How to light a fire in a grate oven. How to kindle a stove with raw wood, effective methods

In such developed countries as the USA, Canada, England, Japan, there are still many people who do not want to give up furnace heating. They say - economically, comfortably, good for health. Ecologists confirm: it is much easier for nature to “digest” a dispersed emission from house stoves without a trace than a volley of the same power from a thermal power plant. But why - economically? Everyone knows that the stove is voracious. Yes, because those people know how to heat the stove. It's more difficult than brushing your teeth, but the art of the stoker can also be brought to full automatism.

Consequences are not correct firebox furnaces can be expressed visually, see fig.:

Although, by the way, it is also possible to heat a black bath so that the smoke from the outside will hardly be visible. However, the designs of house stoves have evolved over the centuries and therefore suffer serious violations of the operating mode (kiln operation). Quite a lot of people learn to heat the stove intuitively, and it seems to work well, see for example. video:

But read also the comments to it - mostly fair. Unobvious remains, firstly, the danger of burning out. Secondly, increased fuel consumption. How to heat the stove correctly is not only and not so much an art. This is a whole science that requires thorough knowledge of heat engineering, thermochemistry and other fields of knowledge. The purpose of this publication is to provide the reader with information that will allow him to master it. The result is more than worth the effort: heating costs per season are reduced by up to 40% (!).

How solid fuel burns

To begin with, it is not necessary to strain the mental apparatus especially. It is enough to know, firstly, that the thermal efficiency of oil and gas stoves is completely determined by the design of the stove/boiler, burner and fuel properties. There are practically no opportunities to achieve its savings by violating the normal operation of the device.

However, with regard to firewood, coal and peat, it is a different matter. The consumption of solid fuel for heating significantly depends on how the furnace or boiler is fired on it. It is explained by the peculiarities of the combustion of solid fuel: when the furnace is started, it is initially gasified from heating, releasing combustible gases. This process is called pyrolysis. Pyrolysis gases burn out, releasing heat, heating the carbon base to the combustion temperature, which releases the remainder of the total heat of combustion of this type of fuel.

Note: pyrolysis gases of coal are called coke oven gas, because. under certain conditions of its combustion, the carbon base remains unburned, forming coke. Wood can also be burned only at the stage of gasification - it will turn out charcoal. As a fuel, it is currently used only in cooking, since it is very expensive, and burning wood to charcoal is a very unecological process.

Proper gasification of fuel is especially important if the stove is fired with wood: wood pyrolysis gases give a very significant part of the heat of combustion of wood and are capable of without additional measures set fire to its finely structured carbon base. At the same time, pyrolysis gases can burn out very quickly - the furnace will not be able to take all the heat from them, it will experience a thermal shock that is by no means useful for it, and there will be nothing left for excess heat but to fly out into the pipe. The basis of the correct firebox wood stove- organize gradual gasification of firewood, at the same time preventing the temperature in the furnace from dropping below that required for tanning and complete combustion of carbon. The fact is that quite easily combustible amorphous carbon, when heated above 600 degrees, begins to turn into a modification of graphite. Ignition temperature of amorphous carbon approx. 1100 degrees (depending on its structure), and graphite - over 2000.

The following important facts:

• The rate of release of pyrolysis gases strongly depends on temperature - times.
• Two - graphitization of amorphous carbon is a very energy-intensive process. In an insufficiently heated furnace, a kind of looping at the pyrolysis stage is possible with the formation of a large amount of graphite soot, when the main part of the heat from the combustion of pyrolysis gases goes to the formation of graphite.
• Three - Maximum temperature in the furnace, at which the stove will receive and accumulate heat or immediately transfer it to the room, is 1200-1300 degrees.
• And the last thing: the energy release of coke oven gas in a conventional furnace furnace is not enough to ignite the amorphous carbon of coal. The temperature of its ignition should be created in the furnace of a coal furnace already when it is started (kindling).

Significant features have a furnace furnace in the bath. A significant part of the pyrolysis gases is carbon monoxide CO - carbon monoxide. Its impact on a person in the bath microclimate is greatly enhanced, because. CO is able to penetrate directly into the body through steamed skin. The concentration of CO in the air, at 20 degrees in the room causing headache and malaise, in the bath can be fatal. Concerning special meaning purchase the setting of the furnace run and its shutdown, see below.

Based on this, the correct firing of a solid fuel stove should be carried out as follows. way:

1. Kindling a wood stove should quickly heat the fuel before intensive gasification begins;
2. The kindling of a coal stove should warm up the initial load of fuel (see below) to the ignition temperature of amorphous carbon in at least one place. Then the coal itself will warm up, because. its energy release and thermal conductivity are quite large;
3. The course of a heating house stove is set by supplying air and adjusting the draft to the maximum thermal efficiency;
4. move sauna stove set for instant combustion of pyrolysis gases or (not very desirable) for their immediate exhaust into the chimney;
5. The house stove is stopped before the fuel burns out into ash or, if the fuel is of poor quality, before the coals go out;
6. The bath stove is stopped by extinguishing unburned coals immediately after the complete cessation of pyrolysis, see below, because carbon monoxide is also capable of releasing burning amorphous carbon.

Note: furnace furnace with peat gives a huge amount of acid radicals. From a house with a peat stove on the move it carries sour for tens and hundreds of meters. As a result, the harvesting of peat and its use for fuel are prohibited in many countries, and things are moving towards a complete ban everywhere. Therefore, further features of the furnace furnace with peat are not considered. If, however, heating the stove is a matter of vital importance, and there is nothing but peat, then they heat it in the same way as brown coal, see below.

How to heat the stove

In general, the solid fuel furnace firebox consists of the following, formally speaking, production cycles:

• Preparation of firewood / coal and preparation of their consumable load;
• Unloading the ash pan from the ash of the previous furnace;
• External inspection and current (preventive) cleaning of the fuel part;
• Starting the furnace on the working stroke and setting the furnace stroke;
• Additional loading of fuel until the consumable load is used up or until the furnace warms up to the required degree (furnace stoking);
• Furnace stop.

Here are the basic rules, the first - starting the furnace is not lighting kindling. The furnace is started when it is already on the move, and there are a lot of subtleties, see below. Second - do not shove the entire consumable load into the furnace at once. It will not be possible to set the furnace stroke to the maximum thermal efficiency, and you can immediately sink into graphitization with enhanced soot deposition. In order for the stove to give more heat, consuming less fuel, it needs to be heated.

