Sauna stove - device, materials, drawings, home-made manufacturing. How to build a brick oven for a bath - brick laying technology

Steaming in the bath is not only very useful, but also quite pleasant. Anyone who has tried this procedure at least once remembers it with delight and pleasure. Languor in the steam room and "awakening" in a cold pool, shower or snow - refresh, excite. No wonder after the bath you feel reborn. Its benefits are incredible - aromatherapy relieves stress, hot steam opens pores, removes toxins from the body, and ice water closes pores, constricts blood vessels and refreshes, invigorates, “turns on” defense mechanisms. The decision to build a bathhouse in the country is a prudent thing, since not everyone can visit public steam rooms with peace of mind. In addition, only outside the city you can afford to fall out in the snow when the weather is right. To fully enjoy the process, you need to pay due attention to the arrangement of the steam room. Great solution can become a brick oven for a bath.

The device and types of bath stoves

The main thing in the construction of a steam room is to correctly lay out a brick oven for a bath. It is also called a heater, since the main heat comes from the stones that it heats up. Such a stove is heated with wood, since coal and peat emit bad smell and create too high temperatures, gradually destroying the masonry. A brick sauna stove consists of a furnace, a chamber for heating stones, and an exhaust pipe. Under the grate there is a small compartment for ash, a heat exchanger is usually installed above the firebox for heating water. Below is a diagram of a brick sauna stove made by specialists.

Brick sauna stove

By the way, heaters are open and closed type. In the first case, the heating stones are placed directly above the firebox and left open. Such stoves heat up the room faster, but due to the fact that they cool down quickly, they have to be heated almost continuously while using the steam room. Therefore, open heaters are more often used for saunas, and, as a rule, with an electric stove.

In closed-type heaters, the cobblestones are protected by refractory masonry. But the device of an additional compartment increases the dimensions of the furnace itself. Yes, and stones for it will need twice as much so that they do not have time to cool quickly.

Sometimes sauna stoves stoked with coal. But then, in order to prevent soot from settling on internal walls kah, use cast iron stove- a potbelly stove, which is covered with bricks on top.

Ideal brick oven

1. Such a design must first of all comply with the rules fire safety because baths are built mainly from logs. They also make beds, floors, shelves from wood. To prevent accidental fire, a metal sheet must be placed in front of the furnace door.

If you plan to use a cast-iron boiler indoors, then you definitely need to make a brick screen for a sauna stove.

1. Since the bath consists of three rooms - a waiting room, a washing room and a steam room, a brick oven should form an optimal temperature regime in each of them. This is necessary so that you can periodically rest after hot procedures. A properly arranged stove in the bath allows you to use warm shower or bathroom a day after heating.
2. In addition to the fact that the sauna stove provides for the whole family hot water for two days (heating about 200 liters), it should create certain humidity in the steam room - at least 35-65%.
3. Steam for a bath needs light, “dry”, that is, finely dispersed, with tiny drops, otherwise it will be difficult to breathe in the room and this can even harm health. Dry steam can be obtained by heating the stones to a temperature of 300÷700 °C. And for this they need to be placed not in the open, but in a special compartment of the furnace, which can be closed so as not to overheat the air. That is, the ideal stove for a bath is a closed-type heater.

How to choose stones for a sauna stove

Stones for creating steam should be heavy and solid. It is better if they are rounded, with smooth surface and various sizes - from 50 to 150 mm in diameter. Preferred rocks: diabase, basalt, crimson quartzite, white quartz, serpentine. They not only keep the temperature well and give off heat, but also have a positive effect on health. You can also use Himalayan salt stones or cast iron cannonballs. But the latter lose the salt in useful properties and they rust quickly. Salt also helps to strengthen blood vessels, reduces pain in the joints, rejuvenates.

In total, for a closed-type sauna stove, up to 300 kg of stones will be needed.

The worst thing you can think of is granite, pebbles or sandstone. First, they do not last long high temperatures oh, secondly, when they break down, they secrete harmful substances.

In no case should you pick up stones in the yard. Sedimentary rocks have a porous structure, with a sharp change in temperature, they split, while some small fragment can fly off a couple of meters and injure someone.

Over time, the stones will become coated with liquids poured onto the heater. (herbal preparations, kvass) and soot, so every 2-3 months they will have to be cleaned. They also need to be completely changed about once every three years, since during this time they are partially destroyed and cease to give off heat with the same intensity.

Equipment and materials

A brick sauna stove should be made of quality materials: without chips, cracks, voids, irregularities. For the firebox, you need Gzhel refractory or refractory fireclay bricks. In total, for the installation of a furnace (size 102 × 153 × 231 cm) in a steam room of 10 m 2, you will need:

• 950 full-bodied red bricks, grades not lower than M-100;
• 420 refractory bricks of one size;
• 6 standard grates 300×220 mm;
• furnace door 250×280 mm;
• 1 blower door 200×250 mm;
• cobblestone chamber door - 420x380 or 420x500 (made to order);
• fireclay clay - 500 kg or 250 kg of clay and 200 kg of fireclay mortar;
• quartz sand - 500 kg;
• steel corner No. 60 - 4 pcs.;
• furnace steel sheet - full width;
• steel corners No. 60 96 cm for overlapping (covering the upper part of the furnace above the chamber with cobblestones) - 10 pcs.;
• fireclay parts for overlapping the lining Sh-95 - 630 × 230 × 90 - 6 pcs.;
• level-rule.

