Hydrangea rough sargent. Hydrangea: types and preferred varieties for the Russian garden. Central region and Moscow region

Hydrangea is a genus of flowering plants in the Hortensia family. The family mainly includes small trees and shrubs. There are about 80 plant species. It grows in Asia, America, and most species are found in Japan and China. Some varieties have taken root well in Russian gardens. The plant got its name in honor of Princess Hortense, sister of the Prince of the Roman Empire, Karl Heinrich of Nassau-Siegen. The Japanese name for hydrangea is Ajisai, which translates as "a flower that looks like a purple sun." Used mainly for decorative purposes.

Several dozen species of hydrangeas are known, most of them are low shrubs with large foliage, small trees or lianas. Due to its beauty, the plant can be increasingly found in Russian gardens. Gardeners identify several of the most common species in our latitudes.

Hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea paniculata

It's incredible beautiful view, is a small tree whose height does not exceed 10 m. It grows in China and Japan, in Russia it can be found on Sakhalin. In nature, paniculate hydrangea is found on the edges of forests and thickets of oak forests. The leaves of the plant are elliptical in shape, slightly pubescent above, more pubescent below. Their length reaches 12 cm. The flowers are collected in large panicles. They have a wonderful aroma, making them excellent honey plants.

Attention! The culture grows very quickly, so it needs periodic pruning.

It is preferable to plant a plant in shady place, because under direct sunlight, the inflorescences become small. You should also protect panicle hydrangea from the wind. Flowering is plentiful and long, comes in June and lasts until October. This species is resistant to frost, it can withstand up to -25 degrees. Therefore, it is perfect for growing in the central and northern parts of Russia. In the northern zones, it is recommended to plant hydrangeas in the spring. And in those regions where there is no severe frosts, you can land in the autumn. It reproduces well by cuttings. Hydrangea paniculata has an incredible number of varieties.

  1. Grandiflora- a popular variety with large sterile flowers gathering in wide pyramids. The flowering period is a little later than other representatives of the species. The flowers are cream-colored during the blooming period, later becoming snow-white, and greenish-red in autumn. This is due to the peculiarity of the variety.

    Grade Grandiflora

  2. Brussels Lace- an elegant variety. It has a considerable number of flowers that bear fruit. A bit similar to Floribunda.

    Grade Brussels Lace

  3. Kyushu- frost-resistant variety. But despite this, the young shoots of the plant can freeze. The flowers have a pleasant smell, have a white color. Some of them are sterile, others are fruit-bearing. Flowering occurs in mid-summer and lasts for 3 months.

  4. Limelight- a variety with large inflorescences. Shrub with erect stems. Its height is only 2 m. The leaves are green, velvety. Flowers are collected in panicles, the length of which can reach half a meter. Initially they are green in color, but during the flowering period they become cream or white. Flowering begins at the end of July. Duration just over one month.

    Grade Limelight

  5. Mathilda - interesting variety, changing the color of flowers during the entire flowering period. At first they are creamy, then turn white, turn pink and at the end of flowering become red-green.

    Variety Mathilda

  6. Pinky Winky- perennial shrub with white flowers that gather in cones. Over time, they turn into a pinkish tint. Flowering from August to October.

    Variety Pinky Winky

  7. pink diamond- a variety common in Europe and Russia. The flowers of the plant are divided into sterile and fruiting, initially their color is creamy white, later they turn pink and red.

    Grade Pink Diamond

  8. Floribunda- a variety characterized by abundant flowering. It has round flowers on long pedicels.

    Grade Floribunda

  9. Unique- low shrub. Grows fast. Flowering occurs in August and lasts until cold weather. Initially, the flowers of this variety are white in color, but then become rich pink. Frost-resistant look. Looks good in single and group plantings.

  10. Dart's Little Dot- a bush about half a meter high. Ideal for small areas. Flowers of a pinkish color are collected in panicles.

    Variety Dart's Little Dot

Hydrangea large-leaved (or garden)

Garden hydrangea is an ornamental shrub, perennial. On average, it reaches two meters in height. It has erect stems, does not bear fruit. The flowers are pinkish, lilac, blue or white. Their color depends on the state in which the plant is located and the acidity of the soil. The leaves are simple, green. Is an fast growing species demanding on soil composition. Dislikes limestone. Flowering continues from August to November.

Heat and photophilous plant. It has an average frost resistance (up to -30 degrees). Therefore, it grows well in the south of Russia. Thanks to agrotechnical efforts, large-leaved hydrangea has reached suburban areas near Moscow. Basically, these are frost-resistant varieties of this species.

Among the most popular varieties are the following:


Hydrangea

Also known as smooth and wild hydrangea. Undemanding plant. It is considered winter-hardy, thanks to which it has taken a special place on summer cottages in the middle latitudes of our country. Doesn't need cover. Bush of medium height (up to 2.5 m). Stems erect, bare. The leaves are smooth, rounded. Flowers are of different colors.

Prefers shady or semi-shady areas. The plant does not tolerate drought and loves abundant watering. Unpretentious to the ground. Flowering lasts from June to September. Tree hydrangea pruning is carried out annually in the winter. The fastest and convenient way propagation of this species is cuttings.

The main varieties of hydrangea tree:

  1. Annabelle- the most popular variety of hydrangea tree. It has high frost resistance. The height of the shrub is not more than a meter. The flowers are collected in spherical inflorescences. Perennial. The variety is photophilous, but can grow in the shade. Afraid of drafts. If you water the bush with dye, then its flowers will be painted in the appropriate shade. Blooms from July to September.

    Variety Annabelle

  2. Sterilis- plentiful and long flowering variety. Flowering lasts from July to October. The flowers of the plant at first have a greenish-white hue, later - snow-white. Hydrangea branches bend under their weight.

    Variety Sterilis

  3. Hayes Starburst- a bush with snow-white terry flowers. The height and width are about 1.5 m. It belongs to the 4th frost resistance zone, that is, it can grow at temperatures not lower than 34 degrees. Infrequently exposed to diseases and pest attacks.

    Variety Hayes Starburst

  4. Invincibelle Spirit– innovation in the field of selection. The flowers are dark pink when they bloom, which later changes to bright pink.

    Grade Invincibelle Spirit

  5. Incrediball- large-flowered variety. It has inflorescences in the form of huge balls of white color.

    Grade Incrediball

  6. white dome- a dense shrub, whose height is 80 cm. The leaves are large, green. The flowers are cream, marginal - barren. Perfect for group and single plantings.

    Variety White Dome

Hydrangea petiolate (climbing)

A rare variety that is only gaining popularity in Russian gardens. It is a liana, the length of which can reach 25 m. In Russia, it is found in the Kuriles and Sakhalin. It grows vertically, curls along a support (if available). Leaves are smooth and green. Flowers of a snow-white and pink shade are collected in corymbs. Is an excellent honey plant. Grows in partial shade. Suitable for the southern regions of our country, and also grown in middle lane.

petiolate hydrangea

Attention! Petiole hydrangea is demanding on the composition of soils - it prefers moist loams.

hydrangea oak-leaved

It is a perennial two-meter shrub. It has red shoots. It got its name due to its similarity with oak leaves. White flowers are collected in panicles. Flowering begins in June, and ripening in September.

hydrangea oak-leaved

Prefers rich soils without lime. Watering should be moderate. In central Russia, the bush may freeze, but with age the plant becomes more resistant to frost. Suitable for southern areas. Propagated by cuttings, layering and division of the bush. Pruning is done twice a year - in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea radiata

Shrub up to 2.5 m. Leaves oval-lanceolate, pointed at the top. The plant has many white sterile flowers collected in shields. Flowering begins in July and lasts only one month. Ripening occurs in September. Winter hardiness is low, so the roots should be covered with dry foliage or spruce branches. Grows very fast. Reproduces differently, but the best option is cuttings. Suitable for landscape design in the south of Russia.

Hydrangea radiata

Hydrangea ash (grey)

Shrub with straight stems. Its height is on average 2 m. The leaves are wide ovate. Moisture-loving plant. Before winter, faded inflorescences are cut off. Relatively winter hardy. Suitable as a hedge. thermophilic species. A great option for the southern regions of Russia. Inflorescences can be used as dried flowers.

Hydrangea ash (grey)

serrate hydrangea

Tree shrub. Its height can reach 1.5 m in height. Has a spreading crown. The leaves are oval, pointed to the top, bright green color. Annual. Inflorescences resemble the shape of a ball. Flowers inside the inflorescence blue tint, closer to the edge - pale blue. After flowering they become pink. The color of the flowers depends on the acidity of the soil.

serrate hydrangea

The plant blooms from July to September. Hydrangea tolerates transplants well. Likes moderate watering. Preparation for winter is as follows: wilted inflorescences are cut and covered with a film. In care unpretentious. Not susceptible to diseases and pest attacks. Looks great even as a herbarium. Suitable for landing in the middle lane of our country.