Firewood

Preparing firewood for a firebox is much more difficult than preparing coal. Therefore, we will talk about the latter later, in the section on coal combustion. In the meantime, let's take care of the wood. They are being prepared for the firebox. way:

1. Timber is sawn into blocks and logs of the required height (length), see below;
2. Churaki are pricked into poles with a section close to the sector of a circle or a trapezoid with a height (along the section) of 8-10 cm;
3. Logs with a diameter of less than 7-8 cm are chopped into halves or quarters;
4. Log logs with a diameter of less than 4-5 cm are left unchopped;
5. They put the prepared fuel in a woodpile under a canopy or (better) in a woodshed (woodshed): poles - separately, half-logs and quarters - separately, logs - separately;
6. Air dried for at least 2 years. In the most extreme case, you can heat with one-year-old firewood;
7. During the heating season, firewood is transferred to the room and dried to chamber (room) dryness in the woodshed under the stove or in the woodshed next to it;
8. The woodcutter or woodcutter, instead of the firewood spent on the next firebox, is replenished with firewood from the woodpile until the stove, after kindling, goes on the move, see below.

Churaki and logs

The height of the churaks and the length of the logs for chopping firewood should be 3-7 cm higher (longer) than the length of the grate of the furnace, but also shorter than the length of the firebox. Simply put: ready-made firewood should be placed in the firebox, slightly overlapping the grate, but at the same time not resting on the walls of the firebox.

Firewood section shape

Sharp corners and edges of firewood will provide intensive gasification from kindling, immediately heating the resulting carbon to ignition. Further, as the firewood burns, the intensity of gas emission will drop to a value that allows you to set the optimal course of the stove. Half-logs and quarters are used for the initial load (laid for kindling, see below), and logs are used for the summer firebox hob and possibly also for bootstrap.

woodpile

In the woodpile, firewood not only dries to air dryness (less than 30% moisture). During the exposure time in the woodpile, water-soluble organic compounds wood (simply - juices containing proteins and sugars) are bituminized, forming combustible forms. The calorific value in the reference books is given specifically for firewood of at least 2 years of aging. Compared to them, annual ones lose up to 10-20% of potential heat, and autumn spring felling of the same year - up to 50% or more (!).

Woodcutter and firewood

Air-dry firewood (absolute humidity up to 25%) will give no more than 85% of its potential (reference) heat. In addition, the cost of heat from the combustion of pyrolysis gases for the evaporation of water will bring down the temperature in the furnace by 100-150 degrees: graphitization and soot deposition will increase. Therefore, the firewood before the firebox must be dried to room dryness (no more than 12% absolute humidity); the reference calorific value of firewood is given specifically for it.

It is better to dry firewood in a pelvis-drovnitsa, pos. 2 in the figure: moisture rises through the capillaries of the tree to the upper saw cuts and evaporates perfectly. Firewood from the outer captive on the floor in bulk reaches the oven condition in 7-10 days; firewood in a firewood shed under the stove on legs (pos. 1) or trenches (brick columns - supports of the stove) for 2-3 days, and firewood in a firewood shed standing 1-1.5 m in front of the stove - for 2 furnaces, those. during the day and from evening to morning.

Ash pan and ash

The ash pan is unloaded from the ashes just in front of the firebox, so that the sparks accidentally remaining in the ash do not cause a fire somewhere. By the way, according to the law, the owner and / or the stove stoker is responsible in this case. Before unloading (simply - taking out and shaking out) the ash pan is swept into it through the grate with a whisk the remains of ash and small rubbish from the furnace. Well, what about stove ash - excellent mineral fertilizer, you know this, of course.

Inspection of the condition of the oven

Perhaps you also know that up to 15 cubic meters are sucked in through a match-thick gap between the furnace door and its jamb in an hour. m of air. It will bring down the temperature in the furnace by 200-250 degrees. This in itself will reduce the heat transfer of the fuel load by 15-20%, and increased soot deposition over time by the same amount. Therefore, the condition of the furnace before starting it is necessary to pay the most special attention.

How the furnace is arranged from the point of view of the stoker, who may not be able to lay brick on brick, but who knows his business, is shown (schematically) on the left in the figure:

On the right, there is also given the purpose of furnace appliances and brief indications of the nature of routine work with them. If the stove is not running and the fuel has completely burned out, all doors and dampers must be tightly closed. The reason is dust. Burning and bituminizing, it forms a dense soot, which is very difficult to tear off without damaging the structure of the furnace; graphite soot is easily cleaned off with a golik (a broom made of twigs without leaves) on a long handle. Moreover, graphite particles, settling on bituminous soot, gradually turn into highly combustible finely dispersed amorphous carbon. Dust soot - the most common cause soot fires in the chimney. Therefore, during the inspection of the furnace, it is necessary to wipe the doors with their frames from dust, completely remove and wipe the shutters of the view and gate.

Note: about other devices and points of the regulations in fig. see later in the course of the presentation.

Traction and acceleration traffic jams

The process of preparing the furnace for the furnace necessarily includes checking the draft. It is most reliable to do this with a candle (pos. 1 in the figure below), when kindling and initial loading are already in the furnace. The furnace door is tightly closed, the blower is opened and a burning candle is brought in it. On the edge of the door, the flame should reach into the furnace without breaking. If there is no candle, it is not so reliable, but enough so that the waste does not immediately go, the draft is checked with a match with an empty firebox. The blower door is closed, the furnace door is slightly opened by 2 fingers and a burning match is brought to the slot with the head down, pos. 2. The flame must also reach into the furnace without breaking.

On a stagnant stove (for example, a country stove during the winter), a situation is possible when the firebox is empty, the channels and chimney are clean, but there is no draft. The same can happen if the oven is new, not dried before the first start. Then, firstly, they check the draft on the chimney cleaning door with the firebox and blower closed. There is - a steam plug sits in a damp oven. Not - airlock in the chimney. It is eliminated by burning a torch (perhaps 2 or 3) from a newspaper in the chimney through the cleaning door. It did not help - you need to inspect the deflector chimney whether damaged or clogged.

If the cork sits in the furnace, newspapers or, better, shavings are burned in small portions in the furnace with the blower, view and gate fully open. The steam plug is squeezed out of the oven with difficulty: it will be necessary to put a sheet of newspaper or a handful of shavings on a crumpled into a loose lump more than once. However, in small country stoves it often happens that both plugs are stuck, but not tight. In this case, you can drive the vapor-air plug out of the furnace immediately from the furnace, see the video:

Note: but actually the best way to get the cork out of the oven is to keep it out of the oven. It is very simple - when leaving for the winter, plug the openings of all the oven doors and the mouth of the chimney with rags or straw. The pipe is plugged so that the plug lies on it with a cap (mushroom) and is wrapped with a film together with the plug, otherwise it may fall into the chimney until spring.

Loading and kindling

The initial loading of firewood into the oven is most often combined with its kindling. In some cases (see below), the stove is first melted and firewood is placed on the kindling that has flared up. In any case, for the successful operation of the stove as part of the oven utensils, you need to have tongs for firewood and coal. Without them, it is very difficult to correct improperly settling firewood and load new ones for stoking, and without this, the stove’s progress during the fire will go astray all the time and part of the heat will be lost.