Particular attention should be paid to the quality of building and connecting materials. You can, of course, try to take the cheapest brick for laying the furnace, but then you will have to adjust it to the standard size (250 × 120 × 65), cut it off to prevent too wide seams.

Solution preparation

Clay mortar is used for the stove-heater. For its preparation, high-quality clay is taken, mined from a depth of at least 1.5 m and cleaned quartz sand(preferably river). Since dry clay is difficult to process, it is better to soak it for 1-2 days. If it is too oily, fireclay mortar can be added to it, but not immediately, but along with sand.

What should the clay solution look like?

The kneading of the solution begins with the preparation of the clay: first, it is kneaded with a special spatula, similar to an oar, then water is added to it and stirred with a construction mixer until the consistency of sour cream is obtained. After that, sand is gradually added to the clay in a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2 (depending on the fat content), while continuing to stir.

Masonry features

Since only one brick with mortar weighs 4 kg, then, accordingly, the weight of the entire heater is several tons. So, the foundation needs to be given special attention.

Furnace foundation - scheme

Perform this task in the following order:

• dig a recess 700 mm from ground level;
• fill the bottom with sand by 150 mm and moisten it so that it sinks more densely;
• pour a layer of gravel (can be mixed with crushed stone or broken brick) by 150 mm;
• then formwork, a reinforced frame are installed and the bottom is poured with concrete;
• after the reinforced concrete hardens, the formwork is removed, the cracks formed are covered with sand;
• the finished foundation is checked by level, if necessary, leveled with a solution, then covered with roofing material.

Important. The foundation should protrude beyond the edges of the future furnace by 50-60 mm.

Ordinal Description

The laying of a brick sauna stove takes no more than two days. The most difficult thing is to lay out the first row - it must be thoroughly aligned with an accuracy of 1 mm. Further on it, the laying of the remaining rows will be checked using a plumb line. The horizontal is also important to observe, for which you need a rule.

The project of a brick oven for a bath

The laying of the heater consists of the following steps:

• 1st row. First lay out the perimeter, starting from the corners. Bricks for them are selected with perfectly even rectangular edges. Then fill the inside of the base.
• 2nd row. Bricks are placed with an offset so that the seams of the previous row are exactly in the middle.
• 3-4 row. Leave a place under the ash pan, install a blower door to it. To do this, it is fixed with a galvanized wire, which is immersed between the bricks in the solution.
• 5th row. A corner is placed here so that in the future it will be easier to change the grate, which periodically burns out.
• 6th row. The lining laying of the inner walls of the furnace from refractory bricks begins from it, forming a furnace up to the 14th row.

Important! A gap of 20 mm is left between the lining and the furnace wall to compensate for the difference in expansion during heating. Where there will be an overlap, the distance between the walls must be increased to 50 mm.

• 8th row. Install furnace door. More than 10 holes are drilled in it for the flow of oxygen. Otherwise, it will have to be opened.
• 14th row. Corners are again installed in it, on which the grate rests under the stones. From this row, the laying of the chamber for stones begins. It should be sufficient, but not too large, so that the upper cobblestones also warm up well. Optimal Height- 50 cm is 7 rows. When the chamber is ready, it is lined with steel sheets that reflect heat.

Important! There must be at least 7 rows of brickwork between the grates, otherwise the flame will unnecessarily “lick” the cobblestones, forming soot on them.

• From 22 to 27 rows leave an opening for steam to escape. Its width is either 38 or 50 cm. This is enough for a person of average build to be able to carry out internal repair work Or change stones.

The door for the opening is usually made to order, since the right sizes practically non-existent. Attach it in the same way as the furnace.

• 28th row. Bricks are placed over the opening.
• 29th row. The lining is covered with fireclay parts. In the middle, a smoke hole is cut out in two adjacent parts (see diagram below).
• 30th row. A row of bricks is laid on the ceiling, closing the seams.
• 31st row. The structure is covered with a steel sheet, after cutting a hole in it.
• 32nd row. Lay bricks around the perimeter.
• 33rd row. Install corners for overlapping and close them brickwork leaving a smoke hole.

How to properly use a Russian bath oven

During combustion, hot gases pass through the gaps between the stones and give them their heat. When the cobblestones heat up (up to 800 ° C), you need to stop maintaining the fire and, after waiting for the firewood to burn out, clean the ash pan. After that, the room should be ventilated, not forgetting to pour water on the stones so that the soot from them at least a little comes off with the steam. At the end of these procedures, when the smell of smoke and soot is gone, you can use the bath. We hope that all of the above recommendations will help you build a brick oven in the bath. However, if you doubt that you will be able to do this without experience, it is better to contact our specialists for advice.

Video: do-it-yourself sauna oven

From time immemorial, baths have been very popular in Russia, and recently these buildings have begun to experience a rebirth associated with the boom in individual housing construction. Almost on every suburban area or adjacent to country house territory, the owners arrange a bathhouse. And many of them do not shy away from building a sauna stove with their own hands. If you correctly plan and build a stove according to our instructions, it will fill the bath with a special atmosphere of health and vigor.

Preparatory work

many owners summer cottages and suburban real estate at present, having minimal skills in construction, they independently build baths and install sauna stoves with their own hands. One has only to be patient and get the drawings of the stove for the bath. After all, by making a sauna stove on your own, it will turn out to be good to save money, because you don’t have to buy expensive materials and bring any special equipment to the bath.

