Installation of profiles and molding Docke. Finishing strip for siding Installation of J-profile on gables

The very name of the element gives a clear explanation of its purpose. This profile is the final one and gives the siding a finished look. The finishing bar for siding is one of the elements without which the completion of the sheathing will not be complete. But she is not alone in a number of auxiliary parts of siding. Consider all the final elements and their purpose.

Beautiful house cladding makes you evaluate the whole picture, without drawing attention to individual siding profiles

Those who first encountered siding sheathing have a one-sided idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthis material. Many are sure that it is limited to wall facade panels, which are attached to each other with special devices. Indeed, this is the main element of the sheathing, and it is this that we see first of all when we look at a house with siding. You can ignore auxiliary or additional elements at all, considering them part of the general.

It is this statement that explains the function of the parts that are attached at the very end of the installation of one or another section of the house: they are needed to give the entire sheathing a finished look. Edges, trimmings, folds, fasteners seem to be absent. They are neither at the corners of the building, nor above, nor below. The entire siding facade looks like a neat multi-faceted box thanks to these details.

Today, a number of finishing strips are known, which are designed for different areas of work on finishing the facade with siding. There are specific products, and there are those that are used in almost every installation. These are J profile, H profile, starting profile, window strip, external and internal corners and, of course, the finish line. In the figure, each of these elements is labeled.

Siding elements that complete the installation of the sheathing

Useful recommendations for the installation of siding additional elements

To avoid confusion in the meaning and application of the final elements of siding, we will talk about each of them separately.

starting bar

The starting profile should be attributed to the final products, since it is located along the edge of one or another section of the facade. It is with him that the installation of the entire skin begins. It is a bar with a certain bend of the upper part, into which the first panel is inserted with the lower edge and snapped into place, and its upper edge is attached to the wall or crate with screws.

Importance start profile in its installation. It is attached with a level with strict observance of the horizontal. If, when attaching this part, a minimal skew occurred, then after a few rows, it will become clearly visible on the entire wall cladding. The standard length of the starting bar is 3660 mm, although the dimensions of metal siding may be different.

Starting bar and its dimensions

J - profile

Almost all additional elements have names in accordance with the letters English alphabet. It's all about their shape and the fact that siding was born in America, where they came up with such names. The G-Plank looks like a folded leaf in the form English letter J. Most often, we are dealing with the usual form of this element, which is shown in the figure. But there are two more varieties: the arched J-profile, which is used to decorate the arched structures of the facade, and the wide one, whose height reaches 91 mm.

The main area of ​​application is the overlapping of the edge parts of the panels as a finishing profile, as well as the design of corners, window and door openings.

Important! Never fasten the J-bar in place of the starting part - it is not intended for this. Strong winds can rip the cladding off.

J-profile dimensions

Here is an example of using this part to complete the sheathing under the roof of a house. The chamfer is the wider J-element.

Fastening a chamfer as a finishing strip

H - profile

This element is intended for joining siding panels if their length was not enough. It is mounted under the panels along the frame of the crate. For its functioning, another profile with a pitch of 400 mm is attached to the horizontal rail of the frame. This product is also used to separate one color of siding from another. The shades of the H-bar can be in the color with the main finish, and any color of your choice.

Type and dimensions of the H-profile

Corner elements

The name of the parts explains their purpose. Corner elements designed to decorate corners on a building.

External corner and its dimensions

The peculiarity of these products is that they must be attached freely, with a backlash of 1.5-5 mm. It is this distance between the part and the wall, as well as between the adjacent plinth panels, that is optimal. In case of temperature difference, as well as daily expansion of the material, it will not allow to deform the facade. Corners are attached, regardless of their purpose, always strictly vertically. The top edge of the plank should not touch the eaves by 6 mm. The lower end of the corner, on the contrary, must be lowered 6 mm below the starting bar. Corner pieces can be decorative, but in any case, their cost is always higher than other finishing products.

Inner corner and its dimensions

Window plank

This version of the final element is used to complete the door and window openings. It is attached only where there are slopes, otherwise the window is framed with platbands. Platbands are also the final decorative elements, but they are used only on windows. European standard. The installation of this product occurs in random order, but with thermal backlash.