The main error in the initial loading of the furnace is that the torch and kindling are placed on top of the firewood stack, on the left in fig. below. The furnace will start up, but the primary pyrolysis gases, whose task is to “stir up” the operation of the furnace, will burn out in vain. Worse than nothing: because the system smoke channels(or cap) of the furnace is not yet warmed up to more than 200 degrees, intensive deposition of fire hazardous amorphous soot will occur in the structure of the furnace.

The second mistake is not knowing that the stove needs to be heated during the fire, or being too lazy to do it, they immediately give a full working load of firewood (in the center). The primary pyrolysis gases will cool down on the upper firewood before reaching the top of the furnace, and there will be no strong deposition of amorphous soot in the structure of the furnace, but until the furnace starts working, a lot of firewood will burn in vain. In the second half of the furnace time, the situation shown on the right in the figure will arise: the grate is clogged with unburned coals, the bluish color of which indicates the formation of carbon monoxide. In this case, it is impossible to bring the stove to the correct stroke with air and draft (see below): you need to thoroughly pierce the furnace and stir up the coals, immediately releasing a lot of heat into the chimney.

There are 2 cases when firewood is placed (with tongs!) on a flaming kindling (on the left in the next figure): if a cork was previously driven out of the furnace or if the furnace has to be heated with annual or annual firewood. Then kindling is best done from a not abundantly oiled rag (so that it does not drip) or a slightly oiled, loose lump of 5-6 newspaper sheets or from 3-4 handfuls of slightly oiled shavings. But what about PPB (Rules fire safety), completely prohibiting the kindling of flammable stoves? Not violated, see below.

Generally speaking, one or half of a newspaper sheet, a handful of shavings or 2-3 splinter will be enough to kindle properly prepared firewood in the oven. But put the kindling immediately, before loading firewood, under the middle of its future installation. If you then slip the kindling on the side (in the center in the figure), a situation will arise similar to the initial overload of the stove with firewood (see above), only the side ones will now act as the top ones.

The next situation: you need to kindle a metal stove with a cramped firebox and a small firebox door or a brick stove with deliberately damp firewood (for example, in a taiga hut). In a cramped firebox, it is impossible to immediately lay out the initial stack of firewood, and ordinary kindling will not warm up raw firewood before gasification begins. We also assume that there are no rags and no oil to impregnate it. In this case, wood (double) kindling is done: the thinnest and driest logs (for example, from the surrounding deadwood) are pricked (with a knife) into thin sector poles. A well is laid out from the poles for 1-3 tiers in a turn of tiers approx. 45 degrees (on the right in the figure). Newspaper, coniferous, “Christmas tree” hunting and tourist, etc. are placed in the well. kindling ignited by a single match. If the kindling is newspaper, the paper tail is brought out. The well is covered with very thin poles or a torch and - be sure, it will light up like a pretty one!

Flammable liquid and oil

Let's study carefully the PPB with applications. There is enough about spontaneous combustion of oils, but many edible and technical oils are not on the list of flammable oils. We turn to the specialized literature and in the end we find a clear difference between flammable and non-flammable people. The point is not at all that a drunken fool can pour a canister of gasoline into the stove. From a drunken fool, he will hang himself foolishly. But the fact is that flammable liquid vapors: a) have a flash point, possibly even lower than room temperature (at a certain concentration; b) are capable of detonation without additional technical measures. And oil vapors: a) flare up at temperatures above the maximum tolerable by a person; b) either do not detonate at all, or it is very difficult to make them detonate. Simply put: flammable liquid vapors in an oven can explode and blow it apart; no oil vapor. But oil vapors burn, developing high temperature and giving off a lot of heat. Therefore, starting the stove from oiled kindling (but so that it does not drip or flow from it!) Will not be a formal violation of the PPB.

Note: among other things, furnaces, incl. charcoal, they also start well from kindling soaked in butter, margarine, some kind of spread, which are certainly not flammable. The ancient Chinese (they were the first to use coal) and the Greeks (charcoal) melted coal stoves with cow, buffalo and barley butter. Curiously, both of them, by no means fools, considered butter unsuitable for food.

Firewood: stacking and firebox

Proper stacking of firewood for the initial load of the stove is the most important condition for its economy. If the first firewood was stacked incorrectly, the stove will have to be put into operation for almost the entire time of the firebox (1.5-2 hours). During this time, a lot useful heat will fly out into the pipe or be converted into soot and soot. The basic rule for laying the first firewood in the firebox is that flames should immediately appear above them already from kindling. Then the primary pyrolysis gases will do their useful work without interference. To do this, firewood is laid in a layer:

• 2 or more year old firewood, dried in the room - up to 30 cm.
• annual dried or fully aged under-dried - up to 20 cm.
• annual and wet - up to 15 cm.

“Before” means that at least 15-20 cm should remain above the stacking of firewood to the vault of the firebox free space. This is necessary for the complete combustion of pyrolysis gases and the free exit of water vapor into the chimney.

Conditioned firewood is placed in the firebox, as it is stacked in a woodpile: corner to corner, on the left in fig. Do not worry, enough air will pass through the gaps between the logs. And along them, the tongues of the primary pyrolysis flame will immediately stretch high up, providing rapid gasification of the wood immediately throughout the mass. It is not necessary to lay the first log of the boot load obliquely, as is sometimes advised - it will be much more difficult to set the furnace stroke. An oblique log is placed when reloading fuel, see below.

Underexposed and too large firewood is stacked in a log house, in the center. A log house, as a way of laying firewood, is not a well. The middle of the wood well is wide and free, and in the tiers of the log house, the gaps between the logs are 2-3 times less than their thickness. If the substandard firewood is also dampish, then the first tier of laying is laid over the kindling for them with a well, and the next (e) - with a log house. Finally, in a stove with a close firebox, and especially in a sauna stove (see also below), the entire stack is laid out similarly to wood kindling (on the right in the figure), only logs for it can be taken larger, according to the firebox of the stove.

Firebox, control and firebox

After the stove is kindled, the gate is half-covered, the blower door is covered to a gap of 2-3 fingers, and the furnace door is tightly closed. A correctly launched furnace 10-14 minutes after closing the furnace door itself enters the working stroke. Traditionally, it is controlled by the temperature of the forehead of the stove (it should start to heat up) and the noise: all sound sources are turned off (silenced) in the room and the noise of the stove is listened to, holding the ear 5-10 cm from its forehead. Rustles - went on the move. It is muffled, like in a tank - there is not enough air, you need to check if the firewood has gone out and open the blower a little. After 5-10 minutes, repeat the control - it did not rustle, we slightly open the gate. If the stove is buzzing, in 3-4 doses, after 2-3 minutes each, we slightly open the gate until it rustles. The damper is open by 3/4 or more, but there is still no rustling - we slightly open the blower and - see before.

How to make a peeper

move metal furnace is checked and set before reloading the fuel, so the initial load should be as low as possible. A brick oven can be set to the correct course immediately after it is kindled, guided only by the color and type of flame. If the firebox door is on glass, there is no problem. But, if the door is deaf, then it is not necessary to open it slightly to control the beginning of the firebox - the air inflow will knock down the still weak operation of the furnace and you will see in the firebox something completely different from what it actually was. You can open the furnace to control and eliminate gross violations of the furnace, see below.