Hydrangea Sargent

The height of the shrub is 2-3 m. It grows rapidly in breadth. Blooms from August to September. Leaves large, opposite. Their length reaches 26 cm. Umbelliferous inflorescences. The flowers are lilac, purple, after flowering - blue and white. Prefers moderate watering. Frost-resistant, but hibernates with shelter, therefore it is grown mainly in southern regions Russia.

Hydrangea Sargent

Hydrangea is a wonderful plant. Mostly floriferous. Demanding on soils, prefers moderate watering. It has become widespread throughout the world. Some varieties that are resistant to frost are grown in Russian gardens. Used in gardening.

All about hydrangea: video

Hydrangea varieties: photo

The beauty of the flowering hydrangea shrub can indeed be compared with the magnificent outfits of princesses. Just keep your eyes on the air spherical inflorescences in the most delicate pink, lilac and blue tones, which are scattered among the lush green foliage. In the article, we will consider how to plant and care for hydrangea.

European botanists named the culture Hydrangea (that is, a vessel filled with water), this name was given, firstly, for its moisture-loving nature, and secondly, because the seed pods resemble jugs in shape.

The Japanese, who especially revere hydrangea, call it "purple sunny flower"- adzisai. Wild hydrangea leaves in Japan are used to make the sacred Amacha tea, which is brewed and drunk on April 8 - the day when, according to legend, the Buddha was born.

Curious information about hydrangea

  • Two types of flowers coexist in hydrangea inflorescences.
    1. The first type is small flowers, usually densely located in the core of the inflorescences, seed pods are formed in their place.
    2. In the form of a terry ruffle along the edges of the inflorescence there are more large flowers, which are actually overgrown petal-shaped sepals. They are sterile and do not set seeds. Nature created them to decorate and attract pollinating insects. In some varieties, sterile flowers are scattered over the entire surface of the inflorescence.
  • The acidity of the soil affects the color of the flowers. If the soil has a weak alkaline reaction, the flowers turn pink, and with an acidic soil reaction, the inflorescences turn blue and blue. However, plants that bloom white are almost unchanged.

  • From alkaline soil, the roots of the plant cannot absorb iron, which affects the color, therefore, on such soils, in order to obtain inflorescences in blue tones, the bushes are watered with solutions of iron salts. The blue color will turn out juicier if rusty nails are dug in the trunk circle. It happens that on the same bush, blue flowers appear on one side, and pink flowers on the other. This circumstance can be used to create unique landscape designs.
  • To change the color, metal salts are also used - alum, which are sold in the same place as fertilizers. High-moor peat is also used to oxidize the soil, with which tree trunks are mulched or plants are watered with infusion.

Varieties of garden hydrangea grown in Russia

Unfortunately, in cold Russia, this heat-loving plant, amazing in its beauty, can be grown in open ground mainly by gardeners of the middle zone, and even then there are few species: Sargent's hydrangea (Hydrangeasargentiana); treelike (Hydrangeaarborescens); large-leaved (Hydrangeamacrophylla); panicled (Hydrangeapaniculata); petiolate (Hydrangeapetiolaris); groundcover (Hydrangeaheteromalla).

Hydrangea Sargent

  • The shrub attracts with its unusualness - it has dark red thick shoots, as if covered with felt, and beautiful velvety dark green leaves.
  • It grows to a height of about one meter.
  • Blooms from mid-July. Violet-lilac inflorescences have a shield-like shape - among densely arranged small flowers, large light sterile flowers are scattered like stars. Using this species, create spectacular hedges.
  • The plant is thermophilic, loves well-lit areas.
  • Of all the species, it is the most drought-resistant, but it still likes moist soil more.
  • Due to the tendency of Sargent's hydrangea to freeze in the fall, the stems are pruned under the root and shelter. The next year the bushes are restored.
  • Propagated mainly by root shoots or by dividing the bush, as the seeds do not have time to ripen well.

Hydrangea

  • This species comes from North America, so it tolerates winters that are not too harsh. And even if it freezes a little, then when correct pruning and top dressing finds strength for a quick recovery.
  • Grows fast. During the season, an upright bush with a rounded crown can reach a height of 2 meters.
  • Its leaves are large, spherical inflorescences of white or cream color. Blooms in July. The varieties of this species Sterilis and Grandiflora are distinguished by the special beauty of massive caps of snow-white barren inflorescences.

large-leaved hydrangea

  • The labors of breeders around the world have created many great varieties large-leaved hydrangea, without which almost no European garden can do. Russian gardeners are forced to choose only varieties that can withstand cold winters. This is a deterrent to the spread of shrubs in regions with a harsh climate. However, in the middle lane it has been grown since ancient times, luxurious bushes served as decorations for landowners and noblemen's estates.
  • The inflorescences of the large hydrangea are unusually beautiful. Countless large sterile flowers make them look like balls. It is delightful in single plantings or in the center of flower beds.
  • New repair winter-hardy varieties can bloom both on the shoots of the last year, and on newly grown ones. Therefore, they are guaranteed to bloom every year, even if last year's shoots freeze slightly.
  • They winter well, and popular varieties bloom beautifully every year: EarlySensation, RedSensation (Red Sensation) with bright scarlet inflorescences and burgundy branches, Peppermint with pale pink inflorescences and white sterile flowers, double-blooming pink or blue variety Expression.

Hydrangea paniculata

  • In the native forests of China and Japan, shrubs of this species can grow up to 10 meters in height. In the Far Eastern regions of Russia, you can also see these plants. The temperate climate of the middle zone allows the bushes to reach a height of two meters.
  • The rounded crown consists of large oblong foliage, velvety to the touch.
  • Elongated inflorescences have a pyramidal shape. In racemes-panicles there are both sterile white flowers and fruit-forming flowers of a delicate greenish hue.
  • On the pleasant aroma bees and bumblebees flock. Closer to autumn, the extreme white flowers change color to pink with a greenish tint. Ripening of seed boxes begins by the end of September. This species can grow in polluted city air, and prefers slightly shaded areas.
  • The variety Floribunda (Floribunda), which has large pyramidal white-cream inflorescences, has gained great popularity. Such a bush strewn with flowers will look beautiful anywhere in the garden, for example, in the center of a flower garden, at the entrance to a house or a gazebo.
  • Hydrangea Grandflora (Grandiflora) is widespread and loved by gardeners, originally blooming with light cream panicles, which are then painted in White color, and by the end of the season - in red with greenish hues.

petiolate hydrangea

  • Fans of vertical gardening successfully use petiolate hydrangea (H.petiolaris), which is a woody deciduous liana. Under natural conditions, it grows in China, Korea, Japan, Sakhalin, the Kuril Islands. This species is widely distributed as an ornamental plant throughout the world.
  • On the red-brown shoots of the creeper there are aerial roots with which it clings to the supports and creeps up or clings to the soil. Its dark green foliage is smooth and glossy with an elongated oval shape. In autumn, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
  • This honey plant is characterized by early flowering - from June to July. It blooms profusely with fragrant white or pale pink loose inflorescences.
  • The plant has good winter hardiness, but in severe frosts the stems freeze slightly, and therefore require the construction of shelters.
  • Young, slow-growing seedlings need about two to three years to gain strength. Only then do they turn into a powerful plant that can cover a vast area with a green flowering carpet.
  • Stem hydrangea decorate walls, arbors, pergolas, withered trees, fences. These creepers also feel great on the ground as a groundcover. They can decorate, for example, the shore of an artificial reservoir. Along the way, with their sucker roots, they will strengthen the soil.
  • Not so long ago, the Miranda variety (H.petiolarisMiranda) has already gained popularity, as it has more decorative leaves and is growing rapidly.

ground cover hydrangea

  • This species includes the Bretschneider hydrangea (N. Vretschneideri), which is a deciduous shrub with dark red hairy branches and a wide rounded crown. The foliage is wedge-shaped with denticles along the edges of a dark green color. The leaves are smooth above and hairy below.
  • Sterile flowers of umbellate inflorescences are white at first, and by the end of the season - magenta. Flowering is profuse and very decorative. It begins to bloom only in the fifth year.
  • This shrub is the most winter-hardy and drought-resistant of all types of hydrangeas, and also tolerates shading well.
  • Perfect for decorating green hedges, looks spectacular in group and single plantings.