As a rule, the stove in the steam room is arranged in such a way that one part of the building is responsible for heating the steam room, and the back maintains the level of warmth in the recreation area and dressing room. As for the selection of material for this building, it is quite possible to use the remains that have been preserved after the main construction. Of course, materials can be bought.

Work will progress much faster if you prepare all the tools in advance. To the right of the oven, place trowels, a bucket of mortar, a hammer and a level, to the left of the oven, place a bucket of water, an emery wheel, a trash can, a scoop, a pencil, a square, pliers and a sheet with orders.

Before laying, check the correct placement future design. To this end, lay dry the first row of masonry and the first row of the chimney. Then lower a plumb bob to the corners of the chimney from the ceiling to make sure there is enough space to accommodate the fire cut.

Sheathing of walls and partitions

If a internal partitions in the bath are made of combustible material, you should carry out the following work. The opening for the firebox and the section of the wall where this opening is made and which is located behind the body of the bath stove, sew up with asbestos cardboard and place a sheet of metal on top of it, which has a thickness of at least 4 millimeters. Minimum distance from the furnace body to partitions and walls that are not protected by asbestos and sheet metal, can be 320 millimeters, protected by sheathing - about 260 millimeters.

A stone oven in a Russian bath is in itself a rather heavy structure, so for its construction it is necessary to strengthen the base, that is, you should arrange a foundation for a sauna stove. The corner of the steam room, at which the device will be located, must be insulated and reinforced, since in winter there will be a large temperature amplitude in this place, which can lead to the formation of cracks in the building.

Foundation for the furnace

First you need to dig a pit, which has a depth of about 0.7 meters. Fill the bottom of the pit with sand 15 centimeters. Then saturate the sand with water and sprinkle on top broken brick and rubble. Next, make a formwork in the pit and create a reinforced frame. From above, fill everything with a layer of concrete so that 15 centimeters remain to the surface. The formwork must be dismantled by applying tar in several layers on the sides, fill the remaining space with coarse sand.

The last layers of the foundation are two pieces of roofing material, which are equal in area to it. They perform waterproofing material. By creating such waterproofing reinforced concrete foundation stay cold even summer time. When the foundation of the sauna stove is ready, you need to check its horizontalness. Using the mortar and bricks of the intermediate row, you can eliminate the flaws that have arisen. After that, you can start building a brick oven in the bath with your own hands.

Material selection

To make the ordering reliable and strong, the laying of the furnace must be made of high-quality bricks. The size of such material is often 250 by 120 by 65 mm. But if you choose a non-high-quality brick with these dimensions, then with its help you will not be able to lay out a square of 770x770 mm, observing the desired thickness of the seams (maximum 10 mm).

It is customary to prepare the solution after laying out the first row dry. Clay for mortar should be mined from a depth of half a meter. Take suitable capacity and soak the clay in it for several days. It is easier to use material from the ditch if it is wet, as it lends itself well to breaking into pieces in this state. And it is difficult to give dry clay processing and you often have to use a tool.

Only clean sand, without algae and impurities, is suitable for the solution, so pre-sift it and clean it of debris. Only then can sand be poured into the solution. For use, it is worth abandoning river sand, since its grains of sand are distinguished by rounded shapes. Grains of mountain sands are more suitable because they have uneven sharp edges that contribute to better grip.

When all the components of the solution are ready, knead the clay with special tool- paddles, add water to it and mix well with a perforator until the mixture looks like thick sour cream. Add sand to this mixture. To check the readiness of the solution, use a dry and clean stick, dip it into the mixture. If, after dipping, a layer of clay solution of approximately 2 millimeters remains on the stick, then the solution is suitable for use. If there is less solution left on the stick, then add clay, if more, add sand.

Masonry 1 - 7 rows

Make the first laying of bricks on the waterproofing bituminous gasket that is placed on the foundation. At the same time, wet the bricks with water. Then check the corners, which should be strictly straight, and the “ordering” - carefully measure the edges, because with any gap, smoke will enter the room.

Lay the second row in such a way that each new brick located at the junction of the lower two. Do the same for the next rows. In the third row, it is customary to install a blower door. Reinforce it with galvanized wire or strips cut from steel sheet. By the way, professionals advise using steel strips, because they are easier to mount.

In the fourth row, lay the ash well and install grates for the air duct, making recesses in each side of the bricks by a centimeter at intervals to expand the grate. Round the back wall under the grate with broken bricks.

The laying of the sixth row includes the installation of a door for the blower, and the installation of the seventh - the installation furnace door and grate. It is customary to equip stoves for a bath with your own hands with cast-iron doors. They are considered by far the most durable and refractory of all existing.

Masonry 8 - 23 rows

Make the eighth row with a partition from which the chimney will exit. In a similar way, bricks should be laid up to the fourteenth row, on which the channels should be installed. Make an opening in the front wall for a container that will contain hot water. Position it in such a way that it is in contact with the channels, and held vertically on the walls of the masonry.

Lay out the fifteenth row with halves of bricks, placing them at an angle to form the basis for the dividing wall. Make three more rows of the future bath stove like the first rows.

