How to place an orchard on the site. Layout of a vegetable garden and orchard: from a drawing to planting crops in examples. Distance between plants

“For this hell, for this nonsense, send me a garden for my old age.” But in order to meet old age in a beautiful orchard, you need to plant it now. In this article, we will tell you which trees to plant on the site, how to place them correctly and how FORUMHOUSE participants do it.

• At what distance to plant fruit trees and shrubs.
• Where to plant non-self-pollinated plants.
• How fruit crops depend on the sun and wind.
• On what slopes to plant fruit trees.

Distance between plants

According to science, an orchard is set up in a place protected from the wind and well lit by the sun, ideally if the plants are spacious.

Large-sized apple trees are planted at a distance of 6-15 meters from each other, standard cherries and plums - 1.5-3 meters.

In this photo, the distance between the trees is 5 meters.

To properly position garden plantings, it is necessary to observe the distance not only between plants, but also between plants and the neighboring plot. For trees in an orchard, it is usually half the row spacing. If the row spacing is six meters, then the distance to the border with the neighboring plot is three meters. Fruit bushes are allowed to be planted at a distance of 70-80 cm. In order not to make a mistake with planting, it is better to first draw a garden plan.

But in reality, there are not so many huge plots with unlimited resources for planting large-sized apple trees, so no one can withstand a distance of 15 meters between each tree. In practice, it turns out that successful cultivation adhere to this condition when planting planting material and optional.

Palyonka Member of FORUMHOUSE

In practice, it is necessary to plant 5 m apart, if you estimate that each will have a crown measuring 2.5 meters in diameter. But whether your specific garden plots allow you to arrange the plants in this way is another question.

Landing fruit trees and shrubs in the garden on your site, you can refer to our table.

At what distance is it better to place fruit crops in a garden plot

Tall pears and apple trees on a seed rootstock are planted according to the 5x5 scheme (at a distance of at least 5 meters in a row and 5-6 between rows), medium-sized apple trees according to the 4X4 scheme, semi-dwarfs according to the 3X3 scheme.

Raspberries can be divided into two parts, leaving between them a fence no more than a meter wide: in one, plant ordinary varieties, in the other - remontant. They're in different time bear fruit, and their agricultural techniques are different.

It will be optimal to plant trees and shrubs in the garden in a checkerboard pattern, especially if you set up a garden in the "roadside" part of the garden and want to hide the house or recreation area from the views of neighbors. By the way, green spaces reduce the noise level, this property must be used.

Andrey Vasiliev, consultant of the "Orchard" section of FORUMHOUSE, is planting plums and bush cherries on the site at a distance of three meters between the trees. Currant and gooseberry bushes - at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from one another, a meter is not enough.

Andrey Vasiliev Consultant of the "Orchard" section on FORUMHOUSE

You can also plant between the trees, while they grow, the berry bearer is already bearing fruit, and it will not be difficult to transfer (chopping off a part from the bush in the fall) if the variety is already very good.

The consultant of our portal recommends planting raspberries "separately, but not in the shade." And when planting honeysuckle, he advises not to forget that her bushes grow quite large - two meters in diameter and the same height, and place them on the site, taking into account these sizes.

Another important point, which must be taken into account when planting in the garden on the site of fruit plants - whether they are self-pollinated or not. If not, you must enter landing plan and be sure to plant a plant of a different variety nearby.

SB3 Member FORUMHOUSE

We plant a self-pollinated cherry with the name Y and next to it the same one with the name Z. If the Y cherry is alone next to the pears, there will be no berries.

toliam1 FORUMHOUSE Consultant

It is better to plant fruit trees in the form of a “tree-garden”, when there are several mutually pollinated varieties on one trunk.

And single-varietal breeds are best grouped by breed so that there is the possibility of cross-pollination.

Sun, wind and shadow

Shading for fruit trees is undesirable; on the site they should be maximally illuminated by the sun from morning to evening. If a gardener still has to plant a tree in partial shade, let it be a pear. A pear is the tallest fruit plant, there are practically no pears on a dwarf rootstock, therefore, no matter how much attention you pay to it, no matter how you cut it, it will grow 5-6 meters high. Therefore, it is not scary if a pear is planted next to a bathhouse, another outbuilding, and for half a day it turns out to be its shadow. In five or six years, this big tree will grow taller than the tallest building in the world. personal plot.