Growing hydrangeas

Planting hydrangeas

  • To plant this warm and light-loving shrub, you need to choose a place on the site that would be closed from the winds and well lit. Light partial shade is also suitable, and for some varieties it is even preferable.
  • The soil is chosen fertile with an acidic reaction of at least pH 4.5, therefore, in its composition it should contain leafy soddy soil, high-moor peat, humus, and sand.
  • Landing pits measuring 50 x 50 x 50 are prepared in advance so that the soil mixture in them settles well and all the components “make friends” with each other.
  • Landings do in early spring. The plant is planted so that the root neck is not deepened, but is above the soil level. After watering a newly planted plant, the root zone is sprinkled with peat or crushed coniferous bark.

Hydrangea Care

  • Hydrangea is very moisture-loving and requires regular watering. With a lack of moisture, it suffers greatly, loses color or does not bloom at all. In no case should the soil be allowed to dry out.
  • At the first spring feeding, potassium sulfate or ammonium sulfate is used. Then they are fed at the beginning and at the end of flowering with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The shrub responds well to monthly watering with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate, which helps to strengthen the tissues.
  • In spring and autumn, peat mulching of the soil in the near-stem circles is necessarily carried out in order to preserve moisture and acidify the soil. The thickness of the mulch layer should be at least 7 cm.

Formation of hydrangea bushes

  • The formation of bushes begins in the third or fourth year after planting.
  • Paniculata and tree hydrangea bloom on current shoots, so in the spring they are cut off, leaving 8-10 buds, weak and old branches are cut out.
  • From panicled varieties many form standard trees, for what biennial plant cut off all shoots except for one of the strongest. The following year, this shoot is cut by a third. Then, when a year later, young shoots grow out of it, two or three are left of them and shortened, and the rest are removed. And so on, for several years. The result is a branched, beautifully flowering tree.
  • On petiolate and ground cover species, light spring pruning is done, cutting off the ends of long stems at the buds. As a result, the shrub will begin to branch out more and bloom more abundantly.
  • Large-leaved hydrangea lays the buds of inflorescences on last year's branches. That's why spring pruning consists in removing old inflorescences, weak and damaged shoots.

Harmful insects and diseases

  • The plant may be affected spider mite. At the same time, the leaves turn yellow and dry out, as the insect settles on the back of the leaf and sucks all the juices out of it. They fight this scourge by spraying the hydrangea with special chemicals especially on the underside of the foliage.
  • If gradually yellowing and darkening oily spots appear on the leaves, this may be a sign downy mildew. In such cases, an aqueous solution is used blue vitriol(a teaspoon per bucket of water) with the addition of 150 grams of green soap. It is important not to start the disease, but to start treatment at the initial stages of its appearance.
  • Plants can become diseased in alkaline soils chlorosis, this can also happen with an excess of humus in the soil. The leaves begin to lighten and thin, and their veins darken. In this case, the soil is shed with potassium nitrate (2 tablespoons per bucket of water), and after three to four days - iron sulfate in the same proportion.

Shelter for the winter

  • Basically, all types of hydrangeas are thermophilic and need winter shelters. The construction of shelters does not require much work, but it greatly increases the chances of plants that they will survive the cold.

  • The simplest thing is to mulch the tree trunks with a thick layer of peat, sawdust, straw, foliage or spruce branches at the onset of the first frost. In this way, tree-like and paniculate species are insulated.
  • Rigid branches can be wrapped with covering material or heat-resistant paper.
  • Flexible stems of large-leaved or petiole hydrangea neatly laid on boards or flat boxes, and then pinned to the ground through the cracks. Top cover with spruce branches or use any non-woven material. A frost-resistant polyethylene film is laid on the material and fixed with stones or other heavy objects.
  • Around mid-April, as soon as the strong night frosts stop, the shelters are removed.

home garden

Home hydrangea can decorate the apartment with its magnificent flowering from May to the end of September.

  • Although the plant is photophilous, you should not expose it to the burning action of direct sun rays. Otherwise, the leaves will begin to burn out. The optimum temperature is considered to be up to 20 ° C.
  • In the fall, when the flower enters a dormant period, you will need to find a dark and cooler place for the pot with a temperature not higher than 8-10 ° C.
  • In winter, keep the soil slightly moist by watering about once every 10 days. When leaves begin to appear in February, the pot is placed in a bright place and the frequency of watering is increased. At the beginning of budding, top dressing is carried out with a special complex fertilizer for hydrangeas.
  • Since the plant loves water, it is often watered and sprayed in summer. With a lack of moisture in the soil or too dry air, the tips of the leaves will begin to dry out. For more lush flowering, mineral top dressing is done every 10 days.
  • The plant should be transplanted annually after it has faded, cutting the stems in half. The soil must be acidic. You can purchase a ready-made soil mixture specifically for hydrangeas or rhododendrons. If the soil is not acidic enough, the leaves will begin to turn yellow.
  • For propagation of hydrangeas, freshly cut cuttings are used, which are stuck in wet sand and covered. glass jar before the appearance of the first leaf. When transplanting into a permanent pot, the seedling is pinched.

Bouquets in summer and winter

  • Hats of hydrangea flowers in bouquets look very nice. If, before placing in a vase, the tips of the branches are split and burned, and the foliage is removed, then the inflorescences will not lose their freshness for a long time.

  • Another technique for long-term preservation of the bouquet is to preserve the branches, using a solution of glycerin in hot water in a ratio of 6:4. Freshly cut shoots are lowered into the solution to a depth of 5 cm, after updating the cut under water and splitting the ends. The stems should stand in this solution for about three weeks. Shoots and leaves after the procedure will become elastic and slightly change in color.
  • You can not part with hydrangea all year round, as excellent dry bouquets are made from its inflorescences. Cut for a bouquet produced in mid-September. The branches are placed for drying in a ventilated dark room, hanging with inflorescences down and removing the foliage. You can add other dried herbs to the compositions, they will only benefit from this. For example, dry mother-of-pearl lunaria will perfectly complement the bouquet and make it more original.

Hydrangea photo

The petiolate hydrangea attracts with its large inflorescences and a pleasant honey smell. If properly planted and given the recommended care, it can grow up to 10 m in height. This plant is a medium between creepers and ordinary garden hydrangeas, has lush fragrant inflorescences, the flowers in which look like butterflies. She can braid any object that will be "offered" to her - be it garden figures or a fence. This species is often chosen for landscape design.

The climbing hydrangea has interesting feature- its white flowers can be given any color with the help of various dyes. And also especially the fact that the plant blooms during almost the entire summer season.

This plant is called climbing, because it really looks like a vine, braiding fences, other trees, located along the walls of the house. This hydrangea succeeds due to its aerial roots and peculiar “sucker hooks”. Curly petiole hydrangea is hardy plant, large perennial bushes can withstand negative temperatures up to -30 degrees.

Wild hydrangea can be found in China, Korea, Japan, as well as in the Primorsky Territory, but very rarely. Usually it is grown specially.
View Hydrangea petiolate curly is present in the Red Book.

Spring is the best time to plant hydrangea cuttings. The place where the bush will grow should be protected from direct sunlight and gusty winds. But the shade is also not suitable, because a bright place is required for abundant flowering.

The soil should be selected moist, loose, it can be slightly acidified beforehand. Optimal composition for planting hydrangeas, a mixture of peat, earth and sand can be considered.

The pit for planting should be 2 times larger than the size of the container with the hydrangea seedling. Folded roots are recommended to be deployed in different directions so that they are not tangled and compressed. When planting in the ground, the root neck can be placed to a depth not exceeding three centimeters, otherwise the plant may not take root, and development will be very slow.

After the roots are placed in the hole, the ground around it should be carefully pressed and tamped, making sure that there are no empty spaces, dips, then the curly hydrangea root system will not dry out prematurely and lack moisture.
As soon as the plant is planted, it is recommended to water the soil abundantly - the hydrangea loves moisture and damp earth, so in this case you should not feel sorry for the water.
It will also be useful to sprinkle the ground with bark and peat on top, the layer thickness should be about ten centimeters. Mulching with peat and bark should be late spring and with stable frosts - in late autumn.

The most important thing in caring for hydrangeas is regular abundant watering once every ten days. This is especially true for the first year after planting, because the roots of the plant have not yet grown stronger and cannot take the required amount of moisture from the ground. In the warm season, hydrangeas require more water and oxygen, in which case you can install either a humidifier or a sprayer next to the planted plant so that the air around the hydrangea is always in a humid state.
If the hydrangea grows beautifully, evenly, as if from a picture, then it is not necessary to cut it. It is only necessary from time to time to excise dead areas, dry branches and the like.