Furnace doors are often made from the so-called. hypereutectic cast iron - very hard, heat-resistant, heat-resistant, little subject to thermal deformation, but extremely brittle and difficult to machine. However, it is possible to make a peeper (peeper) in the blind door of the furnace for visual control of the furnace progress if there are:

• A round (obligatory!) piece of heat-resistant glass 4-6 mm thick and up to 7 cm in diameter, but not more than half the height of the furnace door.
• Freely adjustable circular drill (centrobor) with a victorious cutter.
• Pobeditovy twist drill for drilling a pioneer hole for the centrifugal guide.
• Desktop drilling machine.
• Blowtorch, gas or liquid burner (diesel, kerosene, mining).

How to drill a stepped hole under the glass of a peeper in a cast-iron door is shown in fig. Two indispensable conditions so that the door does not crack during processing or afterwards: only with a drill with a cushion of soft wood(pine, for example), and the center of the hole must coincide with the geometric center of the door. Then its thermal focus will remain where it was, and the door will not “feel” the peepers.

The glass in the nest is fixed with a split ring made of elastic steel wire. To fix it, the finished door is taken out (or into a fireproof room), placed on a fireproof lining face up and thoroughly heated with a flame. The steel will weld and firmly cling to the cast iron, but then it will be possible to pick off the ring to replace the glass.

Stroke violations

Now let's see how the furnace firebox goes and "pull up" the air with draft to the optimum. In general, the white color of the flame indicates the combustion of pyrolysis gases or an excess of oxygen, yellow indicates the complete combustion of fuel and optimal temperature in the furnace, red - about incomplete combustion of fuel due to lack of air or traction, red - about the consumption of heat of combustion of pyrolysis gases for graphitization and soot deposition, and blue or light blue - about the release and partial combustion of carbon monoxide.

There are possible traces here. cases (see fig.):

Additional loading of fuel (fueling)

The first rule of reloading the furnace is not to open furnace door more than 15-20 s. Otherwise, the oven will go astray. Until you expose it again, a lot of heat will be lost. If, for example, during this time it was not possible to correct the stacking of firewood (see below), then you need to close the firebox for 2-3 minutes, and only then open it again. From here follows the second rule: to add firewood to the firebox in layers (in order). So you can load the entire balance of the consumable load at once, but at least the same 15-20 cm of free space should remain under the arch of the firebox.

The procedure for adding fuel to the furnace on the go is as follows:

• After 20-30 minutes after starting the furnace, we check whether it has reached full speed. From a metal furnace should puff heat (temperature outer surface- not lower than 300 degrees. On the forehead of a brick at full speed, it is difficult to hold a strained calloused palm for a short time (temperature - approx. 70 degrees).
• We check the subsidence and burn-out of the wood-burning stack: fuel can be reloaded if the cut logs are almost completely charred, pos. 1 in fig.
• If the wood stack settles loosely or spreads, we correct it by carefully prying and shifting the logs with the heel of the poker, pos. 2.
• Firewood correctly loaded into the oven settles, burning out, densely, pos. 3. Then it is better to wait until there is room in the furnace for the entire balance of the consumable load, because. each additional load knocks down the oven a little.
• To reload firewood, one log is laid obliquely with tongs, the firebox is closed and waited for 2-3 minutes.
• Additional loading of firewood is carried out when the slanting log flares up, pos. 4. Thus, the firebox will be divided in height into 2 parts: the lower one will remain on the working stroke, and the upper one will start almost instantly in a hot firebox. Heat loss will be minimal.
• After 5-10 minutes after reloading, the furnace progress is checked and, possibly, it is set, see above.

Note: the volume of fuel consumption in a brick oven is determined on the basis that it should be heated no more than 3 times a day for no more than 2 hours.

Furnace shutdown

When stopping the furnace, it is important, first, to prevent the release of waste into the room. The second is to prevent the brick and cast iron stove from releasing the accumulated heat into the chimney. Steel in this respect is not critical: its own heat capacity is negligible compared to the heat of combustion of the consumable load.

The sign of the formation of carbon monoxide is very clear: it is either blue flames, or a bluish coating of ash on coals, see fig. The latter is also a blue flame, only very low and all over the surface.

In order to avoid heat loss, it is not necessary to rake the coals into a pile and burn out the remaining 2-3 logs on them, to the left of the trail. rice. They will give much less heat than will be blown into the chimney from a heated furnace by draft. Leave this firewood for the next firebox.

To properly stop the furnace, the coals are smashed with a poker around the entire hearth of the furnace. The blower is fully opened, and the gate is closed. The damper is not a view, in its damper there is either a cutout or a hole, or, if the damper is rotary, a gap between the damper and the frame, providing minimal traction. By the way, the rotary gate is better in terms of safety: you cannot confuse it with a view.

Having given a maximum of air and a minimum of thrust, they wait until the blue lights disappear on the coals. If the firewood is conditioned, it will take no more than 10 minutes, and in the meantime the coals will burn to ash. In the coals of substandard fuel, yellow sparks may remain (on the right in the figure): there are still combustion centers; if you close the view, it will go to waste. The red color of substandard coals is most likely not combustion, but the color of smoldering hot carbon. There is little heat from it, and such coals can smolder to ash for hours. Therefore, substandard coals that have not burned out in 10-15 minutes are collected with a scoop and extinguished in a bucket of water. After making sure that nothing is burning or smoldering in the furnace, they close the view, the firebox, and the blower.

Note: in the heil of furnaces of bell-type furnaces, the so-called. a gas view that does not allow the oven to cool quickly. Therefore, any coals can be allowed to smolder to ash in them. But then you still need to close the view - when the cap cools down a bit, the gas view will crawl up from the furnace and the draft will pull again.

Features of the furnace of other furnaces

Separate types of furnaces have their own characteristics of the firebox. Firstly, simple Dutch women, especially summer cottages, often build without a gate. There's nothing you can do about it - the furnace will have to be set only with air and minimum flow fuel is not always available. Secondly, furnaces with a developed channel system (for example, a Swede) respond to draft and air regulation for 5 minutes or more. Therefore, it is necessary to expose their course in stages and carefully. It is best to heat such stoves with the same type of conditioned fuel. Then, once setting the move, you need to remember the position of the gate with the blower door and immediately put them on the working stroke at the next firebox.

Russian

In principle, it is impossible to put a gate in a Russian stove, and there is no need for it there: the design of the Russian stove is such that the draft and air in it adjust automatically to each other. Setting the course of the Russian stove is simple: we rake the coals to the sides, compact (possibly) the stack of firewood, and the stove will do the rest. The only thing is that firewood cannot be loaded into a Russian stove with a hut (tent): a strong flame will beat into the arch of the hearth, pos. 1 in the figure:

In addition to increased fuel consumption, this is also bad because the vault and stove bench overheat, which can cause the stove to fail. Firewood is loaded into a Russian stove with a log house, pos. 2: the flame licks the arch, and the whole log house can be gently pushed back with a pair of logs, which is necessary for cooking some traditional dishes Russian cuisine.