On the nineteenth row, install a door through which steam will subsequently be removed. Lay thin strips of metal, which then fasten the twentieth and twenty-first rows. At this stage, close the steam door frame, place hot water capacity, which further needs to be "wrapped" with brick fragments. Start installing the pipe on the twenty-third row, its length depends on the height of the bath.

flue channel

When installing a chimney for a sauna stove, the parameters of the structure should be taken into account: if the home-made brick stove for a bath turned out to be massive, then make the pipe rather big. The thickness of its walls should be at least half a brick. Make a section of the smoke passages of the same size.

The fewer elbows the chimney has, the better - the chimney should ideally be completely straight and free of kinks. The minimum length of the smoke channel is 5 meters, the length should be calculated from the level of the grate: the diameter of the chimney must fully correspond to the diameter of the exit from the sauna stove. equip chimney gate valve.

Masonry quality control

An important factor in the performance of sauna stoves is the smoothness of their inner walls. Make sure that the bricks are turned inward with even and whole edges. If there are hewn edges, chips, then this will quickly provoke the destruction of the brick. It is impossible to lubricate the internal surfaces with clay, because after drying it will clog the chimney, exfoliating at the same time.

To achieve maximum smoothness, you need to carefully lay the bricks. Wipe every five rows inner surface cloth, which is pre-moistened in a clay solution. This will ensure that scratches and small potholes on the walls of the bricks are sealed.

Drying the sauna stove

After laying the sauna stove, the structure must be dried before its direct use. There are two methods of drying: natural and forced. The first, of course, is preferable, but it takes time. Keep the finished masonry with free access to air for fifteen days. Excess moisture evaporate, the oven dries evenly, cracks do not form.

If you chose the second way, then heat the oven with paper and wood chips until heated. Requirements to be fulfilled during the first fire: good draft, which is manifested in the absence of smoke; if the wall thickness of the building is more than 1/4 of a brick, then the surface of the furnace should not have a temperature of more than 90 degrees; uniform heating of the furnace.

Spend several fireboxes in a gentle mode. Repeat the process until the bath oven is completely dry. Burning should be slow and slow. It is best to use wood logs as fuel. Lay them in batches of no more than 2 kilograms. After a short fire, wait until the stove in the sauna has cooled down, and then kindle it again.

Such actions must be carried out in the morning and in the evening for 3-4 days, after which you can increase the degree of heating of the furnace. During the drying process, all windows, latches and doors open. The duration of drying the oven in the bath depends on the time of year. In a warm season, when the air humidity is high enough, it lasts 8 days. After drying the oven, you need to carefully inspect it, cover up the cracks that have formed and rub it well. Only now the do-it-yourself stove in the bath is ready for operation!

Plastering the oven surface

After masonry, the sauna stove can be plastered. Although this procedure is not mandatory. However, plastering significantly improves the appearance of the structure and protects the room from fire. For this purpose, you can use a clay solution with the addition of gypsum or asbestos. To strengthen the plaster on the walls of the sauna stove, you can add a little salt to the solution. In addition, there are enough quality mixtures from clay and sand.

Wait until the oven is dry first. Do not forget to prepare the wall of the furnace before work: clean it from the solution and clear the seams to a depth of one centimeter. Some owners spread plaster on a constructed metal mesh, which is attached to the wall with wire and tied.

It is customary to heat the oven before plastering. The solution is applied in a double layer on the wall, previously moistened with water. The consistency of the first layer is made similar to sour cream, the second is thicker. The thickness of the layer is usually 6-8 millimeters, in some places it can increase up to 10 millimeters. After you have applied the solution, the surface should be rubbed and leveled. Whitewash should be applied to the plastered surface.

There is rustication to decorate plastered walls. Rust is called small grooves that are applied directly to the surface. On a layer of plaster that has a thickness of 10-12 millimeters, cut out rustication after sketching the future pattern. After cutting, the recesses are painted in one color, the rest in another.

Furnace painting

First eliminate the roughness on the walls of the sauna stove, for which we moisten and rub the surface with a brick. You can paint the walls with glue paint. You can also whitewash the walls. milk of lime With salt. Whitewashing can be done slaked lime, which is diluted in water, with the addition of blue.

You can purchase lime paint for painting the stove. For 2.5 kilograms of lime dough, take a bucket of water. Add glue, salt solution and 50 grams of drying oil to the liquid. Then mix thoroughly and filter. For a multi-colored pattern, minium, ultramarine, ocher and blancfix are used.

It is not recommended to use drying oil, because it burns out under the influence of high temperature, spreading a pungent odor. Silicon paint is painted metal elements stoves - ashpit and firebox doors.

Cladding with glazed tiles

The tile acts as an additional obstacle to the entry of smoke into the room if there are minor defects in the masonry, but it is used infrequently, because such a finish serves laborious process. Suitable for cladding is a heat-resistant tile that has a glazed surface.

In the photo of the sauna stove, you can see that the sole of the tile has notches to ensure better adhesion to the solution. Before laying, you need to select tiles according to shades and colors. Since with the help of one solution it will not be possible to attach the tile to the heating wall of the furnace, additional fasteners have found their use.

It is customary to introduce strips of aluminum with holes into vertical seams. Attached to these strips aluminum profile and corners that hold the tiles in place. Then the tile is laid on the mortar, starting from the bottom.

Furnace cladding tiles

Tiles are called ceramic tiles, which can be faced with walls, fireplaces and sauna stoves. Similar tiles with reverse side has a special rumpu device that looks like a mini-container. It is with the help of the rumpa that the tiles are attached to the bricks on the stove.