But if the growth of the hydrangea is directed upwards, then the shoots should be cut off periodically, independently directing their growth in the necessary direction, do not forget about the supports for the shoots. Trimming the bushes will contribute to the appearance of new side branches. You should not be afraid to cut off the excess, the hydrangea tolerates pruning well.
Chereshkovaya curly hydrangea usually considered frost-resistant, it is grown even in the Siberian climate, but still, young seedlings in the first 3 years after planting are best covered in frosty winter time. With the onset of frosty time, the shoots should be covered either with fallen leaves left over from autumn, or with thick spruce branches and left until spring.

How to fertilize and feed petioled climbing hydrangea?

In order for the hydrangea to please with its lush inflorescences and strong green leaves, it must be fertilized with organic and mineral solutions. Ready-made fertilizer for hydrangeas can be bought at the store or mixed in the right proportions yourself. Thanks to top dressing, the plant develops faster, blooms more, and the foliage has a bright green color. Be sure to fertilize the soil before planting a seedling, and fertilizer is applied during the period of active development of the plant.
The first watering with fertilizer should be planned for May-June. The following recipe can be used as a fertilizer: in ten parts of water, you need to dilute a part chicken manure. Then you need to pour another mineral solution, which consists of two parts of superphosphate, part of saltpeter and one part of urea. Feeding should be done twice a month.

Plant breeding

Reproduction of petiole hydrangea can be done in several ways:

  • cuttings;
  • division;
  • reproduction by layering.

If the bush has a lot of new shoots, then excellent seedlings can be cut off from them, while shortening to a small number of buds, and the root should be cut off a little, and then treated with a solution of manganese. Then new shoots should be planted in previously dug holes; abundant watering is required in the first two months. The best time for planting new shoots, as mentioned earlier, is spring and early summer.

When choosing a propagation method by cuttings, you need to select shoots with a maximum length of 15 cm, they must be lignified, that is, they must have a kind of bark and be strong. It is advisable to choose shoots that have two nodes. They cut off the top and bottom leaves. The stalk must be treated with a growth stimulator, after processing it should be placed in a container with a mixture of sand and peat. It is recommended to regularly check the soil moisture, and it is also better to cover the box with a film. It can be removed when the hydrangea takes root and gets stronger.

If the method of propagation by layering is chosen, then the lowest branch should be carefully attached to the moist and loose soil. Where it touches the ground, you need to make a cut and mulch with peat. The optimal landing time: either the beginning of May or August, when the sun is not the most active.
But it has been proven that propagation by cuttings is a 100% success, that is, in all cases of planting a cutting in the ground, the hydrangea will take root.
Often, gardeners who decide to plant hydrangeas are unhappy that ten-centimeter shoots bought in a store or at a fair die in the very first frosts. There are several explanations for this.

  • Firstly, most likely, the hydrangea was not planted in its season, that is, not in the spring, as expected, but in the fall, it did not have time to form its strong root system that would feed it.
  • Secondly, a young, fragile shoot is practically not resistant to temperature extremes and frost, unlike an adult plant. The older the hydrangea, the higher its frost resistance is a fact.

Therefore, in order to avoid the death of a young plant in any case, especially when planting out of season, you should buy a strong, formed shoot of petiole hydrangea, and in the first frosts wrap it with a piece of "non-woven fabric".

Possible pests and diseases

  1. Chlorosis. Manifested in the discoloration of hydrangea leaves. A disease occurs due to the fact that the earth contains too much humus. Excess lime in the soil can also lead to chlorosis in the hydrangea. Most likely, the hydrangea will have to be transplanted into a more favorable environment for it.
  2. Hydrangea is also very sensitive to powdery mildew (gray rot). To prevent the plant from getting sick with this ailment, you need to try not to overdo it with fertilizers and excessive watering, especially during the rainy season. In the fight against the listed diseases, it would be appropriate to use Bordeaux liquid.
  3. Insects are very fond of infecting petiole hydrangea: thrips, aphids, mites. Insecticides will rid the plant of pests. In the season, two treatments should be carried out with an interval between each 10 days.

Where to buy, approximate cost of petiole hydrangea

It is possible to buy this beautiful plant in city flower shops or order it via the Internet, especially since various delivery services are working fine now.
The approximate price of petiolate hydrangea in Russia is from 300 to 3,000 rubles.

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Hydrangea rough Sargent - Hydrangea aspera Sargentiana

Ornamental shrubs attract rich greenery and abundant flowering. This is confirmed by the petiolate hydrangea.

The beauty of the plant is not obtained immediately, so it is necessary to make efforts to form it. The development of a kind of shrub-liana largely depends on proper care. If you direct the development of the stems in the right direction, the site will become a natural oasis for relaxation among other fuss.

Each region has its own climate, so when growing hydrangeas, flower growers will have to make their own adjustments to the general recommendations.

The same applies to the composition of the soil, which is easily changed by adding required amount nutrients.

climbing liana

Among all varieties ornamental plants petiolate hydrangea is not so common. It is a liana-like shrub, which immediately begins to creep along the ground in the absence of a reliable support nearby. When a tree hydrangea is grown, caring for it includes the mandatory provision of partial shade, but the petiole hydrangea requires more light.

Characteristics of petiole hydrangea:

  • leaves are dark green, broadly ovate, smooth and with a shiny surface;
  • leaf length up to 8 cm;
  • flowers are collected in loose corymbose inflorescences up to 20 cm in diameter;
  • the root system is very airy, consists of suckers;
  • in height can reach 25 m.

Can be used as a groundcover (among all hydrangeas, this is the only genus that is suitable for this purpose).

climbing liana perfect for decorating:

  • tree trunks;
  • walls of houses, garages or other buildings;
  • gazebos;
  • balconies;
  • arches;
  • fencing both inside the site and along its border.

What varieties of this ornamental shrub are known in Russia?

The most popular are Curly Liana and Miranda.

Hydrangea petiolate Cordifolia

A shrub of this variety can rightfully be called a dwarf. Rounded green leaves, like other petiolate hydrangeas, have a sheen on the upper side. Cordifolia is famous for:

  • white-green color of the underside of the leaves;
  • creamy fertile flowers;
  • aroma of honey;
  • a few sterile (barren) white inflorescences;
  • the height of an adult plant is a meter and a half;
  • an annual increase in shoot length of 10 cm.

It is frost-resistant and undemanding, which is manifested by increased resistance to diseases and pests.

Hydrangea petiolate Miranda

One of the most beautiful varieties.

Green leaves are decorated with a natural light green-yellow border. White flowers are collected in inflorescences-scutellum. The plant clings to nearby surfaces with its aerial roots, growing up to 10 m along its entire length. The annual growth is approximately 0.5 m.

The shrub is famous for its frost resistance.

Miranda blooms in June and August, decorating the site with its appearance.

Care

Even without treatment, almost 100% of the cuttings take root, so there should be no problems with proper planting. The cultivation of petiole hydrangea from seeds is carried out mainly by breeders or flower and garden communities.

Best of all, the plant takes root in the southern regions, but in the northern regions it is necessary to carefully prepare for wintering.

If you really like hydrangea, home care will include proper pruning:

    The ground cover plant requires the timely removal of dead or damaged shoots.

    There is no need to prune, as the vine is perfectly fixed on the ground by adventitious roots.

    With vertical gardening, skillful pruning helps to correct vertical growth and branching of shoots. In this case, it is simply necessary to intensively remove powerful growths so that the lateral processes cover the surface of the wall or fence as much as possible.

    In parallel with pruning, the hydrangea is directed in the right direction and the stems are tied up.

It is enough to moisten the soil under the roots of the vine every 10-15 days for the plant to develop fully. However, if it rains or groundwater passes nearby, you can completely refuse to water. In severe drought, it is still recommended to pay attention to soil moisture in order to help petiole hydrangea in a timely manner.

In severe frost, some of the shoots will die.

You can either trust the natural renewal of the flower, or cover especially vulnerable places with polyethylene. If snow falls in winter, then you can use it as a pillow that protects the hydrangea roots from freezing. Everything else with a holistic root system will quickly recover with the first stable spring days.

Description of hydrangea

Genus Hydrangea (Hydrangea Hydrangea) includes 35 species. Homeland - Southeast Asia, North and South America. Among the representatives of the genus are mainly deciduous shrubs, with long semi-ampelous shoots, less often small trees. Name from Greek words"hydor" - water, "aggeion" - a vessel, developed in view of the obvious moisture-loving nature of this plant.

Hydrangea belongs to ornamental flowering shrubs, the inflorescences are mostly corymbose, as a rule, they consist of flowers of two types: small fruit-bearing, located in the middle of the inflorescence; marginal - large, barren, of 4-5 petaloid sepals, mostly snow-white, blue or pinkish.

The fruit is a capsule with numerous small seeds.