Note: unfortunately, such a wonderful design as the Russian stove, at present, fully retains only its culinary significance - it is not adapted to the conditions modern life. How to heat a Russian oven for heating and cooking in the traditional way, see the video below.

Video: Russian stove furnace in the traditional way

bathhouse

Profitability for a sauna stove is not the main thing, but in no case should it give waste. Therefore, firstly, all manipulations with the blower and damper of the sauna stove are carried out in such a way that there is no lack of air in the furnace. If, for example, you need to muffle the stove, then first cover the gate, and then the blower. It is necessary to disperse - first open the blower, and then the gate, etc. The second is that the coals from the sauna stove are scooped out with a scoop and extinguished in a bucket of water as soon as the blue carbon monoxide flame disappears, regardless of the type of fuel. For more information on how to heat a sauna stove, see the following. plot.

Video: the correct furnace furnace in the bath

coal firebox

The peculiarity of coal as furnace fuel is that its gasification begins at a temperature significantly higher than that of wood, and when heated to less than 800-900 degrees, it proceeds sluggishly. But, if the coal is quickly heated to 900-1000 degrees, it is gasified quickly and violently, developing a high temperature in the furnace. Therefore, it is more difficult to set fire to coal, and when ignited, it gives more thermal stress to the stove than firewood.

Also, the amorphous carbon of coal releases much more heat per unit mass due to its greater density. Since the heat capacity of the kiln is limited, and the thermal time constant of the brick kiln is large (these are the same 1.5-2 hours of furnace time), the loading of coal into the brick kiln should be given less, and the number of furnaces per day should be increased to 3-4.

It is impossible to heat a Russian stove with coal: it is adapted only to firewood. Very carefully, you need to heat Swedish stoves, Dutch stoves and other channel stoves with 3 or more revolutions with coal. The channel furnace has a great resistance to the flow of gases, and in weather conditions that reduce draft (wet off-season, strong wind opposite to the prevailing direction, etc.) there may not be enough air for burning coal without waste even with a fully open blower and gate. The oven of a Swedish stove will not work properly when fired with coal: it should not be covered by an excessively hot flame.

Young geologically fossilized lignite coal, which retains a woody structure (item 1 in the figure), is unsuitable for furnaces: it immediately crumbles into dust, completely clogging the grate. By the way, gentlemen rewriters-uniquelists, who came up with this - lingit? There is no such thing. Lignite is so named because it retains the structure of the mechanical basis of wood - lignin.

Brilliant black anthracite, the oldest of fossil coals (pos. 1a), emits a lot of heat, rapidly, but briefly gasifies and is difficult to ignite. Anthracite can be used to heat cast-iron and heat-resistant steel stoves, in the certificate for which anthracite is indicated as a regular type of fuel. Occasionally - bell-type and channel furnaces no more than 2 turns with a fireclay firebox. Loading into the furnace - a layer of 15-20 cm.

Brown coal (pos. 2) can fire any stove, but it is an extremely unenvironmentally friendly fuel. The extraction of brown coal in the world is steadily declining. Keep brown coal in large quantities(more than 10-15 kg) is impossible: it ignites spontaneously even without wetting. Ordinary hard coal (grey, pos. 3) is certainly suitable for firing cast iron stoves and brick with fireclay firebox. hard coal from separate deposits it is possible to heat brick ovens without chamotte. Loading - with a layer of 12-18 cm. Thinner - will not flare up; thicker - the upper pieces are gasified to no avail.

kindling coal

Coal can be set on fire with an ordinary torch or a newspaper, but up to 30-40% of its calorific value will be lost in the furnace. For coal stoves, special lighters are produced (and made independently), giving a sheaf of strong flame, immediately warming up the load to 1000-1100 degrees. But the same effect will give oil vapor from oiled kindling, see above. Only you need more of it than for a tree: a rag with a size of a man's T-shirt or 5-6 newspaper sheets. The author more than once, while on business trips in the wilderness, had to start an old coal-fired titanium water heater with the help of newspapers and watery "Peasant" oil of that time. It enters the titanium furnace with half a shovel of coal, and this was enough for 3-4 people to wash after work. There is only one condition: it is necessary to load sifted coal for such kindling, without dust, so that the gaps between the pieces are free. You can learn more about how to heat the stove with sifted coal from the video

Video: furnace furnace with sifted coal

From coal dust mixed with water, you can fashion and dry fuel cakes, pos. 4 in fig. higher. However, please note: firstly, coal dust strong allergen and a carcinogen. Secondly, it ignites spontaneously and is explosive. Rudolf Diesel originally designed his internal combustion engine for coal dust (there was no oil of his own in Germany at that time), but it was the ease of its detonation that forced him to switch to rapeseed oil, and diesel fuel was invented only later.

How to burn coal safely

The main task when burning a furnace with coal is to avoid waste. In coal furnaces and boilers, this is ensured by design. If a wood-burning stove is heated with coal, then, setting its course, you must also monitor the state of the burning mass.

Burning coals give little visible flame. When burning a stove with coal, more air must be given than for firewood with the same draft. And everything together is regulated so that the upper pieces of the burning mass do not seem to be translucent through, on the left in fig. If all the coal seems to be luminous (on the right), then its complete gasification will end quickly, there may not be enough air for the complete combustion of carbon and waste will go.

But in general, the best use of coal in a wood-burning stove is to put it on summer fireboxes for cooking. Firewood for the winter will be saved, and the entire calorific value of fossil coal is still fully realized only in heating appliances designed specifically for it.

In Russia, people heated their houses with a stove. Technology has been perfected over many generations. Even in the modern world, residents of private houses and summer cottages do not refuse to heat the room with firewood. It is not uncommon for people to use the stove the old fashioned way to heat the bathhouse. Regardless of the purpose, it is necessary to carry out ignition, taking into account all the features. To do this, consider the main nuances that will help you kindle a potbelly stove with firewood.