Fruit trees on the site are covered from the prevailing winter winds (building, fence, etc.). It’s easy to determine which direction of the wind will dominate in winter - see which side of the house has less snow (sometimes it sweeps literally to the ground). If there is not enough snow from east side, which means that the wind in winter blows mainly from the west, and so on.

Andrey Vasiliev

All tall - to the north, all the most tender - in best places under cover from the prevailing winds in winter.

It is better to plant a plum exactly where all the snow is blown out. strong winds. The plum has a tendency to decay and does not tolerate places where snow accumulates; where even a small snowdrift sweeps, a little more than 40 cm, the plum will not grow.

ground water

Fruit trees do not grow well in areas with close groundwater. For successful growth and development, apple and pear trees need a plot with a groundwater level of two meters, and preferably further. In suburban areas with close groundwater, these trees with large roots do not grow for more than 10 years and do not have time to form a large crown. Therefore, if there is no other way out, they can be planted close to each other (2 meters) and renewed in turn every 10 years. There is no other way to grow normal trees and get good enough fruit yields from them.

At stone fruits root systems do not go so deep into the depths, so they can be planted in suburban areas where ground water are located at a depth of 1.5 m and further; in berry crops, the depth may be less.

Relief and landscape planning

The best for gardens are considered to be with a steepness of less than 8 °. In most regions, the southern, southwestern and southeastern slopes are considered the best for gardening, they always have more sun and higher air and soil temperatures. But this advantage can also turn into a disadvantage: it is warmer in such areas, so in spring the plants bloom on them earlier, often in the midst of spring frosts. For this reason, fruit crops should not be planted on the eastern slopes. suburban area: after freezing, which sticks flowering plants, on the eastern slope they thaw too quickly.

Experts advise setting up gardens in the middle part of the slope, because the winds always blow above and there is not enough moisture, while below, on the contrary, it is too wet and cold. In pits and hollows, where fog flows in the morning, gardens do not need to be laid out. Cold air, which stagnates in them, is harmful to plants, these places are especially dangerous during frosts.

Where to start building your garden? How to properly arrange trees and shrubs in the country?

The garden at all times was considered a wonderful decoration of any home. And one of the wonders of the world - the Hanging Gardens of Babylon - was a truly magnificent and unique creation. These gardens were maintained around the clock by several thousand slaves. Now gardens are planted mainly in order to provide themselves with berries and fruits for the winter. It is very important to plan the garden correctly, since on a small plot of land you want to place as many various trees, shrubs, berries, etc. as possible. The yield of fruit trees depends on various factors, and therefore, when placing trees on a plot, it is necessary to take into account not only natural conditions, but also biological features each type of fruit crop.

❧ The Mesopotamian king Gilgamesh of Uruk (early 3rd millennium BC) was famous for his gardens. The courtyards were shady and had many flower beds. Fruit trees the gardens abounded with a variety of exotic varieties. Surrounded date palms pools were located. Bulls, lions, ostriches and monkeys were bred in enclosures in the far corners of the gardens.

So, for example, when placing trees on a garden plot, it must be remembered that different cultures have different requirements for light. Exists general rule for planning plants in their summer cottage. Plant height should increase from south to north. In other words, in the southernmost part of the site you need to plant vegetable crops and strawberries, and in the north - apple and pear trees. In the middle of the site, medium-sized breeds are placed, such as cherry, plum, as well as a variety of berry bushes.

In addition, when planting various fruit crops in your summer cottage, you should pay attention to the fact that in the future, when the trees grow, there is no shading of neighboring trees by them. garden plots. When planting trees on the site, observe certain rules- so, the distance from the trees to the boundaries of the site should be at least 3 m. And at a distance of 1 m from the border (fence), you can plant several bushes of raspberries, currants or gooseberries. These cultures feel good even with partial shading.

Among other things, you need to place plantings on the site in such a way that they do not interfere with the movement of air. If the area is too densely forested, then this will interfere with the outflow of cold air, which in turn will lead to difficult wintering conditions for trees. It often happens that in densely planted areas, trees and shrubs die from frosts not even in the most frosty winters.

There are two main styles of garden planning: regular (or geometric) and landscape (or natural).