Depending on the front surface, there are smooth, majolica, embossed and unglazed terracotta tiles or glazed tiles. All tiles are made by hand from plastic pottery clay or in wooden form fired in a kiln at a temperature of about 1150 degrees Celsius.

Tiling today is considered one of the most hygienic, sought after and beautiful ways sauna stove finishes. It is very easy to care for a stove lined in this way. In the process of facing, there is a good overlap of the masonry seams, and this does not allow flue gases to enter the bath.

Follow unquestioningly our instructions, and you can build a sauna stove on your own. You should first prepare the drawings of the structure and find out about the price of the stove for the bath. After all are finished construction works, it is worth doing the firebox of the stove. And only after that you can start plastering, painting or lining the stove with glazed tiles and tiles.

What to be a bath - mainly depends on the furnace standing in it. According to tradition, a Russian bath should have a brick stove, which replaced the older stone stove. And many owners of baths under construction or built long ago are trying to put one in their place - after all, this is a thing that has been tested for centuries. But how to assess the scale of the effort, time and finances associated with the construction of a brick oven for a bath?

We want to help you - read and consider whether you can handle it yourself or still look for a professional, or is it easier to abandon this idea in favor of a metal stove lined with bricks, which, with skillful handling, can produce the same conditions as a brick ?

Brick sauna stoves: history

The historical moment is also important: understanding how the Russian banya develops can point to the most essential thing in it.

Here the first stoves were simply made of stone, they didn’t even put it on the mortar - a pile of stones over a fire, roughly speaking. And there was no pipe- the smoke spread throughout the hut (yes, the bathhouse was made right in the hut, there were no courtyard buildings, it also heated) and flowed through the windows and doors. Until the 15th century, such baths were the most common in Russia.

Brick sauna stove

The first innovation was still a pipe, but made wooden, it often caused a fire (the reason is simple - the tree ignites at a temperature lower than that of furnace gases at the outlet of the furnace).

Next, they invented something between a “white” and “black” oven - for this, they put something like hoods(cap, on top of which there was a chimney). But this is not yet a brick oven.

The revolution, as expected, was made by Peter I - firstly, he took out a dozen stoves from Holland together with the craftsmen, secondly, he forbade the construction of stoves in the capitals, which were heated “in a black way”. But in the end it turned out the same thing as with potatoes - a brick oven took root, it became like a native.

We hope you have noticed the main thing - Russian banya was originally heated by stoves periodical action with flow heaters, which lacked only the stone insulation of the hearth and the chimney pipe. And when the brick one came, she solved all these problems at once.

Advantages and disadvantages

Being a progress for its time, brick stoves for a bath, of course, had significant advantages, but this does not mean that they were completely devoid of shortcomings.

Among the latter - spalling of mortar. It's an inevitability that can only be cured embroidery and filling the seams with new mortar. The owner needs to constantly monitor the condition of his stove.

Skillful unhurried ignition will get rid of cracks in the chimney, which are the result of sudden temperature changes in winter.

Another concern for the owner will be monitoring the amount of soot in the chimney. But such duties cannot be avoided by the owner of an iron stove. With one “but”: there is practically no smoke circulation in iron, and if there is, then it is purely nominal. And brick ones are often made with one form or another smoke circulation. And it also needs to be cleaned. For this, special cleaning doors are provided.

However main disadvantage the majority still considers not the listed, but the period of time that passes between the start of kindling and the start of bath procedures. After all 4-5 hours is the average time needed to prepare a bath. So for those who come for a day, this may not be an option.

Wood consumption should also be taken into account. In winter, you will have to spend four dozen firewood on one fire, in summer - three.

By the way! Just in case, we remind you that a freshly built stove must first be dried - this is done by repeated fireboxes with a small amount of firewood. That is, immediately the new stove is not heated at full capacity- it will deteriorate from this, go cracks. First, moisture is expelled from the entire array.

As for virtues, then they are obvious: the comfortable atmosphere of a Russian bath is a low temperature (60 degrees) and high humidity, created by steam obtained from overheated stones of a closed heater. Brick bath stoves do the best job of maintaining the right temperature inside and outside the stove.

Types of brick ovens for a bath

Interesting topic, extensive. structures that form different types full of brick ovens for a bath. Some are easier, others are more difficult. Some provide registers for heating water, in others - space for a tank. There is bell-shaped ovens and canal, there are more familiar types Kamenok - deaf and flowing. In addition, there are different smoke circulation systems of channel furnaces - vertical and horizontal.

So, it is clear that registers and tanks are additional devices, but first we need to understand necessary elements. These include:

• blew;
• grate;
• firebox;
• heater;
• smoke circulation.

The first major division can be made by heaters. Stones in some ovens separated from the fire only by a grate, which does not interfere with their contact in any way, in others it is equipped for stones sealed box, the bottom of which separates the stones and the flame, being an intermediary in the transfer of heat.

The first stone is called flowing". This is the heiress of the black ovens. Today they are called "batch ovens". Really, how can one pour water into such a heater and not put out the fire? Impossible. Therefore, we must wait until the firewood completely burns out. That's when you can open the door and give water to get steam.

Plus flow heater is that the stones heat up faster and to a higher temperature. Minus- this has a bad effect on their lifespan in the heater.

