How to plant bearded irises. Growing iris in open ground on a personal plot: features of the variety. Types and varieties of irises

To stratify or not to stratify? What are the types of stratification? What kind of seeds does it need? This article is for those who want answers to these and other questions related to artificial " winter period» seeds and increase their germination.

What is stratification? This is:

1. Measures to accelerate seed germination and increase their germination.
2. Imitation of winter for planting material, that is, its artificial cooling a long period time.

Four basic rules of stratification

What is needed for successful stratification of seeds and their friendly germination? Several factors come into play here:

1. Temperature limits of cold stratification - from 1 to 5˚С, warm - from 18 to 28˚С.
2. The duration of the process is from one to three months.
3. The amount of substrate - it must be taken three times more than seeds.
4. Humidity - keep the substrate or tissue slightly damp.

With proper stratification of seeds, it is unacceptable to lower the temperature below 0˚С, otherwise the seeds will simply freeze. An increase in heat above the norm during cold stratification will provoke early germination of grains. Even if you provide the plants with all the necessary conditions in the future, they will be frail.

It is not necessary to shorten the duration of the "cold" process - the sprouts will come out underdeveloped, and there will be no talk of any crop. For individual plants, the duration of cooling is extended to 2 years, and warm stratification can take place in 2 days.

Watch the moisture content of the soil or the napkin on which the seeds are laid out - if they dry out, the planting material will die, if they are thoroughly wetted, it will germinate and rot.

As for the amount of substrate, it should be more than grains, but seed stratification can be carried out in another way - without earth or sand at all.

What seeds need stratification?

This process is mandatory for stone fruits, perennials, individual flowers - lavender, anemone, aconite, petunia, pome and vegetable plants. Stratification is indispensable when growing gentian, ginseng, primrose, backache, pine. But for oregano, marjoram, rosemary, thyme or it is not required.

Seed Stratification Timing Table

Types of seed stratification

There are several methods of stratification: cold, warm, stepped. You can also do this in different ways. Let's get into the nuances.

Stratification of seeds in the refrigerator

Cold stratification is carried out at a temperature of 1 to 5˚С and humidity - up to 75% for pome fruits, stone fruits, perennial onions and flowers. The process itself consists of 2 stages:

• swelling of planting material;
• its subsequent cooling.

For swelling, the seeds must be soaked in melted water heated to 15-20˚С. You can also add humic or antifungal drugs there (strictly according to the instructions). The amount of water depends on the size of the grains. For small ones, the ratio of the mass of seeds and water will be 1:0.5, for large ones - 1:1. The duration of soaking also depends on the "caliber" of the grains:

• large - up to 2 hours ( pumpkin seeds);
• medium - 10-12 hours (peppers, tomatoes);
• small - up to 48 hours (poppy).

After swelling, the seeds need to be cooled.

Small seeds are laid out:

1. In bags with zip fasteners, where perlite or wet sphagnum is previously poured. Keep the substrate moist and do not tightly close the bags themselves so that the planting material does not suffocate.
2. On plastic lids from under sour cream. Place gauze or a cotton pad folded in several layers on each of them, on which the seeds will “hibernate”. Fold the covers themselves in a pile and refrigerate, do not forget to water the planting material.
3. Between pieces of moistened foam rubber. Such a "sandwich" is also stored in the refrigerator.
4. On the snow. The substrate is poured into the container, and the top is covered with snow, on which the grains are laid out. When thawing in the refrigerator, the snow will “pull” the seed into the soil with it.

For larger seeds, other methods can be used.

Prepare the substrate: coarse sand, peat, vermiculite. For disinfection, spill it with a dark solution of potassium permanganate or antifungal drugs. You will also need a plastic container with holes for water to drain or flower pot. Further options may be several:

1. Thoroughly mix the seeds with a moistened substrate in a ratio of 1:3.
2. Lay in layers of sand/peat (1-3 cm) - seeds - damp cloth- sand.
3. Sow the seeds in the usual way into wet soil.

After the seeds are decomposed, the containers with planting material are removed in the refrigerator.

It is an alternative to cold stratification and is therefore suitable for the same seeds that need to be cold stratified. It is ideal for areas with stable snow cover or negative winter temperatures(no noticeable thaw). On the plus side, it doesn't take up precious space in the fridge.

planting material they are laid out in containers with a substrate, as described above, and then they can be covered with a thick layer of snow on top and kept on the balcony. Or cover with a plastic lid and bury in the area. The layer of snow on top must be at least 30 cm.

Dry way

You can make your life much easier and apply the dry method. Seeds are simply mixed with dry substrate (sand, garden soil) in a closed container. Leave holes for air access. Then the vessel is taken out to the site and covered big box, and then nature itself will do everything that is needed - it will cover with snow and create the necessary microclimate.

