Making a milling table with your own hands. Do-it-yourself milling table: step-by-step instructions Do-it-yourself milling table for a manual milling cutter drawings

A milling machine is purchased for a variety of carpentry work. But, sometimes the scope of its application increases significantly, and there is a need for reconstruction of the workplace. Milling table for manual router by hand is a great opportunity save cash and create a quality work surface for yourself. Carpentry work is now in great demand, and in Everyday life this tool is quite useful. And more comfortable working conditions will make it simply indispensable.

Milling table

An experienced carpenter can assemble a simple do-it-yourself milling table even without drawings, prepared dimensions and diagrams. There are many videos on the Internet on this topic and step-by-step explanations of the essence of the work. If for the first time you decide to try yourself in this area, then do not despair, if you wish, you can make a table for a manual router in just one day. In addition, you will be completely confident in the strength of your product, and you will also be able to choose the ideal dimensions that are needed specifically for your room. But, before making a circular milling table, you should understand what it is.

Milling table drawing

A home-made milling table can not be distinguished from a store version if it is made in compliance with the basic rules and requirements. Milling machines move on the surface of the material being processed, thereby leveling it. If a this species to make processing stationary, then the master will go to work much less time and effort.

A do-it-yourself table for a router occupies a certain space in the room. Therefore, before mounting, decide which table you want to see:

aggregate;
removable;
stationary.

Aggregate Portable Stationary

Remember that most of the work can only be done in a stationary mode. Also, consider how often you will use the machine, because a portable model is quite suitable for rare use, and a stationary model for daily use. workplace.

What parts does a milling table consist of?

A homemade milling table can be made alone without resorting to outside help. To do this, it is necessary to make all the main parts of the structure for subsequent assembly. Without one of the parts, the milling table can become almost useless, as it will not perform its main duties. The do-it-yourself milling cutter consists of the following parts:

countertops;
beds;
bottom stop;
clamping combs;
mounting plate.

The worktop for a hand router should be thick, durable and even. Perfect for this kitchen countertops, or, if not available, plain plywood. It is only worth remembering that a universal milling table requires a thickness of at least 16 mm, so the plywood sheets should be glued together with wood glue. Additional funds You can give the smoothness of the surface, for more convenient work. In the center you need to make a hole to install the router.

The drawings of the milling table cannot do without a bed. It is responsible for the stability of the structure, absorbing all vibrations emanating from the tool. To do this, you can use old bedside tables, tables, but on condition that they are very durable. Some focus on metal models, which is quite practical.

Milling table from an old nightstand

The bottom stop fixed on a table-top, is responsible for the correct supply of material. It can be made fixed, for permanent materials, or sliding, if the master will work with elements of different sizes. This is a very important element in the work, since the quality of the cutter will depend on the evenness of all sides.

Clamping combs on the table for circulars and routers are almost mandatory. They perfectly fix the material not only from the sides, but also from above. This comb can be installed at any height using fasteners. Its dimensions are set based on the personal wishes of the master and what he will face in his work.

Experts advise immediately installing sliding combs and stops, then the functionality of the working machine will increase significantly.

Assembly rules

Assembling the milling table with your own hands should take place in stages. First you need to decide on the countertop and make a hole in it for the tool. Next, material feed control systems are attached.

In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine the places of their attachment to the smallest detail, since the quality of further work depends on this.

The milling machine itself must be firmly fixed under the tabletop. It should not dangle or hang, any movement can lead to injury during operation or damage to equipment. It is better to fix it with self-tapping screws, for your own peace of mind.

The main thing in this way of working is to make the most convenient workplace for the master. And in this regard, the master himself works with all sizes, knowing what he actually wants to get as a result.

Electronics at work

Making a circular and milling table with your own hands is quite simple, but do not forget that this tool works from electric current. Since the start and stop buttons will be in an inconvenient place for the master, you need to take care of their use. You can make an exit and install the start and stop buttons of the mechanism in a convenient place, but this requires knowledge in electronics.

There is an alternative option that is less safe for the router and circular saw. The start button is clamped, and it is in a constantly on state, stopping only with a cable when disconnected from the mains.

A new milling table made by oneself must fully comply with the floor covering of the workplace. If the floors are uneven, legs with a movable mechanism should be made, otherwise the structure will quickly become unusable. In order for the service life of the table for the router to significantly exceed all expectations, its surface is coated with varnish or other woodworking liquid. This not only increases the service life, but also additionally holds the elements together.

1 2 3

Protect yourself from damage that may occur during operation. Install a protective glass on the longitudinal stop, which will be a barrier to flying chips, sawdust and other elements.

When making a router table at home, with your own hands, remember that working with it is quite dangerous and better take care of your safety.

The workshop of any person contains all the tools necessary for him. But at the same time, an urgent need for arranging the workplace may be necessary, and store prices may not suit you. And in general, not all people have the opportunity to visit stores with such goods.

Milling table drawing

The milling table has drawings and diagrams, so making it yourself will not be difficult. Moreover, you yourself will know which model you need, what sizes will be convenient for you. The purchase option may not always be a way out. Do not be afraid and waste time, even a beginner will figure out how to make a table.

2. Glue the right leg With to support B (Fig. 1) and secure with additional screws. Set the assembly aside. Saw out the tsargi I. Then make cutouts for the tsarg in the middle support. How to carefully make such cutouts is described in "".

3. Using the middle support cutouts AT, mark the width of the upper dividing shelf F (photo A). File the shelf to the final width. Then determine the width of the bottom shelf G and cut it off (photo B).

FOR A PRECISE FIT, MARK ONE PARTS WITH OTHERS

Lay the bottom shelf G on the middle support B, making sure the edges are even. Using the cutout as a template, mark the width of the shelf.

Align one edge of the top shelf F with the notch and mark its width by marking the opposite notch.

4. Glue the top shelf F to the middle support AT, aligning its underside with the top edges of the cutouts (photo C). Once the glue is dry, glue the bottom shelf in place. G.

Saw out two spacers 108 mm long from the scraps and, using them to align the bottom shelf, glue it to the middle support B.

The combination drill allows countersinking mounting and pilot holes in one operation without changing the tool.

5. After drilling the mounting and pilot holes, glue the left leg D to the assembled node B/F/G and secure with screws (a photoD).

Brief advice! Using glue and screws, you can fasten several parts of the base at once. Screws speed up assembly because you don't have to wait for the glue to dry completely before attaching the next piece. Cut out the back wall J and, having tried it on the opening, make sure that the upper edge is flush with the cutout of the middle support AT. Glue the back wall in place and secure with clamps.

