Redcurrant: the best varieties, planting and care technology. Planting redcurrant: rules and recommendations

Redcurrants are easy to care for and the bushes produce a rich harvest. You can make various desserts, compotes, jams, etc. from berries.

Planting red currant

It is necessary to plant currants at the end of summer or at the beginning of autumn. Biennial and annual seedlings are planted at a distance of one and a half to two meters, both along the fences and on summer cottages. On the latter, the bushes are placed in several rows, between which a two-meter distance is left.

In order for currant bushes to grow and bear fruit safely, it is necessary to carefully prepare the soil (loosen, fertilize, water).

It is preferable to plant bushes on small hills. In the lowlands, water usually accumulates, which can flood the bushes. Try to expand the planting away from trees and buildings, as redcurrants love sunny places.

Prepare holes with a diameter of at least a meter, after which put eight to ten kilograms of manure into each of them, and also add a mixture of potassium sulfate, wood ash, and superphosphate. If you plant currants in acidic soil, then add some ground limestone to it.

The process itself has its own nuances. For example, the tips of the roots of a seedling need to be trimmed and dipped in a mixture of mullein or clay so that they are securely fixed in the soil.

The neck of the root should be deepened slightly, by about five centimeters, no more, but when twitching, the bush should not come out of the ground. After planting, it is necessary to water the soil near the shrubs and cut their top at a height of about twenty centimeters from the ground.

In summer cottages, currants are planted along fences at a distance of one and a half meters. Can be planted in a separate area. The distance between seedlings is two meters.

Currants are planted strictly vertically. The neck of the root should be flush with the soil. The plant tolerates the carbonate content of the soil, so it can be planted in such areas.

Currants are watered from the ratio of one bucket to 2-3 bushes. After watering, fertilizer is poured around the bushes - peat or humus.

For creating favorable conditions development of plants every year the soil near them is dug up. This makes it easier for water to get inside to feed the roots. In spring, loosen the soil and remove weeds.

To get rid of weeds, you need to regularly mulch. Mulch is applied immediately after the first loosening. The soil at this time contains the necessary supply of water.

Manure, sawdust, peat or straw are poured under the bushes. The layer of mulch should be from four to fifteen centimeters. After cultivation, the soil remains loose throughout the summer.

On a note:

If you plant currants in the fall, then place different varieties nearby. This will provide cross-pollination, which will have a beneficial effect on yields.

Varieties of red currant

Assora

The bush is spreading. Its height is one and a half meters. Berries of medium size, light red. Average number of seeds. Late variety.

Buzhanskaya

The height of the bush is one and a half meters. Grows straight, very productive. The berries are bright red in color, with a thin skin, they are large in size. Clusters of various lengths. The taste of berries is sweet and sour. They ripen at the same time and practically do not crumble to the ground.

Valentinovka

Quite a tall bush - from 1.4 to 1.9 meters, grows straight, the leaves are thick. The weight of the berries is 0.5 g, small, one-dimensional, red. The seeds are large and quite numerous. The size of the brushes is more than ten centimeters. Hang evenly. Berries taste sour. Ripen in late July - early August. From one bush you can collect up to three and a half kilograms of berries.

Natalie

Weakly sprawling, dense bush of one and a half meters in length. Large berries, weighing up to one gram. In shape, they are slightly elongated towards the base. Color - deep red. Few seeds, all of medium length. The length of the brush is about eight centimeters. It can be either more or less. The taste, like many berries, is sweet and sour.

The ripening period falls in mid-July. Harvest from a bush - up to eight kilograms. The berries are delicious.

Leader

The average period of ripening of berries. The bush is slightly sprawling, one and a half meters. The weight of the berries is up to one gram, they are round in shape, with a thin skin, red in color. Seeds are small and small.

The brush is longer than the previous species - up to thirteen millimeters. The taste of berries is sweet. Ripens early to mid-July. From one bush you can collect about three kilograms of crop.

Viksne

Berries ripen early. The spreading bush reaches a height of up to 1.8 meters. Its shape is wrong. Berries have a cherry color, their size is medium. There are very few seeds, but they are quite large in size.

The taste is very pleasant, delicate, sweet and sour. The berry ripens in late June - early July. The currant bush can be affected by the red-gall aphid. From one bush you can collect up to five kilograms of berries.

Vika

Berries ripen early. The height of the bush is up to one and a half meters, thick, upright.

The berries are medium in size, purple-red in color. There are enough seeds, the skin on the berries is thin. The brush is dense, hangs beautifully, its length can be more than ten millimeters. The taste of berries is sweet and sour, and the proportion of sweet is higher. Currant ripens at the end of July.

Dutch pink

Compact bush, one and a half meters high with large pink berries. The number of seeds is average, the skin of the berries is thin. From one bush you can collect up to five kilograms of crop.

The brush is quite long, the berries growing on it are very tasty. Beginning of ripening - mid-July.

Darnitsa

The height of the bush is up to 1.8 meters. Berries are large, dark red. Average number of seeds. Many people like it. Berries ripen in mid-July. Currant bush is resistant to disease.

Generous

Powerful, dense, wide bush up to two meters in height. The shape of the berries is slightly elongated, their color is translucent, bright red. The seeds are large, but very few. The brush is the shortest of the options presented - only six centimeters. The taste of berries is pleasant, moderately sour.

Ripening occurs at the end of June - beginning of July. Flowers fall off due to frost damage. Unfortunately, the plant is not resistant to other diseases.

Konstantinovskaya

Weakly sprawling one and a half meter, dense bush. Berries different size– medium to large, slightly laterally compressed and slightly glossy. Seeds are small and medium in size.

The brush is dense, reaches a length of nine centimeters. The berries taste sweet and sour, ripen in mid-July. From the bush you can harvest four kilograms of the crop. Bush do not "take" fungal diseases and aphids.

Dream

Vigorous bush, up to two meters in height, dense. Berries of red color of different sizes, both large and medium. The brush is hanging down, up to seven millimeters in length. Berries are sweet and sour. Berries ripen in the middle of summer, from one bush they can be collected up to seven kilograms. The bush can be partially affected by powdery mildew.

Now you know some types of red currants, from more than fifty, and how to care for them.

Red currant - perennial deciduous shrub height from 0.5 to 2 m. In the wild, it is found on the edges of the forest, on the banks of rivers or streams throughout Eurasia. This is a favorite berry of many gardeners, modern varieties with good care capable of producing up to 10–12 kg of juicy berries of a sour taste.

The history of growing red currants

The first mention of red currant in Western Europe belong to the 15th century. The plant was used to form a hedge, and the berries were used in medicinal purposes. Around the same time, currants began to be grown in Russia, mainly at monasteries, using berries as medicine and making tinctures from them.

A well-groomed red currant bush is very beautiful during the ripening period of berries and can decorate any garden.

Currently, the leading country in the cultivation of red currants is the United States. But even in Russia they do not forget about this culture: on almost every garden plot you can find 1-2 bushes.

Red currant is a winter-hardy plant, withstands frosts down to -40 ° C. In summer, thanks to a powerful root system, it suffers much less from heat than black currant, and the life expectancy of a bush is up to 20 years without a decrease in yield.

