False fire alarms and the consequences of this. Why does the alarm go off on the machine for no reason: possible problems and their elimination. Car alarm repair False alarm

There are times when it periodically gives signals about a malfunction or operation. When the serviceman comes on a call, the device behaves obediently and the loop to which complaints were received stably gives the "norm" state, but as soon as you leave the facility, calls from the customer again come. Most often, this situation occurs in conventional fire or burglar alarm loops. Let's try together to compile a methodology for troubleshooting such faults suitable for most systems.

Even if the cable is already normal, the first step is to turn it off and check the resistance with a multimeter. The resistance must be stable and not differ much from the resistance of the terminating resistor, this difference is on average 30 ohms per 100 meters of the loop (for copper wire 0.4 mm).

If the smoke loop gave a "malfunction" signal, in order to determine a possible poor contact in the socket of one of the detectors or in the connection of the board inside the detector, it is sometimes useful to carry out the following procedure: one installer connects a multimeter (preferably a pointer, but digital is also possible) to the loop disconnected from the device in the mode measurement of resistance and continuously monitors the readings, while another installer walks along the loop, lightly tapping on each smoke detector. Resistance changes will be observed on the problem detector.

If resistance measurements fail, you can measure the current by turning on the multimeter in milliammeter mode in the loop break. This method is especially relevant if the device periodically gives a "Fire" signal in a loop with current-consuming detectors and the indicator on none of the sensors does not light up.
The readings should lie within the acceptable limits of the "normal" state for your control panel, preferably not on the border of these values. If the passport values ​​​​of your control panel are not known, you can compare the readings of the problem loop with normally working ones of the same type. If there is an increased current reading with normal loop resistance, one of the current-consuming loop sensors may be faulty. A faulty sensor is "calculated" by turning them off one by one with simultaneous monitoring of readings; when a faulty detector is turned off, a sharp decrease in current in the loop should be recorded.

Using the current measurement method, you can try to determine the presence of a loop leakage to the ground, for which the current is measured in the plus and minus wires of the loop. In the absence of leakage, the readings should be exactly the same.

If the above methods did not work, you can try to swap the cable with another one of the same type. This will eliminate the malfunction of the control panel itself.

If current-consuming sensors (for example, smoke) are switched on in the problem loop through the "reset relay", it can also be temporarily excluded from the circuit. As a rule, after eliminating the reset relay, it is easier to identify a smoke detector that is temporarily working. If, after the exclusion of the reset relay, the false positives of the loop have stopped, then the reason may be in large numbers current-consuming sensors in this loop or a malfunction of one of the sensors. (At the moment the voltage is applied to the smoke loop, there is often a jump in current consumption, which drops to a normal value within 1-2 seconds). Some devices, such as ASPS "Biryuza", allow you to change the recovery time of the loop after the reset relay is triggered, which sometimes solves the problem.

If nothing helps, the reasons cannot be found, and the loop periodically continues to give false alarms, in the fire loop you can try to temporarily turn off all the sensors and check the performance of a clean loop without sensors. If there are no triggers in such a loop, connect one or more detectors one at a time after a certain period of time, until problematic ones are identified.

Or you can "cut" the cable in parts to determine the problem area.

In security loops, where the opening of sensors is controlled by a separate line, it is often used to identify a moonlighting sensor.

False alarm is a notification generated by the alarm system about the occurrence of an alarm event in the absence of obvious signs that characterize it.

For example, for a burglar alarm, an alarm event can be an intruder's entry, for a fire alarm - a fire or its accompanying factors (temperature increase, smoke).

I see no reason to list the obvious Negative consequences false alarms, so I propose to consider some of the reasons for their occurrence.

1. Violations of the alarm loop circuit.
2. Errors in the design (installation) of signaling.
3. Impact external factors.
4. Electromagnetic interference (pickup).
5. Design features of alarm sensors.
6. Malfunctions of alarm devices.