6. Glue the sides in place I fixing them with clamps (photo E). Then fix the last support with glue and screws. AT. When the glue is dry, mark the exact length of the top bar H (photoF) and glue the part in place (Fig. 1).

Glue the sides I into the cutouts flush with the top shelf F. Then glue the left support B in place, securing it with additional screws.

To make the sides I parallel to each other along the entire length, mark the exact length of the upper bar H by attaching it to the left side of the base.

7. Take the right leg support again V/S and attach to the assembled left side of the base B/D/F-J using glue and screws (Fig. 1). Then glue to the left and right supports AT slats E fixing them with clamps. Using a sanding pad, make a rounding with a radius of 3 mm on the upper outer edge of the left plank.

Milling table drawings

Measuring and marking out project details with a tape measure and ruler can be difficult to achieve accuracy, especially if the actual plywood thickness differs from the nominal. Instead, for accuracy, it is better to use the parts themselves or scraps of material for dimensional customization machine tools. To make precise cutouts for drawer side I in the middle support B, follow this method.

To adjust the width of the notch, make a cut in the plywood trim, lifting the disk so that a small burr remains on the edge.

When setting the depth of cut, measure the distance from the stop to outside saw blade teeth.

Attach to the head of the cross (corner) stop wooden lining and cut the cutout into the part in several passes. The longitudinal stop serves as a limiter for the last pass.

Cover the lid

1. Take the lid cut earlier BUT and mark its center by connecting opposite corners with straight lines. Using a hole saw, make a 38 mm hole in the center of the cover (a photoG).

Clamp cover A to the workbench, placing a board to prevent chips. Drill a hole for the cutter in the center of the cover.

Place the plastic footplate on top of cover A and center it so that the controls of the power tool are accessible from the front.

2. Remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router you are about to install on the table and, using it as a template, mark the centers of the mounting holes on the cover (photo H). Drill holes and countersink them.

3. Cut out the planks of the lid To. Mark the centers of the three holes on one of the slats (Fig. 2). Drill holes with a diameter of 6mm (photo I). Glue the strips to the lid BUT and secure with clamps.

Secure both K planks to the workbench by stacking them with a plank underneath to avoid chipping.

Drill a 5mm diameter hole through the pivot hole. Then make a hole with a diameter of 6 mm on the right. The depth of the holes must correspond to the length of the fastener.

4. Put the lid on A/K on the base and align the axial hole in the middle of the end of the plank E, focusing on the middle layer of plywood veneer. Then through the holes in the top bar To drill a 5 mm hole for the axle screw and a 6 mm hole for the right locking screw (Fig. 1, photoJ). Add washers and screw a capercaillie screw 6×35 mm into the axial hole. Lift the lid and through the left locking hole, drill a hole with a diameter of 6 mm for the locking screw that fixes the lid in the raised position.

Add a longitudinal stop

1. Cut out the front wall and the base of the stop L. Mark the same semicircular cutouts (Fig. 3). Then, as described in the "Advice of the Master", carefully cut them out with a jigsaw. Glue the front wall to the base and secure with clamps.

2. Cut out spacers M and clamps N. Glue the spacers to the clamps. When the glue dries, set the stop L/L on assembled clamps M/N, align the parts and drill through holes with a diameter of 6 mm (Fig. 3, photoL).

With a board under to prevent chipping, align the L/L stop over the assembled M/N clamps. After fixing all the parts with clamps, drill a through hole, then do the same on the other side.

Adjust the crosscut to a 45° angle and saw off two gussets from both ends of the strip. Set the 90° angle again to saw off two more gussets.

3. From a plywood strip measuring 19x76x305 mm, cut out triangular scarves Oh (photo M). Glue them to the assembled stop (Fig. 3).

Craft Strong Crates

1. From 19 mm plywood, cut out two blanks measuring 100 × 254 mm for the front and back walls R. From one blank, cut out two back walls and set them aside. On the second workpiece, mark the cutouts of the front walls (Fig. 4) and carefully cut them out (see "Craftsman's Tip" below) before splitting the workpiece into two front walls.

Brief advice! It is more convenient to make cutouts before you start cutting out the front walls so that the sole of the jigsaw does not rest against the clamps pressing the workpiece.

Cutting sharp curves with a jigsaw

Even having installed a file with the smallest teeth in the electric jigsaw, it is not easy to make neat cuts with a small radius, since the file gets stuck in the cut, heats up and burns are formed.

Try it this way: before cutting out the contour cut, make frequent straight cuts from the edge of the part, as shown in the photo on the right. Then cut out the cutout, leading the file with a slight indent from contour line. As the saw blade moves forward, the small pieces formed by the straight cuts will fall out one after the other without interfering with the movement of the file and giving room to maneuver if a slight change in path is required. Sand the edges of the cutout to the contour line using a piece of plastic pipe wrapped sandpaper.

2. From 12 mm plywood, cut out side walls Q and bottoms R. Set those details aside.

3. Attach the router to the underside of the cover BUT. If the original soleplate mounting screws are too short, replace them with longer ones with the same thread.

4. Insert a 12 mm rebate cutter into the collet. Install the stop as shown in rice. 3. Cut 12x12mm seams along three sides of the front and back walls R. Replace the cutter and make 3 mm radius fillets on the edges of the semi-circular front wall cutouts.

5. Assemble the boxes by gluing the parts and fixing them with clamps (Fig. 5). From trimming 6 mm plywood, make rotary constipation S and sand at the corners with a radius of 6 mm. Drill mounting holes with counterbores and attach braces to front edge of middle post B (Fig. 1). Now insert the boxes, fill them with boxes with cutters and you can start milling.

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Joiners treat their milling tables with respect. And there is a good reason for this. Often, milling tables allow you to achieve results that were previously only available to professional furniture workshops with milling machines. Edge profiling and joining are easy, clean and safe. Therefore, it is not surprising that many companies rushed to satisfy the indomitable appetite of carpenters, producing a wide range of milling tables and accessories for them. However, home-made milling tables are sometimes not inferior to branded ones, and any amateur can make a simple milling table with their own hands.

Regardless of whether you want to make your own router table or buy a branded one, you need to navigate their designs in order to end up with a table that is most suitable for the size of the workshop, the features of the work and the budget. Making a milling table with your own hands gives unique opportunity get what you want. You choose the options you would like to have, including table size and base design.