In dry gardens without watering and human attention, redcurrant bushes grow up to 50–70 cm in height and produce a small crop. With regular fertilizing and watering, or in low-lying places where groundwater is close to the ground, red currant grows into a powerful bush up to 2 m in height and can produce up to 12 kg of berries.

Currant blooms with inconspicuous flowers collected in a brush

Currant blooms in May with inconspicuous yellow-green flowers collected in a brush. Depending on the region and variety of currant, ripening of berries may begin by mid-June or July. Ripening is uneven: the berries that are in the sun are the first to sing. Red currants rarely fall off the bush, so they can be harvested as needed. They pick red currants like grapes - with a brush, without tearing off the berries, so they are better stored and transported.

Red currants are harvested from the bush in clusters

Redcurrant satisfies both hunger and thirst; it has a lot of vitamin C, the daily norm of which can be replenished by eating just a handful of this berry. In addition, the berry contains pectin, so redcurrant jelly is thick. Compotes, jams, jams, jelly, marmalade, tinctures, wines, liqueurs are prepared from it.

Varieties of red currant

In order to enjoy fresh redcurrant berries all summer long, you can plant varieties that differ in terms of ripening: early, mid-ripening and late. You can also pick up bushes with different shades of berries: red, burgundy, pink. Some varieties of red currants perfectly bear fruit as single bushes, that is, they are self-fertile (able to be pollinated by their own pollen), while others need a pollinator neighbor.

Depending on the variety, red currant berries can be small (0.7 g) or large, reaching 1.5 cm in diameter and weighing up to 1.5 g.

Table: main varieties of red currant

Variety	Ripening period	bush height	Brush length	yield	Peculiarities
early	tall	8-13 cm	up to 10 kg	self-fertile, winter-hardy, resistant to powdery mildew
Konstantinovskaya	early	medium height	8-9 cm	up to 4 kg	self-fertile, winter-hardy, large berries, resistant to anthracnose
Erstling Aus Vierlanden	average	tall	9-13 cm	up to 18 kg	large berries up to 1.5 cm in diameter, frost-resistant, resistant to anthracnose
average	tall	9-13 cm	up to 6.5 kg	average self-fertility, frost-resistant, densely leafy, resistant to anthracnose
average	tall	7–9 cm	up to 12 kg	self-fertile, hardy, medium resistance to powdery mildew and anthracnose
late	tall	7–8 cm	up to 5 kg	winter-hardy, resistant to diseases and pests
Rondom	late	tall	9-13 cm	up to 15–25 kg	one of the best varieties in Europe, resistant to diseases and pests

Photo gallery: varieties of red currant for the Moscow region

2 weeks before planting the seedling, a hole is prepared with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of a shovel bayonet

We mix the excavated soil with a bucket of compost (humus), a glass of ash and 200 g of superphosphate. We fall asleep again in the hole and carefully water to compact the soil.

Planting red currant cuttings

If you want to try new variety it is better to order planting material with a closed root system - in pots or special bags.

It is better to buy cuttings with a closed root system

Local nurseries often grow currants outdoors without pots and sell them with an open root system, so take care of the roots in advance: take a damp rag and a bag with you to wrap the bottom of the seedling.

The best time for planting red currants in central Russia is the beginning of autumn, literally the first days of September: the summer heat is gone, and the cuttings take root perfectly. For southern regions landing dates are shifted a month later.

Stages of planting red currant:

How to save redcurrant seedlings before planting

Sometimes it happens that the purchased seedlings arrive too early in the spring, when there is still snow in the garden and planting on permanent place impossible.

Storing a seedling with an open root system in a warm apartment is simply unacceptable. When it is not possible to place the plant in a cool basement, for example, if the buds have already opened, then you need to take a pot or planter with fertile soil and temporarily plant a seedling there.

Small seedlings obtained in autumn can be stored until spring without planting them in pots, but by laying them on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. First you need to wrap the roots with a damp cloth, and the trunks with thick paper.

Planting red currant seeds

Currant reproduces well by seeds, but very often the descendants do not repeat the qualities of the parent bush, especially if several different varieties of red currant grow on the site, which can be pollinated.

Usually, the seeds of a ripe berry are simply squeezed onto the soil, sprinkling them with earth. Spring waters promote swelling and germination of seeds, and by the end of summer small but strong seedlings grow.

Video: seed currant

Friends and foes of red currant

Many gardeners are aware of the compatibility of vegetables and specifically select pairs for better fruiting and neighborhood. But not everyone even suspects that among bushes and trees there is also mutual love and enmity.

Most often, you can observe the planting of shrubs along the fence, and black and red currants are planted side by side. Turns out, best neighbor for red currants, gooseberries are used, and black currants prefer honeysuckle as neighbors, rather than their red-berry relatives.

The best neighbor for red currants is gooseberries

In addition, all berry bushes love planting tomatoes, marigolds, calendula, mint and other aromatic herbs in their near-stem circle. With their essential oils, they drive away various currant pests.

Red currant nutrition

In the year of planting, red currant does not need additional feeding, because a significant amount of humus is introduced into the pit and mineral fertilizers.

In subsequent years, currants should be fed at least 2 times a year: in spring and autumn.

Table: top dressing of red currant

In addition to these dressings, it is very good to mulch trunk circle straw, grass, hay, leaves, and shed every 2 weeks with preparations containing beneficial bacteria (Siyaniye, Baikal EM-1, Vostok).

Never feed currants with nitrogenous fertilizers at the end of summer - a new growth of shoots will begin, which will not have time to prepare for winter and freeze.

Photo gallery: preparations to increase soil fertility

To rejuvenate the plant, all branches are cut flush with the ground.

1. First of all, remove old thick and dark brown branches, cutting them off at ground level.
2. Remove fattening shoots growing upwards, leaving sloping ones.
3. Remove horizontally directed lower branches.
4. Remove shoots growing inside the bush.

Red currant loves to have a bush blown by the wind, so a regular haircut is a must.

Reproduction of red currant

The easiest way to propagate currants is by cuttings or layering - in this case, the young bush will completely repeat the mother plant.

Reproduction by cuttings

1. At the end of August, when rejuvenating pruning, cut off a few shoots and cut into pieces 20-25 cm long, remove the leaves.
2. Each shoot should have 4–5 buds, make the lower cut oblique 0.5–1 cm below the bud, and the upper cut straight 1 cm above the bud.
3. Dip each cutting with the lower part in Kornevin preparation and plant it in the soil in a permanent place or for rooting in a separate bed with loose soil.
4. Plant the stalk at an angle of 45 °, with 2 buds immersed in the ground, and the rest should be above the ground.
5. When planting on a garden bed, leave 15–20 cm between the cuttings.
6. Water the cuttings and mulch with loose compost, peat or dry soil. Periodically monitor the soil so that it does not dry out.
7. By the end of autumn, the cuttings usually take root, next spring shoots appear from the buds.