Is stratification carried out in the freezer?

Stratification is not carried out negative temperatures. There is another name for this process - freezing. It allows you to reduce the time of stratification. Primrose seeds are usually frozen,. The process should be done like this:

• pour the seeds into the container;
• pour water into the same place so that it completely covers the planting material;
• hold the container for a few hours room temperature;
• put the container in the freezer until the water freezes completely;
• remove the container and let the liquid thaw;
• repeat the procedure 5-7 times.

This species does not mean an imitation of winter, but measures for the friendly germination of seeds. It takes less time - sometimes a couple of days is enough. Subject to warm stratification,. The desired temperature is + 18-22˚С, humidity - 70%. Seeds should be put on a moistened napkin and transferred to bright room until sprouts appear.

You can also stratify and backache. Seeds of culture are laid out on a damp foam rubber sponge or coco substrate, and sand is poured on top with a thin layer or covered with another piece of foam rubber. The whole structure is wrapped with a film and placed in the light and in heat (25-28˚С). You will see the first sprouts in 14-30 days.

Combined stratification

This species is good for those seeds that germinate for a long time. In this case, alternate exposure to heat and cold. It is useful for gentian, primrose, lemongrass.

Bury the seeds a little in well-watered sand, and put the container in heat (18-28˚С). After a month, put them in the cold (1-5 ° C) for another 30 days.

With small gentian seeds, you need to act differently. Put the soaked small hydrogel in the bag, pour the planting material there. Remove the bag for 14-20 days in a warm place (+20˚C), and then transfer it to the cold (3-4˚C) for another 3-4 weeks. After that, the seeds can be removed from the hydrogel and sown in warm clay soil. At a temperature of + 20˚С, sprouts will appear in 1-2 weeks.

For a cold period, you need to organize first. Wet a cotton pad, spread the seeds on it in 1 layer, put everything together in a bag and put it in the refrigerator for 7-14 days. Be sure to moisten the disc as needed. After the cold, remove the primrose from the refrigerator and place it next to the battery (not on the battery!) Until sprouts appear.

Important nuances of seed stratification

1. In order not to confuse the planting material, be sure to sign it. This can be done with an indelible marker directly on packages or containers, or you can stick pieces of adhesive tape with inscriptions on them.
2. Be sure to monitor the humidity of the substrate or napkins, they should not dry out.
3. Some seeds do not spoil, even if they “overlie” in the cold, and individual plants begin to germinate right in the refrigerator. If you see sprouting sprouts, urgently plant such “hurry-ups” in the ground.

Now you are familiar with the stratification of seeds, put it into practice and the germination of your seed will reach 100%!

When it comes to the results of labor on an agricultural plot or garden, the phrase “battle for the harvest” will be quite appropriate in this context.

Not only a phrase, but also ways of fighting akin to the military . How can one not recall the basic concepts from the theory of military art. Indeed, in order to achieve a strategic goal in the garden, as soon as we are talking about it, various tactics and specific forms and methods are also used.

Outstanding talent, skills and knowledge will be very, very handy here.

In the same line with them is stratification. Agree, there is something in this word, consonant with military terms.

What is stratification and why is it needed?

Nature does not tolerate repetition, endowing each plant with exclusive properties. For one to wake up from winter dormancy, warm earth and warm spring sun. Others need to be helped and prompted, imitating the natural change of seasons - without such a procedure, seedlings will be sluggish and uneven.

AT natural environment natural stratification is much easier. A ripe seed for the winter is immersed in a state of rest - the embryo sleeps. During this time, under the influence of frost and moisture, the hard shell softens, cracks appear on it.

In spring, a cold and damp environment motivates the awakening of the embryo and its craving for warmth and the sun. This is manifested in active and stormy shoots.

But what about at home?

After all, often the seed is harvested in the fall and stored at home in a warm room or bought in specialized stores. And there they do not do specific pre-sowing preparation.

This is exactly what artificial thermal effects are used for. A kind of simulation at home of the winter transition as a trigger for the plant. Properly stratifying seeds means what it means to create conditions for high similarity and a generous harvest.

Video from an expert on seed stratification at home:

Timing of stratification for different crops

Perennial flowers and herbs, as well as stone fruit, vegetable and seed plants, need mandatory support.

Not every species needs such a procedure. For example, oregano, marjoram, rosemary, sage or thyme cope on their own.

You need to understand that each culture has its own period of thermal preparation, failing to withstand or violating which, you can not only not get the desired effect, but also ruin a living green organism.