Tree hydrangea Hydrangea arborescens - in nature grows up to 3 meters tall, forming a dense bush with large whole leaves - about 20 cm long, with a serrated edge. It blooms with white flowers without aroma, about 2 cm in diameter, collected in corymbose inflorescences about 15 cm in size. Breeders have bred varieties with double (completely sterile) flowers, inflorescences of which are more than 25 cm in diameter, of a wide variety of shades.

This hydrangea easily winters in central Russia, it is well formed by pruning, including cardinal. It grows very fast.

Hydrangea macrophylla Hydrangea macrophylla somewhat more modest - in nature it grows up to 2 meters tall, has broadly ovoid large leaves(about 15 cm).

It is this type of hydrangea that is called garden hydrangea; several dozen varieties can be found on sale. Corymbose inflorescences up to 20 cm in diameter, there are varieties with spherical extremely large inflorescences up to 30 cm in diameter, sterile white, pink, red or blue flowers each flower up to 7 cm in diameter.

The large-leaved hydrangea has decorative forms with variegated leaves, for example, the Tricolor variety - a white stripe along the edge of the leaves, the leaf plate itself is light green.

Large-leaved hydrangea is more thermophilic than tree-like; in central Russia, winter shelter from frost is required (winter hardiness down to -15C).

Often large-leaved hydrangea is grown as a tub or greenhouse plant (for a winter garden).

At the same time, the height of the bushes reaches a maximum of one and a half meters in height, more often no more than 1 meter in height. Grows well under artificial light.

Hydrangea paniculata Hydrangea paniculata can also decorate your garden - Oriental beauty originally from South Sakhalin, Japan and China.

This is a taller, frost-resistant shrub - about 2.5-3 meters in height, in the wild up to 10 meters, has elliptical leaves up to 15 cm in length with a velvety surface. Inflorescences are dense pyramidal (panicles) up to 30 cm in length. Flowering is long, from mid-summer to mid-autumn.

Bretschneider's hydrangea Hydrangea bretschneideri is a medium-sized shrub with a spreading crown up to 3 meters high, very frost-resistant (homeland - Northern China, adapts in Siberia and the Urals).

The stems are reddish, with thin peeling bark on young shoots. Leaves ovoid, with reverse side fluffy, 10-12 cm long. Inflorescences are umbellate about 15 cm in diameter, with small flowers that change color from white at the beginning of flowering to red at the end of flowering.

On the inflorescences, fruits form over time.

Another Far Eastern hydrangea, Hydrangea petiolaris, native to South Sakhalin, the Kuril Islands and Japan, is rather an ampelous form - the plant has air measles with suction cups, which allows the shoots to cling to rocks or tree trunks.

Without support, the shoots spread along the ground, forming a ground cover form. As a shrub, this species must be grown, fixing the stems to the support. The leaves are broadly ovate, long-petiolate, smooth, with a finely serrated edge.

Inflorescence corymbose, 20-25 cm in diameter. Despite the fact that the petals of the central fertile flowers do not last long, the inflorescences are quite decorative, and the shrub is a real decoration of the walls of houses, arbors and other buildings.

Despite the origin, the petiolate hydrangea is less frost-resistant than the previous species; it needs shelter in harsh winters.

Location

In the southern regions of Russia, choose a bright place, but protected from the scorching afternoon sun (partial shade). From the eastern, northwestern part of the gazebo, walls of the house or barn.

In the central regions of Russia and the northern regions, choose a place that is drier and more open, warmed by the sun, but keep in mind that hydrangeas do not like prolonged exposure to direct sunlight (south and southwest side).

Try not to plant hydrangeas next to other watermelon plants or large shrubs and trees - there is competition for moisture, the plants will often have to be watered.

soil for hydrangeas

Hydrangea is considered one of the most unpretentious garden shrubs, however, only if it is planted on soil suitable for its needs: nutritious, with a sufficient proportion of humus, containing many draining particles, well-filled with moisture.

If you have an uncultivated piece of land, you need to prepare a mixture of earth in a hole dug for planting, consisting of 2 parts of humus, 2 parts of leafy soil, one part of peat and sand.

If vegetables grew in the same place, under which manure was applied, the humus part must be reduced.

Hydrangea does not like dense clay soils - they are moisture-intensive, but they dry out for a long time and are poorly supplied with oxygen, such soil must be diluted with peat.

Sandy soil is poor in the humus component, and it also needs to be enriched with humus and peat.

You can not plant hydrangeas on alkaline soils, with an acidity pH higher than 6.0, the optimum pH is about 5.0.

Planting hydrangeas

It is best to plant hydrangeas in the spring, when the threat has passed. return frosts. In the southern regions of Russia, you can plant in the fall.

When planning a place for planting hydrangeas, it is necessary to take into account the size of an adult bush, leaving a distance of about 1 meter between plantings.

The size of the dug hole is about 50-60 cm wide and deep.

Fill it 20-30 cm with soil, then put a 5 liter bucket (empty) inside and fill around with earth. Tamp down the soil.

Hydrangea Sargent

Now remove the bucket - you will get a neat hole with a diameter of 25-30 cm wide and deep. In it, and place a hydrangea bush or a rooted cutting, without deepening the root neck. Sprinkle the roots with earth, not strongly compacting. Water.

In 3-5 days the earth will settle, after which we mulch with peat.

How to care for hydrangea

Hydrangeas need to be watered regularly, especially in dry, hot weather.

Water for irrigation should be taken soft, better than rain, hard water with a high proportion of hydrangea lime is contraindicated, if this is the water in the well, just save rain water in barrels.

If the weather is rainy, precipitation often falls, you need to loosen the soil around the hydrangeas at least once a week, to a depth of 7-10 cm, in order to improve the aeration of the roots.

In late spring, early summer, fertilize hydrangeas with diluted mullein (ratio 1:10), and two weeks later with complete mineral fertilizer for flowering plants (for example, Lux Fertik), or make your own fertilizer from 1 tbsp.

tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium and 1 teaspoon of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water.

In the future, you do not need to fertilize more often than once a month, it is enough to periodically mulch the soil under the bushes with humus or peat.

Hydrangea color change

Many gardeners know that when flowering, hydrangeas easily change color when the acidic composition of the soil changes.

So, watering with alum gives the flowers a blue color, for this you need to dissolve 5 g of the product in 1 liter of water. Alum is sold in flower shops or pharmacies. For reference, the composition of alum: heptahydrate of aluminum and potassium salts.

In order for hydrangea flowers to change color, you need to shed them with alum once a week for a month.

If the acidity of the soil is insufficient, then hydrangeas tend to acquire a pink tint, and some varieties simply lose their color - fade and discolor.

In acidic peat, the flowers turn purple or blue, so you can water the bushes with peat-infused water.

In order, on the contrary, to enhance the intensity of the pink color of hydrangea flowers, you can pour them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).

pruning hydrangeas

Hydrangeas form dense lush bushes, and they bloom on the shoots of the current year.

Therefore, the more branches a plant has, the more magnificent the flowering will be. Strong pruning should be carried out in the fall, after flowering along with the peduncle (cardinal pruning is acceptable, especially in the case of diseases or pests, when it makes no sense to leave and try to cure diseased branches).

But young hydrangeas that have not yet formed many shoots, for better branching, should be cut in the spring, before the buds open, shortening them by 2-3 buds, no more (otherwise, they are greatly depleted from abundant sap flow).

Very old hydrangea bushes (and they are long-lived plants) are updated with pruning at the root.

So the bushes can be preserved for decades, not forgetting to improve the soil under them by introducing humus and mulch (including leaf humus).

Young plants are ready to bloom profusely in the first year after planting. But, abundant flowering can severely deplete hydrangeas. Therefore, it is better to leave no more than 2-3 inflorescences on a bush about 50 cm high, and cut off the rest.

Shelter of hydrangeas for the winter

The most popular hydrangeas in our gardens - tree-like and large-leaved, show good frost resistance.

The most popular Annabelle hydrangea winters beautifully in the Moscow region and the Leningrad region without additional shelter.

Some varieties of large-leaved hydrangeas of Dutch origin are somewhat more tender, like any young hydrangeas grown from cuttings and cuttings - they must be mulched in the fall with peat, leafy soil, humus or a mixture of humus and sawdust to protect against freezing.

Cover the bushes themselves with spruce branches. But do not forget to remove the shelter in the spring to avoid damping out.

In regions with severe winters, it is necessary to additionally cover hydrangeas for the winter with a film or spunbond.

With the onset of frosty weather, bend the shoots to the ground, mulch, cover with a film of leaf litter. It is better not to use straw, because. mice love it.

In the spring, after the snow has melted, remove the film cover, tie up the hydrangea shoots in vertical position, but before warm days(until the threat of a return frost has passed), keep a burlap cover (there is no dampening under it).