With regular garden planning, plantings are placed symmetrically with respect to the main axis of the composition, while the straightness of rows and paths is also observed, and the same distances between trees of the same species are maintained. In this case, you can choose a scheme for planting fruit trees, both square and rectangular, or even place trees in a checkerboard pattern on the site. Trees planted in a checkerboard pattern make good use of solar lighting. If the site is located on a slope, then the f direction of the rows should be done across the slope. The square scheme is suitable for areas that have a square or almost square shape. Rectangular placement is suitable for areas that have an oblong configuration. There is also a variation of the rectangular scheme. It is characterized by wide-row dense planting, and in contrast to the rectangular scheme, trees are planted more densely in rows, but a fairly large space is left between the rows.

If you prefer natural style when the plants grow as they wish, then the second style of planting is suitable for you - landscape. Using this scheme, you can place plantings on your site in any way you want. Trees and plants located on the site in free style make the area more attractive. In addition, the use of landscape style provides for the widespread use of a variety of ornamental plants. landscape style very well suited for those areas that have natural bumps, small slopes and depressions, etc. All these features of the relief can be used to create an interesting landscape composition in your garden.

Thinking over what fruit trees you will plant on your site, you should pay special attention to the apple tree. In Russia, the apple tree is perhaps the main fruit crop, which is unpretentious to weather conditions and gives a rich harvest.

When choosing varieties of fruit trees, one should take into account the fact that a certain variety of any species can be grown on the site only on the condition that trees of other varieties grow in the neighborhood at a distance of no more than 50-70 m. Otherwise, pollination and fruit set will not occur in trees of the same variety.

Choosing berry crops, you can pay attention to such berries as garden strawberry, colloquially called strawberries, black, red and white currants, gooseberries, and raspberries. Strawberries are good because they reproduce easily and begin to bear fruit in the second year after planting. Currants, especially black currants, are very rich in vitamins, and therefore several bushes of this crop should grow in every garden plot. Raspberries also grow quite quickly, so if you want to get a crop of berries in the shortest possible time after breaking up the garden, then start with these crops. And if we talk about volumes (harvest), then the richest harvest is harvested from redcurrant and gooseberry bushes.

❧ Scientists have found that fruit trees that grew near heating mains develop faster and better, unlike trees of the same species and varieties that grow in other places. I wonder if it is possible to grow a garden that will produce a rich harvest in a short time if a root heating system is installed?

When planting a variety of berry crops on a garden plot, it should be remembered that they can be placed under trees only when the seedlings of fruit trees have just been planted and are still very small. As the trees grow, berry bushes should be removed from under them, as this makes pest and disease control more difficult. If any buildings are planned on the site, then it is better not to plant fruit trees or shrubs too close to the buildings. Over time, as crops grow, they can make it difficult to approach buildings, and even a low building will shade trees or shrubs, stunting their growth.

When planting fruit trees, pay attention to the fact that it is best to plant trees of each crop separately. This is necessary to optimize the control of pests and plant diseases. Since it sometimes happens that the timing of spraying trees of one species coincides with the fruiting time of other species. Considering that on the garden plot all work on the care of fruit trees is carried out manually, it is possible to leave the aisles not very wide.

When planning a garden on a personal plot, you should think carefully about all the points associated with planting fruit bushes and especially trees, because the garden is laid once and for many years.

When planning a garden, consider the following:

❧ what species of fruit bushes and trees are suitable for a given climatic region;

❧ In order not to make a mistake with plant varieties, it is best to estimate their yield in advance. This will help determine the number of seedlings;

❧ wanting to get rich harvests, you need to take into account that the placement of trees nearby different varieties one ripening period will provide cross-pollination during the flowering period, which in turn will serve as a guarantee of a good harvest in the future;

❧ best to find out compatibility information different varieties fruit trees and shrubs, since the proximity of some crops can lead to a decrease in yield;

❧ in order to avoid problems with the placement of trees on the site, you can first create a planting scheme on the plan. Draw a site plan on paper, cut out circles from another sheet of paper desired diameter, which will denote shrubs and fruit trees. So, for example, an adult apple tree of the Antonovka variety has a crown diameter of 3 m on average. This means that when planting apple trees of this variety, it is necessary to calculate at what distance fruit trees of other species or shrubs can be planted from them;

❧ It is useful to know that, as a rule, a very good microclimate is created on the southwestern side of any building, which is expressed in long-term illumination and protection from cold winds. And this means that temperature regime here it will be the most optimal for heat-loving plants;

❧ if in your area groundwater lies close to the soil surface, then use this circumstance to your advantage. On a site with a close location of groundwater, you can plant shrubs or plant a garden on it;

❧ when planting a new garden in place of the old one, it is necessary to remember about crop rotation. If you plant a young apple tree in place of an uprooted one, then it will grow poorly.