Variety of crops	Stratification period (days)	Recommended temperature (°C)
Plum, cherry plum, apricot	120–150	0–10
Peach	60–100	0–10
Pear, apple tree (large-fruited)	80–90	3–5
Cherries	150–180	0–10
Rowan chokeberry	80–90	0–3
strawberries	20–30	0–2
Blueberry	120 to 180	0–4
Sea buckthorn, honeysuckle,	up to 30	3–5
Rosehip, mountain ash, elderberry, bird cherry	120–180	1–5
Siberian cedar	60–90	0–5
Lavender, gentian	40–50	3–5
Grapes, lemongrass, almonds	120–140	0–4
Apple trees: Siberian Antonovka		5–7
Anise	60–100	1–5
Turn	120–150	0–4
Cherry: ordinary felt Montmorency		0–10
Walnut	50–80	2–5
Quince	70–90	0–5
	210–240	0–5

Require stratification and mandatory stress treatment onion and leeks, carrots, parsley, parsnips, celery, scorzonera (also called sweet root), black carrots, Spanish goat.

Tomatoes, radishes, lettuce can do without stratification when growing from seeds. But by applying it, you can already feel the real benefits from green shoots.

If you plan to plant seeds of conifers - pine, fir, spruce, larch, then stratification will also help a lot (although some gardeners believe that it is not necessary). It is required to soak the seeds in thawed ice water and keep in the refrigerator for 2-3 days - this will significantly increase germination.

Types of plant stratification

It would seem that this procedure is simple, but it has several varieties.

By the timing of the stratification happens:

• autumn;
• winter;
• spring.

Four ways to conduct it divided the event into the following types:

• cold;
• warm;
• combined;
• stepped.

Cold

This type of seedbed preparation is used for seeds of perennial crops. It is acceptable for regions with clearly graduated seasons. This definition includes regions with a temperate climate.

During cold stratification, the following conditions are created for the seeds:

• air temperature – from zero to +5°C;
• humidity from 60 to 75%;
• the duration of cold treatment can be from one month to six months.

Crops to be cold processed: pome fruits, stone fruits, perennial flowers.

Warm

Preparatory pre-sowing activities carried out according to the “thermal algorithm” are the simplest procedures that do not require special skills.

Future plants that are still in a dormant state are placed in conditions where they quickly awaken - a temperature of 17 to 22 degrees with a humidity of at least 70%.

Experienced gardeners advise - a similar start is recommended for vegetable crops: tomato, eggplant, cucumber, various peppers.

To speed up the "pecking", the material is placed on sunny windowsill or under bright light, laying the seeds on damp cotton wool or a napkin,

After the appearance of sprouts, a slightly grown young culture is ready for planting in the ground. It could be peat pot or a glass of fertile soil. If the weather conditions allow - the temperature of the air and the earth, then they can also be placed on a prepared garden bed.

Combined

The combined method is a rather labor-intensive procedure designed for seeds that germinate for a long time and are covered with a hard shell.

This applies to almost all perennial shrubs and trees such as viburnum, yew, plum, apricot, hawthorn, snowberry.

For example, viburnum and hawthorn need a particularly long combined stratification. It can last from six to eight months.

To wake up, the seed is first placed for four months in a comfortable environment, where the air temperature is up to 25 ° C and humidity up to 75%. And then in conditions where the air warms up no higher than + 5 ° C.

Each type of green crops needs an individual approach:

1. The yew has a different stratification calendar: the warm period lasts up to 1.5, and the cold period lasts up to 3–4 months.
2. Lemongrass is buried in wet sand, where at a temperature of 18 to 28 ° C it stays for up to 30 days. After this period, it should remain in a cool container for the same amount of time, where the air does not exceed +5°C.
3. Planting gentian seeds should be placed on a damp cloth or in a plastic bag with soaked hydrogel. There it should be twenty days at + 20 ° C. Then the seed needs a half-month exposure to cold - no higher than + 4 ° C.
4. rise better if its seeds, placed between moistened napkins or cotton pads, stay for half a month in the refrigerator. And then, without reducing the humidity, until the sprouts appear, they will be placed on the windowsill above the battery.

stepped

In terms of complexity and time costs, this is the most time-consuming preplanting process. It consists of alternating "turning on" a cold and a warm cycle.

But do not forget that each flower, however, like any natural individual, including animals and humans, needs an exclusive approach.

This is especially true for proper stratification.

