We recommend dividing the bush every 4-5 years. It has to do with roots.

In old bushes that have been growing for many years without dividing, they are strongly intertwined and connected at the top with a dense tissue formed by dead stems, various growths that make up the root neck, on which renewal buds are located.
Such roots have to be dug out with great difficulty, since in a peony they are fragile and brittle in themselves, and in older bushes they also go into the ground by at least 80 cm.
And yet, as they say, better late than never.
It is necessary to rejuvenate the bush, otherwise there will be more foliage and diseases every year, and the flowers themselves will become less and less, and those that have blossomed will become smaller and fade faster.
When is the best time to rejuvenate? From the second decade of August to mid-September, and in warm autumn - until the end of the month.

After that, start rocking the bush with a crowbar until it is completely out of the ground.

Lightly clean the roots of the soil and remove the bush from the hole. Leave for 3-4 hours so that the roots wilt and are not so brittle.
Then cut the stems to a height of 10 cm, wash the roots from the ground with water and clean with a wooden peg.
As a rule, old bushes are divided using a stake. It is hammered into the place of the root where the kidneys are least damaged.
This stake breaks the bush into 2 parts or more.
Then each of them is cut sharp knife into divisions.

All diseased and old parts with darkened tissue, small buds must be cut out, and the roots broken during division should also be removed.

A delenka with 2-3 renewal buds and a part of a young root 10 cm long is considered standard.
In order not to wait for a small bush to turn into a lush one, leave one bigger division, let the rest be standard.

It will take only 2 years after planting, and they will also delight you with magnificent flowering.

Planting a peony after division

Now the young peonies are ready for planting.
Each delenka is planted in a hole 50 cm deep, about half filled with garden soil.

But if the pit was prepared on the day of planting (and not 3 weeks before, as expected), the kidneys have a little
below ground level: when the earth settles, they will be at the desired depth.
At the same time, the bush must be lightly spud so that the buds are covered with earth.
We talk in such detail about the deepening of the renewal buds because their incorrect placement is the most common mistake when planting, and it is this that leads to poor flowering of peonies, and sometimes you can not wait for flowers at all.
So that the divided peonies do not freeze, with the onset of stable frosts, the soil around them should be sprinkled with a layer of peat of 10-12 cm, and in early spring the shelter must be raked away, otherwise the roots may be propped up. In subsequent years, peonies will not even need such shelter; adult plants usually winter well.

How to divide a peony bush. Video

If a peony is 8 years old, then it is high time to rejuvenate it.
Divide the bush every 4-5 years. It has to do with roots.
In old bushes that have been growing for many years without dividing, they are strongly intertwined and connected at the top with a dense tissue formed by dead stems, various growths that make up the root neck, on which renewal buds are located.

Such roots have to be dug out with great difficulty, since in a peony they are fragile and brittle in themselves, and in older bushes they also go into the ground by at least 80 cm.
It is necessary to rejuvenate the bush, otherwise there will be more foliage and diseases every year, and the flowers themselves will become less and less, and those that have blossomed will become smaller and fade faster.
It is necessary to start rejuvenating the peony bush from the second decade of August to mid-September, and in warm autumn - until the end of the month.
Around the bush at a distance of 20-25 cm, it is necessary to dig a deep, 2 spade bayonet, trench.

After that, start rocking the bush with a crowbar until it is completely out of the ground.
Lightly clean the roots of the soil and remove the bush from the hole.
Leave for 3-4 hours so that the roots wilt and are not so brittle.
Then cut the stems to a height of 10 cm, wash the roots from the ground with water and clean with a wooden peg.

When to divide a peony bush

As a rule, old bushes are divided using a stake.
It is hammered into the place of the root where the kidneys are least damaged.
This stake breaks the bush into 2 parts or more.
Then each of them is cut into pieces with a sharp knife.
At the same time, preference is given to younger parts with roots with a diameter of 3-4 cm.

All diseased and old parts with darkened tissue, small buds must be cut out, and the roots broken during division should also be removed.
What size should each part of the divided bush be?
A delenka with 2-3 renewal buds and a part of a young root 10 cm long is considered standard.
In order not to wait for a small bush to turn into a lush one, leave one bigger division, let the rest be standard.
It will take only 2 years after planting, and they will also delight you with magnificent flowering.

We divided the bush, now we need to prepare for planting.
The roots of the divisions should be immersed for half an hour in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate, and then sprinkled with crushed charcoal on the cuts.
Now the young peonies are ready for planting.
Each delenka is planted in a hole 50 cm deep, about half filled with garden soil.
The bush is watered and placed so that the buds on the root neck are 2.5-5 cm below ground level.

But if the pit was prepared on the day of planting (and not 3 weeks before, as expected), the kidneys are located just below the soil level: when the earth settles, they will be at the desired depth.
At the same time, the bush must be lightly spud so that the buds are covered with earth.
We talk in such detail about the deepening of the renewal buds because their incorrect placement is the most common mistake when planting, and it is this that leads to poor flowering of peonies, and sometimes you can not wait for flowers at all.

So that the divided peonies do not freeze, with the onset of stable frosts, the soil around them should be sprinkled with a layer of peat of 10-12 cm, and in early spring the shelter must be raked away, otherwise the roots may be propped up.
In subsequent years, peonies will not even need such shelter; adult plants usually winter well.

​Related Articles​

Then each part is divided in half and cut with a garden knife into planting units. Remove all old, rotten parts of the rhizome, and shorten healthy roots to 12-20 cm. A standard planting unit (dividing) should have 3-5 buds and 1-2 fleshy roots.

mother bush

Reproduction of peonies by dividing the bush

The entire upper part of the bush breaks up into pieces of rhizome with root and renewal buds. The rhizome remaining after pruning is covered with garden soil mixed with compost and left until next year. The next year, on the remaining rhizome, shoots develop from dormant buds, usually non-flowering. On the next year these bushes are dug up. They very easily break up into divisions, which are planted in garden beds for growing. Thus, from one bush you can collect, as it were, a double crop. The success of reproduction in this way can only be achieved if all agrotechnical measures are observed.