False positives alarm loop as electrical circuit primarily due to bad contacts. There are actually two reasons -

• poor-quality installation (with this, I think everything is clear)
• natural increase in contact resistance (over time, contacts tend to oxidize, screw connections can loosen. The way out is timely and competent Maintenance).

The second reason for false alarms is due to violation of the requirements of regulatory documents that define the rules for installation, design of the alarm system.

False alarms caused by the influence of external factors imply alarms from the influence of interference on the detectors, similar to the normalized impact. For example, for passive IR detectors, this can be extraneous illumination, conventional air flows, etc. Some Features various sensors described in this section and its accompanying articles.

Of course, all this should be taken into account at the design stage, but there are situations when partial redevelopments, installation of new equipment, etc., are carried out in already protected premises.

Point four, of course, can be attributed to external influences, but it is worth talking about it separately. This influence can safely be called "dark forces of electricity". deceit electromagnetic radiation and the tipping lies in the fact that the intensity and place of their impact are purely individual for each object, and even there they are not a constant.

False alarms may occur without any explicit pattern. By the way, false positives from these reasons are the result of technological progress. Alarm sensors are constantly becoming more complex, overgrown with new functionality, use new technologies and become more sensitive not only to the detection of the required impacts, but also to third-party impacts.

Plus, add here such a factor as the unwillingness of manufacturers to increase the cost of products by complicating the design, aimed at compensating for such reasons for triggering, caused, in turn, by the desire of the consumer to receive an alarm system for a penny.

The features that affect the false alarms of alarm sensors can also include some individual (for specific types) design flaws, for example, an unsuccessful smoke chamber for fire detectors.

Speaking about malfunctions of alarm devices, of course, I meant "floating" malfunctions (that is, it is not). Also, by the way, the thing is unpleasant, but easier to detect than the previous ones.

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False alarm- this is one of the most unpleasant moments of an incorrectly working security system fire alarm. False alarms can be caused by poor installation, electromagnetic interference, weather conditions(for example, a roof leak or extreme temperature changes). Therefore, it is important to quickly and accurately identify the cause of the false alarm system and eliminate it.

Causes and remedies for false alarms

The most common cause of false alarms is a broken contact in the loop. Whole system security and fire alarm is operational if there are good contacts in the loops. Poor quality twists, temperature changes external environment, changes in air humidity - all this can lead to broken contacts. The alarm loop must be made with a wire for fire and security alarms of the KSPV brand with a cross section of at least 0.5 mm and laid in a mounting box (cable channel). To date, some assembly organizations to reduce the cost of installation, wires of the TRP and TRV brands are used on nails. After some time, the nails rust, and where they openly touch the wires. The resistance of the fire alarm loop changes, the loop starts to ground, and this leads to false alarms. When a source is found false alarms, it needs to be localized.