Name of culture	Recommended Algorithm
Aconite	For this plant, a two-stage preparatory cycle is preferred: Thirty days in warmth - from 20 to 25 ° C. Exposure to cold, for 90 days, at 2 to 4°C.
Anemone: forest, crown, Japanese, tender	When planting in winter, the flower does not need preparatory measures. Since autumn, it has been immersed in the ground to a shallow depth. At spring landing the order of presowing preparation is similar to the previous plant (aconite).
	Before planting in spring soil, seed material is kept in sand for up to 15 days, where it is not higher than +8°C.
Cornflower: blue, field, Fischer	In the last two pre-planting months, the future flower is kept in a refrigerator or cellar, where the air is not higher than 5 ° C.
Carnation: herbal, sandy, lush	Heat treatment is carried out for 60 days, the air should not warm up above five degrees.
Jeffersonia: two-leaved, doubtful	Two-level stepwise preparatory procedures are needed: Six months in the cool - at 2-4 ° C. The last 30 days before planting, systemic diurnal temperature fluctuations are necessary: ​​18 hours the seeds are kept at 10°C and 6 hours at 30°C.
Delphinium (spur, larkspur).	From two weeks to a month, planting material is kept in sand, heated no higher than 6 ° C.
Bell	The conditions of detention are the same as those of the delphinium.
Clematis (clematis): Drummond, burning, whorled, ligustic-leaved	For high-quality germination, it is recommended to carry out a two-stage preparatory cycle: Seeds are stored for 90 days in sand heated to 5°C. Next comes germination on raw material (napkin, cotton swab), at 30°C.
: ordinary, smelly	Semi-annual combined cycle required: Quarter of the year storage conditions should be below 20°C and humidity around 75%. In the last three month period, the air should be between 2–4°C.
: English, narrow-leaved	For this flower, apply cold method bundles. It can be of two types: Artificial - storage for 45 days in the refrigerator at 3–5 ° C, and immediately before planting, it is advisable to mix with sand. Natural - this is a pre-winter landing in the ground.
(chamomile): lacustrine, marsh, largest, magnificent, round-leaved, subalpine	Both artificial and natural thermal storage is acceptable, similar to the temperature treatment of lavender.
Peony extraordinary (evasive) and milky-flowered.	All varieties require combined conditions preplant preparation. During the first preparatory thirty-day period, the following daily conditions are needed: 18 hours - 18°C. 6 hours - 30°C. Last 90 days - no higher than 7°C.
Fine-leaved peony	In the first four months of preparatory procedures: 18 hours - +12°C. 6 hours - +30°C. The remaining 45 days - no higher than 5 ° C.
Primula: spring, ear, polyanthus, high.	Stratification of primrose at home requires patience and some skills. Planted in a container, the source material of future seedlings is placed for two weeks in harsh conditions. The soil should not heat up above 4°C. If, during observation, the seeds do not hatch, then the tray is placed in the freezer, where it is not lower than -10 ° C.
Noble liverwort	Two-level preparatory measures are needed: Stage 1 – +18–20°C for 30 days. Stage 2 - +12°C for 3.5 months.
Phlox	Seed material is stored in sand for 5 months at +2–5°C.

Ways to stratify seeds at home

For better germination of their favorite crops, flower growers, using generally recognized techniques, add their know-how, generously sharing their experience with colleagues.

The most "run-in" methods include the following types:

• dry;
• in cabbage stalks;
• wet;
• winter sowing.

Dry

This is the easiest and least time consuming way.

It consists of two stages:

1. Preparatory. This is where planting material is disinfected. It can be carried out using a half-percent solution of potassium permanganate. Future green crops are soaked in it for thirty minutes. Then drying and, if necessary, packaging. Do not forget to sign the generated containers or packages. This is the case when it comes to big species diversity seed fund.
2. The direct effect of temperature. It can also be done in different ways. In the refrigerator, maintaining the desired temperature conditions– not higher than +4°C. Or outdoors, in an open area, burying a container in a snowdrift before the spring thaw. If, of course, climatic conditions allow.

At the same time, the timing of stone fruit stratification, as well as the algorithm for carrying out, differ not only in weather conditions, but also on the type and variety of planted crops.

In cabbage stalks

Confirming the proverb - "the Kazan woman is cunning, and the Ryazan woman is more cunning", resourceful gardeners came up with a very peculiar way of auxiliary training. We are talking about embedding planting material in cabbage stumps.

By the way, this is not only an original, but also a very effective way that special efforts will not be required from the performer.

All that is needed for this is to separate the stalk from the cabbage, cut out the core from it and place the seed there. Close the hole with a stopper made from the same stump.

It will not be superfluous to mark the place of digging with a stick with a tag so as not to get confused in the spring.

With the advent of days favorable for planting, the stump is dug out, and the saved seeds are planted in the garden.

Wet

This is somewhat laborious, but extremely necessary procedure for individual crops, such as, for example, ash, walnut, maple, euonymus and others.

