cm from each other, sprinkle with earth, but so that the tails stick out from above

We provide cool conditions for the bulbs, for example, put the pot in the bottom section of the refrigerator

As soon as green sprouts appear, we transfer the pot from the refrigerator to a bright room where the air temperature is + 12-15 ° C and start watering.

With the advent of green leaves and buds, crocuses can be placed anywhere in the apartment, but since they are cold-loving plants, they should still be placed on the coldest window sill at night. During the flowering period, top dressing is not done, but only watered.

After flowering is over, fertilizing with fertilizers for bulbs is resumed, and wilted flowers are carefully cut off. sharp knife or scissors.

After the leaves of the crocus wither, the bulbs are taken out of the ground, dried and cleaned, the children are separated from the mother bulb and either put away for storage in order to plant them in open ground in the country, or to use for the next distillation.

More material on the topic of the section:

How did our grandmothers propagate strawberries? After the strawberry bushes bore fruit, they “launched” the garden, that is, they did not cut off the mustache. And at the end of August, the strongest rooted rosettes were selected and transferred to a new place. Raise your hand, those who blindly follow the grandmother's method. Forest of hands!

But if you want to get high-quality seedlings, if you want to keep all the varietal qualities of strawberries, if you need excellent harvest from year to year, you need to act a little differently. How to properly propagate strawberries with a mustache, we will tell today on the electronic pages of "Country Councils".

The correct approach to propagating strawberries is as follows: the bush should produce either berries or a mustache. One out of two. If a gardener takes mustaches from freshly hatched strawberry bushes, he gets defective seedlings. main part nutrients the plant has already spent on the ripening of berries, which means that its mustache will be much weaker than we would like.

In addition, forcing the bushes to “work on two fronts”, the summer resident risks losing them ahead of time. Strawberries are depleted faster, the berries become smaller, the bushes are more likely to be exposed to diseases, the yield of the beds is reduced by 20-30%.

Reproduction of strawberries using mother bushes

Proper propagation of strawberries begins with the selection of the so-called mother bushes. To do this, in the first year after planting, absolutely all mustaches are removed from absolutely all strawberry bushes and fruiting is expected. The bushes that survived the vagaries of the weather best of all, did not get sick and gave the largest berries, are marked with a sticker, a stick, a knitting - whatever, as long as it is noticeable. These are your future mother bushes. For convenience, you can even transplant them to a separate bed according to the pattern of 40 centimeters between bushes, 80 centimeters between rows.

The following year, on selected mother bushes, all buds are removed, preventing flowering and, accordingly, setting berries.

Thus, without being able to produce seeds, plants will put all their strength into vegetative reproduction, that is, in the mustache. Already in the first month of summer, the mother bushes will begin to give a mustache, on which rosettes will subsequently be tied. You need to leave only the largest, most powerful mustache, and ruthlessly cut off all the little things. The best option- shorten the mustache of strawberries, leaving only one outlet on each, closest to the mother bush. But if you need a lot of seedlings, then you can use the second sockets.

When the first roots appear on the outlets, two options for further action are possible:

Strawberry seedlings are planted in a new place in late July - early August, so that before the onset of the first frost, the plants have time to take root and grow stronger. Therefore, two weeks before planting, the mustache connecting the sockets to the mother bush is cut, giving the young plants time to get used to eating from their own roots.

Mother bushes can serve as a source of high-quality seedling material for two to three years. Moreover, two- or three-year-old strawberries produce much more whiskers than first-year ones. Well, after three years, it is recommended to replace the uterine bushes with young ones, having carried out the entire selection procedure again.

We wish you success and great harvests!

The uterine branch of the nursery is all tree plantations that serve as a source of material used for seed and vegetative propagation. Such plantations include orchards, protective forest belts, plantations of poplars, willows, etc. The presence of its own uterine base in the nursery allows for the timely collection, sowing and stratification of seeds. Freshly cut cuttings give a high percentage of survival; in addition, there are no unproductive costs associated with travel for the procurement of source material, packaging and transportation of seeds and cuttings. The basis of uterine plantations in the nursery is a uterine garden of a mixed nature (fruit-decorative) with various departments, the main ones are:

1) uterine ornamental garden with branches of roses and lilacs;

2) uterine orchard with rootstock and graft branches, as well as with a branch of varietal berries;

3) offspring plantation;

4) plantation of poplars and willows.