Reproduction of hydrangea

Garden hydrangea is easily propagated vegetatively - by cuttings and layering of the bush.

For propagation by cuttings, it is necessary to cut off still green branches during flowering from the ends of non-lignified shoots of the growth of the current year.

The size of the cuttings is about 15-17 cm. Tear off the lower leaves, dip the tip of the cutting in a root or other root formation stimulator and immerse it in a container filled with a mixture of vermiculite and peat soil for rooting. Better hydrangeas take root in conditions of high humidity (in a mini-greenhouse or under a bag).

If the cuttings rot, cut fresh ones, and sterilize the rooting substrate by frying on a baking sheet.

Abundant and lush flowering from rooted branches can be expected no earlier than in 4-5 years.

Large-leaved hydrangea is often grown as a home plant, so it can also be propagated before winter - by separating small layers from the mother bush and planting it in an ordinary flower pot.

The composition of the soil in a pot for hydrangeas: 2 parts of sod land, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of coarse-grained river sand or fine gravel.

Many ornamental shrubs are suitable for growing as a tree, but not everyone makes a beautiful creation.

Hydrangea paniculata, just suitable for such a peculiar molding. You can grow a tree from any type of hydrangea, except for the large-leaved one, but the paniculate hydrangea Vanille Fraise looks more picturesque and elegant than all. In addition, it is unpretentious in care and extremely frost-resistant, which of course plays an important role for gardeners.

Choose a seedling in one trunk for growing a tree. If this is not possible, then on a young bush, find a stem growing from the center as vertically as possible.

This bush is best planted separately from the rest. Its formation in the form of a tree will take from 3 to 4 years.

Step back at least 60-70 cm from the surface of the earth and clean this part from shoots and foliage.

During the summer period, new branches appear on the stem, they are pinched 1-2 times per season: these are thickening shoots. Due to them, the trunk will thicken. When they have fulfilled their function, cut them "on the ring".

At the central conductor, every spring before the start of the growing season, shorten the top to a well-developed bud so that the remaining side shoots form a kind of bowl.

You also cut them at the same level. Thus, it turns out, as it were, a glass on a long stem, that is, the “skeleton” of the future tree.

You install a peg next to (almost back to back) with the hydrangea trunk, for which you tie the plant in several places.

The peg should be about one and a half times higher than the hydrangea.

HYDRANGE (HYDRANGEA)

You can tie the trunk behind it with elastic band or, for example, with old tights: in this case, the tree will not suffer from constrictions when the trunk grows and thickens.



In the spring, and preferably from February to April, carry out sanitary and formative pruning: cut out all weak and broken, dry shoots, as well as all layering, below the "crown" of the tree.

During the summer, maintain the desired shape. In the fall, prune only faded inflorescences. By the way, they can be left until spring for decorative garden.

The hydrangea paniculata tree can reach a height of 2-2.5 meters.

Vanille Fraise blooms from August.

And the last.

It will take you more than one year for panicle hydrangea to grow in beautiful tree. Stock up on patience. In the meantime, plant or plant pots with unpretentious annual flowers next to it, or begin to form a flower garden with undersized creeping plants.

Ground cover plants with ornamental leaves

Ground cover flowering plants

In such a flower garden, hydrangea will “play solo” with a tree.

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Large-leaved hydrangea in the garden: planting and care

Hydrangeas of various types are becoming more accessible to Russian plant lovers every year. In the species assortment of hydrangeas, large-leaved hydrangea attracts special attention of gardeners. It is represented on the modern market by many new varieties with a variety of different colors inflorescences.

IN last years there has been an abundance of material on growing large-leaved hydrangeas, but gardeners continue to ask me many questions about planting hydrangea seedlings and caring for the plant.

Therefore, in this separate article, I want to draw the attention of Gardenia readers. ru on the main points of the agricultural technology of hydrangeas.

Planting seedlings of large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangeas should be planted in such a place in the garden that their bushes are illuminated by the sun only in the morning and evening (at least 6 hours a day).

In the direct midday sun, the leaves and inflorescences of the large-leaved hydrangea droop. With an evening drop in temperature and with sufficient soil moisture, the foliage of hydrangeas usually restores turgor, but the flowers may no longer recover ...

When planting a hydrangea grown in a pot in the garden, the following must be done.

It is desirable that the young roots of the hydrangea seedling germinate into the garden soil as quickly as possible. Therefore, it is necessary to fill the planting hole with a nutritious and loose organic mixture composed of peat, humus, coniferous litter and garden soil. Before planting a seedling, you must decide in advance what color of inflorescences you want to have for the planted hydrangea. Later, after planting the seedlings, it can be difficult to change the acidity of the soil under the hydrangea.

To obtain pink and red inflorescences in large-leaved hydrangea: PH of the earthen mixture should be about 6.0-6.2 (if more than 6.4, hydrangea may begin chlorosis due to lack of iron in an accessible form).

To obtain blue, blue and purple inflorescences in large-leaved hydrangea: The pH of the earthen mixture should be about 5.2-5.5. Aluminum sulfate should be added to the soil. Water the plants with soft water with a pH not higher than 5.6.
It must be remembered that red and pink large-leaved hydrangeas in acidic soil, respectively, will have dark pink and pink-lilac flowers; they may not reach the pure red and pure pink coloring inherent in their varieties.

In the photo: red hydrangea "Red Sensation" in the garden; pink hydrangea "Early Sensation"

Hot weather also does not contribute to the manifestation of red color in hydrangea inflorescences.

Large-leaved hydrangea with white flowers does not change the color of the inflorescences (its flowers can turn pink only in autumn).

2. If in your garden clay soil, then, in order to avoid stagnant water near the hydrangea roots, make drainage at the bottom of the planting pit.

Before planting the hydrangea, very carefully, without injuring the young roots, straighten as many roots as possible of the seedling, curled around the clod of earth (after soaking it in a bucket of water).

4. When planting hydrangeas, carefully remove the old soil (as much as possible) from the top of the seedling pot to the young roots, replacing it with the prepared earthen mixture.

Watering large-leaved hydrangea

When watering garden hydrangea It must be remembered that this is a very moisture-loving plant.

It is necessary to constantly keep the soil under the hydrangea and around the bush moist. This is facilitated by mulching the earth (with coniferous litter or bark).

It is necessary to shed the soil so that not only the soil around the hydrangea is wet, but also the clod of earth in which the hydrangea grew in a pot is soaked with water - where, after planting, its main root system is still located.

Otherwise, this clod of earth (it differs in composition from the planting mixture prepared by you) will stand in landing pit dry!

If possible, use drip irrigation to care for hydrangeas in the garden.

Pruning large-leaved hydrangea

The first three years, the newly planted hydrangea is not pruned, except for pruning dried branches.

Do not expect lush flowering from a young plant until the bush is well rooted.

Three years after planting seedlings, ordinary (not remontant) large-leaved hydrangeas are pruned in Russia in the spring (unlike Tim Bebel's method). At the same time, the old hydrangea inflorescences left for the winter are cut off to the first live bud.

Make sanitary pruning of dried branches.

If, in the spring, the last year's branch is cut off from the remontant hydrangea, depriving it of the upper (apical) bud, then a little later, several peduncles are formed from the lateral buds on the same branch in the current season.
So you can increase the number of inflorescences only in remontant hydrangea.

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The same operation with an ordinary hydrangea will bring a similar result only the next year.

In this way, you can determine which hydrangea grows in your garden - remontant or not. Indeed, even among the old varieties of large-leaved hydrangeas with lost names, there are remontants.

Changing the color of inflorescences in large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangeas with pink and red inflorescences can change the initial color of their flowers to blue, blue and purple.

Although there are varieties of hydrangeas with pink flowers that do not turn blue well.

To change the color of the inflorescences of large-leaved hydrangea, the soil under the seedling must be acidic.
Water the plant with a solution of aluminum sulfate (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water) every week throughout the season.

Such hydrangeas are fed with fertilizers with a low phosphorus content (N: P: K = 25: 5: 30), because.

excess phosphorus binds aluminum in the soil, preventing large-leaved hydrangea inflorescences from changing color to blue or purple.

In order for hydrangeas to remain with the original pink or red color of the flowers: the pH of the soil must be 6.0-6.2. Alkalize the soil if necessary dolomite flour or ash.
It is necessary to use fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus (N:P:K = 10:40:10).

In the photo: hydrangea varieties "Stargazer" with different colors of inflorescences

The color intensity of inflorescences in large-leaved hydrangeas is associated with the presence of different amounts of delphinidin pigment in different varieties.

When the color of the inflorescences changes, - in the process of transition Pink colour in blue - hydrangea inflorescences go through a stage of lilac color.