Here, too, craftsmen use several tricks:

1. Sanding. Substrate containers are being prepared. It could be river sand(preferably washed), old sawdust, moss or peat. Seeds, like soil, must be dried and disinfected. Next, the substrate is moistened and two-thirds of the containers are filled with it. Seeds are laid on top and covered with soil. To prevent the formation of fungal spores, the ground is slightly impregnated with one of the biofungicides. It can be Trichodermin, Fitosporin or Alirin-B. If the containers are not large and they have a place on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, then these are the best conditions for storage. The main thing is that the air is not higher than + 4 ° C. At the entire stage of storage, the conditions of detention are monitored. If necessary, the soil is moistened.
2. Heat treatment in fabric rolls. Pieces up to 35 cm long and 10 cm wide are cut out of natural fabric. Wet moss or cotton wool is laid out on them, on top of which seeds are laid. Rolls are formed, which are tied and lowered into the water for greater impregnation. The roll or rolls, if necessary, are signed and folded into a plastic bag. After that, they need to be placed in the refrigerator, on the vegetable shelf down. There they will be in the cold (+ 4 ° C), until the onset of favorable landing conditions. If a fungus is detected during monitoring, then preventive procedures are carried out - the tissue is removed and replaced with a fresh one.

Podzimny sowing

This is the easiest way to thermally prepare for friendly spring shoots. All planting material is placed in the ground in the fall. There he goes through a natural stratification. This method is suitable for winter garlic, various greens, individual varieties salads.

This is not a complete list of exclusive methods of stratification. If one of them is correctly and skillfully applied, then already in the spring on personal plot, flowerbed and garden will see the wonderful results of the work of the owners.

bearded iris(Iris) - beautifully blooming perennial from the iris or iris family (Iridaceae)

Nature endowed with all the colors of the rainbow - pink and crimson, lemon and orange-yellow, cherry and lilac, snow-white and sky-blue. Maybe that's why the ancient Greeks named it after the rainbow goddess Irida. Irises are plants in which you can admire one flower!

Exist classification varieties bearded irises height:

Undersized - height 25-36 cm

Medium height - 37-70 cm

Tall - over 70 cm high

At severe frosts rhizomes can either die completely (a rather rare occurrence), or top part, located close to the surface of the earth, freezes slightly. This is salient feature bearded irises - the emergence of rhizomes on the surface of the soil. No matter how much you cover them with earth, after a while the rhizomes still stand “undressed”. In autumn, it is recommended to mulch irises with a small layer of earth or peat.

The curtain of irises grows to the sides up to 10 cm per year (depending on the variety). If several varieties grow nearby, then after 5 years you can easily mix up the varieties, the rhizomes will close.

I repeatedly noticed in my garden in the spring how the upper tiers of rhizomes look lifeless on old bushes. However, after 2 - 3 weeks, new roots grow in the bushes, leaves appear and abundant flowering. Irises are resistant to late spring frosts, withstand temperatures down to -7 degrees C.

Varieties share by flowering time:

Early - bloom in mid-May and bloom until the end of May

Mid-early - bloom at the very end of May and finish flowering in the first decade of June

Medium and medium late - bloom all June

Late - bloom in early July

Some varieties of foreign selection do not bloom every year in our climatic conditions. The flower bud of irises is laid in the summer of the previous year at a certain amount of positive temperatures. And if the summer was cool, which means that the irises did not have enough heat, then the medium-late and late varieties may not bloom.

In the garden, irises bloom just after the flowering of daffodils and tulips, but before the flowering of peonies, lilies, phloxes.

Location

Light-loving, grow well on sunny places, endure light penumbra from rarely standing trees. In dense shade they do not bloom, although the foliage develops. The site must be protected from strong winds, well, if the sun hits in the morning. Irises do not tolerate excessive moisture - they rot. But during the flowering period they love watering.

reproduction

Propagated vegetatively, dividing the rhizomes into links. If you use a knife, then it must be constantly disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate (15 g per 10 liters of water).

Breaking roots into pieces

I prefer to break the rhizomes, and sprinkle the breaks charcoal. The plot may consist of 1 to 3 fused annual links. If there are live buds on the old links, then they can also be used for reproduction. Pieces of rhizomes are planted in washed soil with sand to a depth of 2-3 cm.

Cut the fan at a 45 degree angle

Iris is covered with DRY sand or peat, sawdust or moss, wrapped in newspaper and placed in plastic bag with holes for ventilation. The package is placed on the refrigerator door, checked periodically so that it does not rot. If there are signs of rot, then they are washed with water and treated with a solution of one of the preparations: potassium permanganate, maxim or vitaros. Then they are washed with water, dried and put back into storage.