The resulting delenki are washed again and inspected. Extra roots, mostly diseased, intertwined, directed upwards, are cut out. The rhizome is carefully cleaned of rot with a garden knife, trying not to damage the renewal buds. The remaining roots are shortened to 10-15 cm with a sharp knife, trying to keep the cuts smooth.

Peonies planted too deep;

Summer care consists in removing weeds, loosening, watering and fertilizing.

The pit is filled with nutritious loamy soil with the addition of 3-4 buckets organic fertilizer, 1 cup each of granulated superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 1-2 cups of ash. All applied fertilizers are thoroughly mixed with the ground. It is better to prepare the mixture 3-5 days before planting.

Peonies are propagated in several ways: by dividing bushes, layering, stem and root cuttings, renewal buds.

Peonies love well-cultivated soils. This means that the soil must be loose, nutritious, moisture-intensive, a sufficiently large layer in depth. The landing hole is made at least 60 cm deep and wide. In places with close standing ground water a mound is poured so that the water does not reach the bottom of the landing pit.

​If planting material is not planted immediately, or is intended for transportation (for sales), then such a protective layer will save the roots from drying out and rotting. During storage, the roots are sometimes moistened. Rhizomes are very well stored in sphagnum moss.

How are peonies usually planted? Most gardeners remember this beautiful flower in the spring, seeing somewhere on the market the proposed planting material. When choosing a variety, many are guided by a simple principle: "Ah, I have pink and white, I need some dark one." They plant it as soon as possible, water it sometimes and weed it. And after all, peonies grow, and even then bloom for many years! We still need to look for another such flower, so that with a royal appearance, being a favorite of a flower bed, it could grow without transplanting for decades without much difficulty! ..

​3​ ​Tools​

Planting peonies with root cuttings.

Reproduction by vertical layering

When to transplant peonies?

After cleaning and pruning the roots for dressing against root rot, the delenki are dipped for several hours in a solution of potassium permanganate of such a concentration that after liter jar with it a burning light bulb was visible (approximately 3-4 g per 10 liters of water). At a higher concentration of the solution, burns of the kidneys of renewal may occur. Every day, a fresh solution of potassium permanganate should be prepared for work. You can pre-prepare a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate in a sealed dark glassware, and then, as needed, dilute it with water to the required concentration. The method of disinfection of pion planting material with a solution is quite common. blue vitriol(100 g per 10 liters of water). In this case, it is especially important to observe the exact dosage of copper sulfate and the exposure time of the material in solution. The latter should not exceed 20-25 minutes, otherwise the delenki can get burned, which will drastically reduce root formation and can lead to the death of planting material. It should be remembered that copper sulfate cannot be diluted in galvanized dishes; only enameled containers are taken for its preparation.

Peonies propagate

In a dry summer, watering for peonies is generally important, especially during the budding period and during the intensive formation of renewal buds in August and early September. clay soils Oh, in addition, you need to put 1-2 buckets in the pit river sand. On clean sandy soils, 1-2 buckets of finely ground dry clay are added to the pit, and a layer of clay 8-10 cm thick is laid on the bottom of the pit.

Choice of landing site.

The most common and affordable way- dividing the bushes. The best time for dividing bushes is from mid-August to mid-September or early spring (late April-early May).

Site preparation.

Pits are dug in advance so that the soil settles. A layer of compost or well-rotted humus is placed at the bottom, they can be mixed with peat, dry potash-phosphorus fertilizers are added (up to 200 g per hole). The rest of the pit is covered with loose soil of medium nutritional value.

The planting depth is chosen so that the growth buds are at a depth of 5 cm from the soil surface. Every year they will grow taller and taller, and may even begin to bulge after many years. hybrid varieties grow much faster, so they are planted a little deeper.

​More experienced growers, discovering that there is a huge number of varieties of peonies that differ not only in color, but also in the shape of a flower, smell and flowering time, they begin to collect them, acquiring them in nurseries and from collectors.

Plant delenki in landing pits prepared in advance. With proper deepening, the uppermost kidney on the delenka should be 3-5 cm below the soil level.

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Peony care: propagation, watering, feeding - Good-Tips.Pro - Useful magazine

• ​Wooden stake

. Simple enough for amateurs to reproduce peonies with vertical layering. Of course, not all varieties are equally amenable to reproduction in this way. However, subject to certain rules you can get good results. It is advisable to use bushes at the age of five to eight years for vertical layering.

After disinfection, sections of the roots and places on the rhizome that have been cleaned from rot are sprinkled with crushed charcoal or a mixture of crushed charcoal and colloidal sulfur in equal parts. After such treatment, the delenki are placed in the shade for a day, so that a cork layer is formed on the cuts of the roots, which prevents the penetration of pathogenic microflora into the wounds.

dividing the bush and root cuttings, less often vertical layering, stem cuttings and seeds (the last three are laborious and require certain skills and conditions for implementation). Seeds are propagated mainly by amateur breeders when breeding new varieties. This is quite painstaking work. When grown by sowing seeds, the bushes bloom in the 6-7th year and later.

From the third year of development, i.e. from the beginning of flowering, peonies need to be fed. Especially important is the early spring top dressing with urea in the amount of 10 g under a bush in the snow or immediately after it has disappeared around the bush. In this case, fertilizers should be avoided on the neck of the bush.

In all cases, the bottom of the landing pit is covered with broken brick mixed with sand. It is very useful to lay manure on the bottom and on the sides of the landing pit. Then the pit is filled two-thirds with the prepared mixture. The upper part of the pit (about 15-20 cm) is filled with fertile soil.

Reproduction of peonies

For division, the bushes are first cut at a height of 15-20 cm, then dug out, trying not to damage its roots, which are very wide and deep. Then the earth is washed with water and carefully divided into parts with a sharp heavy knife or a pointed wooden stake. Each part should have 3-5 well-developed buds and a sufficient number of roots.

If necessary, loosen by adding peat, leafy soil, sand, or vice versa, compact sandy soils by adding clay to increase water-retaining properties. When planting a large number of peonies, it is recommended to dig trenches, planting bushes at a distance of 70 - 100 cm.

What will happen if you transplant an adult peony bush without dividing?