Igor Sergeevich Arkatov (Kazan)
www.r-garden.narod.ru

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Growing hydrangeas. Place, soil (soil), planting

How to grow hydrangea? Where to plant it? How to choose the soil? How to form a hedge? (10+)

Growing hydrangeas

decorative perennial grows as a bush, and sometimes in the form of a tree that adorns borders, lawns, houses. Has flowers of two types: small fruiting? located in the middle of the inflorescence, and large marginal - barren.

The first years after planting, the plant is low in stature and other undersized flowers can be planted on it.

Place and soil

The place and soil for planting hydrangeas should be very high in humus, loose and permeable.

Mandatory compliance with pH, ​​it must be within 5.5. It is quite easy to control the pH of the soil; with a slight deviation, hydrangea flowers change their color. With increased acidity of the soil, the flowers turn blue, and if the level deviates to the alkaline side, the flowers have a pink color. How to determine and adjust the acidity of the soil, you can read the link.

For good plant growth and flowering, partial shade is necessary, but in no case direct sunlight.

Since the soil on them dries out very quickly, and the flowers themselves become much smaller. It is not recommended to plant hydrangea under trees and shrubs, as the root system will not have enough moisture.

Planting hydrangeas

You can plant hydrangea in the fall only if the seedlings have a good root system. Otherwise better fit practice in the spring. Before planting, it is recommended to add a sufficient amount of sand, needles, and ash to the soil.

It is also necessary to install drainage system. The depth of the pit for planting should be at least half a meter, this is in order to protect the root system from damage. When filling the pit, sawdust must be added to the soil, they will help maintain soil moisture.

soil fertilization.

Before planting, it is necessary to apply organic and complex mineral fertilizers in sufficient quantities. In the spring, additionally add urea to the soil. Be sure to moderate the introduction of manure. Since with its overabundance there will be very large inflorescences that can break off branches.

Dissolve 8-10 gr. ammonia-potassium or potassium alum in 2 liters of water. This solution is enough to feed one bush. Also for coloring hydrangea flowers in blue color you can use a bluing agent, which is sold in flower shops.

It is better to immediately forget about feeding hydrangeas with ashes.

In addition to alum and iron salts, mineral fertilizers are suitable for heather crops, rhododendrons and azaleas.

In the first year of planting large-leaved hydrangea in the ground, the plant can be watered with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. This measure will prevent damage to the bases of the shoots by rot. Also for this purpose, you can use fungicides, for example, Fitosporin.

When caring for a hydrangea, it must be remembered that the plant responds well to all top dressing.

In the spring, at the beginning of growth, the Riga mixture with microelements is added or per 1 sq. m give 20 - 25 g of urea, 30 - 40 g of superphosphate and 30 -35 g of potassium sulfate. During the budding period, a second top dressing is made at the rate of 60 - 80 g of superphosphate and 40 - 45 g of potassium sulfate per 1 sq.

m; the third and fourth top dressing - in the summer. Hydrangeas are moisture-loving: 15 - 20 liters for each plant are given once a week, when it rains, 1 time per month is enough. To enhance the strength of the shoots of the plant, it is recommended to water it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

When caring for hydrangeas, it should be noted that it is advisable to mulch the soil with peat or sawdust with a layer of 6 cm and leave them for the summer, raking them from the stems of the plant.

Loosening to a depth of 5 - b cm is carried out together with weeding and watering 2-3 times per season.

There are two ways to artificially turn hydrangea flowers from white to blue.

First, aluminum sulfate is poured around the roots. The second - the bush is watered with a special bluing agent, which can be bought at a gardening store.

Pit. It should be of sufficient size so that the root system is not damaged during planting.

40 varieties of hydrangeas for Russian gardens

For a seedling that is about 5 years old, the depth should reach up to 40 cm, and the width should be at least 50 cm.

Creating a hedge. If you create a hedge, then the distance between the seedlings themselves should be about one meter.

After a few years, it is necessary to prune the plant and thin it out.

planting season. Of special importance does not have if your area does not have harsh winters. Otherwise, transplanting is best done in the spring.

spring planting.

Has its own characteristics. First of all, it is necessary to remove annual shoots (leaving only a few buds), then shorten the roots of the seedlings. Mandatory abundant watering after planting and mulching the soil with peat.

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Hydrangea is the most popular among gardeners. rough varieties Macrophylla (Macrophylla). It is a shrub with thick branches, which is distinguished by a combination of white and lilac inflorescences. In the center of the latter are small lilac-purple flowers, which are surrounded by white big flowers. Large flat inflorescences reach up to 20 cm in circumference.

The leaves also have decorative value. They are quite large - about 35 cm long, 25 cm wide. In early summer they are velvety, dark green in color, turning brown-orange by the end of the season. The height of this type of hydrangea ranges from 1.5 m to 2.5 m, the ornamental shrub grows up to 1.2 m wide. The plant has an increased winter hardiness, which is extremely important for regions with a cold climate.

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    Landing Rules

    Before proceeding with planting, it is necessary to determine the optimal location of the hydrangea. She loves warmth, cannot stand the hot sun and is afraid strong winds and cold.

    Hydrangea prefers fertile, neutral or slightly acidic soil. Most best age for planting a seedling - 2-3 years. The procedure is carried out in the spring or autumn.

    Landing algorithm:

    1. 1 At the bottom of the hole, to prevent stagnation of excess moisture and rotting of the root system, a drainage layer about 15 cm thick is laid: crushed stone, pieces of crushed brick. The size of the hole depends on the type of soil (on light soil - 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, on loam - 50 cm and 60 cm, on clay soil- 60 cm and 70 cm, respectively).
    2. 2 A fertile substrate is poured onto the drainage with a layer of 10-15 cm.
    3. 3 The seedling is placed in a hole, the roots are distributed over the hole, and the hydrangea root collar is placed slightly above the soil level.
    4. 4 The roots are covered with the remaining earth and rammed. Pour plenty of water (2-3 buckets).

    If hydrangeas are planted in dry and hot weather, it is recommended to spray the seedling with water.

    Necessary care

    1. 1 Watering. Insufficient amount of water can have a detrimental effect on the growth and flowering of the plant. In hot, dry weather, hydrangea must be watered at least twice a week, at the rate of 3-5 buckets under a bush. If the weather is cloudy, then once is enough. You can reduce the amount of watering with the help of mulching - a layer of mulch should be about 10 cm.
    2. 2 Feeding hydrangeas. After transferring to permanent place hydrangea does not need to be fertilized for two years - it has enough of the fertilizers that were applied during planting. In the third year - in early spring, the plant needs to be fed, preferably with a specialized complex for hydrangeas. During the appearance of buds, the bush must be fertilized with superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Another plant will need to be fertilized with diluted 1:10 mullein. To ensure increased strength of the branches, it is advisable to water the bush once every 30 days with the addition of potassium permanganate at the rate of 2 mg per 10 liters of water.
    3. 3 Pruning branches. It is carried out to prevent excessive density of the bush, at which the flowers are crushed. The first two years after transplantation, the bush does not need to be cut, giving it the opportunity to get stronger. In the third year, pruning is carried out in late March - early April, that is, before the juices begin to move. First of all, you need to cut off diseased, damaged shoots and branches that violate the decorative effect of the bush. Then cut all last year's shoots into 3 buds, which helps to give the bush a neat shape.

    Diseases and pests

    Hydrangea is susceptible to attack by insect pests such as aphids, spider mites, different types of bedbugs and weevil. To get rid of them, the plant must be sprayed with insecticide solutions.

    Hydrangea is considered a disease-resistant plant, but it can suffer from chlorosis or downy mildew. At the first lighten the leaves, and the veins remain dark. This is due to the transformation of acidic soil into alkaline. To get rid of this disease, the bush is watered with a solution of iron sulfate (45 g per 10 liters of water). When affected by downy mildew, oily spots form on the leaves, turning yellow and darkening over time. To cure the bush is treated with a solution of foundationol.

    Hydrangeas Macrophyla are inherently frost-resistant, but it is advisable to insulate tree trunks with covering material or a thick layer of sawdust and dry leaves for the winter.

    reproduction

    Reproduction of hydrangea is carried out different ways. It depends both on the climate and the experience of the grower.

    The easiest and most common method is propagation by green cuttings (with leaves and buds). The procedure is recommended to be carried out in mid-July, when buds appear.

    cuttings

    The process is the following:

    1. 1 Cut early in the morning lateral shoots with large buds, while they are still well saturated with moisture.
    2. 2 Put them in water.
    3. 3 Remove the green top.
    4. 4 Cut the shoots into pieces so that each of them has 2-3 leaves. Cut off the lower ones, and cut off the upper ones in half.
    5. 5 Place the cut cuttings for 2 hours in water with "Kornevin" so that the leaves are above the liquid level.
    6. 6 Prepare the soil: two parts of peat must be mixed with one part of sand, and then moistened.
    7. 7 Place the cuttings in the ground and cover with jars.