Landing

The best soils for bearded irises, light loams serve, although they also grow on clay soils. You can improve heavy soils by adding peat and sand to them. Acidic soils are neutralized with lime.

Before planting irises, the site should be dug up on a shovel bayonet, carefully removing weeds. When preparing the soil, it is good to introduce rotted to a depth of 20 cm, without mixing it with the ground. The rhizome should not touch the manure, otherwise the irises will get sick, and the suction roots will reach it in the process of growth.

When to plant bearded iris?

The best time for planting bearded irises is immediately after flowering. At that time root system grows well, which means that the survival rate increases. But since the timing of flowering is different for different groups irises, then landing can be in different time. In any case, planting should be completed before September 15 - 20, otherwise the irises may not have time to take root.

If you bought an iris in winter or spring, then you can plant it as soon as the snow melts and the soil can be dug. Iris bearded is not afraid return frosts. If the soil is very cold, then it can be spilled before planting. hot water or use soil that has been stored at room temperature. After planting, I recommend covering the plants for 10-14 days with a piece of lutrasil so that they take root faster.

Bearded irises are propagated only by rhizomes, since when seed propagation varietal properties are not preserved.

Slices are sprinkled with ash (charcoal)

We straighten the roots

Rootstock at ground level

The planting division of the bearded iris should have at least one formed rhizome link. It should be healthy, strong, elastic, on a cut of a homogeneous light color. In the division of iris, the leaves are shortened by 2/3, and the roots by 1/3. Previously, a mound of earth is poured into the bottom of the hole, sprinkled with sand on top, and the roots are evenly spread along its slopes, covered with earth and pressed tightly with hands. The rhizome should be located at the level of the soil, it can not be deepened. For the winter, newly planted curtains are sprinkled with peat.

The distance between plants should be 35-40 cm. Irises grow in one place for about 3-4 years, then they must be divided. When planting, the roots should be almost horizontal, and the leaves should be slightly oblique.

Care

Caring for bearded irises consists in periodically loosening the soil, weeding and top dressing.

In early spring, after the snow has melted, if the irises are mulched, you should slightly stir up the shelter to allow air to enter and slightly open the rhizomes. You need to loosen very carefully, since the roots of bearded irises are almost on the surface of the soil.

In dry weather, irises are watered, especially during the flowering period. During this period, make sure that faded flowers do not fall on the leaves, as the leaves may rot.

Feeding irises 3 times per season.

The first top dressing after removing the shelter or mulch - 20 g ammonium nitrate and 20 g of potassium sulfate

The second top dressing in June - 25 g of nitrogen and 25 g of potassium

The third top dressing in July - 50 g of superphosphate and 25 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water

When the leaves begin to brown, with the onset of frost, they are cut off by 1/3. New and rare varieties cover the rhizomes with spruce branches or lutrasil.

Pests and diseases

In early spring, irises can be attacked by a moth caterpillar, which gnaws leaves and flower stalks, especially if the spring is dry.

It happens that thrips nest in the axils of the leaves. Can be used in the form of spraying karbofos (20-40 g per 10 liters of water).

In the second half of summer, slugs appear that eat the leaves. In this case, the soil around the plants is sprinkled with superphosphate.

When the weather is warm, humid, irises can be affected bacterial rot rhizomes. In case of damage, dying areas should be cut out to healthy tissue, and the sections should be treated with potassium permanganate and sprinkled with charcoal. The causative agent of rot dies in the sun, so the cut is dried in direct sunlight.

It happens that at the end of summer the leaves of irises are covered with rusty brown spots. Such leaves should be cut and burned.

Use in the garden

The high decorativeness of bearded irises, the original foliage, which lasts until autumn, allows them to be used both in mixborders, and as a tapeworm, and in groups on the lawn in combination with other perennials, and in and next to water bodies.

Currently, about 30 thousand varieties of hybrid garden iris. They are distinguished by the timing of flowering, the color and shape of the inflorescences, the height of the peduncle. According to the color of flowers, irises are divided into one-color, two-color - with different colors of the upper and lower perianth lobes, plicate - with color in the form of strokes along the edges, iridescent, in which the color smoothly changes from one tone to another.

According to the height of the peduncles, irises are divided into 3 groups:

Undersized or dwarfs - up to 37 cm

Medium height - 37 - 70 cm

Tall varieties - more than 70 cm, wonderful in cut

Video how to plant irises? Why don't irises bloom?