Today we’ll talk about how to plant peonies in order to minimize their care for many years to come, and get the maximum effect from flowering. Let's talk about varieties. herbaceous peonies and their hybrids.

Hammer

Place for planting peonies

In early spring, in April, as soon as the earth thaws and warms up, and the peony renewal buds begin to grow, they are exposed as much as possible, gently raking the soil around the bush, and a box without a bottom is placed, 50x50 cm in size, 34-40 cm high. If the bush is large, get a bigger box. A 10 cm box is filled with good garden soil mixed with compost and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1. Then prepare a soil mixture consisting of compost, garden soil and preferably rotted manure in a ratio of 1:1:1. 300-400 g of bone meal or 150 g of crushed superphosphate per box are added to the mixture.

5-6 hours before planting, the delenki should be dipped in clay talker containing both disinfectants and growth substances: copper sulphate - 50 g and heteroauxin - 2 tablets (dissolved in 10 liters of water) are mixed with clay, bringing to a pasty state. 500 g can be added to the mixture wood ash and also mix thoroughly.

Reproduction by division of bushes

Planting peonies

The second top dressing is carried out during the budding period, and the third - at the beginning of flowering. They are best carried out with full fertilizer nitrophoska at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 1 bush. And the fourth dressing should be carried out two weeks after flowering. In this case, for each bush you need to make 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and 1 glass of ash. Fertilizers are better absorbed if they are applied in dissolved form or in dry form, followed by watering.

The most important thing when landing

Since the roots of peonies are fragile and break easily, the dug roots are left in a shaded place for 2-3 hours so that they are slightly wilted.

On next year it will bloom well, but in the future, most likely, new roots will form worse, and the growth of the bush will stop. Do not forget to sign the varieties!

Do not tamp the ground around the planted bush, so as not to damage the eyes (buds) and roots.

Pruner

About the division of peonies in spring

The finished mixture is poured in layers in a box to a height of 25-30 cm as the shoots grow. From above, the soil is mulched with a layer of peat 3-4 cm in order to avoid the formation of a crust and watered with water as it dries. Outside, the boxes are sprinkled with garden soil to reduce drying out. inner soil, especially in hot weather. It is advisable to spend three outside root top dressing, as well as two or three root dressings with heteroauxin (2 tablets per 10 l) with an interval of 10-15 days. Flowers in the phase of a bursting bud are removed, preserving the leaves as much as possible.

Dipped in a mash, the delenki are put in boxes for drying on the roots of a layer of clay. The delenki processed in this way can be preserved without drying out, long time, which is sometimes used when sending pion planting material by mail. After planting, the bark protects the seedling from rot, and the growth substance (heteroauxin) stimulates the formation of a young root system. Excellent results gives also long-term storage and sending delenok to moss.

. You can divide the bushes from the age of three to four years (at an earlier age, medicinal peony and interspecific hybrids are propagated). However, better results and significantly large quantity planting material is obtained by dividing 5-7-year-old bushes. By this age, a large amount of nutrients accumulate in the rhizome of the bush, which ensures the development of young seedlings. For the mother material, it is not advisable to grow bushes older than 8 years, since, despite good growth and flowering, due to the strong rot of the underground part, the yield of high-quality planting material is reduced.

Summer peonies care

Peonies should be watered regularly, but especially before flowering at the very beginning of June, during the period of bud formation in July and secondary root growth in September, 2-3 buckets per plant.

- do not deepen the kidneys of renewal. To do this, during planting, a mound is made in the center of the pit, on which the peony roots are evenly placed. Then they are sprinkled with earth, compacting it so that there are no voids between the roots. After planting, the plants are watered abundantly, after which the roots deepen.

Sick and damaged parts of the roots during digging are removed by cutting them to a healthy place, and the wounds are covered with charcoal.

​4.3.Frequently encountered problems​

How to water peonies

When dividing the bushes, often accidentally broken pieces of rhizome are obtained. Regardless of whether they have a kidney or not, these pieces are planted on a separate bed - shkolka (a root without a kidney can activate and germinate a hidden sleeping kidney). After a couple of years, from almost every such piece of rhizome, you can get a new plant, which is subsequently transplanted to permanent place for flowering. This method is often used if it is necessary to propagate new valuable varieties. It should be borne in mind that too frequent, or even annual planting of bushes will weaken them, and flowering will stop.

peonies pruning

Most often, the variety you like is planted by dividing the bush, which should be older than 3-4 years of age, ideally - 5-7 years.

Frequently occurring problems

garden knife

• In the second half of September, the boxes are removed, the bushes are unraveled and all shoots are cut. Those of them on which renewal buds have formed are immediately planted in specially prepared ridges with light nutrient soil. For the winter, it is desirable to cover the plantings with a layer of peat or compost 5-6 cm thick. In the spring, as soon as the soil thaws, the shelter is removed. Care in the first and second years, as for young seedlings. For the second time, the same bush should be propagated in this way no earlier than 2 years later.
• If planting is not done immediately, planting material is placed in a shaded pit on ridges with good garden soil, where it can be one to one and a half months before planting. In dry weather, buried seedlings are periodically watered.
• Peony bushes intended for division are usually dug out after renewal buds form on the rhizome, before active growth and the development of small suction roots resembling white hairs begin. For climatic conditions middle lane the optimal time for digging is from August 10-15 to September 10-20. You can dig and divide peonies later (until October 5-10) depending on weather conditions summer and autumn, however, the survival rate of seedlings decreases, and the likelihood of their death increases accordingly.

good-tips.pro

To get large flowers for cutting, it is necessary to leave about half of the stems on the bushes, and leave at least 2-3 leaves on the cut stems. And on the stems left, only one bud should be left, and all side buds should be removed when they reach the size of a pea. But if you want to leave blooming peonies to decorate a garden plot, then the side buds do not need to be removed, because they will extend the flowering period of plants. After subsidence of the earth (I repeat - after subsidence), the root neck should be at a depth of no more than 5 cm, otherwise the plants will not bloom well in the future. If the planted bushes are below or above this mark, then they are raised or lowered to the desired depth. This is the most important agricultural technique when planting peonies and the correct implementation of it must be treated very carefully.