In addition, electromagnetic interference can also affect the alarm system. Interference can affect both the control panel and the sensors themselves (detectors). This problem most often occurs in smoke detectors that are installed on suspended ceilings. In this situation, the loop cable often lies on the ceiling frame, mixed with lighting cables, and discharge lamps with high-frequency (chokeless) ballasts become a source of terrifying interference, and yet they are located in close proximity to fire detectors.
Before designing fire alarm systems, it is necessary to determine what degree of rigidity the equipment should have for use at a particular facility. In the regulatory framework, the requirements for electromagnetic compatibility technical means fire automatics are set out in Appendix M to GOST R 53325-2009. In accordance with this document, in the passport for the product in without fail the degree of immunity of each device shall be specified. This appendix provides references to basic EMC standards.
For the OPS, it is important that all wires and cables are connected using terminal blocks in boxes of the UK-2 and KRTP type and, if possible, twisting is not allowed. However, if there is still a twist, then it must be reliable and soldered. One of the reasons for false positives is that when stripping the wire, it “bites”. Due to the effects of moisture and high temperatures, the connections in the terminal blocks and twists are oxidized, and the wires break at the point of bite. The resistance of the alarm loop changes and occurs t false alarm OPS.
A potential source of problems for FSO systems is the popular loop. This plume may turn out to be a huge loop antenna, highly susceptible to both magnetic and electric fields over a wide range. If the PPC does not provide a sufficient degree of isolation between the two ends of the loop, then if electromagnetic interference is detected, the loop must be broken.
The cause of false alarms may be poor-quality installation of detectors. In this case, magnets and reed switches of magnetic contact detectors may not be screwed evenly. Over time, wooden doors and vents dry out and the gap between the magnet and the reed switch grows. This gives hard-to-detect false alarms. In addition, the magnet metal door may become demagnetized.
False fire alarms can cause infrared sensors directed at the heat source when the curtains are stirred, with the window open. This is due to the fact that the infrared sensor is aimed at thermal devices, and the movement of the curtains and the open window causes air movement, thus, the temperature is quickly distributed in the detector's visibility zone and this causes a false alarm. Therefore, never point the infrared sensor at a heat source.
False positives give and acoustic (sound) detectors. The detector can react to a strong sharp sound (for example: fireworks outside the window, a low-flying plane or a car passing near the house). To combat this problem, it is necessary to reduce the sensitivity of the device.
In conclusion, we note that the fire alarm system is a system that requires periodic maintenance by qualified personnel. In the absence of maintenance, the probability of false alarms and system failures increases many times and there is no possibility of prompt restoration of the security alarm system. Subject to the elementary rules of use and the implementation of scheduled maintenance - false alarmssignaling are reduced to a minimum.