Window trim and its dimensions

finish plank

The difference between this accessory and the rest is that it is always attached to the final panel. If the previous details ended up exterior finish of this or that section, then the finishing bar should be fastened one step forward. The fact is that it is designed to mask the last edge of the panel. Usually the finishing bar is installed at the very top of the wall close to the eaves. Under it, the last panel in the sheathing is cut off and inserted under the bend, snapping into place inside the finishing profile. The profile itself is attached to the wall freely, without pressure. With temperature fluctuations, the part should move freely, without creating tension in the finish. Otherwise, the last panel may burst.

Finishing bar dimensions

The same part forms the cladding of the protruding parts of the wall together with the J-profile. It can serve as a decoration.

The cost of the element varies with different sellers, but is not much higher than ordinary siding parts. You can choose the finish profile in color and texture complete with wall panels.

Installation of the finishing strip is done before attaching the last panel

Interchangeability of end profiles

Without auxiliary parts of the siding coating, it is impossible to produce high-quality facade cladding, and any specialist will advise you to calculate and buy all the finishing elements in advance along with wall cladding. But it happens that, due to forgetfulness, the profile was not purchased, and a second trip to the store did not bring results - there are no additional products for this type of siding, it takes a long time to order new ones. And it happens that the calculation of the size and cost of products upsets the homeowner. In both cases, there is a search for alternatives for each of the finished products. Almost every profile can be replaced. For example, the versatility of the J-bar allows experienced finishers to avoid buying many expensive items finishes. The photo shows how you can form an angle with it.

Interchangeability of end profiles to form an internal corner

Window structures are also successfully replaced with conventional cut-to-size panels and a finishing or J-bar. When forming a pediment, both corner details and a J-plank can be used.

You can not replace the start profile, as one of the main parts of the installation, but it is not so expensive.

Video: common mistakes when installing siding elements

In this video material, you can learn how to properly mount the final siding strips. What mistakes should not be made, and how it can threaten your facade.

Finishing plank and other finishing siding profiles help to complete the facade and protect the walls from numerous harmful effects. environment. Do not forget about the installation tips, and the facade will delight you for many years.

Siding has become one of the most popular types of house cladding today. For its fastening to each other, a j profile for siding is more often used. It is necessary to figure out why this docking material is so good, how and where it is used, and also in what places it is better not to put it.

What is j profile

If you look at such siding products, almost all of them resemble some letter of the English alphabet. There are H, F and j-profiles. All of them have a special purpose and places of application when facing a house. The ji option has become one of the main ones, since in addition to the main attachment areas - windows, doors, roof, it can be used almost everywhere. J profile is of three types:

1. Regular - measures 46mm high and 23mm heel width.
2. Arched - the dimensions are the same as the previous one, but there are notches on it. It is applied both to registration of completely round windows, and on the one hand and doors.
3. Wide - the heel remains the same as a regular one, and the height varies from 85 to 91 mm.

Areas of application j profile

The main area for fastening profiles of this type is the cladding of windows, doors and corners of the house. In order to block the end parts of the siding panels. They are also used as a finishing profile. It is necessary to install it under the sloped roof slopes, but it has one significant drawback, it does not fix the siding panels, while the j option does an excellent job with this. There are special profiles for the corners of the house, but they are much more expensive, so most craftsmen use more a budget option, replacing them with j type.

The only place you definitely shouldn't mount this species- this is the starting level, since water accumulates in the recess or heel in rainy weather, and the second reason is that this option is considered supportive, not fixing. If the wind blows, then the entire structure can be partially or completely torn off.

In order for the cladding of the house to look like a single whole, then you need to choose the color of the profile in accordance with the color of the siding itself. Manufacturers provide a wide range and good color scheme all necessary materials and fasteners.

Do-it-yourself home decoration

Professionals in the field of building cladding will get the job done much faster than a simple layman, but it's so interesting to try your hand at all areas of construction, especially if the house was built by yourself.