When planting, delenki are disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. If the landing of the plots was not carried out immediately, then they are placed in a shaded pit, where they are up to 1 month. Why are peonies attractive? Firstly, a huge variety of shapes and colors of flowers, high decorativeness of bushes for a long time, long flowering period, durability of cut flowers.

​The timing of transplanting peonies may vary depending on your climatic conditions.​
Carefully dig out the root, cut the stems at a height of 10-15 cm above the level of the roots, and put them in the shade for drying for several hours so that the roots become less fragile.

After planting, water the plant abundantly and mulch with humus or peat.

shovel

Source http://gryadochka.narod.ru/fl_pioni5.html
Reproduction by root cuttings with a kidney.

After digging, the bushes are washed with a stream of water and put in the shade for drying for 5-6 hours, after which the roots become less brittle and do not break when divided. The stems are cut at a height of 10-15 cm from the rhizome and immediately, in order to avoid confusion, tags with the name of the variety are tied to them. For dividing, a set of tools is prepared in advance: knives, chisels, pruners, chisels, other cutting tools and sharpen them carefully.

In terry peonies, the stems cannot always hold flowers, so props are installed near the bush during the budding period.

Make a hole around the bush and fill it with 1-2 buckets of water. Water every 2-3 days for 2-3 weeks depending on the weather. Then the hole is mulched with peat or humus with a layer of 2-3 cm.

Peonies can be planted as single specimens on the lawn, in groups according to the color of the flowers. An excellent addition to them are early spring bulbs - muscari, scilla, tulips. For successful growth and abundant flowering, peonies should be placed on open sunny places, because in the shade they do not bloom at all.
Secondly, the excellent adaptability of colors to different climatic conditions. They are not afraid harsh winters and grow well in dry areas.​

​Most the best time for transplanted peonies to take root in mid-latitude conditions - in autumn, from mid-August to mid-September, taking into account weather conditions. But keep in mind - the later the plants are transplanted (for example, in October), the less likely they have time to take root and survive.

The roots of an adult peony are quite massive, strongly intertwined, and for their careful division you will have to tinker fairly. You can initially try to break the bush with your hands into several parts, but still without helpers cutting tools indispensable. Source
Watering can

​Galina Dyakova Photos used: Bonnier Publications LLC / Oleg Kulagin, Bonnier Publications Publishing House​

A root cutting with a bud is a piece of rhizome with a small adventitious root and, as a rule, with one renewal bud. Most often, reproduction by root cuttings of the milky-flowered peony is used in cases where they strive to get fast flowering, but a large amount of planting material, for example, when propagating new, especially valuable varieties. In this case, the yield of planting material is several times higher than with conventional division.​

The standard planting unit for peonies is a delenka with three to five renewal buds per rhizome and several adventitious roots. When dividing, divisions with one or two kidneys are inevitably formed. Such divisions are considered non-standard - they require special care when growing, as the probability of their death is higher. The cultivation of such divisions in special "schools" will be discussed below.

Many gardeners often complain that their peonies do not bloom, although visible reasons for this no. And yet, there may be several such reasons: Some gardeners divide peony bushes in the spring. However, at the same time, plants form few young suction roots, develop poorly and often get sick. But if it is still necessary, then the transplant should be done early, as soon as the soil thaws.

Peonies do not tolerate close proximity to the roots of trees and grasses, they cannot be planted near houses, because proximity to the building creates an unfavorable microclimate for them: dryness, overheating. Also, peonies suffer from drops from the roof and snow blockages near houses.

Peonies are powerful plants. In the widespread variety of the Maxim Festival on well-fertilized loamy soils, the stems reach a height of 1.5 m. Powerful fleshy roots in one-year bushes go to a depth of 40 cm, and in six-year-olds - up to 80 cm and form a mass of thin roots. Accordingly, they also spread in width.

Often peonies are transplanted in the spring. It is necessary to have time to do this before the growth of the kidneys, immediately after the snow melts. Paradoxically, people most often transplant peonies by dividing after they begin to grow, and as a result, they get weak, sickly plants that bloom much later than those transplanted in the fall.

When dividing the rhizome, it is very important to keep the proportions so that each resulting division has from 3 to 5 buds, and a sufficient number of small adventitious roots. Each part is thoroughly washed, preferably in running water, is being looked at. Rotten, broken and too protruding parts are cut out. The slices are then soaked in disinfectant(potassium permanganate, copper sulfate), after all the cuts are sprinkled with ash or crushed coal, it is possible with an admixture of colloidal sulfur (1: 1), and placed for another day for further drying and overgrowing of wounds with a cork layer, so as not to infect them when planting.

Reproduction of peonies. Master Class

Peony-perennial herbaceous plant. The aerial part (up to 1.5 m high) consists of a large number of stems with

The simplest and most common way to propagate peonies is to divide the bush. Best timing for this - from the end of August to the end of September.​

All prepared operations are performed as in the previous method. However, it is advisable to carry out operations for the preparation, processing and planting of seedlings as early as possible and complete by the end of August. The difference is that the rhizome is cut into as many units as possible, each with buds and a small root 1-3 cm long. Good results on the rooting of such divisions (80-85 / 6) are explained precisely by the fact that the existing piece of root and rhizome provides the kidney with a supply of nutrients.

• Dividing bushes, especially older than 4-5 years, requires some experience and skills. By this time, pions have formed a massive and tangled root system, therefore, before starting the division, you should carefully examine the bush and try to understand all its intricacies. The main thing is to determine with what roots this or that part of the rhizome will depart after dissection. In a delenka, it is desirable to observe the proportion between the number of buds and the volume and number of adventitious roots: the more buds, the greater should be both the volume and the number of adventitious roots. If it is wrong to choose the lines of dissection of the rhizome, then it may turn out that a large number buds will correspond to an insufficient number of roots and vice versa. As a result, it will not be possible to obtain a significant number of standard divisions.​

Peony bushes have not been divided or replanted for a long time. And although they can grow and bloom for a very long time in one place, after 8-10 years they get tired and require a transplant;