False alarms are the most annoying flaw that a fire alarm system can have. Unfortunately, nowhere in the promotional materials you will find any parameters that allow you to assess the likelihood of false alarms. Even worse, any technique, no matter how wonderful, can fall victim to poor editing, time or interference. Therefore, installers and especially operators must know possible reasons false alarms and how to look for them.
The most common cause of false alarms is bad contact in the alarm loop. No wonder electronics is jokingly called the science of contacts: their absence, where they are needed, and their presence, where they should not be. Twisting, cheap steel terminal blocks, breaking single-core wires - and now, after a year or two, contact is already beginning to disappear. A very unpleasant malfunction, depending on the temperature or humidity of the air, it may not appear for months, but will come out to the surface, for example, at minus 30 on the street, so that it would be “more pleasant” to look for it. Or it will appear at night, and during the day a repairman comes - everything is in order, everything works. Such a malfunction is very difficult to identify and eliminate.
Often the cause is electromagnetic interference. Moreover, interference can affect both the control panel and (more often) the sensors (detectors) themselves. This nuisance is typical for firefighters. smoke detectors installed on false ceiling. In this case, the loop cable often simply lies on the ceiling frame, mixed with lighting cables. And the gas-discharge lamps themselves with high-frequency (chokeless) ballasts are often a source of terrifying interference, and they are located very close to fire detectors.
The third most common cause is installation flaws. In this case, I don’t mean a bad wire connection, but a poor-quality one. mechanical installation devices.
For example, the reed switch is placed crookedly, the magnet is slightly demagnetized from time to time, wooden door dried out and skewed, and now the reed switch honestly gives the signal “the door is open”. Press harder - the norm, slightly pull the locked door - alarm. Most reed switches have a reliable operation distance of only 1-2 cm. Such a malfunction is easy to identify if you glue a magnet to the reed switch (do not forget that by doing so you actually turned off the reed switch - it stopped detecting the opening of the door). If a false alarms for the time of the check they stopped, which means that this is the problem, mount the reed switch and the counterpart (magnet) on the door more carefully or even replace the reed switch with a more “long-range” one.
By the way, the reverse malfunction is also not uncommon: the reed switch stops signaling the opening of the door. It happens on steel doors if the frame itself is sufficiently magnetized.
In addition to reed switches, poor-quality installation can also affect, for example, infrared motion sensors. The sensor hangs on one screw and sways from slamming doors in neighboring rooms. And in his field of vision is a heating battery. If the sensor were rigidly fixed, the battery would not interfere with it. And so - here you have false alarms.
In general, infrared sensors are easy to put incorrectly - opposite the window and the radiator. Theoretically, it will still work, but a window flapping in the wind or a fluttering curtain objectively ensures a rapid change in the temperature distribution in the field of view of the sensor. This cannot even be called a false alarm - the sensor honestly captures the movement of something warm against a cold background. Similarly, an acoustic glass break detector can objectively respond to a very strong sharp sound (almost anyone can be alarmed by clapping their hands directly in front of them). It is not necessary to unconditionally believe what they say and write about complex spectral analysis. Yes, computer programs can distinguish sounds very accurately. But in order for serial sensors to be able to distinguish the sound of glass from other similar sounds so well, it is necessary that they also have a Pentium of several gigahertz. True, they would consume then, like a computer, and cost the same. Therefore, I do not even consider false alarms triggered by a glass-break sensor in the dining room, where knives are constantly dropped on the tile. If this is a problem for you, screw the sensitivity. Or put the sensor behind the curtains near the window - then it will hear the sound of breaking glass well and will not hear the sounds of the New Year's corporate party from the room.
Now let's look at how you can find and fix the problem. Main principle: The source of false alarms must first be located. This is not easy, false alarms, as already mentioned, can occur quite rarely (but often enough to make the customer nervous). You arrive at the facility, tightened all the screws in the connections, checked the integrity of the wires, even rang the loop with a tester (ohmmeter) and made sure that everything seemed to be in order, and a week later they told you again that there was a false alarm twice. Well, it's time to tackle the problem systematically.
First question: do false alarms always occur in the same loop or in different loops? If the PPC has a good event log and you can view it, great. If not, you will have to negotiate with the guards on duty so that they write down when and which light was on in case of an alarm. How to negotiate, the question is not for me. If you don't know how, read about the art of getting along with people or other similar opuses. As a result, you will know where alarms occur and when. Sometimes it is possible to correlate the time of alarms with inclusions, for example, industrial equipment- it means that the problem is in electromagnetic interference and it is necessary, according to the manufacturer's recommendations, to be shielded, grounded or, conversely, powered from separate power sources. Discuss countermeasures with the system developer, they will not be happy, but they will advise something. Or you can simply replace the failed detectors with other types (for example, smoke detectors with heat detectors) - this can also help.