Red currant stalk quickly takes root and takes root

Reproduction by layering

1. In the spring, last year's shoot is selected and bent to the ground, where a groove 5–8 cm deep has been specially dug.
2. The shoot is laid so that the crown is above the ground, and the shoot itself is in the groove.
3. The shoot is pinned to the ground with wire arcs and sprinkled with loose soil by 1 cm.
4. When sprouts appear from the buds and grow up to 10 cm, they are sprinkled with loose soil almost to the top leaves.
5. It is important to keep the soil near the layers moist.
6. Soil filling is carried out several times during the summer.
7. In mid-September, the shoot is cut off from the mother bush and carefully dug up.
8. The branch is cut into pieces according to the number of rooted shoots and planted in a permanent place.

Several shoots can grow from one layer

Treatment of red currants from pests and diseases

Plants with high immunity are rarely affected by diseases and pests, so you need to follow the rules of agricultural technology and carry out preventive spraying.

1. Plant your plants in a well-ventilated, sunny area.
2. Do not thicken plantings, leave 1–2 m between plants, and the distance to buildings should be at least 1 m.
3. Remove diseased branches or parts of the plant in a timely manner - do not allow diseases to spread.
4. Do a rejuvenating pruning of the bush for better ventilation.
5. In order to prevent in the spring, spray the currants with a mixture of drugs: Fitolavin + Farmayod + Fitoverm (dilute 1 tablespoon of each drug in 10 liters of water).
6. Every week, starting from the appearance of the first leaves, spray the currants with a bio-cocktail: dilute 2 granules of Ecoberin and Healthy Garden in 1 liter of water and add 2 drops of liquid HB-101.

Such activities make it possible to grow currants without the use of chemicals, since the proposed preparations are biological.

Photo gallery: preparations for the prevention of pests and diseases on red currants

Phytolavin helps to cope with viral diseases Farmayod is used for bacterial infections
Fitoverm - a biological product from pests
Ecoberin improves plant immunity Healthy Garden helps the plant cope with adverse conditions
HB-101 - natural growth stimulator and immunity activator

Biococktail increases plant immunity, reduces Negative consequences from stress: heat, temperature changes, wind.

Foreword

Think back to the period when, as a small child, they came to the village to visit their grandparents. Remember how you loved to walk in the garden and enjoy fruits and berries. Imagine the taste of seductive redcurrant. Why not return to this unforgettable moment? Let's figure out how to plant red currants, and how to properly care for them.

Planting red currant - choose seedlings

A sunny location on the site is ideal for planting red currants. This plant loves moisture - frequent watering necessary for the development of the root system. It is best to plant bushes on black soil rich in humus. Clay soil also suitable for growing this berry crop.

Redcurrant planted seedlings. When buying, we recommend paying attention to their roots. It is desirable that they be in a stiff state. Pay attention to the length of the roots, it should be within twenty centimeters. The above-ground part of the cut branch of the seedling is, as a rule, ten to fifteen centimeters long. It is desirable that there be a couple of such branches, each of them should have at least two buds.

If you see green or black bark, it is better to move on past the offer. Planting red currants with such branches is fraught with problems - green bark indicates immature shoots, and black spots indicate diseases that will declare themselves in the spring.

Red currant - planting and comprehensive care

Most the best time to start planting red currants - early September. We advise you to carry out all planting activities of the bush before the twentieth of this month. First you need to dig a hole with a diameter of fifty centimeters and a depth of forty-five centimeters. Remember, redcurrant is a shrub and grows well. Therefore, keep a distance between currants and other plants within two meters.

Add fertilizer to the dug hole: twenty-five grams of compost, 500 grams of superphosphate, also add potassium salt, about one hundred grams. Sprinkle fertile soil on top of two-thirds of the depth. Before planting seedlings, craftsmen recommend placing the roots in water for two to three hours so that they are well saturated with moisture.

When all these steps have been done, you can begin to place the seedling in the hole. Currants will be very grateful if placed at an angle of forty-five degrees. This improves the shape of the bush in the future and promotes the growth of the root system.

It is better to straighten the roots of the seedling when landing. Sprinkle the roots carefully so as not to damage them with too heavy lumps. After all the earth is back in the hole, tamp it down and water well. The surface of the earth should be covered with a layer of peat - this mulch perfectly protects the soil from drying out. In dry weather, we recommend watering and additional mulching a few days after planting.

Quality bush care

While the currant shrub is young (not older than three years), it needs constant fertilizer. It is during this period that the root system and strong prolific shoots are formed. Fertilizers with a good content of potassium are most suitable. However, it is better to reduce the amount of phosphate-based fertilizers, since redcurrant bushes need it less than the rest of the plants in your garden.

We advise you to make a support for currant branches. This will prevent the branches from bending to the ground with a large harvest. Some craftsmen stick pins on the sides of the bush to its height and tie it with a rope or wire. From this, the bush grows up and does not sag. The main thing when using this method is to ensure that the branches do not overlap and do not intertwine. Excessively dense shoots are an excellent environment for the development of fungal diseases. Experienced gardeners are advised to constantly monitor the health of the bushes and cut off damaged shoots and branches, leaves and pick mercilessly damaged berries in time.

In spring and autumn, do not forget about mulching the soil under the bush. Mulch will keep you warm in the winter and keep the moisture from evaporating quickly in the spring. Mulching will also simplify care - there will be significantly less weeds around the bushes. Red currants need to get rid of drought. Water it thoroughly. The best way check whether the currant needs watering or not - dig with a shovel near the bush. If the bottom of the hole is dry, be sure to water the soil at the rate of two buckets of water per bush.

If the culture has slowed down growth, then carry out root dressing before the beginning of June. To do this, take bird droppings or manure, dilute it with water in a ratio of one to ten, dig a hole around the bush and pour at least two buckets of such a solution into it. Instead of organic liquid top dressing, mineral dry fertilizers can be used.

Prepare redcurrants very carefully for winter. Care consists in tying the branches of the bush with the expectation that they do not break from the snow. In order to avoid freezing currants in winter, we recommend wrapping it with a film or agrofibre in several layers. To protect the roots for the winter, it is necessary to spud the bush with earth in the fall and sprinkle it with peat and compost.

Red currant juice quenches thirst well, berries and juice serve as an excellent tool to improve appetite. Red currant juice activates the activity of the intestines. Juice has a diaphoretic effect, and it is prescribed for colds. Juice has a cleansing effect, it helps to remove uric acid salts from the body.

In my own way chemical composition and biological action to the red currant are close to the berries of the white currant. However, these berries contain significantly less vitamins, in particular ascorbic acid.

This berry grows well and bears fruit everywhere, and for the Northwest it is one of the main berry crops. A generally unpretentious shrub with good winter hardiness and a very high yield, so you don’t need to plant a lot of bushes, especially on small area. A little is how much?

For a family of 3-4 people, one bush is enough, because with good care, an adult redcurrant bush can produce up to 10-12 kg of berries annually. It is only necessary to choose the right variety and place for planting. Gardeners prefer blackcurrant. Usually they refer to the fact that red currants have too sour berries. This is only true for older varieties such as Dutch Red. But in the last decade, many new sweet-fruited varieties have been created, the berries of which contain no less sugar than blackcurrant berries. At the same time, it should be remembered that red currants are more useful than black ones, especially for people, so, let's say, "aged".