The best option is to plan ahead for planting in the garden. But if, in addition to the garden, buildings are also planned on the site, then, of course, the garden should be laid out after the construction work is completed. Otherwise, the equipment will crush the newly planted trees and raze the strawberry plantation to the ground.

Finally, you have received the long-awaited site, and now the question arose of its development. What and where should be placed? How to prepare places for the planned planting of all kinds of plants?

First, you need to define the boundaries of the territory. If you plan to immediately start building a house, it is better to put up temporary building fences. If the construction of a dwelling is not included in your initial plans, then we advise you to acquire a capital fence or fence. His choice will depend on financial capabilities, and on personal preferences.

Site preparation for development

Preparation of the site for development takes 2-3 years. First, its territory must be dug up and fertilized (with manure and mineral fertilizers). In addition, in the first year, depending on the type of soil, the site is either planted with legumes (to increase the amount of humus), which are then embedded in the soil as a fertilizer, or covered in early spring with a film with small holes (to accelerate the mineralization of substances of organic origin). At the end of the growing season of the first year, the site is dug up again to a depth of 30-40 cm.

Do-it-yourself planning of a summer cottage

Now it's time for the overall layout of the site. It depends on your personal taste and desires. But almost every gardener wants to place everything on his site: and small vegetable garden, and a garden, and a playground, and outbuildings. And along with all this, of course, the site should please the eye with its beauty and convenience. In this case, it can be recommended to allocate no more than 10-15% of the entire territory for household buildings, about 15-20% for the courtyard, 15% for the garden, 15-25% for the garden.

Planting plants on the site

To make the benefits of your garden obvious and tangible, it is better to grow a little of everything. Plant without small plot potatoes don't make sense. But growing your own cucumbers, tomatoes, herbs, etc. is a must. By placing 13-15 fruit trees of different varieties and 8-10 stone fruit trees on the site, you will get enough good harvest, which is enough for food and for winter preparations. Along the fence or instead of it, 30-40 bushes of various berries will fit compactly. When planting, try to take into account the needs of a particular type of plant, its height and fruiting period. Choose the right varieties fruit crops to always be with a well-ripened crop.

For example, if you want, then it is better to take summer, autumn, and late varieties. Summer ones include: Melba, Mantet, Lungwort, Papirovka. Autumn varieties apples: Zhigulevskoe, Oryol striped, Dolgo, etc. Winter varieties apples: Antonovka, Welsey, Minskoe, Bananove, Verbnoe, etc.

With pears, the picture is the same. summer varieties pears: Duchess, Beloruska, Ilyinka, Stundine, Bergamot, Windsor. Autumn varieties of pears: Yurate, Marble, Oily, Loshitskaya, etc. Late varieties pear: Belarusian late.

Cherry and sweet cherry. Early cherry: Early pink, Valery Chkalov, Muscat, Folk, Festival. Cherry of medium ripening: Novodvorskaya, Vyanok. Sweet cherry of average ripening: Aelita, Northern. Late cherry: Lyubskaya and Nord Star. Late cherry: Coal, Liberation.

Also complete the rest of the fruit and berry. If your site will have crops represented by early, middle and late dates ripening, you will always be with fruits and berries, even in winter.

Do not try to plant everything parallel and perpendicular to keep your site beautiful. Its beauty does not depend on straight lines, but on a well-planned design, appropriately laid out flower beds and planted flower shrubs. Even on small plot you can make a tiny pond, small area relaxation, surrounded by flowers and soft low grass. The main thing is to plan the placement of the pond and recreation area in advance, before planting trees and bushes.