If the false alarms occur more or less uniformly across all loops, the problem is probably with the PPC. Replace it, preferably with a different model. If it doesn’t help, we consider that the system is simply running as a whole (or there are equally low-quality detectors everywhere), and we begin to fight in turn with each loop (if there are a lot of loops in the system, then it’s better to have several at once). During such a struggle, parts of the system are turned off for a while and the security of the object is reduced, so be sure to coordinate this with the person responsible for security. You may even have to temporarily deploy a backup system, for example, a radio channel, it is easier to quickly mount it and then dismantle it.
So, troubleshooting in a separate loop. The only one scientific method This is the bisection method. You break the loop in the middle, transfer the terminating resistor there (or rather, put a new terminating resistor) and wait for a while. If earlier false alarms happened about once a week, you have to wait about a month. There are no false alarms - the problem is in the cut off piece of the loop. We connect it back and cut this piece in the middle, so now ¾ of the cable remains connected.
If there were false alarms at the first stage, then the problem is on the connected part (there may also be problems in the cut off piece, but first we will try to catch at least one by the tail). We divide the near piece in half again (¼ of the loop remains connected) and wait again.
And so on until we find a specific sensor that gives false alarms. Attention: if, for example, you have electromagnetic interference and false alarms given evenly by all sensors, then as pieces of the loop are cut off, alarms will occur less and less. If so, increase the exposure time. The whole epic, if false alarms are not very frequent, and the loops have many sensors on each, can stretch for months.
The second way is to replace the hardware. It is especially appropriate if there are many false alarms on different loops. You choose one of the loops and change all the sensors on it to the most reliable and expensive ones you can afford. For a single loop, this is usually not that expensive. Although it is very laborious and often ugly in terms of the cheapest - reed security sensors. If it helped, then in case security loop with different types of sensors can be gradually put back different types sensors and find out which sensors are the problem. It’s more difficult with firefighters - there usually the entire loop consists of the same sensors, and if replacing them with good ones helped, then it means that all the bad ones just stood before. Not that they were all hopelessly bad. Perhaps in other situations they can work, but specifically in yours, at this facility, they are unsuitable.
In the case of fire detectors, there is another reason: cheap products can have a very large variation in parameters. Half of them, for example, are quite resistant to interference, and some work, as they say, from a sideways glance. If it is economically justified, you can gradually, in several pieces, put back the old sensors. You may be able to select those that do not give false alarms.
A special case is address systems. Of course, addressable detectors are usually more expensive and of higher quality than conventional ones. But there are no perfect products. In many cases, they can also give false alarms. But the search for problems is much easier. Firstly, you do not need to suffer with dividing the loop in half, you initially know which detectors give out a false alarm. This will already save you several months. Secondly, all address systems known to me have good means event logging so you can get information down to minutes or even seconds when false alarms occurred. Finally, addressable detectors often provide options for detailed diagnostics or setting their parameters. You can change some parameters, at least just coarsen the sensitivity. I will not give specific recommendations, it all depends on the types of devices.
In general, troubleshooting in an addressable system is much more pleasant than in a non-addressed one. Instead of running around with a ladder and tools, most operations can be done from the system's control panel. However, in the address system, the same time-consuming and time-consuming method of dividing in half may be needed. This is usually necessary if the problem is intermittent loss of communication with individual detectors. If it is a matter of poor contact (loop break), then the location of the loop damage can be calculated by analyzing with which detectors the connection is lost, and with which it is always stable. If the reason is a short circuit of the communication line, then you will have to divide in half. However, even in this case the situation is easier than in the non-address case. When dividing in half, it is not necessary to completely turn off the rest of the loop, it is enough to insert one or more short circuit insulators. When the short makes itself felt, it will disable the damaged section, and you will know where to look for the problem.
In conclusion, we describe recommendations for combating electromagnetic interference. This activity is not so much a science as an art. Some consider it shamanism. Indeed, in complex systems, consisting of hundreds of products connected by kilometers of cable and located among many other electrical installations, it is simply impossible to accurately calculate the influence of one device on another. The same actions in one case can help, in another they will only worsen the situation. But there is general principles, which should be understood in order not to go through all possible combinations by trial and error.