Siding installation begins with preparatory phase, namely cleaning the walls from overhanging elements. Everything needs to be removed drainpipes, platbands, shutters. Then the exact markup is made according to building level and with the help of a thin beam, the crate of the building is made. To wooden house they are fastened with self-tapping screws, to brick or stone using a perforator using dowels.

After that, the rest are attached - in the corners and for cashing doors and windows, you must set the j option. At the same time, it is necessary to leave a small distance to the lower and upper edges of the building, since the profiles can be cooled or heated and either shrink or expand due to temperature changes. If the latter occurs and the product rests on a hard surface, then from this it can crack and burst, and this will lead to deformation of the entire lining. It is better to fasten the profile to the wooden lining with press washers, since when using nails, a hammer can also damage the material. They should not be twisted a little so that the gap allows the product to move easily when the temperature changes.

The correct installation of j profiles for doors and windows is as follows: first, the vertical strips are attached and only after the horizontal ones. From two ends top material bends and lies on the vertical.

All preparatory work completed and only now begins the fastening of the siding panels. First, the bottom one, which will close the start profile, and then the subsequent ones. They are inserted into the products and securely snap into place, and are also fixed with press washers. One of them is pushed into the oval slots of the panel along its center, which is also not screwed in, as in the case of attaching profiles.

The j type is mounted under the roof slopes, and the starting one is mounted on the eaves. Work continues, as with the facing of the house itself. The panels can be overlapped, but it is better to use the H profile.

The use of siding of different textures

Of course, you can cover the whole house with the same material, but there is such a thing as alpha siding. This type is more durable and is used on the lower part of the building. The alpha profile will close any foundation, with the only difference being that with a tape crate it is attached to the concrete itself, and if the house is on piles, then you will have to make a hinged crate. The process of decorating, like two drops of water, is similar to the facing of the house itself. The only thing that is needed, in addition to cleaning the foundation itself, will have to do the same with the surface of the land.

For more beautiful design use different textures. If the whole house is finished with ordinary, one-color material, then the foundation can be distinguished by siding under natural stone or brick. The old, worn-out tree looks good too. It is even impossible to distinguish a real stone from a siding for this material in the photo.

When facing a house, for its greater attractiveness, you can use one product, but different colors or two, for example, a stone and a board.

Conclusion on the topic

With the right and quality installation of all components and fasteners, the cladding will last a long time, and the annual process of painting the house will be a thing of the past by about 30 years. Any kind of siding only needs to be rinsed with a water jet from a hose. A good pressure will remove the dirt that has settled over the year and give the house its original look.

Siding is one of the most popular, modern and universal material for finishing external walls buildings for various purposes. Residential buildings, industrial buildings, warehouses and much more get off with siding. However, in order to install the siding panels correctly, as well as to make the whole building look beautiful, harmonious and complete, it is necessary to purchase various components and additional elements. For example, for the design of window openings and doors (and for a number of other works), a J-profile for siding is required.

There are a lot of components that are used when installing siding panels. Each element has its own purpose, appearance and specific form. J-profile is also required part, which is used for several purposes. This may be the closing of a number of siding panels on the side, the design of door / window openings, and so on. For example, a J-profile can be reinforced along the edge of the facade of the house, and siding panels are inserted into its “heel” (special groove). In general, it is used where the siding line ends, and is needed so that the sheathing gets a finished and neat look.

On a note! This element got its name due to its shape, reminiscent of latin letter J.

J-profile can be called universal - due to the peculiarities of its structure, it can often replace other elements necessary for the installation of siding panels. This is one of its main advantages. At the same time, the profile is quite cheap.

What can J-profile be used for

Attention! It is not necessary to replace the starting element with a J-profile, on which the entire row "sits" during the cladding of the house. The fact is that due to the peculiarities of the shape, water will accumulate in such a profile, and another reason is its obvious decorative effect. At strong wind J-profile will not hold the main finishing material, which can come off.

It is also not advised to use two interconnected J-profiles instead of one H-element. The fact is that water, dirt, dust will constantly accumulate between the joints, because of which the element will look untidy and spoil the appearance of the house.

Video - Installation of siding elements

Types of J-profile

J-profile is of several types. And depending on the specific case, a certain type of component will be used.