They have long gained popularity due to their unusual appearance and unpretentiousness. They practically do not require care, even an inexperienced gardener can cope with growing. Many varieties of this plant have been bred. In order not to get confused in such a variety, it is necessary to study in advance irises, varieties with photos and names. This will help create spectacular garden to the envy of all the neighbors.

Varieties of irises

Iris is a perennial unpretentious plant that differs unusual shape and flower color. It is suitable for growing in open areas, flooded sunlight. A distinctive feature of the flowers is their charming delicate aroma. Therefore, they are often used in the perfume industry.

Wild-growing irises today can be found in meadows, in the steppe or on sheer cliffs. Under conditions, about five hundred different varieties, which are suitable for cultivation in personal plots. They can be divided into several large groups:

• bearded;
• dwarf;
• bulbous;
• Siberian;
• marsh;
• Japanese.

AT European countries It is customary to divide these plants into 10 - 15 categories. Separately, border, Californian and some other species are distinguished. To decide which of them will take root better on your site, carefully study the irises, their varieties with photos and names.

bearded irises

Iris bearded is considered one of the most common varieties of plants. His distinctive feature becomes the presence of fine hairs on the lower petals. They have a more saturated color compared to the general tone of the flower. Among the most spectacular varieties are:

This is just a small part of the variety on the market today. When choosing, pay attention to the fact that the flowers are in harmony with neighboring specimens and fit into overall design site.

The height of such varieties can reach 80 cm, so you should not plant them in close proximity to photophilous low-growing plants.

dwarf irises

Iris dwarf differs from its counterparts in its small stature. The height of the peduncles does not exceed 40 cm. For most varieties, this parameter is 20 cm at all. They will become ideal option to decorate small compact flower beds. Among the most popular varieties allocate:

Dwarf irises do well in light, permeable soils. If the soil in your garden is heavy, then add sand to it before planting.

bulbous irises

Everyone is used to the fact that irises are rhizomatous plants. Modern specialists have managed to breed several varieties growing from bulbs. They are distinguished by unusually early flowering. They can be compared to snowdrops. As soon as the snow melts, the first flowers appear. There are three main types:

Bulbous irises look good in a flower bed with crocuses, galanthus and so on. They will be ideal for alpine slides.

Such varieties can be grown in pots and large planters. They will become great decoration verandas and gazebos.

Siberian irises

Photos of Siberian irises are impressive. They are distinguished by the extraordinary beauty of the flowers. The value of this species is also in the fact that the foliage of the plant has a rich green color throughout the season. The most spectacular varieties are:

Such varieties look spectacular along the banks of improvised reservoirs, in large ones. Groups of such flowers can decorate the lawn, which will give the landscape an unusual look.

swamp irises

Iris marsh or iris grows everywhere in our country. The leaves of this species are sword-shaped. Their length can reach two meters. This species does well in partial shade. Therefore, such flowers can be planted along fences or near trees with a not too dense crown. Among the most popular varieties are:

Having studied these varieties of irises with photos and names, we can conclude that they are ideal for group landings. With help different types irises can create spectacular flower beds.

Japanese irises

Japanese iris has orchid-shaped flowers. Their size can vary from 15 to 25 cm. In Japan, such plants are planted so that they can be admired from a height. From this angle, they look the most impressive.

The plants are large, so when planting between them, it is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 30 cm. The most popular varieties:

After studying the photo of the varieties of irises, you can choose the right planting material that is suitable for your type of soil. If you choose specimens with different flowering periods, you can admire the beauty of flowers all summer long.

Irises bloom in the garden - video

The rhizome of this flower is called "violet root", and its aroma really resembles the faint smell of violets. In this article, we will talk about existing types and varieties of irises. You will learn how to properly plant a crop and how to care for it so that it grows in open field was successful.

Iris ( Russian name flower - killer whale) - a rhizomatous perennial with xiphoid leaves with a wax coating and thin, fibrous roots.

Irises can be found on many summer cottages. However, not all flower growers know how many varieties of these flowers are bred by breeders.

Multi-colored iris flowers (petal color - from white to dark purple), outwardly similar to orchids, have a pleasant faint aroma. Some varieties of garden irises have a "beard" on the lower petals. The flowering of irises begins in May and lasts until June: each individual flower retains its decorative effect for about a week. The seeds of the plant ripen in autumn, in trihedral boxes that contain from 25 to 45 seeds.

Modern types and varieties of irises are so diverse, beautiful and fragrant that it is difficult to make a choice when growing in open ground in favor of any one variety.

Varieties and varieties of iris

There are the main varieties of irises, which are grown in summer cottages, in the open field in parks and squares, are used when arranging compositions in landscape design.

bearded iris

bearded iris(I. barbata) - this species is divided in turn into three subspecies, depending on the height of the plant:

• undersized - plant height does not exceed 40 cm;
• medium-sized - plants reach a height of up to 70 cm;
• tall - above 70 cm.