Closed or deaf heater allows pour water directly during the heating of the furnace. Because they are independent processes. You have to pay for this convenience by the fact that the stones heat up more slowly, not as hot as in a flowing one, but still their temperature is enough to get good steam.

Another way of dividing furnaces is this: they are channel and cap. Of the latter, it gained wide popularity Kuznetsov oven. The difference between them is what exactly is the "engine" of the combustion products inside the furnace: the channel furnace works exclusively on draft. And in the hood, the products of combustion move freely, but at the same time, the newcomers push their predecessors along the passages prepared for them by the engineer.

On a note! There are a lot of varieties of both channel and bell-type furnaces. Final Choice the option suitable for your case usually depends on the stove-maker, or rather, on how much different ovens he laid down for his life.

Meaning different designs in order to increase the heat transfer of furnace gases. The more they give, the higher the efficiency of the stove. Kuznetsov has an efficiency of 94% - just an excellent indicator. This is achieved by embedding several caps.

By the way! The second cap is often used to build in additional devices - a heat exchanger or a tank for heating water.

Let's go back to the channel furnaces. The set of channels is a smoke circulation. Brick sauna stoves can also be classified according to the way the channels are located:

• vertical;
• horizontally.

The specifics of each of these options are fully understood when it comes time to cleanse.

Advice! Therefore, here (at least at first) it is worth using the services of a professional.

A little bit about tanks. Brick stoves for a wood-fired sauna with a water tank can have it both above and below the furnace structure. A fairly common option is when the tank is located behind the firebox, that is, the water heats up as quickly as possible. But one must take into account that the removed heat increases the heating time of the stones and the steam room.

Yes, and more. The location of the firebox is variable, however she will not have a remote fuel channel- the stove itself will be located so that its wall with the firebox will be in the dressing room, for example. This kills two birds with one stone: heating goes to the rooms adjacent to the steam room, the steam room itself is clean and tidy.

There is one interesting point about the types of stoves. Without going into details, people often formulate their desires as follows: “I want the simplest brick sauna stove” or “I need a small brick sauna stove.” Well, why not, let's consider them as possible varieties.

Small brick oven for a bath

In general, such a division should also be considered legitimate. Power depends on size. The minimum and at the same time cost-effective values ​​that we managed to find are 89x102 cm at the base. In other words, the stove is made up of 4 bricks in length and 3.5 in width. Concerning the height of a brick oven for a Russian bath, the recommended value is 168 cm.

A simple brick oven for a bath

But simplicity is a relative concept. In the absence of experience, any will be difficult, and if there is, any will be able to do.

A simple brick oven for a bath with a closed heater

Based on the number of details and stages, including preparatory ones, then in our opinion the simplest will be the same metal stove in brick cladding - it’s not a fact that she will need a powerful foundation, the casing is easy to build on her own, masonry errors will not be so critical, and the result will please both the quality of heat and steam. So think carefully about what you are willing to go.

How to ensure security

Standard fire safety regulations require that a pre-furnace sheet be placed in front of the firebox. not less than half a meter in length, and the distance to the nearest wall was from the furnace at least one and a half meters.

Brick oven for the Russian bath. Before the firebox there should be a pre-furnace sheet (marked with an arrow)

Brick sauna stove must not be connected to the wall. Leave a gap between them. He needs it first due to thermal expansion of the furnace- with a rigid connection, cracks may appear. And so its surface does not heat up to the ignition temperature of wood.

However, a brick stove for a bath is still a fire hazard. It's all about cracks that appear over time both in the furnace itself and in the chimney, and can cause sparks to be released. The only way to fight is prevention. The cracked seams are cleaned and sealed with a new solution.

Bath stoves made of bricks: a sequence of work

As we promised, you will be able to estimate your capabilities by getting acquainted with the stages of building a stove into a brick bath.

Foundation

A brick oven in a bath must have a foundation. There are no options: the stove in a brick bath will have to be placed on a separate foundation. Many believe that the case can be dispensed with shallow foundation, however, this is not always the case. You need to focus on what you did for the bath as a whole. After all, it all depends on bearing capacity soil. With a weight of several tons, the brick mass will exert significant pressure on the ground, and it usually sags unevenly, which causes the structure to skew and break - a wall or a stove.

Advice! Read in the relevant section of the site. There you will find not only theory, but also numerous practical advice to build a suitable foundation.

The main thing - do not forget that it is impossible to combine the foundations of the bath and the stove into a single structure. Between them it is customary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm.

Brick stove for a bath: solution

IMPORTANT! No cement in mortar kiln masonry do not put, it must be remembered.

There are two ingredients left: clay and sand. And both are different in composition or caliber of particles. The sand is sieved through 1.5 mm sieve. As for clay, there are two options: either dig it up on your own site, or buy a bag in a store. In the first case you have to dig deeper than half a meter, because it is from this mark that something that can be useful to you begins.

Rule! It is recommended to use the same type of clay for the mortar as in the brick, that is, red or fireclay. The reason is that homogeneous materials have the same thermal expansion, and this is good under conditions of strong heating - they expanded equally, contracted equally, no stresses and deformations.

For masonry, the most important clay parameter will be that oily she or skinny. These are rather conventional names. You can understand what you are dealing with only by drying a lump of clay and looking at the result. Skinny clay tends to crumble when it dries. Fatty behaves differently: visually the lump becomes smaller size and cracks appear.