Regular wood stove maintenance

1. It is important to monitor the condition of the furnace, this directly affects the heat loss of the furnace. A common reason is that sometimes there is a small gap between the combustion chamber flap and the brick arch of the wall, in which case the coefficient useful action reduced by 12%.
2. In such situations, the stove draws in a small stream of cold air, which contributes to the escape of heat energy through the chimney. If the combustion chamber is not equipped with a door, the efficiency of the melted furnace drops by 40-45%. As a result, consumables, namely firewood, increase. In order for the coefficient of performance (COP) of the brick oven to remain maximum, annual maintenance must be carried out.
3. Examine the heating device. If you find obvious cracks and gaps, eliminate them as efficiently as possible. The destruction of stone materials occurs due to the difference in air humidity and temperature changes. Try to pay attention to the technical part in warm weather.
4. It is worth taking into service that you need to clean the chimney 2-3 times a year. The main cause of chimney pollution is the soot released from burnt wood. Substance settles dense layer on the walls of the device. The result is the same - the oven does not work properly. The chamber decreases due to soot, the heat transfer efficiency drops by 25%. Do not forget to thoroughly clean the grate and chamber from ash and soot before each heating of the furnace.
5. If not cleaned, required amount air will not enter the furnace. As a result, the firewood will not burn properly. If you are indifferent to the fate of your furnace, you can not bother about its maintenance. The firebox will work in any case, only the efficiency will drop significantly. You will spend more time lighting firewood.

What wood is better to use

1. Obviously, the main condition is the dryness of the logs. The best factor quality raw material is its premature harvesting. The firewood used for the furnace is split in advance of the process itself (from 1 year or more).
2. The main condition for the storage of finished raw materials is an equipped dry place. The premises must be protected from weather conditions. Perfect size firewood is considered to be split into four equal parts of a log.
3. Each piece is about 11 cm in diameter and 40 cm long. You can also rely on personal preference. Do not forget about humidity, this indicator is important. Your health directly depends on undried firewood properly.
4. Condensation begins to be released from the wood, which pollutes all composite furnaces. Heat transfer deteriorates due to the formation of moisture on the walls of the device. It should also be borne in mind that raw wood contains an enzyme that, when evaporated, is converted into acid. She starts eating everything.
5. It is best to use firewood with a higher density per 1 m³. The duration of combustion of raw materials and its heat transfer directly depend on these indicators. For example, birch has a density index (1.0), and oak (0.75). Consequently, the latter type of wood will require less to ignite the stove.

Trial ignition of the furnace after construction

1. To check the quality of a newly built furnace, a trial ignition should be carried out in the presence of a specialist. Thus, after the first warm-up of the device, it will be able to identify obvious flaws. It is necessary to carry out the procedure after the masonry has completely dried. Further, the furnace is fired for 3-4 days with a normal amount of firewood.
2. If the stove is built in good faith, you will not see smoke in the room. After warming up, inspect and feel the entire accessible surface. A good oven gives off heat evenly, there should not be too hot places or, conversely, cool ones. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the new building cools down slowly. It should not quickly waste the acquired heat.
3. The baker, in turn, must carefully examine appearance the buildings. Assess the quality of the bonding of bricks, the thickness of the seams and the evenness of the walls. The deviation of the vertical masonry should not exceed 2 mm. by 1 m. height. Also, the specialist must examine the quality of the internal dressing, the strength of the shutters and the correct construction of the arch of the firebox.
4. After the furnace has completely warmed up and cooled down inside the furnace, the size and nature of the cracks are assessed. An external examination may not reveal this. To experience the density of masonry and valves to the fullest, you need to burn any dense material, soaked in solar oil.
5. Such a move will contribute to the release of a large amount of black thick smoke, which will test the furnace. At the same time, there should not be a hint of smell in the room, especially Kumar. If problems are identified, repair all cracks as efficiently as possible, and then rub them. If you take care of the oven properly and carry out annual maintenance, it will last for decades.

1. Before starting heating, clean the ash compartment and the grate from the remains of burning. Such a move will allow air to circulate better, as a result of which the firewood will burn much better. It is important that oxygen enters the combustion chamber evenly.
2. After preparation, you can start laying firewood, the procedure is carried out in compliance with certain features. The main difficulty lies in the correct location of the logs. After ignition, all firewood should burn out completely so that you do not overpay for fuel once again.
3. At correct styling logs will burn well, providing the necessary release of thermal energy. This feature, in turn, will allow you to heat the entire room in 1-2 hours. There are several ways of laying - cellular and in-line.
4. To maintain the combustion process between logs, it is necessary to maintain an interval of about 1 cm. In such a simple way, you will allow air to circulate around the firewood, so they will burn evenly. Pay attention to the height of the formed stack of logs. A distance of about 20 cm from the chamber ceiling must be observed.
5. By following this recommendation, you will ensure good combustion, the flame will not move into the chimney. In ignition of the furnace, the main thing is to ensure the smoldering of logs in the furnace. From this compartment thermal energy will be carried throughout the structure, providing the desired result.
6. After placing firewood in a cage or nearby, pay attention to the bottom of the stack. On the floor between the logs, place dry wood chips or old newspaper, put the raw materials strictly in the center under the stack. Later, you will set fire to firewood at the expense of auxiliary elements.
7. Never use combustible materials such as diesel fuel, petrol or kerosene. A properly ignited stove spreads a flame in the furnace, which spreads evenly from all sides of the fire. Make a bookmark in such a way that the firewood is located in the center or closer to the door. No need to send logs to the far wall.

Adjusting the operation of the furnace after ignition

1. Like any other design, a wood-burning stove has a “control panel”. The action levers help to control the operation of the heating system, as well as ensure uniform heating and maintenance of ignition.
2. The design includes the door of the combustion chamber and the blower (2 wings in total), the chimney damper, the view of the furnace and the chimney (single design).
3. Blower doors and chambers are designed to regulate the supply of oxygen and its circulation inside the furnace. A view and a valve can control the draft.
4. To properly ignite the stove, open the combustion chamber door, the view and the valve. But close the blower door. When the logs are hot and begin to fully burn, close the firebox door, open the blower.
5. If you control the draft, the wood will start to burn properly. In the end, you will not waste your energy and money in vain. To determine if a fuel is burning correctly, it is important to consider the characteristics of the flame.
6. White color and the presence of unpleasant noise in the outlet structure indicate a strong draft of the furnace. It must be adjusted by slightly covering the blower sash.
7. A red tint indicates a strong burning. You may go outside and find a plume of dark smoke billowing from the chimney. This outcome indicates that the traction is insufficient. Open the blower.
8. We can assume that the stove is kindled correctly if you see a yellow-orange fire. In this case, you do not need to close or open anything, heat the room to the required temperature.
9. Many people have the problem that the flame has no color at all because it has gone out. This feature indicates a large accumulation of carbon monoxide in the furnace. It appears due to the use of undried firewood.
10. You can not drown a potbelly stove with raw logs. However, if this has already happened, open the valve and the view, but completely clog the firebox door. Wait a quarter of an hour for the carbon monoxide to evaporate. Slightly open the flaps and the combustion chamber door.

1. Monitor the condition of the logs. If you spot burnt embers, pick them up with a poker and move them to the center of the pile. Place more burning firewood around, slightly cover the blower or valve.
2. Engage in lighting the stove only during the daytime. Never heat a potbelly stove at night. A large amount of allocated carbon dioxide often leads to disastrous consequences.
3. It is necessary to constantly look after the heating device. It is not necessary to move the firewood until it is at least 50% burnt.