Milling table type. First of all, you should have a clear idea of what type of router table you need: stand-alone (stationary), desktop (portable) or a side extension of the saw table (aggregate). If you have to work outside the workshop or use the router table only occasionally, consider a portable option. To save space, it can be removed or hung on the wall. If there is enough space, a free-standing router table will provide maximum convenience. Put it on wheels and place it where it is more convenient. A freestanding (or portable) milling table can be set up to perform the operation and left for a while, while it will not interfere with other devices, machines and tools.

Table cover material. Manufacturers offer milling tables with covers made of various materials. Most make covers from MDF boards, pasted over with plastic or melamine coated. They are flat, inexpensive and durable. In addition, they are easy to cut and process if you need to improve the router table. Since the grooves in the MDF board wear out rather quickly, manufacturers equip such covers with aluminum profiles for longitudinal and movable stops. Remember also that MDF absorbs moisture and can swell when high humidity. To reduce moisture absorption, seal all exposed edges of the MDF board.

Some manufacturers make router table tops out of phenolic plastic, which is very strong, hard and durable. Such tables have perfectly even and flat covers, completely immune to moisture. Phenolic plastics are well machined, making it possible to make grooves for a sliding stop and aluminum profiles with a T-slot or slotted holes for attaching a longitudinal stop. The disadvantage of such covers is more high price- 10-20% more expensive than MDF.

If you prefer the reliability of metal, you can choose from aluminium, sheet steel and cast iron. They are smoothly ground, have even planes and are very durable. In most cases, they have a groove for a movable stop-carriage. Keep in mind that you will have to protect steel and cast iron covers from rust. Aluminum covers do not rust, but are also susceptible to corrosion. Aluminum without a special coating (plating) can leave dirty marks on the workpieces.

Groove for movable stop. Milling tables are designed primarily for processing the longitudinal edges of workpieces. If you want to cut a groove across the board, then most router tables have a built-in profile with a groove for a standard movable stop-carriage, purchased separately. This groove also serves as a convenient place to install additional devices, such as clamping combs. Some craftsmen, instead of a movable stop sliding in the groove of the cover, use a homemade sled that moves along the longitudinal (parallel) stop. With such a slide, the part is perpendicular to the longitudinal stop, regardless of whether it is parallel to the groove in the cover or not.

Router mount. Most router tables have a router mounting plate that fits into the opening of the rebate cover. The router is screwed through holes in the base to a plate, which is usually made of phenolic plastic, aluminum or polycarbonate. Inserts can be purchased separately and fitted to the router table.

Attaching the router to the insert plate has two advantages over attaching it directly to the underside of the table top. Firstly, the insert saves 6 to 10 mm of cutting depth, as opposed to the option of mounting the router to a cover with a thickness of 25 mm or more. Secondly, the plate makes it easy to remove the router. You will feel this benefit when you need to change the cutter.

The insert should be flush with the surface of the router table top. If this is not the case, the workpieces will cling to the raised edges. Make sure the table top or plate has adjusting screws or other leveling device to set the plate flush with the surface of the cover.

Some manufacturers make the plates slightly convex. Sagging under the weight of a heavy router, such plates become flat, not concave.

Cutters can be smaller than 3mm and larger than 76mm, so choose an insert with changeable rings to change the opening diameter as shown in the photo.

If you want to have a more advanced device, purchase a plate equipped with an elevator (see "Milling elevators").

Longitudinal stop. If you do not use milling cutters with bearings, then most milling operations require a longitudinal (parallel) stop to guide the workpiece. For correct operation it should be at least even along its entire length, perpendicular to the table surface and easily adjusted. Its movable faceplates, which slide in and out to adjust gaps around the cutter, provide a significant performance advantage. The ability to move one of the overlays on some models allows you to joint the edges of the workpieces (photo on the right). This option will be required if there is no planer.

It is also worth choosing a longitudinal stop with a T-slot or other fastening system for clamping combs, side stops and special devices. If the stop is not equipped with a vacuum cleaner nozzle, purchase one separately. By connecting the hose of a vacuum cleaner or cyclone, you can catch most of the dust and chips generated during the operation of the router. Most commercial rip fences are equipped with these fittings, as is the homemade rip fence described in the Router Table Rip fence article.

Homemade milling table

The simplest version of a homemade milling table is a sheet, such as a chipboard with a hole for the cutter, and a board that acts as a guide, fixed with clamps. The photo below is not the most rational example: the board can be much thinner and narrower, but big square sheet is not used.

Whether to make legs to put this structure on a table, or to mount it between two tables, or between two stools, or something else - it's more convenient for someone. Such a device is enough if you want to try out your router as milling machine.

The next option is not much more difficult, but much more thorough.

You can also make a more complex milling table with your own hands.

The following is a detailed description of the manufacture of this homemade milling table, so if you are satisfied with simple options, you can not read further and start making a simple milling table.

Making a table for a manual router

Milling table cover. Saw a piece of birch plywood for the panel (A) and a piece of laminate for the cover (B) to the dimensions shown in the Materials and Parts List, remembering to add a 25 mm allowance to the length and width.

Using the instructions on the can, apply contact adhesive to the back of the plastic and the top of the plywood. Glue the plastic to the plywood, stepping back from its corner about 3 mm. Roll the plastic firmly with a rubber roller.

Pressing the plastic-free edges of the plywood against the parallel (longitudinal) stop of the saw, saw off about 6 mm of material from opposite edges, sawing through the plywood and plastic at the same time. Now, pressing the already clean edges against the stop, cut the opposite sides of the part (A / B) to the final size.

Saw long (C) and short (D) edge strips with an allowance of about 25 mm. Make bevels at their ends to close the edges of the lid. Glue them to the edges of the lid and fix with clamps, aligning the top sides with the plastic surface. To do this, make leveling blocks by making 50x50mm cutouts in four pieces of 19x100x100mm plywood (the cutouts allow you to see the corner joints). Fix them with clamps on the lid, as shown in the photo below. To prevent the clamps from interfering with work, place trimming boards under their lower jaws. Now glue the edge strips to the lid, pressing them against the alignment blocks.

Install a 19 mm thick slotted disc in the saw and attach a wooden pad about 250 mm high to the parallel (longitudinal) stop. Adjust the position of the disk and the stop for the recess in the edge plates (D) of the tongues to install the aluminum profile. Check the settings you have made on the trims and, if necessary, change them. Pressing the plastic-coated side of the cover against the stop, saw out the tongues in the edge trims (D). Use a retaining block to prevent chipping at the exit of the saw blade.