• Planted parts of the bush with 4-5 stems and well-formed buds may bloom the next year, but this should not be allowed in order to better development plants. And small divided parts with 1-2 buds and weak roots can bloom only 3-4 years after planting.
• The best soils for peonies are loamy, without stagnant autumn and spring waters. But they can grow well on any cultivated soils. Great importance has soil preparation.​
• Depending on the structure of the flower, peonies are divided into non-double, Japanese, anemone, semi-double and double. In turn, terry peonies, depending on the location of the petals, are divided into pink, crown-shaped and hemispherical.
• In the spring, only young 1-2-year-old bushes can be transplanted without dividing along with a clod of earth.
• Before planting, they are dipped into a special talker made from clay, ash, heteroauxin (2 tablets per 10 liters of water), it is possible with the addition of copper sulfate (50 g per 10 liters), and dried.
• large leaves and flowers. This part dies off every year. The underground part is represented by a perennial rhizome formed due to the thickening of the basal parts of the shoots, and two types of roots. The first are perennial thick, tuberous storage roots with brown tones. They contain a large supply of nutrients, are formed due to the thickening of adventitious roots growing on the stem underground part of the bush. The second are small white, annually dying suction roots. They are the most active part of the root system and provide the plant with water and nutrients. Peony roots have two periods of growth and formation. In the spring in April - May adventitious roots are formed and along almost the entire length of the adventitious roots there are numerous suction roots. After flowering, when growth basically ends, nutrients are deposited in adventitious roots, they thicken, turn into thick storage ones. Due to these reserves, the above-ground system develops rapidly in the spring of next year. The second period of enhanced root growth occurs in August-September. At this time, adventitious roots are almost not formed, but appears big number suction.​

The division and transplantation of pions should be carried out before the massive formation of suction roots, since they are severely damaged during digging and division. Peony roots penetrate to a depth of 1 m. underground part the bush does not die off in winter, here at the base of the shoots on the rhizome there are many buds. The laying of new buds of renewal occurs in the axils of the integumentary scales of large buds. In an adult plant, at least two years pass from the initiation of a bud in the axil of the maternal bud scales to the formation of a rudiment of a flowering shoot in it. Bud growth occurs in July after the end of the period of intensive growth of shoots and flowering and is carried out due to the nutrients produced by the leaves of flowering shoots. By the end of October, a stem germ is formed in the buds, and flower elements in the largest ones, up to the rudiments of the stamens, part of the kidneys remains dormant. The development of renewal buds depends on the state of the whole plant, on weather conditions during several growing seasons.

In late August - early September, the time comes for dividing and planting old peony bushes and planting newly acquired plants.

It happens that you need to transplant an adult specimen. If you just dig it up and move it to a new place, many thin shoots form and the plants stop blooming. Therefore, large peonies will have to be rejuvenated: divided into smaller parts, and for very old ones, at the same time, remove fragments of old rhizomes.

extract the roots

To dig an overgrown bush, cut the stems to 2/3 of the height and tie them up, and then dig the peony around with a shovel at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the shoots to a depth of 30-40 cm. Carefully remove upper layer soil, and cut the long roots from below. The easiest way to remove a peony from the ground is with two shovels or a shovel and a crowbar. Lay the bush on its side and gently scrape the soil off with a pointed stick or hose it down with water.

Freshly dug roots break easily, so let them wilt slightly in the shade (for 2-3 hours) before dividing. It is more convenient to do this on the table, using a small wooden block for support, a sharp garden knife, scalpel, pruner, chisel, hammer, etc. To begin with, completely remove the remnants of the stems. Shorten the thick roots of peonies of the milky-flowered group to 10-12 cm, and for interspecific hybrids leave a length of about 20 cm, that is, as dug. Cut roots 1 cm thick or less to 3-5 cm. If possible, completely remove the old root with which the delenka was once planted.

Share according to the rules

Inspect the root system from all sides. First, take care of what is easier to separate: for example, parts attached to the rhizome from the side or from above. Another option is to cut the visible bridges between the thick roots. Then it will be seen how to proceed further. If the choice is difficult, you will have to carefully cut the rhizome in half with a chisel and a hammer, without hitting the kidneys.

Try to separate old copies in a different way. Hammer a pointed stake into the center of the bush from above and, gently rocking, separate large pieces that are already divided more easily.

Clean the delenki from rotten and old parts of the rhizomes, dry the cuts and rub with ash or crushed charcoal. It is better to wait with planting so that the sections cork - hold them for 7-10 days in boxes with slightly damp moss.

The task of optimization

Choose a sunny, ventilated place for planting peonies. Shading should not be more than 3-4 hours a day. In the shade, peonies grow, but almost do not bloom. Don't put them under big trees and in areas with high level groundwater, in flooded spring floods and heavy rains lowlands. Soils are preferably loamy, neutral or alkaline.

It is better to prepare a pit in a few weeks, 40-50 deep and 60-70 cm wide. Make up the soil mixture from garden soil, deoxidizer (200 g of dolomite flour or wood ash), two-year-old humus, manure (last year, better than horse), biohumus. To improve the structure of clay soils, add sand, for sandy soils - clay. Also add 1-2 tablespoons of superphosphate and complex to the pit. mineral fertilizer with low nitrogen content. Fill the hole with the prepared mixture to 3/4 of the height, compact, water and leave until planting.

Plant first early varieties followed by middle and late. At a temperature of about 10 ° C, they take root in 20-30 days and have time to adapt to winter.

When planting, lay the division on top of the substrate and cover it with clean garden soil without fertilizers, which can be taken from the beds where vegetables grew. Lightly compact the soil with your hands so that the buds are at a depth of 3-5 cm from the surface of the earth. A plant that is too deep will develop poorly, so I advise you to use a bar or ruler to control the level. Don't forget to put a tag with the name of the variety.

In the first years of life, peonies must develop a strong root system in order to give luxurious flowering in the future. So next year, no matter how much you want to see how new peony, overcome this desire and be sure to pick off the buds.

Galina Kruglova, peony collector

Instruction

You need to separate the bush if it has been growing in one place for more than 5 years. This is necessary because the old plant has a very dense, intertwined root system, which is very difficult to dig out. The earlier the division of the bush, the easier it will be to cope with this task. If the separation is not carried out, the plant will eventually begin to hurt, and flowering will stop.