Table. Main typesJ-profile.

How much to buy

In order not to overpay extra money and not to purchase excess material, before starting the installation of siding, you should make accurate calculations of the number of each element, including the J-profile. It is easy to calculate it: if you plan to use it only for decorating window openings, then calculate the perimeter of each window and each door, sum up all the resulting numbers and take as many meters of the profile to close all the perimeters. The number of parts is easy to calculate by dividing the final figure by the length of one profile.

Attention! It is imperative that the pieces of the profile at the same length (for example, one edge of the window) do not fit together - it will look ugly. You need solid boards.

If a soffit will be installed, then after calculating the sum of the perimeters, the sum of the lateral lengths of the soffit is added to the resulting figure.

If you plan to use the J-profile also on end parts houses and gables of the roof, then they additionally measure the lengths of both sides of the gable, as well as the height of the wall to the roof from each of the corners. At one corner of the house, instead of one special corner profile, two J-profiles are used. That is, as a result, a double number of J profiles go to the ends of the house.

J-profile is attached to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws. At the same time, for the installation of 100 m 2 of siding panels, a lot of them are consumed - about 1600 pieces. The same fasteners are used for fastening the J-profile. In this case, nails should be purchased with a hat of about 8 mm and a length of at least 40 mm, and self-tapping screws - at least 25 cm long and a hat diameter of 8 mm.

Installing a J-profile around the perimeter of a window

How is the J-profile installed around the perimeter of a window or door? Consider the work done on the example of a window.

Step 1. According to the size of the window opening, the J-profile is cut into the required segments. Each window is measured individually. For trimming the corners, in order to fit them to each other, they must make an allowance - thus, the size of each part is increased by 15 cm.

Step 2 At an angle of 45 degrees, corner joints are cut on each segment of the J-profile.

Step 3 In the upper element, "tongues" 2 cm long are made in order to protect the inside of the cladding from the negative effects of the environment.

Step 4 Mounting the J-profile on the window starts from the bottom. Install the first part along the lower border of the window, securing it with self-tapping screws.

Step 5 Then mount side segments J-profile.

Step 6 Install the upper element of the J-profile of the window opening.

Step 7"Tongues" are inserted into the side sections of the J-profile.

"Tongue" inserted into the side section of the J-profile

Attention! The fastening of each element is carried out necessarily in the center of special holes for fasteners. The correctness of fastening is checked by moving the elements along its axis.

Mounting the J-profile on the gables

Consider how this element will be mounted on a gable roof. Gable roof - this is the same gable roof that is familiar to us. In houses with such roofs, the walls often smoothly turn into gable walls. Therefore, the pediment of such a structure is often called the gable.

Usually, installing a profile in this case is not difficult, but in in general terms the process of its installation is worth describing. Special difficulty here it causes a junction of two profile parts at the place of the roof ridge - the angle here will not necessarily be equal to 45 degrees. On the contrary, it is more likely to be stupid.

In order not to make a mistake when cutting the J-profile, a joint template is prepared from two unnecessary profile cuts. One of them is applied in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof ridge, and then a second piece is placed close to the roof canopy. On the first segment of the J-profile, mark the roof slope line with a marker. The template is cut as indicated in the diagram.

Next, according to the prepared pattern, a J-profile segment is measured, which will then be applied on the left side of the roof. The template is laid at an angle of 90 degrees front side up to the segment of the J-element and make a mark, then cut off the excess completely along the drawn line.

Turning the homemade template "face" down, mark the second segment of the J-element. After trimming, it will install with right side roofs.

Attention! In the second case, a nail strip is left at the profile when trimming.

The resulting segments of the profiles are joined and fixed on the wall with self-tapping screws, the first of which is screwed into top point topmost mounting hole. Other self-tapping screws are screwed in the central part of the nail socket. The step between the fasteners is about 25-30 cm.

Here the profile is attached quite simply. To do this, under the cornice, which will be closed with a soffit, a support is nailed along the wall in the form wooden beam- it is on it that the profile will be mounted. If suddenly there is no such support initially, it must be installed additionally.