Growing features

What do red currants like? Sunny location, slightly acidic loams with a pH of 5-5.5, increased doses of potassium. Since it has a rather deep root system (sucking roots penetrate to a depth of 40 cm), then landing pits should be made at least 60 cm deep. Before planting, the pit should be well filled with organic matter and mineral water, since the bush can grow in one place for up to 25 years. Of course, pre-planting refueling will not be enough for this long period, the bushes will have to be fed annually. The agronorm (N + P + K) of red currant is 31 g per square meter per season, and the balance (N: P: K) is 39: 13: 48. It follows that it belongs to potassium lovers (plants belong to this group , if they have at least 45 K in their balance sheet).

What does red currant not like? Grow in shade or partial shade, on too acidic and dense soils, close standing ground water therefore, if their depth is 50-60 cm, red currants are planted on small hills. The distance between the bushes, if you plant more than one bush, should be at least 1.5-2 m, since they are quite large. Red currants coexist well with gooseberries, despite the fact that they have common pests, and do not like the neighborhood of black currants. She treats all other plants in the garden quite tolerantly, first of all, because her root system occupies an intermediate position in terms of the depth of the sucking roots - between the trees, which have a lower root depth, and those plants whose root system is superficial. Therefore, in front of red currant bushes with south side you can place strawberries, vegetables and greens with a shallow root system, bulbous annual and perennial flowers.

Variety selection

vintage variety dutch red I do not advise planting, despite the fact that it is resistant to diseases and pests and gives a bountiful harvest. It has small and very sour berries. From early varieties the variety of folk selection Chulkovskaya, which is not of great value, is quite common.

Variety Early sweet is of interest because of the high sugar content in the berries and their early ripening. The berries in the brush are even in size, the bush is sprawling, rather tall, the variety is productive.

firstborn(Finnish variety Erstling aus Firlanden) has tall compact bushes, berries are large, sweet and sour, ripen early and can hang on the bush until September without losing their taste. The variety is high-yielding (up to 12 kg per bush), resistant to anthracnose, frost-resistant.

Jonker Van Tete- a variety of foreign selection. The bush is compact, vigorous, very productive. Long brushes bright red berries hidden by leaves, so they are hardly touched by birds. The variety is resistant to anthracnose.

Of the varieties of medium ripening, it’s nice to have one of the varieties on the site - Versailles white or Versailles pink- with berries of excellent taste, which, unfortunately, they lose when overripe. Both varieties are quite productive, but not too frost-resistant. The bushes are spreading, the branches are brittle.

Red Cross- a variety of foreign selection, frost-resistant, productive, but quite strongly affected by anthracnose. Its flowers are dark red, the berries are light red, of good dessert taste. Bushes of medium size, sprawling, brittle branches.

Variety Fairy fertile foreign selection has sprawling bushes of medium size. The variety is affected by anthracnose in some years. Branches are brittle. The yield is good, the berries are large, with a rather sour taste.

Generous- the variety was bred at the Pavlovsk experimental station near St. Petersburg. The crop ripens in mid-early terms. Bushes of medium size, moderately spreading. The berries are light red, medium in size, have a sweet and sour taste. The variety is high yielding. In some years, it can be severely affected by anthracnose.

Yuterbogskaya- a foreign variety, has low sprawling bushes. The berries are very light in color, sweet and sour, tasty, can hang on the bushes until frost. The variety is high-yielding (up to 13 kg per bush), frost-resistant, resistant to anthracnose.

good variety Beloved- frost-resistant, resistant to fungal diseases, fruitful. Bushes of medium size, semi-spreading. The berries are large, red in color, sweet and sour taste.

Variety Red Andreychenko has semi-spreading bushes of medium height, high yield, frost resistance and resistance to fungal diseases. Large berries of sweet and sour taste, red color.

From late varieties can only be named Dutch red, Varshevich and Rondom. Of these, the last of the three varieties is of greatest interest. Variety of foreign selection, high-yielding, frost-resistant, sufficiently resistant to anthracnose. Rondom has a low, compact bush. The berries are large, red, with a pleasant sweet and sour taste.

Landing

Like all shrubs, red currants are planted early autumn throughout September. Pits are dug 50 x 50 cm in size and, as already mentioned, 60 cm deep. Chips, chopped branches are placed at the bottom, raspberry stalks can be put. They overlay everything with the earth taken out of the pit, adding chalk or dolomite (half-liter jar), Zet, to the landing pit. spoons of azophoska and additionally add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potash fertilizer that does not contain chlorine. Instead of chalk and dolomite, you can use ash (a liter jar per pit).

When the pit is three-quarters full, the earth is tamped in it, well-rotted compost is added, compacted, watered, a mound is made in the center of the pit and the roots of the seedling are spread on it. Before planting, as always, the seedling must be placed in water for two hours so that it is well saturated with water. It is not bad to add "Kornevin" to the water, for the fastest formation of new roots. If there are dry or broken roots, then, of course, they should be removed before planting.

The bush must be planted obliquely, so that the three lower buds on each stem are buried in the soil, and only three buds are also left above the ground. Above the top of them on each stem make a straight cut. Then the plantings are covered with soil that remains after digging the hole. If this earth is too dense, then it is diluted with sand. After that, the seedling is watered so that the soil sticks well to the roots, but in no case is it trampled down. If the roots are exposed after watering, then the soil is additionally sprinkled, but no longer watered.

One tablespoon of AVA can be applied to planting holes in place of all other mineral fertilizers and not done for three years. mineral dressings. In this case, of course, the deoxidizer must be introduced (it is best to use dolomite or chalk). first two or three the year is coming the growth of the root system, and only then begins fast growth aerial part of the bush. The exception is the Jonker-Van-Tets variety, which grows quickly, like blackcurrants. In the year of planting, in autumn, the bush is no longer pruned and slightly spud to a height of 10-12 cm. In the spring, the bush must be unraveled and shortened all the branches that have grown over the past summer by one quarter of their length.

In the future, red currants do not need to be spudded, unscrambled, or shortened. Replacement shoots growing out of the ground are shortened in the spring by a third of their length. After about five years, the bush should have about ten strong main branches of different ages. Excess replacement shoots are cut to the level of the soil, leaving no stumps.

Redcurrant plants are more vigorous and, growing, occupy a fairly large area with age. Therefore, when planting, the bushes should be placed at a distance of at least 1.5 m from each other.

Red currants are traditionally placed along the boundaries of the site or along the paths. But, given the attractiveness of red currants during flowering and ripening of berries, it can be successfully planted in groups or together with ornamental shrubs and perennial flowers.

Landing is best done in early autumn, in late September - early October.

When preparing the soil, local soil cultivation is carried out in planting pits. The size of the latter is 60 x 60 cm or more, depending on the fertility of the soil. The top fertile soil layer is mixed with fertilizers (10-12 kg of humus or compost, 200 g of superphosphate and 200-300 g of wood ash). Seedlings are planted with deepening, after planting, the soil around young plants is compacted, watered and mulched. The aerial part of the seedling is shortened by 3-4 buds.