It is far from always that the owners get the plots in excellent condition with dug up beds and trimmed. Basically, the new owner simply receives a plot overgrown with weeds and weeds with fruit trees and shrubs that have grown wild and began to bring completely different large and juicy fruits, which brought earlier in a well-groomed condition. However, sometimes the plot is inherited from grandparents, or they simply forget about it for a while, during which it manages to overgrow with weeds and thickets of grass as tall as a man. Of course, it is impossible to plant anything on such a site without first clearing it. The first task that faces the owner of the site is to clear the territory and prepare it for the next season.

In general, smart and diligent gardeners have long come up with many ways that allow you to quickly and efficiently develop virgin lands in order to use the land for their needs. After all, the land, which has rested for several years and is overgrown with weeds, is excellent for any planting, since it has accumulated all the necessary nutrients. It remains only to bring it into proper condition and proceed with its plan. But it sounds just like words. In fact, this is a huge work that requires a lot of time and effort. But the result is worth it.

In general, all methods of developing virgin lands can be divided into those that allow planting some plants in the first season after processing and those that do not allow this.

Radical changes

This method is considered quite simple in design and time-consuming in execution. In the process of freeing the site from thickets, it is required to remove upper layer earth, called sod, in which numerous roots intertwined. Cut layers are placed in the allotted place with the roots up and covered with a material that does not transmit light. Periodically, this pile must be treated with urea so that after a few years it turns into excellent compost.

As for the earth itself, a new layer of soil is poured over the cleared earth, which is ordered on several machines. The main thing is to know the origin of the soil and its quality. Otherwise, you risk losing money for nothing and getting a new layer of land rich in weeds and pathogens and even pests.

The simpler the better

Relatively easier than the first method, since here it is proposed to dig the site manually without removing the roots of the weeds. Another thing is that with this method you will not be able to sow a lot of things on the site for a long time. Cabbage and potatoes will come to the rescue. Cabbage is planted with seedlings, but as it grows, it will bring a powerful shadow from its leaves, as well as. This shade will cover the ground and begin to suppress the growth of weeds. In addition, periodically you will need to hill the beds, which will also help to destroy weeds.

For greater effect, mulching between rows can be done with grass clippings, manure or compost.

Useful waste paper

This very original way It will work if you follow the directions carefully. To translate it into reality, you will need rotted manure (you can chicken manure, compost or humus). This composition must be evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​​​the area being developed and covered with black and white newspaper 5-7 layers thick. If you think this is complicated, you can replace the newspaper with thick cardboard. Compost mixed with manure is poured on top of the paper layer.

The advantage of this method is that in newspapers you can make holes in which you can plant any crops grown through seedlings. This is perfect for those who do not want to wait a long time, content only with potatoes and cabbage. At the end of the season except excellent harvest cultivated crops, you will also receive a clean area, with soil enriched with vitamins and microelements.

black veil

Black film is a fairly well-known way to get rid of weeds. You can cover the entire area with it, so that under the hot summer sun a real hell will be created under it for all living plants. No weed can survive the absence sun rays and this steam room, so by the end of the season the film can be removed, and the earth dug up and feel like a winner. Alas, with this method, there is no talk of any landings in the current season.

Siderates come to the rescue (video - site planning)

Many pleasant words have been said about green manure plants, from which there are a lot of benefits. Including during the development of the site. Among all the cultures of this series, three can be distinguished that are better than others to cope with the task.

Winter rye is the first of these three helper crops that will rid the site of weeds. By itself, rye perfectly suppresses the growth of other plants, and winter rye is used for a reason. Rye seeds are planted in spring instead of autumn. Thus, the gardener is cheating a plant that will not be able to bloom during the season and does not form an ear.

You can enhance the effect if you cut the wheat several times a season without damaging the growth part of the plant. In the spring of the next season, the rye will go into the ground, and potatoes or other crops can be planted in its place, depending on how overgrown your site is.

Sunflower - much more easy job for a summer resident, but at the same time no less ruthless in relation to weeds. In early May, its seeds are planted in the ground after digging as thick as possible. When seedlings appear from the ground, other plants simply will not have a chance to survive under such pressure.

At the beginning of autumn, sunflowers can be mowed and chopped into pieces of twenty centimeters, and then thrown into the soil. During the fall, these parts will decompose and fertilize the land well, preparing it for planting new crops in the next season.