Using the same slotted disc, saw out the tongue in the trial cutting of the board and check how the corner stop slider enters it. It should move freely along the sheet pile with minimal play. Adjust settings if required. Lay the lid plastic side down and cut a groove in it for the corner stop. To avoid chipping at the exit of the saw blade, use a retaining block.

Mounting plate hole. To make a cutout in the cover for the router's mounting plate, follow the steps shown below.

Step 1: Cut the mounting plate to size and place it exactly in the middle of the cover, 125mm from the front edge.

Step 2. Outline the plate on the lid.

Step 3. Mark and draw the cutout lines inside the stroked outline.

Step 4. Drill an inlet for a jigsaw file and cut a cutout according to the marking.

Step 5 Glue the Mounting Plate Inside the Outline double sided tape.

Step 6. Clamp the guide rails around the plate, inserting spacers from thin cardboard.

Step 7. Remove the plate and spacers. Install a copy cutter with an upper bearing in the router collet. With the router foot resting on the guide rails, set the routing depth to 3 mm in the table top.

Step 8. Start cutting the rebate by driving the cutter bearing along the edges of the guide rails. Make a few shallow cuts, increasing the overhang of the cutter to a depth of 0.5 mm more than the thickness of the mounting plate.

Aligning the router mounting plate flush with the tabletop is easy by installing self-locking nuts at the corners of the recess. After making a recess, drill a hole in each corner with a diameter of 11 and a depth of 6 mm for a self-locking nut. Make sure that the nuts in the holes do not protrude. Drill through holes for screws in the center of the nut holes, and then follow the four simple operations shown in the photo below to mount the adjustment system.

When the adhesive hardens, replace the 50mm screw with a 13mm screw. To make adjustments without using a tool, use an oversized adjusting screw.

Smoothly sand the edge trims (C), (D) with 220 grit sandpaper. The sharp edges of the plastic around the recess for the mounting plate and along the slot for the miter gauge slightly blunt the scraper.

Milling table base. Cut the legs (E) and ties (F) to the specified length, leaving an allowance of about 25 mm in width. Tilt the saw blade 12° and file the bevels at the edges of the tie rods and the edges of the legs. Cut the power cord bar to the measurements shown (G).

Glue zip ties (F) to legs (E) and secure with clamps. Drill and countersink pilot holes through the ties. Screw in the screws and remove the clamps. Glue the bar for the power cord to the screed, fixing it with clamps. Smoothly sand the assembled legs with 220 grit sandpaper.

Place the upside-down cover on the workbench and glue the assembled legs to it, pressing them with clamps. Drill and countersink pilot holes through the zip ties into the cover. Screw 4.5x32mm countersunk head screws into them.

Longitudinal stop. To make the emphasis even, it is necessary to carefully plan off the edges perpendicular to the layers. First, cut out the stop itself (H) and its base (I) according to the indicated dimensions (see the figure below), adding allowances of about 12 mm in width and 25 mm in length. Plane one edge of each board. Install the saw blade, adding 0.8-1.0 mm to the final width of the parts, and file the rough edges. Set the planer to the appropriate planing depth and planer the freshly sawn edges. Measure the exact length of the finished router table cover and add 1 mm to this measurement. File the fence and its base along the length in accordance with the size obtained (an extra millimeter allows the fence to move more easily). Using a bandsaw or jigsaw, make 38x38mm cutouts for the cutter in the middle of both pieces. Glue the stop to the base and fix the gluing with clamps.

Saw out two 19x120x190mm blanks for the end plates (K). Connect both blanks into a block using double-sided tape. Mark the diagonal cut line and the center of the 6 mm hole on the top workpiece according to the figure below. Make a cut, sand the edges to the marking line and drill a hole. Separate the end plates.

Glue the end plates (K) to the stop (H/I), aligning their edges with the front side of the stop, and fix the glue with clamps. Drill pilot holes through the end plates in the places indicated in the figure, countersink them and screw in the screws. Using a slotted disk adjusted to the width of the aluminum profile with a T-slot, cut a groove in the front of the assembled stop (K/H/K). Finish the finished stop with 220 grit.

Saw out the gussets (J) for mounting the dust extraction pipe according to the dimensions shown in the figure below. Temporarily setting the gussets on the stop, determine and mark their exact position. Then glue them to the stop, fixing them with clamps. When the glue dries, attach a flanged pipe to the gussets and mark the centers of the mounting holes for the screws.

Shield. Saw to the indicated dimensions (see figure below) the shield holder (L). Make roundings with a radius of 12 mm on its upper corners. To make slotted holes, drill holes with a diameter of 7 mm in the indicated places, draw tangent lines from one hole to another and make cuts along these lines using a jigsaw or electric jigsaw. Finish sanding the holder with 220 grit sandpaper.

Saw the shield (M) out of 6mm clear acrylic plexiglass to the measurements indicated. Using a grinder, make on it outside corners rounding with a radius of 12 mm. Use double-sided tape to stick the shield to the holder, aligning the back sides. Drill and countersink mounting holes through shield (M) into holder (L). Remove the shield and set it aside.

Pressure comb. From a 19mm straight layer maple board, cut a 51x457mm blank for the pressure combs. Using the miter fence on the saw, make 30° bevels at both ends of the workpiece (see illustration below). Draw oblique lines across the workpiece, stepping back from the ends of 67 mm, and then mark the radii of the upper ends of both clamps.

Install a regular 3 mm blade in the saw and raise it to a height of 50 mm above the saw table. Move the longitudinal stop 2 mm away from the disc. Press the long edge of the workpiece against the stop and make a cut to the marking line, then carefully pull the board back. A good help for this operation will be a pusher with a rubber pad, used with a planer. Turn the workpiece 180° and repeat the operation on the other end. Move the rip fence back 5mm and make new cuts at both ends. Repeat operations, making cuts at regular intervals up to the 45 mm mark. When the rip fence is at this mark, lower the saw blade to a height of 25 mm and file the edge of the workpiece to the final width.

Drill 7 mm diameter holes in the clamps (N) for suspension and slot holes. Mark the edges of the slotted holes with parallel lines and cut them out with a jigsaw or jigsaw machine, then use a band saw to cut out the rounds at the top ends of the clamps. Sand the pressure combs with 220 grit sandpaper.

Cut the stop blocks (O) to the specified dimensions and drill a 7 mm hole in the center. Sand the stop blocks with 220 grit sandpaper. Stop blocks are mounted close to the long edges of the clamping dies to prevent them from turning when the workpiece is fed.