When selecting breeds in mother ornamental garden it is necessary to take as the main one the assortment that is approved for cultivation by the promising organizational and economic plan of the nursery. At the same time, ordinary tree species should not be planted, the seeds of which can be easily harvested on the spot outside the garden. Particular attention should be paid to decoratively valuable rare species, especially varieties of garden forms of trees and shrubs. Species that are of only botanical interest and do not have great silvicultural or ornamental value should not be included in the assortment of the mother garden.

Trees in the decorative mother garden are placed in small groups, taking into account biological features breeds in order to obtain pure-bred seeds. Shrubs are planted in separate groups, at a distance of 15-20 m from one another. With a closer placement, the groups merge into solid arrays. Shrub groups can be planted in between groups of trees. Seed and cuttings mother shrubs are regularly planted on the stump so that strong young shoots grow on them, suitable for cuttings, both summer and lignified cuttings.

The placement of trees and shrubs in the mother garden should ensure their free and normal development, and also taking into account the possibility of maximizing the use of mechanization. These requirements are met by row planting with sufficient distance in rows and between rows. These distances are determined depending on the size of the plants. Plant groups have rectangles, the area of ​​​​which is 500, 1000 and 2500 m for trees, 50-200 m for shrubs.

The mother garden requires a systematic and meticulous care(plowing the soil, loosening, weeding, fertilizing, watering, pest and disease control, thinning or pruning).

Creation mother orchard can pursue two goals: obtaining cuttings and providing the nursery with seeds for growing rootstock seedlings. It is laid out like an ordinary orchard with a square layout: 8X8 m for pome seeds and 6X6 m for stone fruits with mechanized processing of row spacing in two mutually perpendicular directions.

branch varietal berries created by planting two-year-old bushes of varietal species of currant and gooseberry or one-year root offspring of the best raspberry varieties. Bushes are placed in rows, each variety separately, the distance between rows is 2 m, and in rows - 1-1.5 m.

A plantation of poplars and willows is planted not with cuttings, but with seedlings, as this allows you to get more resistant and powerful mother plants with a longer service life. Planting is square with a distance between plants of 1-1.5 m.

In green building nurseries, it is impossible to create poplar plantations by planting seedlings, since in this case urban green spaces will be clogged with female specimens, which is highly undesirable. For bookmarks, cuttings taken from male specimens should be used.

Queen cells of poplars and willows annually, in early spring, before the start of sap flow, or in late autumn, after leaf fall, they are planted on a stump (pruning). This ensures that strong, stage-young shoots are obtained, which are most suitable for cuttings. With good soil and proper care plantations of poplars and willows can be used for up to 50 years.

Growing spray roses and lilacs

On the territory of the mother garden, a rose garden is placed as one of its branches. In the rose garden, various types and varieties of roses are grown with scientific, decorative and production target- obtaining flowers for cutting, for sale, cuttings for vegetative propagation, etc.

The area chosen for the rose garden should be well lit, especially in the morning. Therefore, the best place for it is a flat or with a slope of up to 3 ° section of the southern slopes, with occurrence ground water no closer than 2 m.

Roses are planted in the spring, so the soil is prepared from autumn to a depth of 45-50 cm. In the rose garden, mother cells of various groups of roses should be presented in order to obtain the source material for their reproduction - polyanthus, hybrid-polyanthus, Pernetian, tea-hybrid, climbing, etc.

Roses are planted square way(100X100 cm). For bookmarks, only varietally tested, well-formed annual seedlings are taken. Before planting, the shoots are cut off; after planting, the seedlings are spudded with earth to protect them from drying out. When the buds begin to swell, the roses unwind.

For laying a mother rose garden, it is better to take own-rooted seedlings of varietal roses, since grafted roses constantly give wild shoots from their stock - wild rose, which, if not cut in time, destroys the grafted part of the shrub. In the second year after planting, they begin harvesting material for cuttings and budding. One normally developed bush can give five to six shoots or 12-20 cuttings for green cuttings and two or three shoots or 10-15 eyes for budding during the summer. one bush climbing rose can give six shoots up to 60 cm long, which will be 50 cuttings for green cuttings.

To determine the need for mother liquors of various groups of roses, when laying a rose garden, one can roughly proceed from the following calculation. To obtain 1000 cuttings for summer cuttings and budding, you need bushes:

Polyanthus and hybrid-folio 50

Climbing roses 15-20

Tea-hybrid, Pernetian 150

The service life of the rose garden good care followed by 10-15 years.