Note! When mixed with sand, the fat content of clay changes, sand reduces it. That is why the exact proportion does not exist, it is the result of the selection of specific ingredients. The selection is carried out in the form of the following experiment: make several samples of mixtures of clay and sand, mark the shares and let them dry. If the dried cake crumbles, there is an excess of sand; if it cracks, there is an excess of clay. Optima is a homogeneous, not cracked or crumbled sample.

Sand before kneading is not only sieved through a fine sieve, but also washed.

By the way! Some solution recipes contain ... table salt in small quantities.

The brick itself - brands, types

When a stove is planned in a brick bath, important role plays the choice of the most basic building material. We recommend watching a video in which the stove-maker tells what can be found on sale, which is better in his opinion.

Video

On our own, we add that a good selection criterion is sound when hitting a brick. There are no defects if the sound is sonorous and metallic. Any deafness is a sign of cracks.

We have already mentioned red refractory and fireclay bricks. In addition to them, suitable for ovens clinker and alumina heat-resistant. More expensive than all fireclay. It is used only for laying out the furnace core of the furnace. The rest of the listed ones go to the laying of its walls.

Brand(number) stands for density. stove-makers use from 150 to 250. The higher the density, the higher the heat capacity, the longer you wait for the steam room to heat up.

Frost resistance material does not matter indoors, but it is worth paying attention to when you make a chimney.

uniform color — good sign. Heterogeneous speaks of uneven firing and, as a result, different strength of brick sections.

Geometry- also not the last criterion when choosing. The right one is easier to work with.

Oven in a brick bath: are there any alternatives

Finally, let's still consider what can replace a brick oven in a bath.

Sauna stone oven

We will not advise you to build the walls of the furnace from real stone, but impose iron stove slabs of some pretty stone is not a bad idea. Such a stove will cost less than a brick one, but not so much cheaper. The advantage is that it will take up less space, it will be easier to maintain it. In essence, this is an alternative to a brick casing, which, by the way, is also very good for creating a suitable stove for a Russian bath.

Sauna stone oven

Stone casings are sold for a variety of stove models, and when it comes to homemade, you can always make a casing to order.

Metal stove + brick chimney

We somehow bypassed in this article the question of how to be a chimney. It is clear that over brick oven most will not put a regular sandwich (although there are such). Such an oven is supposed brick chimney, with fluff and proper cutting of floors.

However, heavy and durable a brick chimney can also be installed on a conventional metal oven, which is also good. More precisely, connect a metal furnace to brick pipe. In other words, the chimney is a separate story. Look at the photo, what could be its implementation in the mentioned bundle:

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So, the decision is yours - there are no ideal stoves in nature, but there are those that suit us. We want you to find just one.

In contact with

The dimensions of a brick oven for a bath will depend primarily on the size of the room. You also need to take into account the number of visitors who will be in the bath. You should be aware that some stoves are used not only to heat the steam room, but also for cooking or space heating.

Drafting a sauna stove

Almost impossible to find finished project stoves for a bath, which completely suits the owner. Therefore, some changes in the order will need to be made. It will be necessary to carefully consider each of the rows of bricks; at the end, the ordering of the sauna stove should be shown to a specialist.

If even the slightest change, it is still recommended to consult. The stove in the bath should be safe, so you need to get advice from an experienced specialist.

It is necessary to correct the project, taking into account some features of the laying of the stove for the bath:

1. The firebox in the heater is in most cases done big size. To ensure an acceptable combustion process, you will need to arrange the correct air flow. Therefore, the blower and the corresponding door must also be of decent size.
2. To obtain a strong air flow into the firebox chamber, the grate should be laid along the blower channel. Find the grate required dimensions very difficult, because it may be necessary to install several gratings small sizes blew across.
3. If the heater is located above the firebox, the height of the firebox should be more than 55 cm. The structure should consist of 8-9 rows of bricks so that the stones can be heated to a temperature of approximately 800°C. If the height of the firebox is reduced, then this may not help to accelerate the heating of the structure, but to lower the temperature of the stones and the appearance of soot between them.
4. If wooden structures are not protected by fire-resistant materials, then the distance to the stove should be more than 30 cm.
5. Before laying bricks on a mixture of clay and sand, it is recommended to lay them dry. You need to start from any of the corners. Bricks must be of such dimensions that the width of the joints is less than 5 mm. Only after that, the bricks can be laid out on the masonry mixture.
6. In the process of laying each of the rows, it must be checked for horizontal and vertical. You can do this with a level. The accuracy of the angles is checked by mounted plumb lines. It is important to make adjustments even in case of minimal deviations.
7. In the process of installing the doors, they will need to be securely fastened. All doors in places where they are adjacent to bricks must be wrapped with asbestos cement cord or asbestos strip. They are fixed in place with wire or strips of steel that are fastened at the seams. To perform a reliable fastening, special recesses must be made under the wire in the bricks.
8. Attention should be paid to the place where the pipe passes from the stove through the ceiling structure or wall. The pipe must be insulated at this point. basalt wool or other materials that can withstand high temperatures.
9. For cooking masonry mixture only high-quality clay should be used. The sand should be fine-grained, it must be sifted through a sieve.

Scheme of the foundation for the stove in the bath: 1 - crushed stone sole, 2 - underground part masonry, 3 - upper cut, 4 - waterproofing layer, 5 - stove masonry.