It is better to carry out this procedure in the second decade of August until mid-September. Around the plant at a distance of 20 cm, dig a trench for two bayonets of a shovel. Gently rock the plant different sides we take it out of the ground. Shake off the roots a little from excess soil and leave the plant for 3 hours. This is necessary so that the roots become soft and do not break during subsequent planting. Then the roots should be washed with water and cleaned of dirt residues with a wooden peg. The stems of the bush must be cut to a height of 10 cm.

Usually, old peony bushes are divided in half with a stake. It must be carefully hammered into those places of the plant where the buds are least damaged, and the peony should be divided into two parts. Each of the divided parts is cut with a knife into pieces. At the same time, the best parts of the bush are left - young ones with thick roots up to 4 cm in diameter. All broken, diseased and old parts must be removed by cutting them with a knife or secateurs. After all the work done, leave the divisions with a dense root up to 10 cm and 2-3 young buds.

When the bush is divided, it must be prepared for planting. Place the roots of the delenki in a 1% solution of manganese for half an hour, and then sprinkle the cut points with crushed coal. After that, the young peonies are ready for planting.

In order not to wait for a long time when the peony will please its abundant flowering, you need to leave one division higher, and the rest standard size. After planting, the peony will begin to bloom magnificently in the second year.

Depending on how many divisions you got, that's how many holes you need to dig. The depth of the pit for planting is at least 50 cm. The pit must be half filled with garden soil and watered abundantly. It is necessary to place the bush in a hole in such a way that the buds on the root neck are located 3-5 cm below ground level. The deepening of the bush must be carried out correctly and carefully, since the flowering of the peony in the future depends on this.

So that the planted bushes do not freeze during the onset of cold weather, the soil around them is sprinkled dense layer 10-12 cm of peat. In early spring the shelter must be raked out so that the roots do not prop up. In subsequent years, the plant will not need shelter for the winter; adult peony bushes tolerate winter well.

Peonies are noble and lucky flowers, one of the most attractive on garden plot.

No wonder the ancient Greeks were actively engaged in the reproduction of peonies, considering these beautiful centenarians (flowers bloom profusely and luxuriantly for many decades) as powerful amulets against evil spells, protectors from adversity and misfortune.

The kings of the garden plot begin to smell fragrant in the last month of spring and delight us with their lush bloom until the middle of summer.

There is no such thing as too much beauty! How to propagate exquisite flowers?

Seedlings of these wonderful flowers are quite expensive.

Therefore, if we want to plant more bushes of this plant in our garden, let's master the reproduction of peonies ourselves.

The topic of our today's article will be the reproduction of peonies in several main ways.

It's time to deal with this interesting and important issue.

One question, multiple solutions

Propagating handsome men is not at all difficult. This procedure is done in several ways.

Choose the most convenient and decorate the garden!

Division of the rhizome

Propagation of peonies by dividing underground shoots is the most common and basic method.

Plant rhizomes are long underground shoots. It is on them that the eyes (or buds of renewal) are laid, which give rise to future shoots.

Peony rhizomes also have powerful adventitious roots, they become the custodians of nutrients for a beautiful flower.

Small roots regularly grow on adventitious roots, they have the function of "pumps", intensively absorbing minerals from the ground that are useful for peony growth.

Attention! perfect time for reproduction of a handsome garden by dividing the rhizome - until the period of active mass growth of the roots of the "pumps".

In the conditions of the Russian middle zone, this period occurs twice a year:

• Spring (last days of April-beginning of May).
• Summer (end of August-beginning of September).

But have time to do it before September 10-15! After all, tender peony seedlings should have time to take root before the onset of autumn frosts.

And the reproduction of peonies by rhizomes in spring time, according to knowledgeable people undesirable.

Young sapling, customized spring bloom, it can simply go into the active growth phase too quickly, without having time to take root properly.

Such a plant in the first year of life will develop poorly.

Before engaging in a responsible procedure, know that peonies of 3-4 years of life are suitable for root division.

Their roots are easier to dig up and divide.

How to do it:

• At the intended flower, we cut off all the stems and remove the soil around the bush.
• Carefully remove the peony root, trying not to damage the adventitious roots.
• Carefully remove the soil from the surface of the roots and then wash off the remaining soil with a hose from the hose so that the buds are better visible.
• Flower rhizomes are placed for several hours in a dry, darkened place to dry. During this time, the remaining soil will crumble, and the main rhizome will become more elastic.
• We cut adventitious roots, leaving only 10-12 cm of their length.
• With a sharp knife (or secateurs), we cut the roots, trying to strike a balance between their volume and the number of eyes (buds). Ideally, the plot will have 1-2 adventitious roots (10-12 cm long) and 2-3 developed eyes. Make sure that adventitious roots are at least a centimeter in diameter.
• Thoroughly clean all rotten places to a good (healthy) plant tissue, do not forget to sprinkle the cuts with crushed charcoal.

Soak ready-made plots for breeding peonies for 2-3 days for fresh air in a shady spot to dry the wounded sections.

Plots can be stored long time by digging the roots into the sand or moss.

cuttings

Propagation of garden kings by cuttings is a troublesome and long process.

The flowers obtained in this way begin to bloom, with good agrotechnical care, after 3-4 years.

Cuttings justify themselves when especially valuable varieties of garden beauties are propagated, or if it is necessary to completely refresh and renew the plant.

Also, this method of reproduction is appropriate if it is necessary to obtain the maximum number of planting material.

There are two ways to propagate peonies by cuttings: root and stem.

Root cuttings

A peony root cutting is a small piece of a plant's rhizome with one root and a sprout eye.

It is best to harvest these pieces after the buds ripen and before the formation of small roots. This is approximately from the end of July to mid-September, depending on the region of growth.

For root cuttings, you can also use segments and fragments of roots that remain from dividing the peony bush during the first method of reproduction.