If you did not use a potbelly stove long time, in the process of ignition, it will begin to smoke heavily. To eliminate an unpleasant feature, first inflame a small part of dry wood chips, paper or knots in the firebox. In this simple way, you warm up the chimney. Next, gradually put firewood with a diameter of about 12 cm into the existing fire.

Video: how to properly heat the stove

Owners of a stove or potbelly stove should have a supply of dry firewood suitable for ignition at any time. It is necessary to harvest raw materials for future kindling a whole year before use. Buy wood this winter for next winter, next winter for next. All this time, the poles should be stored in a woodpile, protected from precipitation and blown by the wind.

But if you haven’t prepared, and you need to kindle the stove right now, don’t be discouraged, this can also be done with raw firewood. The process will take longer and take more attention. But it's such a small thing, isn't it?

There are two ways to heat the oven "damp". The first assumes that you have a small amount of dry firewood - left over from a previous purchase or you dried it.

If there is no opportunity to prepare dry logs at all, let's melt the potbelly stove with wet wood. This is the second way, we will consider it.

Procedure for kindling

Thinly prick raw dies, split and make a splinter.

Fold the wood chips with a hut, put the small ones from the bottom inside, and put the larger ones on top.

Keep the stove blower open to the maximum.

For the first 10 minutes, heat the stove with a torch, when it warms up, start adding thin firewood. So, melt for another 10-15 minutes, try to maintain an even flame. As soon as enough coals appear, start laying small poles, I put two at the edges and one in the middle.

When the "pioneers" begin to light up, carefully place new ones, at some distance from each other. Cover the blower and watch the reaction of the fire. If it does not go out, the blower can be left covered.

When the stove is heated and gives a strong, even heat that it is impossible to raise a hand, you can put the largest logs and close the blower.

How to speed up kindling on damp wood?

You can melt raw logs without additional funds if you follow the instructions above. But if you use a couple of tricks, the process will go even more fun.

I do not risk using diesel fuel, kerosene or other highly flammable substances to stimulate kindling. I will kindle firewood, but what else will I kindle? There is safe methods which work great.

It burns well and does not cause a fire vegetable oil. I water the poles with it before I kindle it, 1-2 tablespoons of oil doubles the ignition rate of damp firewood.

If the house has coarse salt, pour it well over the logs before lighting and wait 10 minutes. Salt provokes the release of moisture from the wood, and the stove will flare up faster and stronger.

It is useful to throw an empty container from vegetable oil into the vent, after pouring the contents into some kind of dish. Oil covers thin layer the inside of the bottle, and the plastic will burn well and for a long time, irrigating the wood.

You can put paper or cardboard into the oil container, so you can keep the fire going even longer.

Prevention

A little dried firewood will speed up the process of kindling "on wet". If you constantly live in the house, periodically bring a little bit of poles inside, and lay them out in a dry and warm place so that they dry out faster. I have an oil heater on which I dry finely chopped dies in small batches.

When the potbelly stove has flared up and warmed up, put logs on top of it to put them in the firebox. On red-hot or hot metal, the poles dry quickly and lie comfortably at hand. Most importantly, do not leave wood on the stove unattended.

It does not hurt to have a place where you would store useful spares. For example, empty containers from sunflower oil, toilet paper sleeves, paper bags and food packaging. When you urgently need to kindle the stove with raw wood, you will remember your thriftiness with a kind word. In addition, it is practical recycling.

In conclusion

At first, you will have to work over the stove, spend a lot of time around it. But you will melt wet logs and be able to dry a new batch for the next ignition.

The main thing to remember when kindling "damp": do not let the fire noticeably weaken, otherwise the stove may not have enough heat and everything will go out. Use my advice, and you will definitely melt the stove even with very damp firewood!

Since ancient times, a wood-burning stove has been, perhaps, and remains the main source of heat in some corners of our vast country deprived of civilization. With the transition to coal heating, natural gas and electricity, new types of modern heating appliances. But furnaces are in demand, their active operation continues.

Conditions for keeping warm when using stoves

Modern man meets a wood-burning stove in his country house, personal plot and in the bath. How to properly fire up the oven? What do you need to know about fuel? How to keep warm? By answering these questions, it will become clear that using the oven is not so difficult.

Just gotta stick with certain rules use and operation, observing them, the oven will last a long time:

• constantly maintain the furnace in working order;
• raw materials for kindling must be dry;
• to exclude the appearance of condensate during the heating of the furnace.

To keep in working order several conditions must be met: every year an inspection and Maintenance most convenient in summer. Pay close attention to the appearance of new cracks inside the chimneys and take measures to eliminate them. From two to three times during the heating season, clean the chimney and chimney from soot. Eliminate the presence of cracks in the brickwork of the walls. When burning fuel, smoke is formed, which settles on the walls and chimneys in the form of soot. big layer soot reduces the heat transfer of the stove, and requires an unreasonably large consumption of firewood. Heat is lost - when the furnace is opened with the door open, when cracks appear in the walls of the furnace around valves and other furnace appliances, when the integrity of the internal furnace partitions is violated, when a large amount of air enters through the blower.

The best fuel is dry fuel. It is advisable to start harvesting firewood in the spring-summer period, when there is a large margin of time for drying wood. The harvested wood should be sawn into small blocks so that they enter the furnace furnace. Then split the logs into logs (approximately up to 8-10 cm across). It is better to store them in a "woodshed" (barn) or under a canopy. Firewood is placed in a neat woodpile. This method of storing fuel will ensure complete drying of the wood, saving space and the ability to easily take firewood to kindle the stove. It is irrational to heat the stove with wet wood. Firstly, it is impossible to heat the stove to the required temperature, secondly, damp firewood does not burn well, and thirdly, when wet firewood is burned, steam is formed, settling on the walls of the stove in the form of condensate. An "explosive" mixture of soot and condensate leads to damage brickwork chimneys. When harvesting firewood, it is necessary to pay attention to the types of wood, because. different types When burning, wood emits an unequal amount of heat. The most common species in the middle lane are: birch, spruce, pine, aspen. Preference should be given to harvesting birch, since the heat transfer coefficient is much higher than that of spruce species.

Algorithm of actions when kindling the furnace

- Before each kindling with a poker, clean the lower grate from accumulated ash. Clogged with ash grates impede the access of oxygen, which affects the combustion process.

- Open the shutters, valve, view and the door of the furnace furnace.

- Sometimes when kindling the stove starts to smoke. So, the cooled chimney must be warmed up warm air. To do this, kindle a torch, shavings or paper.

- When kindling, do not use flammable combustible materials in order to avoid a fire.

- Before you start laying dry firewood in the firebox, for kindling, you should cut a thin torch (from spruce wood) with a knife, you can use paper, thin cardboard (cardboard cells from under egg packaging burn very well), chips or birch bark. Lay this material in the form of a slide, and start laying thin logs on top.