Care, fertilizer

Although redcurrant does not present high demands to soil fertility, it is very responsive to fertilization. After all, its yields are 1.5-2 times higher than those of blackcurrant.

Redcurrant feels best on loose fertile light soils with a neutral reaction of the soil solution (pH 6-6.5). But to enter organic fertilizers it is less demanding than black currant, but very sensitive to chlorine. Therefore, potash fertilizer in the form of potassium chloride should not be applied under red currants. Preference should be given to potassium sulfate or furnace ash. Soil liming must also be approached with caution - on overlimed soils, plants suffer from chlorosis.

If the planting pits were well filled with fertilizers before planting, then the plants will have sufficient nutrition for the first two to three years. Autumn incorporation of mulching materials such as manure, peat, humus, compost replenishes stocks nutrients and improves soil structure. Redcurrant is responsive to mulching. The soil is covered with mulch after spring loosening with a layer of 10-15 cm.

If the soil is regularly mulched, you can limit yourself to some mineral phosphorus- potash fertilizers. They are usually brought in for autumn digging; if the introduction of these fertilizers is postponed until spring, then due to their low mobility in the soil they will go to the roots and begin to be absorbed only in the second half of summer. On the contrary, nitrogen fertilizers are easily washed out by melt and rain waters, and they are usually applied in spring and in the first half of summer in the form of dressings.

In early spring, redcurrant bushes are fed with urea (20-25 g per bush), during flowering - with a solution of mullein (1:8-10) or bird droppings (1:15-20). During this period, foliar top dressing with microelement solutions is also effective. Spraying red currants with a solution boric acid, potassium permanganate, zinc sulphate, ammonium molybdate (1.5-2 g per bucket of water) increases the set and size of berries, which allows you to increase the yield by 20-30%.

After harvesting, plants can be fed with phosphate and potash fertilizers (40 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate or 100 g of ash per 10 liters of water). These macronutrients are necessary for laying fruit buds. Mineral fertilizers during this period can be replaced with liquid organic fertilizers (2 buckets per bush).

Red currant is a plant more durable than black currant. So that plantings do not lose productivity for a long time, starting from the fifth year, it is necessary to apply organic fertilizers, at least once every 2-3 years, 10-20 kg per bush.

On light sandy soils, organic fertilizer must be applied more often, preferably annually, and it is better to do this not in the fall, but in the spring. The fact is that in sandy soils, organic fertilizers are mineralized faster, and easily soluble mineral fertilizers are washed out even before the start of vegetation into deep layers and become inaccessible to plants. Due to the low moisture capacity of sandy soils, high doses of mineral fertilizers cannot be applied to currants, since the concentration of soil solution increases greatly in drought, which can cause stunting and even death of plants. The application of organic fertilizers increases the cohesion of sandy soils and thereby improves their water capacity and limits the leaching of soluble fertilizers.

When growing red currants on light soils, especially in drought, it is better to apply mineral fertilizers in the form of a solution. Liquid fertilizers and slurry are absorbed faster. It is best to apply liquid fertilizer in the annular grooves around the plants. If the soil is dry, then after feeding the currants are watered (2-3 buckets per bush), the grooves are covered with earth, the soil is loosened and mulched. The width of the fertilized strip should correspond to the width of the crown. The solution must saturate the entire zone of horizontal roots and penetrate to a depth of at least 40 cm. Less is applied near the center of the fertilizer. As the currant grows, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe stripes increases.

Red currant responds positively to timely watering in the dry season, especially during the formation and filling of the ovaries and after harvest.

Berries of early varieties are very attractive to birds. To protect the crop, you can use different repellents.

Trimming and shaping

The bush method is the main method for the formation of red currants in domestic horticulture, which does not require special support devices.

Anti-aging pruning of red currant: a - bush before pruning; b - after trimming

When planting, the shoots are cut short, leaving well-developed buds on the surface of 3-4. This pruning promotes the formation of strong lateral branches from the remaining buds and stimulates the formation of basal shoots from the buds on the buried part of the plant.

In the spring of next year, 3-4 well-located strong basal shoots are left. Weak and superfluous cut out at the level of the soil. In varieties with a weak shoot-forming ability, zero shoots are shortened by 1/3-1/4 of the length.

In subsequent years, the bush continues to form in the same way until 3-4 branches of each age are formed. Red currants have the most productive 3-5-year-old branches. At 6-8 years of age, they begin rejuvenating pruning of the bush. In varieties with a weak shoot-recovery ability, old branches are cut to a strong lateral branch (most often this is a top shoot). In varieties with good shoot-recovery ability, old branches are completely cut out. Annually it is necessary to remove 2-3 old branches.

Techniques for pruning red currants (according to R. P. Kudryavets): 1 - cutting whole branches into a ring - (a) wrong, (b) right; 2 - pruning branches "to transfer" (to a strong lateral branch) - (a) wrong, (b) right

In order to restore the productivity of the old bush, cut off the entire above-ground part to the level of the soil, leaving no stumps. Of the resulting shoots, the strongest are left and a bush is formed as described above.

Throughout their life, plants every year remove diseased, damaged, thickening and creeping shoots along the ground.

Other Formation Methods

Redcurrant can be grown not only in the form of a bush. Its crown is easily displayed in the form of a pyramid, spindle, vase. Forms in the form of cordons, the simplest palmettes of fan or trellis types are very decorative.

However, the most decorative red currant in standard culture. The standard crown is not only different unusual view and attractiveness, but also affects the precocity, yield and quality of berries. Usually a bush is formed on a short or high trunk.

In Europe, red currants are often grown as a bush on a short trunk (20-25 cm) with eight skeletal branches and open center. The stem is formed at the first pruning. In annual or biennial plants planted in September-October, the branches are shortened by half, cutting them to a bud facing outward. Such pruning strengthens the branches, ensures the growth of continuation shoots in the right direction and stimulates branching. Remove all growths on the trunk, as well as basal shoots as they form.

Next autumn, a year after planting, it is necessary to shorten by half those annual growths that will become the main skeletal branches (up to 8 branches). They are also cut to the kidney, facing outward. Rest side shoots cut short, leaving 5 cm in length, to stimulate the formation of fruit twigs. All dead, diseased and damaged branches are removed.

In July, when the berries begin to color and growth is formed current year, unnecessary side shoots are shortened to 10 cm to ensure light access to the berries; while the main conductors are not touched.

In the spring, it is necessary to shorten the conductors by half again on the kidney facing outward. And the side shoots, shortened to 10 cm in summer, are cut short again, leaving only 2-3 cm in length.

The result should be a compact, well-lit crown with large quantity growing branches.

To obtain a high bole (80-120 cm), the shrub is formed into one trunk and lateral shoots are allowed to develop until the moment when the bole thickens enough, after which all side shoots along the length of the bole are cut into a ring.