Steps of our actions:

• We carefully dig out the plant, clean it from rot, old roots, dirt.
• We divide the rhizome into pieces at least 5 cm long. In this case, each cutting must have its own root and bud-eye.
• We disinfect pieces of cuttings for propagating peonies by soaking for 90-120 minutes in a solution of manganese (3-4 g of potassium permanganate per bucket of water).
• Wait for the plots to dry, and then roll them in crushed charcoal. Leave young cuttings sprinkled with coal for the whole night. We need to wait for the formation of a crust on fresh cuts. Sections can also be treated with a solution of heteroauxin (0.01%), keep the cuttings in the substance for 15-16 hours.
• Now the peony cuttings are ready for planting. They should be planted on fertile, fertile soil at a distance of 20-22 cm between plantings, placing the cuttings 4-5 cm deep.
• Care for young seedlings, protect from the scorching sun, water and regularly remove weeds.
• On the winter period cover the flowers carefully.

In the spring, the first shoots should appear. But even if sprouts do not appear, do not rush to dig up the landing site.

After all, at good care Renewal buds may still form during the summer and germinate the following spring.

In such conditions, our seedlings will grow up to 2 years.

They can then be placed at pre-selected permanent residences on the site. Well, the plants will begin to bloom after 2-3 years.

Gardener's advice. Not all varieties of peonies are able to grow growth buds on adventitious roots. Root cuttings are possible only in some hybrids (Karina, Baroness Schroeder, Carol, Cowley, Helen) and in medicinal peony.

stem cuttings

By stem cuttings, gardeners breed the most valuable types of flowers if the amount of planting material is limited or if you don’t want to disturb the root system of the plant once again.

Stem cuttings are a troublesome and far from always successful method; it is not suitable for the propagation of interspecific hybrids.

The survival rate of stem cuttings is rather low and, therefore, they need to be harvested more. The best time to carry out these works is 7-9 days before the peony blooms and during the flowering period.

For reproduction use adult flowers aged from 5 years. In this way, up to 15-20% of the stems can be taken from one peony bush without causing damage to the plant (the older the flower, the more cuttings you can get from it).

So what do we do:

• We carefully cut the peony stems from the middle of the plant bush near the ground, or even better, carefully tear them off with a quick movement, pulling them out with the "root" - the underground part of the mother plant. Up to 2-3 cuttings are harvested from one stalk.
• We divide the stems with secateurs into separate cuttings (each plot must have two internodes).
• At the bottom we cut off each cutting under the leaf (the leaf itself is removed). We leave 1-2 cm above the upper cut, and cut off the top leaf by 1/3.
• We soak the lower cut of the cuttings in a solution of Kornevin, Epin, indolylbutyric acid or Heteroauxin (root stimulants). Immerse the cuttings in a solution of the substance by 5-5.5 cm and hold for 2-2.5 hours (at a solution concentration of 100-120 mg per liter of water).
• For rooting, pick up a bed hidden from the sun. Dig it up and fill it with compost. Sprinkle clean sand (5-6 cm) on top.
• We bury the cuttings in the sand at a slight slope. They should be placed at a depth of 4-4.5 cm with a distance of 8-10 cm.
• Above each bed, install a membranous or glazed shelter.

If you decide to grow cuttings in a greenhouse, ensure tender plants high humidity.

If a humidifier is not available, spray your pets with plenty of water three times a day.

And regularly ventilate the greenhouse, starting from the third week of planting cuttings (at first, ventilate for 20-25 minutes, slowly increase the ventilation time to 3 hours).

Make sure that the temperature does not exceed + 25⁰ C (the condition of the cuttings will worsen if overheated).

Don't let the soil dry out! Weekly prevent your pets from fungal diseases (water peonies with a weak manganese solution).

Before the onset of cold weather, cover the landings with foliage, brushwood, chopped straw or small sawdust.

And at the beginning of spring, remove the protection and transplant the established cuttings very carefully to a permanent place of residence.

Reproduction by pruning

This method of reproduction of peonies is perhaps the most economical and promising.

Using it, we can get planting material twice a year.

So, for example, in the spring (as soon as the snow melts and the earth thaws), we rake the ground around the bush to a depth of 10-20 cm.

Then carefully cut with a sharp shovel upper part rhizomes with all visible renewal buds. We make a cut approximately 5-7 cm below the kidneys.

The top of our bush separated in this way easily breaks up into pieces of rhizome with root and renewal buds.

From one 5-7-year-old bush, you can get up to 20-50 excellent cuttings.

We fall asleep the rhizome remaining after pruning fertile soil and mulch with a 10-centimeter layer of sawdust.

By autumn, our cut bush will recover due to dormant buds. And from it it will be possible, if desired, to get another 3 to 10 beautiful divisions.

Pruning a peony bush can be successfully done in the fall. So that the delenki have time to take root, we do this in early September.

Reproduction by layering

One of the oldest and simple ways reproduction of handsome peonies.

There are several ways to do this vegetative propagation. But the most common is Chinese.

At the same time, peony bushes are completely preserved. We do not dig them up and do not divide them, but simply spud them.

It is best to use bushes 5-8 years old.

We act like this:

• In early spring, as soon as the earth thaws and warms up, and the renewal buds begin to grow, we will rake the ground from the bush, exposing the buds.
• We put a box on top without a bottom. The size of the box depends on the size of our bush.
• We sprinkle the box from the sides with earth so that the resulting young roots do not dry out.
• Next, we fill the box with 10 cm, fill it with good garden soil, mixing it with compost and sand (2: 1: 1).
• Then, as the shoots grow, we will add the following soil mixture to the box in layers: compost (1 part), garden soil(1 part), rotted manure (1 part). It is good to add 300-400 g of bone meal or 150 g of crushed superphosphate per 1 box to the mixture.
• We will add the mixture to a height of approximately 25-30 cm.
• We pinch the formed buds. Leaves are preserved as much as possible.
• We water regularly. The main thing is to prevent the soil from drying out.
• By autumn, our layering will be ready for planting in school. We remove the box and carefully rake the ground. Rooted shoots with a kidney are cut off and planted on a prepared bed for further growing. Closer to frost, young peonies are plentifully spudded with peat, brushwood or straw.

Peonies can be placed on permanent beds in the garden plot a couple of years after landing on the "kindergarten" garden.

Reproduction by seeds

Seed propagation of luxurious flowers is rarely used by amateur gardeners. Why?

Peonies are valued in the garden for their gorgeous flowers, but seedlings are obtained only from hybrids propagated by breeders by dividing the bush.