- Firewood is stacked in the form of a cage or in rows. Logs must be placed next to furnace door on the grate. The firebox should not be hammered to the top so that the particles
the fuel was burned before entering the chimney. This will ensure uniform ignition from all sides and quickly warm up the stove.

- When the logs flare up, close the firebox of the furnace with a door, and open the blower. With a tightly closed firebox, the stove warms up faster, the heat lasts longer.

- With such stove appliances as a view, latches, a blower door, the flame of burning firewood is regulated, covering or, if necessary, slightly opening. It is necessary to monitor their serviceability and timely repair or replace them completely.

Definition of thrust. The draft in the furnace is determined by the color of the flame. The white color of the flame, accompanied by a hum, shows that the thrust is very strong. Covering the blower door and dampers reduces air infiltration into the oven. A golden yellow color indicates that the traction is normal. A red flame with dark streaks indicates poor draft. Due to weak draft, smoke can go inside the building and cause smoke. Open the dampers and the blower door, thereby increasing the flow of air into the furnace.

- In case of severe burnout, periodically move the logs with a poker to remove voids through which cold air can enter.

- While stirring the coals and firebrands with a poker, move them to the center of the furnace. This will reduce the draft and help keep you warm.

- The appearance of flames on the coals of blue color is a sure sign of carbon monoxide emission. Coals should be raked closer to the door. Close the firebox tightly, and do not close the pipe valve for about ten more minutes to ensure the full release of carbon monoxide.

- As soon as the blue light disappears on the embers, you should close all the valves, close the pipe view. This will keep you warm for a long time.

— Carbon monoxide dangerous, poisoning them can lead to death. Therefore, the furnace should be heated during the daytime.

It takes about an hour to two hours for the oven to heat up properly. Compliance with these simple rules when burning a wood-burning stove will help to keep warm for a long time and heat the room well.

Video of the correct firing of the stove with wood

From time to time we are faced with a situation where we have only raw firewood at our disposal, and it is necessary to kindle a stove or light a fire. What should be done in such a situation, how to kindle raw firewood in a stove, how to make a normal fire from such raw materials, let's figure it out together.

Real live fire in the furnace

Step-by-step instruction

Sooner or later, each of us faces the problem of wet firewood, and situations can be very different. For example, when you need to make a fire in nature to keep warm, cook fish soup, barbecue, baked potatoes, or when you need to heat the house, prepare a bathhouse to take a steam bath and wash. Wet firewood is an order of magnitude more difficult to kindle, but with the proper approach, this task can be completely coped with. Consider at the same time how to heat the stove with raw wood and how to kindle a fire in nature from them.

To implement a simple plan for kindling firewood, we need:

• good axe, sharp knife;
• wet firewood;
• fine salt;
• a stack of ordinary newspapers;
• lighter or matches.

First of all, we need to chop some of the firewood into small pieces, chips. Small pieces of wood will quickly dry out and catch fire, while large logs, on the contrary, will negatively affect our fire. good ax and a sharp knife will allow you to cut quickly.

Winter version of a small fire

Note that inside the firewood may well be dry, so we make chips and torches from the middle part of the logs. If we are dealing with, then we remove the birch bark from the blanks. On logs, birch bark will not be able to dry out and catch fire immediately, but separately, on the contrary, it will easily ignite and give the necessary fire.

We collect a small hut from the resulting chips, put small torches in the base, close them with larger chips. It is important that there is room for air inside, as well as that air masses freely circulated inside and outside our facility.

We build a hut on a pedestal from newspapers, we additionally cover chips with newspapers from all sides. When laying newspapers inside, you should crumple them, give some volume. If there is birch bark, also lay it deep into the hut. Sprinkle the top with fine salt. Being a good adsorbent, salt will draw some of the moisture out of the chips.

Carrying out preparatory activities before lighting a fire

Note that it is very easy to assemble such a structure in a brick-lined stove and kindle it. At least it is more convenient and better to melt such a furnace than to work with a shapeless gray hole. For many owners of stoves, the memories of the difficulties that they overcame at the construction stage, when they built the stove, lined it with bricks, and lined it, are still fresh. All the efforts of that time were not in vain, now in the firebox you can quickly and easily light a fire even from damp firewood.

The preparatory measures have been taken, it's time to set fire to our original design. At the same time, try to pay attention to whether the damp wood-burning hut from the chips itself catches fire from the newspapers. If the first time it was not possible to kindle a fire, the procedure should be repeated. At the same time, dried chips will already flare up better. If the fire has seized, it's time to put a couple of larger logs. This should be done so as not to block the access of air to the fire.

If we are dealing with a stove, then after receiving the fire, open the hood and close the doors to the room itself. When kindling a fire in nature, you can blow it a little, using any suitable object as a fan. For the first half an hour, the fire should be maintained using only thin chips and logs.

When the fire becomes more confident, you can add more firewood. Try not to push too much, don't clutter up the flame, don't cut off the air (oxygen) access to the fire. Large logs can be laid only when you already have enough good coals. If you had to heat the stove with raw wood, then watch the intensity of the fire, do not let it weaken much, because if there is not enough heat for new raw logs, then everything can simply go out. Building a fire takes patience, especially when you're dealing with raw fuel.

Related oven decorative elements

In order not to think about whether it is possible to heat the stove with raw wood, do the preparatory work, bring some firewood home and dry it near the stove for the future. Dry firewood stacked near the stove and ready for use will allow you not to think about such problems in the future. In addition, a very original decorative item for the home can turn out from a stack of firewood.

Subtleties and nuances

• Worst of all, if you have . This type of wood emits a small amount of heat, so aspen firewood will be very difficult to kindle. The logs will smolder slowly, giving off very little heat.
• A good option for quickly kindling raw logs would be birch or spruce. Despite the fact that these tree species emit a lot of soot and soot when burned, they are optimal for quick kindling. Fire catches on chips and birch bark in just a matter of seconds.

Wet firewood ready for splitting

• The original method of quick drying of wood was invented by our ancestors. Salt should be poured on raw firewood in large quantities. Salt will draw out some of the moisture, and the firewood will become usable.
• If we kindle a fire in nature and we have flammable liquids in our arsenal, for example, diesel fuel, gasoline, kerosene, then it is quite possible to pour wood chips with these compounds. If we want to use flammable liquids in the oven, then we can moisten a rag with them and put it between the logs. The characteristic smell from such liquids after kindling a fire will disappear quickly enough.
• Some experts recommend putting an empty bottle of vegetable oil in the firebox. With its help, you can quickly get the required amount of fire.

Note that firewood is always bought raw. It is best to do this in winter, stocking up for the next season, when equipment easily enters the forest. In this case, firewood will lie with you for a whole year before use. It is required to store them in a woodpile, closed from precipitation and blown by the wind.

As you can see, there are no particular difficulties with kindling raw firewood, the main thing is to approach this issue thoughtfully, to carry out high-quality preparatory work. With a little patience, you'll have a nice, intense fire that gives you warmth.