Opposite the first J-profile, a second one is attached. The resulting distance between them is measured, subtracted from it by 1.2 cm and cut out exactly this width of the soffit details, which are then inserted between two J-profiles. At the same time, the soffit is fixed in the perforated holes.

The construction of a private house implies not only its interior decoration, but also the sheathing of the outer part, that is, the facade. The most popular solution today is siding, that is, panels made of different materials with lock and hem. It has a number of valuable advantages, excellent operational characteristics and attractive appearance. Read more details.

A few words about the color of the J-profile. As a rule, the element is available in the same color variations as the siding itself, so picking up this element by shades is usually obtained without any problems. But in some cases, when finishing a house, a profile can be used differently, contrasting color. Despite the fact that designers often use this technique and consider it one of good ways decorating the building, nevertheless, experimenting with colors should be done carefully. It is important to remember that such inserts do not always look harmonious.

You also need to remember that dark elements will get very hot in the sun, so the siding and profile of such shades should not be used on sunny side even in small quantities. Due to impact sunlight they can bend and lose their appearance (we are talking about plastic parts).

Advice! In order for the profiles used to design the roof gables to heat up less, during their installation, you can make a small indent from the junction angle of the roof and wall - 2.5 cm is enough.

Sometimes profiles on the gables of the roof may not be installed at all, motivating such a decision by the fact that this allows you to save some money, and the decor elements are still not visible. But still, you should not neglect the use of the J-profile in this place: the fact is that during heavy rain moisture through the remaining gaps will penetrate between the wall of the house and the siding, as a result, the lining of the building will not be able to perform a protective function - the tree will still be excessively moistened and lose its qualities.

H-profiles are used for joining two ordinary panels. The H-profile, like the corner profile, has two nail strips. It refers to vertical elements siding, so when installing it, you must adhere to the rules for installing vertical profiles. This means that the first fastener (nails or self-tapping screws) is installed in the upper nail slots with the fastener offset to the upper edge of the hole. The H-profile will hang on this fastener. The remaining fastenings are carried out in increments of 20-40 cm along the centers of the holes.

The marking and installation of the H-profile are carried out similarly to the marking and installation of corners (Fig. 28).

The profile length is increased by overlapping. Docking structurally resembles the joining of two corner profiles - the upper profile overlaps the lower one.

The placement of the H-profile on the wall should be thought out in advance so that the vertical section of ordinary panels, visually emphasized by the H-profile, organically fits into the overall picture of the siding sheathing. Usually, H-profiles are placed on the wall symmetrically to the center line of the wall, or window and door niches. Since the installation site of the H-profile is almost always known in advance, two vertical gratings are installed under it, or in this place the direction of the vertical gratings is changed to horizontal. Changing the installation direction of the crate to horizontal is more correct constructive solution, because it allows you not to bother with the exact adjustment of the installation of vertical gratings.

Rice. 28. Installation of H-profiles: 1 - vertical crate; 2 - H-profile; 3 - horizontal crate; 4 - starting profile

H-profiles, like corner profiles, are installed on the wall before installation starting bars or simultaneously with them. It is advisable to use H-profiles on long blank walls. If you think carefully about the installation location of the profiles, you can cut ordinary siding with almost no waste; the cut piece is installed in another place. H-profiles are also installed at the junction of the house with any extension (Fig. 29), which has vertical seasonal fluctuations (drawdowns) that are different from the house. The use of H-profiles on relatively short walls belonging to the same building is most often not justified, since in these cases a lot of panels go to waste when cutting ordinary siding.

Rice. 29. An example of placing H-profiles on facades

Installation of the finishing profile and molding Docke

The finishing profile is installed on the wall directly under the roof eaves or soffit, or in the place where the siding is changed from horizontal to vertical. For convenience, the finishing profile is often installed simultaneously with the installation of ordinary siding, since it is located quite high on the wall and it makes no sense to climb stairs or build scaffolding to install this element alone. It is much easier to install it when the installation of ordinary siding comes to the location of the finishing profile.

The finishing profile is also used above (upside down) and below protruding from the wall window openings. However, in any case, whether when installing all the additional elements of the siding sheathing, or when installing ordinary siding, the finishing profile must be installed before the adjoining panel of ordinary siding.