Bush beans are not only effective, but also tasty. Only it must be sown thicker than it is usually prescribed for it. A distance of 5-10 cm is maintained between plants, and 20-30 cm between rows. During the first month, you still have to weed between the plants, and then the beans will cover the entire bed with their leaves, and it is unlikely that anything will be able to grow in this shade. When the season comes to an end, the bean leaves will go into the compost, and the site should be walked with a hoe to remove the most tenacious weeds.

As you can see, the methods are very different in nature. You can choose any of them, depending on whether you are in a hurry to plant something on your site or are ready to wait for time and the sun to do their job. In any case, if you take up this business and bring it to the end, you can then enjoy the delights of working on your site, free from weeds.

In order to grow a garden of fruit trees on your site, you must not only decide on the place and plants, but also take into account the basic nuances, such as planting patterns, hole sizes, planting and caring for seedlings, which will be discussed in this article.

Garden layout

When a place was chosen for planting seedlings, it is important to decide on a scheme for planting them. It is recommended to plant trees according to four schemes, which have their own peculiarities in the arrangement of plants, make it possible to simplify the process of caring for seedlings and get a bountiful harvest.

The most common planting pattern is quadratic: it allows you to create comfortable conditions for garden care. According to this scheme, trees are planted in even rows. The distance between trees depends on their type and variety.

Important! It is also necessary to take into account the landing pattern in order to rationally use the space, therefore it is better to arrange the trees in a square plot according to a quadratic pattern.

If were chosen dwarf varieties, optimal distance between rows will be 4 m, between trees should be left 2.5 m. Classic species that were grafted on a wild rootstock should be planted at a distance of at least 3.5 m from each other, between rows - 5 m. Tall and vigorous species should be at a distance of 4 m, between rows 6 m is kept.

The quadratic planting pattern is suitable for trees that are not demanding on lighting, normally tolerate partial shade created by adjacent rows. Usually apple trees of different varieties are planted this way, some varieties of pears.

Chess

The chess scheme is very similar to the quadratic one, only in each square between four trees one more tree is planted. The scheme is denser, therefore it is suitable for planting medium-sized plants with a small crown. If the garden is located on a slope, then the chess scheme will be the best option planting trees to reduce soil erosion by precipitation.
The staggered planting method allows trees to receive maximum amount light, therefore suitable for light-loving plants- plums, apricots, peaches, as well as for apple and pear trees. The distance between the trees should be 4 m, between the rows it is better to leave 5 m.

Planting trees in a triangular pattern is characterized by a denser arrangement of plants with a large crown. According to the triangular scheme, all trees will be evenly standing, which will allow planting 15% more plants than according to the quadratic scheme.

To find out the optimal distance between plants, you must be guided by the rule of doubling the indicator of the maximum width of the crown of an adult tree. For example, if the crown width is 4 m, then there should be a distance of at least 8 m between plants on all sides.
Thanks to the triangular planting pattern, plants can receive the maximum amount of light. Cherry, apple, pear, plum, apricot, peach are suitable for planting with this scheme.

horizontal layout

The horizontal planting pattern is used in the case of trees located on a hilly area. Plants in this case are planted along horizontal lines, which makes it possible to reduce soil erosion processes and successfully grow seedlings on uneven areas. For fruit plantings, an elevated area is chosen, preferably in the south of the site. Plant fruit trees in such a way that maximum height trunks was directed to the north.
Thanks to this arrangement, the plants are provided with the most large quantity Sveta. The distance between them in this case should be at least 3 meters, between rows - at least 5. Any fruit trees are suitable for planting in a horizontal way.

garden planting

When the planting scheme has been determined, it is necessary to proceed with the selection and purchase of seedlings, which will then take root on the site.

Choice of fruit crops

In order for plants to bear fruit well, you need to be able to choose them correctly. Therefore, pay attention to the recommended growing region, soil and other conditions. Exist special varieties, which were bred for each region: they easily tolerate frosty winters, different types soils are less sensitive to adverse weather conditions. Consider the basic recommendations for planting trees that feel normal in mid-latitudes.

most popular fruit plant in the middle latitudes is the apple tree. This culture is photophilous, so it is better to plant it in a well-lit area. An apple tree can grow on gray forest, soddy-podzolic soils, chernozems, which are distinguished by a light mechanical composition with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. The tree does not tolerate excess moisture, so plant it on small hills, in areas with deep groundwater - at least 1.5 m deep.