There are simple and fast way adjusting the pressure of the clamping comb on the workpiece being processed. Make the first pressure plate 3 mm shorter than the others. When setting up the comb, press this first shortened blade against the workpiece. Now align the bottom ends of the remaining blades parallel to the router table surface and secure the comb by tightening the screw.

Mounting plate. Working with the router table will become more comfortable and safe if the diameter of the hole in the mounting plate is only slightly larger than the diameter of the cutter. It is possible to purchase a ready-made plate with interchangeable rings suitable for different diameters cutters and suitable for most cases. And you can make a plate that exactly matches the diameter of the cutter. A birch plywood plate is inexpensive, but for a more solid option, we recommend choosing cast polycarbonate. Lay the plate face up on a flat surface. Remove the plastic sole from the router and stick it with double-sided tape to the plate also with the right side up. Make sure the soleplate is exactly centered on the plate and oriented so that it is comfortable to work with the router in the table. Install in drilling machine a drill of the same diameter as the mounting holes in the sole. Using them as guides, drill appropriate holes through them into the plate. Remove the soleplate and countersink the drilled mounting holes. Now attach the plate with screws to the turned off router and place it on the workbench. Clamp a short 8 mm drill in the router collet and lower the motor until the tip of the drill touches the plate. Rotate the collet by hand a few times to mark the center. Remove the mounting plate from the router. Install in the drill chuck hole saw or an annular cutter and, according to the finished mark, make a central hole of the required diameter in the plate.

Finishing and adding accessories. Additional sanding of places that need it. Following the instructions on the can, apply two coats of Penetrating Oil Coat to all wooden details, including recess for router mounting plate and slot for miter gauge. Compared to varnish or paint, oil coatings are easier to refresh by reapplying them. They also reliably impregnate grooves, holes and recesses without reducing their size.

Using a hacksaw, cut pieces of the aluminum profile with a T-slot according to the length of the table and the rip fence. At sawn ends, you will have to drill and countersink new mounting holes. Through them in the profile, drill pilot holes in the table top and stop; fasten both sections of the profile with screws.

Install an additional pushbutton.

Attach the guard (M) to the holder (L) with 4.5x25mm brass countersunk screws. Install the assembled shield, clamping combs with locking blocks on the parallel stop, and this in turn on the milling table, using hex bolts, washers and handwheels with nuts for fastening, as shown in the figures. Attach the dust extraction pipe to the gussets on the back of the stop with screws.

Screw the adjusting screws into the self-locking nuts. Sand the corners of the router's mounting plate until it fits snugly into the recess in the table top.

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From this article you can learn how to make a wood milling machine with your own hands at home to perform basic operations with workpieces. The text sets out step technology tool creation: analysis design features appliance and all components necessary for its installation, drawings with dimensions and detailed descriptions, which will help you create each of these elements and put them together.

Wood milling machines can have various purposes. Some devices are designed to perform only one operation, others are multifunctional. Purchase professional tool- an expensive pleasure, so many craftsmen resort to making a woodworking machine with their own hands. Most often, such a router is used in small furniture workshops.

Milling cutters are usually used to process wood along a straight or curved contour. The cutting head, which performs rotational movements, acts as a working element in the design. In most cases, this part is located vertically. There are many varieties of milling cutters, each of which has its own design features.

The most popular types of devices:

standard single-spindle (the spindle is located vertically);
single-spindle designs, where the spindle or homemade milling table tilts;
copy milling machines with a spindle having an upper placement;
copy structures with a spindle having a horizontal placement (the tool is designed for processing propellers from wood).

Note! In all of the listed designs, except for the last one, the material is fed manually.

Milling machine device: single-spindle designs

The design of a single-spindle machine includes a horizontal table with a pair of tongue-and-groove sockets designed to fix guide rulers. It is mounted on a cast iron frame. Under the table there are sleds that move along the guides. They have a spindle on a thrust bearing and a pair of bearings. At the top of this element is another spindle - plug-in. It is designed for mounting cutting parts.

The sled with spindle can be raised if necessary. For this, a bevel gear with a handwheel or a screw is used. The belt drive allows the spindle to be driven. Moreover, a counter-drive, motor or motor shaft can be used for this.

To make such a wood router with your own hands, you need to take into account some of the nuances. In some cases, you can not do without additional reinforcement of the spindle. Such a need arises if it is necessary to process workpieces high altitude or the part is subjected to severe loads. To do this, you need to install and fix the upper stop on the machine table. This element is fixed on the bracket. To control the movement of the workpiece during the milling process, it is desirable to use a guide ring or ruler.

Machines in which the spindle or table tilts allow you to do a wider range of woodwork with your own hands. In addition to standard operations, such designs allow you to get a higher quality of processing, obtaining a clean and uniform surface. This result can be achieved by cutting the wood at an angle, using cutters with a very small diameter. An instrument with a tilting spindle is much safer and more convenient.

The device of a home-made copier for wood with an upper spindle

These devices are used to perform copying work. It does not require the presence high power. Such designs allow milling and drilling work to create openwork products.

The copier is able to replace three tools at once:

Frazier.
Drilling machine.
Jigsaw.

Wood processing is carried out using cutting mills. Spindle develops a large number of turns, thanks to what the processed surface turns out very pure.

Homemade woodworking machine can be used for various purposes:

boss calibration;
production of openwork frames;
elaboration of the walls of the ribs, etc.

As a basis for this design, a bed made of cast iron is used. Her top part curved in the shape of a sickle. This area is used for mounting the electric motor.

Note! The bed performs the function of a link on which all the elements of a home-made wood milling machine are installed. The stronger and more reliable its design, the better.

The engine is mounted on rails. Due to the system of levers, it can move up and down these elements. This section is set in motion by pressing the pedal, which is equipped with a special stopper. The rotor shaft of the engine is connected to the spindle, where the chuck with the tool is fixed. This cartridge can be self-centering or American.

In the lower zone of the frame, a table is mounted on a movable bracket. This design can move along the guides vertically using a handwheel. There are other options for making a homemade wood milling machine with your own hands, a drawing of this design involves the vertical movement of the table also in the process of work by pressing the pedal. In such models, the electric motor and spindle remain stationary.

How to make a wood lathe with your own hands: drawings and technology

The easiest way to make a tool yourself at home is to construct a lathe or milling machine from a drill or an electric motor taken from another tool. This process is not so complicated, so every master is able to cope with its implementation. This will require an electric motor, the power of which does not exceed 500 W, and improvised materials. A drill can also be used as a drive. Of course, some skills are required to make a lathe.