The species got its name for the decorative "beard" that adorns the lower petals of the flower along the middle part. The color of bearded iris flowers varies from pale blue to dark purple. Breeders bred great amount new varieties of bearded iris, including two-color ones with bordered petals. These varieties are very decorative, compact, with large flowers and an exciting aroma.

Russian iris

Russian iris(I. ruthenia Ker-Gawler) - forms low dense "pillows" - clumps. Varieties of Russian iris bloom with medium-sized flowers of pale colors. It tolerates short-term drying of the soil. In landscape design, it is used to decorate rocky hills and rock gardens, where rare watering is required.

Siberian iris

Siberian iris, which is actually called iris, is a tall plant, reaches 1 m. The flowers are saturated, purple with shades of blue. Siberian iris and its hybrids bred by breeders are distinguished into a separate subspecies of irises: limniris. In plants of this subgroup, there is no “beard” on the limb of the petals.

Iris marsh

Iris marsh, or yellow, grows in nature along the shores of lakes, rivers, along the slopes of wet ravines. It can grow and bloom well on saline soils, with high temperature outside air. These varieties of iris are successfully used in landscape design for decoration. artificial reservoirs: outdoor pools, ponds, waterfalls, iris tolerates excessive watering, looks great when planted decoratively.

Iris smooth

Iris smooth(I. laevigata Fisch) - cultivation at high humidity air; required abundant watering. Planted near water bodies.

Germanic iris

Germanic iris- with sword-like leaves and flowers on tall strong peduncles, up to 90 cm long. The plant is suitable for decorating bouquets, grown for cutting.

Iris dwarf

Iris dwarf- a low plant, in total reaches a size of 10 cm. Forms dense curtains when grown in open ground. Small flowers have a variety of colors.

Iris Kaempfer

Iris Kaempfer(another name is xiphoid iris) refers to late varieties species irises. Leaves 30-40 cm high frame the flat flowers of the xiphoid iris. Peduncles reach 60-70 cm.

Japanese iris

Japanese iris- an extensive type of irises, which is divided into subgroups depending on the size of the flower. The cultivation of these varieties is most preferable due to the high decorativeness of the flowers. Japanese irises often form double flowers in different dates(early, middle, late, very late). The flowers of the Japanese iris are painted in all shades of rich purple. Flowers of this subgroup do not tolerate wintering well.

Planting a plant

Irises - planting and caring for plants of all botanical species in the open field is approximately the same.

Foreign breeders have bred varieties of tuberous irises, the cultivation of which is not difficult. These flowers have a small height and narrow, graceful petals of bright, saturated colors. Planting material goes into sale in the fall, planting is done before winter.

To plant the bulbs, a trench is dug, the excavated soil is mixed with:

• sand;
• double superforsate;
• crushed coal;
• fresh garden soil.

Leave enough space between plants when planting

In the prepared grooves, the bottom of which is sprinkled with sand (you can spill it with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, epin or heteroauxin), the bulbs of irises are laid out with a sprout up.

Important! Bulbs should not be buried deep into the ground. Rule: it is customary to plant small-bulbous plants at a depth of 3 bulb heights.

Planting small-bulb irises does not require watering, the moisture that was used to irrigate the planting furrow is sufficient. The soil on top needs to be lightly tamped so that the birds cannot pull out the bulbs before they take root. Flowering of small-bulb irises will begin next spring.

Growing. bearded irises

Planting bearded irises requires compliance with certain rules:

Do not forget that bearded irises need to be fed very carefully.

1. It is impossible to bring fresh manure, compost or nitrogen fertilizers into the garden when planting.
2. In acidic soil, chalk or lime should be added first. The acidity of the soil should be reduced.
3. It is not allowed to plant rhizomes of irises in dense, caked soil. Preliminary digging of the soil on a spade bayonet and the introduction of sand will make the soil more acceptable for growing your irises in the open field.
4. The rhizomes of bearded irises are not buried in the soil: the buds should be at the level of the top layer of soil.

Proper care

Iris in landscape design

Very often, iris is used when planting in parks, squares, when decorating territories in landscape design. A huge variety of varieties and species, as well as the high resistance of the plant itself, allow the wider use of this crop for landscaping. Curtains of irises look great different varieties on the lawn carpet.

"Fields" of irises of different colors look very beautiful

Mono-plantings of iris culture decorate urban areas and do not require serious care. This culture has the advantage - perennial plantings in one place and maintaining a decorative look.

Iris care: video

Varieties of irises: photo