Did you know? Apple orchards in the world cover 5 million hectares, and every third fruit tree in the world is an apple tree.

A pear is recommended to be planted on the south side of the site, since territories with harsh winters often cause trees to die. The site must be selected well protected from the wind, which is especially important in winter. Pear grows well on moist soils, groundwater should be no closer than 1 m to the soil surface. The ideal soil for pear is loamy, sandy loam or slightly podzolic.
Cherry prefers warmer regions with more sunlight and warmth. The seedling is not recommended to be planted in the lowlands, as the cherry has poor winter hardiness and often freezes. The territory must be chosen well-ventilated - in this way many tree diseases can be avoided. As for the soil, the cherry prefers fertile soils with a light mechanical composition, characterized by high air permeability. Cherries are planted on light and medium loams, which allows you to get the maximum yield.

Plum also prefers well-lit areas, so it is necessary to plant seedlings on the south side of the site, on a wet clay soil with a thick fertile layer and a neutral reaction. Plum also grows normally in northern regions, but subject to the basic recommendations for planting and caring for the plant. Apricots grow well in mid-latitudes and subtropics in the most illuminated areas with plenty of sunlight and heat. Apricot trees need to be well protected from northerly winds: they can be placed on slopes and in places that are inaccessible to cold air.
The tree is best planted in light, well-drained soils. Peaches are planted in southern regions with a lot of heat and sunlight, because they are unstable to severe frosts damaging fruit buds. Peaches grow well on light loams with high air permeability and drainage, a prerequisite is high-quality wind protection.

How to choose and buy seedlings

It is important not only to choose the right place for planting seedlings, but also to planting material, in order to ensure a good survival of the tree and obtain stable high yields further.

Important! It is preferable to buy seedlings in nurseries, avoiding markets and other dubious places.

First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the age of the tree: it is optimal to acquire planting material of two years of age, older trees have a low survival rate. Look closely at root system seedlings - it must be healthy, contain, in addition to skeletal, numerous growing roots. Do not buy trees that have knots, thickenings, growths, nodules, nodules or other dubious formations on the roots.
The minimum number of skeletal roots for a two-year-old seedling is 3, it is preferable to choose seedlings that contain more than 3. Do not buy trees that have gross mechanical damage to the roots created during the process of improper digging. The height of a two-year-old seedling must be at least 1.5 meters, healthy trees contains three lateral branches, which are evenly distributed along the trunk. The bark should be smooth, not have any scratches, cracks.

Did you know? There is an interesting method for determining the duration of storage of an excavated tree: it is necessary to pinch a tree branch between a large and index finger, and if the seedling is fresh, then a slight coolness will come from the tree, and if the seedling is dry–you will feel warm.

Planting hole preparation

Depending on the type of fruit tree landing pit getting ready different size and different shapes, but for almost all trees, round pits with sheer walls are best suited, which can ensure the normal development of the root system. The size of a hole dug in cultivated soil with a deep fertile layer should be about 70 cm in diameter and 70 cm deep.

If a tree is planted in a territory being developed for the first time, the size of the pit will increase three times, since it will need to be filled with a sufficient amount of nutrient mixture, which in the future will serve as a reservoir necessary for normal development young seedling substances. Heavy clay and sandy soils involve digging a hole 1 m in diameter and 1 m deep. Experienced gardeners it is advised to dig wider and shallower holes in clayey dense soil so that water does not stagnate in their lower layers - this will have a detrimental effect on the roots of plants.
If planting will be done in the spring, then holes must be dug in autumn period previous year if the landing will be made in the fall, then the hole is dug in May-June. This is necessary so that the fertilizers that were applied to the soil are well mixed and ripened, that is, they form the necessary microbiological environment.

Tree planting rules

Depending on the type of fruit tree, there are rules for the size of the pit, planting time and other nuances that need to be considered:

1. apple trees they are often planted in the spring, if the seedling is not older than 2 years, so that over the summer the tree takes root, grows and survives wintering normally. Spring planting should take place in early May - late April, when the ground has already thawed and warmed up a little. If the seedling will be planted in the spring, then the pit can be prepared a week before planting. The size of the pit will depend on the soil: if it is quite fertile, then 60 cm in depth and diameter will be enough; if the soil is poor, then the depth should be at least 70 cm, and the diameter should be 80 cm. Seedlings of 3-4 years of age can be planted in autumn , since the already strong tree is not afraid of winter frosts. Planting is best done in early October, so that the roots have time to strengthen before winter. In autumn, it is recommended to plant young trees in the southern regions with fertile soil. A hole is dug the same size as in the case of planting in the spring, but it is prepared a month before planting.
   