The following elements are required for the construction of the machine:

metal frame;
electric motor;
handyman;
back grandma.

It does not hurt to get a drawing that will help you navigate in size and correctly manufacture all structural elements for its subsequent assembly.

How to make a homemade drilling machine with your own hands with a motor

First you need to prepare the shaft of the electric motor. To do this, a faceplate is installed on it, and a threaded steel center is also suitable. The installation of the second center is carried out in the tailstock tube. For the manufacture of the bed, you will need a pair of corners measuring 5x3 cm, their length is 15 cm. To the bed using bolted connection the motor is attached.

Note! The central part of the tailstock must necessarily coincide with the middle of the motor shaft.

At the next stage of production homemade machine do-it-yourself headstock is assembled. This element is formed from a pair of horizontal and a pair of vertical corners. A pipe is attached to it, designed for the spindle. You need to insert a bolt into it, the diameter of which is 1.2 cm. Previously, its head is sharpened at a right angle. Thus, the central part of the spindle is indicated. After that, the headstock is installed on the frame. On the top rack, which is connected to the horizontal corners, it is necessary to fix the tube by welding.

To make a handpiece, you need to take a steel rod with a chamfer. Also, this element must have a hole that will be used to secure the reference ruler. It is necessary to vertically weld the tube with the locking screw to the long angle. Then the handpiece rod is inserted into it.

The motor rotor, on which the faceplate is fixed, will be used as the headstock spindle. It needs to make several holes. A fork will be inserted in the central part. The holes along the edges are designed to fix the part with screws.

How to make a wood lathe from a drill with your own hands

Having at hand a workbench with a solid and even work surface, you can build a lathe without resorting to the construction of a bed. Electric drill in this case, it will perform the function of a rotary drive and headstock. According to the simplest drawing of the machine, it is enough to fix this tool on the surface of the workbench through the neck. Clamps and a collar are suitable for fixing.

This element is mounted opposite the drill. To create it, you can take two bars of wood and an adjusting screw, sharpened at one end under a cone. If it is intended to use the machine for processing massive wooden blanks, then it is advisable to fix the stop on the table with clamps.

To make a tool with your own hands, inexpensive materials are enough. Lathe on the basis of a drill, it can be used for turning various parts:

door handles;
structural details of the stairs;
decorative items, etc.

Note! A machine with a wooden clamp is suitable exclusively for processing wood blanks. It is not allowed to use such a tool for working with metal.

To expand functionality tool, its design can be supplemented with nozzles and other devices that can improve the quality of work.

These improvements include:

winding on transformers;
application coloring composition over a rotating part to create patterns;
applying spiral notches to the workpiece, etc.

Installing a special prefix in the form of a copier will allow you to use the machine to create a whole series of identical parts or products according to a template.

How to make a wood milling machine with your own hands: drawings, videos, instructions

Decide on the type of construction, and what tasks the tool will perform.
Decide on the materials that will be used for the construction of each element, and methods of fixation.
Calculate the technical and operational parameters necessary for the full functioning.
Choose for a do-it-yourself CNC wood milling machine drawings with the dimensions of all parts.

To work with complex elements you need a router with a high level of power and large number revolutions. Experts recommend giving preference to devices that have manual spindle adjustment and automatic stabilization. Functions such as quick stop and soft start will be useful. In ideal designs, changing the motor brushes does not require disassembly of the tool body.

Related article:

Instructions for use. Accessories. Recommendations for the choice of designs and an overview of the best models.

The design of the milling cutter consists of the following elements:

countertops;
beds;
spindle
parallel stop;
feed sled;
vacuum cleaner.

Helpful advice! The recommended motor power for the machine is 2 kW or more. A tool with a lower performance will not be able to process workpieces from hard rock wood.

Selection of materials for the manufacture of a woodworking machine with your own hands

In order for the bed to be able to withstand high dynamic loads, it is desirable to use metal as a material for its manufacture. The most suitable option is a pipe with a square or rectangular section. It is allowed to use a massive metal corner.

The choice of such materials allows you to create a design without applying welding machine. All elements are connected by bolts. The design is collapsible, which facilitates its transfer and transportation. In addition, using the appropriate drawing of the milling table, you can create adjustable legs with your own hands. Movable supports allow you to adjust the machine horizontally.

For the manufacture of countertops, the following materials are suitable:

multilayer plywood sheets;
planed board;
MDF, OSB or chipboard.

The table top must have smooth surface. Any irregularities will affect the quality of work. In addition, it is necessary to exclude all factors that can cause scratches during processing of workpieces.

When making a table for a router with your own hands flat surface can be achieved in several ways:

finishing with plastic;
careful adjustment and grinding of planed boards;
metal finishing.

To make a router with your own hands, you can use an asynchronous or commutator motor. The first option is quite unpretentious in operation and does not impose restrictions on the size of the cutters used. Among the shortcomings - high level noise. The commutator motor is more accessible, but its brushes wear out faster.

How to make do-it-yourself router bits

Homemade wood cutters are able to effectively process wood, however, when in contact with hard materials cutting elements become dull quickly. Therefore, the range of application of such parts is significantly limited.

To make a wood cutter with your own hands, you need to take a cylindrical blank and cut off half of its diameter in the area where the cutting zone will be located. After that, it is necessary to smooth out the resulting transition. From the cut part of the workpiece, you need to remove another 1/4 of the diameter and perform a similar operation. Then you should give the processed section of the cutter a rectangular shape. To do this, cut off its lower part. Thickness received working area should be 2-5 mm.

Helpful advice! To cut metal blank under the cutter, you can use a drill or grinder, adapting this tool to perform this task. cutting edge can be made with .

It is desirable to sharpen the cutting part at an angle of 7-10 °. A sharper edge will cut much worse and quickly lose sharpness.
Via grinder corner type, equipped with discs for metal, you can give the cutting part of the cutter the necessary configuration. For these purposes, diamond-coated needle files are also suitable.
If the cutter has a complex configuration, you can flatten or bend it.

How to make a milling machine with your own hands

The simplest milling machine can be made in the same way as the turning tool described earlier. There are several ways to design the leading center of the structure.

In the first case, a steel tube with thin walls is mounted on the shaft. This method is considered the simplest, but it is not without drawbacks. The operator will not be able to process workpieces whose diameter is smaller than the internal section of the pipe. In addition, such a structure cannot be quickly dismantled if necessary.

In the second case, the workpiece will be attached to the faceplate. To do this, you can use screws, for which you first need to make holes. This method also has disadvantages. The diameter of the processed workpieces is limited by the size of the faceplate. To simplify this process, you can make a special cartridge, although in this case it will not be possible to avoid some restrictions.