Peony seed propagation is mainly used in the cultivation of thin-leaved or evasive species (wild flowers).

And such varieties of peonies as terry, milky-flowered do not give seeds at all, if they are formed, then in minimal quantities.

To evaluate the result of propagation of flowers by seeds and enjoy luxurious flowering, you will have to wait 5-6 years.

But even in this case, the original brightness of the shades of the petals and terry may disappear.

To succeed in seed propagation, you need to know some tricks and have certain skills.

Seed feature. Peonies are characterized by very low seed germination.

This feature is a consequence of the presence of a too dense seed coat, the embryo hardly absorbs micronutrients from the soil.

from seed beautiful plant decorative qualities possesses only 1/5 part, and half of the sown seeds do not germinate at all. Peony seeds have very low enzymatic activity.

Most seeds germinate only in the second year, and the seeds tree varieties only for 3-5 years.

These properties from seeds are transferred to young plants. Peonies propagated by seeds have a slow growth, and begin to bloom only at 6-7 years of age.

To speed up the appearance of young flowers, gardeners use the method of phased stratification (acceleration of seed awakening processes) during seed propagation of peonies.

We prepare the seeds. To stock up good seeds peonies, heed the advice of experienced gardeners:

• Seeds for sowing must be collected before they are fully ripe. Mature seeds "fall asleep" and are practically unable to get out of this state.
• The best time to collect seeds from a box is the second decade of August until the very beginning of September days. If you skip this period, the pampered seeds may become rotten or moldy.

The peony seed box is a light green star-shaped fruit.

Collect the seeds at the moment when this box begins to "disperse" along the seams. In order for the leaflet to fully mature, leave 7-8 flowers on the plant, do not cut them.
Peony seeds are varied in color (they can be yellowish, beige, brownish).

They are glossy and rounded, and the shell is supple, smooth and soft to the touch. Their size varies from variety and is 0.5-1 centimeter.

Tree peonies have the largest seeds.

If you decide to buy seeds in a store for breeding peonies, it would be useful to find out the recommendations of experienced flower growers:

• Don't buy seeds if their shell is hardened or shriveled. Discard such planting material immediately.
• When buying, consider the location of the nursery. The closer the growing area of ​​\u200b\u200bflowers, the greater the guarantee that their seeds will sprout on your site.

Stratification of peony seeds. The two-stage stratification method will speed up the germination time of seeds and see young sprouts as early as next year.

Stratification is carried out by two methods in turn:

• Thermal. Peony seeds are sown in moistened sand in a shallow dish. A container with sown seeds is placed on heating pad to warm up the sand to +30⁰ C. After some time, the sand is cooled and then heated again. Crops should be regularly moistened. The first phase of stratification lasts for 2-2.5 months (until the seeds burst with the formation of roots).
• Kholodovoy. Such stratification is necessary for seed propagation of pions to activate the growth points of the shoot embryo. Germinated seeds are removed from the sand container and placed on peat pots, slightly sprinkled with soil. Seedlings are kept at a temperature of + 5-10⁰ C. Usually this phase lasts about 3 months. But you can speed up the process. To do this, open the seeds before planting. We need to moisten the hypocotyl (this is a piece of the stalk located immediately below the cotyledons). Marlechka, impregnated with a 0.01% growth stimulator solution, is placed on the hypocotyl, covered with a dark cloth from above. With the right process, the growth bud and the first leaves will appear in a week.

Care of young seedlings. After completion of all stages of stratification for seed propagation peonies seedlings are transferred to a warm place, where they are kept at a temperature of + 16-18⁰ C.

Young peonies are kept warm until May (until they are transferred to the site).

Seed peonies, planting. In the garden, young plants are planted in early May.

For flowers, we choose a darkened place and plant at a distance of half a meter between plantings, placing seedlings 2-3 cm.

Before planting a bush, planting pits 50x50 cm are prepared.

A young peony is placed in a hole so that the neck of the root is at ground level, and covered with a mixture of earth.

Add superphosphate, potassium sulfate and dolomite flour(150-200 g each).

The soil near the flowers is well mulched with straw and sawdust. Mulch stores vital moisture for the flower and prevents arrogant weeds from growing.

Be sure to spray with Bordeaux liquid (0.05%) to prevent seedlings from being affected by gray rot. It is desirable to carry out processing 2 times with an interval of 2-3 weeks.

What do our tender peony seedlings love?

• Morning rays of the warm sun.
• Shade of a spreading tree.
• Eastern areas of the garden.
• Regular watering, loosening and weeding.

Remember that the peony has a very powerful and well-developed root system (it goes almost a meter deep into the soil).

Try to save more plant roots during bush division.

• To carefully dig a peony, first make a groove around the bush and dig the flower from below. Then, using two shovels, very carefully remove the plant, holding it by the leaves, and place it on a platform with a drain.
• Wash the dug peonies immediately with clean water from a hose. Try not to move the bushes so as not to damage the fragile roots. After washing, the flowers are dried for 3-4 hours (we need to wait until the roots are slightly wilted).
• As soon as the roots dry, finally free them from the soil and rinse with water.
• When propagating peonies by bush division, try not to artificially cut the roots, but delicately separate them at the jumpers.

Before the event, carefully examine the peonies; diseased plants are not subject to reproduction.

Powder the places where the bush was cut with crushed charcoal. Then the plots are planted. It is better to do this in the fall (but earlier it was believed that it was better to dig the cuttings until spring).

But still, do not keep the cuttings in the winter, but plant them in the fall. After all, the development of small roots-pumps occurs in the very first month after disembarkation.

Our peonies will have time to get stronger and take root before spring, so that in the spring period they will immediately begin to grow intensively, gradually turning into a new healthy plant.

When propagating peonies with any method, in the first couple of years of life in flowers, it is necessary to trim the buds.

This event encourages active growth flower and rapid flowering further.

We learned a lot about beautiful peonies, about them and their reproduction, but not all. What are the features of growing tree peonies, ito-hybrids? What diseases and pests annoy our pets? These questions are yet to be explored.

In the meantime, I propose to watch a video about the reproduction of peonies by dividing the bush.

See you soon, dear readers!