2. pear can be planted both in spring and autumn. Spring planting (at the end of April) excludes the possibility of death of the tree from frost. It is better to prepare the pit in advance, in the fall of the previous year. During this time, the soil will shrink, and after planting the seedling, the root neck will not deepen much, which guarantees the normal survival of the plant. The hole should be about a meter wide and about 50 cm deep. If the soil is poor, then the hole is dug deeper and filled with several buckets of fertile soil. As in the case of an apple tree, a pear is planted in the southern regions in autumn, which allows the seedling to take root normally. In addition, a pear that was planted in the fall and survived the winter will be stronger and more resistant to future frosts. dig a hole better in spring, the size of the pit in depth is 50 cm, the diameter is 1 m, and planting is carried out in early October.
   
3. Apricot in the spring it is recommended to plant before the buds awaken on the seedling - in mid-April. The pit is prepared in autumn, its minimum size– 70 cm deep and 70 cm in diameter. The preparation of the pit for the autumn landing should be carried out in a month, or even two. A width of 1 m is required, and a depth of 80 cm. The optimal time for landing is the beginning of October.
   
4. Cherry often planted in spring (end of April), especially in the middle lane and northern regions, since over the summer the seedling grows, becomes stronger and normally tolerates wintering. The hole must be dug in advance better in autumn, its depth should be at least 50 cm, diameter - 80 cm. In autumn, planting cherries is practiced only in the southern regions, sometimes in middle lane. Optimal time for planting - the end of September, so that before the first frost hits, the tree gets stronger. The pit is prepared in the spring, the size is the same as in the case of landing in the spring.
   
5. Peach is a heat-loving plant, therefore, even in the southern regions, planting is carried out in the spring (end of April). The pit is prepared in advance, best of all in the fall, the size of the pit should be at least 70 cm deep and 1 m in diameter.
   
6. prefers spring planting in the middle lane and in the northern regions, in the southern regions, planting seedlings is most often practiced in the autumn. In spring, plums are planted at the end of April in a prepared hole. It is better to prepare the pit in the fall, add organic fertilizers to it, which, over a sufficiently long period of time, will overheat and create ideal conditions for a young seedling. The pit should be at least 60 cm deep and 70 cm wide, or more. In autumn, at the beginning of October, the plum is planted in a hole that was dug in the spring and fertilized with organic matter, the size of the hole is 60x70 cm.
   

Did you know?Unlike other fruit trees, plums cannot be found in nature in the wild. Plum was obtained by crossing blackthorn and cherry plum more than 2 thousand years ago.

How to care for newly planted trees

When the seedlings are planted in the soil, at first, special attention should be paid to regular watering. The frequency of watering depends on weather conditions and regularity of precipitation. The minimum amount of water to be poured under one tree is 20 liters at a time. You need to water 1 time in 2-4 weeks. It is recommended to check the soil for moisture with a stick: if the surface of the soil is 20 cm dry, it's time to water the seedling.

The place around the seedling should be mulched - this is necessary in order to create favorable environment for the root system, retain moisture in summer period, slow down the growth of weed vegetation. Mulch is poured in a fairly thick layer (15 cm) at a distance of 1-2 meters from the trunk - use sawdust, straw. The near-stem circle is regularly loosened and rid of weeds. It is especially important to loosen the soil after watering, when it is compacted from the water. Loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 5 cm, so as not to damage the young roots.
Necessarily young tree for the winter should be insulated so that it normally endures frosts. Warming the trunk will also help protect the bark from rodent raids, which gnaw it in winter, which leads to the death of the seedling. The procedure is carried out in early November, tying the lower part of the trunk spruce branches not less than 70 cm in height. Whitewashing of trees is carried out 2 times a year - in autumn and spring. Autumn whitewashing is done on a sunny, not rainy day at the end of September, and spring whitewashing should be carried out during a period of slight frosts, when the first insects have not yet appeared.