The back center, which will be used to hold long workpieces, must be installed on the tailstock. The electric motor is mounted on the frame. In general, the simplest designs of turning and milling tools are similar in many ways. If you want to get a more functional device, you can make a CNC milling machine with your own hands, but this will require additional technical knowledge.

Do-it-yourself table manufacturing technology for a router with drawings

There are several design options that can be used to install a desktop CNC router. Tables can be fixed or portable. In addition, there is also an aggregate variety. This design allows you to expand the surface of the table for the use of a router.

Most often, craftsmen prefer stationary structures with a metal frame. Dutch plywood is suitable as a material for the countertop.

Note! When making a table for a manual router with your own hands, you must definitely take into account the height of the person who will work on it.

The list of necessary tools and materials includes:

metal parts for the frame (pipe or corner);
aluminum guides;
axis for fixing the router;
putty, as well as priming and coloring compositions;
self-tapping screws;
furniture bolts (60x6 mm);
hex adjusting bolts with nuts (4 pcs.);
Finnish laminated plywood with moisture resistant properties (sheet thickness 1.8 cm);
material for the manufacture of a parallel stop (plywood or boards);
drill and a set of drills;
screwdriver and electric jigsaw;
welding machine;
accessories (brushes, rags, spatula).

Having everything you need, you can easily make the design of the milling table with your own hands, video reviews of the technology, of which there are many on the net, will help you visually familiarize yourself with this process.

Do-it-yourself CNC machine manufacturing technology: drawings and assembly

CNC router is different from conventional tool the presence of a program that controls its work. In many videos, home-made machines are made on the basis of a beam with a rectangular section, which is fixed on rails. The CNC router is no exception. During the installation of the supporting structure, it is advisable not to use welded joints, it is better to fix it with bolts.

The fact is that the welds are vulnerable to vibration, due to which, over time, the frame will undergo gradual destruction. As a result of changing the geometric dimensions, the equipment will lose its accuracy and quality of processing. It is desirable that the drawing of the table provides for the possibility of moving the tool vertically. Suitable for these purposes screw gear. The rotational movement will be transmitted by means of a toothed belt.

The vertical axis is essential element designs. To make it, you can use aluminum plate. At the same time, it is very important that the dimensional parameters of the axis correspond to the dimensions of the future machine.

Helpful advice! Using a muffle furnace, it is possible to cast a vertical axis from aluminum, taking into account the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The assembly of the machine should begin with the installation of two stepper type electric motors. They are installed behind the vertical axis directly on the body. One engine will control the movements milling head horizontally, the other vertically. Then you need to proceed to the installation of the remaining components of the structure.

The rotational movement will be transmitted to the key elements of the tool using belt drives. Before connecting software control to the finished router, it is imperative to check its performance and, if there are shortcomings, eliminate them. Many craftsmen use video reviews to assemble the machine with their own hands, where this process is discussed in detail.

Equipment for creating a CNC milling machine for wood with your own hands

To create a CNC milling machine at home, it is imperative to use stepper motors. They provide the ability to move the tool in 3 planes. To create a homemade machine, the electric motors present in a dot matrix printer are ideal. It is necessary to ensure that the motors have sufficient power. In addition to engines, steel rods will be required.

A dot matrix printer has only a couple of motors, but three are required to create a router. Therefore, several old printing devices will be required. It is desirable that the motors have 5 control wires. This increases the functionality of the tool.

Other engine parameters are also important:

degree of rotation per step;
winding resistance;
voltage level.

To assemble the drive, you will need a stud and nut. The size of these parts is selected according to the drawing. To fix the motor shaft and the stud, you can use a thick rubber winding from electric cable. A nylon sleeve is suitable as a retainer, a screw should be inserted into it. As an auxiliary tool, you can use a drill and a file.

The instrument will be managed software. An obligatory element of the machine is the LPT port, which provides the connection of the control system to the router through electric motors. The quality of the components used to assemble the machine determines its service life and the quality of the technological operations performed. Therefore, the choice of details should be approached thoroughly. When all the electronic components of the machine are installed and connected, all that remains is to download the drivers and software.

How much will it cost to buy a CNC milling machine: tool prices

If almost any craftsman can handle the manufacture of a manual router and a stationary table, then assembling a CNC machine will seem an impossible task for many. Moreover, home-made designs do not have the capabilities that a factory-made tool can offer.

Helpful advice! If you plan to use a router for complex woodworking, it is better to give preference to factory designs that are accurately calibrated and have many functions.

Prices for them vary depending on the functionality, table size, power, manufacturer and other parameters.

Average prices for factory-made CNC milling machines:

Machine name	Table length, mm	price, rub.
LTT-K0609 (LTT-K6090A)	900	228970
WoodTec MH-6090		246780
LTT-P6090		329120
R.J.1212	1300	317000
WoodTec MH-1212		347350
RUIJIE RJ 1200		399200
WoodTec MH 1325	2500	496350
WoodTec MH-1625		540115
WoodTec VH-1625		669275
RJ 2040	3000	1056750
WoodTec VH-2030		1020935
WoodTec VH-2040		1136000

Assembling a machine with software is a rather complicated process that requires certain skills and knowledge. This work cannot be done without suitable drawing and necessary details. Items such as signal cables, stepper motors, and microprocessor boards can be removed from legacy equipment or purchased online. Many online stores offer ready-made kits for assembling milling machines for home workshops.

Making a wood milling machine with your own hands: video instruction

When processing a surface with a manual router, it often becomes necessary to simultaneously hold the product. For such situations, the milling table is designed.

Of course, you can buy this device in construction stores, but it is not cheap, so it's better to spend a little time and make a router table yourself.

Types of milling tables

The amount of work to be done will depend on which version of the table you need.

Milling tables are of several types:

Stationary
Free standing full desktop.
Portable
desktop design, which is set if necessary.
Aggregate
An option when an expansion of the surface of the saw table is made to work with the router (pictured).

Structural elements

In this article, we will consider a stationary milling table. Having made it, you can independently cope with the design of any other type.

The most important part of the table is the frame. It consists of a frame (legs, frame, etc.) and a table top (including a metal plate and other table components). The bed height varies from 75 cm to 1 meter and is adjusted individually.

As a bed, an old unnecessary table is quite suitable, which is easy to convert into a milling table.