When installing the finishing profile, long before the installation of ordinary siding, we do not know in advance where it will be cut ordinary panel siding, so you can install a finishing profile paired with a J-profile on the wall. Then, wherever ordinary siding is cut, it will engage with the first or second channel (Fig. 306 and ZOv). As an exception, it is allowed to replace the finishing profile with a J-profile, while the wooden lath leveling the height is inserted inside the J-profile. The rail must be fixed so that it does not interfere with the thermal expansion of the J-profile.

Rice. Fig. 30. Scheme of installation of the finishing profile and Docke molding: a - trimming the siding to the required height and making hooks on it; b - siding hook in the finishing profile; in - the same, in the J-profile; d - siding hook into the finishing profile, installed using a wooden lath leveling the height; e - siding hook into the Docke molding; 1 - wall cornice; 2 - trimmed siding panel with hooks; 3 - J-profile; 4 - finishing profile; 5 - molding Docke; 6 - wooden rail

In buildings whose cornices will subsequently be sheathed with vinyl soffits, it is more convenient to replace the finishing profile with a Docke molding, which alone replaces several profiles. The molding, unlike the finishing profile, is attached to the cornice, and not to the wall, so it can be moved away from the wall and fixed at any distance that provides a hook for ordinary siding. The molding can be attached both before and after the installation of the last siding panel. The unit for connecting ordinary panels with molding has two options: mounting on "hooks" is shown in fig. 30b, another solution will be described later.

In this article, we will analyze the main types of profiles for the installation of siding, which are among the main shaped products.

Therefore the review profile for lathing under the siding, and we will place the actual installation of the frame separate article.

The following types of profiles for outdoor siding are used for mounting and framing house elements:

• Start profile;
• H-profile;
• Finish profile;
• Near window profile;
• Flexible J-profile;
• J profile.

When starting the installation, the performer must take care of the availability of not only the main tool, but also additional and draft materials. The profile for fastening the siding comes in two versions - metal (zinc) and vinyl. Let's take a closer look at each of these types.

The sizes and types of profiles for siding are different for each manufacturer. Therefore, having decided on the brand of material, best solution will refer to the official website and clarify all the necessary information.

Important! Profiles for basement siding differ from profiles for vinyl siding, both in size and in the structure itself, due to the fact that plinth panels have more weight and load on the frame.

The first plank of vinyl siding is always attached to the starting profile, which is set according to vertical and horizontal markings.
The fastening of the initial profile should take place in full force, and the panels themselves should not be twisted.

The bottom profile for basement siding is made exclusively of zinc, when it is plastic for vinyl.
The color of the starting profile does not matter when mounting the facade, since the plank itself is hidden behind the first panel. Often it has the color "Plombir". The standard bar length is 3050 mm.

Interesting! Installation of metal siding, unlike plastic, starts from the top down, and not from the bottom up.

The most popular profile for finishing the facade of a private house vinyl siding. The use of the j profile for siding occurs everywhere, however, its main purpose is to connect panels in hard-to-reach places and in internal corners.

The G profile can also be used as a start and finish plank.

Reasonable use of the ji profile in facade works allows you to make the lining more accurate.

When framing windows, a special window profile is used, the dimensions of which are: 200 * 3050 mm.

Advice! The installers of the Nesmetnoye.ru portal recommend using metal profiles for siding when finishing windows. Ordering them at the last stage. By re-measuring all the values, you can order any size of the window trim with rolling.

n profile for siding

The main purpose of the h profile for siding is to connect the panels to each other. This element allows you to give an aesthetic appearance to the entire facade. Although some installers use the "butt" technology, where you can do without a connecting profile.

It is the final bar and is attached to the very top of the wall. In some cases, when soffit hemming is used with perforated siding, this plank is replaced by molding.

The edging profile can be replaced with a regular J-trim profile, but at the same time ensure additional reinforcement.

In conclusion, I would like to wish you good luck in decorating your facade, and remind you that the correct calculation of the main material and profile for vinyl siding is the key to timely installation, saving nerves and money.