The first recommendation from all system manufacturers is to use shielded cable. Yes, it often helps. Although in the current system it is usually almost impossible to replace an already laid cable with a shielded one. However, let's look at some details. The screen on the cable itself can help a lot. Even if it is not connected anywhere. Often this is even The best decision– leave the cable shield unconnected. In any case, the screen equalizes the effect of interference on all wires in the cable, and therefore the difference interference signals applied to the devices are reduced. In no case should the screen be grounded (or even connected somewhere) from both ends. Because in this case, the screen becomes not a screen, but an additional conductor through which an unpredictable current flows. This is called a ground loop, more on that below. Often optimal solution– ground or neutralize the screen from the control panel side. It is the control panel that receives the signal from the loop, and if the screen is connected to a reference point inside the control panel, then the interference on all cable cores relative to this point will be minimal. Depending on the circuitry, it may not be optimal to ground, but to connect, for example, to the control panel case, to the negative power wire of the control panel, or even to the negative wire of the loop. By the way, the PPK case, if it is metal, in theory, must be grounded. But in practice, if the ground (the third wire in the power supply) is not of very high quality (it itself contains a lot of interference), it may turn out that it is better not to connect anywhere than to such a ground.
In addition to cable shielding, the shielding of a noise-prone detector is sometimes used. A sheet of copper foil or galvanized sheet is placed under the detector from the side of the intended source of interference (for example, if there is an elevator motor behind the wall or milling machine). Aluminium foil from a chocolate bar is ineffective, because it has a rather low conductivity. It is often useful to connect such a screen to the minus of the detector power supply with a separate rather thick wire.
Often, an unplanned contact is the way interference enters. Worst of all, when one or different wires in the system are grounded in different places. The same ground loop mentioned above. Different points of the earth have very different potentials (the earth is not a very good conductor), as a result, a so-called equalizing current will flow through a wire grounded in several places. Including this can be a reverse current from a passing tram (in theory, it should flow along the rails, but if there is a bad contact, it will flow remarkably along your cable) or balancing current three-phase motor rolling mill. There are cases when such a current evaporated unsuccessfully grounded cables and completely disabled equipment. The result, as a rule, is not so tragic, but the influence of interference increases many times over.
Please note: multiple grounding can occur in addition to your desire. For example, a train laid with noodles was fastened with nails. The nail touched one of the wires and grounded plaster mesh- and you're done, here it is an unexpected point of secondary grounding. In theory (according to GOST), all control panels are designed to operate with a leakage resistance in the loop up to 50 or even 20 kOhm. But the possible effect of interference with such a leakage to earth is unpredictable. Often, when checking loops, only the resistance and insulation between the wires are checked. Don't forget to check for ground leakage - this is even more important in terms of interference. If the resistance to ground is less than 1 Mohm, problems are very likely.
Another way for interference to penetrate is to lay the power line of the detectors and the signal line in different cables. This occurs when remote detectors are connected to a separate power source located near them. In this case, the interference induced on the power line and on the signal line are different, and this potential difference is applied to the detector. Again, in theory (more precisely, according to GOST), the detectors should easily tolerate interference from the loop. But the possible interference is much more diverse than the test ones used during the tests. Maybe everything will be fine, maybe not.
By the way, a ring loop, popular in fire alarms, is a potential source of problems. Such a plume can turn out to be a huge loop antenna, very susceptible to both magnetic and electric fields in a wide range. If the FCP does not provide a sufficient degree of isolation between the two ends of the ring loop (and many FCPs do not isolate them at all), then if EMI is suspected, you can try to break the ring. May I help.
Another source of interference is the power supply. Try turning it off. Absolutely, both wires. Let the system run on battery for a while. If it helped, false alarms stopped - put an isolation transformer, stabilizer, online UPS - all this possible ways isolated from interference coming from the mains.
And finally, as a last resort, I can advise you to try to break one big system into several smaller ones. Instead of one 48-stub device, put three 16-stub devices connected to different blocks nutrition. Or divide one integrated system into several autonomous ones. The problem may be that the size of the system of directly connected devices has exceeded the allowable in this location. Again, if it helped, then later it is possible, taking precautions, for example, with galvanic isolation of communication lines, to connect the system again into a single one. The main thing is to determine the source of the problem, then it will be possible to find a suitable solution.