The tabletop is made of chipboard, chipboard, thick plywood or plastic. Optimal Thickness sheet - 16 mm. The material for the bed should be chosen taking into account the fact that they will constantly move along its surface. wooden blanks. Therefore, it must be smooth. Often the countertop is made of metals, not subject to corrosion(eg aluminum).

There is a mounting plate in the middle of the tabletop. Many people think that you can do without this detail, but this is not so. The mounting plate is the holder for all milling equipment.

The thickness of the plate should be no more than 8 mm. The material of manufacture depends on the desire and possibilities. It can be metal, textolite, durable plywood or other sheet material. A hole is cut in the center of the plate, suitable in size for the sole of the router.

Important: router models differ from each other, so when making a table, you should take into account that its height should ideally fit your height, and the router mount and hole size should be exactly for your tool.

Stationary milling table

Consider the option of manufacturing a milling table with a metal frame and a Dutch plywood top.

Materials and tools

In order to make a table for a manual milling cutter with your own hands, you will need materials:

metal corner or pipe (for the frame)
aluminum guide
axis for fastening the router
putty, primer and paint for metal
self-tapping screws
furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm
adjusting hexagon bolts with nuts - 4 pcs.
plywood Finnish moisture resistant laminated, 18 mm thick (other material can be taken)
boards or scraps of plywood (for the manufacture of a parallel stop).

The following tools are also required:

welding machine (for the metal frame of the table)
drill and drills
screwdriver
jigsaw
router
spatula, brushes, rags.

How to make and assemble a transforming table with your own hands:

You may also be interested in an article about how to do it yourself.

And about how to make a table for yourself sewing machine, can be found from

Manufacturing steps

Step 1. To begin with, we make a table frame: the tabletop holder is welded from 4 profile pipes 25 x 25 mm, on one side of the table it is necessary to weld another pipe along which the parallel stop will move. Legs are attached to them.

It is possible to weld on each side of the frame (along the perimeter where the countertop will be located) along a corner long with a pipe so that the countertop sits on these corners in a recess.

Another option that we will use is to install additional supports for the countertop: we weld two more pipes on the long sides, which will serve not only as a support for plywood, but also as a limiter for the router (the distance between them should be such that you can safely cut a hole for fixing the device).

In order to make the workplace more stable, we weld reinforcing jumpers between the legs of the table, at a distance of about 20 cm from the floor.

Step 2 For painting, you need to take oil paint (not suitable for aluminum and galvanizing!). We clean the metal from dirt and degrease it with any solvent (alcohol, kerosene, etc.). If necessary, you can putty the surface with a special putty and prime it.

Note: all actions should be carried out in a respirator and a ventilated area.

For primers you can use the same paint, which will be further stained, but diluted with a solvent. Longer term and qualitative the result is obtained by processing specialized compositions for metal.

After application last standing it is necessary to wait for the full drying out and only then proceed to further actions.

Step 3 We cut the tabletop exactly under the metal frame so that it fits firmly into the corners. For greater strength, you can drill (with a drill for metal) holes in metal pipes (or corners) and fasten the edges of the tabletop to the frame with furniture bolts. The size of the finished tabletop is 84 x 59 cm, the height of the table is 90 cm.

Step 4 At a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge we cut aluminum rail along the entire length of the table.

Step 5 Cut the axis for the milling cutter in half. This will help to increase the space between the sole and the drive axle to 11 mm (if using uncut axles, this distance will be only 6 mm).

Step 6 We remove the sole from the router and in the middle of the table top we mark 4 holes for its fastening, we drill them. In the middle of the tabletop we make a hole under. For each tool, the hole size will be different! Holes are drilled to the left and right of the hole, into which bolts for fastening the clamps of the milling axes are inserted (they will not be removed anymore).

Step 7 On the reverse side, it is necessary to make a large groove under the router sole milling cutter.

In the groove itself, above and below the through hole, cut out small grooves (with a milling cutter) equal in length to the axes. At the ends of the grooves with a Forstner drill, make small recesses for adjusting bolts with hexagonal hole.

Step 8 From the pieces of the pipe we cut out two segments equal to the width of the large groove. We drill holes in them for bolts that cannot be removed. We got the clamps of the axes of the milling cutter. Nuts are screwed onto the bolts.

Step 9 Hex nuts and bolts are placed on both sides axes and necessary in order to plane adjustment milling cutter.

Step 10 We make a parallel stop. To do this, a groove is cut in a small piece of plywood for movement along a pipe specially welded for this. With an electric jigsaw, three plywood strips of the same size are cut (length of the strip = table length + guide tube width) and 4 stiffeners for them.

In one plywood strip, a semicircular hole is made for the exit of chips, which should correspond to the slot in the countertop. In the second strip, a square hole is made in the same place.

The third plywood strip is sawn in half. She is attached to reverse side stripes with square hole using bolts (then you need to make long grooves for their movement) or simple guides. The plywood halves should slide apart different sides. An aluminum guide is installed at the very top edge of this strip.

Step 11 We fasten the first and second strips together with the sides with cutouts. We fasten stiffeners: two - along the edges of the resulting large hole at the junction of plywood strips and one at a time - on both sides (at a distance of 7-10 cm from the edge).

Cut out a small square thin plywood(which would fit between the stiffeners located in the middle), closer to the middle we make a hole equal to the diameter of the vacuum cleaner pipe. Plywood is attached to the stiffeners, forming a triangular box.

Step 12 The parallel stop for the milling table is fixed with clamps. This is done so that the milling table can be easily removed and rearranged. If it is completely designed for a router, you can fix stop using brackets with grooves for its movement.

Step 13 For convenience, we weld a 6 mm metal plate to a regular bolt. Clamps are made of wood, with two grooves for such bolts. It is necessary to have two such clamps.

Step 14 We install the router: we thread our half-cut axles into the side holes of the router, put nuts on them and fix the router with pipe clamps.

Step 15 We flip the table. Using a hex wrench, turn the bolt, lifting the router up (1 turn = 1 mm).

Can be installed with a jack so you don't have to use bolts all the time. To turn on the router, we attach a socket with a switch to one of the legs, which will act as an ON / OFF button.

Note: for convenience, you can provide a small tape for pressing the wire from the router during operation.

Workplace safety

When working with power tools, remember the following safety rules:

While working with the router, be vigilant, do not turn away from it and do not advance the workpieces near the tool with your hands.
Always use restraints, safety goggles and gloves.
Keep children away from the operating machine.
In the event of a malfunction, immediately disconnect the router from the mains and take it to the workshop.

For more information on how to make a table for a manual router, see video:

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