Sauna stove project, in which the water heating tank is connected to the heater and heated by heat transfer from the chimney structure. This design It is small in size and very easy to make.

The capacity for the heater with dimensions 53x51x50 cm is made of steel 8-10 mm thick. The water tank can be made from a pipe with a diameter of 40 cm. As supporting structure for the heater, a frame will be used, which is welded from metal corners. For the water tank, you will need to make a sliding support.

The heater has a cover through which it will be possible to lay stones and supply water. In order for the stones to be heated to higher temperatures, the lid will need to be closed. If it is necessary to lower the temperature of the stones, the lid should be opened. After installation on the crate, the stove must be lined with brick, which is installed on the edge.

Another project for a sauna stove with a closed heater and a water tank, which is located on the side of the structure.

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Ordering a brick sauna stove

Stove permanent action can heat a medium-sized steam room. AT closed structure stones can be loaded only after the brick oven is completely dry.

The main advantage of this design is the ability to organize ventilation or drying of the space under the floor. To do this, you need to use an ordinary corrugated hose.

To make a brick oven, you will need to prepare the following elements:

• refractory bricks (700 pieces);
• fireclay bricks (40 pcs);
• sand (approximately 30 buckets);
• clay (about 15 buckets);
• 2 oven doors;
• 2 doors blew;
• 2 doors for cleaning;
• 2 grids;
• 2 shutters;
• metal corner 30x30 mm;
• hob;
• container for stones;
• ordering the oven for the bath.

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The sequence of steps for laying a stove for a bath

The stone cabinet can be made from of stainless steel- only this material is able to withstand temperatures of 800 ° C.

To give the furnace an ear of rigidity, it will be necessary to additionally weld stiffeners on the side bases.

The laying of the furnace begins with the zero row. In this case, it is formed ventilation duct. It is important to strictly observe the layout of bricks. During the laying process, the horizontality and verticality of all rows are checked, and the correctness of the angles must also be monitored.

The damper will need to be installed in the third row. Here begins the construction of ash pans for several furnaces. After that, you need to install doors on them. In the next row, the damper should be blocked by a transversely placed channel for cleaning soot. After that, you need to install a door on it.

The blower doors close in the fifth row. Jumpers are also mounted in it for the transition to the construction of the furnace. The thickness of steel for jumpers is 3 mm. In the next row, it will be necessary to divide the mines; for this, several grates of the grate are mounted. The shaft must be lined with fireclay bricks using a masonry mixture. Under the gratings in bricks, it will be necessary to cut a recess so that there is a gap for thermal expansion (8-10 mm on all sides). After that, independent chimney channels are formed; for this, strips of steel are laid.

In the next row, the brick is placed on a spoon. After that, the firebox doors are mounted, the chimney channels do not change. In this case, you will need to install the firebox doors. The next row is similar to the previous one. At this stage, the doors are lined, after which they are covered with strips of metal, on which the bricks will rest.

Then the doors are closed with bricks in the upper part, for this they need to be filed. Above one shaft, it will be necessary to lay the platform of the slab, above the other shaft, fireclay bricks are laid exclusively on the short sides of the firebox. After installing the stone container, the chimney channels will be located in this place.

Next, a metal box is installed, after which one of the channels of the chimney structure is laid. The next two rows are identical, after that the soot cleaning door is mounted. After that, you will need to add a few metal jumpers above the main shaft.

Then the chimney shaft must be divided into several channels, metal jumpers are fixed above the slab, which will be used as a base for bricks of other rows. The next few rows are no different. After that, the chimney door is installed. Then you need to mount jumpers on the back of the stove, which will serve as the basis for the ceiling.

In the next row, chimney channels are installed. After that, the fuel mines narrow. At this stage, the shaft in which the stone container is installed will be completely blocked. Next, you will need to block another mine. In the 27th row, a chimney is laid out.

Drawings of a brick sauna stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to produce steam and heat water.

The figure shows the construction of a brick oven, in a section along two sections.

1. Red brick masonry.
2. Laying fire-resistant (chamotte) bricks.
3. Furnace door.
4. Blower door.
5. Grate.
6. Metal tank for hot water.
7. Metal bin for bath stones.
8. Smoke damper.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant bricks. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15…20 (mm). Behind the firebox, at the level of the grate, a metal water tank is installed. A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, in which stones with a slide are placed. The presented design with an open heater quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material specification:

• red brick, 65 x120 x 250 (mm) - 181 (pcs.)
• refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) - 72 (pcs.)
• clay - 60 (kg)
• refractory clay - 35 (kg)
• sand - 32 (kg)
• smoke damper - 140 x 270 (mm)
• furnace door - 250 x 205 (mm)
• blower door - 250 x 135 (mm)
• cast iron grate - 250 x 252 (mm)
• water tank - 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), stainless steel sheet thickness 3 (mm)
• stone bin - 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet thickness 3 (mm)
• square metal grid, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15…20 (mm)

Masonry stove for a sauna heater designed by E.Ya. Kolomakin.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is displayed at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the blower door, start laying refractory bricks, while strictly observing the rules for ligation of bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. The blower door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. Grooves are cut out in refractory bricks and a grate is installed in them.
6th row. They put the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry are tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip is bent at an angle of 90°.
The width of the groove for the grate should be 5 ... 8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. Lay a metal tank for hot water and install a metal bin for stones.

Drawing of a metal bunker for stones.