Formation of red currant on a short stem: a - red currant seedlings are planted in autumn, the branches are shortened by half to a bud facing outward. As they form, all growths on the trunk and root shoots are removed; b - at the end of autumn or in the spring of the next year, the growths on the branches selected as the main ones are shortened by half by a bud facing outward. All other side branches are shortened to 5 cm. All basal shoots and growths on the trunk are also removed; c - in the summer of the second year (July), all unnecessary shoots are shortened to 10 cm, the guides do not touch; d - in the spring of the next (third) year, the conductors are shortened by half (on the outer bud), and the side shoots cut off in the summer are still shortened to 2-3 cm. At the same time, all dried, diseased, damaged branches are removed. In summer, at the beginning of ripening, unnecessary side branches are cut again up to 10 cm.

Further formation of the crown at a given height consists in removing too thick branches and shortening the side shoots to 1/3 of the length (20-30 cm). Weaker shoots are not shortened. For intensively growing shoots, shorter pruning and pinching (pinching) of newly growing branches is provided.

An excellent stock for the standard form of red currant are seedlings of golden currant. Own-rooted seedlings of golden currant (grown from cuttings) are rarely used for this purpose.

For vaccination, a strong vertically located shoot is chosen, the rest are cut out. Winter or spring grafting of red currant on annual seedlings of golden currant is carried out by methods of improved copulation, in the butt or "in the side cut". Vaccinations are stratified and early in the spring, before bud break on the scion, the grafted plants are planted in open ground, and piled up with loose earth.

In the first years, about 5 of the strongest, healthiest, evenly spaced red currant branches are left; shorten by 1/3 -1/2 length, on the kidney, facing outward. Subsequently, every spring, the crown is thinned out, leaving 4-5-year-old branches; older ones are deleted. The diameter of the crown of a standard shrub reaches an average of 1.8 m.

During the growing season, it is necessary to cut out all the growths on the trunk and the renewal shoots of the golden currant. This operation, unfortunately, has to be performed annually and more than once, since the golden currant gives growth, and the renewal shoots are formed in a fairly large amount. Yoshta, a hybrid of currant and gooseberry, is free of this shortcoming as a standard former.

To give a high stem greater rigidity, it is imperative to tie it to the support peg. Not only the trunk is tied to the support, but also one of the powerful branches, preferably in the center of the crown. Even more reliable way- installation of three support posts connected at the top with planks in the form of a triangle. It is enough to tie the stem to one of these posts, then it will not break under the weight of snow and when strong wind. Scheme of planting standard plants 2.4 x 0.75 m; 1.5 x 1 m.

When growing red currants on a bole, it must be borne in mind that the life expectancy of such plants is less than that of bush forms. In addition, we must also take into account that the grafted varieties in our conditions must be sufficiently winter-hardy.

Due to the straight growth and strength of the branches and the durability of the fruit formations, the varieties Jonker-van-tets, Firstborn, Dutch Red are well suited for growing on trunks.

Red and white currants are very plastic plants, they can be formed not only on a trunk, but also in the form of a cordon and a fan. The cordon is formed on a wire trellis; for a fan shape, you need a wall or fence.

Cordon (landing pattern 2.3 x 0.5 m)

Immediately after planting a red currant plant, it is necessary to shorten the central conductor by half, tie it to a vertical support, and cut the side branches to 2-3 cm to stimulate the formation of fruit branches.

In summer, the central conductor is constantly tied to the support, but not cut off. Lateral shoots are shortened by 3-5 leaves (10 cm). Such shortening of shoots cannot be carried out earlier than at the beginning of July, since in this case the formation of shoots of the second order of branching is enhanced.

Formation of a red currant cordon (according to K. Brickel). 1 - First year: a) Spring. To form the central conductor, the growth of the upper branch is shortened to 15 cm and tied to a vertical support. The remaining branches are short (up to 2-3) cm) cut off; b) July. The central conductor is tied to the support without cutting. All side shoots are shortened to 10 cm (by 3-5 buds). 2 - Second year: a) Spring. Shorten last year's growth of the central conductor to 15 cm; all lateral growths - up to 2-3 cm; b) July. The central conductor is tied to the support without shortening. All lateral growths are cut to 10 cm. Further, the second year pruning techniques are repeated for a number of years until the central guide of the cordon reaches 1.5-1.8 m. 3 - Formation of an adult cordon: a) Spring. Cut off last year's growth of the central conductor on the first kidney, and all side branches - up to 2-3 cm; b) July. Shorten the growth of the central conductor and all side branches to 10 cm.

In the second year, in the spring, the conductor is cut to the kidney opposite to last year's pruning, leaving 15 cm of new growth; all side shoots are shortened to 2-3 cm. In the summer of the same year, a vertical conductor is again formed, constantly tying it to a vertical support, and the side shoots are shortened by 3-5 leaves (10 cm).

These operations are repeated in the specified sequence until the central conductor of the vertical cordon rises to a height of 1.5-1.8 m. A more or less straight zigzag central conductor is obtained.

On an adult vertical cordon, every year in the spring, the continuation shoot on the guide is cut to the first bud, and the lateral growths are up to 2-3 cm long. In July - another pruning: all new growths on the conductor and side branches are shortened by 3-5 leaves (up to 10 cm).

A modification of this method is a complex cordon or trellis with branches evenly spaced on the central conductor. Each branch is tied to a wire trellis and shaped like a horizontal cordon.

The currant plant is formed in much the same way as the palmette of an apple tree. To get this shape, you need to choose an annual plant with three powerful branches. It is best if one of them is located vertically (central conductor), and the other two at a height of 30 cm from the soil level - oppositely (lower tier). In subsequent years, 2 opposite branches are left on the central conductor, located above lower tier, the rest are shortened to 2-3 cm. As a result, a plant is formed up to 1.5 m high with 4 tiers of horizontal branches, each up to a meter long. When the plant is formed, each branch is cut like a regular cordon.

A wall or fence is best suited for a fan shape. The basis for the formation of such plantations is the cutting and shortening of branches growing towards the row spacing, the width of which is reduced to 1.5 m when planting. The distance between plants from 1.5 to 0.75 m is chosen depending on the number of branches in the fan (2.3 ,4). The required number of branches is tied to the support with a fan. The rest are cut off as with the bush method of formation.

Biggest Harvest obtained per unit area when using the "fan with three branches" system. Low productivity - the system "bush on a trunk without tying to a support." The traditional bush form is characterized by average yields and quality of berries.

When growing plants formed on a trellis, harvesting is facilitated, the berries are large, leveled, beautifully colored and of high quality, but fruit burn is possible.

Fan systems are very decorative, they can be used for hedges.

Feeding and care

In red currant, after the bush is formed, the tops of the branches are never cut off. After all, it is at the ends of the branches that she, unlike the black one, has not one, but a whole bunch of fruit twigs-fruits, which give the main harvest of berries. Fruits of red currants live much longer than those of black currants - up to 8-10 years. After that, they die off and do not give a harvest. Such an obsolete branch must be cut at the root, and next year a replacement shoot will come out of the ground.

If the main fruit-bearing branches annual growth small, only 5-7 cm, and the fruits grow well, then such branches can be left. But if the growth is small and the fruits do not grow, then such a branch should be completely removed in order to cause a replacement shoot.