All mother roses must be provided with labels indicating the variety, since it is almost impossible to accurately determine their varieties when they do not yet have foliage.

Plot of land occupied various varieties lilac planted for the same purpose is called syringaria. It is laid on equal, open areas or in areas with small slopes of western exposure. The soil must be well cultivated and fertilized. For planting, two-year-old bush lilac seedlings are used. Bushes are placed in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 2-2.5 m from one another. Wild shoots that have emerged from a dormant bud near the root neck of the stock should be immediately destroyed, otherwise the varietal lilac quickly runs wild. After flowering, the bushes are pruned and old and weak branches are removed (they are cut off almost at the very base), and old brushes are also removed. This contributes to the formation of new, powerful shoots.

Today I will talk about the most commonly used method of propagating garden strawberries (strawberries) - how to propagate strawberries with a mustache. Usually strawberry seedlings good variety costs so much that instead of the amount of seedlings we need, we get only a few bushes. However, for a real summer resident to grow seedlings from strawberry bushes for a whole strawberry plantation- not a problem. He knows any number of ways to do it.

Sometimes, having got a few unusual seedling bushes, not very experienced gardeners they are trying to sit on two chairs: and pick berries from these bushes (for starters ... a bucket!), And, at the same time, use these strawberry bushes as mother plants for planting (the size of ... a hectare).

But this approach greatly depletes the bushes, and, sooner or later, the garden bed, not having reached the size of the plantation, begins to degenerate: strawberries get sick more and more often, yield less, berries become worse in quality.

On the other hand, it is difficult to fulfill all the requirements for reproduction: after all, you need to choose as mother plants most appropriate to this variety, high-yielding, most hardy and resistant to various diseases strawberry plants (garden strawberries). And leaving only the first rosettes on a strawberry mustache for reproduction is not such an easy task.

In order to get a bed of high-quality strawberries corresponding to the variety of strawberries as a result, the gardener will have to do right choice. I think it makes sense to sacrifice one season: in the first year, remove absolutely all mustaches, only pick berries in June-July, while marking (with a stick, bow, adhesive label, etc.) the best bushes for all of the above signs.

It should be noted that the most berry bushes give less whiskers, but next year we will use these bushes as mother plants for propagation.

We plant the selected strawberry uterine bushes on a separate bed after 70-80 cm. In the spring, we remove all the buds, but we save the mustache.

From these elite strawberry bushes for propagation, starting from June, we select only large strawberry mustaches. The larger the bush, the larger the berries, which means that the yield is two to three times higher. Remove all small strawberry tendrils.

In the first year after planting the mother plants of mustaches, strawberries do not have very many, but the seedlings on them develop the most powerful and high-quality. The best seedling obtained from two-year-old strawberries (garden strawberries): plants 2-3 years old have the greatest ability to form mustaches. From one such bush for the summer you can get 20-30 or more mustaches for breeding. That is - in a few years, in fact, a whole plantation.

We allow the mustache to crawl freely and settle down in the garden. In June, rosettes of leaves form on the selected whiskers. Mustaches with the formed rosettes need to be pinned to the soil and watered. Such pinned seedlings grow 2-3 weeks earlier.

During this period, we shorten the ends of the mustache, leaving only one of the first strongest outlets on each. It is permissible to use a second high-quality strawberry outlet for propagation. We are not in a hurry to cut off the sockets themselves from the mother bush: the breeding socket should take root well.

Before transplanting strawberry seedlings on permanent place Rooting mustaches are regularly watered, weeded, loosened and lightly spud. A couple of weeks before the transplant (or earlier), we cut off the mustache with scissors from the mother bush. Young strawberry plants (garden strawberries) completely switch to their own root nutrition, and the mother bush continues to feed the younger mustache that is not cut off from it.

If strawberry sockets ( garden strawberries) are ripe, they are just right to transplant at the end of July. The sooner we plant seedlings in a permanent place, the better it will take root and prepare for winter. You can plant strawberries in August, in extreme cases - until mid-September. With more late boarding fragile root system may be affected by frost.

In summer, flower buds are laid, which will produce a crop for next year. Therefore, it is necessary to transplant seedlings with a large clod of earth so that the plants do not notice the transplant.

Strawberry seedlings planted in a permanent place from late July to mid-September will give good harvest next year. And if these same rooted rosettes are planted in a permanent place in the spring, then in the summer they will give only single berries.
Next summer, we will leave part of the young strawberry bushes for harvest, and use part of the bushes again for strawberry propagation.