Its presence provides protection material assets, which may be present on the object and be a potential profit for intruders.

In order for the existing alarm system to guarantee the required level of protection, it is important that it is constantly in good condition and could be triggered when an unauthorized entry into the facility was attempted.

But, quite often it happens that the alarm goes off spontaneously, causing a lot of inconvenience to the owners of the facility and the security services that serve it.

If tripping occurs frequently enough, it is important to have it serviced or repaired, otherwise it will practical use will not have the desired effect.

Causes of a false alarm in the apartment

If the alarm is triggered for no reason, then there is probably a problem in the operation of one of its elements, as a result of which a false alarm is generated.

To exclude the possibility of this kind of false positives, you should understand the reasons that can lead to this.

The main ones include:

1. violation of the integrity of the alarm loop;
2. errors and miscalculations that were made during the design and installation of the alarm;
3. influence of external factors;
4. exposure to electromagnetic interference and interference;
5. structural features of security sensors;
6. malfunctions of individual devices that are part of the alarm.

False alarms due to a malfunction of the alarm loop occur due to poor electrical contact. This can be observed in cases where the installation of the loop is poor, as well as with an increase in electrical resistance at the contacts.

The resistance can increase several times if the contacts are oxidized or their connection is loosened.

The second reason for false alarm activation is due to the fact that some companies do not adhere to the appropriate normative documentation, design and installation rules.

External factors can also provoke situations when the alarm went off without penetration through the protected perimeter.

These factors include air currents, pets, extraneous vibrations and other influences that can trigger a particular security sensor.

Electromagnetic interference and interference can be generated by various devices that have in their composition electrical systems. It is very difficult to predict the impact of such interference, so protection against them is provided at the stage of creating a security alarm.

Also, such pickups can also occur in cases where an attacker tries to disable or damage the security system.

Often, the design of the security sensor can also be the cause of false alarms. This happens when, due to the poor design of some elements, the sensor quickly becomes clogged with dust or various insects. As a result of this, its operation and the formation of alarm signals can be provoked.

No one is safe from breakdowns of individual devices that make up the alarm system. Therefore, if at least one sensor fails, it may happen that you have to perform emergency turn-off alarms.

Which sensors are prone to false positives and why?

Most often, false alarms occur due to motion sensors.

The sensitive element of this device can detect the movement of a pet (if any), wind currents from a draft, spontaneous overturning of some thing.

The window opening sensor can work if the user forgot to close the window tightly, and it opens under the influence of external wind.

If the house has laser sensors motion detection, even a poster torn off the wall can trigger a false alarm.

In the event that the alarm system of the apartment is equipped sensitive sensors vibrations, it can happen that when a huge object falls on the neighbors from above, vibrations through the wall and ceiling can trigger the vibration sensor.

If at least one of the listed events occurs, then there is a possibility that the security equipment will work and the alarm will need to be turned off due to a false alarm.

Ways to turn off a house alarm in case of a false alarm

If an analog alarm system is installed in the apartment and it happened spontaneous operation, then you need to call the security console, whose employee will turn it off when the owner confirms the corresponding password.

For those who have installed digital alarm, its deactivation is carried out using a special magnetic key or entering the appropriate code on the electronic control panel for managing the operation of the alarm. Also some security systems may have a remote radio-controlled key fob or remote control.

In addition, some models can be controlled using mobile devices by sending special SMS messages.

If all the devices that control the operation of alarms are at hand, then solving the problem of how to turn off the alarm will be quite simple.

How to turn off the alarm without a remote control?

Many are interested in the question of how to turn off the alarm in the apartment if the remote control is lost.

There are several ways to implement this process, but for the subsequent use of the alarm, the remote control will have to be found or ordered from the appropriate company that maintains this kind of alarm.

• You can turn off the power supply to the alarm. In this case, it will be de-energized, which will stop the continuous howling of the siren and the operation of other means of visual and sound notification.
• If the above method does not turn off the alarm due to the presence of a backup power source, you need to turn it off.
• Emergency removal of the alarm without a remote control can also be done with the help of a security company dispatcher, if such services are used. It will be necessary to call the operator and, having pronounced the code word-password, after which the alarm will turn off.
• One of simple ways to silence the alarm is to turn off visual and audible warning systems. Many people know how to turn off the alarm siren - to do this, just turn off the external power supply or remove the internal battery. Other warning devices can be disabled in the same way.

Conclusion

If a false alarm is detected, it is imperative to identify the reason why it could occur.

To do this, it is best to turn to professionals who are engaged in the installation and maintenance of burglar alarms.

With the help of special equipment, specialists will quickly identify a non-working link and eliminate the breakdown. After that, the alarm will still function well, protecting property from intruders and thieves.