Redcurrant blooms in parts and quickly, so it usually manages to tie and even grow the ovaries to such an age that they already tolerate frosts down to -7 degrees, so they are not afraid of late spring frosts. (The least winter-hardy of all plants are flowers and young ovaries.) Therefore, redcurrant gives high, stable, annual yields. Unlike black currants, red berries can hang on the bushes for a long time without crumbling and without losing their taste. The exception is white currant varieties, in which overripe berries lose their taste. Redcurrant is a long-liver. It grows and bears fruit for 20-25 years in one place. Moreover, the old bush can still be rejuvenated, gradually cutting out a third of its branches to the very soil in three steps.

Every year after fruiting, a complex mineral fertilizer should be applied under each bush (at least 3 tablespoons). If AVA is used, then it is paid once every three years at 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granules under the bush. All fertilizers should be applied dry, along the perimeter of the crown of the bush, and embedded in the topsoil. Every year, the soil must be deoxidized, for which use dolomite milk (1 cup of dolomite per 10 liters of water), which should be watered around the bush around the perimeter of the crown at the end of summer. If instead of mineral fertilizers you use ash (half a liter jar for a plant), then dolomite can be omitted. In addition, currants require organic matter. At the end of autumn, a bucket of rotted manure or compost should be added under each bush.

This currant does not need additional watering, with the exception of short period in June, if the weather is dry, and in October, again, if in autumn long time there was no good rain. Watering should be plentiful - at least 3-5 buckets under a bush. First, you need to slightly moisten the soil around the perimeter of the crown, then add the rest of the water, then the moisture will be absorbed into the soil, and not roll off of it no one knows where. Watering and spraying bushes should be done in the evening in dry weather.

On a note

In order to grow red currants not in the form of a bush, but in the form of a tree - a standard form, the seedling is planted in the fall, as usual, but not obliquely, but vertically. Then there will be no root shoots, and those that may appear in the future must be cut out according to the level of the soil. The following spring, the stem is shortened by just one bud. To form a bole, the lower 4-5 buds are plucked out. If in the future branches appear on the stem, then they should be removed. Then, when branches develop from the two upper buds, in the spring they pluck or cut off the upper bud. After about 5 years, you will have a low elegant tree. It will bear fruit for 8-10 years, then the fruits will die off and fruiting will stop. You will have to cut the only stem at the level of the soil in order to cause a replacement shoot, and repeat everything from the beginning. Of course, currants in standard form give a very small yield, since this is only one branch, and in an ordinary bush there can be up to ten or more. The currant in a standard form is just an elegant toy.

Pests and diseases

Red currants are resistant to powdery mildew and viral diseases. Sometimes it is affected by columnar or goblet rust and, at the end of summer, by angraknose, which causes redness, then blackening, twisting and falling off of its leaves. Against these diseases, you can use a 1% Bordeaux mixture, it is better to use the Fitosporin or Zircon biological product.

Of the pests, the most malicious are the red-gall aphid, which causes red swellings on the leaves in early spring, and the gooseberry moth caterpillar, which eats leaves mainly in July. Against these pests, it is best to use the Fitoverm or Iskra-bio biological product. Against red gall aphids, you can spray with drinking or soda ash (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), but it is necessary to moisten the underside of the leaves along which the aphids crawl. Aphids are known to have very delicate integuments. Crawling through the soda, it burns the abdomen and dies. No wetting agents, such as Intavir, have an effect on aphids, since the aphid penetrates the inside of the leaf plate and feeds there. Therefore, an absorbable preparation against sucking pests is needed. The safest today is Fitoverm (Iskra-bio or Agravertin).

Gooseberry moth caterpillars are easiest to pick up with your hands and destroy. But there is an old folk way, which I already talked about when I wrote about blackcurrant. At the end of May - beginning of June, a shovel of fresh manure should be thrown into the center of the bush. It has long been noticed that pests, even aphids, do not touch such a bush.

A small branched shrub with grayish bark. Leaves are heart-shaped, serrated, hairy below. The flowers are greenish-white, collected in a drooping brush. The berries are spherical, red, sweet and sour. Flowering in May, fruiting in July. Spring honey plant.

Widely distributed in the wild from the Urals to Baikal, Siberia and Far East. Grows in wet forests, along rivers and swamps. Cultivated as a horticultural fruit shrub.

Medicinal properties of red currant

Medicinal raw materials are fruits. The fruits contain a small amount of ascorbic acid, carotene, flavonoids, thiamine, riboflavin, nicotinic, malic, succinic and citric acid, sugars, pectins.

AT folk medicine fruits and juice are used to reduce the temperature in febrile diseases, the regulation of intestinal motility and as a mild laxative. Redcurrant juice increases the excretion of sweat and urine and improves appetite. It also has a mild laxative, slightly choleretic, anti-inflammatory and hemostatic effect.

Application

Infusion: 3 tbsp. spoons of berries pour a glass of boiling water, leave for 4 hours, filter and take a quarter cup 30 minutes before meals 3-4 times a day. The berries are suitable for the preparation of a vitamin extract.

Jelly from a mixture of red currant and raspberry

4 liters of red currant juice, 1 liter of raspberry juice, 7.5 kg of sugar.

Squeeze out the juices. Add sugar with constant stirring until the juice thickens and turns into jelly (usually you have to take 1.5 kg of sugar per 1 liter of juice). Arrange in sterile jars. Close. Store in a cool place.

Note. Jelly from a mixture of red currants and raspberries acquires the taste and aroma of raspberries, and this, you see, is much tastier. Redcurrant is a natural preservative, like blueberries and bell pepper or hell. Using redcurrant jelly, you can turn any herring to your taste into an exquisite herring in wine.

Dressing for herring

Peel the herring, remove the bones, remove the skin, cut into pieces. Prepare dressing from water, vegetable oil and redcurrant jelly in the ratio 1:1:1. Pour dressing over pieces of herring for at least 3-4 hours.

Any, the cheapest, herring will acquire the taste of exquisite herring in wine sauce.

Red or white currant lemonade

1 cup currant berries, 3-4 tbsp. spoons of granulated sugar, zest of 1/2 lemon, juice of 1/2 lemon are mixed and ground with a wooden pestle, add 1 boiled cold water, let stand for 7-10 minutes, filter and drink.

Red currant is also called "Ivan's berry"- it ripens, for the most part, exactly by Ivanov's day (June 24). And they also call her a "river" - it grows wild along the banks of nameless forest streams. Red currants have been cultivated since the 15th-16th centuries, so healing properties This berry has been known for a long time.

AT harvest year red shiny clusters of berries, like a rich fringe, hang from each branch, beckon both people and birds from afar. Moreover, ripe berries hang on the branches for a long time, do not crumble, as if they are waiting for the hostess to reach them. And the housewives are happy to make jam from it, make juices, compotes, jelly.

The fruits of this plant store a rich set of useful substances: sugars, organic acids - citric, malic, salicylic, succinic. They contain a lot of vitamins: B1, P, E, K, B12, PP, carotene. According to the content of vitamin C, red currant is significantly inferior to black, but it contains a lot of coumarins, which reduce blood clotting and help prevent heart attacks. It is richer than blackcurrant in the content of pectins, mineral elements such as potassium, calcium, sodium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron.