    Watering should be carried out 1-2 times in 7-10 days. After about a month, the cuttings will take root (an indicator of this will be the appearance of new leaves). Banks from seedlings must be removed, covered with any material to protect them from autumn frosts. On the winter period seedlings must additionally be covered with foliage and hay. Plants are planted in a permanent place when they reach a height of 35-45 cm.

    seeds

    Some prefer seed propagation. But with this method of sowing breeding types of hydrangeas, the latter lose their varietal properties.

    The process is as follows:

    1. 1 Seed material does not need pre-treatment. It is planted in a container for seedlings (in moist soil).
    2. 2 Close with polyethylene or glass.
    3. 3 Watering is carried out as the soil dries. After 20 days, the first shoots appear.
    4. 4 The seedlings are grown for about two years, after which they are transferred to a permanent place.

    layering

    Reproduction by layering is also practiced, but it is advisable before the buds bloom (i.e., in early spring):

    1. 1 The soil near the bush is dug up, and grooves are made in it about 3 cm deep.
    2. 2 The lower branch of the hydrangea is placed in the recesses, crocheted, moistened and added dropwise.
    3. 3 At the beginning of autumn, shoots appear on the layers, which need to be dug up when they grow to 20 cm. After a week and a half, they re-spud, and so on, until the mound reaches 26 cm.
    4. 4 In the middle of autumn, the layers are dug up, the processes are divided among themselves.
    5. 5 Seedlings are added dropwise until spring, then they are separated and grown.

    They can be planted in a permanent place in a year.

    But when propagating hydrangeas by offspring, a certain skill is required:

    1. 1 In autumn, remove the top layer of soil under the bush.
    2. 2 To avoid damage to the root system, carefully cut off the shoots, which are planted for growing for 1-2 years.

    Division

    Reproduction and division of the bush is possible. This method is relevant in the first months of spring.

    1. 1 Hydrangea is well moistened and dug up.
    2. 2 Clean and wash the soil from the roots.
    3. 3 Divide the bush into parts (their number depends on the size of the bush and the density of the roots).
    4. 4 Remove damaged parts, treat them with Kornevin.
    5. 5 Immediately planted shoots in a permanent place.

    Survival in this case is good. But which method to choose, everyone decides for himself.

    Hydrangea is beautiful flowering plant belongs to the Hortensia family. Japan is considered its homeland. In Europe, culture appeared in 1820.

    At that time, the plant had only two types: white and scarlet. Since 1900, hydrangeas have been selected. The first varieties did not differ in cold resistance, so the flowers were grown as houseplants.

    reference Information

    Most of the plant species are shrubs (their height is 1 - 3 meters), some specimens are small trees, others are lianas.

    Crops are either deciduous or evergreen. The most widespread are the first species, which belong to plants of a temperate climate.

    Hydrangea rough macrophylla

    Hydrangea got its name from the fusion of two Greek words ("hydro" - "water", "angelon" - "vessel"). This means that the seed pods are like pitchers or the plants are very fond of moisture.

    There is another legend: in the 18th century, the Frenchman Philibert Commerson, a doctor and naturalist, traveled around Japan. The sight of a flowering shrub fascinated him so much that he decided to give the plant the name Hydrangea in honor of his girlfriend. After all, none of local residents could not answer the name of the flower.

    Hydrangea Rough

    Brief description of this variety:

    • Shrubs have thick branches.
    • Large, flat inflorescences are white and lilac. The last specimens are distinguished by small lilac-purple flowers. The flowers are in the middle. Around them are snow-white large flowers.
    • The leaves are very decorative, large (length - 35 cm, width - 25 cm). Young leaves are velvety, dark green. At the end of the summer season, they are brown-orange.
    • The height of the bush (1.5-2.5 m.). Width (1.2 m.).
    • Hydrangea is highly winter hardy. It can be grown in regions with difficult climatic conditions (including in the Moscow region).
    • Hydrangea bloom (August-September).

    Planting a plant

    For the plant, choose a warm, well-protected area from strong winds. It is best to choose a shade or partial shade, because the hot midday sun and direct rays of light have a bad effect on the hydrangea.

    The soil should be nutritious, neutral, slightly acidified.

    For the plant, choose a warm, well-protected area from strong winds.

    It is best to choose a seedling aged 2 - 3 years.

    The plant can be planted in spring (after the ground has melted) or autumn (September).

    Landing technology

    Making a landing hole different size, depending on the soil:

    • light earth (depth - 50 cm, width - 40 cm);
    • loam (60 cm x 50 cm);
    • clay soils (70 cm x 60 cm).

    Chipped brick or crushed stone 15 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the pit. Such a layer will perform the function of drainage.

    They lay fertile soil in a layer of 10 - 20 cm. Humus, peat, mineral fertilizer (50 gr.) Are added to it.

    Bushes are planted, leaving a distance of at least 1.5 m between them. The root neck should not be buried. Leave it just above ground level.

    The tree is placed in the hole. Gently straighten the roots. Sprinkle with earth, tamp. Water abundantly (use at least 2 - 3 buckets of water).

    Attention! If the plant is planted in dry weather, then the seedling should be sprayed with water.

    Care

    Rough hydrangeas require a large amount of water. Its deficiency negatively affects the development and flowering of the bush. Therefore, the plant is watered abundantly (pour 3-5 buckets of liquid under the bush), often (at least 2 times a week).

    In the cloudy rainy weather one irrigation will suffice. Mulching with peat will help retain moisture (10 cm layer).

    Trunk circles must be loosened at least 2 times per season.

    Important! Hydrangea roots are in the upper layers of the earth. Therefore, loosening can only be carried out to a depth of 5 - 6 centimeters.

    The first two years, the young plant should be given rest. He lacks the nutrients used at the time of planting. You just need to care for hydrangeas as needed.

    Two years later, in early spring, the bushes begin to feed with mineral complexes. During the budding period, plants are fertilized with superphosphate, potassium sulfate, mullein (ratio with water 1:10). To make the branches stronger, hydrangeas are irrigated every 30 days with a solution of potassium permanganate (2 mg / 10 l of water).

    The first couple of years, the bushes do not need to be cut. They need to be strong. From the third year in the spring (the last days of March - the beginning of April), pruning is carried out. The necessary work must be done before the moment of sap flow. To begin with, diseased, damaged, broken shoots and branches are removed. Then all last year's shoots are cut off, retreating by 3 buds.

    Despite the excellent frost resistance of rough hydrangea for the winter, the near-stem zones should be wrapped with dry leaves, sawdust, and covering material.

    Reproduction of rough hydrangea

    Reproduction by dividing the bush

    Hydrangeas are bred in several ways:

    1. Seeds. They are sown in containers (the soil must be moist). Seedlings are covered with glass or polyethylene film. When the soil dries out, water it. Shoots appear after three weeks. Saplings need to be grown within two years. Then they are seated in the right places.
    2. cuttings. The lateral processes are cut off (they should have large buds). They put it in the water. Cut off the green tops. The branches are divided into fragments. Leave for two hours in Kornevin's solution. Placed in the ground. Covered with banks. Watered 1 - 2 times in 6 - 10 days. In a month, the petioles will take root. When the height of the seedlings is 35 - 45 cm, they are planted.
    3. The division of the bush. The plant is moistened, dug up. The roots are cleaned from the ground, washed. Plants are divided into several parts. Processed with Kornevin. Determined to the chosen place.

    Diseases, pests

    Rough hydrangea has good immunity. However, it can be affected by various diseases, and it is also attacked by insect pests.

    • Chlorosis. The leaves lighten, the veins on their background become dark. The reason is the alkalization of the soil. In this case, the plant is treated with a solution iron sulphate(45 gr/bucket of water).
    • Powdery mildew. The leaves are covered with oily spots. After some time, the spots turn yellow, darken. Bushes are treated with foundation.

    If they settled on hydrangeas spider mites, aphids, weevils, plant bugs are sprayed with insecticides.

    Additional Information! Recently appeared completely new variety plants - rough hydrangea Hot Chocolate (Hot Chocolat). It has beautiful large flowers and leaves. A characteristic feature of the plant is the lower part of the young foliage is burgundy, on top it is dark, chocolate-brown in color.

    Rough hydrangea is planted in parks, squares, on the streets. Grown in summer cottages, in gardens. Used in landscape design. It decorates flower beds, flower beds, looks great both in single plantings and in group compositions.