Succinic and malic acids, with which red currant berries are saturated, are very strong energy-giving compounds. Therefore, berries are very effective in the treatment of old age, with overwork. They are necessary for athletes to maintain tone and quick recovery under heavy loads. Red currant berries regulate metabolism well, promote the removal of cholesterol from the body, so it is useful to use them for atherosclerosis.

Red currant- an excellent adsorbent of intestinal toxins, improves appetite, enhances the activity of the stomach and intestines. It is used to relieve nausea different kind ailments.

Red currant juice is drunk with spastic colitis and enterocolitis. It quenches thirst, reduces fever, especially in children, has anti-inflammatory and diaphoretic effects.

Red currant leaf tea promotes the removal of purines and uric acid therefore it is very useful for patients with gout, rheumatism and urolithiasis.

♦ For colds: take equal amounts of fresh juice of red currant, cranberry and black currant. Take a quarter cup with the addition of a teaspoon of honey 4 times a day.

♦ To stimulate appetite: take red currant berries, 3 parts of wormwood herb and 1 part of yarrow herb. Pour a tablespoon of the herbal mixture with a glass of boiling water, leave for 30 minutes, strain. Add juice squeezed from 2 tablespoons of red currant berries to the infusion. Take half a cup 15-20 minutes before meals.

♦ For urolithiasis: take 2 parts of redcurrant leaves, common anise fruits, shepherd's purse herbs, 3 parts of common juniper fruits, common bearberry leaves, field harrow root, medicinal dandelion root, 4 parts of garden parsley herb. Pour a tablespoon of the mixture with a glass of water, boil for 10 minutes, leave for 30 minutes. Take in equal portions in a warm form 2-3 times a day.

♦ For urolithiasis: take 2 parts of red currant leaves, peppermint leaves, black elder flowers, 3 parts of calamus rhizome, horsetail herb, common juniper fruit, 4 parts of stinging nettle leaves. Pour a tablespoon of the mixture with a glass of water, boil for 10 minutes, leave for 30 minutes. Take in a warm form for half to a quarter cup 2 times a day.

Red currant- useful and high-yielding horticultural culture. With good care, the shrub bears fruit for 20 years.

It also shows resistance to drought, able to withstand low temperature up to -40 С and relatively unpretentious to the type of soil.

There are both early-ripening and late-ripening varieties of red currant. So with the right combination on the garden plot you can harvest from May until late autumn.

Berries can be used for medicinal purposes. They contain useful material, which will be useful in vascular diseases, rheumatism, gout, low acidity of the stomach and dysentery.

This article talks about how to choose a redcurrant variety, as well as about the characteristics of its cultivation in the allotment.

Variety selection

At the moment in agriculture actively cultivated more than 70 varieties red currant. Each of them has a certain set of characteristics.

Gardeners use varieties with their optimal combination, based on the characteristics of the region and crop requirements. In order to choose the most suitable variety, it makes sense to get acquainted with their features:

Zoned varieties

Due to different combinations of characteristics, different varieties can be more adapted to growth in a given area.

Recommendations for the region of their landing, formed as a result of research by breeders, are called zoning. The main regions of currant cultivation and varieties are listed below. suitable for cultivation in these regions:

• In conditions Moscow region excellent choice will become: Natalie, Dutch Red, Dutch Pink, Ziralt, Versailles White, Red Viksne, Sugar, Detvan, Beloved, Osipovskaya;
• Varieties suitable for planting in middle lane : Erstling aus Vierlanden, Natalie, Dutch pink, Ziralt, Generous, Versailles white, Viksne red, Jonker van Tets, Detvan, Andreychenko red, Dutch red, Vika, Niva;
• Varieties suitable for growing conditions in Siberia: Natalie, Yuterbogskaya, Dutch pink, Ziralt, Sugar, Detvan, Red Andreichenko, Ural beauty, Ural souvenir, Dutch red, Ob sunset, Vika;
• Good varieties to grow in Ukraine: Natalie, Yuterbogskaya, Generous, Versailles white, Detvan, Vika, Niva.

Selection of red currant seedlings

At choice of seedlings red currant need to pay attention to root system: the more developed it is, the better.

The bark on the branches may peel off slightly, this is not critical. The main thing is that the branches look healthy and dry. The height of the aerial part should be from 40 cm.

On the market are offered as young seedlings (2-3 years), and adult plants (5-6 years old). The first are relatively inexpensive, their price often does not exceed 500 rubles. A perennial bush can do in 3-6 thousand rubles.

Landing

Planting red currants is better autumn. It prefers dry and lighted hills, does not take root well on heavy soils.

It would be best to plant 3-4 bushes red and half as many per garden. Seedlings are planted at a distance of about 1.5 meters apart and around 3 meters between rows. If possible, as far away from fruit trees as possible.

Landing pits are made large, each side is long up to 60 cm. The excavated layer of soil must be sorted out, removing weeds from it, and it is also desirable to mix it with a couple of buckets of 2-3-year-old humus, 200 g superphosphate and 0.5 l jar of wood ash.

With a part of this mixture, the hole is filled up by about ¾ and trampled down. Further, when planting, the root neck (the zone of transition from the root to the stem) should be deepened by 6-8 cm.

The roots are placed throughout the pit so that they do not bend upwards and fall asleep with the ground prepared according to the recipe above. After this, the bush must pour abundantly and, if possible, mulch (create a top layer) with peat or manure.

Usually the bush begins to bear fruit in the third year after planting.

Care

So that the bush does not stretch in length, it is necessary form. The formation of a bush usually begins immediately upon planting.

If it is required that it does not thicken too much, cutting off the tops of the seedling. A few buds are left below, from which growth will occur.

For the formation spreading bush its branches are shortened by a third of the length, and pressed to the ground, positioned in opposite directions.

The main crop of red currants is given 2-5 year old branches. Therefore, all weak shoots should be cut annually. As a result, on an 8-year-old bush there should be about 20 branches different ages.

After that, from time to time thin out. To do this, all branches older than 6-8 years old, starting from the base, or younger, but infected or not fruiting.

Redcurrant is demanding on fertilizers, with their timely application, it increases the yield of berries by 1.5-2 times. In early spring, each bush should be fed 15-20 gr urea. During flowering, an aqueous solution of bird ( 1 liter of manure to 15-20 liters of water) or cow ( 1 liter to 8-10 liters of water) litter.
After harvesting, an ash solution is introduced into the soil ( 100 gr per 10 l).

Every autumn, it is advisable to repeat the procedure for strengthening the soil, which was carried out during planting. In the ground under each bush should be made 1 bucket of peat or humus and half a can of ash.

If summer and autumn turned out to be dry, it is advisable to water the bushes. Under one bush it will be enough to pour 3-5 buckets of water on a dry day in the evening, once in July, once in October.

At right choice planting sites and soil care, red currants do not need to be transplanted throughout the entire fruiting period. However, if transplant really needed, the procedure will depend on the degree of damage to the bush.

If it is intact, then you can transplant it along with a piece root land. Or - propagate the bush by layering (using branches). New plot in this case, it should be prepared according to the principle indicated in the “landing” paragraph.

Disease and pest control

Red currants are attacked by the following diseases and pests: